... because it's the little things that count.
So to build from my last post. I did some of what I said I should do. #1 I got the car warmed up and made sure the coolant was all set. Good to go there.
In an effort to eliminate a potential vacuum leak I disconnected and plugged the vacuum line to the distributor and then set out on tuning the idle. I screwed the mixture screw in probably 1+ full turns until the idle came up. So i dropped down a jet size and did it again un
Hey all -
I finally chose a body shop for my project.
G & M in San Bruno, CA- competitive pricing and some expert references and a super clean and efficient body shop.
And today the owner gave me that dreaded first call! Not so bad! Just need to get some more patch panels from W&N!
So good news for sure. I hope things move along faster than quoted - 6 mos.
I apologize for the duplicate post if you've already seen this in the Discussion area. This is a follow-up to my previous post about electrical components.
A few days ago, I received a very nicely packaged and documented harnesses in the correct colors and tape!
My old connectors and grommets, if proprietary, were transferred over. The old harness was also returned as well.
As for the price... this was the first 6-fuse 200
Well, last I posted the world was a different place. What a difference one year makes!
Keeping this car related, there was a lot of drama at the body & paint shop. Since we weren't in a big hurry to get the work done it wasn't a big deal. But now that we're all moved into the new house and things have quieted down AND I've got another garage available to work in. I want the car back asap. Summer is coming!
The drama at the shop initially had us worried the work wouldn't get
So I am now beginning to think that I may have done too many things at once.
Here's what I did, all at once:
Remove AC, Remove EGR, reject carb to cdiesel prescription, refresh cooling system, rebuild heater box
Here's what I should have done, one at a time, not necessarily in this order
1) check timing
2) adjust/reject carb
3) remove EGR
4) Repeat steps 1+2
5) Remove AC and refresh cooling system
Not only would this have kept th
Lots been going on relative to the 2002!
The entire exhaust went out for ceracoating. The heater box and parking brake were installed.
The Lynx manifold and single DCOE 45 was swapped for a dual DCOE 40 setup. I bought a stainless steel fuel line from IE that will be swapped in. I'm still looking for a non-plastic brake booster outlet.
The pedal box and steering column started coming back together...
And the trim w
I've been really inspired by Mike Self's 2002. I really like the original hub caps and driving lights. Its a look I want to replicate with my car.
Hub caps in 1969 were painted with a matte silver paint and didn't have an independent valve stem hole. I wanted to restore this detail on my car but the original hubcaps had been lost.
I wasn't having luck finding restorable hub caps despite posting several 'want' ads and diligent eBay browsing for about 12
Let me start with the brick wall I've hit. The EGR pipe adapter in the exhaust manifold is one stubborn S.O.B. It will not budge. I am down to 3 foreseearble options:
1) More heat, I need to let the torch cook it for longer. I always get antsy when torching.
2) Cut off the head of the fitting and hope it is seized on the face, not the threads. (If it is a tapered thread this would not be a good idea)
3) Remove the exhaust manifold and replace it.
Luckily it is not holdi
Made a new hood release/hazard switch under dash panel out of 24 x 24 1/16th inch aluminum sheet I bought at Lowe's, January 30, 2021.
The original hood release hazard switch panel was ripped & distorted from the past 52 years of heat & cold use.
1. Made a painters tape template. The peeled it off the panel slowly & carefully.
2. Flattened the tape to the aluminum sheet along the grain.
3 Outlined the template with Sharpie & marked all the screws
After yesterdays blog post I got to work getting the rest of the AC system out as well as the EGR system.
I removed the AC compressor, which I'm pretty sure could run a small motorcycle, through the bottom without having to put the car up on jackstands which was nice. I was also able to pick up where my wife left off and pull the full center console out. I honestly think it looks pretty good without a console and I may leave it out in the future.
As I noted in a comment
My steering column joint was very rusty when I removed it. It looked like this
Here's what I did to restore it..
- Soak in Evaporust
- Wire wheel the parts
- Zinc plate
- Then mask the parts and paint them with Eastwood 2k Epoxy Primer and 2K Underhood Black
But I got stuck on the ground strap. Mine was pretty degraded...
The hole size is M6, and I figured I could make one myself if I found the rig
I don't have a lot of great pictures to include on this particular project but I wanted to share some things I learned through this process. Hopefully you guys might find it beneficial.
For reference, my gas tank started out like this -- Lots of overspray and undercoating. Heavy rust where the foam seal had been. Light rust internally.
For the exterior rust, I used Metal Rescue Gel to remove 70% of the rust. After a week of treatment, I pressure wash
A goal of my restoration is to keep certain model-year specific details. In 1969, the 2002s came primarily with an airplane-style Klippan seat belt and in 1970 switched a clasp-style that hooked a bar over the transmission style. I have seen one example of a 1969 clasp-style seatbelt (inferring the transition might have happened in late 1969) but its condition was unrestorable. Anyways, the clasp-style was used up to 1972, which is when the Autoflug retracting belts became more popular.
So the car is now home at my garage and I am chuffed to bits
I'm going to work rear forward and I've started fitting up the rear lights and brightwork today.
Just need some new enamel badges and to cut the plugs for the rear lights and crimp on some spade connectors to get the pre-facelift lights to work!
Then it's onto fuelling and the battery
So glad I kept the trim connectin
I have broken up my project into a few stages. Stage 1 of the project is just to kind of get it mechanically sound again. Something I can drive with an acceptable level of confidence. Luckily the previous owner supplied me with a nice cache of new parts to get started with.
I begin in the engine bay. My goals for the engine bay are pretty simple for now. The engine starts and runs pretty well. It burns oil, that much is for sure, but other than that it seems to be in decent shape. E
Well I am pleased to report Scott was right... though only just
I just couldn't resist offering up the wheels to the car after picking them up from being polished, and I was super nervous about the wheels not fitting on the rears... the front's are fine as there is so much wiggle room but the rears were tight already with the 15x7 et12 Alpina reps, so I couldn't believe the WORK wheels fitted so well!
The specs are 15x8 ET-3 with 205/50 Toyo Proxes R888R tyres...
I couldn't help myself so here's some more photos of the car together. The arches and chin spoiler are on, as are the boot and bonnet.
The colour is everything I wanted - and the spray shop have absolutely smashed it out the park, the finish is awesome.
I'm going to get some proper photos with an actual camera rather than a smart phone, when the wheels are on and some of the bits have been fitted up...
Anyway, enough rambling, here's the pics: