2002spaceodyssey

Thanks to all for the replies. I decided to vacuum my carpet and then used a Bissel Pro-Heat carpet cleaning machine which uses hot water and cleaning solution. I then used Oxi-clean to remove a couple of stains. I figured if the carpet fell apart I would buy a new one. The carpet survived OK. Nice and clean and fresh smelling. As you can see in the pictures, it is really faded on the transmission tunnel where the console doesn't cover it. I noticed '76mintgrun02's shows similar fading. There is no text left on the bottom of my carpet. I see what looks like some smeared black ink, but it is lost to the dry rot. You can also see where a heel pad used to be stitched on. I know it's probably sacrilege, but I'm wondering about a coat of spray dye to give it a uniform color?

As I'm restoring my 2002, I planned to clean and re-use my original 1974 tan carpet for the time being. I may do Esty's carpet in the future. I've had rust repaired, put down Rammat and soon Ensolite. I took my molded carpet to a local dry cleaner who cleans rugs, and was quoted a price of $35 to clean it. A couple of days later, the cleaner called and said they cannot clean it due to dry rot.....it would not survive the cleaning process. I picked my carpet up and I don't see why it can't be cleaned (although I'm not a carpet expert.) There are no tears or holes in it, except for some cuts the previous owner made to clear a roll bar. Any suggestions about how I might clean it gently? Should I use water? Foaming carpet cleaner? Advice welcomed! Pics below.

I know this question has been raised before on this site, but I can't recall a conclusive answer. My ATE master cylinder came with 2 rubber grommets installed where the hoses from the brake reservoir go in. There were also 2 washers included in the package. I've heard different opinions: 1. The washers are not needed/people never use them 2. The washers should be installed under the rubber grommets My old M/C had the washers in it, and some pictures in my manual show washers, but seem to only show single-line M/Cs. What I don't get is why ATE would put them in the package if they're not needed. I pulled the rubber grommets out of my new M/C, and there are no washers pre-installed. What's the deal? Thanks, Doug

Pete- So sorry you lost your dog. We lost our black lab a number of years ago. I agree with everything you said (emotionally childish.) Your metal working skills are awesome, and, as far as I know, self-taught. Hope you find a rescue to fill the void....

Thanks for your advice, everyone. I believe ATF it is! What a great website.

I'm rebuilding my front end, and I'm about to install new Bilstein HD strut inserts. When I took them apart, one side appeared to have oil in the strut housing, while the other side was dry (and rusty.) What should I use to keep my new inserts from rusting in the tubes? Oil? I'm thinking about using anti-seize, just not sure. Thanks.

BMW 2002 FAQ Blogs Latest Entries Unread Content Mark site read Home Blogs Rear Subframe Redux Select Featured Photo Photo Remove Photo Reposition Photo Upload Photo Rear Subframe Redux A blog by 2002spaceodyssey Follow 0 entries 0 comments 0 views 23 About this blog This is my first blog. Last May (believe it or not) I decided to drop my rear subframe and rehab everything. I didn't fully understand the scope of the project or what a rite of passage it would be. I used cyclopticgaze's series of articles as a reference. Right away I realized there were a couple of rust problems that had to be overcome. Peterman here on the FAQ helped me out by welding in new upper spring perches while Steve at Blunt hooked me up with a used pair of trailing arms with sound lower spring perches. I had the rear subframe and trailing arms media blasted and then used POR15 on them. The first project was new rear wheel bearings. For some reason my hubs were extremely tight on the stub axles. I had to take one to a machine shop because I couldn't pull it. Even after they were off, they were very difficult to get back on the axles. I bought a bearing driver set and a 4 pound hammer to get the old wheel bearings out and the new ones in. My 16 oz. craftsman claw hammer wasn't going to cut it. The bearing drivers are aluminum so you don't damage the bearings while hammering them in. The bearings are then greased. The spacers go between the two bearings in each trailing arm. New seals cover the bearings. Next up were the 4 CV joints. Like most aspects of this project, I had no previous experience with CV joints, but managed to clean them out with brake cleaner, pack new grease in, and fit them back on the repainted axles. The boot clamps I had required a special pair of pliers (called boot clamp pliers, appropriately enough) to cinch the metal bands down tight. (Cyclopticgaze's rear subframe article has a link to a great piece on redoing CV joints.) Next I had to show my stock differential some love. I cleaned it up, installed new side oil seals, and used RTV for the cover gasket per mlytle's excellent rear diff article on the FAQ. I also gave it a quick paint job (with very little prep.) New Red Line lube too. Getting there. S&T Sway Bar. Cunifer brake lines from AceAndrew. Polyurethane trailing arm bushings and rear mount bushings. New rubber subframe bushings from Blunt with polyurethane inserts. Most hardware new from Blunt although some of the original bolts, etc cleaned up really well with EvapoRust. The rear subframe mounts have metal inserts that must be cut out before you can put the new bushings in. I rented a transmission jack from Sunbelt rentals. $35 per day and I only needed one day. I would highly recommend the transmission jack rental for lifting the subframe back into place. Bilstein HD shocks. H&R Springs. I'm experimenting with an aluminum strut spacer in the rear to increase rear ride height. I may end up removing it if I don't like it . The zipties to hold the spring rubbers on is an idea from cyclopticgaze that seems to work well. (The shiny black paint is POR15 covering rust repair sections welded in.) New wheel cylinders and brake shoes. My first exposure to inserting the W-shaped spring was today. They are IN! Here are some tools I recently bought that I never felt I needed in over 40 years of working on cars. I highly recommend you find these tools if you're redoing your rear subframe. The previously-mentioned 4 pound hammer and bearing driver set, a seal puller, and the boot clamp pliers (middle bottom). The needle nose vice-grips are great for brake springs. Thanks for reading! Next up is the front end....

Hal- I just sent you $40,00 via PayPal for a copy. Will send a PM. Thanks.

So I decided to use fender washers with a bolt through them to protect the wheel bearing areas and the bushing areas during the glass blasting process. Worked great. I used the POR15 process (degrease, etch, paint). The etching process calls for rinsing off the parts with water which causes flash rust visible in the photo, but the rust is not an issue according to the POR15 folks since its designed to go on over rust. Now to put things back together.

Thanks for the responses so far. I like the rubber stopper idea.... In case I wasn't clear, I have removed the rubber bushings and the wheel bearings. The trailing arms are bare. I just wasn't sure how to protect the smooth shiny surface where the wheel bearings go.

I'm ready to have my rear subframe and trailing arms sandblasted. I think they actually use glass vs sand. The shop told me to protect the wheel bearing races with masking tape followed by 10 layers of duct tape. Does anyone have experience with this? Is there a better way? A couple of fender washers with a bolt between them? Do the TA bushing mounts need to be protected as well? Thanks.