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About Rocan

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  1. Might take you up on this... I think they are similar enough that I could make it work... So long as it has a crank. Matt (schnell vintage) has one a bit more local that I can borrow for a bit so I may go with that as my first bet and I'll be in touch if it doesn't work out. Many thanks to everyone for the response! I need to get back on the FAQ more- too busy these days with work.
  2. Hi all- I'm in need of a complete engine or at the very least a short block/bottom end for test fitment purposes. Building a custom bell-housing for a TKO600 transmission. Also will be dry-sumping the engine, so if it has a crank in there that will help me machine some toothed pulleys. any condition is fine so long as its good enough to use to pattern the transmission mounting flange. Socal/Ventura county.... willing to travel. A bit pressed for time, so let me know what you have. Cheaper is better... rust, fine. Hole in the side of the block? sure, if the price is right. Will pay more for a good core if its readily available.
  3. A stock hood with no cross bar, no trim, no insulation, is ~42lbs.
  4. DOT 4 TYP 200 has always worked well for me. In addition, the can has German writing on it, so your 2002 will understand whats going on. I have also used Valvoline on other vehicles without issue. This is a good time to replace your rubber brake hoses and do a full brake service if you haven't done so before. Rebuilding the master cylinder, slave cylinder and calipers is relatively cheap insurance that shouldn't be overlooked. It wouldn't be the first time that I've gone to bleed an old system and had a small bit of dried glycol or dirt end up coming loose and clogging a line. EDIT: Absolutely no clue what is going on with the formatting in this post.
  5. Noticed my Blog wasn't showing up until I added an entry, so I copied the description to here. After sitting for most of its life its time to give this gorgeous low mileage example a restoration worthy of the record books. I purchased this car from the second owner. He bought it back in the early 80s while living in Germany before driving it to Italy where he lived. When it came time for him to move to the US he had trouble selling the car and decided to bring it to New York with him where the car ultimately sat until it could be legally titled once it was 25 years old. By then the owner had swapped in us market side markers and an American speedometer as requested by the DMV at the time. The odomoter reads just over 30,000 miles and from my overall inspection of the vehicle I believe it to be accurate. Being a North East car that sat in a mechanics backyard for a number of years a full restoration is in order and will be completed using many connections I've formed with some of the best automotive talent in the USA. Today marks the official project start date, and the car is headed to my good friend Matt's shop, Beaver Built. The project begins with major surgery- rust repair. At least one subframe mount will need to be cut out, and many more spots including the usual suspects will be discovered and fixed as the project progresses. Following rust repair the car will be shipped to me in California where I now reside and be stripped to a bare shell for a clean start to a very lengthy project. I have some very wild engine plans but the car will retain a very mild appearance with practicality improvements integrated as cleanly as possible. Be sure to follow my Instagram for more up to date updates @rocanmotor as well as my friend Matt's shop @beaverbuilt for all the nitty gritty. I'll keep this post updated as much as possible. I apologize to all my 02 friends here for my long hiatus... Between starting my career and making a few big moves in the past three years I've had to put the 02 projects aside for a bit. I've worked on some stuff in the meantime but I've never really been happy not having an 02 in my life. Let the fun begin.
  6. Still selling gas pedal kits? Installing new floor pan next week and do not want to use the old nubs.

    1. Rocan


      No, Sorry, I haven't sold them in years. Contact Ireland Engineering; I sold them the design years back.

  7. As many of you know, the original ceramic fuses used in our car are a bit troublesome. The small contact areas mean that they are extremely sensitive to corrosion, and although the fuses are covered by a clear shield, they are still very exposed to the elements. I had enough of turning my fuses in the sockets and scrubbing at the contacts every other month. This, in addition to restoring the connections throughout the wiring harness, will greatly improve the electrical system in your car. You will notice brighter lights, more stable gauges, and for those of us running EFI, a more stable voltage in the system. Notes: This guide uses a fuse box from a 1976 USA car. Your fuse box may be slightly different, but the same process still applies. Be sure to disconnect and remove the battery before doing any electrical work in order to eliminate the possibility of component damage or personal injury. The first step is to remove the fuse box from the car. It is held in place with one sheet metal screw, and simply lifts out. Be careful to not damage any of the wires as you pull the fuse box from the cutout in the fender. You will likely only be able to pull the harness out a few inches; take note of where the connectors attach (they can be attached more than one way, but only one way will work), and be sure not to miss any of the individual connectors. If the connectors are difficult, you may pry on them GENTLY using a flat head screwdriver. Make sure they come off evenly so that they do not bind. With the box out and on your workbench, take a picture to note which way the color coded insert goes. Remove the card. Be careful; it is very delicate and tears easily. While it is out it is not a bad idea to laminate the card in order to insulate it and protect it. I don't know of anyone making replicas, but one of us should. In addition, it would be a good idea to determine which years and models had which cards; there is some variation. Remove the fuses, and take a picture of the contacts before doing the work so you can see just how big the difference is later. Begin by giving the fuse box a good cleaning with some mild soap and water, just to get out any dirt or grime that is present. Don't bother trying to clean the contacts now; you'll be wasting your time. Sneak yourself a bowl from the kitchen, and steal the vinegar out of the pantry. Any kind of vinegar will do, but a white vinegar (I used apple cider vinegar) will be a wise choice. While you are in there, grab the baking soda and salt as well. Begin by placing the fuse box in the bowl, sprinkling some salt on it, and pouring in the vinegar. Stir it up, and shake the fusebox around in the mixture for a few minutes. The acidity of the vinegar and the abrasiveness of the salt will quickly work together to remove the oxidation from the surface. Let it sit for a while in the salt-vinegar mixture while you prepare a baking soda neutralization bath for later on. Mix about a table spoon of baking soda and a cup of water. The concentration of the solution is not crucial. Once the neutralization bath is made, we can go back to the fuse box. After sitting for this long, much of the oxidation has already been removed. We can do better though. Grab a chunk of steel wool, and start scrubbing. Halfway through, the improvement is obvious. With the scrubbing done, it is time to rinse the fuse box multiple times in water (deionized is preferred, although tap water will do just fine), rinsed in the baking soda bath, and then given one final rinse using water to remove the baking soda. Thoroughly dry the part using compressed air (or set out to dry if you don't have compressed air available). Now it is almost time for re-assembly. Grab your di-electric grease. If you really don't have any available, vaseline will do, but you are really better off using the grease as it is far more durable. Get your fuses. ONLY USE OEM GERMAN FUSES. Mercedes has fuses available for a fair rate; I grabbed a bag on ebay for cheap. They are the proper, high-quality ceramic units. Not only will they operate far better than anything else, they will outlast other fuses and look correct in the fuse box. Now take your nice, new fuses and throw them in the acid (vinegar) to remove any oxidation that has collected on them while in storage. You WILL notice a difference. Remember to neutralize them afterwards! This looks better. Tighten down the prongs so that they hold the fuses VERY snug, but do NOT deform the tangs. Bend the curved section of the tang, do NOT bend the whole tang as you will weaken the base. Make sure they all look about even, and coat either end with grease. Insert the correct fuses into the correct slots, being absolutely certain that the bases are sitting properly in the holes at the bottom. When the fuses are all installed, smear some more grease across the bridge in the fuse in order to coat the exposed copper section. Reinstall the card on the back, and cover the nice, clean connectors with more di-electric grease. Go back to your car and using a flat head screwdriver (as shown) deform each connector in the socket SLIGHTLY. Too much will damage the connector and prevent the male prong from entering easily. Only do enough to give the connector a fresh surface to bite onto. Re-install everything and pop on a new cover while you are at it and enjoy your improved electrical system. For that finishing touch, find some compressible water-proof foam to replace the seal between the fuse box and the shell that has completely rotted away. This will greatly improve the life of the fuses and the performance of the electrical system. Short of converting to blade fuses, this is the best thing you can do. PRO-TIP: If you can soak the connectors in the vinegar bath (and then neutralize using the baking soda solution), even without scrubbing, you will improve the connection. This is a good way to quickly clean many connections in the car.
  8. Year:: 1976 Make:: BMW Model:: 2002 Price:: 6250 OBO Location: : Brooklyn, NY Unfortunately, I can't afford to have two 02s, so it comes time to get rid of my beloved Eleanor. I explained most of it in the craigslist ad, but if you have any questions feel free to PM me or email me. http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/5334874329.html Cheers to all
  9. this is epic! very well done!! ...Makes me want to make one myself...
  10. I was able to mount it on my lathe and machine the hole out as large as it could be (i stopped once i skimmed the head of the bolt). It still does not fit... I am only able to get the top bit to slide on.
  11. i considered mounting it the way i received it, then mounting the camber plate on top of the fender... but that can't be right at all. The way the bolts are recessed into the camber plate suggests that the strut mount should go through the camber bracket. but the hole isn't right at all. Hole saw on drill press would work... but my drill press is mounted with a motor that is too fast for larger bits... Thanks to my grandfather just using whatever motor he found. The hole needs to be 3.5" in diameter so thats out of the question unfortunately.
  12. I always had it in my head that it weighs about 2200 pounds... is it really that light?
  13. Here are some pictures. I think i may be able to grind out the holes large enough for the mount to slide through. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something completely idiotic. Tried mounting it on my lathe, but it's just too big for my 4 jaw... one of the jaws is way out there and i'm not comfortable turning it like that.
  14. A few years back I had bought some camber plates from a fellow faqer... finally got around to mounting them today, but when I went to swap in my new strut bearings I noticed an issue. Firstly, they came with the strut bearings mounted upside down... not with the rubber part going through the hole as they are supposed to be. Secondly, there is not way possible for the strut bearings to fit through the hole without using signficant force and likely destroying the strut bearing. Thoughts?

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