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About Rocan

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  1. @mojojoy ...Now that is just awful... I've been waiting to restore this 02 for a couple years now :'( I wonder if he imported it directly into California from overseas or if it was an out of state car first?
  2. Question is, how will they know its a euro car from a 7 digit vin unless if they decode it?
  3. Kind of wondering... I had the title transferred to my uncle as I was storing it at his place, so he will be "gifting" it back to me. I know the process is significantly easier if its already in my name- will this play a role in the registration? I do have a private registrar I will be using to make the process a little more... streamlined... my previous place of employment has granted me some helpful connections
  4. You're just mad because you wont be the only kid around with 4 headlights
  5. I had a feeling this was the case. I also figured they weren't taking the time to decode the 7 digit Vins. Appreciate the help everyone, stay tuned for a build thread in the coming weeks.
  6. This is what threw me.
  7. Hello all! Been quite some time. Despite being MIA, I haven't stopped loving 02s. I'll be brief: I've had a 74 Grey market euro car for a couple of years now and was gearing up to send it over to California where I currently reside. Car has been registered legally in NY for quite some time and has some federally mandated changes (ugly side markers added, mph speedo) already, done by the PO. Now, the law on the subject is a bit vague, but I want to know if I will run into any trouble trying to register it at the CA dmv. A Vin decoder will reveal its a European market car, but I highly doubly any dmv system will be able to decode the 7 digits to anything meaningful. The car is very original and I have a full restoration planned, but I wanted to hear from some other owners on the subject first. Thoughts?
  8. Doing okay here in East Hollywood. Jeez I haven't posted on the faq in ages.
  9. As many of you know, the original ceramic fuses used in our car are a bit troublesome. The small contact areas mean that they are extremely sensitive to corrosion, and although the fuses are covered by a clear shield, they are still very exposed to the elements. I had enough of turning my fuses in the sockets and scrubbing at the contacts every other month. This, in addition to restoring the connections throughout the wiring harness, will greatly improve the electrical system in your car. You will notice brighter lights, more stable gauges, and for those of us running EFI, a more stable voltage in the system. Notes: This guide uses a fuse box from a 1976 USA car. Your fuse box may be slightly different, but the same process still applies. Be sure to disconnect and remove the battery before doing any electrical work in order to eliminate the possibility of component damage or personal injury. The first step is to remove the fuse box from the car. It is held in place with one sheet metal screw, and simply lifts out. Be careful to not damage any of the wires as you pull the fuse box from the cutout in the fender. You will likely only be able to pull the harness out a few inches; take note of where the connectors attach (they can be attached more than one way, but only one way will work), and be sure not to miss any of the individual connectors. If the connectors are difficult, you may pry on them GENTLY using a flat head screwdriver. Make sure they come off evenly so that they do not bind. With the box out and on your workbench, take a picture to note which way the color coded insert goes. Remove the card. Be careful; it is very delicate and tears easily. While it is out it is not a bad idea to laminate the card in order to insulate it and protect it. I don't know of anyone making replicas, but one of us should. In addition, it would be a good idea to determine which years and models had which cards; there is some variation. Remove the fuses, and take a picture of the contacts before doing the work so you can see just how big the difference is later. Begin by giving the fuse box a good cleaning with some mild soap and water, just to get out any dirt or grime that is present. Don't bother trying to clean the contacts now; you'll be wasting your time. Sneak yourself a bowl from the kitchen, and steal the vinegar out of the pantry. Any kind of vinegar will do, but a white vinegar (I used apple cider vinegar) will be a wise choice. While you are in there, grab the baking soda and salt as well. Begin by placing the fuse box in the bowl, sprinkling some salt on it, and pouring in the vinegar. Stir it up, and shake the fusebox around in the mixture for a few minutes. The acidity of the vinegar and the abrasiveness of the salt will quickly work together to remove the oxidation from the surface. Let it sit for a while in the salt-vinegar mixture while you prepare a baking soda neutralization bath for later on. Mix about a table spoon of baking soda and a cup of water. The concentration of the solution is not crucial. Once the neutralization bath is made, we can go back to the fuse box. After sitting for this long, much of the oxidation has already been removed. We can do better though. Grab a chunk of steel wool, and start scrubbing. Halfway through, the improvement is obvious. With the scrubbing done, it is time to rinse the fuse box multiple times in water (deionized is preferred, although tap water will do just fine), rinsed in the baking soda bath, and then given one final rinse using water to remove the baking soda. Thoroughly dry the part using compressed air (or set out to dry if you don't have compressed air available). Now it is almost time for re-assembly. Grab your di-electric grease. If you really don't have any available, vaseline will do, but you are really better off using the grease as it is far more durable. Get your fuses. ONLY USE OEM GERMAN FUSES. Mercedes has fuses available for a fair rate; I grabbed a bag on ebay for cheap. They are the proper, high-quality ceramic units. Not only will they operate far better than anything else, they will outlast other fuses and look correct in the fuse box. Now take your nice, new fuses and throw them in the acid (vinegar) to remove any oxidation that has collected on them while in storage. You WILL notice a difference. Remember to neutralize them afterwards! This looks better. Tighten down the prongs so that they hold the fuses VERY snug, but do NOT deform the tangs. Bend the curved section of the tang, do NOT bend the whole tang as you will weaken the base. Make sure they all look about even, and coat either end with grease. Insert the correct fuses into the correct slots, being absolutely certain that the bases are sitting properly in the holes at the bottom. When the fuses are all installed, smear some more grease across the bridge in the fuse in order to coat the exposed copper section. Reinstall the card on the back, and cover the nice, clean connectors with more di-electric grease. Go back to your car and using a flat head screwdriver (as shown) deform each connector in the socket SLIGHTLY. Too much will damage the connector and prevent the male prong from entering easily. Only do enough to give the connector a fresh surface to bite onto. Re-install everything and pop on a new cover while you are at it and enjoy your improved electrical system. For that finishing touch, find some compressible water-proof foam to replace the seal between the fuse box and the shell that has completely rotted away. This will greatly improve the life of the fuses and the performance of the electrical system. Short of converting to blade fuses, this is the best thing you can do. PRO-TIP: If you can soak the connectors in the vinegar bath (and then neutralize using the baking soda solution), even without scrubbing, you will improve the connection. This is a good way to quickly clean many connections in the car.
  10. Rocan

    1976 BMW 2002

    Year:: 1976 Make:: BMW Model:: 2002 Price:: 6250 OBO Location: : Brooklyn, NY Unfortunately, I can't afford to have two 02s, so it comes time to get rid of my beloved Eleanor. I explained most of it in the craigslist ad, but if you have any questions feel free to PM me or email me. Cheers to all
  11. this is epic! very well done!! ...Makes me want to make one myself...
  12. I was able to mount it on my lathe and machine the hole out as large as it could be (i stopped once i skimmed the head of the bolt). It still does not fit... I am only able to get the top bit to slide on.
  13. i considered mounting it the way i received it, then mounting the camber plate on top of the fender... but that can't be right at all. The way the bolts are recessed into the camber plate suggests that the strut mount should go through the camber bracket. but the hole isn't right at all. Hole saw on drill press would work... but my drill press is mounted with a motor that is too fast for larger bits... Thanks to my grandfather just using whatever motor he found. The hole needs to be 3.5" in diameter so thats out of the question unfortunately.
  14. I always had it in my head that it weighs about 2200 pounds... is it really that light?
  15. Here are some pictures. I think i may be able to grind out the holes large enough for the mount to slide through. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something completely idiotic. Tried mounting it on my lathe, but it's just too big for my 4 jaw... one of the jaws is way out there and i'm not comfortable turning it like that.