All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Past hour
  2. Hi....I rarely post but I have been following this thread. A few years ago I had an E9 can see it under Coupeking finished projects 555csi. It looked like it had very little rust when I bought it. I spent over $35k in restoration ...almost half was cutting out all the rust we found. This btw was not my first nor my last project. The car is question has a lot....I mean a lot of visible rust and who knows was is going to found once you start working on it. I hate to see cars die....but I do not see this of being a good candidate for restoration nor to even make it drivable. Sometimes cars just need to go to heaven or used to give life to other cars. .. IMHO. Just cheap inexpensive advice to the person who ends up with this car...and no offense intended to any one who owns or will own this car. My very best...Abe
  3. Bump. Winter is coming to a close - time to think about spring projects. Entertaining offers.
  4. Part number 54 12 9 434 109. I have the sunroof and assembly. Missing the bottom trim piece that has this frame covered with headlining and foam. Please see attached photos:
  5. This adapter looks similar to what I have. Just replace the air line fitting with a regulator, and you've got a self-contained pressure bleeding system.
  6. I will probably grab plastigage on my way home today. As far as the tensioner, I have replaced it with new ones a couple of times in the last couple of years, not sure what else to do with that. I shimmed the loose chain last summer so it feels much better than it did. Maybe I should replace it. I will be around this weekend if you wanted to make a nice leisurely drive from Beavercreek to Hilliard.. Wink, Wink.
  7. Only the early 2002s had 35 amp alternators--not sure when they switched to 45 amp, but my '73 has a 45 amp alt, while my 69 is only 35. mike
  8. Yep, they're E21 (320is) seats. I have a similar pair in my basement and IIRC they have four mounting holes. Also IIRC I was able to bolt a pair of 2002 seat tracks right up to the Recaro seat frames. If not, get a pair of 320 brackets and bolt the 2002 tracks to the 320 brackets. I do remember it was an easy task. Those C rings just pull out. Grasp with a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull 'em straight up. Can't help with your other questions but lots of folks on the board can. mike PS--those fabric straps on the seat bottom--and the foam--both look like candidates for replacement...
  9. The older I get the more I like the modified cars that look stock! neat john
  10. Plastigage each journal for clearance then match your results with factory specs. But from the pictures and your description of the crank journals, they look pretty good to me. If there was enough movement to cause the sound you describe, it would show up on those soft bearing surfaces. Didja check the timing chain tensioner for proper operation? How about the oil pump and its chain? mike
  11. bump for quick sale today....
  12. Could I get tracking info PLEASE
  13. John, If you mean the bearings themselves then I cant feel any groves, but clearly there are lines on three of the four. If you mean the caps then I haven't taken them out of the caps yet. The chain isn't as loose as it was 4 months ago before I added a couple of shims. Before I could move it with my finger to touch the tube, now I cant.
  14. Sure no problem thank you.
  15. K, I gotta go to work, I'll be in touch tomorrow am my time. Al
  16. Simeon, The crank is completely smooth when running nail over all 4 journals.
  17. Today
  18. bump, for quick sale
  19. Sure, PayPal sent. Thank you
  20. How loose was the oil pump chain? Can you feel any grooves on those bearing shells? john
  21. Didn't see that...still b4 7am here. I don't know what shipping costs to Australia, so no idea what to ask. You could do 18 and I refund a difference if there is any? Ideas?
  22. This was how I fabricated my version. Camshaft Removal Tool Fabrication Supplies Standoffs; ¾ inch long by ½ inch diameter x ¼” diameter hole Low-Carbon Steel Rectangular Bar stock 1/4" Thick, 3/4" Width. I bought 3ft lengths x2; 1/8” x ¾” flat steel bar stock for the “fingers”; Hardware store 6 M6 studs that are 80mm in length; M6 nuts and washers. ***Some of the steel I got was zinc plated, grind or sand off surface to allow safe welding Steps: Start with the frame Place welding paper or something similar over the head to protect it; making holes for the studs that normally hold the valve cover. Using M6 nuts and washers, fasten down the standoffs in place on to each valve cover stud. The bar stock will be welded to these and the existing valve cover studs on the head will locate them. Cut two lengths of the ¼ inch bar stock at least 16” in length (410mm). I just split the 3 ft length I had in half. You can trim off the excess later. Lay the exhaust side bar stock in place. Looking at the head from the exhaust side, the bar stock lies along the inboard (toward center of head) side of the standoffs on the left and center studs, and buts up against the standoff on the front stud. The pic shows how they are located. The ¼” stock is the right thickness to allow the correct placement. Use some vice grips or other clamp to hold the bar stock to the stand-offs and tack weld the bar stock in place to the standoffs. Now lay the second length of bar stock along the intake side standoffs making sure that the bar stock is lined up left to right in line with the exhaust side bar stock. The bar stock lies inboard of the center and left/rear standoffs/studs and outboard of the front/right standoff-stud. Again, the pic shows how the longer length of bar stock lines up. Clamp and tack weld the bar stock to the standoffs. You should now have two parallel lengths of the bar stock tacked onto the standoffs. Mine were 5.12” (130mm) apart. You will need two lengths of the bar stock that are cut to that length and a third length that is slightly shorter to account for the thickness of the front standoff that it will butt up against. See the pic again. Cut/grind the stock to the correct lengths, bevel the ends for better penetration, and tack into place. The front most cross piece is located by the front-exhaust side standoff, the rear cross piece is placed just outside the “valley” in the head, and the center cross piece is above the center cam journal. The key is that none of the cross pieces are above or interfere with a rocker You should have a rectangular frame with three cross pieces and if you take off the nuts holding the standoffs in place, it will slide easily on and off the studs. Finish the welds off the head and confirm the fit. Grind down/cut off the excess bar stock from the frame Now make the fingers I played around with these a bit and found that the ¾” by 1/8” steel stock was readily available from my local hardware store and could be cut to convenient lengths and served well. Being in the States, inch sizes were readily available and I’m not sure what the metric equivalents would be. The dimensions, other than length have some slop. The exhaust side fingers are 1.850” in length and the intake side are 1.720” in length. This extends the exhaust side first and then allows the intake side to tuck under when the frame is in use. I cut a rectangular piece from the center line of the finger to ¾” deep to allow it to be located on the jig and then beveled the edge that would be on the inboard side of the jig. This gives it a bit more room to avoid the rocker when it is being depressed. You’ll see why when it’s in use. I made each set of fingers by rough cutting them to ~2” in length, stacking them together and cutting the rectangular slot/relief out of the stack and then grinding down the bevel from the stack. Then I ground sets of four to the right length. Other approaches would work similarly. I made a sketch and added it at the bottom the dimensions are correct, but the sketch proportions are not exact. Once the fingers are cut, I laid the jig in place and then centered the intake and exhaust finger on the eccentric for the valves it would depress starting with whichever set is highest. I used some needle-nose vice grips to clamp the finger to the frame and then pulled the frame off to tack weld the finger since you have to have the welding paper removed to position each finger. I rotated the cam to move the valves into a fully closed (up) position to locate each set of fingers. About this time, I realized that I might need more range and swapped the standard studs for a longer set (I think they were 80mm) to make sure I could locate the frame and allow the fingers to be long enough and still have room to have adjustment on the nuts on the studs. The replacement studs are temporary when using the jig. After tacking them all into place, I test fit the whole jig and then finish welded them in place. Finally, I then reamed out the holes to 5/16 inch (you could actually go a little larger) and chamfered the edges of the holes because when you are depressing the frame with nuts on the studs it needs to rock a bit from side to side in use. Hope this helps. Rob
  23. You sure shipping is $2.50? I'm in Australia. Let me know
  24. Very generous, accepted. Make it 12.50 to my paypal acct using friends and family Also, I'll need your name and address. Thanks, Al
  25. I offer $10 plus shipping.
  26. Sure make me an offer i can't refuse. Al
  27. I found 2 in my piles. Is this what you are looking for? Pics attached Al
  1. Load more activity