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  2. This probably needs a new thread, instead of hijacking esty's, but I'll leave these here while I take my test drive. The zero position shims the lever .030", with the option of almost .250". It has way more adjustability than can be made use of, but it'll be interesting to see what small changes do. I'll try it at .030" and then shim it another .030" to see what difference it makes. This may not be the ideal solution, but at least it was a simple one! Tom
  3. Well, I always petitioned Steve to maybe when rebuilding the architecture of the site to add an e21 adjacency. Why? cause they are so close in nature and many use them for parts or wish to know what parts work on 2002's. That and the cross pollination of info keeps those interested in BMW's alive! Don't do it for e30's though, yet so many discuss putting 2.5&2.7 M20's into their 2002's perhaps an M20 subtopic section which likely by default exists in the blog section. But what do I know, I just come here to harass people.
  4. I like the electronics idea. I'll start searching and let you know.
  5. Hello all I have been fighting my 38 for awhile now. I have put a rebuild kit on it, new floats (set to 35/51), ultrasonically cleaned everything, got a new choke element and body. I have gone through it carefully and as methodically as I can. I suspect the choke is causing my current issues but seek input. Symptoms - car will start easily enough and (today) with ambient temp at 70 degrees F - it idled at approx 950 for a 1:30 minutes then went up to 1500 and then after another short bit to 2002. Car reached operating temp in 4 or 5 minutes. has been running really nicely once it is warmed up. Set up Stock 74 engine 38 DGAS running an electric choke air correction jets 170/170 main jets 145/145 emulsion tubes f50 f50 Idle jets 45/45 idle set to 950 mixture screws at 1.25 and 1.5 turns out 123 distributor running a tii - ish curve, timing recently checked and reset. Valves recently adjusted to 009. New plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor.... Should I up the idle jets?
  6. You just keep thinkin', ray_. That's what you're good at. Rubber covers that say Ate on them! Tom
  7. Today
  8. Uli, Does Andy Andexer make the entire front trim piece, or does he take an un-embossed piece and simply create the embossed areas? This latter approach might be easier to accomplish. Best regards, Steve
  9. Wow!...your FIRST attempt? Very nice...you're on your way to Hollywood. John
  10. UPDATE for all you wonderfully helpful folks: I considered Toby's comment re: my having ignition problems (Toby, I love it when you talk dirty.) and tried something new - I closed my eyes, thought "What the hell. Indexing be damned.", and simply rotated the pee-pee out of the 123 distributor CW/CCW until the spitting and sputtering seemed to stop. Smooth idle (AFR ~12), great accel, nice cruise (AFR ~13), and smooth at the dreaded 2,300 rpm. No spit/sputt. Instant start up. On the road, exceedingly little spit/sputt. MUCH, MUCH better. Happier engine. Timing light (ball bearing) reading: 25 at 1,600 rpm Random 123 readings: 9 at 1,000 19 at 1,500 21 at 1,600 26 at 2,000 33 at 3,000 If I don't want to touch or index the 123 again to make it read correctly... 1. Can we assume the 25 at 1,600 point is the only real point we know? 2. Can we add 4 points to each 123 point to determine the actual advance curve for the engine? At first thought this sounds OK; however, I think each point in a curve probably has to be determined individually and not based on a single known point. 3. Is the "add 4 points" approach stupid and/or wrong? Thanks, Larry PS: See photo of new toys for the Solex Twins (just for my carburetor educational pleasure) when the timing is acceptably finalized.
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  16. *NOS *OEM *NLA *For 4th Cylinder *$80 shipped
  17. Maybe you can put rubber covers on the steel lines.
  18. Quality rubber lines last a long time and usually give some outward sign of deterioration before failure. The stainless lines usually give no outward indication before they fail. Just something to consider.
  19. *NOS *OEM *NLA *For 3rd Cylinder *$80 shipped
  20. Tarkan, Great Video !!!!!! Cheers, Carl
  21. Cleaning of the windscreen washers with a carburator cleaning kit. Those files are thin enough to pass through!. They should work better than ever!
  22. Funny that you mention that, Art! Worried about the future of these things, I’ve been checking on parts for my 235/5 and I’ve been surprised — virtually shocked — by the number of parts actually available from W&N and BMW for a transmission manufactured 50 years ago — and with a total production of perhaps 2,000 units! I have no idea whether my trans needs it, but I couldn’t resist an output shaft! Best regards, Steve
  23. I had just put a new set of rubber covered ones on when the door prize came along. The rubber ones are on display in my glass door storage cabinet.
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