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  2. Some of the flows described are reversed. The hose between the intake bottom water jacket flows from the intake to the water pump, not from the pump to the intake. The hose on the top side from the water neck to the intake below the carb on the passengers side supplies hot coolant to the intake and flows whether the heater valve is open or closed. The nozzle on the back of the pump on the drivers side flows internally to pump impeller suction and feeds in part the impeller eye. The temperature element in the water neck reads head outlet coolant only. Examine a pump internal construction/flow paths
  3. Yes, it is the hose for the coolant to heat the bottom of the intake manifold. However, the heater core is fed through the back of the head, thru the heater valve to the core, then returns to the intake manifold, and finally exits thru the top middle hose to the coolant "T" where it is measured by the temperature sensor before dumping back into the top of the radiator. Sorry if my indicator arrows suggested the flow path. John
  4. Hi all, I am happy to present you my next reproduction (after Borrani / Alpina / TISA caps and Mud flaps) - trunk bins. We all know these are NLA, so I decided to focus on reproduction these. The trunk bins are produced with very high quality method, from fiberglass. They are very very good reproducing quality and with perfect fitment. Price is with included worldwide shipping costs.
  5. Put the curved piece of metal on the head gasket does it match the radius?
  6. I had Performance Shock re-build my Alpina racing struts for my Gr 2 car. You think 'red dots' are stiff - red dot setting is 220/120, the setting on mine are 440/120. You can barely depress them by hand. If I were re-doing a set of these I would probably go with the yellow/sport setting 180/90. I had a very positive experience with PS. Turns out the first go around the strut tubes weren't checked for (unbelievably, they were bent), Maybe not really the car was raced really hard for a number of years. Unfortunately the internals were damaged. I took them back to PS, they replaced EVERYTHING inside with new Bilstein parts (yes, the old inserts have an 8mm rod which isn't used any longer, so they have to change to a 10mm rod). Fortunately they were able to straighten them - they aren't replaceable really other than a total custom fab job. They did have all the parts - or could get them from Bilstein (they are a Bilstein authorized shop). Stripped the housing down, painted them (nicely) and polished the spindles. Like new. They did everything on their nickel with the exception of the labor to straighten the housings - $300, and probably would have taken that as well if I hadn't insisted on paying for it - unheard of customer service in this day and age. I highly recommend.
  7. Category: Emblems Location: Brea, CA, USA Listing type: Auctions Expedited shipping: Yes Condition: Used Time left: 6 days 23 hours 50 minutes 9.99 USD Buy It Now View the full listing
  8. Category: 1970-Now Location: Watertown, MN, USA Listing type: Auctions Expedited shipping: No Condition: New Watchers: 14 Time left: 4 hours 46 minutes Bids: 16 60.00 USD Buy It Now View the full listing
  9. Today
  10. I guess pieces of gasket could get down to the pan as you lifted it off, maybe down the sides, or the front, but that would be quite a shot for them to get all the way down. Do they look like the missing pieces? Start with middle main cap.
  11. So close yet so far. The ship is passing off the coast due west of our house today. I could almost see it if it weren't a balmy spring day here in the NW- rain and wind! I gave a passing thought to playing pirate and going out after it but . . . Ship is headed to Vancouver, BC before going to Seattle. It was scheduled to be in Seattle today. Obviously it won't make that schedule. :-((
  12. Might as well change the pump but I find it curious that the engine temp wouldnt increase if pump wasnt working.
  13. Hi, Looking for a really good set of seat sliders (driver's/passenger's) both inner and outer rails for 1600/1602 seats. I think they look something like this...#9 (believe the inners are the same for right & left) & #11 Right/Left are each different. I hope I have that right...Thanks, Cort
  14. True dat. You'd think it'd be 100% obvious, but it's not, except in lap times. Even worse is one that loses damping in only one direction. On some tracks, you don't even see it in the lap times. I gotta say, that ^^^ tome eventually wore me down with 'yeah, sometimes' answers and generalizations. t underdamped (it's not raining at the polar moment of right now)
  15. While you have that fender off the car, suggest removing all that factory schutz from the seam that runs along the trailing edge of the fender; it's the cause of the (almost) inevitable front fender trailing edge rust that's often seen on 2002 fenders. And the pocket between the top of the parking light housing and the underside of the fender is another well-known rust spot. I did a column on how I managed (so far, after 30 or so years) to defeat the rust in those two spots. PM me and I'll send you a copy. mike
  16. Pics are always helpful. I rebuilt mine and put it back the way I found it -with the arrow pointing to the engine. Easily fixed and the arrow points to core and the valve opens and closes normally now. Pulling the water pump and found that hose from the back of the pump to the bottom of the intake. I assum that is the feed to the intake water jacket that feeds the heater core hose.. What I thought was going to be a very simple water pump R and R gets more complicated with the addition of AC on the car. It hasn't worked in I don't know how long but the AC pump mounting plate must be removed to get the water pump out. Two plate bolts also hold the water pump and at least one bolts/nuts holding the mounting plate to the block/head also does double duty as an exhaust manifold stud. Will have to get it in the air to find all the others. Water pump due to be in next week. See you on the flip side. Peace. D
  17. It's really not hard to push it on a trailer or to use a cable hand winch. Especially if driveline is taken out. I loaded one with two people with no driveline. Ive also loaded one with a driveline and it took 5 people and it was easy
  18. Don't forget to check the thrust bearing while you're doing bearing checks. That's the vertical bearing that positions the crankshaft against fore and aft movement. mike
  19. US spec '73 front bumpers are mounted entirely differently from the 72 and earlier ones. Those use carriage bolts that are inserted into keyhole-shaped slots in the frame rails, and those are located aft of the '73 mounts. They are holes that are drilled all the way through the frame rails and use (IIRC) long 10mm bolts and nuts to hole the brackets in place. This (slightly) sturdier mount was part of BMW's effort to meet the 2.5 mph bumper requirement in 1973--a precursor to the extensive bumper redesign for the 1974 5 mph requirement. There should be enough wiggle room between the bumper bracket mounting bolt holes and the bolts that hold the bumper to the brackets' outer ends to get everything leveled up. I've always mounted the bumper so that it's parallel with the bottom edge of the grille, not equidistant from the ground at both ends. Most cars sit a little bit skewed side-to-side, so a bumper that's parallel with the ground may be high or low when compared with the grille's lower edge. Also--you're gonna need two rubber spacers on the bumper ends to cover the gap between bumper and fender when using those '73 brackets. That's what the factory did. And finally, just barely tighten those end carriage bolts--only enough to keep 'em from falling out. That way when someone who parks by ear bumps into your bumper, the carriage bolt will pop out of its U-shaped socket on the bumper end, instead of deforming your fender. mike
  20. After it's all poor and stuff, hit the underside of the entire wheel well with a rubbery undercoat. (not tar, that stuff's evil) Many of them want a 'topcoat' after- if so, any rather flexible cheap paint works. The 'por' stuff is very brittle- launched rocks and gravel can chip it if you don't give it some protection. I think I used 'Rocker Schutz' or something similar... E30 racecar story- original fenders to the shell didn't have any coating, but after I smacked someone for doing something stupid, the replacement fender on that side DID have some coating, and I didn't have time to scrape it off (nose weight in an E30 is something you really try to eliminate). Well, fast- forward 5 years, and one fender's all beat to death from the gravel slinging, and the coated one looks just fine. fwiw t not down to race weight.
  21. Yeah, not hard at all to pull one bearing cap at a time (carefully and with cleanliness) and examine the cap shell. Post up pix! If the cap shell looks at all questionable on a rod bearing, the rod- side shell will certainly be worse. #3's easy to get to, and has the highest chance of giving up. hth t
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