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  2. Yes the trim survived. Didn’t hit her that hard. Her car zero damage manybe a scratch but looked old. kkmmmn
  3. Seller: carlosarielbustos1970 (100.0% positive feedback) Location: CO Condition: New Price: 1600.00 USD Shipping cost: 35.00 USD Buy It Now View the full listing
  4. Hmm. Show your MAP settings. No vacuum advance, right?
  5. Okay I've decider to weld a bung on the front of the oil pan It seems like the best alternative Solved Re the ignition curve, I just need a baseline that I can adapt to an 8.3 to1 compression using California 91 octane with up to 10% ethanol The curve will be controlled by the Haltech to be a variable retard depending on the amount of boost A pretty common or even conservative mechanical advance cure can be tuned but where and when does the boost retard kick in ?
  6. Geez, I remember having that issue. It was incorrect timing and dwell in my 008 dizzy. Sorry, I know you are running a 123 but it's oddly the same issue I've known other tii owners to have as well.
  7. Today
  8. Yes they clear! There is about 20mm of clearance from the top of the shroud I built. Of course, anyone’s mileage may vary.
  9. Mind sharing what to expect to pay for a build like that? Like the OP Im now rethinking the S14 plans.
  10. I probably should have been updating this as I did it, but will start doing that more from this point forward. The car I purchased is a 1970 BMW 2002. It's a manual non-sunroof model. At the time of purchase it was running and was fairly complete but being from Portland, OR it did show signs of rust in select areas. From what I could tell at time of purchase there was no rust in the major important areas such as the shock towers, frame rails etc. Here is how she looked when I got her home: As you can see from the photos there are some rust spots on the trunk lid, as well as passenger rear fender an lower section of the nose. All of these issue will be corrected as the build progresses. The first thing I did after taking these pics was drive it in the garage and start the tear down process. Being located in Boise, ID I called around trying to find a good media blasting company but didn't have luck finding anyone with rotisserie that could also do the under carriage, so I made the decision to that once stripped I will send it out to Metal Works in Eugene, OR for dipping. The tear down took me around 8 days to complete working over a few weekends. I could of knocked it out quicker but my wife and I have a 3 month old so even on the weekends time has been semi limited. Over those days I was able to accomplish the following: Day 1 - Removed front fenders, bumpers, and lights, removed the hood and trunk, front seats, door panels Day 2 - Removed, exterior trim, rear seats and carpet, windshield, rear window, side glass, Day 3 - Just started removing the wiring harness but didn't complete it, removed the brake booster & master cylinder, and pedal box, Day 4 - Removed the exhaust system, disconnected drive shaft, removed radiator, battery, engine hoses, steering column, remaining wiring harness, and dropped the front sub frame with motor and transmission. Day 5 - Dropped and removed rear subframe, removed all misc left over items in the engine bay, removed heater core, wiper motor assembly, and dash Day 6 - Removed gas tank and hard fuel lines, Gas tank filler neck, headliner, e-brake assembly Day 7 - Used the dry ice method to remove sound dampening from the floors Day 8 - Used the heat gun method to remove the sound dampening from the transmission tunnel (dry ice didn't want to stay on top of it so it made it hard to use that method), and went over the rest of the car removing all clips, vin tag, and anything that wasn't just the bare unibody. Here are some photos of the process: And here's how it sits as of today ready to go off for dipping: So far some of the known issues for rust repair are as follows: - Both the front drivers side and passenger side floor pans have holes in them. The passenger side is the worst with some of the rust hitting the transmission tunnel as well. I already order front floor pans from Restoration Designs to provide to the body shop. I also found a hole on the passenger side rear pan, so ordered that as well from Restoration Designs. - There is some mild rust around the edge of where the gas tank mounted -There is some mild rust around where the heater core mounted -Rust on passenger rear fender lip (not an issue as the fenders will be cut for rear flares) -Lastly there is rust spot on the inside of the passenger rear fender near the rear sub frame mount. This seems like it will be possibly one of the biggest problems to fix. I'm sure I will find quite a few more spots once the car is back from being dipped since this was an Oregon car, but fingers crossed nothing too bad.
  11. Yeahyouright. It’s just that, with my past, vice is what always pops into mind. 😈. I am still playing with both cam and internal screw. New linkage spring under the throttle body. New tuna can spring. Have been varying idle between 850 and 1000, trying to see if the car cares. It used to idle at 850 very comfortably. Car seems most comfortable idling at about 10.5-11. Stays there regardless where I set idle. If I lean out idle to higher than 11.5, car doesn’t want to start if I leave the engine turned off for an hour. But it really doesn’t like starting at all right now.
  12. With that large plenum protrusion, do the windscreen wipers work? An E30 combined heat/cool unit can just about fit, but one problem is that the fans are mounted high in the plenum and foul the '02 wiper mechanism.
  13. The BMW 02 turbo was 6.9:1, achieved with a re-worked 121 type cylinder head, thats super low compression and likely influenced the ignition timing used... No info on oil return, anywhere which is above the oil level in sump should be adequate
  14. If you decide to go ITBs instead of carbs, hit up either me or @jimk and we'll help you along with the EFI stuff. He's a Haltech guy and I'm Megasquirt, but we're both here to help whichever direction you decide to jump!
  15. Seller: dwhe30 (100.0% positive feedback) Location: US Condition: Used Price: 70.00 USD Shipping cost: Free Buy It Now View the full listing
  16. Seller: direct..parts (100.0% positive feedback) Location: US Condition: New Price: 48.00 USD Shipping cost: Free Buy It Now View the full listing
  17. Seller: dwhe30 (100.0% positive feedback) Location: US Condition: Used Price: 75.00 USD Shipping cost: Free Buy It Now View the full listing
  18. Seller: modellisimo_comm (97.9% positive feedback) Location: RU Condition: New Price: 271.00 USD Shipping cost: 31.00 USD Buy It Now View the full listing
  19. - Lighten the flywheel - Knife edge the crank - Single row timing chain and gears Basically lighten the rotating mass as much as possible.
  20. Yes! Some small progress has been made. I recently swapped in a new engine in the car and since then the AC project was put to the side I installed a hose bulkhead at the bottom of the cowling for the connections to pass through. It barely (but perfectly) fits there. Unfortunately the pipe bending tool I tried to use for making the aluminum cowling heater hoses wasn’t able to make tight enough radii out of the aluminum tubing to fit the heater valve controller- I ended up using elbows to route the hoses tight enough into the space which worked! Getting access to everything is really tough, building a ship in a bottle. I bought an AC hose crimping tool off eBay that seems to be doing the job well, this job the first time around would have been impossible ordering custom built AC hoses. I am using reduced barrier hoses in this section of the system to cut down on bulk, and standard barrier hoses in the engine bay for added durability. The only catch at the moment is the #10 suction hose in the cowling- it has a slight bend in the hose in one spot. I tried a ton of fitting configurations to make it better but the straight fittings were the best option. Old Air Products makes a straight 18” aluminum hard line that I may order, and bend up to better route this hose. Couldn’t find anyone who makes custom AC fittings that would make the right bends where I need ‘em. One other catch was getting the fittings attached on the engine bay side on the bulkhead. The bulkhead threads drop into the plate and have a long/short end. I needed to install the threads upside down so the shorter end of the bulkhead threads were on the engine side, otherwise the long ends would hit the firewall. Despite this the firewall still needed to be massaged a little to make space for the nuts on the fittings. Ultimately the process to secure everything in place was to: thread the firewall side fittings on with the threads loosely attached to the bulkhead, tighten the bulkhead threads into place, then tighten the engine side fittings, and finally install/tighten the cowling side fittings. Simply cutting a hole in the cowling here, rather than using a bulkhead, would save a lot of fiddling but I’m happy with the way it looks. I did 3D print a plate for the heater controls but I am going to make an improved version. Next steps are to (1) finish routing the AC/heater hoses, (2) get the unit wired up, (3) charge the system with fingers crossed I don’t have any leaks, and finally (4) modify/finish the center console with 3D printed HVAC ducts.
  21. You need the wiper SPEED switch? The one on the dashboard, near the cigarette lighter? I might have one.
  22. Vise-Grips 😋 How quickly does the idle oscillate? I'd play with the screw inside the tuna can. What AFR does it idle at? 12-ish? Try 1000 rpm idle. Hey did you install the linkage spring under the tuna can?
  23. I have seen a few complaints, but your statement is exaggerated. I have heard the discourse on the design and the quality of the components. Its like ikea furniture, just works but not pretty. I have three, been "testing" one more than ten years, no havoc and no other crappy breakerless setups or rebuilt distributor woes. It is easy to set up and works better than the other setups I have had in the past. I don't work for them, I use them and have never had a problem. One runs in a Land Rover, that is subject to off-road conditions but no abuse. I had problems with mine hitting the firewall too, but that was my fault and rectified by myself. Not sure knocking the product is constructive here. Andrew
  24. Mine was mix to use, 1 Gallon, $900 and change. My painter has shot this paint before, stripped to bare metal and sealed. That's part of the reason it's been in the shop for 1.5 years. I'll let you know how it turns out. Mark92131
  25. I love the K20 motor, but Im a purest when it comes to keeping with the same brand, so personally would prefer to stay BMW.
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