Ok so in light of the fact that fuel pressure is very, very important to fuel injection operating correctly. I decided to get a digital fuel pressure gauge for the car. With old gas tanks, and aftermarket parts and fuel system, you really don't know how the car is going to react. Rather than guessing what it is, or if something is going wrong, I can take fuel pressure out of the pool of questions. I also wanted to see the change in fuel pressure under different driving conditions. Worst case scenario, I replace my existing oil pressure gauge with this one, as it matches my current AEM afr gauge.
The Sniper EFI allows you to manually correct for actual fuel pressure in the software. So it can factor in pressure that may be slightly higher or lower than the desired fuel pressure of 59-60 PSI. The -6 to -6 fitting will also help because the existing -6 coming from my tank will be too short, as I realized only later that the fuel inlets will be facing forward.
If this thing does work then I will likely replace the pump with a returnless in tank unit when I get my gas tank re-done. At some point in the tank's history, the bottom was dented in, not enough to really worry about, but it still needs to be addressed.
So this morning while I was having my coffee I came up with this from Summit.
AER-FBM2183 FITTING Ready to Ship $9.99 1 $9.99 (-6 an to -6 an with a 1/8 NPT hole for fuel pressure sensor)
AVM-30-4401 FLUID PRESSURE GAUGE OIL/WATER Ready to Ship $195.79 1 $195.79 (fuel pressure gauge, although it says oil/water)
SUM-220687 -06 90 HOSE END SWIVEL Ready to Ship $12.59 1 $12.59 (swivel fitting for fuel)
SUM-220688 6AN 120 DEGREE HOSE END Ready to Ship $15.29 1 $15.29 (swivel fitting for fuel)
SUM-220690 6AN HOSE END STRAIGHT Ready to Ship $4.49 1 $4.49 (swivel fitting for fuel)
SUM-220691 6AN 150 DEGREE HOSE END Ready to Ship $15.29 1 $15.29 (swivel fitting for fuel)
Express shipping to Canada hurt a little ($40 vs 18) and brokerage was higher by about $15,
Progress on the 02s has been slow. I’ve been placing orders here and there for little things mostly-hardware, rebuild kits, exhaust, seals, etc. The type of stuff that you forget about until it’s 10:30 on a Sunday and you realize you don’t have enough clips to install the trim.
The ‘73 now has both right side floor pans replaced. I’ve also replaced the last 18” or so of the frame rail on the right side. There is still some welding to do on those pans but I want the car in the air for that so that I can massage alignment from within the tunnel. Things are plenty strong enough to prevent movement now as is.
I welded an outer wheel housing back on this car and put the quarter panel back on as well after removing the arch. I’m still pondering how to connect the quarter and housing. The easy route would be to fold things over and weld it together. Not being one to take the easy way out typically I’m thinking about getting some 1/8” or 3/16” rod and bending it to create a rounded transition between the housing and outer skin. I believe it will also help to hold the shape of the outer skin as I massage to housing to fit.
I removed the tail panel and the remains of the trunk floor earlier this year. That was a quick project since there were only a handful of inches of seams at the back panel still attached and leading edge cut quite easily. The panel forward of the diff support will be replaced as well. The panel collected water for too long and thinned considerably. It has several large holes as well. I salvaged the replacement from the ‘69 shell.
After re-attaching the right QP I attempted to start the car so that I could flip it around in the tent only to realize the clutch was stuck. 3rd gear, one foot on the clutch, one on the brake I hit the key. The rear end climbed and then *POP*. The car settled back down and was running in gear with no forward motion. I let my foot out of the clutch and nothing... no clunking, no dragging noises, no movement. 😳 I pondered what might have happened while I pushed the car around by hand in the yard. Looking under the car I could see that the guibo was still intact and the driveshaft spun when the car was pushed. Peculiar addition, the clutch pedal was now rock hard; the only movement being the play in the bushings. For the next few days I contemplated the possible failures- sheared input shaft, broken clutch disc, broken pressure plate, internal shaft failure in the trans. When I finally jacked the car up to repair the failure I was relieved to see that the clutch slave was fully stroked. A gentle tap with a hammer rewarded me with a fully operational clutch and a car that once again moves under its own power. This car hasn’t been moved in several years and the clutch slave does not currently have a boot on the piston end so there ya have it.
Feeling a little flush with cash the other day I sprang for a rebuild kit for 2bbl Solex. The car doesn’t wanna idle and I don’t have a spare Weber laying around for it so for $26 I’m gonna make this one better for now. The carb body is currently soaking in a bucket of cleaner awaiting a rebuild. Some of the passages were almost 100% plugged with varnish.
My current goals beyond rebuilding this carb is to get the outer wheelhouse back on the ‘68 along with the new right rocker and tack in the trunk/back seat divider panel, tack on the quarter that I will repair for that car, install the complete rear suspension from the ‘69, move that car to a storage space off site and bring the ‘73 into the garage for major work over the winter. All I need is time now.
So excuse the shitty pictures. I'd do better, but I'm spread thin between school, work and a new business I'm starting. So shitty photos off of my phone will just have to do. But! I did install the back seat. In the photo below you'll notice it's not quite sitting right. I've since fixed that. Regardless, I'm really pleased with how the black turned out. The green and brown eyesore is gone, for considerably less money than it would have cost to reupholster. Now I just need a black carpet and black door cards.
I also installed the driver's side bucket seat. Further adjustment is needed, as I'm still a little close to the pedals. I have rather long legs, so I'm cramped in. I have the seat set as far back as these fixed rails will allow with the stock mounting location, which means I'll be needing to drill a few holes and rethink the fastener situation. If I can move the seat back about 2 inches, I think it'll be perfect.
You have to admit the interior is starting to look 100x better then it did when I purchased the car. I'm hoping the other bucket seat will arrive in the next week or so, I'm still working out shipping detailed with CMC, but once that gets in I'll order the brackets and get that mounted as well. This does make the back seat functionally useless, but I'm alright with that. I'm already too low for more than one passenger, and rear leg room is non-existent anyways.
I am rather rapidly heading down the "race car" route. Something I've been vocal against, but starting to come back around on. I'm looking at roll bar options right now, and I'd very much like to do a track day with the car when everything is sorted. Up until installing this bucket seat, I've kind of struggled with how the car handled. Even with the Recaros I would kind of flop around, in this bucket I could feel the chassis and how it was working considerably better. The biggest weakness right now is the steering, I can feel the steering box has a lot of slop in it, and the bushings are completely spent. I think tightening these up will go a long way to making it a great canyon rat. That coupled with the big brakes I have on the shelf should make for an enjoyable weekend toy.
I guess if I ever get sick of the car being too race car, I can always go back to the Recaro seats and soften the car up a little bit. Nothing is decided, but it's a line of thought I'm having a hard time shaking. Plus it gives me an excuse to buy a classic Mini for a comfortable street car, something I've always wanted anyway. We'll see, hopefully more updates soon!
Over the last two weekends I've installed the rebuilt M10 with 40k miles I pulled out of a 320is and I installed the getrag 240 5 speed trans from a 84 318i. The engine went in easy but I cant say the same for the getrag 240. I wrestled with that thing for 2+ hours trying to squeeze that thing into the trans tunnel. I had to take the hammer to the trans tunnel a few time to make it fit. I bought the rear trans mount for the 84 318i and after mocking it up, it looks like I'll only have to drill some holes in the floor board and add some shims to make it work. I'm stoked cause I was worried about having to fabricate a rear mount with the correct angles for the bushings. Next step is to get the driveshaft shortened. I hit the salvage yard on Saturday and was able to find a 3 bolt front half of a driveshaft that will be cut and welded to my 2002 driveshaft. Also, I got my seats back from the upholstery shop. Alonzo did an amazing job. I wasn't so sure about taking my seats to him at first cause the dude works on this property filled with toilets, old car parts and a bunch of other trash. But we became fast friends and even though he didn't speak english and my spanish is terrible, I got a good vibe from him and I could tell by looking at his work bench that he's been doing this work for longer than I've probably been alive. I'm super happy with how they came out and stoked to support a hard working dude that definitely appreciates the business and cares far more about his work than google reviews.
So I got my intake back... in one day. I think he is getting a little excited to see this thing going. Some more picks. I thought that there may be an interference problem with the coolant pipe that comes out by the carb, but it is on an angle and will not interfere with the TPS sensor on the EFI.
I realized after the mock-up that the fuel inlets will have to be around the front since the throttle lever needs to hang over the side to work. This is something I needed to commit to right up front because the flange and adapter are offset. I tried flipping it around and nothing lined up. Perhaps I could mod the throttle lever to work on the other side, but I feel that the lever rotation towards the firewall will make it easier to put together a linkage. Also If it ends up not working, It will be saleable.
I had to order a new water diverter, I could feel the pitting on the inside of the pipes, so it is just a matter of time before it pushes through all the way, and I have a leak.
I also ordered a linkage kit for a Link manifold. I thought it was the most flexible option I have at this point, although I am not willing to let go my beautiful heim jointed linkage just yet. (silky smooth)
I had the port on the intake drilled and tapped for the 3/8 npt coolant sensor, It should be ok, but I will double check. I could be wrong, but it looks like a standard GM unit. I had the other vacuum ports for the emission hoses welded shut as well.
I had the intake ports matched to the head. I had read that had helped. Also, I ordered a 1 1/4" flex-hone, to help smooth out the casting in the intake. I am not taking it down all the way to a polish, but just smooth it out a bit.
Now back to the stupid heater box. So dam fiddly, I will be glad once it is in. Every time I think I have all the cracks fixed, I find more. It should be in by Monday... make that Thursday or whenever... The weather is gorgeous here in Vancouver, and I will be spending as much time as I can with my family.
Removed the cluster, removed the trim rings, masked and painted the trim rings with chrome spray paint.
Cleaned the glass, reinstalled everything and reinstalled the cluster.
I give credit to Swiss Tii for the inspiration for the project.
So I quickly realized that the adapter for the Holley to Weber is for an approximately 36MM bore, the Sniper is 40mm bore, no biggie, I have to get the intake off and hogged out, so I will get my guy to make it bigger at the same time. I am pulling off the intake tonight (hopefully) to get my guy to work on it tomorrow.
The height seems ok, the EFI with the adapter is about 10CM to the air cleaner mounting surface, I measured the Weber to be a bit over 11CM, If I were to include the adapter I use, it would add about another CM on top of that because my adapter sits proud of the lip of my 32/36. So air cleaner clearance seems ok.
So it is kinda like putting a 40x40 DGV Weber carb... The question will still remain if it will flow properly at idle. Because the Sniper is synchronous and the 32/36 is progressive, It will be that more fun to tune.
Here are some measurements of the height of the sniper vs a regular 32/36. Enjoy, I will post some pre and post pics of the intake.
In an attempt to expedite the changeover to the Sniper, I want to pre-drill a fitting. Can anybody add to what is mentioned in the forums?. I am thinking in the housing going into the head...... Is everybody ok with that? or do we have hose people as well?
I would love to know.
There are at least 5 pictures of Vern in the October 2018 Roundel Pittsburgh Oktoberfest coverage. The most prominent ones are for the Concours. As some of you will recall, Vern took 2nd in the Classic Super Clean Class.
Finally got around to starting the wiring of the 2402TI. The speedway kit I picked up was nice and fairly straight forward. Spent a few days trying to really plan out where everything was going. Then I learned that the kit really works well with a GM column connector. That got me to thinking about if i could get rid of a U joint with a longer column. Sure enough I can! so now staring down the prospect of redoing my steering system I thought it wise to pause for a bit and make sure there is nothing else I would change at the same time.
The drivetrain is the part that I have questioned more in the past year than just about anything else. I have to put in rack and pinion and build a massive tunnel to fit the ecotec. With that said I now have a giant engine bay with a 2.4l 4 cylinder. The other options out there may be too good to pass up.
Option 1: stay the course, lighter but also lower horsepower
Option 2: pick up a junk yard LS and a th350. Not the most engaging to drive but the most HP for the least amount of money. This would simplify my coolant plumbing and driveshaft.
Option 3: 5.0L/T5 this is the cheapest option due to having friends with left over parts. Probably as heavy as the LS and only ~40hp more than the current ecotec. This would at least be a manual trans.
I am a big data entrepreneur in real life, so this has got me thinking about the data coming from the engine and how its interpretation results in the adjustment to the air valve and the injectors.
I have read the manual. The first time I was was completely sober, along with the second and third time... the fourth time... not so much. It seemed to sink in the fourth time around a lot more. The way that this system allegedly manufactures the digital version of real-life parts of a carburated system is fascinating, like a choke, accelerator pump, the prime you get when you set the choke. It is also interesting how it accommodates physical anomalies in the engine as it warms.
I haven't quite got my head around the learning algorithm, and how it can be dialed in, overlays etc... I think I may need to dust off a big Bordeau that I have been holding onto for the past 15 years and load up on a nice rib steak from my favourite meat shop (no offence to the vegans of which there are a lot in Vancouver) and settle in.
I am about to re-do my heater box, and since the cooling system is open, I think I will drill and tap the housing. The cooling sensor that comes with it is 3/8 NPT, with adapters to 1/2 inch if needed.
A long time ago I got the 11mm manifold bots from Ireland engineering, which I will use when I reinstall the manifold and the coolant diverter.
Pictures to come, but much more likely a video, I have felt that the GoPro in my house has been underutilized.
Sniper 2BBL EFI Manual.pdf
I realize that it has been quiet lately. Progress has been pretty slow on the car, mainly because I've been swamped with school. I have also been waiting for my fabricator to clear some space in his garage to tackle the projects I have coming up. However parts have been steadily trickling in, and I'm hoping to get cracking in the next few weeks. As always, maybe the next post will be more eventful, but here's what I have for you now.
I purchased a right rear shock tower from Restoration Design. After some probing, it looks like this is the only full piece that needs to be replaced in the rear. The rest can be safely patched. At least that's the hope, as with any rust there is always more than you think. So I may be ordering even more sheet metal here shortly if things go wrong. But regardless, this is in and will be grafted into the car soon.
I also noted that I have been having cooling issues. Well, this should solve that. I purchased a Scirocco style radiator from JEGS that has a considerably thicker core. It has about the same dimensions as the current radiator otherwise, but there will be some minor duct work, a considerably larger/more powerful fan, and obviously the added... girth. I also picked up a Mishimoto oil cooler, as well as the stock E30 325is oil filter housing/cooler lines. This is more of an insurance policy, but I figure this car needs all the help it can get. After speaking to @tonytony002, he gave me some valuable advice on how to properly cool the M20 down. I'll be running a 13 inch pusher fan, a lower temperature thermostat, and the fan will be triggered at the thermostat housing. That should do the trick.
This will all be tied into a new tube front end. 2002s require bracing up front when they are cut for M20 swaps. This was never done, so the car lacks some structural rigidity. The new tube front end will add the rigidity back in, as well as give cleaner mounting points for the radiator and oil cooler.
Finally, some damage report. I had an RS hex cap fly off on the freeway the other day. Somehow, beyond all human understanding, the waffle stuck on the wheel for 30 miles. I also had the passenger side knee trim fall off. I still have the trim, but it looks like the clips are just old and failed. So I have to order some new clips to get that on now. Neither of these are huge deals, but it's a bummer to have the car suddenly look so shabby. The above is the last known photo of that hex cap, before it peaced out.
There has been some interior progress as well. Keep in mind, things get worse before they get better... I think. So far mostly everyone has not liked this choice at all. I'm certainly not expecting anyone here to like this decision either, but bare with me. I do have my reasons. I dyed my rear seats over the weekend. You may remember that they were this very odd green/brown combination. Let me start by stressing, this was not factory. Someone redid these seats at some point during the car's lifetime. They also never intended to rock the green vinyl, I'm not 100% sure what the story was but there are obvious signs that they used the green vinyl to reupholster the seat and then dyed it a matching saddle brown. Areas that did not get direct sunlight still had some of the brown dye showing.
Highlighted there you can see traces of brown dye, faded out over the years.
A lot of people moaned that this was "very 70s" and I should have kept it. It is also "very ugly".
In order to dye the rear bench, I did some research and discovered SEM marine vinyl dye would do the trick. I have found other 2002 owners who have done this with great results, and I figured if it's good enough to restore seats on a boat, it's good enough for a non-functional rear seat in a 2002. This is not spray paint, but specific product for this purpose. I do have to stress that the back seat in my 2002 will never have passengers. It's purely for aesthetics at this point, I have the seat belts tucked under the seat and any weight over the rear like that would likely cause the car to rub. There is also a chance the back seat will be removed entirely in the future, but more on that later.
Bad picture, but the vinyl prep was key in all this as well. Cleaned and softened the vinyl for dye.
I love the results. It actually needs another coat, but I ran out of dye before I could finish. It should be in today, so I'll be giving the whole rear bench another coat and that will finish off any light spots. The black doesn't rub off when you touch it, and shows very nicely.
You can see some light spots that need touch up here.
I hate preemptively defending my decision on this, but I have gotten a lot of shit for doing this. For some reason, a lot of people loved the green and brown. I really felt like I was sitting in a circus tent, and it was by far my least favorite part of the interior. Sahara Beige has grown on me quite a bit, but no amount of time would help me come to terms with the baby poop green rear seat. The next big step will be to replace the red carpet (which is actually much grosser then it looks) with a black carpet. I like black interiors, and that will drastically help my level of happiness when driving the car. Sounds stupid, but it is what it is. The black and red coco mats can stay though.
This leads me into part two of where I will likely catch more shit. Bare with me, I promise I'm not going crazy, there is a method to my madness. I purchased another driver's seat. I love the period correct look and feel of the Recaros I have, and I intend to have them reupholstered. Both of them. However I also need to refoam, and repair the drivers seat. In the meantime, I wanted to try a more canyon carving friendly approach.
I purchased a Car Make Corn's bucket seat, something normally intended for a Miata, and I intend to put it in the driver's position. I chose this particular seat for a few reasons. I love the Car Make Corn's shop in Japan, it's such a cool place in general, and they put out some quality products. I contacted Kadin from CMC USA and he helped me source this seat. I actually picked it up at this year's JCCS, pulling it from a car he sponsors. I also find the seat to be incredibly comfortable. I have a really bad lower back, and for whatever reason the CMC seat just fits me right.
This is just something I am experimenting with, the Recaros will make another appearance in the future when they are all reupholstered and ready to go in.
The seat in the Miata I removed it from at JCCS. Nothing like driving from Phoenix to Long Beach and back to Phoenix in the same day, just to buy a seat!
This gives you a very vague idea of how it might look in my 2002. Obviously pre-bench dye.
So there it is. A bucket seat so I don't flop around in the car, and a black rear bench. I'm looking at carpeting options right now, but I'll be pulling and trashing the red carpet soon. I'll be talking to another shop about the trunk rust repair this week, and hopefully getting the ball rolling on that soon. After that, suspension refresh, cooling system refresh and so on. Bare with me, because I know not all of these are popular decisions, buuuuut I promise I haven't lost sight of the end goal. Dying the rear seat and the CMC bucket are stop gaps, things to make me more comfortable and happy in the short term, while the long term plans flesh out. This is a bit of a low point after that video, but it'll all come together.
So I finally stopped navel gazing and ordered the gear up to install a Holley Sniper 2BBL EFI system. The parts list is below.
HLY-558-443 HARNESS USB/CAN SNIPER TBI $49.95
SNE-550-849 2 BBL EFI THROTTLE BODY $849.95
SUM-230615 S.S. HOSE -6 15FT $57.99
SUM-251000 FUEL PUMP EXTERNAL $119.99 (ordered this as the Holley unit seems to fail quickly in some cases)
SUM-251010 FUEL PUMP MOUNTING KIT 1 $7.99
VPE-16612 -6AN TO 10MM X 1.0 METRIC STR $11.90
Also ordered a Holley 350 (same base plate as the Holley EFI) to Webber adapter.
Anticipating that I may want to go EFI I have installed the following already
1) AEM wideband 02 sensor
2) Electric fuel pump with a Painless Performance relay harness
3) Inertia safety cutoff switch (cuts off the fuel pump in an accident)
4) 90A alternator
5) Ireland engineering radiator (to make sure that everything is cool)
6)-6 braided fuel line from the tank into the car (pre-pump, post tank)
7) All (I think) of the maintenance stuff and while you are at it stuff.
Things I will need to do other than the obvious.
1) I will likely have to take off the intake. It has to be "hogged out" to make the intake opening compatible with the EFI unit.
2) I will port match the intake to the head and maybe smooth out the inside a bit. I had read that the two inner runners shouldn't be touched, and just do the outside two runners as this will help even out the flow.
3) I will also modify the bit where the upper rad hose goes into the motor to accept a standard temperature sensor so the EFI can be appropriately tuned.
4) I may have to get a -6 inlet put in the gas tank as a return as the one for the evap tank (my car is a 1975 Cali spec) is rather small and may cause fuel backpressure issues if the return line is restricted.
5) I will have to figure out the pedal linkage, this is easy stuff, my fabricator guy, and I can figure a solution out I am sure.
Icon Display at the BMWCCA Foundation. What a great visit to the BMW Car Club of America Foundation in South Carolina! Check it out if you are close or passing through! They have a wonderful exhibition of some vintage “icons”on display for the 50th anniversary of the 2002! Of course the first thing I do when I see TESORO is detail him up! 🤦♀️😉
An old friend of mine contacted me over the weekend to film the 2002, as well as my friend's 912. They had just finished setting up a new camera rig, and wanted something to test shoot with. Thought I'd share the results, my ratty 2002 has never looked so good. I'll have more updates for the build blog later, but this should hold you over in the mean time.