For the love of 1600’s! Derby wins 1st place 🥇at the Legends of Autobahn for clean class! There’s something special and stunning about this early original 1600 that everyone seems to 💗! I’m so happy For Derby’s debut for Monterey car week! Thanks to everyone for the follow and support! 🤩 @ Nicklaus Club - Monterey
While my friends are safely rolling into Monterey, or at fabulous car parties.... I’m having a ‘detail party’ of my own tonight in my parents crowded garage with my sassy sweats on and getting both cars ready for Legends of the Autobahn.... !!! 😉
Derby does it again at the Little Car Show in Pacific Grove for cars under 1800cc’s !! This time with TWO awards from the Merchants Group of Pacific Grove and an Honorary award from the Pacific Grove Youth Center! 🏆There are no first place, best of show, etc at this car show. It’s all about the residents of this little town of Pacific Grove and their favorite picks! Thank you to the City of Pacific Grove giving Derby some love! 🤗💕
Derby wins Second place in class at the Carmel By the Sea Concours on the Avenue! Both cars presented really well and I was also invited up to the podium to talk about my cars with Donald Osborn and Alan de Cadanet! 😊 Thanks to the help of Bill Arnold BMW, Mike Berger at Matteson’s auto Repair in Pacific Grove , and Connor Elkington from @vintageautobahn! And the driver for Tesoro Andrew Wilson! 🤗🏆 So amazing to have met some really incredible car people and followers! Thanks for all the support!
I've been up to 'some' more body work on the car. A lot needed doing ever since, so I decided to just get back to it.
The floor panels were totally waisted so those were replaced. The rear panels were OK but needed some hammering
The rear end of the car was entire replaced since it would be easier to just cut if off all the way then do the rear sides and rear end etcetera individually.
I'll be doing some other small adjustments and fabbing, which I am still learning by doing, together with welding the 'new' nose and dashboard frame.
I hope to deliver the car in about two months for media blasting.
The car will need some more doing, but I'm starting to get more optimistic and excited for a nice body in the end.
Thinking about going for the M20 conversion
I've nailed down a few more projects: Steering, seatbelts and more, but that all lead to a massive road trip.
The goal was to replicate a drive from Ontario to BC, intended to reunite my cousin with his car. Sadly he passed - so this was a tribute to prove that the car would have made the epic trek.
The route was to go from London, Ontario to the end of the James Bay Road - right on the edge of the Arctic Ocean:
Here's the vid - It's a little long, but I hope it inspires more crazy trips!
So when I was in Kitchener Ontario visiting a friend, I went to unlock the passenger door and the key wouldn’t return to 90 degrees. The last time was in Pittsburgh and Dave Mason was able to get my key out.
This time was more dramatic and eventful. We called a locksmith who’s efforts proved fruitless after 15 minutes he admitted defeat. I offered to pay him for the house call yet he declined since he hadn’t been successful.
So it was on to Plan B. Which was remove the door panel. Sounds easy enough but the door was locked shut. So not as easy as it sounds. As luck would have it Adam Poll was driving by and recognized Vern!
With a little help I removed both the driver and passenger seats gaining me access to the passenger door card, it took longer to remove the vent window knob than removing the seats. With Adam’s plastic pry tools made quick work of removing the door card. With a little finagling we were able to get the door open. Problem was the key was still stuck in the handle.
Took another 2 minutes to remove the handle. Then we saw the root of the problem. The key lock cam wasn’t positioned correctly, the cam was above the spring that returns the key to 90 degrees for locking or unlocking. We corrected the problem. I haven’t tested the key yet rest assured it is fixed.
I locked passenger door then was able to open it with one pull of the interior handle when just recently it would open with 2 distinct clicks.
You know how project cars go, you start building some momentum and something comes along to set back your big plans for the year. Sometimes it's engine failure, sometimes it's odd gremlins from owners past, and sometimes it's rust. But more on that at the end. In the mean time, let me catch you up to yesterday. I've been talking about the brakes for a while now, but finally committed to the big brake swap before Big Euro. After further inspection, it was pretty obvious my driver's side caliper was sticking and destroying the pads. I could order another stock caliper, but what good would that do when I'd just swap it out shortly after?
First let's just appreciate how good these brake calipers look after a rebuild. The shaved Mk4 calipers look OEM, and a healthy dose of BMW Silver powder coat really brought these back to life. For those frankensteining their own brake kits from junkyard parts, I really suggest taking the time to blow apart your calipers and send them off to be refinished.
Before and after.
Note, even the Mk3 Jetta caliper carrier brackets were powder coated.
For those wondering, it is not just a flat silver, but actually has some flake in it
Again, massive credit to Dauerhaft Fab for his help on shaving and reassembled the Mk4 calipers. Wrenching is not my strong suit, but I do my best to muddle along. Pretty frequently I'll find myself over my head in these projects, and this was certainly one of them. Mk4 calipers have so many little seals and c clips down in the barrel behind the piston, and I just didn't have the tools to get the job done. So he was able to sand them, drop them off for powder, and reassemble them for me. He does top notch work, and will also be doing some massive fabrication work on the car here shortly. But more on that later.
In preparation for my big road trip, I started really examining all the possible fail points. I noticed a breather hose cracking, and replaced that quickly. The photo is just to show how it runs under the intake. It was a pain, but one less thing to worry about, preventative maintenance is probably the key here.
Now for the meat of my pre-Big Euro projects. Like I said before, who really wants to buy a new caliper that you're just going to replace in short order. While I wasn't really planning to redo all of my brakes before the road trip, I had no choice when I realized my driver's side caliper was just done for. I borrowed a friend's garage space (as his Miata is off for a full color change), and started the project.
I'm so used to working in my shitty driveway, that a garage like this is a complete dream.
For the front brakes, I'm running E21 hubs, with E21 vented rotors and Volvo 240 calipers. These are substantial upgrades over stock, and should provide more than enough stopping power for a street 2002. I have no intentions of tracking the car for now, so I opted to go with a pretty mild pad. But this also leaves me room to improve if I'm still not satisfied with the overall results.
E21 hub on. I put in brand new wheel bearings, and fresh studs (again...)
Some of you may remember that I tried putting on braided brake lines before, but gave up when a nut started stripping out on me. I had attempted to locate some pre-made lines, but really only one company offers a kit, and they refused to reply to my e-mails asking me if they'd sell just the caliper lines. I don't blame them, but I get salty easily. Again, my friends come to the rescue. My buddy (who is in the process of building one of the best Miata's ever) recently purchased a flaring tool, so he could make new lines for his shaved bay. I got to be the guinea pig for his line making skills, and we created one new brake line for my caliper.
Here's the damaged line. Even vice grips were slipping off, it was completely toast.
Replicated line. We ended up making a second as this one had some strut clearance issues, but it gave us a chance to practice more.
Here's a full side mocked up.
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to finish the project this weekend as I'm a little slow. I forgot to order the hardware to hold the pads in the calipers, so the car sits in his garage awaiting that. The rear will come shortly after, and is a little more involved. I'm once again struggling to get the axle nuts off. But, I'm thrilled with how it's turning out so far.
Finally, some bad news. You may remember that I was complaining about a horrible noise coming from the true rear coilovers. It sounded like metal on metal rubbing, and I assumed that it was the high pre-load or the springs rubbing on the bolted in strut brace. Unfortunately, CAtuned was right in saying it was rust. While working on a separate project for the trunk, I noticed a hairline crack in the paint that I hadn't given much thought to before. And exploratory poke confirmed there was rust under there, so we took the flap disc to it to see how bad the damage was.
The extent of the damage on this side.
I hate rust. I knew that the floor of the trunk was shot, but when I inspected the car the towers seemed clean. Certainly, there are worse 2002s out there, and this is not beyond saving, but it's one of those things that spoils your day. I've already made arrangements to have the car repaired with Dauerhaft, so there will be a series of posts on that in the future, I'm sure. In the mean time, the general consensus is, that I'm alright to drive to and from San Diego for Big Euro. New shock towers, some reinforcements and other changes will be made after that. Most other cars I'd just give up on at this point, but this 2002 is absolutely worth saving. Just throws a wrench in some plans I had for this year unfortunately.
To cheer myself up, I test fitted my friend's new uber-rare 4x100 StarSharks. I'm actually not sure it cheered me up, because now I find myself wanting a set. I love my RSs, I just did not expect the StarSharks to look that good on the 2002. But hey, let's end on a high note for this update. This week I'll be tackling the rear disc conversion and some other odds and ends. Then it's just some more prep before Big Euro, and a very careful 800 mile road trip. I'm confident it'll be fine, and feel better knowing that in short order I'll be making the chassis strong again. It's a 45 year old car, these things happen.
So much want.
TESORO is all ready to rock and roll for Monterey car week! Heading down to Monterey now, but it’s a bit bittersweet.... TESORO’s last ride in CA! After Monterey car week... my little treasure will be shipped out to South Carolina to the BMW Foundation Museum TIL January 2019! Looking forward to an amazing last week with my TESORO! 🖤 Thank you to the most talented car photographer @misscourtneymae for documenting this journey! 📸
My daughter and I are selling 2002 "factory color" shirts to raise money for a big parts buy. (Suspension, brakes, etc.) All the colors, all the sizes!
Pre-orders only, until August 31, 2018. Shirts will ship in September. Order here
Been bouncing around the idea in my head for a while and I finally pulled the trigger. I figured it's easier now than later when the car is all put together. I wanted the cooling system plumbing to match the fuel, oil and differential oil plumbing so I converted everything over to AN -20. Super easy to do but it set me back about $600. I'll be using an in-line radiator filler from Summit (not yet arrived).
Got the bars bent for the main hoop on the roll cage and for the front radiator/hood support. The front support is bolt on and removable, if need be, in the future. The lower radiator support is a welded in bar between the frame rails. The radiator sits at a slight angle so there should be plenty of room between it and the motor, not to mention I wont be running a fan, cap and rotor, etc. Which also makes the plumbing of the cooling system much more simple as well.
@AceAndrew your website https://adamsautosport.com/ mentions a bare bones M20 swap. Is that me? Wasn't sure because I wouldn't consider this an M2002 but this car is definitely bare bones.
Slowly but surely....
I pulled the front and rear subframes, welded on reinforcement plates and adjustable rear camber and toe kit. Powder coated both subframes, put poly-urethane subframe mounts and bushings everywhere besides the motor mounts to avoid unwanted vibrations in the car.
Ground control coil over kit in front and adjustable spring mount in rear paired with bilstein sports.
“Big brake” 320i vented front discs with with Volvo girling calipers and rear 250mm 320i drums for ample stopping power. Stainless brake lines and Adams Autosport cunifer hardlines. All hidden behind a set of BBS rs001s freshly powder coated and polished.
Stock engine other than a set of IE street headers and stainless exhaust. But that’s next on the list....
Vern won 1st place in Vintage 1st & 2nd Generation Super Clean Class at the Boston Chapter's BMW CCA Day at Larz Anderson Auto Museum in Brookline, MA
Chris Auty won 3rd in the same class with his 1967 BMW 1600GT.