Blogs

 

Initial Tuning Setup and Tips

When I was running the engine on the stand, I used the default tables and only modified a handful of settings specifically to the engine. It started and ran "fine" that way. Once I moved everything into the vehicle and was ready to actually start tuning, I wanted to establish a more rational baseline to work from. The very first thing I did was upgrade my MegaSquirt firmware to the latest version. Mine was very old (3.1.0 vs. 3.4.2), and this change alone made the engine run noticeably better. I then made changes to the settings and tables following the approach of Andy Whittle on YouTube. Lastly, and this made the greatest improvement, I generated a new initial ignition table.   You can watch Andy's initial setup how-to video here. In just 11 minutes he walks you through the key initial settings that are specific to your engine and sensors. Since I am not running boost, his instructions on how to change the scales of the MS tables to give greater resolution for N/A builds was a nice insight. If you've done a MegaSquirt build before, there is really nothing new here, but for us first-timers, it's a concise, helpful walk-through.   For an initial ignition table, this tool is really handy. The table it generated with M10 specific information was radically different from the default table and dramatically improved running and driving. In the image below you can see the data for the M10 typed into the tool. Your idle vacuum may vary. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, you can calculated the idle vacuum from the MS MAP reading like this: Your in-Hg of vacuum at idle = 0.346 * (100 - your kpa of MAP at idle).      I made one more change after driving around for a bit, which was to turn Overrun Fuel Cut-off on with a delay of 0.5 seconds. This eliminated deceleration backfiring, which was really intense since I was driving with no exhaust system.   I hope this has been helpful.   Jesse.  
 

A frustrating move using a U-Haul trailer!

My youngest daughter is graduating from high school this year and her grad party is in 2 weeks.  My wife has been working on tent rentals, catering, etc. and unfortunately, I promised her that the 2002 would be out of the garage by then.  I honestly thought it would be at the paint shop.  Well, I explained in a prior posst that my scheduleis way off and I'm not going ot have this car ready for Oktoberfesdt/PVGP, so I had to get the car battened down for a trip to the warehouse where I keep a couple of other cars.       Yesterday, I attached a couple of 2x6 boards to the pylons of the dolly to make them sturdier for transport.  I also installed a handful of through-bolt eye-bolts into the dolly to use as tie down points.     I was unable to secure a regular flat car trailer, so I decided to try to use a U-haul 6x12 trailer with the loading ramp.  I knew this would probably be a major challenge, but I thought the experiment was worth the $35 rental fee for the day.  I can't use a regular U-haul car hauler because the wheels of my dolly are not wide enough to fit on the ramps or tracks.     Winch Solution:   I bought a small ATV winch from Harbor Freight for $56 (with the always happening 20% off web-coupon) and mounted it to the front of my car dolly.  I'll add some pictures of that when I get a chance as I think it is pretty cool.  The thing has a remote key fob, so you don't need wires.   I set a car battery in the 2002's battery tray and hooked the winch up directly to the battery with a fuse.   Now whatever trailer I use, I will always be able to load and unload the car!      There are a couple of major considerations when using a U-haul trailer.      1. The gate is not the full width of the trailer.   The gate opening is 58 inches wide and the "fence" at the gate is 27 inches tall (it is taller around the rest of the trailer).  The frame rail of a 2002 is about 53 inches wide. but the doors are wider than 58 inches wide.  By pure dumb luck I built my dolly to be about 27 inches tall.  Even so, with the angled fence and an inclined ramp, I had initially a little over an inch of clearance to the frame rail on both sides when loading and managed to scrape the car slightly where the lower trim would be if it were installed.  Once the car was in the trailer, there was moderate clearance on all sides except the back (see below).  Raise the tongue more (see below) to get more clearance at the gate.   If you have a dolly that sets the car lower than about 27 inches, you will not be able to use this type of U-Haul trailer.       2. The bed of a U-Haul trailer is CORRUGATED STEEL!  It is not flat!   The disadvantage of this did not fully dawn on me until I was ready to unload the car and could not get the swivel castors to rotate so I could unload it.  In the end, I used a floor jack to lift each end of the dolly and turn the wheels around by hand.   I would HIGHLY recommend getting some plywod to place on the bed of the trailer if you decide to use one.      3. The tongue jack only jacks the tongue to a little above level.  The issue here is that you want the ramp to be as in-line with the trailer bed as possible to avoid bottoming out on the lip of the trailer and you want as much clearance as possible around that gate fence.  I happened to have a bunch of 2x8x8 blocks I made as jack-stand extensions and I threw 3 under the tongue jack to make high enough when unloading.      4. The trailer isn't long enough.  I thought I measured my car and that it would fit on a 12 foot trailer without bumpes.  Apparently not, as there was about 8 inches sticking out the back when I get the car all the way in with about 4 inches of space up front.  I did not think to measure the trailer but suspect that it is not really 12 feet.  Fortunately, I had some huge sheets of foam insulation and I just tied the (counterbalanced) trailer ramp to the trailer and put the pads behind the rear lower sill of the car.    5.  The tongue of the trailer extends 8 feet beyond the trailer to the hitch.  With that huge tongue, the whole rig including the truck was nearly 40 feet long.  This made maneuvering the truck to my garage at the rear of the house very difficult.  I drove on the lawn.  ALOT.  My wife nearly killed me when she saw the damage I did.  Hey, it's grass!  And it is growing season!  I'm sure it will be fine for the grad partyy in two weeks!  :-)     The trailer had plenty of tie downs and I was able to secure tiedowns from the eyelets I installed on the dolly to the trailer very easily.  Once loaded, the car didn't move an inch.       The 2002 is now resting peacefully in the warehouse space where it will probably sit until mid-June when I can start working on it again.  I'm already working on other ways to get the car back into my garage that do not involve a U-Haul trailer.       Thanks for reading!  I hope this was useful for you!     Scott    
 

Better to take the doors off!

So I must say...I'm so pleased with this car! It’s 50 years old and 98.3% rust free!  I keep giggling! Today's giggles started when we got the doors off and I closely examined the bottoms!  Nada rust. Lovin it.

Dionk

Dionk

 

Today's progress

Engine bay, wheel wells and prep.....lots of prep. Sigh.  At some point a previous owner coated the wheel wells with tar or grease - holy cow what a huge paint to clean.

Dionk

Dionk

 

Getting closer

Well if you curious the DIY paint in the garage paint job is getting close to being done.     Here are are a couple pics - cloudy day can’t wait to see this car in the sunlight - running.  Yeah that would be nice as well.

Dionk

Dionk

 

Interior panel fab, re-arranging the deck chairs on the Titanic

Not the most productive of weekends.  I pretty much just made some new interior panels.  the car when I bought it had been sitting in a field in Houston for a LONG time.  Most of the interior panels were covered in black mold.  So most of that went by the way side.  The goal for this car has been extremely lightweight.  With that said I still wanted a some what finished looking interior.  I had a roll of grey carpet left over from another project.  I then just went to the local home depot and got some 2.7 mm birch plywood.  I cut the panels to fit and covered with the carpet.  The fit turned out pretty good, and honestly hard to complain for about $20 in material and few hours labor.     Next up is patching what was left of the dash pad.  I have now gone through 3 rounds of padded dash filler and sanding.  Hopefully when all is said and done the dash turns out looking decent.  These shorter duration projects that are visible are helping get some wind back in my sails.  It's been 3+ long years of working on this car.  I've never driven it, it has been incredibly hard not to lose all motivation.  It will be worth it when I get to drive it! That's what I keep telling myself at least. steering wheel will get replaces at some point in the future.    Passenger door crank screw is stripped out.  Any ideas how to salvage? Seating position is moved way back.  Entry and exit are surprisingly not bad.  I will need to extend the shifter up about 6-9" but that should put it right off the steering wheel and keep my elbow high enough not to hit the park/drift brake.  

maikell77

maikell77

 

Day 179: Brake booster and schedule delays

First, the good news.  I shipped my brake booster off to Power Brake Exchange in San Jose/Bell Gardens and Louis turned it around in about a week.  (http://www.pwrbrake.com/ )   I have not had a chance to test it yet, of course, but oit looks great!   Here is a before image.  BRake fluid had stripped a lot of the paint off and there was a layer of crud, of course.  And here is an after shot.  They dismantled, soda blasted and repainted the unit.  The only things they did not do is mask off the studs and replace the bellows and vacuum nipple, which is OK since they are in good shape and I can't even find a number for them and am assuming they is NLA.      The price for this service was somewhat less than the other vendors I found.  The site mentions a core, but you have to send them your core to rebuild.  I am certain this is the unit I sent them.   http://www.pwrbrake.com/inventory/search/yr/1975/make/bmw/mdl/2002/smdl/base/l/2.0/cyl/4/   OK, now the bad news.  I have had a few setbacks including an odd medical one (called Fever of unknown origin) that put me out for about 3 weeks, as well as a delay on one of my larger revenue generating projects.  I had expected to have this car out of paint by now and be working to rebuild it almost full time.  Clearly, that hasn't happened and I'm dedicating about 110% to the other project so I can get it done.  As a result, there is no way I'll be bringing this car to The Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix/Oktoberfest in July.  I will have at least one other non-BMW there and I will probably bring a different BMW, but I was really hoping to have a 2002 there for the 50th anniversary, especially since I signed up and committed to having a 2002.  I'm half-tempted to buy another "before" 2002 to bring and am actually looking for another car, but am not optimistic.  I'll be wrapped up with that other project by early June, so I'll be back on this project then.      Who knows, this may be a good thing.  My engine rebuilder told me it would be 3-months before he could get my engine back so I was only going to have the head done and had planned to do all the gaskets myself.   This might be an opportunity to get the engine rebuilt properly and brought up to the standard of the rest of rest of the car.    Take care and thanks for reading!                   
 

Paint and body

Well the car was at Le Trans from August until a few weeks ago. We drove from Miami to Le’s place. We did get to spend a few more days driving it around the area. Made more memories!   Now it’s time for paint. The car has all new suspension,cooling, 123 ignition, rebuilt rear end, rebuilt 5speed etc. Basically the car looks prettier underneath than it does on top.    I was happy to see how dry the car is after removing all the glass and interior. Unfortunately I dropped one of the rear side widows removing it.    I haven’t decided wether to use single stage or 2 stage paint. Sometimes I see old cars with 2 stage paint and they don’t look right to me, too shiny, too deep. 2 stage is probably better longer lasting paint so I haven’t ruled it out.    Our car had tons of small dents but luckily they where mostly all asccesable from behind. Some we welded small rods too and used a body puller to pull them out.    I want to detail the trunk. I am considering stripping all the paint with either chemical stripper or wet blasting. Then treating the surface with ospho, then primer and then paint I would like too protect the area for years to come. I am not crazy about the bumpy protective finish usually applied to the shock towers and trunk sides. I think it can look dirty, then again I’ve never seen what it looks like fresh.   The motor will be removed when I get back from the vintage. The plan is to detail and prime the engine compartment also.    I hope to paint the engine compartment, trunk and engine compartment myself and leave the outside to the pros.    Stay tuned for for a BIG update after the Vintage.   
 

Satin Espresso Rattle Can Engine Bay

So while installing the subframe, between getting cranky when the subframe slipped off the jack, thought I would experiment with a colour for the engine bay. The purists might hate it but as mentioned numerous times my car isnt being built for show, just to go!! Although there are still quite a few holes I need to fill on the drivers side the colour doesn't look too bad in my opinion and definitely cleans up the engine compartment, which needs to get done before I can put the new engine between the rails.    In the first picture I sprayed the left side and left the original paint in the top right so that they could be looked at side by each. Ignore the wiring harness which needs to be cleaned up, have to go through the whole thing to get rid of the engine components as the stand alone should deal with most of it. Heading back to work tonight but will hopefully get the remainder of the front suspension in place - still waiting for the Bilsteins to get off back order to finish up the rears 
 

Front subframe install

Was a nice day today so decided to get a few little things taken care of on the 02 today. As I am working outside and for the most part by myself I decided to install the suspension parts piece by piece rather than assemble the whole thing and try to balance it up into place. Before putting the subframe in place i pulled the bolts out of the frame rails and started cleaning up the site, not going to be a concours car but still like to have things clean. Not sure if it was factory or not but there was a lot of sticky stone guard material that had to be scraped before covering it up with rust protection and then paint. Once that was done I cleaned up all the threads with the trusty tap and die kit - if you dont have one of these I highly recommend getting one, takes a little time but the results are AMAZING! Nothing like being able to properly torque bolts down, and you will be surprised just how much rust and gunk can be removed as you can see in the one picture.   Lots more coming and will take some pictures of the rattle can engine bay spray once the rain stops enough for me to go snap a few        

Current Problem List

This is a list of the current things I have noticed about the car, roughly in order of how serious I am about fixing them. The goal is to separate out each of these into it's own blog post, regardless of size, but we will see how that works out.   Burning oil/bad smells. There is a reason I have named the car "Mr Toots"; there is the acrid smell of (what I believe to be) burning oil when I drive it. Originally, I suspected valve guide seals, because of problem #2, but I've noticed that there is oil around the valve cover and believe it is either the valve cover gasket or PCV system. Here's the entry I made on the replacement. Really slow cold start. When I got the car, it started quickly. I'd hit a priming button on the dash to inject fuel into the manifold for around 2 seconds, then turn it over and start quickly. I performed an oil change after I got the car to 20W50 Full Synthetic, and now it takes a lot of love to get it to start when cold, involving multiple priming attempts and turning on and off the extra fuel injectors. The root cause of a lot of this is the cobbled-together nature of the fuel injection system. It seems like changing the oil was the root of the problem, which seems like an ill omen. Different people have suggested the valve guides are worn or something like that, but I don't get a lot of smoke when the car does start, so I'm not sure about that. I eventually fixed this by noticing that the cold start relay was unplugged from the battery. I must have knocked it loose during the oil change. Idiot! Front seats don't fold forward. I know that they are not original, and I can't find a lever anywhere to adjust inclination. Low power. The car is fun to drive but remarkably low on power before the turbo spools. Coming from a small british sportscar with a 1275cc engine, Mr. Toots feels very sluggish under 3000rpm, and roughly equivalent in 'oomph' when under 4psi of boost. My other car has a weight:power ratio of around 20:1, whereas a stock tii is nominally 17:1, so I think I should be getting a little more out in the lower range. This is a lower priority issue and I think other work on this car will improve the power more. I also know that chasing power is the best way to be disappointed in a car, so I don't care about this as much as long as I have that sweet, sweet boost to keep me company. Loose steering. There is about 10-15 degrees of play in the steering wheel when moving. I'd like to nail down the cause before deciding whether it is worth fixing. See #7 as well. Fluid check & swap. I've changed the engine oil but plan on also replacing: Turbo oil Coolant Gearbox oil Diff fluid Suspension. The car feels pretty tight but I have doubts about the rear shocks. Will likely replace all shocks as an excuse to take a look at the car. Also will try to put as many bolt-on suspension upgrades as possible. Will not do anything that requires modifying the frame. I'd like to build a bolt-on rear strut reinforcement. I have found references to them existing in the past but can't find anyone selling them these days. If I move to adjustable rear coilovers, I'd like the extra reinforcement without needing to weld in a cage. Auxiliary stuff. These are just other things I want to do to the car: Fog light mounts. In progress, using some proprietary materials from work. Will publish once we've announced them publicly. Exhaust O2 sensor. Installation and mounting in console or on dash. Re-doing center console. Because it looks like crap. Tracking down stereo system problems. Despite having a costly looking setup, the sound quality is fairly garbage and the driver's side speaker cuts in randomly. I hate electrical work, so this is low priority. I'd like to find a way to get Campagnolo wheels on the thing, I love the look of vintage gold campy's or reproduction versions. Plus I am a bike person and I find the idea of putting Campagnolo wheels on a car funny. An E21 LSD swap would be fun, since I haven't touched that part of a car yet, but I am not sold on it yet. I'll know after I take a look at the diff during a fluid swap. After checking out all brakes, I may want to upgrade. The car stops well, but I need to be more maneuverable than anything else on the road to feel safe in a vehicle this old. Figuring out the body. Rear half of the car has a matte black primer job on it, front has glossy black which is cracking off. There is some red (likely Malaga) under the front black paint, but blue under the back. I think that the car was halfway primered with blue at some point. It's a mess. There is a weld bead near the drivers side brake light. Clearly the car has seen an impact in that corner. Would like to investigate the rear frame more. There are a few random rust patches that I should treat. The hood is not aligned correctly and interferes with the passenger door opening. I need a buddy to help with this. It is high priority. On 5/17, someone did a nice hit and run on the side and bent the driver side rear quarter panel in a bit. Animals. On 5/24, someone also shattered my left rear light. I think it was the garbage men.   I'll update this list as time goes on, and provide links to the relevant posts for each issue.

TOOTII

TOOTII

Seats

Seats   Another small update, but progress is progress so I'll take it. Wish I took more photos of the brackets specifically, but I suppose they aren't much to look at. I started off by restrapping the drivers side seat. Mk2 VW Recaros use a sling style support under the cushion to hold you up. My drivers seat sling had fallen apart, and was poorly repaired. I converted it over to this sling style support using the stock hardware. Let me be the first to say, holy shit this sucks to do. The actual metal bars it sits on are pretty flimsy, and these are obviously very strong elastic, so it kept bending the metal supports. Eventually I figured out that if you start at the bottom and slowly work your way up the hooks, it is a little bit more manageable. I only did this on the drivers side, because the passenger seat was in tact, and I really didn't feel like struggling with it again.    Nice and firm, but a pain to install   So the interior is actually due for a lot of work. The previous owner had started converting over to a red/black color scheme. I think it would have looked pretty good finished, but it wasn't for me. I'm not sure who chose to do the rear and passenger seats in Brown/Green, but I think it looks horrible. The drivers seat is mismatched, and with the red carpet the whole setup is an eyesore.    So many colors, so little coordination   The actual installation of the Recaros wasn't difficult (once I figured out what I was doing). I used the Aardvarc Racing Recaro seat adapters. For any other 2002 owners out there, most Recaro seats from this era use the same 16" base. Just measure the distance between the hardware that holds the OEM seat rails on, and you'll know for sure. Because of this, I was just able to use an adapter that is typically used to mount E21 320is seats in.    Also, it's worth noting that if you buy the Aardvarc kit, you'll need to buy new shorter hardware to bolt the adapters on. The stock bolts are too long, as they compensate for the bulky stock rails. You'll need 6 M8x1.25 bolts, ~20-25mm in length.    Driver's side in, looks better but not great   Passenger in   So far, from my brief test drives with the seats, I love them. They sit a little bit higher then I want, however I find that the added bolstering and real support has transformed the car for me. Eventually I plan to get these reupholstered. So while they aren't the prettiest for now, they do serve a functional purpose. In my head, this also kind of fits the narrative of the Neue Klasse cars. BMW had wanted to make a family sedan that you could take to the racetrack on the weekends. Well, if you need bucket seats but don't want to upset your significant other too much, what better way to do that then some plush Recaros? So I'd call this a great success.    Side note, I had started to install the braided brake lines this weekend but ran into disaster. Turns out 45 year old hard line is typically seized and very soft. Ended up rounding off a couple nuts, so I'm scrambling to get new lines in. I was able to get the car back together and limp it home, but it's not ideal. 

benzintinte

benzintinte

 

Wheel Bearings and Playing Catch Up

Had quite the adventure! Vern's rear passenger wheel bearing wore out after well over 90K miles. Luckily I have several friends in the Cincinnati area who offered mechanical assistance, expertise and a new set of Tii wheel bearings from Larry Gray! The added bonus was I was able to see Lance White, Jason Gipson, Eric King and Scott Aaron. We were on the road again by 2pm.   We drove as far as Calvert City Kentucky. Woke up early and made tracks toward Paragould Arkansas to try and catch the caravan from Dayton Ohio. We caught up to them at a rest stop on route 412 arriving to a round of applause. We stopped for lunch in Mountain Home then continued on toward Eureka Springs. We stopped at the Arkansas Visitor's Center and had an impromptu '02 Fest when several cars behind our caravan stopped in as well. All 14 2002s drove into Eureka Springs in loose formation.

adawil2002

adawil2002

 

Hoarder Status

Who else has a collection? Let's see 'em! I know mine's not very big, but when I do see something I buy it regardless of whether I need it or not. Like with most things on these cars you never know when something will not be available again and then skyrocket in value. I used to hoard car parts too but I finally let that go to fund this project. Who knows, maybe one day my great great grandchildren will be able to cash in on my $1 hot wheels.     As of now my residence only has a car port, no garage . So all my parts for the build are tucked away in a teeny tiny shed. Finally got around to cleaning things up a bit, it was hairy for a while there. It's kind of a bummer not being able to work on the car as a whole at home. I do have a pretty nice tool collection that doesn't get much use because of this, and a collection that needs displaying.     Not much to update on the car itself, although I did finish the turn signals. Being strapped for time doesn't allow me a whole lot of under-car time. Actually most of my spare time recently has been spent parting out a car, a regular side business I have to fund my project. Its the circle of life. My goal is to do at least 1 thing every day to get closer to being finished with the car, it could be just 5 minutes or it could be 5 hours. Now its got me curious; How much time have I spent on this car already? How many hours? Should've kept a data log or something it would have been interesting.   On a higher note, big things are coming! I contracted a man to come help me get some things done on the car finally. In the next month or so there should be some major progress happening! I'm excited that things are picking up again. This car is definitely being updated to a more current century. All LED lighting, and the only rubber on the car will be tires and seals/gaskets, everything poly baby!  

02tradition

02tradition

 

Getting ready for paint.

Well the car was at Le Trans from August until a few weeks ago. We drove from Miami to Le’s place. We did get to spend a few more days driving it around the area. Made more memories!   Now it’s time for paint. The car has all new suspension,cooling, 123 ignition, rebuilt rear end, rebuilt 5speed etc. Basically the car looks prettier underneath than it does on top.    I was happy to see how dry the car is after removing all the glass and interior. Unfortunately I dropped one of the rear side widows removing it.    I haven’t decided wether to use single stage or 2 stage paint. Sometimes I see old cars with 2 stage paint and they don’t look right to me, too shiny, too deep. 2 stage is probably better longer lasting paint so I haven’t ruled it out.    In retrospect I wish I would have started with the paint and done the mechanicals later.  

infanterene`

infanterene`

 

Cardboard M10 head complete

Originally I was gonna make the valves and valve springs open and close.  After a year in building this, I came to my senses and went for the look instead.  Made some stylized spark nuts too. The rocker arm shafts had to be made independently  to account for the variances in the head assembly.  The valve springs I coiled around some PVC pipe and glued linear struts to hold them to shape. Works for this application.     

conkitchen

conkitchen

Parts Collecting

Parts Collecting   Things have been slow with the 2002, it's taken a lot longer to get in parts then I had anticipated. Not many big updates in this post, mostly just parts collecting.    The first guy I had arranged to trade hubs with flaked out, and it took a few weeks to find someone willing to sell me a set. Fortunately they have arrived. I also have all new wheel bearings ready to go when it's time to do the swap. I've also ordered all new brake components, including braided hoses. Figured I might as well upgrade while I'm in there.        My RS faces came back from powder coating. Although nearly identical to the OZ Vega faces, these are finished in Prismatic's Spanish Gold. It's just slightly lighter, but works well with the Sahara beige on the car.      Frankly, it's impossible to tell the difference in photos.   How I got them, to where they are now.   I also (finally) got my 1 inch lips back from polishing. It took well over a month, but the wait was worth it.The two inch lips are for sale, if anyone is interested. I had debated running the two inch lips in the rear, but I'd rather have a square setup.      The last bit of parts hunting came in the form of some VW Mk2 GLI Recaro seats. I actually used to own a GLI with identical seats, and they were easily my favorite part of the car. A pristine set happened to pop up on Craigslist a couple hours away, so I went to grab them before I could convince myself I didn't need them. I actually ended up getting two sets of Mk2 Recaros while I was down there, the second set was free, but absolutely destroyed. The plan is to eventually reupholster these seats in the factory tobacco brown when I redo the interior, however in the mean time they'll just go in as is. It's not the prettiest solution, but I'll get there eventually. Right now Function>Form.    I also got a Jetta rear bench and a second set of destroyed Mk2 Recaros while I was there.   In terms of actual wrenching, all I have done is fuss with the rear coilovers. The right rear spring has been making some horrific noise lately. I got the car up in the air and disassembled everything on that side. A quick look shows the the CAtuned spring is a little picky about how it sits. If it isn't clocked just so, it rubs on the body.      Yikes.   I realigned everything and it is definitely better, but still not perfect. There are a few other things I want to tackle (mainly having my rear strut brace welded in, vs. bolted in), but if the noise persists then I need to rethink suspension in the rear. The goal is ultimately handling focused, so I know I can still get the car on rails with a divorced spring and shock setup.   Right, so not much else going on so far. Tentative plan is to have the car four lug swapped and on RSs before the end of May. I've been slacking on reassembling my wheels, but I'll take care of that shortly. I also will have a garage space for the 2002 soon, which will make things a little easier over the summer. The goal is to have the car "done" by September for Big SoCal Euro. I'd like to drive it from Phoenix to San Diego for the show. That will include a total suspension refresh (bushings, ball joints, tie rods, track rod, etc.), some interior bits, cooling system overhaul and hopefully some sort of sound system. Next post should have real, tangible progress on the car itself.

benzintinte

benzintinte