MildSeven

Kugelfischer
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About MildSeven

  • Birthday 04/08/1981

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  • Website URL https://soundcloud.com/guger

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Montreal, Canada
  • Interests Ladies

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  1. MildSeven

    FS: IE Street/Track Step-Style Header

    Pending local sale Friday... Will update others via PM if the sale falls through. Thanks Anthony Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  2. MildSeven

    FS: IE Street/Track Step-Style Header

    PMs replied. I'm not sure if it lines up exactly where the stock exhaust starts but looks like it would. It was attached to a custom exhaust.
  3. $125usd + shipping from Montreal, Canada. I have a used IE Street/Track step-style header for sale (this one: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02stephead1.html) + flange welded. + O2 Bung welded on. Last year I sanded it (3m abrasive pad) and painted it VHT paint but I wasn't able to follow the curing process on the car, so it didn't come out good :(. There's a small 1/2" area which wasn't welded-perfectly, thus a small leak, shown below: I also have the exhaust piping all the way up to the muffler (right after the rear-sub frame), which I could sell. thanks, Anthony
  4. MildSeven

    Alarming reaction

    Thanks again... I just used you automatic door write up as a guide, it really helped. I'll just add the following tip, for the wiring from car to door, to help others. To pass the wire from the car to the door, I drilled two ¾” holes, 1 on the door, other on the a pillar. I used a rubber grommet on the a-pillar and a plastic grommet on the door + a rubber hose for the wires to sit in. The rubber grommet on the car (a-pillar) is smaller (in terms of inner diameter), so the rubber hose is snug (held in place), the plastic grommet on the door has a larger inner diameter so the rubber hose will be fed in to the door. Final result:
  5. MildSeven

    Door latch and lock.

    I was lucky, I searched and found Simeon's blog before setting mine up, so I used that to guide me. I took photos of how I did the "wire tubing," because I was planing to add it to Simeon's blog as a comment to help others.
  6. MildSeven

    Door latch and lock.

    Thanks, I actually don't have an issue with the locks working, they function. my issue was, when I would close the door, the "first click" would engage on the latch, not alloweing me to lock the door (manually or automatically). I feared that moving the latch point (B-pillar) would make the doors stick out a little, but it did not. thanks, Anthony
  7. MildSeven

    Door latch and lock.

    for the sake of "completing" this thread for others to search... this was what I meant earlier by 1 and 2 clicks: I don't have any experience yet in terms of quality, I only just installed them. This is the kit brand: uxcell (although it's stamped "Lando" on the unit). https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XYHZWMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If i have an issue down the line, I'll report back.
  8. MildSeven

    Door latch and lock.

    Thanks for the reply. I had already cleaned and lubed up everything. Turns out the issue was the latching point on the b-pillar. I moved it out (away from the interior) a bit and slam the door a little more firmly. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  9. Trying to figure out the issue with my latch... which prevents me from locking the door. I was finishing up installing automatic locks (at 1am). Everything worked fine when I would test with the door open, manually engaging the latch (to pretend the door was closed). ...but when I close it, it won't lock with the key or automatic lock. I noticed it works when i close the latch by hand (with the door open). It seems there are 2 "clicks" (levels) on the latch. The first will not allow the door to lock, but if I turn it to the 2nd click by hand it works. Problem is, I think closing the door only gets the 1 click to happen, preventing the locks for working. I'm thinking of I adjust the strike plate/part (cant think of name) on door jamb outward. It might work but would also make the doors hang out. I did some searching last night at 2am. Didnt find anything. I'm at my kids swimming class still thinking what I should do. I"m hoping I could get some advice before I start looking at it this afternoon. Thanks a lot, Anthony Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  10. MildSeven

    Exhaust header nuts

    thanks everyone!
  11. MildSeven

    Exhaust header nuts

    thanks Toby. one last one, I haven't in the past but, should I use any sealant on the exhaust gasket?
  12. MildSeven

    Exhaust header nuts

    Thanks! I believe I have a couple of nuts like this (currently holding the header on), I remember using different combination wrenches to get the job done. another question, I should put copper anti-seize on the studs and on the exhaust sleeves, where the stainless sleeve slips on the stainless pipe? ...secured by band clamps
  13. MildSeven

    Exhaust header nuts

    thanks guys. I want to be able to walk in to a shop here and buy it to avoid waiting on shipping from US. on Real OEM it has: M8 SW12 I also found 8x1.25 non flanged
  14. From memory, I currently have a mix match of nuts holding my exhaust header on, I didn't want to go through the hassle of removing it until I'm ready to put on my new IE header on. I need some help... I think the proper nuts are copper, but what size/thread? I'm a little embarrassed that I wasn't able to find the answer on my own, Google has got me a little confused. Can someone help me, so that when I walk in to a shop I know what to ask for? The thread size and nut head size. Thanks, Anthony