MildSeven

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About MildSeven

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  • Birthday 04/08/1981

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  • Website URL https://soundcloud.com/guger

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Montreal, Canada
  • Interests Ladies

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  1. interested, PM sent.
  2. The other thing... as soon as the item is sold, update the thread
  3. Hey Luke, I'll tell you the short version of my story and you'll likely find some similarities which will help you make a decision. I'm in Montreal, I purchased my 2002 from Toronto 3 years ago. I thought I was purchasing a nice 2002 which needed minimal body work, I was wrong. I didn't do a ton of homework before the purchase. I originally wanted an old 911, they went through the roof shortly after, then I considered an 70s Alfa GTV, expensive, a friend pointed me to the 2002 and I liked it. Even after all the headaches it brought, I'm happy with my decision. Similar to you, I did not have much mechanical knowledge prior to purchasing this car but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty. I don't know how to weld but if you want to burn through some metal with a MIG, I'm your man. So, I bought a ’76 and yadda, yadda yadda... took the car apart, found lots of nasty surprises (rust, holes, patches). Had it painted, put it together, it's running, not well, but should be sorted out this spring/summer.... but you yadda yadda'd over the best part. This forum alone makes a great case to purchase a 2002. Toby, Simeon, Zinz, Son of Marty, Stevenola, 76mintgrun and others have directly provided me super valuable answers & information. I wanted/want my 2002 to be a summer weekend daily driver and a few days to work (I live like 3-4kms from the office). Most of the 2002s you find for sale either need work or are expensive, there are also some which need work and are expensive :p. I think that BAT auction will end much higher than what you see today. So it depends on your budget. If you don’t want to spend top, top dollar, on a freshly restored 2002 and want to do some stuff yourself. I will go against the grain and suggest finding something on our side of the border, that you “know” needs some work. I know in QC cars need to pass a safety inspection when they’re being imported, I assume it’s the same in ON, so maybe you could avoid that by buying a car already registered in ON. For welding I found someone to help, a welding school student (most of the time) and a friend (who works with arc). The rest of it I learned with the help of the forum and books. Most of it is pretty easy. You can check out my project blog, it’s all documented. Currently, there’s not much (online) right now in ON, a tii at $15kusd ($20k cad) http://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/ottawa/1974-bmw-2002tii-4spd-manual-matching-numbers-motor/1233937426?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true good luck, Anthony
  4. I wouldn't say anything. I used to hold an item for the first person who said they wanted it (without payment), but too often then not, they would flake out after 1-2 days of waiting. I like to be true to my word of selling it to the who first came forward but after too many flakes I changed it up. Now when someone contacts me for an item that is attracting attention from more than 1 person. I will tell them both, first person to pay gets it... but then I feel a little bad and will generally give the buyer1 a few hours before accepting/requesting payment from buyer2. I've noticed when someone asks me for a group price on most or all of what I'm selling (with shipping), 0 out of 5 times they will follow through :p. I've also noticed when someone posts in your thread and does not PM you, they're less likely to actually go through with the purchase. Moral of the story: Do what's right for you, sell to the first buyer you feel will pay you. Unless I'm the 2nd buyer, then sell to me at a reduced rate. cheers, Anthony
  5. $5 + I figure $12 is about right. so: $17usd if it's less I'll refund the difference.
  6. keep it up, nice work! question.. how do those 3-point rear belts work? they look retractable. Where is the top point mounted?
  7. passenger door finisher, sold. thanks.
  8. I did neither. I was thinking about in the door (on the inside of exterior facing sheet)...but heard too many people talk about the stuff falling off. I also thought about the interior panel but was worried about the door card fitment. would be easy to get to in the future if I change my mind.. but it's ok for now. let me know if you end up doing one or the other.
  9. thanks but I think I'm more confused now Simeon are you suggesting that I use the vac advance signal from the brake booster hose, check pressure with a gauge, then program the 123 distributor taking the difference in to consideration? currently my only vacuum source is the brake booster hose. thanks again.
  10. Ok, so I think I'm going to tap all 4 runners, underneath....since the resident experts are saying 4 is better than 1. My car in under a tarp in the corner of the garage for the winter.. but I'd like to prep for spring. Any advice on the piping setup? and especially any suggestions for shops to buy the fittings/connectors... having problems with google and 3.5mm stuff. Here's a mock up (I made), to show you guys for your advice/feedback. Getting a shopping list together. 4x 3.5mm barb / 1/8 NPT thread - elbow 1x 3.5mm barb / 3.5mm barb - elbow 3x 3.5mm - Tee 3.5mm ID hose 1x anti-pulse valve (purchased already) 18x spring clamps ...also possible a tee with a vac gauge. as always.. THANKS SO MUCH! Anthony
  11. thanks. I had previously bought a MK1 duckbill which I was going to modify to use... that was before I discovered the car needed a lot of work. sold it I also bought a IE air dam, but not sold on it... so it's not installed. I debating this one... but don't want to spend more unless I'm going to install it. it looks good in photos but things aren't always as they seem for these things.
  12. For those who have purchased and installed.. post some large photos up to help those of us on the fence.
  13. I check out every set you put for sale...you always have nice inventory. I'm just waiting for the spring, where I can see what type of bracket I could fab before buying. I'm going to buy a crappy set from the a local shop, as a test set. Then return them and buy a quality pair (hopefully from you). good luck with sales! Anthony
  14. Ya, I remember finding the prices ridiculous. I used some 20ga stainless wire "trail marker." I'm not sure if there were different ratings but I'm living dangerously and took the chance. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/stainless-steel-wire-0750127p.html#srp $4.99cad is like $0.23usd I assume it's available in Outdoor sporting good shops in US or something.