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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

MildSeven

Kugelfischer
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About MildSeven

  • Birthday 04/08/1981

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  • Website URL https://soundcloud.com/guger

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Montreal, Canada
  • Interests Ladies

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Firming Up The Rear Bench (springs)

    Thanks for jogging my memory... I forgot there were metal straps running below the springs, already. I should have looked at my (or a) frame.
  2. Firming Up The Rear Bench (springs)

    thanks for the replies, guys. Hmmmm, I like this idea... I could buy some seat belt webbing and loop it around the the front and back part of the frame and sow it.
  3. I used search, maybe my terms weren't good but no relevant results, so I'm posting. Hi I ordered, some rear seat covers + foam kit from Aardvark (and also the upper, back portion of the bench). I have yet to pick it up from the I find the lower, base portion, very, very springy... I mean they are springs, so it makes sense. Is there a way to firm up the springs so they travel less? I found that when I sit on them, I sink all the way in, plus they're bouncy. I would assume adding additional foam above them but that might give me issues installing the new covers. What if I install some foam "buffers" between each spring to keep them from compressing fully? Has anyone been down this road.ideas? Thanks, Anthony
  4. friends ..... and their mechanical skills

    I made this one from a photo I took the other day.
  5. Battery Cable Through Firewall

    The battery relocation was done by the previous on my car, with the wire passing through the firewall. When I disassembled the car for restoration, I noticed that the hole used for the battery cable looked like a factory hole and not drilled. I'll dig thought my disassembly pics to see what I can find. EDIT: found a photo. It was to the left of the steering column. Don't mind the notes
  6. Membership stickers

    got them yesterday. thanks Steve!
  7. sold to HO2. ...with the amount of interest I go maybe I priced too low
  8. $239usd + shipping I'm selling a customized / modified 2000ti air box + custom velocity stacks. It works with Weber DCOEs. This kit was installed on my 2002 when I purchased it (with Weber 45DCOEs). I will also sell my Weber 45DCOE The air box was modified to work with a K&N cone filter which is angled down in the engine compartment to seek out some cooler air. The "velocity stacks" (adapters) are made out of stainless steal. You would have to drill 2 holes on the driver's side fender to mount the bracket. The bracket + 2 rubber buffers are included. The air box housing is in decent condition, a sand + coat of paint would make it look great again. While taking the photos I noticed 1 of the rubber boots had some cracks in it (photo 7, where my finger is). photo of airbox installed (previous owner) here are a whole bunch of photos...
  9. Membership stickers

    Thanks, not in a rush... just want to rep this great site :p.
  10. Membership stickers

    Hi Steve, what address do you have listed for me? Still haven't received them... Thanks, Anthony
  11. HELP: Getting it going. Timing, Weber DCOE

    Thanks for the detailed reply Simeon I bought an advance timing light last summer and used it to find TDC after initially setting it with the led. If memory serves me well it was off 3 degrees. I think I will recheck my work this weekend. I came up with that curve by looking at the Tii curve for a base...then took some info (posts) from people similar setups. I feel like this is something I won't be able to get right with my "ass dyno." The rep from redline provided me this curve yesterday but I haven't tried it yet. I'll screw around with this and see where it takes me.
  12. Rear Bench Skin (oem vinyl)

    I'm selling the (original) Black Vinyl "skin" for the lower portion of the rear bench. I believe it is from a '76. In good condition. No visible rips or cracks. I will remove the vinyl shortly. I figure it will be about $20 shipping to US.
  13. It's Japanese market: Panasonic VX5500 it came with the car... so I can't take full credit for it
  14. HELP: Getting it going. Timing, Weber DCOE

    Thanks for the replies! I tried 3/4 with sync meter (can't get at #3 because of brake booster) but the carbs are "new" bought them last year and haven't used them yet because of issues. In the first video, the idle jet was the 60F8 and it would not run and race up when I put the sync meter in. I noticed the 60F8 I had (part of redline kit) had 2 air orifices instead of 1, that might have caused the issue (too much air). The will be sending me the proper 60F8 idle jet. I think I could go down lower than 2 turns out. Need to play around with it a little more. You are suggesting screwing the idle mix screw in more, to reduce the fuel? Yes it's plugged, just to make sure, I wanted to eliminate it as a potential vac leak. What brought brought me up to the 60F8 is that I had 50F8 in the (unmatched) Italian carbs and they worked fine but when I put them in the new (Spanish) carbs, I couldn't get it to idle, similar to the video above with the 60F8. I don't have vac leak, the carbs are sync'ed but maybe my timing isn't perfect. I have the 123 ignition... I went through a lot of posts to come up with my what I entered, here's my advance curve from the app: Once I receive the 60F8 with 1 air orifice, I will try them again. I have 10:1, 292cam. Thanks again everyone, Anthony
  15. HELP: Getting it going. Timing, Weber DCOE

    SOOOOOOoooooooooooo... After living most of the summer with my old unmatched Italian DCOEs, I decided to once again try the "new" Spanish DCOEs. I followed the advice of Redline and purchased the low speed jet pac.He told me to start with a 60F8 as my idle jet instead of my old 50F8. I also put a 000 exhaust jet. I tried that but same story. I unscrewed the idle screws a fair amount and noticed that i was able to idle a bit better... so I jumped up to the 65F8. I was finally able to sync the carbs and idle well. I adjusted the idle mix screws which ended up about 2 turns out, which indicates that i should go to 70F8, right? Isn't that a bit big? What do you guys think?