Blogs and Articles

Showing articles and blog entries posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Blackwhiteandblue

    Temp Gauge location

    On modern EFI BMW's (E30, E36, and E46 that I know of, I don't get more modern than that) the sensor that kicks on the fan is in the radiator while the sensor that reports to the gauge is in the head. Food for thought...
  3. Nice bits here, many are very clever too. I am not ready for them just yet but will explore when I am. Thanks for making this happen! Jason
  4. Yesterday
  5. joshinthebox

    Body work complete

    Incredible work! Doing the exact same thing to mine and should be primered within the month hopefully! Keep up the good work!
  6. evil02

    Questioning the path forward

    Stay the course, it's already in the car. If you need more power, boost it.
  7. There are at least 5 pictures of Vern in the October 2018 Roundel Pittsburgh Oktoberfest coverage. The most prominent ones are for the Concours. As some of you will recall, Vern took 2nd in the Classic Super Clean Class.
  8. Last week
  9. I am a big data entrepreneur in real life, so this has got me thinking about the data coming from the engine and how its interpretation results in the adjustment to the air valve and the injectors. I have read the manual. The first time I was was completely sober, along with the second and third time... the fourth time... not so much. It seemed to sink in the fourth time around a lot more. The way that this system allegedly manufactures the digital version of real-life parts of a carburated system is fascinating, like a choke, accelerator pump, the prime you get when you set the choke. It is also interesting how it accommodates physical anomalies in the engine as it warms. I haven't quite got my head around the learning algorithm, and how it can be dialed in, overlays etc... I think I may need to dust off a big Bordeau that I have been holding onto for the past 15 years and load up on a nice rib steak from my favourite meat shop (no offence to the vegans of which there are a lot in Vancouver) and settle in. I am about to re-do my heater box, and since the cooling system is open, I think I will drill and tap the housing. The cooling sensor that comes with it is 3/8 NPT, with adapters to 1/2 inch if needed. A long time ago I got the 11mm manifold bots from Ireland engineering, which I will use when I reinstall the manifold and the coolant diverter. Pictures to come, but much more likely a video, I have felt that the GoPro in my house has been underutilized. Sniper 2BBL EFI Manual.pdf
  10. Dudeland

    F'it

    I will do for sure.
  11. 2002VT

    Wing work (part 2)

    Im all set. Just got a set. But that other gent may be interested! Thank you! We ended up fabbing one side. You’d never know it wasn’t factory.
  12. A little bit of both. All of it will be ground down to be flush for final product. It’s good to see the cancer disappear.
  13. I realize that it has been quiet lately. Progress has been pretty slow on the car, mainly because I've been swamped with school. I have also been waiting for my fabricator to clear some space in his garage to tackle the projects I have coming up. However parts have been steadily trickling in, and I'm hoping to get cracking in the next few weeks. As always, maybe the next post will be more eventful, but here's what I have for you now. I purchased a right rear shock tower from Restoration Design. After some probing, it looks like this is the only full piece that needs to be replaced in the rear. The rest can be safely patched. At least that's the hope, as with any rust there is always more than you think. So I may be ordering even more sheet metal here shortly if things go wrong. But regardless, this is in and will be grafted into the car soon. I also noted that I have been having cooling issues. Well, this should solve that. I purchased a Scirocco style radiator from JEGS that has a considerably thicker core. It has about the same dimensions as the current radiator otherwise, but there will be some minor duct work, a considerably larger/more powerful fan, and obviously the added... girth. I also picked up a Mishimoto oil cooler, as well as the stock E30 325is oil filter housing/cooler lines. This is more of an insurance policy, but I figure this car needs all the help it can get. After speaking to @tonytony002, he gave me some valuable advice on how to properly cool the M20 down. I'll be running a 13 inch pusher fan, a lower temperature thermostat, and the fan will be triggered at the thermostat housing. That should do the trick. This will all be tied into a new tube front end. 2002s require bracing up front when they are cut for M20 swaps. This was never done, so the car lacks some structural rigidity. The new tube front end will add the rigidity back in, as well as give cleaner mounting points for the radiator and oil cooler. Finally, some damage report. I had an RS hex cap fly off on the freeway the other day. Somehow, beyond all human understanding, the waffle stuck on the wheel for 30 miles. I also had the passenger side knee trim fall off. I still have the trim, but it looks like the clips are just old and failed. So I have to order some new clips to get that on now. Neither of these are huge deals, but it's a bummer to have the car suddenly look so shabby. The above is the last known photo of that hex cap, before it peaced out. There has been some interior progress as well. Keep in mind, things get worse before they get better... I think. So far mostly everyone has not liked this choice at all. I'm certainly not expecting anyone here to like this decision either, but bare with me. I do have my reasons. I dyed my rear seats over the weekend. You may remember that they were this very odd green/brown combination. Let me start by stressing, this was not factory. Someone redid these seats at some point during the car's lifetime. They also never intended to rock the green vinyl, I'm not 100% sure what the story was but there are obvious signs that they used the green vinyl to reupholster the seat and then dyed it a matching saddle brown. Areas that did not get direct sunlight still had some of the brown dye showing. Highlighted there you can see traces of brown dye, faded out over the years. A lot of people moaned that this was "very 70s" and I should have kept it. It is also "very ugly". In order to dye the rear bench, I did some research and discovered SEM marine vinyl dye would do the trick. I have found other 2002 owners who have done this with great results, and I figured if it's good enough to restore seats on a boat, it's good enough for a non-functional rear seat in a 2002. This is not spray paint, but specific product for this purpose. I do have to stress that the back seat in my 2002 will never have passengers. It's purely for aesthetics at this point, I have the seat belts tucked under the seat and any weight over the rear like that would likely cause the car to rub. There is also a chance the back seat will be removed entirely in the future, but more on that later. Bad picture, but the vinyl prep was key in all this as well. Cleaned and softened the vinyl for dye. I love the results. It actually needs another coat, but I ran out of dye before I could finish. It should be in today, so I'll be giving the whole rear bench another coat and that will finish off any light spots. The black doesn't rub off when you touch it, and shows very nicely. You can see some light spots that need touch up here. I hate preemptively defending my decision on this, but I have gotten a lot of shit for doing this. For some reason, a lot of people loved the green and brown. I really felt like I was sitting in a circus tent, and it was by far my least favorite part of the interior. Sahara Beige has grown on me quite a bit, but no amount of time would help me come to terms with the baby poop green rear seat. The next big step will be to replace the red carpet (which is actually much grosser then it looks) with a black carpet. I like black interiors, and that will drastically help my level of happiness when driving the car. Sounds stupid, but it is what it is. The black and red coco mats can stay though. This leads me into part two of where I will likely catch more shit. Bare with me, I promise I'm not going crazy, there is a method to my madness. I purchased another driver's seat. I love the period correct look and feel of the Recaros I have, and I intend to have them reupholstered. Both of them. However I also need to refoam, and repair the drivers seat. In the meantime, I wanted to try a more canyon carving friendly approach. I purchased a Car Make Corn's bucket seat, something normally intended for a Miata, and I intend to put it in the driver's position. I chose this particular seat for a few reasons. I love the Car Make Corn's shop in Japan, it's such a cool place in general, and they put out some quality products. I contacted Kadin from CMC USA and he helped me source this seat. I actually picked it up at this year's JCCS, pulling it from a car he sponsors. I also find the seat to be incredibly comfortable. I have a really bad lower back, and for whatever reason the CMC seat just fits me right. This is just something I am experimenting with, the Recaros will make another appearance in the future when they are all reupholstered and ready to go in. The seat in the Miata I removed it from at JCCS. Nothing like driving from Phoenix to Long Beach and back to Phoenix in the same day, just to buy a seat! This gives you a very vague idea of how it might look in my 2002. Obviously pre-bench dye. So there it is. A bucket seat so I don't flop around in the car, and a black rear bench. I'm looking at carpeting options right now, but I'll be pulling and trashing the red carpet soon. I'll be talking to another shop about the trunk rust repair this week, and hopefully getting the ball rolling on that soon. After that, suspension refresh, cooling system refresh and so on. Bare with me, because I know not all of these are popular decisions, buuuuut I promise I haven't lost sight of the end goal. Dying the rear seat and the CMC bucket are stop gaps, things to make me more comfortable and happy in the short term, while the long term plans flesh out. This is a bit of a low point after that video, but it'll all come together.
  14. vacca rabite

    Megasquirt EFI (and EDIS) for the BMW 2002 - Part 1

    I have Microsquirt set up on my 914. In your write-up you mentioned needing an additional module for running idle control. This is not correct (well at elast not for Microsquirt II, which is all my experience is with) You can run a two or three wire IAC through Microsquirt without an additional module. I did it with a 3 wire unit out of a Hyundia. The wiring is pretty simple. Power goes to your fuse block (I'm using the same 6 port panel you are, a solid choice!), one of the opener wires goes to ground through a 40 ohm resistor, and the other goes to the Microsqurt ECU (off hand I cant remember the position on the AMPSeal plug). It works like a charm and is very easy to fine tune through TunerStudio. While the Microsquirt is great for the "open" engine bay in a 914, I tend to think a MS2 box is better suited for a more traditional car like the 2002, since you can locate the ECU in the cabin or in a dry space in the engine bay. That said, I have a second Microsquirt ECU and will eventually put it in my 2002. Its AMAZING how much nicer the 914 is to drive then it was when I had carbs on it. Just turn the key and drive. Zach
  15. adawil2002

    Spotted!

    Jim Gerock and I were spotted by Eric Carlson on I-95 South in Northern Virginia on our way to the '02 Group's 50th Anniversary of the 2002 Fall Drive in Dobson, NC.
  16. mlytle

    Vintage Car Racing in a ski resort - Snowmass Colorado

    pretty venue. but..holy crap that couse is scary. stone walls, metal guardrails, barricades, vertical drop offs on the inside of turns, trees, no runoff, etc. i get that it is vintage racing, so maybe 7/10's effort. even at that level it is scary. I have been racing for many years, but would happily just spectate at that event....
  17. Earlier
  18. kaptanoglu

    320i Rear Drums Upgrade

    A few notes from having done this this weekend with a kit from Ireland Engineering. First, I am generally willing to pay up for new parts to avoid having to go to the junkyard, so I got the prefabbed kit - http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02bbk06.html While I have had good luck with IE in the past, I was a bit disappointed with the generic pads that were included and really, really disappointed that they didn't get the hardware in the box (They did get them here the next week). After some searching around (including here on the forum), I ended up ordering some RS4s (and fronts, too) from Porterfield (rear for 250mm - https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=4013) (front for tii - https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/product_info.php?productID=3506) Motivated by a desire for no rust behind the Panasports, I opted to paint the drums as well, using Rustoleum flat BBQ paint. While not necessary, I masked off the center circle where it will meet with the wheel (It just seemed correct to do it that way). A couple quick things I learned the hard way: The pins for the retainer clips, on my car at least, needed to go in before the backing plate was mounted (or, in my case, remounted) Like others (me, being me, I discovered others after I battled this myself), I had to file the inside of the e-brake notch to get the drum over the pads. With all the power stuff I have, this was done manually, and after 30+ years of driving a desk, my arms were not fully prepared. [pic - filed notch with unaltered one for comparison]. I was nervous about overdoing it with the file and took them on and off a ton of times. A tip as a result - a 90 degree pick is a great way to get the various springs off (and the retainer springs back on). I figured this out after about 1000 times using lesser means. A couple things a learned the easy way: Impact gun > breaker bar (https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2763-22). Getting the castle nut off the rears was no problem. Also handy for rotor retraining bolts in the front. Impact socket > regular socket (https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2668-20). Very handy for caliper bolts. You can always use another torque wrench [Armstrong 400 ft-lb 3/4" drive from a pawn shop - free to loan to any Texas people (or others in the neighborhood] I am going to drive a couple days and readjust the rears after they bed in a bit better, but so far, so good.
  19. On my way to see TESORO in Greer, South Carolina!
  20. A beautiful illustration of DERBY done by @petersartisticways all the way from the UK!
  21. Icon Display at the BMWCCA Foundation. What a great visit to the BMW Car Club of America Foundation in South Carolina! Check it out if you are close or passing through! They have a wonderful exhibition of some vintage “icons”on display for the 50th anniversary of the 2002! Of course the first thing I do when I see TESORO is detail him up! 🤦‍♀️😉
  22. dasfrogger

    RGB Kentucky Ridge Run 2018

    Glad you could make it! it was great to see you!
  23. dhr.vdw

    She's got a nose!

    Thanks! Much appreciated.
  24. benzintinte

    Filmed!

    Just outside of the Carefree, AZ area! Lot's of beautiful desert scenes to film in up there.
  25. jgerock

    "factory color" shirts recap

    My shirts arrived yesterday👍
  26. Ahhhh..... Autumn.... the time of year when your engine keeps you warm on those spectacular spirited drives! 🍂🍁🍂 pic 🍁 pic by local car photographer Joel Flores pic
  27. skyking96w

    Tires for OEM13" Rims

    Pirelli is making the CN-36 again, with more modern rubber, in 185/70VR13 and other sizes. About $160 plus tax from Longstone Tyres in the UK, and $155 from Performance Plus tires in the US.
  1. Load more activity