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  3. At first I thought he was breaking the sound barrier at 120 mph but took a second look and realized Derby has a km/h speedo. LOL!! Glad he's back up and running again!😊
  4. Last week
  5. I would also like to find this information. Anyone have a quick link to it or similar info?
  6. 3d printed, theres a forum post on this upgrade where the guy uploaded the stl file
  7. It changes so much with lighting and camera settings. The body shop looked up the formulation. Its still in the database
  8. This past weekend was another work weekend on the BMW down in Virginia. As usual, it poured. There was thunder and lightning and flood warnings. Almost every time I go to work on the car during the spring summer and fall, it has been pouring, and I'm driving 200 miles from York PA to Charles City VA. Regardless, considerable work got completed. Previously I had cut out and welded in a new spare tire well. This past weekend I was working on the other side, taking care of the gas tank surround. I found lots of thick bondo where someone had gooped it in hoping to hide the rust issues this car has. Lots of drilled out spot welds later, the rusty panel was cut free and I could start cleaning up the remaining flanges. My plan was to use the original spot weld locations for rosette welds. Test fitting the new panel from Wolf could now start. This panel needed less fitting then others I have done, but it still took me several hours to get it fitting tight like it should be. This pic is from early in the process, and you can see just how much further the panel needs to come up. The next few pics show fitment getting much closer! I was very happy with how exact I was able to get my butts to line up where I retained the original sheet metal and cut away from the new panel. Where the shipping tie down was cut away, I also welded a patch there after the new panel was in, but I think I forgot to get pics of that, so there is still a rectangle on the fender that is open in these pics. Now I've sprayed down some 3M weld through primer and gotten the new panel all clamped in. This was as far as I got the first day, but I was very content with it! It takes me 7 hours what my friend does in 3-4, but its fitting well and ready to get burned in. Next day I broke out the MIG and went to town. I welded in the panel using mostly rosettes as planned, but also a few seam welds where it made sense. I learned again (and again) that retired running shoes, while comfortable, don't stop weld splatter. Usually I remember to bring boots, but I forgot them this weekend. Such is life. Then I had to go and do more panel fitment to get the new panel to line up with all the old spot welds behind the rear bumper. This took more effort then I anticipated, but my favorite sheet metal tools (a large ball peen hammer and a rail-road spike) worked wonders here. Yes, at my friends shop I have access to all his fancy metal working hammers and dollies and I use a ball peen and a RR spike. Don't judge me. Hit them with the 3M Weld through, burned in some rosettes and ground them down. I also went back over the spare tire well and added some weld to close all the gaps I found when I looked closely at it. I was rushing last time and the work showed. Now it looks MUCH nicer. Finally, I laid in the gas tank for test fitting and it fit perfect, just as it should. At this point I ran out of time. The welding and cleanup was done, but wanted to do metal prep and spray some epoxy over all the new clean sheet metal. That did not happen. Which only means I'll have some surface rust to clean off the next time I get down there, and I'll spray it then. At this point all the structural rust in the trunk has been resolved. I only have 2 more structural areas to fix, as well as some cosmetic issues, and then all the rust repair will be complete. I'm hoping to do the drivers side rocker the next time I'm down there (july?) which will be the big task. The pass side rocker is the other structural fix, but it will be a much easier cut and weld job. Thanks for reading, and until next time... Zach
  9. Ken


    These fuel cells are custom and made exclusively for us at 2002 Underground. I can send you more information if you are interested.
  10. Scottjeffrey


    I'll say!
  11. There is an extensive thread on the evolution of the M10 valve cover but I’m not sure how to find it
  12. psky

    Mats / Seats

    I ordered a set of Coco mats from cocomats.com. Prior to processing my order they contacted me and said they wanted to send me paper templates of each mat to ensure there were no shape or size issues. Cool. I received the templates in the mail and was instructed to make adjustments if necessary and return the templates. I was wondering how well the mats would fit given I trimmed down the templates by what I felt was a substantial amount. Patrick at Midnight Motorsport reminded me my car was originally an automati c and that the templates are probably for a standard. Ohhh... righhhht, got it. I received the mats a few weeks ago and they fit pretty good. The E21 Recaros I have are in good condition. I dropped them off at the shop when I went to test fit the mats. I bought them from a local double02 owner a few years ago. Nothing uniquely distinctive, but I think they'll look bad ass once installed. The rear seat was also bought from the same guy who sold me the fronts. It doesn't match the fronts as it is perforated and the fronts are smooth.
  13. Earlier
  14. Looks like Derby is acquiring museum status just like Tesoro!!!😊👍
  15. steve k.

    Magnum Opus

    Looks amaizing. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
  16. Good advice Thanks. I am using weld through at the weld, and epoxy primer elsewhere. I understand the seam sealer, though there was a foam strip where the fender slots in. Regarding your comment-- I think I will forget the foam strip and do it all up with the 3m Seam sealer, foam equals moisture absorption.
  17. It was much more of a pain than anticipated to get all the brake plumbing sorted and bleed but it's behind me now. The 2402 now sits on eibach lowering springs. the rear looks right, the front still sits a little high for my liking. The recent activity has been to get the car wired and fuel system complete. The wiring started out quite unruly... I have spent quite a bit of time routing and re-routing with many many zip ties. The acrylic panel will mount in the glovebox area. It will give good access to the relays, fuses and a good place to mount my OBD port. There will be many many more hours spent integrating the Speedway harness with the ECM. Finally on to fuel system. The pump is mounted and almost all my plumbing supplies have arrived.
  18. Always great to see a new idea. personally I’ve been on the 123 for a number of years without incident, that is incident related to 123. Good luck with the Summit
  19. This is so cool and something I’ve considered as well but have been unwilling to be the guinea pig on. I look forward to following your progress!
  20. Agreed, very well done. Turned out gorgeous. Look very period correct.
  21. Having spent some time sorting out my ignition, I was pretty happy with how my car is running. The idle is a lot more stable than it was before but I can still detect a slight miss fire occasionally. Coincidentally to finishing the ignition I noted that I had a problem with the water choke on my 32/36. This was normally as regular as clockwork but for some reason had stopped engaging. I took the air cleaner off to watch the operation of the choke and while I was there I looked down into the primary choke. When the throttle was opened a fine mist of fuel was present as the engines vacuum pulls the fuel from the auxiliary venturi in the primary along with the output of the pump jet (this was a nice healthy squirt when seen with the engine off). When the throttle was returned to idle, the visible mist disappeared as the engine is now running from the idle jets but periodically a big drip of petrol would fall from the auxiliary venturi and drop on the back of the closed throttle plate. Looking at the carb in general there was some seepage from the top cover so, along with the choke issue, I figured this would be a good time to pull it for a rebuild. I had previously rebuilt the carb about 3-4 years ago and put in new jets to match CD's jet prescription. At the time I noted that the base flange was a little warped but I didn't do anything to correct it as I wasn't convinced I was going to keep the carb then. I do have a pair of Solex PHH carbs, manifolds and most of the linkage necessary to fit. I had been holding off, awaiting a rebuild of my engine but now I am cooling on the idea of the side drafts. Most of my driving is around town, with pretty low speed limits common (60km/hr - approx 40mph). At this speed, I find that the car in its current state of tune seems to sit at this speed in 4th somewhere between idle and the throttle barely open - just at transition. This makes it a little bit annoying to drive - I often find myself rolling along in 3rd gear just to get the revs up and get off the idle circuit. If I rarely use anything other than the single 32mm choke then why would I move to 4 x 34mm chokes? I might reconsider that depending upon how far I go with an engine rebuild. I will have 9.5:1 compression ratio pistons (I have NOS that I picked up off eBay for a steal!) and the engine is already fitted with a 292 cam following a head rebuild a few years back. I will stick with the 32/36 for now and take a view on it when I have the new engine fitted. My carb is actually a Spanish 'Bressel' licensed copy of the 32/36 which dates it as pretty old since this was made at the factory in Spain that Weber now use to make carbs. The carb is simple to pull, though you need some patience and long fingers to get at the nuts past the various obstructing hoses. Once the carb is off, it is straight forward to strip - removing the top cover first. I checked the float level first and this seemed OK. I had been confused slightly as to whether I had previously set it at 41mm (the factory figure) or 40mm (as quoted by CD) - I appeared to have picked the factory figure as this was pretty much bang on 41mm. Subsequently I worked out that the 40mm CD quotes includes an allowance for the gasket. I needed to slightly tweak the height of each float so that they are perfectly level (there was a hairs difference between the two) but I will need to look elsewhere for any internal flooding issues. I swapped the needle valve even though the one in place had no visible wear. I was already committed to using parts from the rebuild kit, so I may as well do the whole thing while i am there. The auxiliary venturis were slightly loose in their slots and could be jiggled slightly. From what I have read, this is likely to be the cause of my problems. I can't remember how loose they were last time I rebuilt it but I don't remember reading any special advice beyond making sure I got them the right way around and checking that the feed tube in the centre had its slot facing the bottom as they have been known to rotate. The bottom of their housing slots had some 'bright' wear visible, so it looks like they have been vibrating in their slots for a while. The body of the carburettor was sanded flat using #80 paper held on a sheet of glass. This took a while to get all of the warp out (I wonder if the carb had been overheated in the past, I think the warp contributes to the loose venturis). Note: I actually did this before disassembling completely as, depending upon how effective it was, I would have junked the carb if it didn't work. Having got the base flange flat, it makes the body a better base for the rest of the rebuild. I took the rest of the carb apart, including the throttle shafts. I bought replacement bushes as there was also a little play in the bushes and these are another source of vacuum leaks. The shafts had the linkage removed from the outside and the screws were carefully undone. Since they had been previously peened with a chisel to prevent loosening, I was able to back the screws out carefully to allow their reuse. Other advice is to grind the projecting ends of the screws with a point in a die grinder but this seemed too risky if I could get them out without destroying them. Once the shafts and bushes were removed the body and the top were cleaned with carb cleaner, scotchbrite and a small wire brush. All of the passages were flushed with carb cleaner and then blown out with compressed air. When reassembling, I first needed to address the loose auxiliary venturis. There seems to be a number of techniques to resolve, including staking with a centre punch and even gluing with epoxy. I chose to add shims to the blank ends to push the open ends up tight against the corresponding passage in the carb body. I cut the shims from a soft drink can as the aluminium is thin enough that multiple layers can be used to dial in the thickness exactly. I followed this up with a single touch with a centre punch to stake everything in place. The venturis needed to be carefully aligned and pushed into place, definitely no wobble so they should be much better. The problem with the choke seemed to be related to the choke diaphragm and its actuator rod. For some reason the whole rod in mine had been replaced with a similar but different part which was incomplete. Someone had previously ground a slot into the rod, within which the operating lever that controls the stepped cam and butterflies runs. This had subsequently worn further and instead of pulling the choke butterflies open with engine vacuum the operating lever had wedged on the rod, binding the whole linkage up. I did a quick examination of the local Australian Weber parts specialist (http://www.weberperformance.com.au) who don't stock the choke diaphragm / rod assembly. I had to order one from the States. Since this would leave my car stranded for a week or so while I await delivery from Pierce Manifolds, I decided to have a go at a repair. Part of the issue is that the rod on this diaphragm is much thinner than the correct part so this allows the rod to be displaced away from the choke operating lever as it is unsupported within the housing. To minimise this, I added a small section of rubber hose at the end that the rod can run in and it would keep centred. I rotated the rod, relative to the diaphragm, so that there was more steel facing the front where it meets the operating lever. I then filed a new groove into the rod, ensuring that there is a nice hard edge for the operating lever to act against when the diaphragm pulls the rod forwards. The small vacuum passage on the body was also blocked, so I cleared this out as well. There are two styles of choke pull down diaphragm for different 32/36, the one with the thin rod which, when complete, has a couple of washers and a spring retained by an 'e' clip which act upon the choke linkage and the solid rod style where the linkage runs in a machined slot. I ordered a solid rod diaphragm from Pierce Manifolds before removing the choke body from the carb in situ to swap the rod. This time I didn't touch the coolant pipes, I just removed the three clamping screws and pulled the water choke and spring body clear of the choke body. I struggled to find a lot of information regarding adjustment for the choke pull down via the adjustment screw at the end of the diaphragm. Similar style chokes on different carbs are adjusted based upon setting a given size opening in the choke plates when the vacuum is strongest at idle. After fishing around on several old Ford websites I found out that the opening should be 7mm and this is measured by levering the diaphragm backwards up against the adjustment screw. This is done after refitting the choke body to the carb but not the water choke / spring body to allow access to the diaphragm rod. Set the choke by opening the throttle and manually shutting the choke plates (no choke spring fitted to close them for you). You then lever with a screw driver the diaphragm rod towards the back of the car and up to the stop. The choke plates will pop open to give a 7mm gap. In my case, it was a few millimetres wider so I removed the diaphram end screw and screwed the adjustment screw in a few turns before checking again. Refit the water choke / spring and adjust the rotation of the choke plates and then check the fast idle screw setting and your done. When the car is first started, the choke plates are tightly shut. Once the engine fires and develops a vacuum, this pulls the diaphragm and opens the plates to the 7mm position to prevent the engine from being over choked. 7mm drill in position to measure plate opening when diaphragm is levered towards the rear of the car and up against the adjustment screw. The original 'thin rod' diaphragm Comparison with new 'thick rod' diaphragm Auxiliary venturi shimmed with Pepsi can and staked with a single centre punch 'dot' 'Bressol' licensed from Weber
  22. Last year, through a friend, I had the pleasure of meeting Robert Egger, the creative genius behind Specialized Bicycles. He was an awesome guy, and I think this article describes him perfectly... https://rouleur.cc/editorial/egger-specialized-fun-creative-director/ Besides us both having an industrial design background, there was another common thread between us... BMW 02 ownership! Robert had recently completed his project car and I got the chance to get a look at it up close. He went for a more "race" inspired look but intended the car to be his commuter vehicle into the Specialized office. He considered other options - a Ford Focus RS or a Toyota Prius, but ultimately decided he wanted to build something unique for himself. He said he was surprised by how many "young kids" in the office were interested in the car when he drove it in for the first time. The car was also displayed at the Specialized tent in 2017(?) to launch a new Stumpjumper at the Sea Otter Classic. The car also showed up last summer at one of the Canepa Cars & Coffee events in Scotts Valley, CA. Robert has an amazing home and workshop, so completed most of the restoration work himself. I'm forgetting what exact year car he started with, but maybe someone on the forum can sleuth it from the photos. He wanted the interior to be stripped down and race inspired. The paint finish on the roll cage and floor pan is better than most have on the exterior! There was a story behind the tartan insert fabric as well, and he brought it home from a trip specifically for this build. It's also used beautifully in the trunk area. No back seats, but cool little "cubbies" he fabricated himself... An interesting solution to making those cute little bullet mirrors actually functional... Yup... when you're Robert friggin' Egger, you can even put your name on the valve cover... A very unique/bold/cool build. I hope it inspires all of you as much as it did me! Who wouldn't love to roll up to work in this?!!!
  23. Having put up with a succession of worn distributors, I enquired about the cost of rebuilding my distributor with a local Adelaide specialist. After being quoted $650 AUD to rebuild, I took this as a clear sign that I needed to get a 123 Tune distributor as this was exactly how much I had been quoted for a 123 Tune by the Australian distributor for one. Entirely coincidentally, 'The Great 123 Group Buy of 2016' was on and despite getting a haircut on a few foreign currency conversions, I still came out about $200 AUD ahead. Nice work @Captain Manly! The distributor arrived in good time from the Netherlands and I got around to installing it. Don't do what I did and actually read the instructions. I hadn't closely followed the instructions with regard to rotating the distributor in the correct direction to find the point when the light comes on relative to the normal direction of rotation. It seems that this actually informs the distributor whether it is is a clockwise or anticlockwise rotating distributor. I think I may have also needed to enter the factory PIN of 1234 as well. Suffice it to say that it was only when Imfollowed the instructions and stopped thinking for myself did I get it started. The mechanical installation was straight forward after finding TDC for number 1 cylinder. Electrically it was slightly more complex as my car was fitted with a Summit Racing Multi-Spark CDI ignition (See https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/entry/524-ignition-investment-updated/) . This had been installed without any permanent wiring alterations so that I could easily revert to standard points and condenser by swapping a few connectors over at the side of the road. I wanted to maintain this ethos with the 123 so I could ditch the CDI or the 123, if necessary in a road side situation. My installation was also further complicated by having an MSD external tachometer adapter installed in the ignition wiring as the tachometer output of the CDI would not drive my tachometer. Ordinarily I would have obtained a multi-way weatherpac plug coupler and prepared two looms to connect between the 123, the CDI and the cars own wiring but keeping it all reverseable meant finding another way of terminating the wiring. The wiring scheme I came up with at the time took advantage of the multiple connections already in place and added extra using piggyback connectors to allow three wires to be connected at a single point in a manner that allows disassembly. Here is a wiring diagram altered from the MSD / Pertronix diagram. I have marked on the tacho adapter, the additional ground wire that the 123 has and where the piggyback connectors are used to allow three way connections at those points. The MSD tacho adapter basically has two leads (red and white), each of which have two Faston connector terminals crimped on from the factory. I also have a diode wired into the white wire into the MSD. This came with the tacho adapter and i think is to protect the ignition box from the voltage spikes on the white wire from the adaptor damaging the ignition box. Installing the the wiring and crimped terminations, I took the opportunity to install some heat shrink tubing over the wiring as it leaves the 123. I undid the nicely specified cable gland and installed the tubing underneath to properly finish the cable entry. I crimped on the piggyback terminals to the red and black and a 6mm ring for the blue ground wire to go under the coil mounting screw. Each one was treated to additional strain relief using more heat shrink tube. The wiring is installed in in a single location above the coil in the engine baywhere it can be returned to a previous configuration at short notice. Note the three connections using the piggyback terminals and the diode installed into the white wire (in the black heat shrink at the blue terminal). Short sections of plastic hose were added over the piggyback connectors to help strain relieve and insulate from shorting out. Here are my initial curves, not final but based on the max advance I want to run and a reasonable initial advance. I also added a point at 25 degrees BTDC at 2,000rpm to allow me to dynamically set the timing to the ball. hh If you have any questions then let me know.
  24. I had bought a pair of Solex 40PHH carbs a number of years ago which did a great job of gathering dust on my garage shelf. As is typical with me, I often seem to do things the hard way. Not because I am some kind of perfectionist who looks for tricky solutions to easy problems but more because I am impulsive and optimistic about the effort involved when it comes to cars and parts. Want to put side draft (or draught) carbs on your car? Sure. Going to buy a pair of Weber DCOE or even Dellortos? No, I will go with Solex carbs. I don't think that the PHH is an inherently bad carb but given the scarcity of components and support there are definitely more obvious choices. I had been going cold on the idea of fitting them as I am actually quite happy with the performance of the car with the 32/36 and since most of my driving is quite slow, using only the primary choke, I figured what is the point? I had a long discussion with a guy at work who is an enthusiast of hot 70's Japanese cars and he convinced me to have another go with the Solex carbs and to look on it as a learning experience. Worst case would be that I would need a day to remove and go back to the downdraft carb. So here we go... The carbs are in overall good condition, having been taken from a Targa rally car in Queensland. I have bought rebuild kits from the eBay seller Alfa1750, who I will ultimately buy new jets from as I go about tuning them. I will write a separate, detailed blog entry on rebuilding them as there is so little information available about the carbs. You are welcome, crazy Solex people! The previous owner said he only pulled them as he wanted to go with 45 DCOEs ( but then what else would you say when you are trying to sell some carbs?). He also had the correct BMW manifolds but he hummed and hawed about keepin them so I ended up having to get my own. Again, I could have gone the easy way and bought a pair of BMW manifolds but I ended up with a pair of Cannon manifolds off eBay. These are ok but there were a number of minor issues with them that expanded the work required. The first problem is that the carbs didn't actually fit the manifolds. Think that all sidedraft carbs are the same? Think again. The Cannon manifold runners actually have far too much material between the two bores and the Solex PHH has a small linkage that extends forward between the chokes to allow adjustment of the two part throttle shaft to balance flow between the two chokes. This feature is either brilliant or terrible, allowing (along with the individual idle mixture adjustment screws) each cylinder to be perfectly balanced / tuned regardless of compression OR... It just gives me another set of frustrating adjustment points to get wrong when tuning. We shall see... First task was to clearance the manifolds to allow this centre linkage on each carb to swing with the throttle. This was completed by scribing the gasket outline on the flange (didn't want to remove too much) and then cutting a chunk from each flange with a hacksaw. A bit of clean up with a file and the carbs can finally slide down the studs fully and fit the manifolds. Hacksaw cut - first vertical through the flange before horizontal. A shot of the freshly clearanced manifold and the offending [genius / bastard] linkage. The manifolds brought their own issues with regard to hardware. I could tell at first glance they were quirky enough that I decided to build the assembly offline on an old head as far as possible to avoid getting to a crucial part of the installation and find I am missing a part. The studs in the manifold were not M8 as might be expected on a manifold for a German car, they are 5/16". OK, no problem, I will get some hardware from the local store. I remove one of the studs to take with me and then promptly lose it. No problem, I will find a replacement... Seems the stud is not that easy to find (in local stores here). The manifold end, with the short thread is 5/16" UNC and the free end, which passes through the carb is 5/16" UNF. Why? The fine thread would have worked on both ends (the coarse would be ok too) but instead we have a combo that complicates its replacement. Can I contact Cannon and a buy a spare? No, they seem to be like Keyser Söze and either don't actually exist or they are so well hidden underground the FBI couldn't track them down. I ended up having to buy a set of studs with nylon nuts from the Australian Weber carb specialist http://www.weberperformance.com.au . These studs actually came with a whitworth thread instead of UNC on the short thread but UNF on the long. Whitworth and UNC thread forms have exactly the same number of threads per inch but with a different angle of thread. With steel studs wound into aluminium manifolds this seems to have made little difference. The next issue that I would love to have been able to contact Cannon about was the brake servo vacuum take off. The manifolds came with a bare threaded hole into one of the runners and after establishing that the studs were an imperial size, I fully expected to be finding an imperial pipe thread size to take a hose tail piece. After applying my vernier calipers and imperial thread gauge I was none the wiser as to what fractional size and thread it could be. While idly flipping through the Ireland Engineering website, I was reading their page on the Cannon double barrel downdraft manifold. This, I was advised, required the BMW vacuum take off from the factory single barrel carb manifold. Surely this won't be the case here that I would be reliant on an ancient BMW factory part with a parallel metric thread? I promptly ordered one from Blunt as my car with a factory double barrel manifold has a pressed in vacuum port so I can't remove it. When I got the part, it seems that my original idea was correct. The BMW part was too big, M22, so I was back looking at hose tails with a pipe thread. I ended up with a 3/8 BSP but I suspect that it is actually an NPT thread (less common in Australia) which means that the thread will not run all the way in. Since this is not under a lot of pressure, I will fit this with some Teflon tape and will call it a day. When fitting up the manifold to my old head, I noted that the available clearance between the head studs and the manifold runners was limited and variable. This meant that standard M8 nuts that require a 13mm spanner, or even worse the current flanged style of manifold nut were out. I bought some smaller but still flanged nuts from BLUNT that still wouldn't quite fit the lower studs. I took my air belt sander and ground the flanges off from the lower 4 nuts to reduce their diameter. I also relieved the runners in rear of the lower studs with the belt sander. This made them a lot easier to install both on the bench and when bending over backwards to get them on in the engine compartment. The next issue to be addressed is coolant, or more accurately the lack of coolant. The downdraft manifolds are heated with coolant returning from the heater to the back of the water pump. My 32/36 Weber also was fitted with a water choke so there was a large amount of hoses that needed to be addressed as part of the conversion. I ordered the E21 bypass pipe and reducing hose from Blunt. This connects between the returning heater hose and the back of the water pump. This includes an additional take-off which runs to an expansion tank but I just sealed this up with A short section of hose clamped on a bolt to seal. The water neck, or divider, which provides the outlet from the cylinder head to the radiator, also needed to be addressed as this has an inconvenient take-off positioned to foul the nearest manifold. Some people treat this by cutting this off and welding this shut. I chose not to do this, mainly so that I would have the ability to revert back to the 32/36 if my experiment with sidedrafts was a failure. I tried to order a new E30 water neck from Blunt but BMW had just posted them as NLA so after trying local Adelaide scrap yards (don't know why I bother) I ended up buying one from Echappe off this board (Ernest). This has two sender ports (probably E21) so I will fit the temperature gauge sender to one and may fit a fan switch to the other. I am fitting the carbs to the manifolds with some 9mm DCOE phenolic carb spacers and gaskets since Solex have a problem with being overheated and warping. As I have a RHD, there are no issues with clearance from the brake servos but I do need to relocate the dipstick bracket so that this will project through between the carbs. For a linkage, I went with the replica TI linkage that LarsAlpina on this board sells. This is a beauty of hand fabrication and fits perfectly, apart from needing modification for the RHD linkage arrangement (which to be fair it was never designed for). Instead of having a linkage from the pedal which runs vertically on the same plane as the linkage lever arm, the RHD has a rod that extends horizontally across the bulkhead from a bell crank that comes through the pedal box on the other side of the engine bay. This horizontal rod passes underneath where the rod pivot is attached to the bulkhead. This means that the crank on the bulkhead end of the carb linkage rod was pointing in the wrong direction. After grinding off the welds I removed the crank from the rod with the idea of re-welding it at the correct angle but I noticed that an adjustable crank with a pinch collar from an old side draft rod linkage set fitted perfectly. This allows me to adjust its rotational position on the rod to make adjustment easier. The existing horizontal rod on the bulkhead has a threaded end to allow a threaded fitting to be positioned for attachment to the existing down draft linkage rod. Since the linkage rod is moved closer to the engine by about 80mm, the point where the horizontal rod and the crank intersect will move by the same amount, outside of the threaded length. The simple solution is to reduce the length of the horizontal rod and cut a new thread to use the same fitting. This doesn't fit with my ethos of a fully reversible swap since the RHD throttle linkage is getting hard to come by these days. I bought a 6mm male rod end and some shaft collars. Threading the collars and rod end along the shaft, I can secure the rod end exactly where I need to intersect with the linkage crank. A couple of nuts and washers and the linkage is complete and fully adjustable. A further issue with using the Cannon manifolds but the stock (replica) linkage is that the throttle return spring has nowhere to go. Armed only with minuscule exploded diagrams and poor photographs it wasn't clear to me where this spring attached either to the carb linkage or at the 'other end'. JGerock from this board (who is building a beautiful TII tribute car) put me straight in that there is a small stud inserted into the flange of the front manifold which accepted the spring and the other end attached through a hole in the front carb linkage. This places the spring towards the front of the gap between the carbs and the drop rod for the linkage towards the rear. Since I don't have the factory manifold I had to fabricate a plate suspended between the top studs to secure the spring on the front side, directly opposite the carb linkage. This will be painted and finished along with the rest of the linkage before figment. I will wrap this entry up now at the point where I am able to move into fitting the carbs. Part 2 of this blog will cover rebuilding the carbs and part 3 will be actual fitment to the car and initial tuning. I will retrospectively add some pictures of the linkage when painted to complete. Any questions, let me know.
  25. Very nice, I got my 11 years old girl a garage find 67 1600NK, she prefer my Prius when she turn 18.
  26. My door panels were in good shape on the vinyl & mylar, I did use the Aardvarc plywood backing panels which I did myself. The carpet is from GAHH and was installed by Vintage Sports & Restoration in Bedford NH.
  27. Bold choice on the wheels, really complements the blue of the car. Great work!
  28. OMG I googled it. Here is something I can't unsee. Not a perfect solution for BMW 2002 dashboards but compared to the rest of the car, this does not look impossibly difficult.
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