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  1. Today
  2. Unless you modify the “bell-crank”, your pedal is going to feel like a brick. You need to change the pedal ratio. I’ve included some photos to show you what needs to be done. My buddy made me an adapter to mate a generation 2 Corvette master cylinder to the factory pick-up point of the “2002”. (the master cylinder was purchased at O’Reillys for $44).........
  3. Spent some time in the garage cleaning and organizing all the crap from/for the build. Also took some time to inventory what I want to keep vs sell, and document some of the parts I've been able to find for Ernie. Original E9 380mm Petri wheel, button and hub. This is the type with the thicker grip and is in great condition. I decided to sell all the other wheels I have after I found this one. NOS red tip Hirschmann antenna. I've got a source in Germany for these, PM me for details. Reproduction Marchal 670/680 driving lights with yellow bulbs and NOS covers. @Forrest_KoogleWerks steering column gauge cluster. NOS swan neck side view mirrors. Traded @bimbill a pair of trapezoids for these. 2 sets of driving light brackets from JBUGs. These clip on to the front bumper brackets. Not sure if I want the tall or short mounted ones, so I bought both and will decide once I see them on the car. Italian turn signals from @danco_. Upgraded door stops from @harry6422. I've also started to collect fabric samples for seat upholstery. I'm leaning towards option A. The car should be ready for paint next week and I'm supposed to head over to approve paint swatches. Can't wait to see that stuff and will post pics. Cheers, James
  4. Lovely, just lovely. Seats are great and I like the center console "delete"
  5. Last week
  6. doslucero

    Steering wheel cover

    No, this is the first time doing any kind of leather work. No template for the leather so that was kind of a guessing game, since the leather stretched. The stitching looks pretty decent but a more heavy duty sewing machine that makes bigger holes would have helped. The leather feels pretty awesome.
  7. Looking good, I'm doing something similar on mine, what did you use for the spot welds, they look good. I used plug welds, but they are a bit of a pain to grind back down.
  8. It has taken years and huge projects to get this far. However, it now seems the smallest projects are more rewarding. What I mean is now that the 2402 is on the road every little project makes it just that much better to drive, that much more useful. Over the Thanksgiving break I was able to tackle some more projects and it really made a difference. 1. fixed the clunk, the Diff flange was too close to the tunnel and under accel the diff rotates nose up and would hit the floor. A little tappy tap with the 5# sledge and problem solved 2. Bump steer was HORRIFIC. Turned out the toe in was just too high. It now tracks straight and the bump steer is totally acceptable. Steering is slow for my liking still, and turning radius that makes a battleship laugh. 3. finally got the lights working as they should. It was a combination of chasing bad grounds and cleaning contacts. With all that fixed I can now run around and run errands and such. The main thing I am noticing...this thing is QUICK! Still much to be done. It needs an interior and the exhaust is too low. That's what winter projects are for!. Went to car and Coffee, no heat is a little rough on a 30* Michigan morning. Pizza pick up in a classic BMW. On the wet roads it's a bit of hand full, but the smiles all around kind!
  9. Earlier
  10. Luckily this BMW has a black interior and carpets. Wanted these in my 2002Tii, but clashed with the carpet.
  11. They’re making great progress! Looking forward to seeing the finished product soon.
  12. So what got lost in translation is that I needed E21 diff output flanges drilled to accept the 2002 CV's. Sooo.. now that the differential is rebuilt I don't think I will use the phantom clutch, as paying twice to get it rebuilt makes no sense. I know that I will need an E30 diff with the power I produce, so .... yeah... kinda disappointed, but what can you do. I really really wanted to get it in, I was excited to get rid of the one tire fire... but what can you do. The good thing is that it is now fresh as a daisy, and I can sell it knowing that whoever gets it, will be able to enjoy it for many years to come.
  13. I dropped by the paint shop today to drop off the hood latch parts so that the body guy could set and align the hood. Here are some pics showing progress. Nose is getting some touch up and the hood is getting aligned. The original fenders have been patched and reattached. Begone rust, after market sheet metal shenanigans and DOT silliness! Doors and sides have been patched as well. No more side markers - or gas cap. The rear panel has been cleaned up and the lower valance replaced. Note the dead center exhaust. Last, they've started to address the trunk area. That's it for now. Another post soon to highlight some of the parts I recently picked up. Cheers, James PS. Shameless plug: I've posted several things for sale. BUY SOMETHING! I need to pay for this stuff 😉.
  14. Today was the culmination of 2 months hemming and hawing about buying a 4pt lift. I went with the Quick Jack. I left a message on the site for anyone who’s already purchased one to give me a PM on how they liked/disliked the lift. Got no response ( I’ll probably get a butt-load of responses AFTER I purchase.... just sayin’). So anyway, I bought it. I started cleaning and clearing the shop to actually get to THE BUILD!!! After having taken an o2 apart and cleaned and restored what was restorable, I was on the computer (02 FAQ) nteaching myself about this car. Many thanks to those who purchased the Automatic parts and to o2Lane (in San Diego) for coming to my home and showing me his fab 02. Now it’s time for ME to kick it in the pie hole and get it started.!!! Shots of the ‘ACTUAL’ 02 I’m working on:
  15. Progress on the test harness has moved faster than my blogging. 🙂 I'm excited - harness complete and used to test three OEM cold start timers. One works. The other two have peeling solder traces. Fixable but I won't spend time right now repairing them - once one spot is fixed its only time before another bit pops up. Super interesting to see the behavior of the system. I'll document it so that folks know exactly what is happening when you turn the key. Have to say it's different than what I expected. With a proven test harness I feel confident wiring up the new board. (11.26.19 sneak data - thats been done too!) I also have a video I'll upload so that you can see it in action. This is progress!
  16. He folks. I will be updating this shortly. Wow the radio was such a PITA.
  17. It all started with a two rust bubbles. One on the bottom of the passenger door, and a more serious one on the bottom of the driver's side rocker. That one was the outer rocker beginning to rust through. While I have owned the car since 1987, it was a daily driver before that. So probably a good 17 years as a well-cared for daily driver. So when I bought it in '87 I knew it was fairly solid, but not perfect, in terms of the condition of the body. And over the years, trips to Vintage and PVGP had certainly exposed it to a couple of full-on Midwestern downpours. So it was time to do something, before the car got much worse. I had preserved it one other time in its history, so this was the second go-round. The paint from '92 was still in good condition, and I really didn't want to paint the entire car. I knew if I did, I would find myself creating reasons not to drive it. And really, the best part of having it is driving it. I didn't want to paint myself into a corner (rimshot). Here are a few shots of it before the work started. (Whoa what a trip down memory lane! These are from the last six years or so).
  18. Prior to building a reproduction Tii cold start timer box I examined the two boards I have. Both are out of '73's and are identical in general appearance. By that I mean they appear to be the same circuit board schematic and all passive components are present. Here is the front and back of one of them: However, the values of some resistors and transistors vary between the two boards. Could be several reasons for this - the system is much more forgiving than I realize and so it doesn't matter what the builder grabbed out of the pile, or it was a planned evolution when they realized it wasn't working as designed. I've seen timer boxes that folks have posted that are slightly different. These circuits also have slightly different components; in this case they even may be different numbers of diodes. Again, could be a natural evolution of the board, or perhaps they had multi-climate versions. Who knows. As an example, here is one from this thread (photos courtesy of the original thread posters). See how this one does not have a "D2" (diode 2) and also has two bridge resistors soldered in the back (normally attributed to a design error on the board). Also a "cooling fin" is wrapped around one of the transistors. General observations: Passive components Components consist of capacitors, resistors, transistors, diodes + a 12v relay. Capacitors can be used as timers. Once filled they will drain at a certain rate based on the size of an attached resistor. Once voltage drops below a specified amount, the transistor will flip a switch. My gut is that each of the capacitors (there are several types on the board, but I'm looking t the blue axial ones) have a resistor and possibly a diode tied to it. The system is triplicate more often than not. Perhaps this aligns with the three phases of timing circuit?- Something to explore. While replacing a burned passive component may kickstart a failed OEM board, based on age and the changing characteristics of the remaining passive components I'd be curious to see if the board will exhibit OEM behavior. Something else to explore. The 12v relay (the big rectangle with a circular top) is no way available today in identical form-factor. Plenty of relays available to take its place but need to understand specs. Spade connectors These are two spade connector styles, one mounted near the edge, one behind it (Longer because it must climb over the near side before mounting to the board). They are in triplicate. 2 styles x 3 sets = 6 total. They appear to be aluminum stock. Pretty sure that I will have to hand craft these individually, or build a daughter board to permit more standard male PCB terminals. I'm going to try handcrafting first but if they don't turn out nearly identical then I won't be happy and will have to turn to plan B. (Somewhere in a German factory there is a bag of these pieces.) @Ray - these are the challenging pieces. Printed Circuit Board The boards I have examined have inconsistent soldering quality (not a surprise) and/or peeling solder traces. Heck its been 40+ years. Most often have burnt components too (or at least look burnt). Also the original one layer board material is significantly different than today's boards. Compare the new boards below with the original style. Building a PCB out of modern materials was a top priority if the new box was to have any sort of longevity. The good news is that v1.0 of the board has been built. While it looks great it remains to be tested. I am sure that some modifications will be necessary in order to support new passive components with new dimensions (for example the 12v relay is totally different). Also --> While I understand the general design of the system and its purpose, the nuances of the component relationships + behavior are a bit unclear and I am excited to finish the test harness to better understand how all of it works together. Next up --> blog post walk through of the test harness and then probably another blog as a walk through of the circuit behavior so that I know what I am looking at when I test it.
  19. Yes, it is hanging in there. That rebuild was in 2011, I think. One of the best things I ever did to the car, in terms of driving enjoyment. Scott
  20. irdave

    Ground Control struts

    Welded on the Ground Control bits, installed the rebound adjustable Koni inserts, Eibach springs, GC camber plates. These are the e30m3 struts but it's the same for the 2002 guys. The rear is interesting, between the 02 chassis and the e30m3 subframe I need springs in the 11 to 13 inch long range... All of this is temporary until I get around to another set of MCS dampers. Loved them in the tii, they're just super ultra mega.
  21. JsnPpp

    How she sat

    Definitely some work ahead of you but the rest of the body looks pretty nice. Just takes time! Jason
  22. That's certainly more rust repair than I thought they would find. Glad you had it taken care of now.
  23. Reggie's wife Stephanie took some nice pics of the car after it was all cleaned up. So photo credit goes to Stephanie Stewart. Car came out great. Nice to know it is solid underneath, once again. Hope it lasts another 50 years!
  24. Reggie's used the same DuPont paint that was used in the early '90s. They used the door to create the match, since they could see it from all angles, and get good light on it. The paint match turned out pretty nice, I have to say. They did a great job. And I didn't have to spring for a full repaint. Here's the various coatings, etc, that were used, from an email from Reggie: Behind and in-between metal that will no longer be accessible, we use a weld-through primer, which is basically liquid zinc. On your pinch welds, we use a Wurth body panel adhesive along with the pinch welding technique, so that all of the space between pinch welds is sealed (and technically stronger) - This is likely similar to the glue that holds the roof on your M3. On bare metal that we have access to, we will do a 3-step POR-15 application (3-steps being, clean/degrease/etch, then paint) In cavities that we don’t have access to, we will use that Eastwood internal frame coating. We will apply 3M or Wurth seam sealer around all weld seams and flanged joints. On the texture, we use a Wurth product with a gun that is made by them specifically to shoot this coating. (This is the body shutz he's referring to here.)
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