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  1. Last week
  2. Fletcher


    When I created the blog, I thought the following would be the first entry and not the about info. Apologies for the duplication. My probable starting point is this 1976 BMW 2002 Mint Green (or Lime Sherbet as its owner described it to me) currently parked in a field in Northern California wine country. It is a rolling chassis sans engine/trans/driveshaft. Interior is mostly complete and intact. Front seats and headliner need to be replaced. As does the instrument cluster. I've seen the interiors spaces as well as under the hood, in trunk and some of the underbelly by video call with the owner: With exception of drivers side rocker panel and drivers side front pillar, the majority of the rust is surface only from having lived most of its life a block from the beach in San Francisco. It's part of a "kit" that I hope to soon make the trip to California (from Federal Way, WA) to bring home. Also included in the kit are donor parts from the owners shop in Sonoma inclusive of engine, transmission, driveshaft and miscellany. I'd be lying if I said that first sight of the car didn't give me pause and cause to wonder if I even begin to possess the skills or resources to do this, but the seller in question is well known within the community and highly regarded. He's a good friend to my brother and one of my sons - who worked for him briefly one summer - speaks highly of him. So, I'm putting my faith in him, his enthusiasm and repeating my mantra "I think I can" I've never been a blogger, but I seems like a reasonable way to document the journey. So, giving this a shot. Input, suggestions, warnings, disclaimers, encouragement, jokes, wisecracks, any and all are appreciated. Thanks 👍
  3. Earlier
  4. The refreshed front end all painted looks just 👌. In my head I was thinking this is the right course of action for my own heap when I get there, but I want to media blast particularly in behind those wings that you've replaced. Somehow your frame rail is even more far gone than my own.
  5. Since it was a year between my last two updates I’m going to try to update this each time I work on the car. Last fri I glued in the firewall pad. Tonight I glued the outer insulation pad to the pedal box, repaired and re-wrapped the bulk of the engine bay wiring, and installed the coil/resistor/relay, and the pedal box/booster/brackets.
  6. creede

    It's alive!!

    Good eye! It is a carbon fiber hood, from a group buy here years ago...
  7. skylund

    Rear Subframe Mounts

    Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah this is consistent with what I'm seeing. I think I'll also need to bend the rearmost tab (running laterally) toward the upper plate to make contact. Thanks again.
  8. I needed a new headliner in my project car and after seeing how much work it was going to be, I decided I might as well personalise it a bit. Having been inspired by the use of tartan design fabric in Porsches and VWs I started a search for a suitable fabric for my Inka coloured 71. I was aware of the danger of using a dark fabric for headliner which would make the interior feel small and claustrophobic. This is the fabric that I settled on: It has the orange of the car and also a complementary light blue giving it a much lighter feel than many other tartan designs. I used polyester poplin but it doesn't have much stretch so I had some difficulty when I was pressing the headliner in to install the sun visors, a more stretchy fabric might work better or the headliner could be left a bit slack where the visors go in. So with the fabric chosen, these are the steps I followed to make the headliner and the parcel shelf. First lay out the old headliner and measure it. These are the measurements that I got from my old headliner Mark the centre of the board with the holes for the clips from the old headliner and then remove it from the headliner material as we need to reused it. Cut the new fabric to 1200mm x 1800mm Turn fabric over and with a pencil, don’t use pen or anything which may show through on the on the other side, mark a centre line length-wise. Starting from the back, leave 200mm and then draw a perpendicular line to the centre line. This will be where rod #5 will sit and we need to add 2 more lines to guide us in making the loop that this rod will go through. Draw 2 lines from the last line we did, one at 20mm and another at 40mm. The idea is that we will fold the material at the middle line and then sew along line 3 which should be sitting on line 1, this creates the pocket or loop that the rod will go into. Since the rods are bent at their ends, if the loops were left uncut all the way to the end of the material, then the headliner would bunch up and cause wrinkles so the loops need to be cut at the ends to relieve the fabric. I measured the cuts on my old headliner and then marked a little bit less on the new material to leave room for adjustment, you don’t want to cut too much, better to leave some of it uncut and adjust it once it is hanging up from the rod. The slanted lines are my cutting guide lines. From the last line for rod #5 measure 280mm and then repeat the process of drawing the 3 lines for rod #4. Repeat this process for all the other rods but note that the distance between rod #1 and #2 is different, it is 230mm instead of 280mm Once all the lines are drawn, start with rod #5 markings, fold the material along the middle line, pin the material to itself and then iron along the fold. This helped me sew along a straight line, which is important if the material has lines which make it easy to spot where things don’t match up. Before doing any sewing use some cut off pieces to adjust the tension and stitch length on your machine. Now sew along the visible line from the last step. I decided to sew a 2nd line 4-5mm to the right of the 1st one just for a bit more strength. Part of the loop is then cut out, taking care not to cut the stitching. Repeat the sewing for the other loops. We need to glue the board back onto the new fabric but I found this to be quite tricky because the board is actually bent when it gets installed. So from my old headliner, I cut out the piece after rod #5 and along the curve where the old headliner was folded over the board. I then used this as a template (draw mid line on the old headliner before cutting so that it can be lined up with the mid line of the new material) for where the new material should be glued to the board. Pin the template down and draw a line around it. Cut the fabric about 50mm away from the curved line that was drawn in the previous step. Apply glue to the board Line up the edge of the board with the curved line on the fabric, you will have bend the board a little. Then fold the end of the material over and press into to the glue. The headliner is ready to be installed, now is a good time to iron it to get any wrinkles out of it. Also put the screws into roof of the car for where the handles, sun-visors and quarter window hardware get attached. This saves hours of time later when trying to find the screw holes. Temporarily install the rods into the car, move them until they are in the top most position, mark this position in the roof with some masking tape, these marks will help during installation and ensure that each rod is in the correct position before we move on to the next one. Install the board which is now glued to the headliner, into the car using the metal clips. Insert rod #5 into its loop in the headliner and then put one end of the rod into its position in the roof and with the top of the rod closer to the back of the car, bend the rod a little bit until the other end can be put into position. Then pull the headliner to the front of the car until the loop reaches the masking tape mark. Check for wrinkles around where the rod bends down, if necessary cut a little bit of the loop to relieve the fabric, go slow. Repeat the above process for all the rods, the headliner is now hanging up and looking something like this. It is not fixed at the front yet so it looks floppy. Line up the centre line of the headliner with the centre line of the car, pull the headliner tight and add a clip. Work your way to the sides, pulling the material and adding clips one clip width apart. Once the front is clipped, start clipping the sides. Then fine tune the front further by pulling and adding a clip in between the clips which are there already. Glue some foam to the pillars and tuck it under the headliner. Some vinyl will cover this up later and the foam helps hide the wires that run underneath. I used 6mm because thats what I had handy, bit thicker might be better though. Once you’re happy with the way the headliner is sitting, start at the front windscreen, remove 5 or so clips, use a brush to apply some glue to the body, wait 1 min for the glue to get tacky and then press the headliner in. Repeat all around the car. Cut off excess fabric with a sharp knife. The headliner is glued in now, but there is still lots of details left to do. The vinyl on the pillars from my car were not in very good shape so I re did them, a heavy duty sewing machine would be handy for stitching the vinyl but a standard one will just manage a fold. I think it’s better to do the rear pillars with the same material as the headliner because doing it in the dark vinyl would probably create high contrast and might be distracting in the rear view mirror. I used some paper to create a template which was then transferred to the material With the headliner in, work starts on the parcel shelf. Use the old one as a template to cut out a new one from 4.8mm masonite. Using thicker masonite might be a good idea because my staples were denting the good side of the masonite. I got around this by adding foam underneath the vinyl to hide any imperfections. Trying out the fit for the new shelf with the speakers. Cut out enough vinyl so that the edges can be folded over underneath. I sewed in a bit of the headliner material to the vinyl to go in between the speakers. Cut reliefs in the vinyl where there is a curve in the shelf, add a layer of foam under the vinyl, apply glue to the edges and around the holes for the speakers. Fold the vinyl over and then staple with an air-powered staple gun (my manual stapler didn’t cut it). With a sharp knife carefully cut out the vinyl which is hiding the speaker holes. Install the parcel shelf into the car, screw in the speakers and install the grilles. All done, ready for windscreen installation!
  9. I’ve managed to fit a a new outer wheel tub, a new outer rocker panel, and a harvested trunk divider. I also have the quarter panel from the ‘69 for this car once it’s time. Rebuilt and powered coat trailing arms and long neck subframe were installed under the car to make it a roller again. I also removed the engine/trans so I could get a better idea of how bent the front of the car is. It didnt look good from what I can recall. I won’t likely touch this one ‘til the ‘73 is a runner driver again. That might take a while. Oh well. It’ll be there when the time is right. Some day... IMG_0860.MOV
  10. had my (original owner) 97 M3 out on track this past weekend. best car i have ever owned, by far, and the last one i would ever part with. i get smoked by the newer bmw's and camaro's in the the instructor group, but can't wipe the big stupid grin off my face driving it. warning though...i got hit by the defective bmw power steering system flaw going into turn one at a significant rate. the low pressure hose connection to the "trombone" fluid cooler is a well known failure point that yields spectacular results as the ATF hits the LF tire and the exhaust system. i had preventatively replaced mine 20k miles ago. it blew out anyway. huge mess and thankfully none of the cars behind me collected me as i sat backward in the middle of the turn smoking. anyone with an e36 must change that line, reinforce the connection or replace whole system with aftermarket kit that uses braided hose and AN fitings.
  11. Aasco flywheel works with stock everything, so I went with that since I already had it on hand and it's not overly lightweight. Everything came together nicely Engine is complete as a unit and united with the subframe. Car lifted up super high, you need about 33" of clearance not including whatever you're using to slide it under the car. I used low profile jacks to pivot it into place. Then grabbed the engine from the top using an engine crane, and pulled it up into place so I could mate the subframe to the body. I pulled out the stock return line and got rid of the plastic fuel feed running through the cabin. I used new 5/16" stainless to bend up two new lines for both feed and return. These I flared on both ends, and I very guiltily made a new hole for the return hose to pass through. Even though I am using nice reinforced and jacketed line, I lined the new hole with some thick heater hose to protect the return line. The unused return is capped using the ol' bolt in a piece of hose trick. The new return flows through the e30 m42 fuel pump to avoid a potentially dangerous static charge build up. After mocking up several times and then coming to realize that I could not access the pin that links the selector rod and selector joint together, I gave up. Instead of shortening the e21 platform, I chopped it down to basically just the cup and immediate surrounding area. Using 3 of the e30 airbox bushings, and cutting down the e21 foam (it has a metal core) I made essentially a mostly-rigid chassis mount. This eliminated a bunch of extra parts and chances for play, and I generally like a more positive feeling shifter assembly anyways. Since I can't use the stock airbox, obviously we have to go aftermarket. I went with the KA Motors intake kit, as it seems nice enough and comes with an AFM adapter. (I have recently learned the intake is really just a generic piece you can online anywhere for pretty cheap.) While the intake is okay, the adapter is quite the opposite. The AFM adapter is metal and the hole pattern is close enough, but the mating flange was fairly warped. It took about 20 minutes of sanding by hand (with 3 steps of grit) on my work bench to get it flat enough for me to be happy. The "gasket" is made out of a hard, thick, non-malliable material that seems like Polystyrene or something similar. Also WILDLY warped, and since it's completely non-conforming it's essentially useless as a gasket. Ended up sanding this flat enough to use as well, but used some gasket maker on both sides of it. AFM coupled with Jakeb's bracket. The bracket was pretty rough, and also needed a lot of sanding in certain places to not cause notable hazard to soft hands.
  12. Is there anyone who knows where are these cars ? I belive many of them were wrecked but not all of them...
  13. Atlinke

    Paint, Steering, Gas

    Thanks for the tow hooks and air dam! The fitment is spot on!!
  14. Drove her down to Harpswell Neck to Pammy’s Ice Cream. Sunny & cool. My friend drove his 1930 Lincoln Dual Cowl Phaeton after a 5 year engine rebuild. Both cars garnered all the attention. The top down drive home was pretty cold.
  15. Whats the process for bleeding the clutch too?
  16. Markster

    COVID 19 update

    OK so it is time to "catch up" a bit here. COVID 19 has kept me busy with my BMW - aka "the occupier". Been sitting for five years after I "got it running" with a lot of necessary parts - The Engine, The Brakes, The Shocks, The Electrical and The Fuel. Was good but it was kinda like that first and second date. She needed a lot of work. I sold my 1972 Karmann Ghia Convertible to pay for the BMW Project ... and yes I do miss my Ghia dearly. So where I am now is on blocks again since COVID 19. And yes the labor of love is so much fun. Budgets are not fun. Here are the areas where I will spend time in the upcoming blog entries. *Interior - full restoration to as close to new as I can get it. New Seats, Carpet and Dash. Out with the complete Recaro you may have seen from the earlier shots I have posted. I just could not look at the car from outside and see those seats protruding inside the cabin... *Full restoration on the heater box/heater core *Door Seals, Window Seals, Headliner, New Glass front and rear *Frame Rail - Driver's Side *Engine - check for issues - since I built it myself I am my own worst critic. Ditching the Dellortos for a 38/38 and a 123 ignition. *5-Speed is a possibility - not sure for some reason hesitating. Could be that the new Just Dashes project has a 4 speed symbol nicely embossed and darn it won't match? *Steering box - well you may have seen my saga there - I think with all the parts I can assemble one good one... *Exhaust - get back to right side exit - picked up a W&N spaghetti manifold and exhaust in stainless *Bumpers/Grills - yes I have one early and one late grill. Never knew that. Gonna fix that too. Got some better looking non rusted original guards for the rear. Paint - if I can ever find a shop that will do it. Did I miss anything - Jesus this is going to be nice. 🙂
  17. Hello folks - if you have an early model with the original hood and the wind blows it shut you have a few options. I went this route. I am satisfied! Here they are completed - but need primer. I started with these And I researched and did not like what the parts stores were offering so I decided on this design... I risked life and limb with my drill press converted to a mill (do not do this at home) I cut some steel and bonded it in to get this... And here they are after cleaning up all the surfaces...
  18. Hi Folks - just getting the hang of this blog process. Here is the before shot... And the after shot New motor - but the old one still works. Rebuilt heater core - San Jose Radiator. New grommets, new foam, cracks epoxied, sex bolts to replace the rivets, rebuilt valve (new oring) and valve mounting bracket. Could not have done it without my Dremel - first Dremel I ever owned!
  19. 🙂 All good! It's been a fun journey for sure and I am truly happy to have it all work out for folks. Jason
  20. Just uploaded a video discussion and installation of our complete Long console! https://youtu.be/SbJxiMXlNEA
  21. made a little video a while back after unboxing the MVP early model nose panel.
  22. The box ended up being just under 22" wide at 21.75". Cool to see you're making good progress as well! Having all the bodywork done already makes things a bit stressful as we're loading heavy batteries in and out of the car... !
  23. super detailed job- Nicely done!!
  24. This is awesome. Well done!
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