Blogs and Articles

Showing articles and blog entries posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Magoo

    Rims found

    I had a rim wish list and patience has paid off. Some nice SSR reverse mesh 3 pce. These guys are in 15x7.5 -5 offset, so some nice dish 🤘🤘
  3. Last week
  4. heinemann

    I Hate Wiring

    I have a specialist components typhoon 2 ecu for sale. I ran my s54 swapped 2002 with it before converting it back to drive-by-wire. Of course, it would have to be wired and mapped for the m20 engine. It's an option if you're interested. Looking forward to updates.
  5. Simeon

    Wrap up on the build. Then more to come.

    So, would you say a positive experience? Like most things, there sounds like a few areas that you might do differently but nothing too major.
  6. How to Reuse Heater Motor Metal Fan Blades The replacement heater blower motor is no longer available as a complete assembly; only the blower motor itself. Many of us would like to keep the original metal or aluminum fan blade, but it’s almost impossible to remove the fan blade from the old/seized motor without destroying the pressed in plastic bushing that the fan sits between. By this decade, any of these bushings have also become brittle and separated. If you have a very early metal blade that came with the set screw, then you may be able to transfer and reuse the blade if the set screw is not rusted out. PRDesignSF has been proud to offer you the plastic fan blade that adapts to the new motor. Since there is a lot less weight for the motor to turn, it puts less stress on the motor, allowing it to last longer while providing almost the same air flow. For those who would like to save and reuse the metal/aluminum blades, we have created an adapter screw from stainless steel that will work. Now you will be able to reuse the metal blade and make it look more original. Heres’s a quick guide to removing the blade safely without destroying it. The one thing that you do not want to do is attempt to yank the blade off the shaft; you will damage the blade. The metal shaft needs to be cut off and press out. You could reuse the plastic bushing if they are still in good condition, or if you do not want to take a chance for the bushing become separated in the future, you can use the new adapter screw that we made. With the motor out, separate the plastic body housing by prying the tabs and they will split up. Remove the press-in clip at the end of the shaft and cut the upper support arm bearing housing. This is to create some space for you to be able to cut the shaft. Now you can pull the internal parts out, including the stator, from the housing. There is a square clip at the back of the bearing support arms; pry it with a screwdriver and the support arm will become loose, but still attached to the shaft. It’s seated in a spherical race. You should be able to move it around to create enough space to cut the shaft now. With the shaft cut off, turn the fan upside down and support it with a 14mm deep socket. Now, you can use a punch to drift the shaft out. The bushing will be separated and the fan will be free. The plastic bushing consists of two separate parts, the top half features a built in key to lock the blade, and the bottom half to keep the the upper bushing from coming off the blade by pressing into it. You can clean up the blade, but be very gentle with an aluminum blade: It’s very easy to deform the blade. The adapter screw is very easy to install. Twist the adapter through the fan center hole and tighten it with the nylock nut. Use an 8mm allen and 14mm socket to tighten the adapter screw. Tightened to 16-18 Ft Lb. Mark approximately 5 mm from the upper fan body to the shaft; too far out and the fan will interfere with the fresh air flap. You can also tell if you’ve put the fan at the right depth if you have the chamfered edge slightly sticking out from the adapter. Tighten the set screw using a 2mm allen into the shaft. Because the set screw is cupped, it will bite into the shaft and secure it. Be sure to use thread locker (medium strength) on the set screw to prevent it from backing out. You could also apply a dab of paint on the top of the set screw to provide additional protection from backing out. Optionally (Recommended), you can also cut a divot into the shaft to provide a flat area for the set screw to sit in; it’s still a good idea to apply threadlocker onto the set screw. To test proper blade orientation, power up the motor (Male -, Female +). When the blades are facing you, they should be turning counter clockwise. If you feel a lot of vibration (Light vibration is acceptable), then most likely the blades were not straight. Looking from the side of the motor, check if all the blade’s center ridges are 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the shaft motor, otherwise they are out of balance. With this, now you have the option of reusing your metal/aluminum blade or plastic blade. Either metal (Used) or plastic fan blades can be purchased from our store as well. Contact us at or email Happy ’02 motoring!
  7. jgerock

    Mid America '02 Fest 2019!

    Those are great trophies! Here's mine. It's heavy.
  8. agave67


    i'm all for it ! excited and willing to complete. will be fun .
  9. ethan2002

    The start

    Great job of the front speakers! Can't wait to see the finished interior!
  10. So ecstatic to have Tesoro back home! Now its time to drive! (only when its not raining) 😜
  11. NYNick

    Rubber Seals

    The last few months I needed to finish up the car and get it watertight to ship off to the shop for the engine install. I had ordered BMW OEM seals from Steve at Blunt a while ago, and was dreading the various jobs after reading and re-reading all the Tech articles. I decided to put myself in a corner and asked my 30 year old son to help me with the windshields since he had done both of his on his 911 with my daughter. We decided to do it over Christmas while he was here for a few days. I bought the nylon rope and washed the seals in my slop sink, cleaning them with my go-to Dawn liquid to get all the while stuff off. The windshields had been stored in my garage for over two years, so I was anxious to get them on the car and finally out of the way. We started with the front. We laid a moving blanket on the hood, sprayed the seal with soapy water and put the rope around it twice after fitting it on the glass. We also sprayed the car frame to help set the glass. Lifting it into place, my job was to push as he pulled the rope from the inside of the car, slightly behind as he went. This is a simple job, but not easy. With him occasionally telling me to do this or that (in a somewhat firm (LOL!) manner), it took us three tries to get it in. Long story short, it took us three tries on the rear as well. All in all, I'd say it took us 3 hours for both. Job done! Have someone with experience to help. I tackled the lock strip myself later in the week. I bought the stupid tool and gouged, scraped and blundered my way around the front windshield after silcone-ing underneath. The trick here is to use a LOT of soapy water and to get the angle of the tool just right. The corners are the tricky part and a second set of hands would help, as I found out later. Learning that, I enlisted a Porsche buddy for the rear. While he kept the strip aligned and facing down properly, I could concentrate on the right tool angle. We had it done in 15-20 minutes. MUCH easier with 2 people! The trunk seal was pretty easy. My upholsterer had given me a jar of heat activated glue that you brush on and let dry. I then attached the seal, after undoing the hinges one at a time to get it underneath (careful, they're spring loaded) and locked it down with some clothes pins. A heat gun warmed the seal and activated the glue. Easy! I have to SLAM the trunk now but I've got a really nice seal back there. The front hood seal is easy. You just have to decide which way to lay it on the hood. I was surprised to hear form Steve at Blunt that there is some controversy on this point, but I took his advice and laid it on the way he suggested. A little glue and bingo. Next up: doors. I already had that pushing tool that's made of plastic, and tackled the doors. I had stripped the car to get it painted, and didn't realize I needed to put the upper chrome piece on the latch side of the door back on the car first until after I had glued the seals in place. Don't make my mistake! The seal tucks into that piece as well. My biggest problem was the seals were too long...that is, they extended past my rocker panels plastic cover. I didn't stretch them or pull on them, they were just a few inches too long. This is a fiddly job and you need good glue. I eventually trimmed them, even though they have a specific profile at their ends to fit into the rocker panel trim. Sometimes, you just gotta do what you gotta do. This job was tough. Even after adjusting the striker, the doors aren't flush. I hear this is pretty common, but it drives me crazy. Next was the rear windows. This was the toughest of them all. My buddy was already here helping me with the rear lock strip and he pushed me to do the rear window seals. Thank God he did. Being a bit younger than me, he did all the pushing and tucking while I did the guiding but still, took us maybe 2 hours and a lot of (his) strength. Very difficult but they're in, and in correctly. Two man job. After all this I got to install the rear windows and their new seals. Pretty easy and straight forward. I kept one window assembled while I worked on the other one, for reference. They went in fairly easily...wife helped hold them in place while I screwed them into place. All in all, pretty satisfying. I don't want to do them again but if I have to, now I know how!
  12. collard greens 2002

    Dapper Lighting headlights install (v2’s)

    I will be doing a full install of this great product I purchased from Dapper Lighting... (v2’s) stay tuned. Time to start the removal process. I started by removing the headlight/grill trim, there are four screws in front and one hook screw (red arrow) in the back. Once it’s removed you can see the headlight ring trim which is held down to the bucket with three small flat head screws
  13. Eulean

    The Rabbit Hole of AC

    Please keep us posted on your progress. I just wish that aftermarket systems would have fresh air and not just recirc.
  14. benzintinte

    M20 ITBs

    No worries happy to answer! I'm doing an ECUmaster EMU Classic, per recommendation of RHD. I had wanted to do the Megasquirt PNP system, but it seems like 50/50 for people having good results with it.
  15. skyking96w

    FLEXSEAL ... Here It Is!!

    Looks pretty solid, and it will be worth the effort.
  16. Earlier
  17. Dudeland

    Time for a Pro? or do I go?

    Just a quick update, I am going to post a wrap-up on the install to this point. When I was tuning I took out the vacuum advance, just to make it a little easier to find the base tune. I got around to smoothing out the advance curve a bit and put in the Vac advance again. I have to say it made a big difference in terms of accelerating at low speed+RPM. It detects the load and responds, I never quite understood it untill now. The change would normally dictate some futzing around with jets et al, but with the EFI, I let it get a much fuel as it likes, and boom, instant performance, nice and easy. A really nice ( and unexpected) upside to having this sort of system. It gets the best performance out of any change you make.
  18. benzintinte

    Rear Buckets, Valve Cover

    I can't leave well enough alone. But when the opportunity arises to get something on my bucket list, I'm not going to say no. Short background story, my friend bought an E24 last year. It sat on the back burner for a while because he was too deep in with other projects, and eventually he dropped it off at a friend's shop to just get it sorted so he could drive it. While parked there, the girlfriend of one of the techs backed a trunk into the quarter panel, and completely totaled the car. Downside, a minty 635csi died. Upside, I scored some sweet rear seats before it went off to auction. I could really use a template to cut these, before I start guessing. My spacial estimations have let me down before, I rather not get too aggressive and ruin the seats. For shits and giggles I through them in the car while cleaning yesterday. Keep in mind this is with 0 cutting, so they stick forward about a mile. But hey, they look pretty cool with the Car Make Corn's bucket seats up front. The tentative plan is to dye these black as well, get them cut and fitted, and enjoy. I also had a new valve cover done up. One thing that bugs me with a lot of M20 ITB setups is the valve cover. There is a bracket built in that supports the intake manifold. When you go the the ITBs it becomes useless. I had it shaved off, which apparently isn't the easiest process. The casting is super dirty, and pinholed quite a bit when the two holes were filled. As a result, the final powder coat shows where those holes used to be. It's minor, and I may redo this again later. But for now it's better than having the bracket, in my opinion. It's just one more side project I've added to my list, but it's whatever at this point. The car takes as long as it takes. Theoretically today I'll finally be getting the rear end back together, I'm hoping to have the chassis as a roller again this weekend. You guys will be the first to know if I succeed.
  19. Blackwhiteandblue

    Houndstooth ready

    Where did you get the upholstery kit if you don't mind me asking? Thanks
  20. I spent the weekend finally getting some work done on my car. Previously I had ordered a trunk kit to replace the rusty metal in the tire well and around the gas tank. This weekend I got the well replaced. The new well was long and designed to be fit to size. I did some initial fitting and cut the lip off where it would be in the way. Next up was cutting out the old well. Fun times in cramped working conditions. Well is out and fitting the new well continues. There was a radius on the old well where it blended with the trunk floor, I removed it with a hammer and dolly to make a better connection when the new well went in. Everything is flat and a LIGHT coating of zinc primer has been sprayed on. You can see holes in the trunk floor where I have been using cleco clips to hold the new well in for fitting. fitted and clamped in place. Ready to be welded. This was as far as I got the first day. Cutting and fitting took about 7 hours of work. Next morning... Zap zap zap zap all the way around. I found a few placed where the zinc had gone on a little thick and was getting contaminated welds from it. So I took it down a bit and my welds got good again. Also welding up the holes from the cleco clips while I go. Well is in and I had plenty of time left to fit the well floor. it was close, but there were lots of gaps I'd need to close with hammer and dolly while welding it in. No room for clecos here, so I just layed in a couple tacks and went for it. Working around the well floor.The copper strip is used as a heat sink that weld won't stick to. The RR Spike is and dolly are both used to move the metal to cloe the gaps. You can see the gaps closing up where while I work around the well. This was a good bit of work. And its in, with literal minutes to spare before I had to stop work, clean up, and make the 3 hour drive back home. I scrubbed it with some ospho to remove the surface rust that had formed, and then sprayed on some more ospho to keep new rust from forming until the next time I could get to it. Next step will be the gas tank surround. Once that's done I can put the gas tank back in, run fuel lines, and no longer have to push the car around to work on it! Zach
  21. grizzlebar

    Mock, mock, mock

    Had some free time this afternoon to finally get a detailed mocking of the center console panel done. Need to remember to move the cutout for the switch panel up an 1/8 of an inch when I eventually get around to cutting everything up.
  22. 69Bimmer02

    Dash finally done!

    After roughly 6 months got the dash back from Just Dashes. They did a great job as expected. Also had them put a 5 speed indicator to match the technology. I had Finishline interiors in San Jose rework the little side vent pieces as mine were destroyed. They also cleaned up all under panels. Really pleased with how everything turned out. It’s not cheap but it really does look like a new stock dash near as I can tell.
  23. Feeling Brisbane vibes today for a TBT! Looking forward to the next one in May! When I grow up, I am going to be that little old lady driving her classic car(s) - with driving gloves on! ... ☺️
  24. Looks like you are making good progress with reconstruction! If it makes you feel any better, I am in similar position except that I need to replace Fand R floors and am trying to decide whether to remove quarter to allow full outer rocker replacement or cutting rocker in near the quarter seam. My L frame rail is bad under floor but ok in engine bay. I pulled my wing sheet and found a nest under wiring harness...scary. Planning to pull fuse block out to enable cleanup underneath. Anyway, I digress. Nice work and hope it continues well.
  25. andernamen

    Sprechen Sie Deutsch? - January 14, 2019

    Meine Deutsch ist fuerchterlich, aber ich konnte insgesamt gut verstehen. Es ist Hoch Deutsche, keine sorge!
  26. grizzlebar

    Finally, an update!

    Finally got a chance to get back to things now that I think I'm going to commit to the Vintage in May. Cleared out all of the things I had in the trunk and laid it all out on my dining room table to get a good sense of what still needs to be done. Also took a good half hour or so to start grinding out the cracks in the dash. Still not sure of the method of filling them yet but the expanding foam/epoxy route may be the way to go since the dash is getting a new leather cover when its all said and done. This morning I took some time to update my project tracker. Seems like a lot, but it is also a fair number of smaller projects - breaking it all out helps me think of flow. BMW Plan.pdf
  27. A few months back I had decided that the outer wheelhouse that I scabbed together for the R/R just wasn’t good enough. A WN order netted me a new housing along with more bits n bobs. I had originally planned to swap this car to a shortneck diff as the old subframe was bent. Well, I lucked into a nice longneck subframe and control arms a bit ago so gears changed and I’m now committed to a longneck install. I’m currently struggling with the control arm bushings for this setup. The new OEM bushings aren’t built like the originals and don’t fit. They’re missing an outer sleeve so they’re loose. I either need to create a sleeve, source NOS bushings, go poly, or salvage my cracked and worn originals from the old control arms. Ugh I managed to locate a 1bbl carb air cleaner and modified it to fit the Weber 32/36 that’s on the car now. I still need to add the CCV tube, but it’s coming along nicely. I’ve also collected a crack free instrument cluster dash pad and a crack free upper pad. Now to stumble onto a nice lower pad with no tray ribs to complete my 3pc dash. Little things needed for the 5spd swap are showing up. A new stock exhaust is here, proper hubcaps, and misc other items are present and accounted for. I think I have a plan for my adjustable “frame table” I’ll start in on that in this lifetime somewhere. 🤣
  28. Dionk

    Time to let the professionals take over

    Y Jim It’s bitter sweet for sure. I was discouraged and briefly contemplated selling off the project. The budget I’m now using for a professional paint job was earmarked for new engine. I’ll make due with the engine I have for a while. The car is now at Hardcore Hotrods in Sterling, VA awaiting their assessment and quote. Cringe.....
  1. Load more activity