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  1. Last week
  2. Sorry to hear about the (temporary) heartbreak, but I'm way into your vision for the car. Your aesthetic is spot-on in my book, all the way down to the beefy steelies and Kooglewerks duck bill. Very exciting. I'll definitely be following your progress. Do you think you'll be pulling the trigger on those weirdly-named Miata wheels?
  3. Earlier
  4. Mike G

    Yep, I own it.

    Sorry to hear about your bad luck, but I’m looking forwards to seeing the restoration.
  5. AceAndrew

    The tear down

    Haha, I'm sure that was a fun experience. Props to Patrick. I'm excited to see how this pans out for you. Given our similar tastes, this is going to turn out..... awesome.
  6. So for those who care, the turbo is offically a peice of worn out shit. I am trying to get what money I can get from Paypal. I mistakenly disputed the transaction early and ran out of time, so all I can do is dispute $500 of the turbo cost. The quote is below. I fucked up with paypal. My fault. it will cost me $800 for that error. Live and learn, but I should have known better. Of course I am probably better buying a new one for that price, but the ceramic BB is so long lasting, I am leaning towards fixing it. "Here is a breakdown of the parts that your turbo needs. Hopefully you take this advice and not be used turbo online in the future. This particular unit is rather old in fact the turbine wheel that it has we no longer make. So you would need to purchase a new turbine wheel and turbine housing because your new wheel will not fit your existing turbine housing. Labor $290 Turbine Wheel $305.07 Turbine housing $263.10 Ball Bearing Maintenance (Repair) kit $406.12 That brings your total to $1,264.29 Please let me know how you would like to proceed. "
  7. Nice going, I hope it holds... My go-to repair method is JB Weld and a 3” length of coat hanger wire. I lay a generous bead of JB Weld in a 3” area across the crack, drop the wire down on top of it, press it down and add a little more JB. It’s always worked great and I’ve never encountered any “galvanic corrosion” (god, you’re such a geek! 😘). COOP
  8. Bought new door window trim assemblies from Paul Wegweiser at bimmer.com. They arrived Friday September 27th 2019. Installed them Saturday morning. Needed to use the old assembly clips near the vent windows. They did take a little persuasive force to install with the new welting and squeegees. If your window welting and squeegees are shot, buy these assemblies while they are available.
  9. Thanks MoBrighta, yes, it's a 12v system. Hope to pick the car up soon while the weather is still pleasant.
  10. any update on the 6 fuse? if anyone has a scan or photo, i can create it too!
  11. maikell77

    IT'S ON THE ROAD

    I have been working on this car for 4 years. The first blog post was 2/26/2016. At that time I had already spent some 6-8 months repairing rust. Last night the last hurdle was cleared. The custom driveshaft was picked up by my lovely wife. In one of the few times something worked first time. This video is the first time since I've owned this car that it moved on it's own! On to the thoughts about driving. So far only up to about 50 mph. The 320i rack with stock 2002 steering arms is extremely slow. It really takes your attention to keep going where you want. The eibach springs ride very nice. The LE5 pulls like a train! I knew with 180 hp it would be reasonably quick, but it feels much quicker. Shifter works well for me and the EFI has been near flawless. GRUZ3066[1].MOV
  12. kbmb02

    Not for sale

    I have an original Vasek BMW plate frame, we can compare. -KB
  13. Got distracted with other things. Just finished this one. Burled desert ironwood.
  14. that looks a really neat job what are the lengths of your struts? cheers keven
  15. Thanks! I think I should be able to modify the stock rails to use these seats. I grew up bouncing between Dallas and Lake Texoma. I do not miss that heat and humidity! To this day I'll visit in the winter, spring and fall - but NEVER in the summer. Zach
  16. Looking really good maikell77!
  17. Last time I was out to work on my car, I brought a piece of the rear seat bulkhead to repair. As you can see, the bottom edge was totally rotten. YUCK! While most of the bottom inch is going to get cut off, there is a few inches of solid metal I wanted to preserve. On the pic below, you can see the top right. I need to remove the old floor metal that has been spot welded on to the flange. In the next pic you can see where I have wire wheeled the flange and found the spot welds. I've also ground down the metal around the spot welds for easy removal. Next I grabbed on to the remaining bit of floor with a pair of vise-grips and peeled it away from the flange. You can see the nubs of metal left here (and also where I have ground two of the nubs flush.) Take some measurements. Scribe some lines. get ready to start cutting out the cancer. Bend up a new flange out of some 22 gauge steel. I thought I had some 18, but this will work. Clamp it tight to the panel so I can scribe my cut line on to it. Wire wheel through the paint and rust. Start welding. The blow out was my initial tack weld, where I had my welder set to hot. I really want to modify my welder to have infinite temperature variation rather then just the 4 positions it currently has. That's where I left off last night, as it was midnight and I did not want to piss off my neighbors by turning on my air grinder (and I was exhausted). Welds need to be ground smooth and primed. Hopefully the next time I get a work weekend on my car the rear floor will go in and I'll be able to weld in this piece of bulkhead. But better to get this done now for homework, then waste time on a work weekend futzing with it. Zach
  18. Ive been tardy and let two work weekends pass without a blog update. So, first, a new pass side floor. trimming down the panel, and starting fitment and finding out where to cut. Yup... That is a big gaping hole in the floor. Get all the edges clean and ready to be welded in. Both for the panel to be welded in and the floor that needs the patch. Finally ready to begin the fun part. Zap zap zap zap zap. And a little primer to keep the rust from reforming. Part 2 coming up! Zach
  19. I spent the weekend finally getting some work done on my car. Previously I had ordered a trunk kit to replace the rusty metal in the tire well and around the gas tank. This weekend I got the well replaced. The new well was long and designed to be fit to size. I did some initial fitting and cut the lip off where it would be in the way. Next up was cutting out the old well. Fun times in cramped working conditions. Well is out and fitting the new well continues. There was a radius on the old well where it blended with the trunk floor, I removed it with a hammer and dolly to make a better connection when the new well went in. Everything is flat and a LIGHT coating of zinc primer has been sprayed on. You can see holes in the trunk floor where I have been using cleco clips to hold the new well in for fitting. fitted and clamped in place. Ready to be welded. This was as far as I got the first day. Cutting and fitting took about 7 hours of work. Next morning... Zap zap zap zap all the way around. I found a few placed where the zinc had gone on a little thick and was getting contaminated welds from it. So I took it down a bit and my welds got good again. Also welding up the holes from the cleco clips while I go. Well is in and I had plenty of time left to fit the well floor. it was close, but there were lots of gaps I'd need to close with hammer and dolly while welding it in. No room for clecos here, so I just layed in a couple tacks and went for it. Working around the well floor.The copper strip is used as a heat sink that weld won't stick to. The RR Spike is and dolly are both used to move the metal to cloe the gaps. You can see the gaps closing up where while I work around the well. This was a good bit of work. And its in, with literal minutes to spare before I had to stop work, clean up, and make the 3 hour drive back home. I scrubbed it with some ospho to remove the surface rust that had formed, and then sprayed on some more ospho to keep new rust from forming until the next time I could get to it. Next step will be the gas tank surround. Once that's done I can put the gas tank back in, run fuel lines, and no longer have to push the car around to work on it! Zach
  20. This past weekend was another work weekend on the BMW down in Virginia. As usual, it poured. There was thunder and lightning and flood warnings. Almost every time I go to work on the car during the spring summer and fall, it has been pouring, and I'm driving 200 miles from York PA to Charles City VA. Regardless, considerable work got completed. Previously I had cut out and welded in a new spare tire well. This past weekend I was working on the other side, taking care of the gas tank surround. I found lots of thick bondo where someone had gooped it in hoping to hide the rust issues this car has. Lots of drilled out spot welds later, the rusty panel was cut free and I could start cleaning up the remaining flanges. My plan was to use the original spot weld locations for rosette welds. Test fitting the new panel from Wolf could now start. This panel needed less fitting then others I have done, but it still took me several hours to get it fitting tight like it should be. This pic is from early in the process, and you can see just how much further the panel needs to come up. The next few pics show fitment getting much closer! I was very happy with how exact I was able to get my butts to line up where I retained the original sheet metal and cut away from the new panel. Where the shipping tie down was cut away, I also welded a patch there after the new panel was in, but I think I forgot to get pics of that, so there is still a rectangle on the fender that is open in these pics. Now I've sprayed down some 3M weld through primer and gotten the new panel all clamped in. This was as far as I got the first day, but I was very content with it! It takes me 7 hours what my friend does in 3-4, but its fitting well and ready to get burned in. Next day I broke out the MIG and went to town. I welded in the panel using mostly rosettes as planned, but also a few seam welds where it made sense. I learned again (and again) that retired running shoes, while comfortable, don't stop weld splatter. Usually I remember to bring boots, but I forgot them this weekend. Such is life. Then I had to go and do more panel fitment to get the new panel to line up with all the old spot welds behind the rear bumper. This took more effort then I anticipated, but my favorite sheet metal tools (a large ball peen hammer and a rail-road spike) worked wonders here. Yes, at my friends shop I have access to all his fancy metal working hammers and dollies and I use a ball peen and a RR spike. Don't judge me. Hit them with the 3M Weld through, burned in some rosettes and ground them down. I also went back over the spare tire well and added some weld to close all the gaps I found when I looked closely at it. I was rushing last time and the work showed. Now it looks MUCH nicer. Finally, I laid in the gas tank for test fitting and it fit perfect, just as it should. At this point I ran out of time. The welding and cleanup was done, but wanted to do metal prep and spray some epoxy over all the new clean sheet metal. That did not happen. Which only means I'll have some surface rust to clean off the next time I get down there, and I'll spray it then. At this point all the structural rust in the trunk has been resolved. I only have 2 more structural areas to fix, as well as some cosmetic issues, and then all the rust repair will be complete. I'm hoping to do the drivers side rocker the next time I'm down there (july?) which will be the big task. The pass side rocker is the other structural fix, but it will be a much easier cut and weld job. Thanks for reading, and until next time... Zach
  21. Engine wiring is done, engine to body wiring labeled in prep for insertion into the chassis New 3 pin water temp sensor for the Beams Suitable crush washers that fit the new 3 pin sensor Heater hard line that will need to be modified
  22. What motor mounts are you using? Your motor didn’t budge!
  23. So far I've put the fuel tank back in, rewrapped the wiring harness and taken all the brake parts off for reconditioning. But I've just now started taking photos so i'm going to jump in with this one of the firewall with insulation put in. The rotors back from machining: New rubber parts for the callipers: Bearings repacked, rotors and callipers back on: The steel lines in and the reconditioned master cylinder mounted: Took me weeks to get the various bits and pieces for the heater box and rebuild it, unfortunately I was having so much fun with it that I didn't take any photos! The pedal box and the pedals got a bit of a paint job and put back in. The handbrake mount is so flimsy! You can see the crack in it already. The aim of this stage of my restoration has been to put things back together and get the car moving although it has been hard with scope creep getting the better of me at times. I'm aiming to just replace/fix things which are obviously broken or will break very soon, the handbrake mount is one of those things. First a shot of it with the nice cracks showing after the paint stripper, then a shot of the butchered welding job I did on it: The handbrake cables were really stretched so I had to use 2 metal tubes as spacers to get the cables tight enough to lock the wheels. The handbrake switch is a bit of a joke, I have it adjusted now so that after one click of the handbrake lever the circuit is completed but I can see that it wouldn't take much to knock it out of adjustment. I haven't put the rubber boot back on so I'm not sure how it's going to go with the handbrake cable bolts sticking out so much, if it looks like it's going to rip the rubber I might have to undo it all, cut the bolts and shorten the spacer tubes.
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