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  1. Yesterday
  2. Yup, I got them from Ireland Engineering a couple years ago. I don't know if I'll use the fender rubber trim that I bought with it.
  3. Round

    Doing things

    -M20 with 885 head -ITBs came from Taiwan however I am pleased with the construction, they are completely serviceable with quality bearings. They are Efi replacements for Weber 40 DCoES. -I used stripper on most of the flat panels. I was bored in Covid. 🙄. I recently had the remainder of the car, mostly seams and crevices media blasted. (It only cost $400 since I had done most of the hard work.) thanks for the comments and interest. cheers.
  4. ozgeorge

    Doing things

    You stripped the whole car with paint stripper? any air/power tools? which stripper? great job
  5. Mike G

    Doing things

    What’s the specs on the motor? Who’s itbs? Looks good
  6. Last week
  7. May I ask what flares you've chosen? I've bought the Ireland ones myself but they're wrapped up in the basement.
  8. popovm

    Poor planning

    Hey Chris, my suggestion (besides adjusting the idle screw before you start the car, start the car to check the idle, rinse repeat until you get the idle you want) would be to ask this question in the forums instead of your blog so that you get more eyes on it. Do you have a 32/36 carb? Here's a thread on how to adjust the fast idle/choke on that carb. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/219332-fast-idle-stopped-working/
  9. @AceAndrew do you happen to have copies of these pictures? Photobucket nuked them
  10. Lots been going on relative to the 2002! The entire exhaust went out for ceracoating. The heater box and parking brake were installed. The Lynx manifold and single DCOE 45 was swapped for a dual DCOE 40 setup. I bought a stainless steel fuel line from IE that will be swapped in. I'm still looking for a non-plastic brake booster outlet. The pedal box and steering column started coming back together... And the trim was put on and the bumpers were assembled. The headliner installation and glass started this week an
  11. Earlier
  12. bavariaboy

    Rear bumper

    I have paint color envy. Gorgeous.
  13. Hi guys! I’m Erol from Turkey and its my first comment. I don’t want to retrive a dead post but I recently bought a 72’ 1602 and i have major issues with my rear brakes. I want to change to this conversion kit instead of fixing original drum. I have all the donor wv parts. All i have missing is brackets. Does anyone have the dimensions of brackets? If you can mail me i would be appreciate that. My email address is “[email protected]
  14. Great article. For pitted rust I like to use a masonry drill bit and loosen up the rust hiding in the crevices.
  15. What’s the factory color? Chamonix? Manila? Nevada? Sahara? Regards, Steve
  16. Fabulous, Shawn! Besides looking great, you've got nice documentation: One of the Rentrop cards -- the two Rentrop cards have reinforced holes for attachment to the frame, one displays "P.A.R.A." (P.A. Rentrop AG) -- has a June 6, 1969 manufacturing date ("6. 6. 69"). Another tag -- perhaps F.S. Fehrer -- shows a June 1969 date as well ("Juni 69"). Bravo on the seats! Best regards, Steve
  17. Nice. Last summer I put my old klippen seat belts into a bucket of water with Tide detergent to clean them. The difference was amazing and the water was extremely dirty. Very satisfying. I hadn’t considered painting the vinyl. Thanks for the post.
  18. The part that makes less sense is to spray the fuel for 1 second _when the starter is repeatedly energized within seconds of the last time cranked_. But hey, 1960's tech! Cheers,
  19. @JsnPppSo the cold start timer really *is* a timer after all — a one second timer! 😆 Makes total sense to simply not spray fuel when the starter is not turning over. keep posting your results, look forward to your final version! one question: I have a couple of old boards which are kaput, but I figure can be resurrected. Do you think it’s possible to create a step by step testing algorithm that simply uses a regular multimeter to debug which component needs fixing, and list the appropriate replacement component? I’d love to create this with you if you’d be wil
  20. Obrigado John. It took quite a while to get the car to the way it is now, so I appreciate your sentiment.
  21. Thank you! I learned a lot in that effort and enjoyed it too. Interestingly, the 1 second minimum occurs through the CSR. On my test rig when I disconnect the TTS I still get the 1 second spray! But I think they way you do @hchueh, my first thought is that it is the minimum time for the bimetallic to heat up and drop the ground. I also came to the conclusion that it is not so easy to differentiate between a "running engine" and an engine with a key turned to "run". Could sense for RPM, or perhaps spark? The more simple answer is to stop fuel spray if the key is not turn
  22. What a beautiful engine and car!
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