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Minor Progress
So I've been messing around in SolidWorks and this is what I have so far.
Obviously this currently wont work, but it gave me a good idea of sizing and overall design
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Scorching, dry summer for most, BoM warns
Most Australians are in for a substantially hotter and drier-than-normal summer, the Bureau of Meteorology's latest seasonal outlook says.
The bureau's December to February Climate and Water Outlook predicts warmer-than-normal summer days and nights are more likely for all regions except western WA, southwestern Victoria and Tasmania.
While that outlook is less severe for western Victoria than was forecast in November's three-month outlook, BoM climate prediction service manager Dr Andrew Watkins says the odds still slightly favour warmer conditions.
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Limitez votre chiot dans une modeste chambre dans la maison de droite, homeeducated. Il doit avoir avant de nettoyer un terrain rapide que le linoléum. Ababy porte est une très bonne façon de garder votre chien à la place. Avoir Bedor caisse dans un seul coin, bol d'eau dans un autre coin et feedshim dans un autre coin. Assurez-vous, il a des jouets à mâcher
Je suis un amoureux des animaux et obtenir plaisir de bombardements temps avec des chiens de mytwo on est un Rottweiler l'autre est un Husky. Je me réjouis de thetime de la réparation de véhicules et titreTRX Pas Cher commercial. effraction apuppy
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La formation au leadership peut aider les gens à mieux gérer allumés thetools dont ils ont besoin affûtage. Ces outils sont généralement les bestpeople qui sont dans des positions de leadership dans le marché du travail. Le travail classesoften TRX Home sous la forme de séminaires et d'ateliers. Aidez les gens à gainskills et la compréhension sont nécessaires pour les gestionnaires efficaces de histactics. Beaucoup de gens trouvent ces classes comme très utile dans theirefforts à une équipe productive des salariés parviennent à garder effectiveemployees sur le personnel et attirer futures possibilités d'emploi bénéfiques.
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More Photos
There are some more detailed pics of the artwork, will try to add them on here ASAP
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And So The Saga Continues...
Well, it's been a while, but I'm back!
Due to life getting in the way (and having lost my workshop...) I had to put Gretchen into storage for an extended period, but the good news is she's back!
I'm still sorting the new workshop (which is unfortuantley no where near as spacious as the last) and I will begin the last parts of the metal work later this week. I'm hoping I can have it all done in 4 weeks, then she'll be off to be dipped again, and rust treated, and then the next day I'll hit the underbody, interior, engine bay with POR15, give the exterior a quick prime, and then the fun begins!
Realistically, she's still going to be off the road for a long time, but I'm aiming for a rolling chassis by February 2015 and a 1st engine start by April 2015. After that there's only the other 10 million things to do, but with any luck she'll be on the road by July.
I'll start posting photos soon.
Oh, I have a lot of parts for sale, so keep your eye on eBay (aji72) if you're in Australia, and if I get offers from 2002FAQers I will consider them more seriously than random people. No stupid offers please. I've already said no to about 20 people and in case no one has noticed, I'm not exactly in a hurry...
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The First Project For My 2002
I have a 1976 BMW 2002. It was partially restored by the previous owner but still has some cosmetic shortcomings. My first priority, especially now, is to put time and money into performance before working too much on shinning things up. My big projects there include a new clutch (possibly a 5-speed conversion), new suspension, and what was just going to be a carb tune has turned into a planned engine swap and conversion to fuel injection with a turbo charger.
I recently blew a head gasket, at the very least, and stumbled across a running M10 with fuel injection and also a turbo charger. I'm starting this primarily for help and advice on what parts to get and where to get them from but I will also need some technical advice from time to time also.
By the end of the engine work I will definitely have some extra parts that I'll need to pass along to those interested.
Does anyone out there have some good pics of a turbo installed on a 2002? And where do you recommend placing the intercooler?
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The Quest Continues...
Lots of fun things have been happening on the car - here's a run down:
1) The interior's gone! I was able to sell the whole set to another forum member, who's restoring a 1600 with his sons. Happy to see it go to a good home.
Complete interior pulled and off to its new owners
Rather spacious in here...
Meanwhile, that financed a bucket seat (Corbeau FX1 Pro) and a DOT-legal Schroth race harness. I'm finishing up a rear seat delete, custom (and very economical) carpet set, and some home made ultralight door cards (shoutout to my amazing fiance who's helping me sew them). I'll write a more detailed entry just on the interior mods, but the big takeaway is: I managed to shave around 100lbs out of the car! Now we're feeling sporty...
New interior in progress
2) Front suspension overhaul: What was to be a "simple" one day bushing job turned into ball joints, radius rods, a sway bar upgrade, complicated by stuck bolts, rusty mating surfaces, companies sending me the wrong parts... five weeks later, the car was finally driving again :0. I learned a lot about patience on this job... Thanks to Bill Williams and the guys at Ireland Engineering for helping me get this put back together right!
Anyone seen my suspension?
Lower arms going back together
3) Fixed the odometer, follow this wise forum member's advice: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/body-and-interior/odometer-repair-r42
While I was in there I gave the whole instrument cluster a good cleaning and a fresh coat of paint. It's a bit easier on the eyes now.
Instrument cluster all fancied up
4) Fixed my driver's door lock so I can lock/unlock with the key again. Put in a new striker plate and adjusted it so the door will close all the way again. Also got the little plastic pieces ("acorns") so you don't have to slam the doors anymore, either. Doors. They're surprisingly complicated.
5) Replaced my junky plastic gas cap with a used original shiny metal one.
6) Repainted the front grill. Tried my hand at plasti dip... cue debate. I like the stuff, for now anyway. Zero commitment, minimal surface prep, and beautiful results (used it on the instrument cluster refresh too!)
More to come soon! Happy '02ing, everybody.
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Bad Guibo, Exhaust
So after driving the '02 to and from work and around town I've found some more issues that need to be addressed. First off, a bolt in the guibo had been replaced at some point. Either it was torqued down too much or installed wrong but there is a huge split in the rubber so that needs replacing. Also, my wife was following me to work the other day and said there was white smoke coming out the exhaust. It smells like burnt oil, so I bought a compression tester to see if that was the issue. After warming up the engine to do the compression test, I got to looking around and noticed a massive oil leak from around the exhaust header flanges at the cylinder head. Particularly the #4 cylinder. Some snooping around on the FAQ revealed that if sealant isn't used w/ the studs, oil can seep around them. That might be the cause of the white smoke. We'll see. In any case, time to pull the header...
The PO had installed a tubular exhaust header and some glasspacks for an exhaust system. It was too loud so it needed to be replaced anyway. I noticed some gaps in the welds on the header so I thought I might do some finish welding on the header to salvage it. Unfortunately, the build quality is worse than I thought so i'll probably be replacing it. I'm looking at the IE stage 2 header, but I'd like to install a wideband O2 sensor. Any suggestions from other FAQers out there? Will IE install a sensor bung for me? I'd like to have them do it because I only have a MIG and it'll end up looking pretty ugly.
Anyways, the worst news is that the reason oil was leaking so bad from the #4 cylinder was because the upper stud was stripped out of the aluminum in the cylinder head. Dammit! One more thing...
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A Boxy02
I bought my 74 2002 in 2006 from my friend, Ray, for $400. It had been sitting for ~6 years in a shop parking lot. We kicked out the family of cats living inside, sprayed the carb with gas, jumped a used battery and ka-blamo, it started! It was bone stock except for the paint (bummer, because it used to be Fjord blue). I’m not a mechanic, but I always liked working on my own cars, so, I wanted to do as much of this build myself as possible.
After I gutted the interior, my friend, Jim Pierce of Pierce Motorsports caged it from trunk to front rails, incorporating the strut towers and rear shock mounts in the process. The A-pillars and roof are very tight maximizing driver helmet space and interior aesthetics. The boxed door X's are also a favorite of mine. He really does great work. Since the bars in the engine compartment tie into the strut towers and render the stock brake fluid reservoir mount useless, I had to go to plan B. The brake fluid reservoir and bracket from a 77-83 911 bolts on to the 2002 brake booster bracket with very minimal fitting, since they all came from ATE. Doing this, separates the reservoirs of the brake and clutch MCs. I used a 67 912 brake fluid reservoir for the clutch MC and fashioned a bracket for it from the stock air cleaner bracket. It makes for easier bleeding of each system, too.
I've always loved the aggressive, well-proportioned look of the 70s Schnitzer-flared 2002s. So, that would be the basis for my build. I traded a set of tan Recaros for a used set of 4” box flares and air dam from Brian (ibjettin on the FAQ). They were old, but in decent shape for my plans. HarryPR owned them before Brian. I cleaned them up, rebuilt the vents & the nose of the right front flare due to previous damage and started on the rear quarter panel prep for installation. I was able to do this myself after a lot of FAQ & YouTube research for flare installation. I practiced MIG welding for the quarter panel cut outs/inner fender well fabrication. I used 3M panel bonding adhesive for the rears, and the fronts were bolt-on. I enrolled in an auto body shop class at my local community college. I learned a lot, doing the work myself, and had a great instructor, Brent Kooiman (Mr. VW). I used Evercoat fillers and primer and Restoration Shop DTM epoxy primer (after using really bad PCL etching primer & Extreme 2K primer surfacer, bad products). The color is Olso Blue (Restoration Shop single stage paint) a Porsche color from an old Glasuit 55 paint line. I primed using an Iwata gun 1.8 tip & painted it using a DeVilbiss Tekna Prolite gun 1.4 tip. I color sanded (1000, 1500, 2000 grit) & then buffed it out using Evercoat Triple-Cut. From start to finish, the bodywork/paint took almost 4 years to complete using the school’s shop two nights per week. I'm happy with my first ever paint job!
I wanted to build the motor for spirited street driving and possible driver ed events (like Streets of Willow). I tore down the stock 2.0L, had it assessed, bought some new Mahle 9.5:1 Euro tii pistons, a Schrick 292 cam and got everything machined to spec (Jack Fahuna in Van Nuys). I checked things out when it all came back from the machinist, bought an engine kit (bearings and seals and such), had the head completely rebuilt (after finding a good e12 head, mine was cracked) and installed Schrick single valve springs. I started with Solex side drafts, but they were very difficult to get parts for and tune. So, I installed a set of (Spanish) Weber 40s with much better results and tune-ability. I have a set of Italian 40 DCOEs that I will clean and rebuild as the machining is likely to be better than what I have now…maybe? The ignition is MSD 6AL with a Pertronix in the distributor. I used a Crane XR700 before, but could never get it to idle right. With the MSD, it idles just fine. I have another mechanical advanced distributor to re-curve to Ti specs. I think my present Tii curve is causing a mid-RPM ping (advancing too soon?) that's driving me nuts. Update 3/2022: the head Jack Fahuna sold me was machined almost a full millimeter past the maximum allowed for the e12 head. This is likely the reason for my timing issue. I’ve been hunting this down for a while. I installed a 5-speed gearbox which makes freeway cruising a breeze. I upgraded to a 225mm pressure plate and clutch, it hooks up really nicely.
I’ve always liked the adjustability and ease of use from a good coil-over suspension. I went with IE’s shortened/cambered Tii strut bodies & Bilsteins for my front coil-over base (and new ball joints, of course). I recently bought Ground Control upper spring perches and camber plates, the EI upper system left a lot to be desired. I added the their big brake kit that allows use of 13” wheels (I love the old school wheels). While I had the front sub-frame out, I welded a strengthening plate where the motor mount always cracks & stitch-welded the front control arms as well. I double-sheared the rear lower shock mounts on the trailing arms after I boxed them. This added the extra strength needed to anchor the rear coil-overs. The upper mounts were beefed up during the cage build. I went with the IE disc brake setup for the rear while keeping the stock e-brake setup. The stock anti-sway bars were ditched for the IE adjustable units. I changed out the well-worn stock rubber bushings for urethane throughout the car. I removed the short, stock lugs from the front hubs when I changed the bearings and in the rear hubs also when I installed a new set of forged stub axles and bearings. The rears are a direct fit from Summit Racing, part #ARP-100-7717, a Mitsubishi Evo application. The fronts were sourced from Turner Motorsports. They allow me to switch from my 13x8 Panasport C8s to my 13x8 and 8.5 Schmidt TH Lines (with the appropriate small spacers) with no problems. The 3.64 LSD rear differential is from a ‘78 3-series. I welded in the IE rear camber & toe adjustment kit on the sub-frame for extra adjustability.
I relayed the driving lights, the electric radiator fan (with a manual override switch) and the H4s. I upgraded the alternator to an 85amp unit. I installed the 3-core radiator from Silicon Garage. I decided not to install a stereo or center console.
The rear seat has been deleted, custom Porsche RS black felt and Recaro and Momo racing seats were installed (mounted lower than stock) using 5-point Sabelt systems. The headliner is black and was...interesting to install around the tight cage. I wanted a mix of a stock, but spartan interior in black. I rebuilt the door and rear panels using Dave Varco's thin wooden inserts. I removed most all of the stock sound deadening material (~30 pounds!) before applying POR 15 in the minimally surface-rusted floorboard areas. The Optima battery was relocated to the right rear passenger seat area.
I'm still working on some aesthetic details, but I love driving my 02. I’ve learned a lot about 2002s thanks to Jeremy at IE and from the FAQ. I’m appreciative of the flow of 2002 knowledge available!
Cheers!
3/2022: Things to work on:
-rebuild the steering box
-look at new exhaust system
-install new, softer door seals
-look into crank fire ignition and jenvey EFI & fuel control
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Latest Entry
Original Third Owner Car
So there is more to this story about how I happened onto this 02. And more importanly why would a red neck transplant (GA to CA) whose friends all drove mustangs and camaros and vanagans around would even consider a BMW. There are always regrets and that 67 fastback is one. But only slightly since it is very unlikely my dad would not have driven it like he did the 02? A 17 year old car when I bought her was hard to see what the true features of the car were. New radio, cut front springs and faded carpet and new (e30)14 inch coke bottle wheels. The funny thing about this car is that it is as old as I am. My first car I ever bought was this 1970 BMW 2002. I gave it to my Dad who stuck it in a shed for 20 years and prepared it to be restored.
I will post photos as I can cause what blog is sufficient without photos. I will also try and document everything that is original to this car since there are fewer examples. This is as close to my car as I can find and would have to agree that this is also a sterling example. http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2012/01/01/hmn_feature5.html
At the very least the link will live on here for my records.
Items that I will be fixing first.
Removed Fuel tank to clean, seal and paint. Fixed pin hold by local welder.
Replaced drum and wheel cylinders with Tii models.
Front brakes are next to detemine why they are locked up too.
Replace water pump
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First Things First, I Want To Drive It.
I washed it and started an assessment on what the car needed so I could just drive it for a little bit. It would barely run and when braking, it did a wild dive to the right. Not good.
One evening whilst drinking beer with a buddy and looking over the car I started looking under the carb. Broken vacuum hoses and air leaks. I fixed those and tried starting it. She fired right up! It actually caught me out it revved up so quickly. Responded to throttle and idled really well too. I was surprised. Thats where I left the engine for the time being. I had a car to make safe.
Placed a phone call to IE and ordered a bunch of parts. Bushings, control arms, brake lines and some ignition components. I tore the front end apart and refreshed it. The car now ran decent and stopped in a straight line
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Project #1
-Hey just thought I'd update all 0 of you following my page
Though this will still be a good record place for me and pictures that I can refer to later.While my dad was at work I decided to go ahead and plasti-dip the rims on my 1975 2002, and while the car was lifted, take off the front bumper
I started at 2:00pm and with a friends' help finished at around 10:00pm after cleaning up...
(We also wanted to check a braking problem that I had been encountering that forced the car to pull left when braking while going fast, or just braking hard.
My friend recently coated his 18" SAAB rims in matte black paint which looked pretty nice, so I decided to repaint mine from silver to white to match the color of my car (see before and after pictures)
While plasti-dip can be more expensive, it is rubber-based and therefore removable, so unsure of whether I would like the end result, I chose plasti-dip.
I lifted the car myself and being inexperienced almost shattered the oil pan with the floor jack
Luckily I didn't position it there and hit a solid part of the car which worked to support it.After the car was up I took off the wheels and applied 6 coats of plasti-dip to the rims, on my grass, without taping any of the tire off. There are now 4 white circles in our lawn hehe
Thankfully the unwanted excess white paint on the rubber tire peeled easily (pretty cool, actually) and I was left with some solid matte white rims. I also bought some "metallic finish" plasti-dip spray that you add on after coating the rims, but I tested it on some scrap metal and all it did was add sparkles (and a little depth) so unless that's what you want go ahead and buy it
Upon removing the front bumper (which was astoundingly easy, just had to remove battery and use some air-pressurized tools to unscrew the 22mm bolts, which was HARD with tools on the Imperial scale
) We discovered how much cooler it looked without it in person (really, it does). It actually kind of looks like a shark because of the tilted-forward front end with the two lights on either end posing as eyes. It just kind-of looks like a menacing, beastly shark --- Which my friends and I loved, but my mom thought was "brutish" haha.Then came the brakes...
I had already ordered sets of pads for the front disc brakes and thought after replacing them (if only I could) I would paint the calipers and drums lime green or red, maybe orange or yellow, something to stand out behind the freshly coated white rims. I wasted 2 hours because ONE of the four pistons within the caliper on the front left wheel was STUCK out. And I mean STUCK, we tried putting a vise-grip on it and closing the gap with the adjustable circle-screw-thing on the end and made 6 FULL ROTATIONS, to no avail. This was what was causing the "pull to the left" braking problem mentioned earlier.
Long Story short there are 2 ugly holes in the front of my car, 2 squares of residue (from black accordion bumper things) and I need to order a new/have NAPA rebuild my caliper. Looks like my suspension upgrades will have to wait
-Also I got a bunch of cool free bowling coupons from our Local NAPA auto-parts dealer because apparently "no one else would take them", so I got that goin' for me, which is nice. Hmu for free bowling
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After a long break not making progress because I was very hesitant to get the underside and truck area primed and painted, I finally got it done. Weather conditions have been very windy but I just picked a day and did it. Not the best job but certainly a lot better than it was. A couple shots of newly painted areas...
And now after installing the rear end I realized that one of the control arm holes in the rear end bracket is elongated! How serious is this and what to do about it? I assume welding a bracket on the outside is the correct solution. Any comments would be appreciated. See photo.
Also, after installing the drive shaft with two new front guibo's, I see that there is a large gap between the rear guibo and the flange. I did move the center bearing bracket towards the front a tiny bit to put pressure on the tranny but certainly not a 1/4"! Nothing else has changed. Any ideas where the slack came from?
I am certainly looking forward to getting the rear end all back in the car soon. I drove the car only about 1 mile total since getting it and all these improvements should make a huge difference!
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Solved Cooling Problem
Recently bought a '72 2002 that ran hot, temp gauge near red, so I replaced thermostat with no improvement. Went ahead and removed radiator and took it to local radiator shop. The guy took one look inside and said it was 90 % blocked and needed to be rodded out. I said okay and left it with him, but he called me later that day and said I had some corrosion along the bottom and it should be re-cored. He went on to explain that the radiator had 3 rows of 1/4 inch tube but he couldn't get 1/4 inch tube any more but that he could install 2 rows of 5/8 inch tube and I would have better cooling. Since cooling capacity is related to surface area, and surface area varies with the square of the radius, I did some quick calculations and figured he may be right, so I said go ahead.
The rest of the story is that the car now runs very cool, temp gauge hardly ever makes it to the halfway point, even sitting in Dallas traffic on a hot afternoon. The guy charged my $300 but I couldn't be more pleased.
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Latest Entry
It Begins
This is my 73 “base” 2002 getting a little freshening up… years ago I put stuff into a blog on this forum but I can no longer find it under the new format, no biggie… At the time a friend and I fixed some rust here and there (with dishwasher metal, sorry), I replaced both trunk and engine lid (hopeless rust around the trim holes), and my mechanic did a lot of invisible upgrades (later car brakes, 5 speed, EFI with DTA computer, head, radiator, exhaust, stuff I forget)… I finished her with Aardvark Recaros and Rota wheels (which I love but don’t really fit as you can tell from my car’s ridiculous stance)… At the time it dyno’d at Tii levels - a hoot - and that would be “Tii with perfect injection” ;-) I was also completely upside down on the car, so I took it easy and drove her happily like this for years, which was great because the paint was just crappy enough that I wasn’t worried about it, but good enough from 6ft away!
But the time has come to finish things off… I’m moving cross country (FL to CA) and losing my awesome garage… the car had to go in storage for several months before the actual move. Given the cost of classic car storage and the speed of restoration shops, I figured if I gave it to them to restore, I’d save 4-5 months of storage fees ;-) That’’ll buy me some chrome !
Here she is during the move. I think Uhaul stole the Inka palette for their boxes
So this time around the old paint layers come off: my average repair-respray, the PO’s terrible peeling respray, and the bondo…
At the same time, we’re redoing the headliner, shortening the rear bumpers to Euro size (closing the US side-hole), replacing all the rubber, courtesy of the irreplaceable Mr Blunt.
We already found some decent bondo sculptures around the fender I did not touch last time
Rust however appears pretty limited to the windshield surround (plus pinhole on the back glass):
plus a weird spot in the middle of the roof of all places. There was more initially but this is round 2 and I am not expecting too many surprises… Famous last words.
Some straightening required on this panel mostly… She was hit in the rear quarter at some point and the repair was sloppy, flatness wise…
Right now we’re having fun matching Inka… My guy is good and cheap (FL labor being 1/2 of CA) but not using a factory paint brand and there aren’t conversions for Inka under sherwin williams. At least nothing that looks remotely close. We did 3 test shoots so far and all were pathetically brown-orange. We’re also gonna redo the engine bay because it’s nasty… brake fluid damage, dirt, half respray….
You can see the respray cracking over the old stuff. That sticker is under where we found a shiny pristine Inka sample we’ll scan and match. I’m not trying to do a concours car, just be in the ballpark
I hope those stickers (all of them) can be sourced… I’m also debating the dash - mine is cracked and has a plastic cover on it. Both to hide the crack and the seatbelt warning light.
I know it’s time to redo it but it’s not their specialty, if all I’m saving is a windshield removal, I’ll wait till I can sort this out…
More to follow…
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Latest Entry
Pictures
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5Erses9jaLJQ1Vlc1R5SWRYaEU&usp=sharing
There are some more pictures of the car. As far as modifications go, it has a 32/36 Weber downdraft, ANSA exhaust, larger swaybars, Bilsteins, and performance springs. 14" Panasport wheels. It has a 5-speed from an E21. The interior has Recaros.
For the engine, I'm going to have it rebuilt this winter due to worn piston rings. I'm planning a 292 cam, 9.5:1 pistons, and IE exhaust. For carbs, I still haven't decided between a 38/38 weber downdraft or two 40DCOE sidedrafts. But, I have a lot of time to decide.
As far as suspension goes, my plans for the car include even larger swaybars, different springs (IE Spring & Swaybar Kit), and larger brakes. I'm going to keep the Bilsteins, as I'd just be replacing them with the same set.
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Gutting The Interior Not Fun!
I gutted the interior. removed all of the seats & seatbelts.. I have yet to remove the headliner and center console. gutted the trunk as well. I have to head to work so im gonna contemplate my options on how to fix these rust spots if anyone has any suggestions please feel free to comment!
spare tire rust
trunk rust
Driver side floor pan rust
rear seat and arch rustdriver side rear floor pan
passenger side rear floor pan rust
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Door Check U Bracket Replacement
I am looking for the best way to replace the door check u bracket on the door frame.
I do not see where it goes in at from the back side
any help would be great
Jacob
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Zurück Nach Trx Force Kit Hause
Kniebeugen sind große Körpergewicht Übungen und einer der besten Workouts für Frauen, um ihre Beine zu stärken. Um die großen Muskelgruppen der oberen Schenkel und Gesäß, sowie eine Vielzahl von stabilisierenden Muskeln zu isolieren. Die Grund hocken kann durch Stehen mit den Füßen schulter auseinander, mit Rücken gerade, Kopf nachTRX Deutschland oben (nicht nach unten), die Hände hinter dem Kopf, und halten Sie Ihr Gewicht mit den Fersen auf dem Boden über die Beine zentriert ist, durchgeführt werden, beugen Sie langsam Knie, bis die Oberschenkel und Po sind parallel zum Boden. Halten Sie diese Position für einen Moment, und dann langsam in die Ausgangsposition zurück.
Ausfallschritte sind eine weitere Übung, die wirklich bekommt Ergebnisse. Starten Sie stand mit den Füßen nur wenig TRX Workoutauseinander. Halten Sie Ihr Gewicht gut zentriert, so dass Sie das Gleichgewicht nicht zu verlieren. Machen Sie einen langen Schritt nach vorn entweder mit Bein, bis das Knie des anderen Beines den Boden berührt, halten Sie die Position für einen Moment, und verlagern Sie Ihr Gewicht nach hinten, zurück nach TRX FORCE Kit Hause aufrechte Position. Dann wiederholen Sie mit dem anderen Bein. Das ist wirklich das Ziel der Oberschenkel (vorne und hinten) und Ihr Hintern.
Kniebeugen und Ausfallschritte, um kombinierte Angebote zu den besten Workouts für Frauen, Ton machen und stärken Sie Ihre Unterkörper, die oft ein Gebiet, dass die meisten Frauen wirklich wollen Ziel und Verjüngungskur.
Jetzt denken Sie daran, dies ist nur eine kleine Auswahl, aber wenn Sie zumindest diese vier Übungen ein paar Mal in der Woche, mit ein paar guten Linien und sicherzustellen, dass Ihre Herzfrequenz, Seilspringen, Laufen durch Drehen zu bekommen oder einfach gemischt tun, indem er zwei oder drei Sätze von diesen 4 Übungen in ziemlich schneller Folge, Sie beginnen, um schöne Ergebnisse zu sehen.
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Info And Parts
I automatically sent the vin to info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com to find out as much info as i could about the car. Here's the response i got.
The BMW 2002 US VIN ******* was manufactured on November 24th, 1972 and delivered on November 30th, 1972 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Inka, paint code 022.
Unfortunately i couldn't find any info on the original interior of the car.
this is my initial look over of the car. Very small amounts of rust, no rust in the rear shock towers and no rust in the rear subframe. There is some rust tho, and the most of it is from the piece that is not original to the car, the front end. Also over the years someone decided to cut plenty of holes for speakers.
Small hole rear seat area
slightly larger hole passengers footwell
Worst of the rust
Since the car doesnt have anything iv'e been randomly buying parts.
Monaco front seats
Went to the local yard and got some rear e24 seats
They clean up very well, but they are the wrong color.
Also got some rear door cars in near perfect condition. No pic yet.
Some tailights
Rear emblem that i may run or not, I'm not decided on that yet.
Authentic zender front spoiler
While purchasing the zender spoiler i stumbled across this. Its a 1976 2002 with a lot of negatives for trying to restore. It has bad rust in the rear shock towers, rear subframe and some other areas. To top it off there is no title. But the plus for me is that its a complete car, even the interior is intact right down to the shift knob.
Well that's where i leave y'all for now. I've only had the car for 2-3 months and i feel like i have made a lot of progress in trying to find parts for it.
I am undecided on an engine and transmission, but i am leaning more towards a turbo m10 with a 5 speed. Any other ideas?
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Latest Entry
The Start
I wasn't going to do a blog. But I think I should, a little bit for myself so I can go back and see all the work I've done, and a little bit to give others ideas and help. There will be plenty of pictures in the coming post, and I'll try to document as much of it as I can.
My short term goals are simple. I'm a 27 year old college student (Spent the last 7 years in the military) so money isn't abundant. For this reason it may be a slow build, and I'll be doing *most* of the work myself. I intend to keep this a driving project, with only quick small things at a time. It isn't my daily driver, but I get unmotivated quick if I can't drive it.
The first phase of this project will be to fix anything broken. When I can I will improve whatever is broken, but it may just be fixed with stock parts. For example I replaced my radiator with an aluminum one because the price difference was not huge, and being in Phoenix I take my cooling system seriously.
The second phase will be where I start improving various things.
The third phase, which is far down the road will be to pull it off the road for a year or so and refresh everything. Don't expect this within the next few years.
This is what I'm starting with. Pictures taken from the day I got it:
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Latest Entry
The Beginning | Introduction
I don't know if I ever formally introduced myself. My name is John, I haven't been very active on this forum because I've been at school and unable to get to work on this car. So a little story to get everyone caught up...
March 2013: Check Out, Pay Up, Trailer Out…
After countless hours searching the Internet, making calls, sending emails and traveling, I finally thought I had found 'the one'. The car was close to home, only a five hour drive to VT, so my dad and I went up to check it out. It ended up looking like a great candidate for a project so we paid up and trailered a malaga 5-speed 1975 BMW 2002 back home.
The car from those pictures is what it looks like now/how I bought it; luckily there is not much rust to repair.
I was originally going to use the car as a building block, restore it and sell it so I could buy a BMW E9. Yeah well that plan has changed... and changed a lot.
November 2013: I D E N T I T Y C R I S I S.
I got lucky with this one, a good friend of mine sent me a listing on Craigslist. It immediately had my attention and ideas were formulating by the second, so you could say I was slightly interested haha. Without hesitation I emailed the seller. Within a couple of weeks I had traveled up to Albany to check out the parts; I knew I had a project car on my hands but this... this sealed the deal, thought I might as well learn how to do some bodywork and fiberglass work right? It was like a game of Tetris getting the AC Schnitzer flare kit into the back of my noble-steed, the SRT4.
The car has the potential to look like the classic racecars that shocked the world!
The kit was back at my house, and yes this car is going to be sitting a bit wider than normal with the box kit going on!
These were some of the coolest 2002s back in the day, the small Schnitzer race team created these widebodies that their racecars wore in the 60's and 70's. The small German race team created a spectacular machine that won the German touring car championship, it was a 2002ti. The sight of gold BBS hunkered down under the widebody created the signature image of Schnitzer.Sorry all the photos are really busy, it was at night and the ISO setting was really high...
What are other plans for the car? Guess everything will be determined from here on out. Some more goodies may be in the works within the next couple of months, but I have too many ideas to write down at the moment. Definitely thinking about keeping the classic motorsports trend going with this car.
Some more parts that I'll be utilizing/sorting through like a new clutch, air filter, fan, a couple of intake manifolds, a steering wheel, valve cover, head-liner, sun visors, too many little bits and pieces for the interior.
^The bottom right of this last picture, there are some of the M-Motorsport/2002 Turbo stripes, came with the car, definitely thinking about using them, very tempted for sure!
Ohhh yeah and these weird looking round taillights... I think I will be converting it to a Roundie; adding a little bit more of that classic touch to the car but I am not 100% definite on this plan.
Thank you for looking, I hope you enjoyed this bit so far and you'll be seeing more of this little '02 in the upcoming months and years probably!
Source: New Member | Sharkbait. '75 2002
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Latest Entry
First Update!
Happy Good Friday everyone
I popped down the car today. Didn't get much done as I was on my own for the most part, but I got some pictures nonetheless.
And you'll have to excuse the welding. It's my first time!
I nominate the peacock for the nosiest bird award!! I reckon one of em must have arc eye, he was standing so close!!
Cut the rear panel off to access the boot floor. Panel was rotten anyway
Cut a little section out to replace
I'll sort this side out on Sunday
Welded in a new piece.
This little fucker was practically on my lap whilst welding!
Now there's some nooks and crannies I need to get to. I'm struggling to get into panel joins to clean with a knot wheel on a grinder. Any opinions on what to buy to get in the corners etc?
I'm talking areas like these
And tucked away again (pain in the arse getting it in and out!)
I know it's not much, but thanks for looking anyway.
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Asembling Megasquirt
After mass purchasing what I figured were all of the parts I could possibly need for the project, I got down to soldering.
The specific megasquirt kit I bought was the MS-II PCB3.0 kit w/ case:
It comes with all of the components, meticulously organized and labeled, to fully assemble the ECU. Just add solder, and time.
I also highly recommend the unfortunately named "stimulator" for testing your circuits as you go:
The stim is also a good warmup soldering project if you're new to soldering or haven't done it in a while. It's best to practice on something smaller and less consequential than your ECU if it's been a while since the last time you soldered a PCB.
I actually also bought the MS Relay board, but as I'll address in a future post I think that was a big mistake. The relay board is just an added complexity / failure point and is difficult to rule out when you're tracking down electrical noise, etc.
[it's also possible to buy all of these things preassembled, for slightly more money. But where's the fun in that?]
Anyway. The assembly went very smoothly for me. I used the instructions from megamanual.com but later ended up getting most of my information from the forums at msextra.com. In retrospect, I would recommend sticking with one documentation source, to avoid running in to conflicting information. Therefore, because it's a more active community, I recommend sticking with documentation from http://www.msextra.com starting with the build guide here:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/build_manual.htm
There are a few choices that must be made at build time. I've gone back and unsoldered things several times but the ones I settled on are:
--low-power, logic-level spark outputs driven from the D14 and D16 LED signals as described here: http://msextra.com/doc/general/sparkout-v30.html
--VR Sensor trigger input
--4-wire stepper-motor idle control
I've got a few pictures from the process of soldering up my MS board, but I think the pictures in the build manual are more helpful anyway so I'm not gonna bother posting mine unless anyone has questions.
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) We discovered how much cooler it looked without it in person (really, it does). It actually kind of looks like a shark because of the tilted-forward front end with the two lights on either end posing as eyes. It just kind-of looks like a menacing, beastly shark --- Which my friends and I loved, but my mom thought was "brutish" haha.
rear seat and arch rust
These were some of the coolest 2002s back in the day, the small Schnitzer race team created these widebodies that their racecars wore in the 60's and 70's. The small German race team created a spectacular machine that won the German touring car championship, it was a 2002ti. The sight of gold BBS hunkered down under the widebody created the signature image of Schnitzer.
