A fellow ‘02-Montrealler (Pierre*) was nice enough to give me the lower portion of his rear bench (he had an extra one). This put me a step closer to finally installing a rear bench...
So, now I just needed to acquire the upper portion of the rear bench plus, some new padding/foam and the all-important vinyl upholstery.
I stripped down the rear base, the old “horsehair” padding is pretty gross. I wire-brushed it, degreased it, used a metal etch and gave it a couple of coats of matt black.
I ordered the under-pad, foam and vinyl from aardvark racing.
Unfortunately, I did not take any photos of process/install but it’s pretty straight forward. I installed the under-pad, letting it hang over the edge of the seat frame, then I sowed it in place with a few loops every 3-4 inches around the entire circumference. I cut the foam pad to size and held it in place with about 8 tie wraps so it wouldn’t move while I wrestled the vinyl upholstery on.
The brackets which held the top of the backing in place were remove I fabricated some new brackets for the upper portion with some l-brackets from Home Depot.
On Friday, I finally installed the rear bench. I’ll need to fix that wrinkle in next spring.
I was supposed to un-register the car for winter storage for October 31st, but I messed up.
At the beginning of October, I started the online process but didn’t complete it because I didn’t have my registration certificate with me. My memory sucked and I had thought I completed the process… then I woke up on November 1st realizing I messed up, so I had the 2002 available until Nov 30th.
Yesterday, I went through my short winterize checklist before pushing the car to the back of the garage.
Gettin' er goin'
The Eurokracy car show takes place the week before the Canadian Formula 1, Grand Prix. Now that I have been invited/accepted in the show in shine, it was time to make sure my car was up for it, and the long drive.
I hadn’t yet started the car with the new Spanish DCOEs but with 10 days until the show I was feeling confident.
So here’s where the new trouble starts. Show (minus 2 weeks) Documented in my “help” thread (starting on page 5) https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/183166-help-getting-it-going-timing-weber-dcoe/?do=findComment&comment=1177820
I finally got the 123tune, Spanish DCOEs + new throttle linkage installed... Time to fire her up and drive off in to the sunset.
Unfortunately, things did not go as planned, I could not get the car to idle. After playing around with the carbs and turning the idle speed screw in a fair amount (up to 1,800rpm+), I was able to “idle.” Once the motor was running, so was the fuel, dripping out of stack #4. I assumed the leak was associated with the float level, which I reset that using the dipstick method. Still a fuel leak, I rechecked fuel pressure regulator setting, still had a leak.
After some investigation and the purchase of a VAC gauge (+ help from 02 folks), it turned out to be reversion and the fuel was actually being pushed out of stacks. I followed a lot advice from the thread to pinpoint the issue with no luck. Finally, 3 days before Eurokracy I gave up on my investigation. I decided to put the old Italian carbs in, I wanted to see if the problem still existed. It did not, no more fuel leak and motor idles at 900rpm.
So, if I wanted to make the drive to the show, I would have to keep these on and deal with the new carbs later.
Wednesday night (show minus 3 days), after fooling around with the idle mixture screw, I took the car for the first spin of 2017, it was also the first time I drove it with a heavy foot. I took the car up to 100kms (60mph) on the service road, it was fun and no issues. Finally, some good luck.
It didn’t make sense to me that swapping the settings from the old DCOEs to the new would give me this much trouble. I contacted redline, Bud Pauge has been helpful. He suggested a few things and recommended that I order the low speed idle kit. I ordered it and will get to this in the future when I have some free time… and after the show. If none of that works, he said I could ship the carbs to him for inspection.
On Thursday (show minus 2 days), I was riding high from my little drive, so I decided to purchase my Eurokracy show ticket (entering in the show and shine). The plan for Saturday was to leave Dorval, pick up Ernest in Laval, then Kosta in Blainville, then drive to Eurokracy in Mirabel. On Thursday I managed to install the seatbelts for the back “seat” of the car, and paint the wiper arms which hadn’t yet been installed.
Friday (show minus 1 day), in classic Ernest fashion, Ernest bailed on the show, meaning I wasted time installing the seatbelts for nothing. Never the less, I took the afternoon off to prep the car for the show.
I installed the IE strut brace.
Step one, wash it. I used the chemical guys snow canon with their honeydew soap.
I started with the mothers paint polish, while Kosta worked on detailing the interior. I went to soccer, had a few beers, came back to finish off the job with some mothers carnauba wax. I polished the wheel lips, and the steering wheel center. I dressed the tires with me meguiar’s high gloss endurance gel.
I installed a commemorative sticker I made to celebrate the 2002’s restauration.
It was almost 3am, so I went to bed.
Saturday morning (show day).
As I mentioned, I live in Dorval (Montreal), Kosta lives in Blainville and Eurokracy was in Mirabel.
I took off on highway 20 e and then highway 13 n, stopping at Ultramar on the 13 for some gas. When you’re doing 110km in this car it feels like you’re doing 140km.
Everything was going smoooooooooth until I got back on the highway from the gas station. The accelerator pedal popped off the nubs!! I managed to avoid pulling over and just used the pedal rod behind the pedal to continue the drive to Kosta’s. Once at Kosta’s I popped the pedal back on.
~35kms down with a bit of rain. Photo in front of Kosta’s place, taken by Kosta.
Next stop eurokracy!
We headed back to the highway for iCar, after another ~22kms we arrived at the eurokracy traffic jam.... waited an hour and 15 minutes to make it past the entrance and park in the show and shine section. The whole drive went smoother than I could have hoped.
Photo of us arriving taken by @flatbroke_
Kosta suggested I lock the doors before leaving the car to chat with old friends. I locked the driver door, trunk and then the key got stuck in the fn’ passenger door. Something which had never happened before. After 20 minutes of trying different things, the key had, had enough and snapped. Luckily Ernest who was probably not going to come to the show, went to a spare at my place and showed up... AND TOTALLY REDEEMED HIMSELF!
Photo taken by Pri
Met some old friends and chatted with some good people. It’s a cool show, the setup, location and the crowd. The Eurokracy boys do a great job and help “put Montreal on the map,” we’re fortunate to have such an event. I got some free merch for being invited to the show and shine which was pretty cool and unexpected.
I had to take off at 3:15pm because of some family obligations (which I was late for, anyway).
Photos of us leaving taken by JPL Photography
Photo taken by Ernest who may have gotten a photo radar ticket on highway 15s.
Losers can be Winners!
The guest judge for 2017 was Ezekiel Wheeler (Contributing Editor, European Car Magazine). Apparently it was entirely up to him if my 2002 was worthy of a prize.
I couldn’t make it back for day 2 (Sunday), but I received a text from Rick informing me that I won “Best Euro,” which I assume is like a the best of the rest, like if you don’t win best of your category you have a chance going up against the other 2nd places. I picked-up the trophy from Rick... and paid him off .
Here it is mounted above my back door in the garage:
It's been a while...
The ’02 was stored in my garage during the unpleasantly long winter, here’s a shot prior to putting the cover on.
A few semi-exciting off season acquisitions.
New pair of 45DCOEs from Redline (allautomotive)
123Ingition Tune+ distributor, in on the group buy.
New rain gutter trims
A KMPH speedometer from Netherlands
Also during the winter/spring I took care of a few tasks to help things progress.
I re-re-upholstered my sun visors, I didn’t like my previous job with the same fabric as the headliner, so redid it in vinyl.
- - With the same vinyl, I made a small cover to go below the handbrake, not because I thought it was necessary but because when I was installing the center console last year, a screw pulled a thread in the carpet L... which will now be hidden by the vinyl cover
- - I removed the kmph speedometer from the cluster and verified and then repaired the odometer.
- - I made a wire harness for the 123ignition, because harnesses are cool.
Finally with the snow ending I rolled the 2002 into its “spot.”
- - I installed the new gutter trims. I first smeared some grease on the roof’s metal gutter lip before popping the trim on, rust protection.
- - I used and old quilt to make fender protectors while I work on the car because I’m a cheapo J.
- - I installed the new 123ignition distributor
- - Adjusted the valves (aka gave the car a VJ), I hadn’t done this last year, an oversight on my part.
- - Started the car to confirm the new distributor functioned properly, then started on swapping out the settings from the (unmatched) Italian DCOEs, to the new Spanish DCOEs.
- - Removed the Italian DCOEs and started to swap the settings to the new Spanish DCOEs. Installed new Spanish DCOEs
- - I ordered a new throttle linkage because I wasn’t happy with what I had. Instead of re-installing what I had, I decided to wait a week for the new throttle cable.
- - During that “unused week,” I took the cluster out to swap in the KMPH speedometer. I added an extra ground on the back of the cluster, like other have done, for good measure.
- I had originally planned on installing the rocker trim but...
o I sprayed the rocker with black plastidip, it’s a unpermanent way of getting the job done, plus I’ve always wanted to try this stuff.
o After getting the job done and installing the rocker trim, I decided I preferred how the it looked without the trim. And unfortunately because I didn’t do a perfect masking job figuring the “line” would be hidden behind the trim, I had to redo it.
o I removed the plastidip and reapplied it with a nice crisp-line. This stuff is cool.
- - Over a week later, I received the new linkage and fabricated a throttle cable bracket which attaches to the transmission. I used some scrap aluminum for the job, it’s times like this I’m glad I keep garbage lying around (piece of aluminium).
I also had to shave velocity stack #3 slightly, in order to clear the brake booster
A couple of guys I know (mainly Rick), throw a car show every year just north of Montreal, in Mirabel. It’s actually the biggest car show in Canada. This year my buddy, Kosta, who assisted with the restoration project (especially the dismantling, cutting and welding) was peer pressuring me to enter the show & shine. In order to enter you need to be “invited” as one of the Top 100 entries. I don’t feel my BMW is anything special, I mean it’s special to me because all the work I put in to it , plus everything I know, I learned because of it.
After some more peer pressure, I filled out the entry form and a day later I received my invitation to the show J...Luckily I did not immediately purchase the entry ticket because this was prior to knowing there would be issues with my new Spanish DCOEs
bumm, bumm, bumm, bummmmm... To Be Continued...
Day 77 – Fully assembled.
I re-installed the trims on the hood and was ready to install it on the car. The installation/adjustment took longer than expected but it’s done now.
I actually prefer the side profile of the car without the hood, more sleek.
Things To Work Out
My A/F gauge stopped working, the fuse had blown, I replaced the fuse but the readings are not good, it almost constantly displays 19.0 (which doesn’t make sense). I contacted support, recalibrated it with fresh air but something is still wrong. It will be bench tested...eventually.
Still trying to tune the Webers but without the O2 sensor things are even more difficult. The engine idle speed, upon cold start-up is super slow, like 300 rpm and it struggles to stay alive. So I increase the idle speed with the idle speed screw, but once it warms up the motor speeds up to 2,500rpm. Not cool, man, not cool.
The Oil temperature gauge is powered but the temp doesn’t increasing, need to check the wire for continuity (from the sender to the gauge).
Throttle cable adjustment, there’s a little unwanted slack on the cable, no big deal.
I currently have the rear bench delete installed but I’d like to get a rear bench, you know for all the bitchez I’ll be picking up.
New aluminum gutter trim is no longer NLA, so I got my cousin at BMW to hook me up. Should be in, in a couple of weeks... if he comes through.
I took the car out for an official “everything is assembled” drive around Dorval, mostly a scenic route drive from my place to my parent’s. I was slightly rushed because I had dinner plans but things felt good, no unexpected vibrations.
With the front bumper deleted, I find the front end lacking a something to keep it from looking like a watercraft. I bought the Ireland Engineering Front Air Dam in January (2016) with plans of installing it unpainted (with the ‘Turbo’ rubber trim and rivets). The black plastic matches the rear bumper. I still need to put a little more thought in to this and probably won’t do anything until next spring. I also need to decide between adhesive and rivets.
I was also was thinking about installing some (yellow lens) driving lights. This is why I pre-wired a switch in the center console and a wire sitting behind the grill just waiting for some action.
Lower Stainless trim
I think the car looks better without them, so I will search from flush some plastic plugs and paint them Verona red.
BBS RM Center Caps
BBS center caps have always been a thing with me I find the wheels look better without the ring/large center cap so I ordered some small centers to fit in the smaller hole, maybe that with a combination of painting the center black, we’ll see.
I’m always on the lookup for some light 13” wheels.
Would I do this all again? Yes, but I would have liked to know what I was getting into when I bought the car… although, if I knew, would I have bought it, probably not. So, one could say things worked out well.
Should you do it? Yes, I went in to this project with limited mechanical knowledge (possibly an understatement), I didn’t know things. Now, well, I still don’t know things but I have completely disassembled and reassembled a BMW 2002. There is still a lot to learn about this car especially in the engine bay but if you’re not afraid to get your hands dirty, DO IT! Whether you restore an old BMW or an old Kia, I'm pretty sure you'll enjoy it.
Is It Really Finished?
Of course not, it will never be. I'll always be finding new things to change, improve, repair... that's the whole fun of owning a "project."
Thanks to Kosta & Ernest (& Mike), especially for helping with the disassembly. I know it was tough for them to come give a hand during the reassembly since they both had a newborn, together, obviously. Although Kosta was very helpful installing the PITA sub-frames. Ernest still hasn't seen the car since it's been back from paint .
Thanks to the good people on BMW2002FAQ, really a fantastic resource.
Thanks to everyone who followed my build thread!
...an even bigger thanks to those who liked my posts!
... ...and an even bigger thanks to those who posted comments!
...and finally, here are a couple of shot from a little drive on October 30th (before the Nov 1 winter storage).
Winter is coming. (Day ~69er-76)
Braking my heart
It seems that I have 2 leaking fittings on the front calipers, I think the bleeders aren’t seating properly. I managed to stop the leaks but it’s not a permanent fix. I believe I have Tii brakes which were spaced for vented rotors. I might need to get some professional help with those but I will leave that to next year because winter is coming. I’ll try buying some new quality bleeder fittings first.
I’ve been messing around with my timing light and playing with the adjustment to the Webers. I’ve been getting a lot of helpful advice from the good ole boys on BMW2002FAQ. It’s difficult for me, the timing numbers I’ve found don’t seem to work well with the motor. I’ve changed the distributor cap and rotor, plus ordered some new spark plug wires. My DCOEs are not a matched set (came with car), so things are extra difficult and I’m weighing-out some options. Every time I take a step forward something pushes me at minimum 1 step back, it’s very frustrating.
Interior Pretty Stuff
The Center Console from Hell.
The vinyl on the sides of the center console was thin and also wrinkly, I decided I was going to recover it with some fresh vinyl. I had just enough vinyl left over to recover both sides of the center console.
Unfortunately I ended up having to recover the both sides a second time because as it turned out I didn’t pull the fabric far enough on the backside where the center console face sits (containing radio, gauges, etc), thus staples and slits in the vinyl would be visible in the front. I discovered this during the test fit, so I went to purchase some more vinyl, un-stapled it all and redid it.
New Vinyl (After):
I used some thin MDF, and reinforced it with a 2nd layer in a few areas. The reason I went with thin MDF was because I needed a bend and MDF is pretty easy to work with.
For those who want to attempt something similar, here’s a collage of photos, I also wrote out some of the steps I did below the image.
- Photo 1: I traced out the shape of the center console on the MDF, including the cut-outs for the 3 VDO gauges and the Stereo.
- Photo 2: I cut those out with the jigsaw.
- I then plotted the toggle switches and hazard switch.
o For the toggle switches, I found them to be too pronounced, they would stick out more than I liked (from console face). So, instead of cutting a small hole to secure the switch (with the threaded plastic nut), I cut the silhouette of the full switch. The plan was to glue a 2nd piece of MDF behind the face where the switched would be secured with the plastic nut. This would recess the switches a little.
- Photo 3: I cut 3 pieces of MDF to the shape of the bend I needed.
o I used a small amount of hot water on a rag to lightly moisten the console MDF where the bend was needed.
o I bent the console MDF a little by hand, then clamped the it to 3 pieces I cut with some glue to secure the shape.
- Photo 4: I added to pieces to extend the sides of the console, made a tray for the stereo to rest and added the toggle switch backing piece.
- Photo 5: I applied and sanded a light coat of body filler to fix any imperfections and provide a smooth surface.
- Photo 6: I applied 3 light coats of satin black spray paint.
- Photo 7: I applied 3 coats of matte clear coat
- Photo 8: The console was finished and ready for another test fit but I managed to knock it off my workbench. Most of the damage was at the top left.
o I did not want to start from scratch, so I repaired the gauge using some MDF glue and then more body filler.
- Photo 9: I applied 2 coats of satin black, there wasn’t much paint left in the can. Unfortunately the nozzle sprayed out some globs of paint and I also ended up with a nice drip mark.
o I sanded the drip mark and other imperfections with a fine grit paper.
- Photo 10: I applied 3 light coats of matte clear coat and for some reason there was a chemical reaction which made cracks throughout.
- Photo 11: Sanded the paint cracks away, applied 3 more light coats of clear coat and wet sanded the few imperfections.
- Photo 12: Test fitted the everything in the completed center console.
Not in collage:
o The wires for the switches were too short to be able to wire up it up before positioning it, needed a couple of inches of play, went out to buy a wiring harness for the switch and decided to do the same for the gauges.
o Used double sided tape under the stereo and installed an L-bracket behind the stereo to hold it in place.
o Pre-drilled 6 holes (3 per side) to hold the center face in place through the vinyl sides.
o Installed a aluminium bracket across the top of the console which with a hole to secure the center console to the dash (using an existing u-clip).
o Installed an L-bracket in front of shiter to secure console to the tunnel with a self tapping screw. The self tapping screw pulled a tread from the new carpet and there is now a thin line missing loops in the carpet (right in front of shifter).
- I think I will make some kind of vinyl cover for this area and try to make it look like it should be there.
I made a new parcel shelf cover out of some ¼ MDF with black vinyl. I used the old piece as a template, then cut out place for the speakers. I cut the full outline of the speakers, so that the speaker cover would be recessed and not sitting on top of the parcel shelf, thus less pronounced.
Refreshing the Door Card backings
The old door cards weren’t in the best condition, especially the driver side so I decided to make some new door cards out of ¼ plywood.
Original Driver side old door card.
I removed the door card cover carefully and used it as a template, I stenciled all the holes/shapes on the new plywood. I noticed some of the holes aren’t used/necessary, so I didn’t plan on cutting those out.
Using a jig saw and hole saw, I cut out the shape and pieces.
The plywood is slightly thicker than the stock cardboard so the door card clips do not fit well. I found a trick, by inserting a screwdriver in the hole at an angle, I apply pressure to the back and front (of the plywood) simultaneously and twist the screwdriver 360’. This removes the top veneer of the birch plywood. It’s not pretty but it’s effective.
I test fitted the door card to the door, everything lined up well.
I reattached the top portion of the door card skin by bending the metal tabs back out. I used a flat head screw driver with a hammer.
I sprayed some 3m Super 77 spray on the plywood and door card skin for good measure, then I stapled the skin to the back of the door card.
Door Card Install
I had previously adjusted both the driver and passenger windows it was annoying and time consuming. Now before installing the door cards, I needed to make sure I had the windows adjustment as best as possible, I spent about another 30 mins on the passenger window over the long weekend (Canadian thanksgiving). Once I finished, I sprayed some lithium grease all over to lubricate the mechanism and protect against rust on the inner door. Now I could install the vapour barrier and door card. We had some left over polyethylene vapour barrier from construction so that was what I planned on using.
- Cut vapour barrier to size/shape, test fit it. Temporarily fix it in place at the top, then flip the bottom up to apply an adhesive. Flip it back down apply a little pressure so the adhesive contacts to vapour barrier (note: I also used a few small pieces of tuck tape).
- To install the door card in place, I attached a long piece of masking tape to the door-lock pin and fished it through the hole, if you don’t do this, it will be difficult to get the door-lock pin through the opening. Push card down to clip it to the top of the door, I also used a hammer with a piece of 2x4 with some light taps to push the front portion down.
- Put the 2 springs over the window winder and vent window knob. Pop the door clips in, some require more pressure than others.
- Install the window winder and vent window knob with plastic washer. Install door arm rest and door handle.
Before re-installed the front grills, I covered the 2 hood bracket support ‘bar’s with some black (sticker) vinyl. These are generally visible when the grill is installed, so you’d see a 2 bright red bars behind the grill. I also used Megiuars Ultimate Black on the grills.
Here’s a before (top) and after (bottom), not much to see here.
1st Drive around the block.
Frustrated with how long everything is taking in terms of the tuning, I messed around with the timing and carburetors some more on Saturday and felt like I got the motor to a point where I felt a (mini) drive was in order, equipped with a couple of screw drivers, wrenches and a fire extinguisher, I took the car around the block a couple of times. Everything went well, and the car felt smoother than before the I started this project, I was expecting a rougher ride due to the urethane bushings and all.
I’m trying to get a whole bunch of things done so that I can drive this car before winter comes and as you may know, it comes pretty quick around here.
- Driver/Passenger Doors Seals (Uro)
I had read some negative reviews about the Uro door seals but I also read that some weren’t happy with the OEM version. Given the big price difference, I cheaped out and went with the Uro door seals. Installing the door seals, is a slight bitch. Jamming it in to the aluminum bracket channel isn’t fun and then removing it to add weather stripping adhesive is even less fun. When sticking the trim to the frame curvatures (where there is no channel), it’s not as it does not want to stay in place.
Following the window adjustment, here are my issues with the URO door seals L
- Trunk Seal (OEM)
Much easier than the door seals, I simply stretched it out in to place and glued it in with some binder clips.
- Front & Back Windshields (OEM)
As with the headliner install, I followed ClayW’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ) for installation. Installing the glass with the seal was surprisingly easy, installing the lock-strip was a little more difficult but with the help of a lock-strip tool it wasn’t that bad.
- B-Pillar Trim
I cut and glued in some new vinyl trim (fabric) on the B-pillars. Similar to what I did on the A-pillars but without a foam backing.
- Door Cards (Rear)
Cleaned them up, popped in new clips and installed them.
I purchased a carpet from Esty way back in Feb of 2015, it was finally time to install it. I used Myrtle’s instructions (BMW2002FAQ). It went in pretty easy, but like most things it was time consuming. About the carpet, I don’t like the way the 2 front pieces (driver/passenger “mats”) sit, they have pleats… but Esty does not recommend any additional insulation/sound deadening below the carpet so maybe the additional ½” - ¾“ made the difference. I think the pleats might ease out with some heat/time.
- Handbrake Bearing Upgrade
Installed the handbrake bearing upgrade I purchased from williamggruff (BMW2002FAQ), seems like a big improvement for little effort & money.
- Seat Belts
They functioned properly, so I simply washed them with some liquid laundry detergent and hung them out to dry before re-installing them
The front speakers were originally in custom pods when the foot rest would normally be, I didn’t like that… so I mounted them under the dash. I’ll see how that works out, and might change it in the future but for now, out of sight out of mind.
Re-Installed the Moto-Lite wood wheel on the weekend… then re-installed the lovely E21 Reccaro seats from Aardvark Racing, last night. Now I have somewhere to sit while bleeding the brakes.
- Cleaned and installed the lower (knee) trim. I used Meguir’s plastic cleaner followed by the polish. They came out pretty good.
- Installed the door window finishers.
- 1 of the clips was aftermarket and didn’t really hold the trim, so being an impatient SOB, I rigged up a new clip with some scrap aluminum, a bolt and some steel weld.
Exhaust / Wideband
- I went to a local muffler shop (Federal Muffler) and had a bung installed for the O2 sensor. I sanded it, and painted it with some VHT exhaust paint. Upon installation, I noticed the fit was tighter than I expected (transmission support bar), so I pulled that off and modified it slightly for more clearance
- I did the ASPX O2 sensor calibration and waiting to fire it up and see what’s what.
The trunk and the hood were still at the paint shop, unfortunately the hood won’t fit in my XC60 but the trunk lid did.
Popped the trunk on, it still needs some alignment but at least it’s out of the way.
Take 2, at bleeding brakes, 1 of the fittings is leaking, seems like it’s not seating properly , nothings ever easy with this piece of junk.
Timing & Carb adjustment. I ordered a Innova advanced timing light but before trying that out, I want to rig up a bracket for a throttle return spring.
Building a new center console. To accommodate the new gauges & switches.
and some other stuff I can't think of right now.
Day ~59 – 62 About 4 days of work
Tidied up some more wiring and got things sorted out so that the battery was ready to be connected. I also installed the b-pillar gaskets and rear windows, with freshly painted window brackets… boooooring.
Engine/Transmission/Front Sub-Frame Reunion
I didn’t want to put the motor back in only to find out it was leaking from the oil pan because of the cork seal. So, I decided to change the cork seal for the paper version (with some RTV gasket sealant) as recommended by some members (BMW2002FAQ). I installed the oil temperature sender in the pan and popped in some new spark plugs.
The motor was ready to be reunited with the transmission, front sub-frame and ultimately the chassis. I built a dolly for the sub frame to sit on, jacked that up to the motor (while the motor was still on the stand). I secured the motor to the sub-frame, then slowly separated and lowered it away from the engine stand.
Once on the Floor, I reattached the struts, reinstalled the clutch and torqued up the transmission bolts. It was time to wait for backup (Kosta was coming to help).
We jacked up the car nice and high and at first the plywood dolly made rolling the sub-frame/motor under the chassis easy… until it we dropped the car and needed to lift the frame at different angles to secure the sub-frame, it was a bitch.
It took long but we got it in only slightly damaging the paint in a very small section of the firewall. I missed supper at my parents and Kosta was late to meet up with his wife.
- Installed new Track Rod (center tie rod)
- Reinstalled brakes with CA Tuned stainless lines
- Remounted the wheels. Dropped it down to make work easier.
- Installed the VDO oil pressure sender using the bav-auto adapter.
- Re-installed fuel pressure regulator
- Installed throttle cable
- Re-installed radiator
- Installed Glow Shift radiator hose adapter for VDO coolant temperature sender. Nifty inexpensive solution.
-Installed some new vinyl in the nook of the parcel shelf.
The first start of the engine (since Jan 2015). Kosta was over again to lend a hand provide moral support and be greek.
At first there were some fuel leaks from the carbs, then there were some fuel leaks with the carbs . The leaks were associated to the new redline gaskets (around the fuel line inlet) which seem to be thinner in outside diameter than the previous ones. In the end I put back the old ones.
Then the timing was too off. I have since done more research on timing and have ordered a advance timing light.
In the end it took about 25-30 cranks to get it running.
Shimmy Shakes (downpipe only)
A/F Wideband Digital Display
Installed the ASPX Wideband Digital display in the "fasten seat belts” box (I got the idea from Eurotrash). The display will be controlled by a switch in the dash console, so it doesn’t always have to be on. I like the idea of hiding the gauge, I put together a montage of photos to show others who might want to try it.
I test fitted where to install the O2 sensor, there wasn’t really any great location… Now I need to take the down-pipe somewhere to have the bung welded in
...next up: Double check that everything (electrical) is functioning correctly + timing + O2 bung in downpipe
Floor Pan Sound Deadening/Insulation Flashback: The original tar sound deadening was removed, patches welded in, floor pan interior and underside were grinded and sealed with POR15, rubberized asphalt undercoating was added under the entire shell.
Following the dynamat superlite install, I finished off the sound deadening by installing what was left of the EZ Cool, I was running out towards the end, so I had to cut some funky shapes in order to cover everything.
Rear sub-frame install Flashback: All component of the rear sub-frame were grinded down and re-sealed with POR15, the tired rubber bushings were replaced with new urethane bushings, the stock anti-sway bar was upgraded to an ST Suspension 19mm anti-sway bar and the rubber flexible brake lines replaced with CA Tuned braided stainless steel.
As previously mentioned, I had re-assembled the refreshed rear sub-frame and I placed it on some old plywood with some casters, figuring this would make my life easier. Well I was right, it did, with everything bolted to torque we simply needed to position, lift and secure. For the first time during the rebuild I enlisted some help, Kosta and my brother.
As you can see my brother was dressed to work.
Tail lights + Fuel tank Flashback: The interior of the fuel tank was treated with POR15’s 3-step fuel tank repair kit, the exterior was grinded and coated with POR15 sealer. New fuel sender gasket, new fuel filler neck gasket. The tail light’s were cleaned and polished, the internal reflective backs were sprayed with chrome paint and LED bulbs were added.
While getting the wiring sorted, I’m “plugging things in” to avoid confusion, plus I don’t like seeing loose harnesses. The trunk is an area which is simpler to tackle so I finishing that up.
I used some caulking strips to seal the tail light lenses because the oem seals are expensive ($18usd) for nothing (and I'm a cheap sob).
Time to put the refreshed fuel tank back in.
I used the same caulking strips to make a seal for the fuel tank and fuel tank seal
Brake Booster / Pedal Box install Flashback: The pedal box was repaired then sealed with POR15, new upgraded IE bearings/sleeves/springs were added. The brake booster + brake booster bracket were grinded and sealed with POR15 and new upgraded IE pivot bearing/sleeve were added.
I put the stuff in, not much else to say. Although I added CA Tuned front stainless steel lines and new brake line grommets. Also it was not fun installing the hard brake lines in to the master cylinder. I threw on a few more easy bits, wiper motor, hood clamp…
I figured the logical first step would be to install the sound deadening. I had purchased a bulk pack of Dynamat ‘Superlite’ on ebay in early 2015, when I grossly miscalculated my project’s timeline. I had decided on ‘Superlite’ to keep some weight off the ‘02. It was very easy to install and took me to about 5 hours in all, but I took my time.
The next item on my agenda was to clean up some of the wiring, which included re-taping the old harnesses, removing the smog wiring and adding some new wiring. The new wiring would be used to power gauges (oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, wideband), aux fan, O2 sensor, radio antenna (I had the old antenna holes filed and am mounting a hidden one in the trunk).
"Peter" is my son's name and it was done with the bit of POR15 I needed to dispose of.
“Wiring harness” for the VDO gauges, I also made a separate harness for the gauge lighting which will run off a free slot, controlled by the dimmer.
In order to power all the items, I decided to add a relay which would trigger when the ignition was on, this would supply power to a fused distribution panel. I would be able to run all the new items off this.
Just to get a few items out of the way and show some “visible” progress, I installed the headlight buckets, auxiliary fan and horns.
With the wiring at about 75% complete, I received my package from EZ Cool (http://ezcool.us/) and decided to proceed with the installation on the firewall (I got the idea from billpaterson). I plan on using the EZ cool, on the engine bay firewall, the floor pan and roof (interior ceiling). I picked up some 3M Super 90 spray adhesive because I heard unflattering reviews about Super 77. It has a pretty cool nozzle, you can control the spread and the angle of the spray. The EZ cool is very EZ to work with, see what I did there? F I’m hilarious.
EZ Cool firewall with original metal heat shield.
This week, I’ll be working on finishing the wiring and adding the ez cool to the floor pan (on top of the dynamat).
Body Shop Update: 2016-03-18
Went to the body shop (Frank's) at lunch since it's a Friday and it's nice & sunny outside. There was a little more progress than I expected but unfortunately the 2002 will be taking a backseat (for a little while). The X6 which came in as an insurance claim, and it will be getting an M body kit. Guess I have more time to clean my garage.
I asked him to do that "rocker guard" (bumpy) finish in the trunk.
Note: I have a peeve about painting things which aren't supposed to be painted. I had originally masked the shock tower rubber bushings, but I removed the tape when doing the bondy filler and forgot to put it back. I also didn't mention it to Frank, anyway they were already a little painted before, so they're a lot painted now
Day ~43-47 – Rear Sub-Frame Refresh, Engine Seals & Headlight Bucket Refresh
Rear Sub Frame Reassembly
Finally, the rear trailing arm spring perches have been repaired (using some steel tubing + a flat sheet of metal), the entire rear sub frame has been stripped and painted with POR15.
I reassembled the sub frame with Energy urethane bushings & bushing inserts (for the carrier mounts).
...with the addition of a 19mm ST Suspensions anti-sway bar.
One of the hard brake lines had broke during disassembly so I bought a new one and bent it to shape (using a empty beer bottle).
I replaced the rubber portion of the brake lines with the stainless steel offering from CA Tuned. I reassembled the remaining pieces on top of some scrap plywood/2x4s on casters to make the attachment to the chassis easier when the time comes.
Front Sub Frame Reassembly
I started refreshing and reassembling the front sub frame last summer (2015) but never completed it due to an obstacle (and other priorities), I screwed-up the thread to connect the pit arm to the roller shaft. During the winter we had it re-threaded (thanks to one of Ernest’s machinist friends), so I once again reassembled the steering box. Can’t remember if I previously mentioned this but the front sub frame received the same treatment as the rear, POR15 coating, Energy urethane bushings and a 22mm ST Suspensions anti-sway bar.
Headlight buckets, Refresh
The headlight buckets were in decent shape only some slight surface rust here and there but I decided to strip them and paint them as well.
The motor was leaking oil from all over the place, so I purchased the top end and bottom end gasket sets from bluntech. People were saying to leave the head gasket alone if it’s not leaking but I had the head gasket and I also have a hard head, which I might end up regretting in the near future but only time will tell.
Kosta and Ernest had come over to aid in the disassembly of the motor. Kosta was calling Jason, who we generally call when building bikes or cars for expert advice.
1st discovery, the previous owner listed the car as having a IE mechanical timing chain tensioner, that wasn’t so.
2nd discovery, the oil pan stock baffle and additional baffle had both broken off.
3rd discovery, the pistons had a good amount of carbon build-up, especially the two on the right (photo doesn’t do the carbon ‘thickness’ justice).
I read if there wasn’t significant carbon build-up to not bother cleaning it but I found it to be pretty thick on two pistons, plus I was there.
I also cleaned the cylinder head which was more difficult so I didn’t do such a fantastic job.
Since I was there, I repainted the block in gloss black and the timing chain covers + other crap in the closest I could find to oem aluminum finish (unfortunately the actual paint had more of a 'bronzie' hue than the paint cap).
Kosta repairing the broken oil pan baffles, one is stock, the other, I assume was added by the previous owner.
When removing the timing chain, we marked the chain / cam sprocket and the chain / crank sprocket, but what we forgot to do was to mark the distributor position
. During reassembly, we re-lined up the marks and installed the chain in it’s original location with cam and crank . I was not able to find the
mark on the cam hub so I’m a little concerned about the orientation of the two. I’m looking to see how to accurately find
on all 3 (cam sprocket, crank pulley & flywheel) before installing the distributor.
Any advice on this would be very welcomed!
We reassembled the motor using the new gaskets with a high tack gasket sealant (from Permatex as recommended by eurotrash), then popped on the intake manifold with the refreshed Weber DCOE 45s.
So, I still need to reinstall the distributor and the starter before tossing the engine aside for a while.
*Following the feedback I receive in a
I posted about the pistons and compression ratio, I may take the head back off to check some stuff out.
No update. I'm scared to call or pass by the shop because I heard he's busy. I will try to find time this week at lunch when it's nice out.
Day ~42 - Rear Sub-Frame Refresh
Body Shop Update (January 8th)
I dropped off the car for paint on January 4th, since then I haven’t done much 2002 work. On January 8th, I had to drop of my father-in-law’s F150 for some bodywork (while he’s on vacation), I hadn’t expected Frank to start on the 2002 but surprisingly he started some body work on the roof and nose.
Rear Sub-Frame Disassembly
It was time to start some work on the rear sub-frame which hadn’t been touched since it was remove last spring (aside from being moved from the back to the side of the garage). The plan was to give it the same treatment the front sub-frame received; grind it down, degrease, metal etch, por15 & re-assemble with urethane bushings.
The first thing I noticed which I hadn’t noticed before is that the differential bracket seemed to be missing a metal sleeve. I’d like to believe it somehow got lost from the time I remove it from the car to now, but there isn’t many places it could have went in my garage without being seen or found. Regardless, I had a new set of bushings to insert with new sleeves (included with bushing kit for rear-end), so I’ll pretend it was there and I lost it.
Following the disassembly of the rear sub-frame I started grinding down the axle carrier to prep it for the whole por15 process. There was a significant amount of rust, sand and dirt trapped inside it, the photo I took really doesn’t do the pile of dirt justice. I think the cleaning alone provided a weight reduction of 1lb.
I gave both the axle carrier and differential hangar the usual pre-por15 treatment, then I made a “clothes line” to hang the parts while painting them with por15. I used the Eastwood internal frame paint extension hose/nozzle to paint inside the axle carrier.
You might be wondering why I didn’t paint the trailing arms at the same time as the other pieces… well there are 2 reasons for that, one of them was known and the other was a surprise.
Previously, during the disassembly (last spring), I found out that the spring perch on the trailing arm (passenger side) had rusted through (half the circumference). I was hoping to find a used replacement or have someone weld in a patch-in, because a new one is $1014usd (the price actually went up from $970 2 weeks ago).
At this stage of the project I assumed there would be no more bad surprises, unfortunately I was wrong.
Before I starting work on the driver side trailing arm, I noticed that it looked as though it was in much better condition than the passenger side. I figured maybe it had been previously replaced. Unfortunately, looks were not skin deep, while grinding away I discovered it had a hole (same issue as the passenger side, surprise #1) with the addition of another hole (surprise #2). The horrible part about this is that they were both “repaired” with body filler. I can only assume a previous owner was duped by a body shop because I doubt anyone would agree to this, not to mention the spring perch is completely hidden when installed (rubber bushing).
Differential Hangar Bushings
In order to press the new polyurethane bushings in I used a lag bolt (a log wood screw), a few washers and an old piece of 2x4. Here's a photo of what I did which worked very well. I assumed I didn't need to lubricate these bushings as wouldn't be moving but did it anyway since I have extra lube.
They were in good shape and look like they've been previously changed, especially since the BMW part sticker was still mostly intact.
I cleaned them up, wire brushed and painted.
Body Shop Update (January 29th)
It was a beautiful day outside so I decided during my lunch break, I'd make the trek from to Montreal-North. As I have previously mentioned, Frank was taking on the job between others so I didn't expect much. He had completed bodywork on the front portion of the car and put it aside to work on some other jobs.
Day ~41 (about 1 day of work) Seat Rail Renewal, Shipping the carcass to Bodyshop
Seat Rail Refresh
Soon after I purchased the 02, I discovered the seat rails were a rusty mess, I had looked in to getting another set at the time but Aardvark Racing (who sold the previous owner the Reccaro seats), said he was out of stock and I would be better off ‘de-rusting’ them. Fast forward to the project… I degreased the rails, gave them a bath in the Metal Rescue solution (for ~30hours), wire brushed, rinsed, dried, painted and re-greased them. It’s a shame I forgot to take a before photo .
Seat Rail “Clothesline” for spray paint.
The original plan which dates back a year was to send the car to Strasse for bodywork & paint, turns out they’re all booked up (for bodywork) until April’ish, so I went out to get a few more quotes (from shops with good reputations or were referred to me).
My father-in-law referred me to the shop where he gets work done. It was a father & son deal where the son (Frank) has now taken over the reins and does everything himself. He seems like a nice/good guy and I’m confident he’ll do a good job. The shop is in the east end, off industrial called C L Auto Body (10760, av Jean-Meunier, Montréal-Nord, QC H1G 4S4 | 514-325-6463).
Now it was a matter of getting the car there.
Plan A, F150 with double ATV Trailer. My father-in-law (who’s vacationing in Florida) has a F150 and had an old double ATV trailer (which was now at his friend’s shop), I wanted to get the car to paint before there was snow on the ground. Unfortunately when I went to pick-up the trailer, I discovered, the sides were too high, thus making the trailer too narrow for the overall shell.
Plan B, Uhaul. I was going to call Uhaul to rent either a 10x6 trailer, hoping the ramp/gate is removable or if it wasn’t an auto transport trailer. I called Uhaul to find out the ramp/gate is not removable so the length of 10’ would not be enough, the agent also told me that the auto transport trailers were all in Florida and he could locate one for me (would take a few weeks) but when I explained him what I was towing he said it wouldn’t work because the trailer has two rails (for the car’s wheels) and the casters I installed on the shell would not end up in those rails. I said I could put a plank of wood across or something, he said uhaul wouldn’t allow that.
Plan C, Flatbed. My mother-in-law’s cousin’s husband is Mike Burstall (of Burstall & Conrad Towing). I figured they be pricey because the have exclusive rights to the highways and I’ve had cars towed from the highway a few times for a pretty penny. Mike helped out for a very fair price of $0.
I finished packing up the car to ship.
Now we play the waiting game and in the meantime refresh some more parts, including the full rear-sub-frame.
Current State of Garage: 2016-01-04
Day ~35-40 (about 5 days of work) Some Surface Rust Removal + Rubberized Asphalt Application + Fender & Door Installation + Body Filler
Surface Rust Clean-up
I decided to clean up some areas which had surface rust;
- Driver + Passenger gutter rails
- Driver + Passenger ledges under the rear windows
- Driver + Passenger welds where we installed the short sill / lower quarter panel patches (in front of rear wheel)
- Driver + Passenger spot welds along the new rocker panels
- Engine Bay
The plan was to wire-brush away the rust, then degrease, then apply Por15 Metal Ready (to eat away rust (just in case) & etch the metal). I masked off the areas I didn't want to paint, and sprayed on some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.
I have previously used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator inside the shock towers (inner perches), frame rails and some other nook & cranny areas, with no access.
In the engine bay there were many small areas with surface rust but they were spread out, including behind all the removable metal clips (which were also rusted themselves). I wire-brushed away the rust spots, and because it was spread out, I gave did a light sanding everywhere.... that’s why the original paint looks orange instead of red.
The metal (cable) clips would be too difficult to wire-brush, so I tried this Metal Rescue stuff which I had read about on the web (it's also available at Canadian Tire). It’s decent stuff, here's how it went:
With the help of a photo I took before removing the clips, I re-installed them, then I used seam sealer in the wheel well to secure the backs of the clips. Basically the seam sealer fills the area around the tab on the back, securing it in place. I had noticed that this was how BMW originally secured them.
Rubberized Asphalt Undercoating
I did so much work under the car removing grinding, old seam sealer, degreasing, painting, etc. that it was a shame to cover it with this goop but for protection's sake, I had to. I put a thin layer (I'd say between 1/16" and 1/8th) and still ended up using the whole gallon. It's very pasty so takes some extra effort to apply while you're lying on your back with you arm over your head.
At this point I decided to tidy up the garage a little, it's been a crazy disaster for so long, that I forget what my garage looked like before. I also wanted to take the snowblower outside to make sure it's ready for the season.
Unfortunately it will still be a long time before I get it anywhere close to what it used to be.
Current State of Garage: Nov 27, 1015
There were maybe 1 or 2 very light spots of rust behind each fender, they're not original (I was told they were changed in 2006), I wire-brushed the couple of rusted areas, degreased, metal ready and sprayed on 2 coats of Tremclad Rust paint (because I ran out of the Eastwood stuff).
I installed the fenders without tightening the screws because I realized that I would need to re-install the doors in order ensure the belt & knee trims line-up accordingly. The doors were stored in my basement and it was not easy getting the first door (driver) on without someone's help. The bolts are short and the hinge pushes back every time you try to insert 1 of the 6 bolts, on top of that you have to hold the door.
Luckily after I managed to secure the driver door my father popped-in to drop-off a "care package," some of my grandmother's homemade cavatelli and sauce. He helped me line-up the door, it still took a while. I installed all the doors in my house and this is about as much as a pain in the ass as that. He offered to return the next day to help with the passenger door as my Saturday work day was finished. I completed the passenger door and fender install with his help on Sunday.
Driver door and fender installed.
Roof + Hood Support Bars
I had noticed during the disassembly, in the interior of the car, on the ceiling, 1 of the bars which supports the roof had come unglued. It seems BMW used some adhesive strips to secure these. I used some Permatex adhesive/sealant (which is non-paintable), since this area will be hidden it didn’t matter that I made a mess of it J.
The hood which I had neglected for a long while was collecting dust at the back of the garage, the trim, rubber and other hardware were still intact, I removed it all. I degreased the back side of the hood but there was also some baked-on gunk which required some scraping. At this point I noticed (similar to the support roof) a support bar had come unglued. I used the same adhesive to secure the bar to the hood sheet metal, except this time I masked off the areas which will be painted. I used a bucked (of industrial cement sealer) to hold the bar down while the adhesive cured, I used a couple of boxes to keep the bucket from falling over.
Shock Tower Patch, Body Filler
If you haven’t noticed by reading this thread, I like trying to do things myself... and that’s the story with the bondo. For the shock towers, I figured; 1) the repair would be hidden, 2) it’s a good learning experience/practice... and most importantly 3) I’m a cheap bastard.
It took me about 4 coats but, I’m satisfied with the outcome.
I took some detailed photos of the car highlighting all the areas that need attention for paint shops.
Current State of Garage: Dec 8, 1015
Next step... PAINT SHOP, MFs!!!!
Day ~30-34 (about 4 day of work), More Grinding and prepping + Por15, September 12th, 2015 - November 3rd, 2015
I was hoping to have the grinding + the Por15 finished before leaving on Vacation to Florida (September 25th), unfortunately, there was way more grinding (in tough places + under the car) than I had anticipated. "More work than anticipated," is really the story of this project.
Grinding complete, shot of the floor pan.
Then on to the degreasing... Since I would be working upside down under the car, in addition to the usual latex gloves and long sleeves, I used a dust mask (respirator) and a full face guard. I was using the spritz spray nozzle (included with the original kit i purchased) After a short time, the cuffs of my sleeves were pretty wet, while I was under the car I looked at the bottle in my hand to see if there was that "skeleton hand logo," or something.
After about 10 minutes my wrists were burning, I got out from under the car and read the label where it was written in uppercase "CAUSES BURNS," awesome.
I was having supper at Ernest's that night so I got to show off my burns to the boys.
Under carriage degreased
The next day for the Por15 - Metal Ready, which is a much stronger chemical... I put my latex gloves over some garbage bags which I made in to sleeves and taped them together. With the Metal Ready, I didn't need to do any scrubbing, you just need to keep the surface wet for a period of time (25 mins if memory serves me right).
Poor man's hazmat suit.
Rinse down. Those drain plugs, I removed and welded up could have come in handy.
Paper laid out for the painting process.
The rust prevention rundown (shown on the driver inner fender).
Grinded down, Degreased, Metal Prep, Por15, Sanding, Seam-sealer, Matte Topcoat.
A few more shots of the Por15. I just love that glossy finish, it's a shame i needed to sand it and topcoat... which I'm doing everywhere except the floor pan.
Rear tire well
... you get the picture
Floor pan, light sand + seam sealer
Floor pan, topcoated in matte black
After the matte black topcoat, i still need to put the rubberized undercoating... hopefully by the end of this weekend so I can take this thing off the jack stands.
Side note: I had taken a photo of the car before doing the Por15 and posted it on twitter writing "ready for #por15" or something. This week i got a tweet from Por15 saying they put a photo of it up at their SEMA both, because of some contest, I didn't win anything though.
I can't wait to get this piece of crap out to a paint shop. i hate it.
Day ~29 (about 1 day of work), Let's Grind - August 30th, 2015 - September 12th, 2015
I was finally able to remove the temporary square tubing we had put in to reinforce the shell while replacing the rocker panels. Despite the actual work of removing those 6 pieces of metal didn't take much time or even effort, it felt like huge progress was made. I think it was because it meant the days of welding were numbered.
Support out mother f'ers!
My plan was to grind down the floor pan, to bare metal and Por15 it. I laid out my tools, ready to go at it.
I don't understand how the floor pans rust rust in these cars because grinding off the paint/primer/whatever is a huge pain in the arse. I think i might settle for doing a pretty good job removing the worst before applying the Por15 process. I mean there's no rust or anything, so why break my back.
Note to people who might attempt this: if you leave even a small trance of that tar sound deadening on the floor and try to grind it, it will just heat up and spread. I recommend having a razor blade scraper to remove it as your grinding. If not it just makes the whole process all the more annoying.
I plan on giving it another shot of grinding before proceeding with Por15.
Look at our "lovely" patchwork done on the passenger floor pan. We had cut the tranny tunnel wall (of the car) a little too high, so we had to put in a patch there. The donor floor pan was also in some bad shape in the right corner (thanks DenverTii), so there's another patch there. We also plugged the drain holes.
Since the welder had a few things to fix inside the shell, I moved under the car. I started scraping off the underside with a razor blade and metal scrapper/spatula, if i would have started with the grinder from the start it would be a hot mess.Surprisingly it doesn't look that bad once you remove all the muck, I think I'll give it a light grinding in everywhere and a heavy grinding on the bad spots before putting some more Por15 and a rubberized undercoating.
I should finally have more free time on evenings next week so hope to make some good progress.
Day ~25 to 28 (~3 days of work), Driver Rocker Panel Install + Por15 - July 10th, 2015
As I previously mentioned, at the end of the last post, my buddy Kosta was going to be swinging by following the resignation of my welder (Benjamin). At that point I thought his referral wouldn’t amount to anything but luckily he came through and his friend (Justin) showed up to start some welding on July 29th. I guess I should have given him more credit than I did, Benjamin does have a lot of work (farming) to do at home in the summer.
I’m finally starting to accept that I won’t be able to drive the car before the season ends... it’s sad but it also gives me a lot more time to complete it .
Driver, Rocker Panel Install
The last item Benjamin welded before signing-off was the rocker panel, it was to be spot welded in. He only had time to spot weld the upper portion, after he left I noticed a lot of the welds hadn’t caught, I was going to ask him to fix it up but he never returned... enter Kosta. Kosta fixed up the spot welds and secured the driver rocker panel. We then tack welded in the ¾ panel patch (which I picked up from http://www.restoration-design.com/, I think they just get their BMW stuff from http://www.wallothnesch.com/, so if you’re not in a rush, you could save a few dollar and get it directly from wallothnesch.com...live and learn.)
Kosta workin’ it.
I had cut out the panel patch section before receiving the patches, which turned out to be a bad idea because I removed a section which wasn’t part of the patch, the bottom right of door opening (in photo). I fixed that up with Justin and didn’t make the same mistake on the other side.
Passenger, Rocker Panel Removal
Removed the rocker panel, was easier 2nd time around. I learnt the lesson to leave that little tab in place (2nd photo).
Lots of rot
Cleaned-up the rust and had Kosta weld in some patches (BTW, this is the day Ernest took his photos for his “Behind The Scenes” post)
Next I degreased it and prepped the metal with the Por15 kit.
I wanted to do the inner rocker and at the same time the inner front fender as well. It took a lot of elbow grease to remove the paint, road grime and seam sealer but after a few hours... it was ready for work. My plan is to strip the 4 wheel wells (and front inner fenders) to put por 15 and then some new seam sealer before sending it to paint. I also plan on doing some cleaning on the underside of the car. Haven’t decided how far I’ll go yet, 1 thing at a time.
Here’s some photos of the Por15 process (I should have taken a before photo to show how much grime was on there).
Fyi, the wood was painted because I’m a banana.
Passenger Rocker Panel Installed
So I can now remove the 1" square tubing which was securing the body while we changed the rocker panels.. pretty excited about that.
Front Sub-Frame Re-assembly
As seen in one of my previous posts... I had completely disassembled the front sub-frame, grinded it all the components down and followed the por15 process. I figured it was time to start reassembling mostly because parts were thrown a little bit everywhere and I wanted to do something other than make patches.
I had already placed my order when I discovered that urethane bushings are apparently loud (squeaky) and on top of that I also heard there’s not a noticeable difference between the stock rubber bushings and the urethane bushings. Although I should say, I’ve read posts on how difficult it is to reinsert new rubber bushings and I’m very happy I don’t have to go through that.
In order to try to avoid the squeaks, I ordered some extra urethane lubricant from the manufacturer, I guess I’ll see how that works out when the cars running again.
...more photos on the Sub-frame reassembly to follow.
Day ~22 to 24 (~2 days of work), Sheet metal work + Por15 - June 10th, 2015
I had to fabricate some metal panels at the bottom of the A-pillar and in-front of the rear fender (behind rocker) because of the rust (plus some horrible bondo work by PO).
Given the bends on the pieces I was replacing and the fact that I’m a beginner working with only a mallet and a cinder block... It’s freakin time consuming and not fun. I gave that a rest as I went as far as I could go without the welder putting pieces in.
Welder wasn’t very available...so I moved on to more fun things.
I've been anxious to try the Por15 stuff on something because i bought it a few months ago and it's been sitting on a shelf in the garage ever since, so finally...
I took a whole bunch of parts I wanted to Por15:
- Front Sub Frame + components,
- Gas tank + Gas tank heat shield
- Pedal box
- Brake booster + brake booster brackets.
I grinded down the parts to remove the rust and then prepared thems with Por15 Marine Clean (degreaser) & Por15 Metal Prep (metal etching).
I made a parts “clothes-line” in the corner of my backyard and got to painting.
I really love the finish Por15 gives. I just hope it’s as good as advertised when it comes to rust prevention/protection. Note: Por15 is UV sensitive and will crack if exposed to sunlight, the parts I’m painting won’t be exposed to UV rays so I won’t be top coating them.
I rebuilt the pedal box with the Ireland Engineering refresh kit
On the subject of the welder, looks like I will have to find another welder as mine seems to be too busy this summer on his parent’s farm. It’s hard to find reliable people. I kinda got the impression he was less interested the last time he was here but at least he said he'd refer me a friend from school, will have to see if he comes through with that.
My buddy Kosta is swinging by this afternoon to look at what needs to be welded and to see what he can help with as this car is depressing me.
I hate this car.
Day 14 and beyond (like ~7 full days total work) – Getting some welding and other things done (Gas Tank + Metal work) – May 2nd to June 7th
I found a welder (student) to come do work at my place, he’s not too expensive but the project is getting very expensive. If i would have known about all this i wouldn't have started but now I'm a never quit kinda guy.
My buddy Ernest came by to give me a hand with some stuff, so while the welder was working on the floor pan patches, Ernest went bananas with the torch, burning out rubber bushings. They will be replaced by urethane bushings (which Bluntech advised against ). I'll also be putting larger sway bars.
We then got to work on the gas tank, I had picked up the Por 15 gas tank seal kit (http://por15canada.com/por15-fuel-tank-repair-kit.html). If there’s one thing Ernest is good at... it’s reading instructions 10 times to make sure we follow them properly (not my specialty). It was quite the workout, after every step you need to swoosh around the tank for ~30mins. Before applying the actual sealer we had to make sure it was very dry... Ernest on the job
A few days later I started stripping the exterior of the tank to coat that with some Por 15, I also stripped the front sub-frame for the same process.
I’ll leave out some of the smaller rust/welding stories to keep this post a little brief but there have been a lot of nasty surprises while taking apart this car... 2 examples; when I started to work on the shock towers I discovered the patch (repaired by previous owner) which I thought was sound was not, the patch was placed directly over the rust, so there was a nice surprise behind it. The nose had a lot of bondo on the inside at the bottom, which was put on top of expanding insulating foam :s
I cut the shock towers from inside the trunk all the way to the inside of the cabin, this is a common 2002 rust area. I cleaned up the spring perches which were in decent condition and applied some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, just to add an extra coat I applied some white rustoleum spray paint I had lying around (as a top coat to the eastwood stuff). I made 3 patches per side, I was pleased with my work given my tools (a grinder, mallet & a cement block) and metal experience (zero). The welder put them in and I will por 15 the trunk along with the floor pan in the future.
We had placed some 1x1 square tubing to reinforce the car as we work on it, specifically for the rocker panel replacement. It’s what the more knowledgeable people from the bmw2002faq forums do
Kosta came on Sunday, I needed him mostly for moral support because cutting rockers is scary... not to mention this car is a piece of crap and very depressing. We got to work with a spot cutter to remove the rocker panel. I picked up the spot weld cutter from Summit for ~$8, well worth it. We started on the driver side, which is the side I believed to be in better condition of the 2. The condition was not so good, a large portion of the front part of the rocker turned out to be bondo on top of a rusty patch which just covered the rust (much like the shock towers the actual rust was never addressed).
We got the driver side more or less off, now I need to clean it up a little more and wait for my package from http://www.restoration-design.com (located in Canada) with 2 rear rocker/quarter panel patches.
I hate this car.