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Almost There (and by 'there' I mean the bodyshop).

MildSeven

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blog-0336633001452095377.jpgDay ~35-40 (about 5 days of work) Some Surface Rust Removal + Rubberized Asphalt Application + Fender & Door Installation + Body Filler

Surface Rust Clean-up

I decided to clean up some areas which had surface rust;

- Driver + Passenger gutter rails

- Driver + Passenger ledges under the rear windows

- Driver + Passenger welds where we installed the short sill / lower quarter panel patches (in front of rear wheel)

- Driver + Passenger spot welds along the new rocker panels

- Engine Bay

The plan was to wire-brush away the rust, then degrease, then apply Por15 Metal Ready (to eat away rust (just in case) & etch the metal). I masked off the areas I didn't want to paint, and sprayed on some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

I have previously used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator inside the shock towers (inner perches), frame rails and some other nook & cranny areas, with no access.

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In the engine bay there were many small areas with surface rust but they were spread out, including behind all the removable metal clips (which were also rusted themselves). I wire-brushed away the rust spots, and because it was spread out, I gave did a light sanding everywhere.... that’s why the original paint looks orange instead of red.

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Wet Paint

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The metal (cable) clips would be too difficult to wire-brush, so I tried this Metal Rescue stuff which I had read about on the web (it's also available at Canadian Tire). It’s decent stuff, here's how it went:

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With the help of a photo I took before removing the clips, I re-installed them, then I used seam sealer in the wheel well to secure the backs of the clips. Basically the seam sealer fills the area around the tab on the back, securing it in place. I had noticed that this was how BMW originally secured them.

Rubberized Asphalt Undercoating

I did so much work under the car removing grinding, old seam sealer, degreasing, painting, etc. that it was a shame to cover it with this goop but for protection's sake, I had to. I put a thin layer (I'd say between 1/16" and 1/8th) and still ended up using the whole gallon. It's very pasty so takes some extra effort to apply while you're lying on your back with you arm over your head.

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At this point I decided to tidy up the garage a little, it's been a crazy disaster for so long, that I forget what my garage looked like before. I also wanted to take the snowblower outside to make sure it's ready for the season.

Unfortunately it will still be a long time before I get it anywhere close to what it used to be.

Current State of Garage: Nov 27, 1015

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Fender Re-Install

There were maybe 1 or 2 very light spots of rust behind each fender, they're not original (I was told they were changed in 2006), I wire-brushed the couple of rusted areas, degreased, metal ready and sprayed on 2 coats of Tremclad Rust paint (because I ran out of the Eastwood stuff).

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I installed the fenders without tightening the screws because I realized that I would need to re-install the doors in order ensure the belt & knee trims line-up accordingly. The doors were stored in my basement and it was not easy getting the first door (driver) on without someone's help. The bolts are short and the hinge pushes back every time you try to insert 1 of the 6 bolts, on top of that you have to hold the door.

Luckily after I managed to secure the driver door my father popped-in to drop-off a "care package," some of my grandmother's homemade cavatelli and sauce. He helped me line-up the door, it still took a while. I installed all the doors in my house and this is about as much as a pain in the ass as that. He offered to return the next day to help with the passenger door as my Saturday work day was finished. I completed the passenger door and fender install with his help on Sunday.

Driver door and fender installed.

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Roof + Hood Support Bars

I had noticed during the disassembly, in the interior of the car, on the ceiling, 1 of the bars which supports the roof had come unglued. It seems BMW used some adhesive strips to secure these. I used some Permatex adhesive/sealant (which is non-paintable), since this area will be hidden it didn’t matter that I made a mess of it J.

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The hood which I had neglected for a long while was collecting dust at the back of the garage, the trim, rubber and other hardware were still intact, I removed it all. I degreased the back side of the hood but there was also some baked-on gunk which required some scraping. At this point I noticed (similar to the support roof) a support bar had come unglued. I used the same adhesive to secure the bar to the hood sheet metal, except this time I masked off the areas which will be painted. I used a bucked (of industrial cement sealer) to hold the bar down while the adhesive cured, I used a couple of boxes to keep the bucket from falling over.

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Shock Tower Patch, Body Filler

If you haven’t noticed by reading this thread, I like trying to do things myself... and that’s the story with the bondo. For the shock towers, I figured; 1) the repair would be hidden, 2) it’s a good learning experience/practice... and most importantly 3) I’m a cheap bastard.

It took me about 4 coats but, I’m satisfied with the outcome.

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I took some detailed photos of the car highlighting all the areas that need attention for paint shops.

Current State of Garage: Dec 8, 1015

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Next step... PAINT SHOP, MFs!!!!



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I love what you've done so far. From one Canadian to another, "trés bon!".  If you're ever in Toronto, bring your welder and give me a hand. (ha)

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