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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Thanks to John Miller (John76) who coaxed me, I submitted my '72 Baikal tii awhile back for judging at the Hillsborough Concours d'Elegance which took place this past Sunday. The car was accepted for the "Imported Passenger and Touring Cars through 1973" class, which was already plenty cool. Well, the car ended up winning Best in Class...I'm still floating on Cloud 9! Thank you again to John76...hanging out with him and his lovely Wife was one of the high points of a perfect day. COOP
  2. 7 points
    i love my car....bought it from original owner with 2600 miles, have driven the heck out of it, traveled cross country several times... everything except the disposable parts are original...never been worked on, never had to following my stroke, steve pulled it in the garage and put a cover on it...not to be seen until yesterday when he took it out, hosed it off checked fluids, gave the starter a spin and like the great car she is, she fired right up...no smoke, no funny sounds, just perfect...i drove it around the block and smiled the whole time...it needs the gas pedal put on driving with that nubby things isn't as easy as it should be now i suppose it's time to say goodbye and find her a new home...i just don't have the same urges i did when i was younger...steve would like to not worry about taking care of our old cars...i'm torn between putting her back to her original self, malaga with gobi interior or leave her as is...i'll see how prospective buyer react when the time comes to hang the for sale sign
  3. 6 points
    Here's my original condition '70 Atlantikblau. Here being judged by Ludwig Willitsch, (middle), President of BMW N.A. and with Bobby Rahal. Bobby lived in Cincinnati and I lived in Louisville. We talked about how we'd suck the muscle cars into the roller coaster hills of Kentucky and leave them behind.
  4. 6 points
    I'll preface my super opinionated statement with the following: I am a professional mechanic and I specialize in 2002s. They've been my thing for over 30 years. I cannot stress the following enough: ****Find a reputable mechanic that KNOWS 2002s**** Inside and out. Pay extra for their knowledge and experience. These cars are simple, but lack of familiarity can be the source of problems that are inconvenient, expensive, and potentially DEADLY, if the car isn't something for which they have extensive knowledge or experience. Yesterday I spent 8 solid hours looking at and working on a 2002 race car that had been built, repaired, and touched by too many inexperienced people. This same car has had constant problems at the track (for YEARS), ranging from shift linkage failures to overheating. It had shiny paint. Fancy MIL head gasket, fancy ARP head studs, lightened flywheel, big dumb carbs, LSD, competition tires, coil-overs.... which doesn't mean a thing, if the car is an all-out death trap waiting to explode. Here's what I found yesterday: "Fresh" dyno'd race engine (less than 4 hours of run time on it) gushing oil from every seal - and RTV applied to the OUTSIDE of the engine to slow down the leaks. Missing oil seal ring at back of distributor housing (a rookie mistake easily made, if you don't KNOW these engines.) incorrect *used* lock nuts holding the header on (barely) loose flywheel - I'll be replacing the crankshaft this week, because the old flywheel was improperly installed and completely THRASHED the crankshaft, rear crank seal, and everything near it. He's lucky it didn't destroy his transmission or saw blade through the tunnel into his legs at 7200 rpm. He wants the car ready to race in 6 days for the Pittsburgh Vintage grand Prix. It's going to be an all consuming project for me this week. It is going to be expensive. 12 out of the 24 rear axle bolts loose - even though they had lock nuts on them The 3 safety wired bolts on the bottom of one strut were safety wired - but all were hand tight, causing an extremely dangerous condition. The driver is lucky to be alive. Center tie rod with 3/8" of vertical play, at outboard joint / idler arm. Weber DCOE set screws (the ones that hold the venturis in place) loose - one missing entirely. Fancy Koni custom coil overs, with collars ground down 1/4" with a grinder, to clear the inboard tire edge. Front wheel weights contacting ball joint at full lock, when rotated. ...this is an incomplete list... but you get the idea. Find someone with the proper experience and mindset to work on your car. You'll save a lot of money in the long run and be less likely to die behind the wheel, or risk the lives of others on the road / track with you. Cars can be 90 mph deadly machines. Build them accordingly.
  5. 5 points
    Hi Everyone, my name is Steve and I have recently been inspired to resurrect my 1973 2002. I have owned the car for over 20 years. For the first 10 years (thereabouts) it was my everyday car. However, for the past 10 years it has been parked in a covered carport, slowly collecting dust and deteriorating. Recently I've made the decision that "enough is enough" and it is time to get it running again. I want to thank all of you who have documented your experiences and posted your advise! After exploring this forum throughout the last couple of weeks, I am stoked, inspired and much less overwhelmed at the tasks and work ahead of me. Thank you thank you. Steve
  6. 5 points
  7. 5 points
    Visited Emmenegger Power and found this Alpina wedged in amongst some nice rides...
  8. 5 points
    My thanks to all for the many nice compliments on my "former" car. And, if it wasn't your "cup-of-tea", well, that's OK too! Follow your dream... I did with mine That car will be missed, as it has been a big part of my BMW life for the past 13 years... the memories will fortunately linger. If you see me at an event in the future, please say 'hello' and we can share some stories -RoyW
  9. 5 points
  10. 5 points
    A am digging mine, great tires.
  11. 5 points
    Something for us to consider, jlandreth, If you had $86,400 in your account and someone stole $10 from you, would you throw the remaining amount $86,390 away at the person who took your $10? No. You wouldn't. You would remember the person who stole from you and you will be wary of them in future, but you would retain the positives of what remains. A significant sum to be positive about. So consider this. We have 86,400 seconds each day. Don't let someone's negative 10 seconds ruin the remaining 86,390 seconds of your day. Have a great day everyone and keep our 02 community positive.
  12. 4 points
    I purchased a 70' 1600 a few years back and drove it daily. About 8 months ago I bought a doner Tii that was rusted out and had Terry Sayther here in Austin swap the drive-train over. Now its a sleeper 1600 that I drive all day every day.
  13. 4 points
  14. 4 points
    Awesome thread. I just got my car up and running again (thanks to all the great advice and help from people on this forum) I haven't yet done a proper photo shoot yet but I did grab a few frames from last week when I fired er up and drove down to the beach. First drive in 3 years. Felt good. More photos to come! The car is 99% stock and I am working on cleaning everything up and restoring it back to what it would have been like picking it up back in 1971... But In Europe rather than the USA.
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    well after two months the two 60s model chevy trucks that were ahead of me at the paint shop are finished and the Turkis princess is next in line to be painted...
  17. 4 points
    I can see why. Jeff Ireland posts here, personally, which is cool Andrew, when he was working at IE, posted as both himself and as an employee, which was also cool. He was very careful to differentiate. In my interactions with Ireland Engineering, I have found that WHOM you speak with is important- sometimes critical- in getting good service and correct parts, especially in a short time frame. To have someone claiming to be IE Motorsports without a name, I find to be off- putting. I don't mind at all if different people from IE post using that login- I would just like to know who's posting. Then, when I try to call and order said rotors, I can say, "Sam posted that..." and if need be, speak to Sam. Just seems more... personal. t
  18. 4 points
    Jimk I've seen a similar amount of BMW's, one silver e39. thanks for the suggestion resra! No luck at either. Ace hardware had 2 nuts of that size in stock: I bought both. They also had the wavy washer! Currently going through Iowa without a hitch!
  19. 4 points
    Because at 100mph and in the rain the driver needs to have the wiper against the window. The passenger doesn't need it when huddled on the floor shivering from fright!
  20. 4 points
    My work in progress Nachtblau (Night Blue) 76. This color was available on 1975 cars, though I've yet to find an original Night Blue 1975. I used PPG Global Paint and BMW Paint codes. I referenced several Nachtblau E9's and also the Glasurit mix on Nachtblau to get as close as possible to a perfect match.
  21. 4 points
    Here my 71 Riviera Blue.
  22. 4 points
    I've heard and seen very great things come out of Tighe Productions, and Le Tran's 02 Werks as well!
  23. 3 points
    Brief video of a test drive...the car has about 500 miles of shake down on it and things are progressing well. Impressions- It feels like a 2002, but with steroid enhancement. It doesn't lose the essence of an 02. No rev drop between gears and so much power and gear length versus a stock 02. I'm still processing my thoughts but overall it's awesome and fast. Next up is the stereo install and a few more bits and then it's done! (for now )
  24. 3 points
    1600s were cool before 2002's were. And still are!
  25. 3 points
    Okay, I've been in and around the auto parts business for years and this statement bugs me a little bit. The BRAND should never be withheld from the customer. Withholding the supplier is part of business. In this case... Rock Auto: CENTRIC 12034002 Premium Disc RAYBESTOS 9938R {#9938, F9938} Professional Grade; 4 Bolts Ireland Engineering: Replacement part. Standard solid brake rotor for Tii. Yet, the IE part is two and a half times more expensive. If price is an indication of quality I'd think IE would want to disclose the brand since its implied that its better. Just sayin'...
  26. 3 points
    Apologize for the length of this article, but I am just getting my new motor put back together and my thoughts have turned to timing, distributors, advance, carbs, etc. The experts can ignore this, but if you have always wanted a deeper understanding of these topics and why later model 2002's (like my 75) had different setups than earlier models, this article is very informative. Credit where credit is due - I pulled this from the bangshift.com BSForum. I would have just posted a link, but I hate when I find a link on a forum from a few years back and it is dead... hence the long post. ---------------------------------------------------- This was written by a former GM engineer as a response to a similar question on a Corvette board: As many of you are aware, timing and vacuum advance is one of my favorite subjects, as I was involved in the development of some of those systems in my GM days and I understand it. Many people don't, as there has been very little written about it anywhere that makes sense, and as a result, a lot of folks are under the misunderstanding that vacuum advance somehow compromises performance. Nothing could be further from the truth. I finally sat down the other day and wrote up a primer on the subject, with the objective of helping more folks to understand vacuum advance and how it works together with initial timing and centrifugal advance to optimize all-around operation and performance. I have this as a Word document if anyone wants it sent to them - I've cut-and-pasted it here; it's long, but hopefully it's also informative. TIMING AND VACUUM ADVANCE 101 The most important concept to understand is that lean mixtures, such as at idle and steady highway cruise, take longer to burn than rich mixtures; idle in particular, as idle mixture is affected by exhaust gas dilution. This requires that lean mixtures have "the fire lit" earlier in the compression cycle (spark timing advanced), allowing more burn time so that peak cylinder pressure is reached just after TDC for peak efficiency and reduced exhaust gas temperature (wasted combustion energy). Rich mixtures, on the other hand, burn faster than lean mixtures, so they need to have "the fire lit" later in the compression cycle (spark timing retarded slightly) so maximum cylinder pressure is still achieved at the same point after TDC as with the lean mixture, for maximum efficiency. The centrifugal advance system in a distributor advances spark timing purely as a function of engine rpm (irrespective of engine load or operating conditions), with the amount of advance and the rate at which it comes in determined by the weights and springs on top of the autocam mechanism. The amount of advance added by the distributor, combined with initial static timing, is "total timing" (i.e., the 34-36 degrees at high rpm that most SBC's like). Vacuum advance has absolutely nothing to do with total timing or performance, as when the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum drops essentially to zero, and the vacuum advance drops out entirely; it has no part in the "total timing" equation. At idle, the engine needs additional spark advance in order to fire that lean, diluted mixture earlier in order to develop maximum cylinder pressure at the proper point, so the vacuum advance can (connected to manifold vacuum, not "ported" vacuum - more on that aberration later) is activated by the high manifold vacuum, and adds about 15 degrees of spark advance, on top of the initial static timing setting (i.e., if your static timing is at 10 degrees, at idle it's actually around 25 degrees with the vacuum advance connected). The same thing occurs at steady-state highway cruise; the mixture is lean, takes longer to burn, the load on the engine is low, the manifold vacuum is high, so the vacuum advance is again deployed, and if you had a timing light set up so you could see the balancer as you were going down the highway, you'd see about 50 degrees advance (10 degrees initial, 20-25 degrees from the centrifugal advance, and 15 degrees from the vacuum advance) at steady-state cruise (it only takes about 40 horsepower to cruise at 50mph). When you accelerate, the mixture is instantly enriched (by the accelerator pump, power valve, etc.), burns faster, doesn't need the additional spark advance, and when the throttle plates open, manifold vacuum drops, and the vacuum advance can returns to zero, retarding the spark timing back to what is provided by the initial static timing plus the centrifugal advance provided by the distributor at that engine rpm; the vacuum advance doesn't come back into play until you back off the gas and manifold vacuum increases again as you return to steady-state cruise, when the mixture again becomes lean. The key difference is that centrifugal advance (in the distributor autocam via weights and springs) is purely rpm-sensitive; nothing changes it except changes in rpm. Vacuum advance, on the other hand, responds to engine load and rapidly-changing operating conditions, providing the correct degree of spark advance at any point in time based on engine load, to deal with both lean and rich mixture conditions. By today's terms, this was a relatively crude mechanical system, but it did a good job of optimizing engine efficiency, throttle response, fuel economy, and idle cooling, with absolutely ZERO effect on wide-open throttle performance, as vacuum advance is inoperative under wide-open throttle conditions. In modern cars with computerized engine controllers, all those sensors and the controller change both mixture and spark timing 50 to 100 times per second, and we don't even HAVE a distributor any more - it's all electronic. Now, to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum aberration. After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum, along came emissions requirements, years before catalytic converter technology had been developed, and all manner of crude band-aid systems were developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust stream. One of these band-aids was "ported spark", which moved the vacuum pickup orifice in the carburetor venturi from below the throttle plate (where it was exposed to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the throttle plate, where it saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle. This meant the vacuum advance was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its optimum value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static timing (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees AFTER TDC). This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature (due to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like crap, and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred through the exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run hot at idle - cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up, combustion efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down with it. If you look at the centrifugal advance calibrations for these "ported spark, late-timed" engines, you'll see that instead of having 20 degrees of advance, they had up to 34 degrees of advance in the distributor, in order to get back to the 34-36 degrees "total timing" at high rpm wide-open throttle to get some of the performance back. The vacuum advance still worked at steady-state highway cruise (lean mixture = low emissions), but it was inoperative at idle, which caused all manner of problems - "ported vacuum" was strictly an early, pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more. What about the Harry high-school non-vacuum advance polished billet "whizbang" distributors you see in the Summit and Jeg's catalogs? They're JUNK on a street-driven car, but some people keep buying them because they're "race car" parts, so they must be "good for my car" - they're NOT. "Race cars" run at wide-open throttle, rich mixture, full load, and high rpm all the time, so they don't need a system (vacuum advance) to deal with the full range of driving conditions encountered in street operation. Anyone driving a street-driven car without manifold-connected vacuum advance is sacrificing idle cooling, throttle response, engine efficiency, and fuel economy, probably because they don't understand what vacuum advance is, how it works, and what it's for - there are lots of long-time experienced "mechanics" who don't understand the principles and operation of vacuum advance either, so they're not alone. Vacuum advance calibrations are different between stock engines and modified engines, especially if you have a lot of cam and have relatively low manifold vacuum at idle. Most stock vacuum advance cans aren’t fully-deployed until they see about 15” Hg. Manifold vacuum, so those cans don’t work very well on a modified engine; with less than 15” Hg. at a rough idle, the stock can will “dither” in and out in response to the rapidly-changing manifold vacuum, constantly varying the amount of vacuum advance, which creates an unstable idle. Modified engines with more cam that generate less than 15” Hg. of vacuum at idle need a vacuum advance can that’s fully-deployed at least 1”, preferably 2” of vacuum less than idle vacuum level so idle advance is solid and stable; the Echlin #VC-1810 advance can (about $10 at NAPA) provides the same amount of advance as the stock can (15 degrees), but is fully-deployed at only 8” of vacuum, so there is no variation in idle timing even with a stout cam. For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling and efficiency in a street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full manifold vacuum. Absolutely. Positively.
  27. 3 points
    Last month I received a phone call from my dad wondering if I wanted to go look at a car that had been sitting for awhile. A friend he works with mentioned he had a car he needed to move from the field. I was hesitant to get myself into a project, but when he said a 2002, he had my attention. This 1975 was parked in 1990 and hadn't been moved since. She was the original owner and bought it new from Competition Imports on Long Island, before moving to Colorado. I bought it on a Sunday last month. Lots of critters had lived in it over the years and the interior was catastrophic. Before taking the car home, we looked through the interior for any memories - he father was a NYC cop and she wasn't sure what might still be in the car. We dug through a mess and sure enough, we found an old night stick that her father gave her for protection. It never left her car she said. Body appeared solid, but was hard to assess. Dogs had ripped out grill chasing critters over the years. Later in the week I returned, used the original jack and removed all 4 tires. 2 were replaced and 2 held air and we were able to pull it out. First project was to remove interior, which I did in a full haz mat suit and mask. That took a Saturday. On the following Sunday, one week after purchasing, my dad, myself, and my 4-1/2 year old spent a couple hours chasing mice eaten wires and troubleshooting, hooked up a battery and got the old girl to fire up and drive around the neighborhood. Car is solid. Spare tire only rusted out spot. Gas tank was spotless. Motor looks like new. Valves in perfect adjustment. Clutch master cylinder needed replaced. Last weekend was spent checking over everything in detail and changing fluids. Sunday I wanted to move the car to my dads garage, so it was the real first drive and the car pulled 85 MPH climbing out of town. It's parked now, brakes apart, parts on order and I'm making the plan for what to do. I figured I would start this post to track the cars progress and share with this great forum. Thanks for reading and I look forward to getting Suzie up to speed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  28. 3 points
    Speaking of Moorken's my '71 2002 had both of these ID plates. The Original owner had asserted it was delivered in Belgium with a C/R box and a Limited Slip diff. He drove it 225,000 miles of which 20,000 were on various race tracks. It's been my toy since 2001 and used in A/X and vintage racing.
  29. 3 points
    Final drive ratio is huge too, as is a lightweight flywheel...but I just meant don't preoccupy yourself too much with chasing a HP figure. Just build yourself a tight, strong, 2.0L motor, give it what it needs to breath (both inhale and exhale) and I'm sure you'll be ecstatic. Just my opinion. COOP
  30. 3 points
    That's what I did with my current 74 tii. My former tii was a Frankenstein, lots of bondo, body work (sunroof clip from another 02) and some rust. Instead of throwing money at it to fix it, I decided a clean start was in order. I found a Sahara 74 tii So Cal shell (no sunroof) and before I transferred everything over from my Frankenstein tii into the tii shell, the diving board to Euro bumper conversion was done and US spec sidemarker lights were removed and then the shell was repainted in its original color, Sahara. G-Man
  31. 3 points
    You could do a blow through turbo, you might as well start hitting yourself in the forehead with a dead blow hammer now just to get used to it before you start that project.
  32. 3 points
    that thing needs a lot of help. before looking any further....go buy a copy of McCarthy's book "02 Restoration Guide". (cheap on amazon). read it. TWICE. then you will know what you are looking out for and have a better idea of what the tasks are ahead of you.
  33. 3 points
    Here's my 76 Pastelblau
  34. 3 points
    Hope everyone is enjoying this beautiful day!
  35. 3 points
    I hadn't attended the Greene County Fourth of July Car Show for quite a few years. Mike Self invited me, so I cleaned off the bug splatters and drove 20 minutes to the show. They look great together and they got along famously.
  36. 3 points
    Some bling to finally go with the seats - just got these replaited seat rails back
  37. 3 points
    Start with a high-quality set of H4 headlamps, and NO tape. They are not the equivalent of zenon or LED lights, but they are pretty darned good! Since 1973, I've run H4 Marchals, H4 Cibie Z Beams (the best, in my opinion), and H1/H3 Marchal Amplilux (great lights but more complicated to wire and align than simple H4 conversions) and they'll get the job done. And then you can add driving lights and fog lights, just 'cuz they look cool! Regards, Steve
  38. 3 points
    Looks aren't everything, Ray! t
  39. 3 points
    Part number for the 12mm outer hex nuts (8mm x 1.25 thread pitch) is: 18 30 7 620 549 (may supersede to a new nr, but this will get them.) You'll want 8 of them for the manifold, plus an extra three for the downpipe, where it meets the center resonator seal ring. Part number for the three LARGER nuts (10mm thread) is 18 30 1 737 774. Get 3 of those for the manifold to downpipe, top side. If you want the gasket that doubles as a heat shield, and folds over the manifold (I prefer these over the tin ones) order one of this part number: 11 62 1 723 876. It's the heatshield / gasket from an early 318i. Works great. Downpipe to manifold gasket (3" x 2" with two holes, more or less) is 18 11 1 728 363. Take your time with the fasteners. If you're lucky - they have copper coated nuts on them, that should fit a 12mm wrench, like the replacement ones do. Use the highest quality wrenches you can afford. Once they strip - your misery starts. Some may or may not come out WITH the stud attached. Use a high temp thread sealer/locker to reinstall the studs, since some of them pass through oil galleys. Leaking exhaust studs can cause fires. Happened to my brother in a 68 1600, back in 1983.
  40. 3 points
    After twenty-one years I am without an 02. This is how she was in a lock-up when I first bought her A happier time on the way to Le Man and this is her leaving for the last time Bit gutted really. I have really enjoyed contributing to this site and hope that you lot keep up the good work. Regards JohnH
  41. 3 points
  42. 3 points
    Such a beautiful car to let go... a very sad day, indeed. I hope the new owner appreciates it as much as you have. FAQ is like The Eagles' Hotel California.... "You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave..." Ed Z
  43. 3 points
    Least we not forget the ole mechanic motto: *(your rates may vary in your location)
  44. 3 points
    It's a junkyard build, just hone it, assemble and break it in like it's the third session of one of your better track days. A: E12 pistons have a different quench area- this motor's never going to be a rocket, set up this way. It'll work, it just won't be optimal. 1- you're looking for a maximum running clearance in the .0015- .002 range- of it's much over .0025, it'll burn more oil, and at .0035, it doesn't seal well. This is really all that matters, and you can usually tell in about 15 minutes with an inside mic- if the area above the rings is less than a thou smaller than the widest ovalization directly below it on axis with the rod, you're fine. 2- a running clearance of .002 is fine, .003 works, and .004's not going to last. At the rods. The mains don't care, except maybe they'll eat all your oil pressure. Make sure the old bearings are standard. #3 rod bearing's usually the canary in the coal mine. A groove can usually be polished out well enough with crocus cloth. The bottom ends are stout- see A: above, and don't sweat too much 3- no idea. 4- I scrape with a razor blade. It sucks. 5- check which style stem seals you need. 284 will probably use standard, but ask Ireland. You measure it- 129mm is nominal thickness. 6- Assess the timing and oil chains and the sliders/tensioner. I look at the pockets of the sprockets- if they're smooth, they're pretty worn, and if the teeth are asymettrical, it's really worn. They come both flat- toothed and pointy, so that's not a guarantee either way. Also disassemble the oil pump and measure- there are specs for clearance, and use your judgement on gouges. All fasteners in good condtion are reusable. I have never had a bad experience with an m10 with any of the brands you indicate. Reinz seals fail for later engines, but I've used half a dozen of their M10 kits. That said, I'd look for Elring these days... See A:- don't go overboard with this lump, just put it together and run it. t
  45. 3 points
    I added this one to a friend's car recently. His had cracked just a bit higher than the brace you have now, so I would also suggest adding another, while you have the chance. I welded on on my car, with it still in the engine bay. that one was not as much fun. Nor as pretty.
  46. 3 points
    Those three dimples in the piece are there to add structural strength to the piece. If you are gonna make a piece, something similar needs to be in it. A flat piece will bow like a noodle and offer no strength.
  47. 3 points
    I say just turn the other cheek, get them back and refund. You are definitely the bigger man here. Some people are assholes and there is no reason why they should drag you down to their level.
  48. 3 points
    So after taking so much from this forum I thought I would give something back. I just installed some LED bulbs from Super Bright Led's after reading so much about led bulbs in general. I was looking for before and after and couldn't find any. So I will post some before and after below. Now all i need to do is find something to replace the tail light lens seal. But I think someone has come up with some. Here is the "before" rear tail light, same ambient light Here is the after picture Before respray After Respray Here is a pic of the anti strobe resistor soldered in place. I know it heats up, but considering it is just the flasher, it should be fine in the tail light assembly as it will be on only intermittently. I hope you find it helpful. I feel like I will be seen better. I also have a high mount tail light, but I am on the fence about it. Now it is time to do the front turn signals and convert the headlights to H4's with LED's in them. Regards M
  49. 3 points
    Yeah, that's me (and a handful of the cars I've built, prep, etc). A pretty-good number of sedans running with VARA lately. Here's a shot of three of us battling in Sonoma earlier this month. Video coming. -KB
  50. 3 points
    I just posted the video from the Sonoma Historics. I had a great battle with Steve Schmidt in his twin turbo 935. Needless to say the 935 handled very well down the straights, but Luigi could catch him in the corners.I also ran my 1935 315 roadster. There are some pretty cool cars in the pre-war group!Here's the link:Thanks to Dennis Gray for the photo.