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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Although some don't particularly care for my brand of social media content and flow, I do at times pay it forward. SO there is that. If you are rebuilding your door cards and have found the original INNER window rub strip has gone the way of dust. Here is a quick fix. The cost of a single new strip is over $50. My repair costs about $10 for both windows. See pictures. I used the soft side of black self-adhesive Velcro and glued it to the original metal substrate. I removed all the old fuzzy material leaving the rubber backing attached. Apply contact cement and affix. Works and looks great. But what do I know.
  2. 10 points
  3. 6 points
    Take it to a race track- then it'll feel all loose and floppy! Problem solved. t
  4. 5 points
    November Saturday afternoon in the SF Bay Area, 72 degrees washing the car then a jaunt on Hiway 13 in the Oakland Hills.
  5. 5 points
    A response to the changed California SMOG laws (no Webers nor headers allowed) at the 200,000 mile ground up restoration costing ultimately twice the cost of a new 1991 318iS. I never thought it was a "tribute" at the time (just more power), but there it was, celebrating 400,000 miles. At first I didn't like the color, but bought the car from a friend with "only" 50,000 miles in, uh, 1977 for $4000..at the time, it had the dreaded clear coat issues; but I just deemed it "self cleaning paint". After the repaint, I grew to like the uniqueness much like Turkis and Ceylon; so much for being ubiquitous.
  6. 5 points
    If I give you a weather map, will you Sharpie the winter weather away?
  7. 4 points
  8. 4 points
    The original (a.k.a., Euro) version of the sport wheel has a long perforated oval on each of the three spokes. The U.S. version of the sport wheel, as shown here, replaced the long perforated ovals with long indented ovals, to conform with D.O.T. regulations. The Euro version seems to have appeared contemporaneously with the ti; the U.S. version seems to have appeared ca. 1970, after the “fire in the steering wheel factory”! For some period of time, it appears that both versions were in production. I’ve seen both versions of the sport wheel and the stock three-spoke wheel referred to as “bus wheels”, so I figure any big wheel is a “bus wheel”... 👍 Best regards, Steve
  9. 3 points
    The last of Jimmy Hoffa laid to rest?
  10. 3 points
    It's been said many times, so I'll say it this time... Maybe just drive the car for a while, get used to it. They're really pretty good just being hopped up a little bit. K swap would be way easier and is way more common than the F20/F22. There are even adapter plates already available to BMW 5 speed transmissions. But really, I'd just drive it for a while and get used to it. My last one had a bit of a built M10 (stock) engine. Was it slow compared to my s54 motor? Yep. Was it slow in general? Nope. The engines really are good.
  11. 3 points
    It's funny that you mention that as I was literally having a conversation with them two days ago that included that! It's not a complete exterior cosmetic restoration so it won't include the engine bay but they are painting the fenders up to the point where they bolt on to the engine bay sidewalls. Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
  12. 3 points
    A couple of years ago I would have thought, “that’s nice... it’s almost done” but having gone through most of what you’ve gone through to get where you are, I have to say congrats on reaching what is a MAJOR milestone in the restoration of your Alpina! Looking forward to seeing a fresh coat of Verona on there (assuming you’re keeping it original)!!
  13. 3 points
    LOVE IT. The anticipation is almost better than the "finished" product. Enjoy it all!
  14. 3 points
    Yes, quite rare... this was best example I could find... would have preferred Taiga but finally “settled” on a very sweet ‘73 in Malaga.
  15. 3 points
    No, Marc owns it. And it's nicer than the BaT car, with 2.5 and a/c! Well, other than the wheels Cheers,
  16. 3 points
  17. 2 points
    are they on backwards?
  18. 2 points
    Here's an even funnier flashback from 1984! Me with my first 1976 2002 that I purchased in 1983 for $5000 with 89k on it, from the original owner in Diamond Bar. Notice the period correct Guess jeans....
  19. 2 points
    Grew up in Palo Alto, live in Santa Clara now- Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
  20. 2 points
    do that and get a maxjack or a real lift. +1 Digging holes and refilling was not as bad as I thought it was.
  21. 2 points
    do that and get a maxjack or a real lift.
  22. 2 points
    I've done 18 fewer than Matt...and did only the suspension bushings and lower ball joints, as my Bilsteins were in the good shape as were my steering links. Not including the cleaning and painting time--and making the bushing pullers (plastic plumbing pipe, thick washers and big bolts & nuts) about 5-6 hours per side. That doesn't include extracting rusted and disintegrating ball joint nuts from inside the steering knuckles, or easing out the three "bitch bolts" that hold the strut to the ball joint mount (none of mine broke, thank goodness). Those will add time to your work schedule. It isn't a difficult job so long as you're patient and have the means to extract broken fittings. I did both my cars over successive winters when I wasn't driving 'em anyway, so took my time. mike PS--when you pull the strut housings, if you find the lower spring cups are full of dirt and rust, open out the drain holes a bit; they're way too small to allow even small pebbles to fall out, and dirt will quickly accumulate in those cups, causing rust.
  23. 2 points
    I have a two post which yields about 6.5 feet of under car clearance. My input is not gonna be of any use here.
  24. 2 points
    Hi as I am going the Weber route I am selling a set of NOS Italian Dergo intake trumpets. These will only fit Solex and they will not fit your 02 with ti Brakebooster. So they are suitable only for Neue Klasse / CS or perhaps the early ti with the remote brake Booster. As for RHD - I have no idea Asking 330 USD shipped CONUS
  25. 2 points
    John Car Transport (603) 479-0956 is based in Bedford NH but transports around NE and beyond. Works with VSR. He moved my non running 2002 no problem in his enclosed trailer. If you call him, you will be dealing with him (or his wife) not some broker.
  26. 2 points
    Milford CT to <where>? 🙂 I can't help with your request, unfortunately. However, I bet someone has a referral to share. Jason
  27. 2 points
    I'll be in LG!!! S2000 swapped coming in hot! sorry in advance for the exhaust db.....
  28. 2 points
    Peter, The 2015 Ebay auction Seller's ID was chriszilla The link below is for a chriszilla on Ebay that may well be the same. This one is in Horseheads in NY which is not that far away from Farmington. HTH. https://www.ebay.com/contact/sendmsg?item_id=1&recipient=chriszilla&message_type_id=14
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
    The high water mark of 2002/S14 conversion sales: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-bmw-2002tii-11/ What an absolutely gorgeous car (minus the goofy speaker “pods” on the doors). I was fortunate enough to see it in person and it was spectacular...hope the new owner is driving it.
  31. 2 points
    I recently overhauled the front suspension on my 71 2002. As part of the job I replaced both tie rods. No matter what I tried I could not break the joint on the passenger side inboard end. In frustration I took a generic pitman arm puller/buster that I already had, but could not use because it was too wide at the jaws, and modified it so that it resembled the joint buster sold by Bavauto. The tool I started with is a Cal Van 194 Pitman arm puller with hook opening of 1 1/8 in. These things are available at auto parts stores for around $15. I have seen them with the Performance tool brand name. The part I used to narrow the jaw opening is a 2 in OD X 13/16 in ID X 1/8 in thick steel washer from the hardware store. I ground flats on opposite sides of the washer so it would fit between the arms and sit flat on the jaws of the puller. Then I hack sawed a slot in the washer equal to the dia of the hole in the washer. The pics attached should help figure this out. One pic shows the puller and the modified washer side by side. The other shows the washer in place on the jaws. I slid the washer in the joint first the followed it with the puller and adjusted the puller so that the tapered tie rod pin lined up with the screw in the puller. I torqued down the screw and the joint came apart with a bang, sending parts flying in all directions. Next time I will leave the castle nut on the tie rod pin to help keep things together. Welding the washer to the puller would also help but might limit the adjustability of the combination. If you decide to use this idea be sure to protect yourself from flying objects. In terms of full disclosure, I have used this tool only once and the joint had been heavily massaged by other methods so it may have been ready to give up when I used the buster. However, it worked for me. Charlie
  32. 2 points
    This is what you can get for just under $10K in the Porsche world. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/los-angeles-1968-porsche-912-targa-soft/7010393991.html No wonder the Porsche crowd finds the 02 a bargain at $20K. How can they even think of asking this much for this heap of rust ??
  33. 2 points
    Ummm.... are you certain he was referring to ball joint separators, Nick? 😉 Best regards, Steve
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    I thought it is a steering wheel discussion.
  36. 2 points
    +1 Exactly, Ed! 👍 Here’s my gripe session for the day: The Registry is so damned easy to use, and has so few categories of sortable data, why can’t more forum members (a.) request BMW Group Archives data on their entries (FREE, TAKES 30 SECONDS to send an email with the car’s VIN to [email protected]); (b.) enter their car in the Registry; and (c.) spend ten minutes loading the complete data and (lots of) photos into their entries? Why? Well, just for example, once you’ve noted in the sortable field that your car is Taiga, wouldn’t it be nice to show what it looks like? Embarassed to show off a “project”? Get over it! All 50 year old cars are located somewhere along the “project car spectrum”! 😉 Most of the sortable categories have drop-down lists that make them so friggin’ easy to use, and nearly impossible to screw up! 🤔 Everyone wants more data on the cars, but no one wants to spend ten minutes so we can have it at our fingertips! Get off yer butts! 😯 There: I feel a bit better. Best regards, Steve
  37. 2 points
    https://www.bmw2002faq.com/colors/ Sadly, the Taiga category is void of car pics 😫
  38. 2 points
    Here are a few of my favorite shots!
  39. 2 points
  40. 2 points
    I have some pedals to sell also, if Bavman25 sells his set. For the record, I've known bavman25 (Al) about 20+ years. he is among the finest personalities in the whole cotton-pickin' classic BMW scene. I don't see any reason that more than one person can't offer parts / answer a parts wanted posting. I think of it as "ebay in reverse" where it keeps prices from getting stupid. just my .02. Paul (in it since 1985)
  41. 2 points
    That gasket has been a poor fit for years. A paper hole punch can be used to fix that. Use the punch to elongate the holes JUST A SMALL AMOUNT. Also, the mis-alignment is exaggerated if the gasket is not applied uniformly onto each stud. In your picture the gasket is angled and therefore won't fit on the final stud. Nice work on the engine. Looks like an Ingram Kfish rebuild.
  42. 2 points
    putting poly EVERYWHERE in the suspension of these cars is a mistake for street driven 02. makes the ride harsh. only place it should be used is the sway bars. new stock rubber should be used everywhere else.
  43. 2 points
    My poly motor mounts broke. I have since replaced them with OEM motor mounts. Inspect them often. My driver side poly mount failed suddenly far from home. I had to wire tie the mount to make the 200 mile trip. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  44. 2 points
    If one needs more clearance for sidedrafts, or want to replace a failed brake booster, I offer a twin MC booster delete kit that is compatible with the 2002 bolt pattern as the kit was initially designed for the e30 chassis, and it shares the same mounting bolt pattern. It can be set-up for 6:1 and 7:1 pedal ratios. Latest version as fitted to an e46 brake tower
  45. 2 points
    Honestly, there are sooo many wires there that I was concerned I would get confused and never get it wired up correctly if I started cutting. As it was, I still made mistakes and had to triple check my work. If concerned about resale, it also makes sense but that was not my main concern. That said, if I was to cut wires and make it permanent, I would do lineman's soldered joints rather than crimp butt-joints. I used them on all my EFI wiring. Good luck! Lineman splice/ joint:
  46. 2 points
    Yep, that works, and if you put a lot of grunt on it and it doesn't want to pop, then whack on top of it with a hammer.. Stuff REALLY flies then. Or whack both sides of the arm at the same time. That seems to do it, too. The one I REALLY hate is the drag link. t
  47. 1 point
    If he/she is a flipper, where will it go? Already feels like it is close to the top of the price range, S14 or not. ~Jason
  48. 1 point
    I bought this one and it worked great Lisle 28100 Torque Angle Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STSW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dB0YDbPKMNE6E The head gasket came with angle torque instructions
  49. 1 point
    Thanks for the very quick reply. The bracket is installed correctly. The photo makes it seem wrong. The pipe is misaligned - nearly touching the tunnel.
  50. 1 point
    I'm a hopeful bastard. My hope would be that the pistons are really not in very bad shape. I know, it's a long shot... but they're the only really valuable part in an old 2002 motor! So to that end, I'd pull the crank. Then I'd try all the tricks above, including Coke (with phosphates in it to remove rust) and try to get the bores clean. If'n that didn't work, I'd try to move each piston down in the bore, being careful not to bang the skirt into anything. Then I'd mechanically remove the rust with a hone with old stones on it, and remove the pistons one at a time. If they'll come out. At this point, putting the crank back in to use to move the piston sometimes helps. But getting the pistons isolated by removing the crank's a real help- often 2 or 3 aren't really stuck, it's the one that had the intake open that was the real problem case... then once the others are out, you can put the crank back in to get the problem case out. t

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