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Showing most liked content since 03/01/2017 in all areas

  1. 14 likes
    This has been an 'interesting' (tiresome?) week of for sale posts on the FAQ, Craigslist, Facebook, etc ... high prices for rusty cars, parts listed for more than retail, and items listed with no prices at all... I resisted all that, instead focusing on a '75 on sale on Craigslist. I got in touch with the seller, brought cash and a trailer and closed the deal this morning. (I was lucky, I guess, in that the first buyer to see the car yesterday arrived in a big, white Caddy who knew nothing about cars, told weird stories and acted in a way they just didn't want to sell it to him). Genuine and sweet couple, even offered to take Laurie and I to lunch. I couldn't imagine a more pleasant transaction. It's a '75, numbers-matching, with what-I'm-pretty-sure is all original paint. A/C as you'd expect in the desert. Sunrooof opens. The fellow did a quick rub of the hood, it presented well. No rust or rust repairs. Engine is all there, looks like the distributor cap actually melted .... like most other plastic/rubber parts on the car. Anyway, the moral is, there are good cars and sellers out there. Keep the faith. -KB
  2. 13 likes
    Busy weekend here at Willow Springs with VARA (pro trans am series also here). 27 cars in the sedan run group, over a dozen 2002's. Here's the corral of our BMW 2002 race cars. -KB
  3. 11 likes
    For those of you not on the Facebook....here's some news: Last weekend I spent about 2 hours at a huge family farm in Pennsylvania. I found this thing. A 1973 tii that was partially disassembled in 1980 and has not seen daylight since. Turkis. Original paint. Sunroof. Moderate/minor shock tower and rocker rust - but easily repaired. Engine was removed at 106k miles for swapping of a lower mileage earlier (121ti) engine and exterior/interior trim removed for paint. None of the parts were ever re-installed and the paint was never done....and all the original correct parts sit in storage - along with the original numbers matching engine and spare early engine. Sometimes life happens...and it happened to the previous owner for 37 years. Hoping to drag it home next month. The car is 60 miles (a 90 minute drive) from my home, so I can't visit it regularly...though I'll be going back to prep it for transport soon. So blown away by this thing, that I didn't check for things like snorkel nose or other details. I'm going with my gut on this one. It'll be fine. My favorite thing about this score, is the fact that a little girl wrote her name in the dust, on the passenger side window...and it's still visible. That little girl is the seller's daughter and she's now in her 30s. This fills me with love and joy. No matter how much you spend on a car, there are some things that money can't buy. Ephemera such as this, is among them. Planning on taking my time with this car. It will sit under a tarp until I have time and money to bring it back to life. Also will be selling any extra parts to re-coup my expenses in purchasing it. Imagine if you will....a tii with only SEVEN YEARS of road use. Hell! My brake pads are older than that! Stay tuned for updates. The Turkis Circus is coming to town!!!!!!
  4. 11 likes
    Uber rare vintage authentic hard to find NLA Alpina-like Ti & Turbo NOS gently used, little rust, ran when parked shit for sale. Too many to list or even provide a price, (cause I'm lazy) so you're gonna have to get in line and chase me down. Testing waters: If there is a lot of interest I will hold out for the highest offer. I'm new to this site and maybe even the world of vintage BMW's. Have a pile of parts laying around. Lately the world has gone mad over these little cars, just look at Bring-A-Trailer, Tii's are selling for $50K and I'm looking to cash-in on the gold rush. I feel my stuff is worth more than it is and more than retail too. So give it your best try and "win" these goodies from me. If no offers I'll just keep in all or throw it away. PM me for parts & price cause whatever you want to pay is not enough. I know what this stuff is worth (yet I won't list a price) so don't insult with low ball offers.
  5. 11 likes
    My nine yr old daughter was playing with the dog in the front yard and then walked over and asked "Dad can I help?" I showed her how to check and top off the oil. Very proud dad.
  6. 8 likes
    I actually bought it today! Now I await delivery from Arizona. Its a 1968 Caribe 1600-2 that was for sale here on the board.
  7. 8 likes
    I started repairing the front passenger side firewall/floor Old piece of floor Old firewall piece And the front chassis rail I then cleaned all the rust of the chassis rail and treated it with Brunox New patch which will make making the new firewall patch easier Old firewall By laying the old piece on a sheet of metal I was able to trace out the shape Swage line added Bended the lower piece of the patch, I had to relieve cut to make forming this easier Sandblasted the piece so I ws able to see the shape better of the patch Also welded in a new plate for the chassis rail Ground smooth I'll probably finish the firewall tomorrow
  8. 7 likes
    Here are a few pics from my photoshoot!
  9. 7 likes
    Just picked up a new-to-me daily driver: 1986 VW Syncro Westfalia Vanagon. He's got all the bells and whistles - Subaru engine conversion, suspension and wheel upgrades, new paint, tent and seals, etc. I. Am. Stoked. I spent the day working out some electrical gremlins (clean those brown wire grounds!) and he's now working perfectly. We've already have several summer trips planned - river rafting in Moab, visiting Arches National Park, and catching the solar eclipse in Central Oregon in August. More to come for sure. And as is tradition in our household, my kids have named him Otto Van Gonzo! Cheers, James
  10. 7 likes
    I had to post this because its a great day for the 02! My engine was spitting oil and was using about a quart of oil every few hundred miles. Smoked on deceleration and the cockpit smelled like burning oil. The rear of my car also was hard to keep clean because of so much black soot collecting back there. I had the top end redone a few years back to fix a major oil leak as well as put in a 292 cam and do new valves, rockers, valve springs etc...So I didn't want a complete rebuild...I wanted the engine to be strong and healthy and I didn't have the cash for a full on rebuild. I talked to Ken Blasko and he came up with an alternative. With the block still in the car, he pulled the head and pistons. He checked the cylinders. They were ok so he gave them a honing. Then replaced bearings, rod and crank were ok. Then came the pistons. They were bad. Ring landings were way out of spec so thats probably why the engine was spitting oil. The rings were not seating properly. Found a set of 89.47mm pistons that were 9:5 to 1 compression (mine were probably 8.5:1) and Ken cleaned them up...he put the engine back together and then gave it a tune, set the curve and vacuum on the123/Tune distributor as well as other odds and ends around the car, like motor mount, guibo, shift plate bushings, etc..The car now is a completely different beast! The power is smooth yet happy to rev to redline. Idle is solid and no oil spitting at all. I learned soooo much about these motors its crazy and I didn't even do the work! Ken is a pleasure to work with and he explains things in a way that you understand and learn how it all works. This is a big deal for me as since I have owned it the motor has never been this strong and solid. 6 years ago I dropped a used engine in it that served me well and I got probably over 100k miles out of it. I now look forward to many many miles and years on this motor before its time to do a wild and hardcore build! If you are in SoCal, and need some work done on your 02 dont hesitate to discuss it with Ken.
  11. 6 likes
    Here's some interior pics of Derby! Notice some of the rare pieces like the metal rear view mirror, the seat hinges, the two tone euro only seats, the silver instrument cluster in km/h, the chrome under dash, under the seat levers, the chrome window crank and door handle, hazard light under the dash, the original carpeting, white visors, original steering wheel.....! 😉 What I love What I love seeing is the What I love seeing is chrome ignition area where it says "Garage" and "Halt" ... Also, what's interesting to me is the key chain tag... I'm wondering if the original owner got the keys from the dealership and the keys came with the little imprinted tag "1600-2"... Derby originally didn't come with seatbelts... and there was no way that I wanted to have the holes poked in the rear panels... so I had the masterful mechanic Bill Arnold install the Klippans for me in the B pillar... I liked that the car had no seatbelts... but if I'm gonna drive Derby... I have to have them in.. Safety first! And yes... I already have the PC door arm rests to swap out... So cool to see all original parts from 1967 in a 1600! More pics to come! Hope everyone has a wonderful and safe weekend! 🍀😊
  12. 6 likes
  13. 6 likes
    Awesome! Hopefully she shows a continual interest and it becomes a daughter / father activity. My daughter always referred to my '73 tii as "the red car". She never got her hand dirty working on it, but after she learned stick on the Honda Civic (she took her drivers test on that) she wanted to drive the tii in our little 4th of July parade. As you can imagine, 20 or so vintage cars, all driven by middle aged guys... then this high school girl shows up in a little red BMW... she got lots of attention that afternoon. For a couple of years it became a little tradition, and she'd take her brother along to help through candy out the window. I also taught her how to get the cute boys attention who where walking down the sidewalk by downshifting and letting the engine make a little noise.
  14. 6 likes
    Took pictures of the engine and interior for my insurance company
  15. 5 likes
    No auction on these but they are coming out in the next year. NMNA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 5 likes
    Nut and Bolt Restoration is an often misused phrase, but in this case that's exactly what I've been up to. All fasteners and bracketry have been wire wheeled or glass bead blasted to bare metal and freshly replated. Now as I enter the reassembly phase, each component will have the appearance that it would have when leaving the factory. Sure, replacement hardware is available, but it lacks the aesthetic originality. The small thin washers, short headed bolts, original markings, shallow castle nuts and original finishes are just not available at the local hardware store. When finished, everything should have that "just right" look to it that can't be replicated with anything but the original bits.
  17. 5 likes
    "I've got this silverface Fender Vibrolux that I'm thinking of to converting to solid state".... jb
  18. 5 likes
    Steve Walker is such an amazing steward and friend of the marque. Met him in Monterey in August 2016, one of the highlights of that incredible day. My friend Joe Rodriguez has a street legal 3.5 CSL Tribute that sports an S38.
  19. 5 likes
    Yesterday I got my parts back from the plater. I also gave him another batch of other parts to plate. This will make it easier to sort everything. All the parts that need to get sorted out: Box full of new nuts, bolts and washers Car parts, hubs, rods, brackets... Some more specific nuts and bolts And some white plated parts, mostly for the alternator. The plates for the horns didn't turn out great, looks like these weren't steel..? I'll go ahead an blast these again and just paint them silver And the sorting begins! And started sorting the more specific nuts and bolts. By printing the pictures I took when sandblasting the parts it's very easy to sort everything! Gotta love details like these Washers for the horns with their Hz rating SWF (now Valeo?) marking on the wiper arms
  20. 5 likes
    There seems to be an inordinate number of non-enthusiasts trying to shill parts on these pages at the moment. Either through a highest bidder scheme or just outright asking for a number that is above what the part can be had new through one of the many different sources we have available. Members should do their homework and remain aware of this. Caveat Emptor!
  21. 5 likes
    there should be mandatory PRICE, LOCATION & CONTACT INFO required before being able to make a post in the for sale forums
  22. 5 likes
    Sure; I don't have any samples as of yet because I haven't determined which alloy I want to use. The difference is between overkill and really overkill. Back in the'80s when I worked rebuilding these boxes, you could get the bushings and all the other parts, including the bearing races and shims that hold the worm. That is no longer the case as we know. Since I bought extras, I have everything but those bushings, or have sources for them. So, after going through my pile of spare steering boxes (4), one of which is the CR box (I bought for $400 in the '90s) I dimensioned out each box to see the variances in wear correlating with age. What I found is that the shafts wear a minute amount. Normally, that wouldn't be a big thing, but when you look at the length of the shaft from the roller, where minute movement translates to significance at the steering wheel, a thousanth or two makes a big difference. In addition, the fact that the arm is about 6" long the movement, IIRC it will be about 1/8", which is not acceptable to me. The upper bushing factors in here, but really only becomes worn if the box is not shimmed properly, was adjusted improperly, or the lower bushings are worn. I want these boxes better than stock in durability and better than stock in dimensionality. Since I am looking at bronze bushings instead of bronze lined steel (OE) the coefficient of expansion is different and the tolerances are different. Therefore for me, since there are no stock bushings that suffice, the best way is to have a bushing with a thicker wall made and precision ream to the proper clearance for the given shaft. Were talking less than 0.002". In addition there is room in the box to fit up to a 1.5" lower bushing set, not just 1" as is OE. A 50% increase in surface area would then negate the need for the top bushing from an axial load point of view. In addition, one reason these boxes fail is lubrication. Even though the boxes lose lubrication via the lower seal over many years, the fact is that there is little clearance in the OE setup to allow the 90W lube to constantly get to the bushings, particularly in cold climates. I am having grooves put in the ID that will allow the lubrication to flow all the way down to the bottom of the shaft to constantly lubricate the bearing surface. I surmise that it would be best to actually pull a vacuum on the system after the lube is installed to get the air out from below. I am also considering using Krytox oil, but at a 300ml fill that will cost over $100.00. I have used these lubes for many years and can say they work great. Once and done. You may just want to put in a bushing with the stock ID and call it a day. Those are easy. I will find out the lead times. Incidentially, my 177 box has the least wear of them all, then the Turbo box (OE but rebuilt by me ~51K ago), than the others I have. The most wear comes in the boxes that had no lubrication due to a failed lower seal; which is to be expected. In the end, these boxes are very sensitive to dimensional changes and need to be shimmed correctly with the proper play in the bushings. Just changing the adjustment screw will not solve any issues here. Same with the bearings. If you have any slop in your system without it binding, then it was not done right. Ted
  23. 5 likes
    Painted the trunk. Shock top bolt covers are on the way.
  24. 5 likes
    Started to color the diagram this a few years ago and finished it today. just reply if you found an error ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT DIAGRAM BMW 1502-2002 73 color 05032017.pdf Info 73.pdf
  25. 5 likes
    FYI this seller won't provide a price-you have to guess and offer hoping he likes it or uses your offer in an auction style against another's offer. He claims to have an offer of $650.00 for the grill set and did not sell, that should give you a sense of his expectations if you hope to buy the entire lot don't think he is gonna take anything less than retail based on the part number research. Just list your price(s), why does everything have to be a game of how much you willing to pay.
  26. 4 likes
    Started installing shocks, IE Springs and sway bars. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  27. 4 likes
    Lemme clear something up. Std First over Second Over. In America. STD is the factory hole size. First over is sometimes called "Twenties". or 0.020" over which is 0.5mm. Second over is "forties" or 0.040" or 1mm over. (Some engines like Small block chevys etc will have 0.060 and 0.080" bores as well) Europe has this love affair with tiny oversizes. Sometimes (depends on engines and we are leaving air-cooled stuff out of this since that just messes everything up) First oversize is 0.010" or 0.25mm. Second oversize 0.020" or 0.5mm and then sometimes they will do a third oversize of 0.040" or 1mm. Other times they will stick to the traditional norms of twenties and forties. It varies by engine. To an American machinist, they will look at you like you've lost your ever loving mind if you show up with .010" pistons. Here's the reason. Your hole is out of spec and IIRC the out of spec on an 02 cylinder is like 0.003" too big. So you've got to understand the limitations of the equipment. A dial bore gauge measures diameter across the bore but not in reference to the centerline of the hole. It's just the distance across the hole. The wear in the bore is usually on one side. The thrust side. So a prudent machinist will locate off the bottom of the cylinder, where ring travel is minimal and there is little wear. Now boring a hole 0.010" (first oversize) in some engines goes like this. Set the machine up for 0.008" bore which is really only .004" off each side of the hole. Then you are going to hone out the last 0.002" of the bore to achieve a proper surface finish. Now if everything is great then yes, first oversize would work but in reality, the engines don't have sealing problems until .004-0.005" wear is in the bore. By that point, the hole won't clean up at 0.010" over. As much as people feel that the least off is the best, the reality is that most blocks will require at least 0.020". What ends up happening is 3 of the 4 holes clean up but one has an eyebrow looking wear spot at the top of the rings that won't clean up and then you do the job all over again. Most customers don't want to pay twice and most machinists are not working for free. So either buy the size he says will work or be prepared to loose it all. You can always sleeve a block to standard, that is where you cut out like 0.125" out of the block, press in a new cast iron liner, and then bore it back out to standard. Obviously expensive and time-consuming. I know the local shop here charges $80 a hole + the sleeve which is around $30-40. A sleeved block will need to be surfaced as well. It's possible to do it without but you need a very skilled hand and it still won't be as nice of a job. Now, back when these pistons were made, there were two ways of clearance. The clearance was in the piston or in the hole. A piston has about a 0.002-0.003" clearance between the bore and the piston. This is for expansion. Aluminum piston vs cast iron block. So a Mahle piston is like 88.97 (stamped on top). This indicates to the machinist that the clearance is in the piston. Not in the hole. Sometimes piston manufacturers made a 90mm piston for a bore that was 90mm. So the machinist had to make the clearance between the two and measure it out. So 90mm = 3.5433" So if you've got a 90mm piston that needs 0.002" clearance then you need a 3.545-3.546" hole. This is how sizing pistons is done, clearance is factored in, and the thought into a proper overbore size.
  28. 4 likes
    Bled the brakes (highly recommend the Motive Power Bleeder) and took it on its maiden voyage since installing the motor and 5 speed. Maiden voyage was just around the block!
  29. 4 likes
    Did some welding! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  30. 4 likes
    Made a shroud for my dash clock out of a scrap piece of oak.
  31. 4 likes
    Went back and forth on how to finish my valve cover. Powder coating was the choice:
  32. 4 likes
    Marshall - The owner was put in touch with me, via the BMW CCA (he's an old schooler... prefers not to mess on the internet) in order to establish a value for the car. I was completely honest with him and told him what I thought it would be worth, realistically....and that I couldn't afford that much - but that I'd love to save it. Over the following few days, he and I worked out a price that seems quite fair to both of us. He's a super good human - and we got along well. As you know...in such things, chemistry is always half of it.
  33. 4 likes
    Holy hell. Just replacing the heater control valve because my car never had one. Doing this with big fat hands without removing the heater box, fighting hose flex just to assemble 3 tiny screws from the back.... I haven't cursed that much in a while. Haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  34. 4 likes
    Thanks, so if I want to copy that car that is pictured I would be able to put the Alpina graphics on it but if someone asked me if it was a real Alpina I would say of course not it's just a copy/clone. thanks everyone i'm off to go find an Alpina dashboard plaque so I can install it in my garaged car today and make pretend. 👍🏼
  35. 4 likes
    Alan, I enjoy the 2002 community a lot BECAUSE of the very accommodating nature of it's enthusiasts. The overwhelming majority of us are able to enjoy each other's cars/choices without casting disdain or judgement. I would be shocked if you would EVER receive negative feedback from a 2002 guy. "Is it a real Alpina?" is a mind-numbing question you will only get from someone who doesn't know 2002's very well. Historically speaking, very few early "Alpina" cars have any documentation you would expect (plaques, factory records, etc.). A set of shocks/springs from them could constitute for having the badge put in place. If you are building the car for yourself, and are transparent in regards to your actions, then I see no problems.
  36. 4 likes
    took off a couple of hours early and cruised thru the hill country...all the way to Oatmeal
  37. 4 likes
    $8 later, I just replace them... ...he says, unfrugally. t
  38. 4 likes
    Installed heater box and dash Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  39. 4 likes
    I have a set of mahle 89.47 low compression piano tops which just came out of a rebuilt 2000 Tilux motor. I am just going to set these Pistons aside, as I am having a high-performance motor built with higher compression pistons. The Pistons looked fine in the car and had excellent compression all across. I would be happy to give you these Pistons, and suggest that you call my mechanic friend Neil at 82 auto works, and offer to pay him To wrap them up, put them in a box and send them to you. They can be a gift from me, helping to make the BMW universe and you happier. I think it is reasonable to offer to pay Neil for his time and hassle of packaging, but how long can it take to box them up and send them to the post office. Send me a PM if you are interested and I will send Neil's phone number back. Best regards, Peter
  40. 4 likes
    What a time to be alive. When the old guys complain about the insane prices of parts being sold by new guys. PS: I identify with the old guys.
  41. 4 likes
    There will be lots of reports from folks who attended all the 100/50 Year Anniversary events around the world last year. Tons of door prizes Dozens of cool 02s So much 02 Knowledge in one place that any question you could possible have on 2002s can be answered (and correctly too I might add) Heck, you can even get Keith to adjust your Tii fuel system if you wanted, Or have Jack tell you how to drive an 02 Or have Terry, well Terry can talk about any subject you want because he has done it all. And Ben, well Ben sets us all straight!!! Bringing this if I can get it all together in time
  42. 4 likes
    For those who wish to remain "clunkless", the VDO quartz clock is a nice option. It took me years of hand-wringing over drilling a hole in my dash....but when I realized the cut-out in the bulkhead and perforation on the back of the dash for the clock was already there....I just did it. Measure 3 times and cut once. I used a 2 1/8" hole saw on a cordless drill. I made a 3-pin plug by cutting off a section of a 9-pin appliance plug. Correct wire colors: Red = 12V, Brown = ground, Grey = light (dimmer).
  43. 4 likes
    Cleaned up the mess after pulling the motor out the bottom. Then started tear down.
  44. 4 likes
    Rubber dude. Good rubber saves lives and good rubber prevents lives ifyouknowwhatimean.
  45. 4 likes
    JohnP 02 Here is the full frontal! This is 5x13 dated 9. 70. Regards
  46. 4 likes
    Ok here's the finished product if anyone is interested and one of the engine mounted just for fun 😀
  47. 4 likes
    Powder coated (Killer Koatings, Cincinnati), refurbished, and reinstalled headlight buckets. No more blisters on thumbs from turning 43-yo recalcitrant adjustment screws.
  48. 4 likes
    RCA Victor. Putting it between the shock towers in the back to balance out the Frigidaire in the front seat. All period correct of course.
  49. 4 likes
  50. 4 likes
    Unless this is made of some dark matter only available in Mars, I can do $200 each for minimum 10 orders.