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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 20 points
    Well my BMW brothers and sisters, I'm falling down the slippery slope. About two years ago I bought a 1969 BMW 2002 race car that had been raced in the Pennsylvania Hillclimb association, and later extensively SCCA campaigned by Alan Dukes. Alan was a racing friend of my Dads( they had both raced hill climbs in the 1960s) I got to know over the years. I think I was about 10 years old when I first visited his shop in Trucksville Pennsylvania. It was a fascinating place, there was a Lamborghini MIURA there that had caught on fire. Too many leaky Weber carburetors I guess. There was also a silver BMW 2000 TiLux, and a wrecked BMW 2002 lying around outback. The wrecked BMW 2002 had a bent TISA steering wheel on it. I asked for the wheel, and Alan was kind enough to give it to me. That steering wheel restoration was my first BMW project, as I then had my Dad put it on his old car BMW 1800. Later on one of Alan's mechanics rolled the 2000 Tilux end over end--- Dad ended up buying all the running gear and interior. We put it into his old red 1800, which eventually became my first car six years later. Fast forward 40+ years, sentimental fool that I am I decided that the 1969 race car should be resurrected and have the snot driven out of it again. The car had languished, unraced for approximately 20 years. I didn't like it's third funky race car paint job in robins egg blue. I always wanted a Colorado car, so that was the paint scheme I settled on, and decided to do the Black rally hood Alpina style as well. The Girling and Alcon brakes were rebuilt, the vintage fuel cell was redone and the car got new bilsteins. It has a factory close ratio five speed gearbox, TISA three turn steering box, the original 45 Webers and a fresh hot 2 L motor with about a 326° cam, it's exciting just listening to it idle. The car will still need fresh belts and a final sorting, but it is very fast. The car looked so good as I started re-trimming it that I've decided to make it a Alpina tribute car. If I had a trust fund and could find an original Alpina car I guess I would buy one, But I don't. Unfortunately the car does not have pig cheek flares, but the early 70s schnitzer flairs instead. The car came with panasport and vintage BBS wheels. I put new Goodyear racing slicks on the BBS wheels. I have asked my friend and supreme BMW enthusiast Sam McNutt to help with graphics. I think I will limit it to the white hood graphics. The car has a large front spoiler on it from it days as a GT three racer. I may try to find a 1970s style spoiler better suited to that early time. I like the earlier unspoiled appearance of the nose. I put an old flat momo prototype wheel on it and will try to keep things in the spirit of the early 1970s. I still have to find some minor parts for the car, like a passenger side hood adjustment stop, correct small old roundel for the tail, and finish the Windows and some other bits. I plan on running the car at some track days, vintage Grand Prix events and on the Pennsylvania Hillclimb SCCA Race circuit. The car is a tribute not only to Alpina but largely to Alan Dukes and my Dad who nurtured my adolescent Love of now vintage BMWs. Unfortunately I now have to buy a trailer. Thanks Marshall for all your excellent trailer comments recently, the timing was perfect. Also I know at least Harv will like this car a lot. Keep on over steering, best regards Peter
  2. 14 points
  3. 13 points
    I wanted to jazz up the horn button on my Petri wheel.....
  4. 13 points
    Just a Sunday afternoon drive at Pebble Beach
  5. 13 points
    Hi Team, Its been a very happy and exciting weekend for me. This weekend I brought my body shell home. It has taken me 18 months of work to get the body all complete. It was a considerable amount of work for a novice like me but when I look back at the effort I put in, it feels worth it. It is a major milestone for me in my project. Part of me also breathes a sigh of relief knowing that I have managed to get this far. Its been a really steep learning curve for me learning how to weld and grind and deal with parts that don't fit and all sorts of other stuff. Anyway, I just want to thank each and everyone of you all who have helped me with my bodywork. I have been on this forum almost daily looking for parts and advice. I didn't do all the body work myself. There were several aspects that I was unsure of and so I had this old English Gentleman who has been doing this sort of work all his life, help me. I didn't do the final paint preparation and painting and rubbing down etc. That was all body shop. I still have a fair way to go as I put it all back together. Here are some pictures: Sealed all the areas that needed sealing Paint .
  6. 12 points
  7. 12 points
    Passed inspection yesterday, plates today and a 60 mile open road check out ride...nothing fell off that I know of.
  8. 12 points
    She's in the booth finally after 4 months of prep. Can't wait to see her complete with all the trim on. Hopefully their Bristol paint match is close, but won't know until she's complete and out in the sun.
  9. 11 points
    Was struggling Friday with having had my dad pass away a month ago. I needed to get away from everything for a bit so I loaded up my Mini Austrialian Shepard in the 02 and took a drive to a near by park for a 5 mile trail walk. Much better afterwards! Something about cruising the 02 and hanging with the dog in nature that does wonders for the soul. That and getting a bunch of thumbs ups and compliments at red lights. 😀
  10. 11 points
    Today was a good day, installed two rear side windows / rear side panels / rear seats / front seats / center console...
  11. 10 points
    This is when a simple fresh coat of paint turns into an over the top restoration. I’ll still drive it!
  12. 10 points
    Made it Agave again after being primer for to long
  13. 9 points
    Swapped out the 15x6 Panasports for the 13x6 Borranis and Pirelli CN36s today. Borrani set up is 1.25" taller and 1 pound lighter, despite being steel versus alloy. They ride great! Thanks Pehlivanov_tii for the very nice center caps, Alpina lugnuts from CoupeKing. Ed Z
  14. 9 points
    Watched it roll off the truck and into my garage
  15. 9 points
    Got my Booster / MC and pedal box in
  16. 9 points
    Because there seems to be a lot of discussion here about merit without a lot of discussion about how an LSD actually works or what these inserts do... Firstly, what does a clutch-type LSD do? In (very) brief, it uses ramped clutch packs to apply pressure to your carrier side gears (the ones splined to your output flanges and thusly bolted to your axles), effectively "clutching" your axles to drive at the same rate. The more your axles spin at different rates, the more the clutches engage to grip both axles together and force them to spin at the same rate... The more one wheel spins, the more power is applied to the non-spinning wheel. How do these inserts differ from a stock-style clutch plate LSD? Position of the clutches! A stock LSD carrier is built so that the clutch plates are outside the side gears, applying friction between outer sections of the lsd carrier... which is a big, heavy machined part with large friction surfaces that is engineered to take the force of the clutches pushing against them. The side gears/output flanges/axles are splined into these clutch packs so they have the clutch force applied to them while the load of the clutches binding is taken up by the carrier, as it is designed to do: Now, how do these LSD inserts work? Well, they put the clutch packs inside the side gears, applying the clutch force against the faces of the differential side gears. These gears have a much smaller friction contact surface, and are relatively small-and-not beefy, and not at all engineered for pressure to be applied to them in such a manner. More to the point, there is not really any "set of clutches" with the insert, so any "drag" is created between the face of the gear and the metal of the insert, thus scraping the two metal surfaces against each other. CAVEAT: This particular LSD manufacturer seems to have improved on this slightly, by adding a single "friction shim" between the metal insert halves and the gear face. Nonetheless, this is still not a real clutch pack set, designed for wear as the friction/metal surfaces scrub against each other... Your gears are not designed to do this, and you will wear away the "hardened" metal in the contact area (or the face of your side gears). Shear stress is also applied to the center pin connecting your spider gears (which is actually what applies real ramped pressure to the "clutch" faces against the side gears as the carrier loads, not those little springs). The center pin in an open differential is not designed for this load. To quote Jack's Transmissions, a reputable manufacturer of FWD racing transmissions: "It is common for people to want to install a cheap LSD in their FWD trans for better traction. You get what you pay for, the cheap insert type LSDs are terrible, don’t work, and have a very high failure rate. The way the inserts work is they jam two steel plates in between the front diff spider gears. The plates are spring loaded and they put pressure up against the gears. Good idea, but the problem with this is you have a metal plate pushing against metal gears. Over time the gears will dig into the plate which will leave metal shavings in your trans. When they wear in far enough either the gears break (if you’re lucky) or the front diff pin can wear and break away from the diff housing with no where to go but through your trans case." CONCLUSION: Well, we do have one major advantage over the FWD guys who have typically tried these "LSD inserts" thus far... Our differentials are isolated from the rest of the drivetrain! So when your differential inevitably ends up with metal shavings through the gears and/or broken side gear chunks and a center pin floating around in there, you'll only grenade a cheap open differential, not your whole FWD transaxle. The engineer can see where these inserts go wrong; they are creating stresses the open diff carrier was not designed to carry, and apply those stresses to parts never designed to be stressed in that manner. They do so with parts designed to create metal-on-metal wear in a system full of tight clearances and bearings that do not like extra metal bits floating around. BUT... the realist can see that OEM clutch pack LSD's are getting expensive as hell (I remember regularly buying good used LSD's for $100-$150), and open differentials are cheap as hell, and we have no definitive test of just how quickly these inserts will wear out diff parts and break. The FWD world is full of horror stories, but also full of reports of people beating on these things with decent results. SO... Just be knowledgeable about what you are getting into. We as humans do shit all the time that we know is bad for us, but acceptably so. If you choose to install a cheap insert rather than a "real" LSD, you probably know in the back of your mind that it is not a real proper solution, but you also are probably doing so because you are not planning on racing, autocrossing, or otherwise beating the crap out of your car with that diff insert. You are probably planning on installing it yourself, and thus you are only risking a small amount of money and your own time if/when the thing grenades. But if you are planning to buy one and pay somebody like me to install it... Well, for the money it would take to pay for your diff to be removed, disassembled, LSD bought and installed, and diff reinstalled (and then the whole process repeated again later when the differential insert breaks off some side gear teeth and it all implodes), well, you can probably afford to suck it up and get a "real" (OEM or Quaife) LSD. Sorry for the long rant. Don't let me talk you out of trying the insert (don't let me talk you out of a cheap eBay turbo either!), but please go into it understanding what the hell it is actually doing and what you are risking. In this case, maybe the risk is moderate enough (and self-contained enough) to be worthwhile. Or maybe it isn't. But it is important to discuss these things in more depth than just "hey look it's cheap on eBay".
  17. 8 points
    Met up with Barney this morning and cruised down to our Austin TX area BMW 2002 and Vintage BMW Cars & Coffee.
  18. 8 points
    Lord only knows I have plenty of other issues to deal with this car.....ordered this up before Christmas and decided to put off shipping during the holidays....DHL guy dropped off earlier today. Quite pleased, the devils in the details. I believe they had the BmW Roundel painted white or silver, not so sure about doing that, no expansion tank on the water pipe (they did away with that later as well and mounted one remotely (3.0CS)....1974 ---------> 2018.
  19. 8 points
    I pulled Hannah out of hibernation for a cruise around the neighborhood. We're having a very dry Tahoe winter and the roads are dry '71 Chamonix Lake is Donner Lake Temp is 64 F ( 30 degrees above normal )
  20. 8 points
    Installed the 712's. Now to try and fit the 662/762's in there as well!
  21. 8 points
    Yeaaaaa... these aren't cool at allll 😎 Ed Z
  22. 8 points
    got this photo last weekend driving down to deliver Ali Javidan's S14 powered '02 (after a bunch of new mods) to Berkeley cars and coffee event
  23. 7 points
    UPDATE: Hallelujah, the feds fit. For anyone in the future looking for information: Federal 595 205/60R/13 rear mounted on Borrani Alpina 13x6.5 rims worked with lots of lube. Charlie at Performance Plus in Long Beach, CA helped me out. Now for the fender rolling... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 7 points
    58 and Sunny in Austin today...After refresh, we put over 120 miles on car today...with no issues.
  25. 7 points
    Today I removed the E21 steering wheel and installed the proper '76 wheel, which is a little over an inch larger in diameter. It looks and feels much better. This is the E21 wheel, with a disassembled center pad from the '76 wheel. Originally, my car came to me with a wooden MoMo AlpinA wheel, which was two inches smaller than the stock one. The reason I mention this one is because I spent WAY too much time looking for its little steel signal cancellation ring, hoping to use it on the new wheel. Once I thought to measure each hub, I finally stopped looking for it; realizing that they'd be different sizes anyway. I didn't mess with the ring on the E21 wheel, since it has the horn ring built into it. (note the little brass 'jumper' to go ring to ring) Anyway, that led to making a ring for the new wheel. I made it out of two pieces of aluminum tubing, which were welded together after a little machining. The larger off cut/left over piece of the tab tube happened to work well for holding the tab in place for welding. I am happy this piece is hidden inside the column, because my weld was boogery. The good news is that it works as it should... and looks pretty good from this angle... after a little filing. The center pad is held in place by these three plastic posts, which only grip so well after forty years; so I put little pieces of vacuum tubing in them, which did snug'em up a little bit. One little bonus is that the manufacture date is 9/75, (for my 10/75 car)... as can be seen in the photo above. Thank you again, Teelinger.
  26. 7 points
    No where near the beauties posted earlier today but I after a few more adjustments, I finally got my interior mocked up, buttoned up the 3rd brake and puddle lights....oh ya hung some shinny bits too.....off to upholstery next week.
  27. 7 points
    Snapped this picture a couple hours ago.
  28. 7 points
    An illustration I did, many years ago, when working for a vintage parts company. Hope this clarifies some things. The "deep" grilles were used on all European cars until the change-over to plastic grilles. On European cars, the glass lens of the headlight fit "flush" with the hoop of the grille for a really clean look. Requires all-European headlight assemblies to achieve. Did it on my last 2002. (see photo)
  29. 7 points
    The Bower Baur ...
  30. 7 points
    Just a quick shot at the new ride height....
  31. 7 points
  32. 6 points
    New cn36 mounted on restored Ronal Kleeblatts 13x6 . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  33. 6 points
    We are an incredibly lucky group of enthusiasts --when I think about the many good friends many of you and I have made through the 2002 FAQ and --on the annual religious pilgrimage to the vintage. Around two years ago at the vintage I got to meet and hang out with Grice, and Chuck. Kindred spirits to be sure. Chuck was cool enough to invite me to visit a museum today, right in my own background which I did not even know existed. It was great admiring the machinery at the Simeon museum, and discussing BMWs with Chuck and buddy Tariq. The machinery there, near the airport in Philadelphia, was impressive. Many original patina'd Le mans winning cars etc. Drool worthy machinery. I've included some pictures. It snowed a lot on the way home, but it was worth it. A truly inspirational weekend trip, I will spend tomorrow in the garage tuning Weber carburetors on the project and celebrating the sound of a well tuned M 10 motor. Best regards, Peter P. S. Chuck admitted to a deep long-standing obsession with the Ford GT 40, and I confessed my almost fetish like Love for the Bizzarini GT and the D type Jaguar due to their sinuous, almost sensual biomorphic early era styling.. I'm sure everyone here will have a favorite, the Porsche 917 hippy car was impressive. The old Mercedes was designed completely by Ferdinand Porsche Senior and won LeMans. The Aston Martin was raced by Stirling Moss, Jim Clark, and other legends of from the time when people shifted their own gears. Hopefully these pictures Will inspire others to go out to the garage and twist some wrenches, or even polish /wax and otherwise bestow a little midwinter care in preparation for spring.
  34. 6 points
    ooo, I do feel a rant coming on.... Johnny, this isn't aimed AT you, it's for...well, it's for all of us. heh... I know the Porsche-cars still come from the factory that way, but since the early 70's, there's only been one real reason to drill or slot your rotors: improved wet braking performance. Like, "watersplash, brake hard into L2 R3 don't cut" The original reason for holes was that, in the 60's, organic pads gave off a significant amount of gas as they heated. This gas could float the brake pad off the rotor, and suddenly, 3/4 of the way into a braking zone, your pedal went hard and the car stopped slowing. It was terrifying. You either went faster through the corner than you knew was possible, or you wrecked. Now, racers already loved to drill 'lightening holes' into everything, http://kalecoauto.com/ so the solution proved to be to drill holes into the brake rotors, too. That gave the gas somewhere to go, and the problem was pretty much solved. However, 3 or 4 new problems emerged: 1: reduced thermal performance of the rotor. Yes, it had more surface area, but now, less mass. So while it cooled somewhat faster, it also got hotter in the process, and less evenly than without the holes, which ties into 2: reduced structural integrity. The holes create a whole bunch of places for cracks to form. Add the extra heat, and the rotors are MUCH weaker. 3; not much weight loss, given the problems of #1 and #2. Holes take most of the strength, while leaving 90% of the weight. (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=CSMITH) 4: pad wear. The holes tear at the pads. 5: Improved pads don't gas much at all, unless they're brand new. (everything after about the mid- '70's). 6: Improved casting processes make internally vented (vaned) rotors cost almost nothing more than solid rotors, don't weigh that much more, and are structurally far superior per gram. Slots help somewhat with 1 and 2, but #5 trumps all- you don't NEED the darned things. So, err, no, I guess if you want better brakes and have to change 'em anyway, I guess I'd recommend the '77 320 rotors, and 320 hubs to suit your struts, along with either 528 or Volvo calipers (again, depending on struts) Way more than you wanted to know, huh? t
  35. 6 points
    NP- And yes... I know. She’s not technically a ‘ti’... but close enough for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  36. 6 points
    All the welding and body work is done finally - now it's in the paint booth this week.
  37. 6 points
    Finally (more or less) finished with my 9 year project and actually get to drive her! She needs a bath and still a couple of gremlins to exorcise, but here are a few pix. For the observant: 1) The brick is an old habit to break from days when it had no brakes and I worked on my old sloping driveway 2) Went to tighten the driver mirror and needs more than that. The screw hole is "pulled" out so need to fix that and set screw is too short. From FAQ I will get a hex head longer set screw and I think I will rivet the bracket to the door! 3) Not leaking fluids.. I filled my washer reservoir and was aligning my sprayers. Randy And the original starting point.. granted a very complete, rust-free, but tired '75...
  38. 6 points
    I can’t buy a rust-free tii for $700 the way I used to. Please revert to the old setup.
  39. 6 points
    Fogged it up out driving in the rain. I really need to install that window regulator on the passenger door, so it will wind up all the way. One of these days. Before my outing, I backed the timing off by two degrees, putting the BB back at 2150 rpm. It had drifted to 2075, or so. I need to shorten the curve, since I now have 5* advance at idle. I'd like a little more, but no more at the top end. While out and about, I had the tires Andy gave me installed on the rims Patrick sold me. I now have rims with the proper offset ! One cool detail is that the manufacture date on them is 10-'75 which happens to be the same as my car, 10-21-'75. My old tires were junk and the e21 steelies are in fact stiffer to steer at slow speeds. They came on the car, so this was my first experience with the ET29 offset. I like it. The shimmy in the steering wheel is totally gone and I will now get some traction on the wet roads. For the test drive, I put it to work retrieving the remote controlled 18' awning I found for free on Craigslist. It will go over the new deck, on the left in this photo. (look at that deeelicious western red cedar rail cap. over three hundred years of growth rings in that 2x6... mixed into the tight knot pile at the lumber yard) It was a bit of a wrestling match to remove the awning and get it onto the car, but no damage done to the awning, the car, or myself. A Thule rack turns the 2002 into a very capable little car.
  40. 6 points
    Tonight I installed the crown jewel onto my 1600... embossed belt line trim.
  41. 6 points
    HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my triumph of exceptional automotive concept; the ever spectacular and practically indestructible BMW 1600. This superb German engineering was birthed on January 26, 1967. Birthday wishes: embossed hood belt line trim for front and rear Thank you!
  42. 6 points
    Wow...stunning! Similar to JP's Ed
  43. 6 points
    okay. that was a short answer. One of the things I enjoy is originality. I don't mind that things wear and show their age. I prefer that to having things glossed-over. That paint job looks like it was done in a hurry. Like the roundels were masked off, as opposed to taking two seconds to pop them off and there are a lot of parts that should not have been sprayed body color. I may be seeing it wrong, but that is the impression. the rockers look freshly 'shutzed' and yet I see blisters of rust. Black trunks and engine bays are not my thing, especially brush painted. I like the belt line trim, but it has been deleeeted. I don't want to nit pick it... I would just rather buy one that seems less ... prepped-for-sale. I should probably just mind my own business.
  44. 6 points
    A little update
  45. 6 points
    Hi, Please do not assume you don't have the expertise to tackle wiring! It is actually very logical and simple, particularly in cars this old. If you think you might be letting someone else work on it then why not take a crack at it yourself first? I would start by getting hold of the correct wiring diagram for your car. Then, look for anything that appears non-original. With these cars, owners may have modified, added, cut and spliced wiring all over the place. Case in point, my car had power door and trunk locks, a bluetooth radio with a microphone, volume control and who knows what else. I've attached a picture to give you an idea of the kinds of things to expect. Once you see add-on wiring, start removing it, all of it. Look for poor splicing, overloaded circuits, etc. It is quite likely that just cleaning things up will allow everything to function again. Do not be discouraged. In many ways, electrical work is the simplest. Electrons don't leak out of gaskets, no torque settings to mess up, etc. The tools to do it right are inexpensive. This Forum has lots of resources so let us help you through this.
  46. 5 points
    I'm sorry to hear about your dad passing away. I hope your dog and car help cushion missing him. May the great film of memories your dad made for you help smooth out your days ahead. Feel better soon. Car looks great btw. dlm ny country “What we have once enjoyed, we can never lose. All that we love deeply becomes a part of us. ” – Helen Keller
  47. 5 points
    Blends nicely with the background!
  48. 5 points
    That must be from a VW Golf 🏌️‍♂️
  49. 5 points
    This is Mark Parker from Parker Performance. My web site is down for now but it will be back up and running later this year. My mother has been sick and I have been very busy, between helping her and running another company i have not had any extra time. If you need a BMW panel just email me and i will see what I can do to help you out as long as you are not in a big hurry. I would also like to thank all of my great customers for the 15 + years. I truly enjoy working with all of you and like helping keep these great old cars on the road.
  50. 5 points