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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Couple of snaps of the blue 02 at sunset the other night.
  2. 11 points
    Finally got to take some photos of my seats which I restored over the summer. I got new OEM bottom pads and followed some of the tips and how-to's in Jim's blog on how to remove and replace vinyl and clean and restore the seat mechanicals - the first time I did it, the process felt like it was going to take forever and I was really nervous digging into the old seats, prying the pins out and carefully removing the vinyl. In the end, what took me a week I could probably do now in a day now that I know how to do it and how to put everything back together. I thought I would list the part numbers below for anyone who is also looking to do this ( I know these can be found elsewhere by searching, but always handy to have them posted multiple times) 52121824775 horsehair back rest section for early seat with headrest- same for both seats 52111824773 Drivers side horsehair seat pad (early seat) 52111824774 Passengers side horsehair seat pad (early seat) Also a tip if you are looking to do this whole process.... when you go to re-stretch the vinyl back over the new seat and pad. Get the vinyl material as hot as you can ( i.e. let the vinyl sit inside your car for a few hours on a summer day) then it will literally restretch over like butter and you also have less risk of ripping out the original holes for the upholstery pins (which I did once because I didnt warm it up) Also the heat helps with bending the pins back too and not breaking them.
  3. 10 points
    Hello 2002 FAQ Members whose posts/threads I have been quietly reading in the shadows for quite some time now... I am very excited to say as of Wednesday last week I joined y'all as a 2002 owner! The basic story: I have long wanted a 2002. I recently got my first well paying gig, and am finally able to make my dream a reality. I had been causally checking/researching available 2002's for sometime, and only in the last couple of months had the search become more serious. I was looking for a '76, that has work done on it, with some projects left to complete. Part of why I wanted the car was to work on it obviously, but I also wanted something I could drive right away. I inquired about a few listed online, but nothing seemed right, or to work out. Until I stumbled upon one on ebay. It was perfect. Mostly restored exterior and interior, with fun projects left to finish, and a 4 year old rebuilt top half engine, new shocks and struts etc.. It was perfect. Something I could drive immediately, but would have issues arise here and there, and stuff left to do to it. And boy did I have a lot of driving ahead of me if I was to purchase the car. Without going into too much detail, the sellers buy it now was listed well above what I was willing to pay, as it should have been, the car is in great shape and mostly restored. But the bidding was starting just under my budget. So, i contacted the seller. After a video walkthrough via facetime and lots of communication, I felt confident in my purchase. I waited on the auction to see what it would go for, in no way thinking I would possibly win it with my budget being just $500 over what the bidding started at. With 10 minutes left, not one person had placed a bid. So I placed my max bid. Another 10 minutes pass, the auction ends, and I was the sole bidder. HIZZAH! Initially, I was going to have the car shipped to me. It was near Newark, NJ, and I live in Austin Texas. It's an 1800 mile voyage. But, things worked out with work etc, and I got an extra week off. Found a super cheap plane ticket, and did the calculations for gas, and as it turned out I could save a whole bundle of money going on an awesome road trip I had always dreamed of. I got everything set up, got a single trip permit, bought the plane ticket, got a AAA membership and off I went! In person, the car was even better than i could have imagined. The engine purred, it drive and stopped straight and with ease... and it looked incredible. We made the deal and I started my journey. My first stop was Washington DC, I wanted to catch a game at Nationals park as I had never been before. Everything is going fine, until about 10 miles away from the ballpark, I hit the brakes, and feel something pop and give through the pedal... uh oh. Now the car is jolting and grabbing every time I apply the brakes. Still stopping, but not smoothly, and making clanking noises. Time to get creative with downshifting and use the brakes a little as possible until I find a parking lot for the game. During the game, I am sweating. I expected something might happen, the car being 41 years old and all, but not so quickly. On the first day of the journey? C'mon. I weigh my options, inspect things as best I could after the game, and decide that as long as I am still able to stop, I will keep driving a little past DC, stop at a hotel and come up with a game plan. Which is exactly what I did. Keeping up with the downshifting to nearly bring the car to a halt, and use the brakes as little as possible. I have an uncle that lives in Lexington, and he randomly contacted me to offer to stay at his place. Great! It's on the way, and I could get the car looked at while I don't have my tools with me. I make it ALLL the way to Lexington, perform the first oil change in the parking lot of an Auto Zone, and drive to my uncles house. It's too late to stop at Midas right now. The next morning, I wake up and get to Midas before it opens. Upon inspection, the mechanic tells me the rear brake shoes literally fell apart. His words "As far as I can tell it's been totally restored, except for these parts. If anything was going to break on you it was these." And they did. Not quite shattered, but pretty close. I couldn't believe I had made it nearly 800 miles on them, and didn't significantly damage anything. He was able to order the parts, and get them the next day. I wasn't upset it happened, more upset that I couldn't fix it. But oh well. It all worked out, and I made the rest of the journey home. The engine never even gave the slightest hiccup and ran like a champ at 70-75mph basically the entire way. Anyway, I will attach some pictures. Very glad to be joining the community.
  4. 9 points
  5. 9 points
    A short video of the BMW 2002 vintage race cars we've built/rebuilt; as much fun and a thrill it is to race a BMW 2002, it's also about the preparation, the people and the stories.
  6. 9 points
    I'm assuming everyone has seen this?
  7. 8 points
  8. 8 points
    Spent the better part of Friday with two good friends helping Ed Z prep his 67 BMW 2000CS Coupe for paint. Managed to squeeze in a quick install of a new thermostat for Stella. Oh, and the wheels Barney has decided on for his Turkis are spot on!
  9. 8 points
    Thought that I might share this picture of my beauty 1975 one of the Black series car made for Italian market with Alpina bits (A1 kit...)
  10. 8 points
    Andy came by for breakfast Saturday and then we spent the day in the shop, copying a four gauge pod that Ed was nice enough to send our way. It is a pretty precise fit both inside and out; so having one in hand was incredibly helpful. First we made the cardboard pattern (well, first we stripped the paint off of a metal panel from an old desk .041" thick, just like the original). Then folded it up for a test fit in the car, which was good, since I'd missed nipping a couple corners... Then cut it out in steel and scored the back, to ensure crisp bends, (since I do not have a sheet metal brake). Used a vise as a makeshift brake ; ) welded up the top seams and then filed them smooth I was happy with the way this little cutter worked and glad to finally have a slow turning drill press. (The hole saw was gnArly). and it fit! Andy painted it black today and sent the following photos. I can hardly wait to see the gauges installed : )
  11. 7 points
    I didnt do this 'today' per se... but I did finally complete it today.. Full engine restore and detail. Finally got the last piece (the small clear cover for the early fuse box) Photo of the engine when I bought it: And the finished engine bay today. Things I did: • Restored and powder coated the Purolator air cleaner - went with period correct color for the pre-71 model year. • Polished and cleaned all components • Cleaned and sanded all electrical connections and grounds (engine seems to run much smoother after doing so) • Re-painted the radiator (still on the hunt for another one, preferably NOS or powder coated and re-corded) • Removed distrubutor, housing, and all components. Cleaned and polished all the aluminum and made such the connections were cleaned and diaelectric greased • Powder coated valve color and polished BMW lettering • Checked and adjusted engine timing but want to get it professionally set in the set few weeks to make sure I did everything right. • Replaced failed oil plugs inside valve cover • Cleaned and re-bled the chain tensioner piston • Replaced fuel filter with period correct OEM version • Torqued all bolts on carb to spec to ensure tight fit • Replaced the 3 shock mounts on the air cleaner, my original ones were toast • Removed and fully cleaned the fusebox assembly and replaced fuses with new So many more things I want to do once my mechanical skills get better. Been reading and dissecting the workshop manual to learn more as I go. Next on the list: • Hunt down the covers that go on the back of the headlights - I assume these are NLA? anyone have some tips on where to get these? or anyone that has them? • Perform a valve adjustment but I may just take it somewhere for that, not sure if my skill level is up to par yet to know if I can do everything correctly. • Have my transmission professionally checked and fluid replaced • Have brakes professionally checked and bled • Figure out how to fix the tiny rust spots and paint chips in the engine bay - not sure the best approach. Car is incredibly rust free ( was a San Diego two owner car before me) • Replace window seals (front and back)
  12. 7 points
    Finally got painted, many steps taken to get to this point
  13. 7 points
    Had a few hours this morning to photograph this pretty lady....
  14. 6 points
    Without reading the many links supplied to address any contradiction, what I do (even though my jacking points are perfectly sound) is: front: trolley jack to the middle of the front subframe to lift then jack stands either under the frame rails or under the hefty bolts / tubes that hold the control arms onto the subframe. Rear: trolley jack under the diff to lift and then jack stands to the cross beam of the rear subframe. Never had any issue with this, place any wheels that are removed under the floor pan to provide some protection if something collapses and generally try and keep the jack in place along with the stands if I don't need access for the job at hand. This way I can stand the collapse of any one jack stand.
  15. 6 points
    My 68 912. Original paint. The ride height is better now. John
  16. 6 points
    76mm Straight Pipe with Warex Performance exhaust Xyz 30 way Adjustable Coilover Volvo Big Brake Conversion Front Fully Solid bushings3.91 Limited Slip 323 Rear Disk Conversion Custom Rollbar Time for body and engine
  17. 6 points
    Went on a leisurely Sunday drive today near Paine Field, WA - installed new door stops, so now I could finally take a photo with the doors open
  18. 6 points
    I have a roof rack on my '72 and I think it looks really cool but, it also makes a lot of wind noise during freeway driving. It doesn't help your mpg's either. Things to consider.
  19. 6 points
    So blessed and honored to have my 1600 BMW DERBY on Jay Leno's Garage YouTube! Thank you again for having us on your show! 😘 #Repost @jaylenosgarage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-PYhs2wYzI You can follow the BMW2002FAQ Forum thread here:
  20. 5 points
    1970 VW Karmann Ghia...with a 1776cc engine...lots of fun 1982 e21
  21. 5 points
    My other daily driver. In 2000 I puled the original 1200 cc and build a brand new balanced 1600 cc. This weekend I will R&R the front brake drums, been turned once but still out of round. My first impression after driving my '75 2002 was wow this is luxurious! I have low standards.
  22. 5 points
    1976 911S 2.7L in original color, bought new by my Dad from Annis Morrill Porsche Audi on Rt 9 in Natick MA...and yes, I'm not feeling the Ansa exhaust system either... COOP
  23. 5 points
    What goes well with an '02? All of these.
  24. 5 points
    Not a vintage car but a vintage 1950 BMW R51/2 Motorcycle. 😀
  25. 5 points
    911/912s are popular matches with the 2002, for sure. I kept it it within the family, but stayed vintage. 1967, 2000CS Ed Z
  26. 5 points
    When this showed up on CL I headed off for a two hour drive with a car trailer and a pocket full of cash. The add was posted by the owners son-in-law and what I found was that the term "Body is straight minus small rust spot" was code for "only one rust spot you can stick your fist through with several you could push your finger through minus whats hidden under body filler". As I brought up my disappointment in lack of truth in advertisement and my lack of interest in owning the car the owner started slashing the price until it became real obvious how bad he wanted to see me load it on the trailer and take it away. After accepting my $1800 offer I loaded it up. Has a Weber, 5spd, somebody's sway bars, vented front rotors, a box with new IE Stage 1 springs in the trunk. You have to pump the clutch but other than that I'm real happy with how it runs and drives. A sharp eye will notice my 72 that's up on jack stands in the back ground of the trailered shot.
  27. 5 points
    After quite some time I started again with the rust repair on the Touring The replacement panel of WN wasn't quite right so I made a few cuts to push the panel a bit more inside I first tacked in the new panel and then removed the middle piece of metal as it was quite pitted. Fully welded in. Ground down
  28. 5 points
    Heading out of town for a few weeks on some work projects so had one last evening drive before I go. Fingers crossed the suns still here when I get back - rainy winters come fast in the NW so this might be the last drive for awhile. Looking forward to fall/winter projects in the garage though. Next up is gear box and transmission fluid refresh when I get back
  29. 5 points
    I popped into work to quickly throw the doors on Piggy , long story but I'm back on the Pig Cheek car, all panels finally painted , just need to hang them now .
  30. 5 points
    As many of you know, the original ceramic fuses used in our car are a bit troublesome. The small contact areas mean that they are extremely sensitive to corrosion, and although the fuses are covered by a clear shield, they are still very exposed to the elements. I had enough of turning my fuses in the sockets and scrubbing at the contacts every other month. This, in addition to restoring the connections throughout the wiring harness, will greatly improve the electrical system in your car. You will notice brighter lights, more stable gauges, and for those of us running EFI, a more stable voltage in the system. Notes: This guide uses a fuse box from a 1976 USA car. Your fuse box may be slightly different, but the same process still applies. Be sure to disconnect and remove the battery before doing any electrical work in order to eliminate the possibility of component damage or personal injury. The first step is to remove the fuse box from the car. It is held in place with one sheet metal screw, and simply lifts out. Be careful to not damage any of the wires as you pull the fuse box from the cutout in the fender. You will likely only be able to pull the harness out a few inches; take note of where the connectors attach (they can be attached more than one way, but only one way will work), and be sure not to miss any of the individual connectors. If the connectors are difficult, you may pry on them GENTLY using a flat head screwdriver. Make sure they come off evenly so that they do not bind. With the box out and on your workbench, take a picture to note which way the color coded insert goes. Remove the card. Be careful; it is very delicate and tears easily. While it is out it is not a bad idea to laminate the card in order to insulate it and protect it. I don't know of anyone making replicas, but one of us should. In addition, it would be a good idea to determine which years and models had which cards; there is some variation. Remove the fuses, and take a picture of the contacts before doing the work so you can see just how big the difference is later. Begin by giving the fuse box a good cleaning with some mild soap and water, just to get out any dirt or grime that is present. Don't bother trying to clean the contacts now; you'll be wasting your time. Sneak yourself a bowl from the kitchen, and steal the vinegar out of the pantry. Any kind of vinegar will do, but a white vinegar (I used apple cider vinegar) will be a wise choice. While you are in there, grab the baking soda and salt as well. Begin by placing the fuse box in the bowl, sprinkling some salt on it, and pouring in the vinegar. Stir it up, and shake the fusebox around in the mixture for a few minutes. The acidity of the vinegar and the abrasiveness of the salt will quickly work together to remove the oxidation from the surface. Let it sit for a while in the salt-vinegar mixture while you prepare a baking soda neutralization bath for later on. Mix about a table spoon of baking soda and a cup of water. The concentration of the solution is not crucial. Once the neutralization bath is made, we can go back to the fuse box. After sitting for this long, much of the oxidation has already been removed. We can do better though. Grab a chunk of steel wool, and start scrubbing. Halfway through, the improvement is obvious. With the scrubbing done, it is time to rinse the fuse box multiple times in water (deionized is preferred, although tap water will do just fine), rinsed in the baking soda bath, and then given one final rinse using water to remove the baking soda. Thoroughly dry the part using compressed air (or set out to dry if you don't have compressed air available). Now it is almost time for re-assembly. Grab your di-electric grease. If you really don't have any available, vaseline will do, but you are really better off using the grease as it is far more durable. Get your fuses. ONLY USE OEM GERMAN FUSES. Mercedes has fuses available for a fair rate; I grabbed a bag on ebay for cheap. They are the proper, high-quality ceramic units. Not only will they operate far better than anything else, they will outlast other fuses and look correct in the fuse box. Now take your nice, new fuses and throw them in the acid (vinegar) to remove any oxidation that has collected on them while in storage. You WILL notice a difference. Remember to neutralize them afterwards! This looks better. Tighten down the prongs so that they hold the fuses VERY snug, but do NOT deform the tangs. Bend the curved section of the tang, do NOT bend the whole tang as you will weaken the base. Make sure they all look about even, and coat either end with grease. Insert the correct fuses into the correct slots, being absolutely certain that the bases are sitting properly in the holes at the bottom. When the fuses are all installed, smear some more grease across the bridge in the fuse in order to coat the exposed copper section. Reinstall the card on the back, and cover the nice, clean connectors with more di-electric grease. Go back to your car and using a flat head screwdriver (as shown) deform each connector in the socket SLIGHTLY. Too much will damage the connector and prevent the male prong from entering easily. Only do enough to give the connector a fresh surface to bite onto. Re-install everything and pop on a new cover while you are at it and enjoy your improved electrical system. For that finishing touch, find some compressible water-proof foam to replace the seal between the fuse box and the shell that has completely rotted away. This will greatly improve the life of the fuses and the performance of the electrical system. Short of converting to blade fuses, this is the best thing you can do. PRO-TIP: If you can soak the connectors in the vinegar bath (and then neutralize using the baking soda solution), even without scrubbing, you will improve the connection. This is a good way to quickly clean many connections in the car.
  31. 5 points
    Big shout out to Barney and Greg for all the help on Day 1 disassembly of the '67 2000CS... thanks so very much for your help! I'm proud to call y'all friends, for sure. More info on the NK Discussion pages Ed Z
  32. 5 points
    I raced 4 of my cars at the 2017 Rolex Reunion in Monterey. The 315 ran in Group 2A, the CSL in Group 4A, my Chevron B16 (with an M10) in Group 7A, and my NK 1800Ti in Group 3B. All 4 ran well, with only a minor diff issue in the CSL. Hope you enjoy, and leave me a 'Like' or a comment. Here's the link:
  33. 5 points
    Tom, all I can think of is this: -Dave
  34. 5 points
    new pirelli tires and polished rims for turkis 73...
  35. 5 points
    For those who might have missed it, we have a map https://www.bmw2002faq.com/membermap/ We even have some cool categories that need some additions! BMW Repair Shops and Race Tracks. Please, add things as you see fit. Steve K.
  36. 5 points
    Heck of a turnout for an Austin, Texas BMW 2002 impromptu lunch meet up. Looks like I'll be setting up a monthly lunch meet up to go along with our monthly ATX 02 and Classic BMW C&C. Shout out to Rudy for finding a way out of the Houston area and making the 2.5 hour drive just to join us for lunch.
  37. 5 points
  38. 5 points
    starting to put it back together, had to get something shining mounted.
  39. 5 points
    Here's mine - almost "done"
  40. 5 points
    Freshening up an old topic here, to shamelessly plug a product: I would like to introduce a factory looking & fitting part that I recently developed and am now producing. It is a direct replacement for the entire stock center section, accommodates two standard sized beverage containers and does not interfere with any of the controls or driver comfort. Uses existing hardware and is designed to function as stock, with flange to install factory or aftermarket shift boot. Available at www.kooglewerks.com
  41. 5 points
    My turn! I just got my original Recaro Rallye II's back from the upholsterer: Houndstooth Centers and Navy Blue Alcantara bolsters.
  42. 4 points
  43. 4 points
    Paul, The trick is the adaptor from the crank to the dyno. If you want to bring it down here I have a engine dyno shop I use all the time and I have all of the adaptors to hook it up. It is more expensive (I think they are about $600/day now) and I am sure we can get it mounted, dyno'ed and off in 1 day easy. Byron
  44. 4 points
    And speaking of rust, here's what I did with the rest of my weekend
  45. 4 points
  46. 4 points
    Just some waxing and polishing (for a change). Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  47. 4 points
    I remember being on a first date in my early teens in a beat up old Saab 900. It was a hot day and we had driven a long way from home. The cooling system was sketchy at best and the needle crept up as we were crawling in traffic so I responded to this by putting the heater on full blast. Saab heaters are pretty good for the cold Swedish winters, she responded by not talking to me as we sweated away with open windows and heat pouring out of the vents. Awkward trip home and suffice to say that we didn't have a second date.
  48. 4 points
    Enjoy the Beauty Shot thread and hate to see it get buried so I thought I'd post a few pictures of my 76.
  49. 4 points
    Clearly, it isn't just vacuum that sucks! I am not "advanced" enough for this. I should refrain from being a "distributor" of incorrect information. All this has my head "spinning". Okay, okay, enough bad puns. Thanks for setting me straight. You make good "points" - I just can't stop...
  50. 4 points
    As part of treating tome minor bodywork rust, I patched the inner rear arches yesterday. I was happy to find that the box sections behind were in great condition. i then temporarily filled and primed them.