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  1. 15 likes
    I picked up my reupholstered seats. I used BMW cushions and GAHH for the vinyl.
  2. 8 likes
    Hi, I’m not sure that my ti will ever see the shores of the U.S., but I thought I’d share my experiences from afar, especially for the 15th anniversary. Before that though, I should introduce myself. My name is Andrew, I grew up in New York and a few years after college I moved to Europe. I never owned an 02 in the US, not for want of trying but in New York it was already tough to find a good one in the late 1980’s when I started looking. My mechanic of choice “Werner”, a quite large German with a heavy accent, was never satisfied with the examples I found. Either beat engines and/or loud diffs (codeword “beater” for him) accompanied by crumbling arches and rockerpanels which he always gave a big “nein” to. At the time they were still thoroughly “used” cars, only the best were worth buying in his opinion, which were present but outside my price class. The yard behind his workshop reflected this “natural selection” process. I did eventually find a eurospec 1979 E12 528i instead (which he approved), with the full sport package, which I regret selling to this day. I look in FAQ once every few weeks, find it great that there is such an active community in the US. I find the content and the people really accessible. I used to be a member of the German 02 club, there are lots of nice people there as well but there are also quite a few who live in a different communication age…they want to be a part of a virtual community but only seem to want to meet the same friends. Guests or newcomers have a tough time, especially if they are foolish enough to use Google translator (which is always a mistake). Having patience with newbies is good, even if it means pointing them to the search function again and again…but back to the story. Heidi was commissioned on February 8, 1971, so she’s a fairly late ti and has a lot of the faults that a ti would have, which narrowly missed becoming a racer. When I bought herit, she sported Nurburgring and Goodyear stickers on the back, was sitting on e21 rims with Pirelli cn36s on a lowered suspension, square taillights and had safety harnesses installed but no seats…and was also missing a few panels, had been partly repainted and had no drivetrain installed. There were boxes and boxes of loose and crated parts which I slowly got acquainted with, a bit of a puzzle. But she carried all the little things that identify a ti as a ti, so I bought it in a rush. I bought her in 2000, she was last registered in 1983 and the registry slips dated back to 1978 when the original “brief” (title document) had no more empty spaces for entries and a new one was issued erasing its past. The last owner died in a motorcycle accident in 2000 and according to the widow the car was bought new by his father in Darmstadt in 1971. So what I bought was essentially a car with 127,000km (most likely) on the clock, that was registered for road use only for the first 7 years of its life. The Certificate from BMW confirms the vin number as a ti and that it was Colorado from the start, delivered to a BMW dealer near Darmstadt but no other information was available from BMW. It took me 6 years to get her back on the road, for a number of reasons. The running gag in the family was that we were holding a race against time: my daughter vs. the restauration of the BMW. Would my daughter, born in 2000, a few weeks before I bought the BMW, be riding a bike before the BMW was finished… or not. Well, she was an early biker. Now she occasionally does navigator duty and has a learner’s permit. As I mentioned, when I bought her, there wasn’t much “right” other than it was mostly still original and rust-free. There are still a few things wrong with it like the snorkel (aaah)…yes, in 2002 when I was building, I did not pay much attention to this fact, because I was so excited to have a good nose, doors and floors. The nose was straight, so the nose panels stayed but it would be easy enough to “fix” the snorkelat some point. Rear panels with round cutouts had just appeared back on the market, so the round panel replaced a recently installed square panel. I bought in the package a “rebuilt” engine in a crate with ti pistons but topped with an E10 head and Weber 45DCOE9 carbs. When I turned it by hand (not aware of the mismatch), imagine my disappointment…. I sourced a used 1970 casting 121 head from ebay, with a 300 degree BMW cam with uprated valvesprings. With the car came a Getrag gearbox from an E28 528e, most of a turbo suspension setup, a lightened flywheel but no clutch, a variety of driveshafts and other pieces… Seems like the owner had parted 3 or 4 ti’s in the course of time and this was the only one to survive. Along with the other parts, I had four sets of ti intake manifolds, boxes of crusty solex phh’s, four manual advance distributors and water bypass tubes… I obtained a set of ’73 seats from a nearby collector (who had a silver 1970 ti, which he sold for peanuts in 2005) and I was nearly off. A 5 speed was sourced from an E21 318i from a local salvage yard, several broken diffs were fixed to produce one limited slip diff and one spare open diff. I put HD springs in with the sport F&S shocks in the front and adjustable Koni shocks in the rear. It has one dot spacers in the back and sits well on the 185/70 13 tires. Ideal for ripping along on dirt roads, or doing a slalom, not so great for the track. Heidi still carries original chrome, trim, carpets, headliner, glass, Radio/speakers, instruments, folding keys, glovebox, toolset and “patina”. There is more patina on some parts than others, but very usable and seems to hang together as a package. My philosophy has been to modify it sensibly (ok, as fast as it goes without completely incurring ridiculous expense), but making only changes that can be simply reversed (no “cheeks”). Might have to think about a full restauration for her 50th birthday. The painting I did myself, which I will never do again even if isocyanate paints are no longer available. It was only a 90% result, not show quality, but good enough for my purposes. I did also paint the engine bay, trunk and body but the rest did not require refinishing. The end result isn’t really worthy of the car, but since it was never intended to be perfect…(see below) I can live with the result. It was first registered again in 2006, going through the German TUV with no issues and getting the historic vehicle certification (despite the many mechanical mods) at the first go. I told them that I had followed the Alpina A2 spec, provided them the mods (which were all true) and they merrily typed them into the papers along with the cosmic rims. I built the car to participate in regularity rallies and where I currently live in Latvia, much of the stages are on gravel with relatively high average speeds and contain closed city stages for additional excitement. The club runs hillclimbs once a year, as well as two track days, so my ti gets occasional but heavy use. It has a few concessions to promote performance and longevity, a 123 programmable distributor, oil cooler, electrical fuel pump, a few extra lights up front to keep the nose down and a tripcounter. It has probably covered six thousand miles all told in the last 16 years, so the toyos dried out (horrible tire anyway) and the current Yokohamas are soft enough to get worn down before their expiration date. To run on gravel I have a set of narrower Michelin XAS tires. I find it amazing though, how nicely the XAS’s behave, how controlled and forgiving they are on asphalt. Though in terms of absolute grip the 185/70 13 Yokohama tires are much better. I can imagine what lower profile tires could do on the track but I’m not keen on modifying the fenders to make them fit. Enough chatter, I hope that the pictures are pretty ok as posted. The sticklers for originality can assess what is not quite original even today. The best non-original aspect is the instrument cluster, I did a double-take the first time I saw it, but it has grown on me and is probably one of the few modifications that would be hard to reverse. Not my doing, but I like it. I added a few “action” shots, since stance can also be dynamic. I know what mine was like on shortened springs and I suspect that a few of the vehicles in the stance thread don’t drive as well as they look, but proper articulation on washboard is probably not a criteria for their suspension choices. Mine probably is not so lean and mean, but it does really well on back roads that are not as smooth as a mirror. Enjoy the pictures and thanks Steve for making it possible… Andrew P.S. A few pictures and for the curious, yes it has 6 fuses, no it didn't have seatbelt mounts in the back, yes it has brackets for the air filter...and yes I still use the original folding keys. In 2003 "in-process" 2004 or so as finished but not registered... 2 Just before getting a German registration, wearing E21 rims that she came with and impractical lowered springs....and lovely low mileage but 20 year old Pirelli CN36's My interesting instrument cluster, that someone spent a lot of time covering in leather grain and hand painting the dials...only much later did I realize that I was supposed to have shiny dials and bezel, difficult to fix now but its kind of cool. Yes, the seats are later Recaros, a compromise to comfort. Thanks to FAQ, I have a clock that works, but its not installed yet... A few beauty shots of sorts...at least this is how she looks in 2016 And a few action shots...doing what we do together...regularity rally on narrow tires Hillclimb (ok, its a valley actually that you go down and then up out of). Oil pan protector came with the puzzle of parts, but really works. Track day...yes, 185/70 tires do fill the arches and do a really good job despite what some might think.
  3. 8 likes
    I traded my 1600 and some cash for a 993 C2S This car goes to 11.
  4. 7 likes
    I've searched around and haven't seen a thread dedicated to the initial steps of resurrecting a 2002 that has been sitting/abandoned/undriven/unstarted for many years. (if there is such a thread, please link it here). There are the 100 tips which are helpful, but somewhat dated https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/41562-light-reading-a-few-tips-myths-lies-truths-and-other-c/#comment-668762 For years we have seen new members appear with a car they've just bought and no experience on how to or where to start. Most times, these threads receive lots of good advice on how the newbie should proceed, but then those threads become lost and we have to start the whole conversation over again. There are basic steps a new owner can proceed with to insure his new project doesn't bog down and I'd like to see a thread that catalogs those tips; starting here. Please feel free to add comments and direct tips to previous threads or, of course, the Articles Section for specific procedures https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/ As an example, we have a few new members with early cars in various states of condition and the questions usually start with " what should I do first?" I usually suggest the following. Prep yourself with the basics: Learn how to search FAQ ( this Article is old, but seriously folks, figure it out) https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/faq-use/how-to-use-search-r171/ Buy a Haynes Manual and spend an evening reading through it so you'll know where to find the info when you need it Equip your toolbox with the best tools you can afford (proper screwdrivers, metric wrenches, flashlight, telescoping magnet, feeler gauge set, etc...) Use jack stands every time you are under the car Have patience and a sense of humor You just pushed it off the trailer into the driveway and the wife is "thrilled"...now what? Clean it up...nothing kills motivation faster than a car that looks like crap Vacuum the inside of all the mouse droppings, dirt, leaves, pine needles, blunts, stems and seeds... Wipe down all the vinyl and glass Clean the engine bay...this may take several days of concerted effort, old greasy buildup won't surrender easily, but a clean engine is sooooo much more pleasant to work on Clean the outside...air up the tires, wash and wax it. Washing by hand will allow you to see loose trim, missing screws, cracked window seals, etc... Step back and envision what it will look like when you are done. Take stock of what is on the car and what is missing. Make a list and prioritize the project's needs. (should you buy a $500 Petri wheel when the engine doesn't even run yet?) Take good pictures of the engine bay, suspension, whatever it is you are working on. It can save you from an "oh crap" moment when you're not sure how something goes back together Compartmentalize your goals to keep from being overwhelmed and know that these projects take time to complete. Expect delays when parts you need are not available locally and it'll be a week before your web order will arrive. Spend the downtime addressing some other part of the project; but always accomplish something; even if it's simply zip-tieing loose wires under the dash; or maybe you can paint those rusty steel wheels? For a car that hasn't run in a while.... fix the brakes and steering before you go anywhere Jack it up as high as you can and place it on jackstands Before removing the wheels, check for excessive play in the wheel bearings Remove wheels and inspect every brake component. Bleed the brake/clutch hydraulics. Any wheel that doesn't bleed easily indicates that a soft line or wheel cylinder, or caliper needs replacing. If it leaks, repair/replace Learn how to adjust the rear brakes and emergency brake...so simple and so important (Haynes manual has a good instructions as does the FAQ) Repack any bearing that displayed excessive free-play (just do them all for peace of mind) Inspect all suspension components for worn/cracked rubber bushings. If it's loose, plan to replace it Old, cracked tires? replace them 13" Kuhmos are what.. $50/each? Is the exhaust rotted out? Is it hanging loose? Always change all fluids unless the PO has good records that he'd recently done it, but double check. Any oil or lube that you drain that is milky or strangely discolored, may indicate water contamination... Not good in any circumstance Here's a good lube link https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/99316-lube-specifications/#comment-276758 Engine oil and filter - you can't go wrong with 20w-50 with ZDDP additive ( I like Valvoline Racing oil) and a Mann or Mahle filter Transmission fluid - drain it and replace with Redline MTL, or 85/140 mixed 2:1 with ATF, or straight 80W dino-lube Differential fluid - drain it and replace with Redline 75/90, or 85/140 dino-lube Fuel system If the car has been been sitting a very long time, unplug and remove the sending unit, drain the gas tank, and inspect the inside of the tank for rust Change the fuel filter Check fuel line hose clamps and replace any rubber fuel line that shows any sign of cracking, or leaking. Not entirely necessary, but you can remove the top of the carb to check for gunk/debris in the fuel bowl which may give an indication of future running problems You could also remove the idle jets and blast them with carb cleaner for good measure Does the car have a mechanical fuel pump or an electric fuel pump? Inspect that it is functioning properly. Engine Remove the valve cover and inspect the valve train, looking for broken valve springs, rockers, etc... Is there a lot of sludgey-oil build up? If you can turn the engine over, perform a valve adjustment https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/valve-adjustment-for-bmw-m10-motor-r27/ It has been recommended for engines that have sat for many years that you pull the plugs and give each cylinder a shot of lubrication... some say diesel fuel, or ATF, or engine oil. You are basically trying to lube the cylinder walls prior to turning the old engine over. Use the FAQ search to find out what you think works best for you. With the valve cover off, set the engine to TDC per the mark on the camshaft and paint your timing marks on the lower pulley and/or the flywheel (check the Haynes manual for these locations.) You WILL thank yourself later when you are setting the timing with a timing light. With the engine at TDC also confirm the static timing of the distributor.( Again the Haynes manual has description and pictures in the Ignition Section). This will insure that the initial startup goes well. Ignition Replace plugs with new ones... NGK BP6ES seems to be the crowd favorite, or Bosch W7DC. Gapped accordingly... 0.025 with points, or about 0.035 with electronic ignitor like Petronix Inspect distributor cap and rotor for cracks. If you have points and condensor, install new and gap/dwell accordingly. Check distributor shaft for excessive axial play (up and down)...worn shaft will make for erratic timing and poor running...something to think about once you are tuning the car up. Check plug and coil wires. Replace them if cracked Inspect wiring at coil. All connections should have tight, crimped, spade connections. If anything has loose, electric tape...inspect it and replace with proper connections. This goes for ALL wiring. Any wiring you find with wads of electric tape should be suspect. Start the engine With a fresh battery (with good cables and clean connections), fresh gasoline, fresh oil and fresh ignition components... turn the key and crank the engine. If you've done all the prep work, hopefully it fires up! if not, you can start troubleshooting more easily now that you know you have replaced, set tolerances, and checked each item ahead of time. Is there spark? Is there fuel? Cooling system Drain radiator and block, remember to open the heater valve (turn the dash lever to hot). The block drain is located on the passenger side of the block, behind the exhaust manifold, below the #3 and #4 exhaust ports... if I remember it's a 17mm bolt. If you remove the bolt and nothing comes out, it's blocked by old, crystalized coolant. Poke it with a stubby screwdriver or wire to clean it out. You must drain the block, though. Refill cooling system with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water. The 2002 is notorious for developing an air bubble in the cooling system after draining the system. When refilling, elevate the front of the car, leave the radiator cap loose and squeeze the upper radiator hose to insure there are no air bubbles. All this while the engine is running. This is certainly not a comprehensive list but I hope it helps those looking for a way to get started on their new projects. There are so many topics and tips... I hope others will chime in with their favorites; like cleaning all the grounds and light bulb connections because the blinkers don't work. Have a great weekend, Ed Z Cedar Park, Texas
  5. 7 likes
    Here is a short video of the exterior of Derby and some pics after I cleaned him up a little... I've noticed in pictures that the color is different from angles and lighting.... I absolutely am in LOVE with this car... it's so pure, unadulterated, simplistic beauty that makes it so attractive. Such a different caliber from a car like Tesoro... but both very special to me. More pics coming soon! Enjoy! DRBY.MOV <<<<<< EXTERIOR of Derby
  6. 7 likes
    Thought I'd share some pictures of our January ATX 2002 C&C. We had a good turnout with a total of 18 making the event and 16 being 2002s. We started having the C&C last January and have had successful events each month. Its always difficult to get all of our local 02rs to attend as we all have so much going on. We could easily push 30 02s if the stars ever line up just right. Just about every month we have a new 02 show up. How neat is that! Rudy from down in the Houston area brought 6 of his 02s up this month. Got to love that! A big thanks to Terry Sayther for helping me spread the word each month. Also big thanks to Rudy for bring some of his 02s up this month. Already looking forward to our February C&C. I'll be getting out this coming Saturday to see if I can identify a new spot to hold our event as we're growing in numbers.
  7. 7 likes
    out of parts and pieces from four or five I hope to make one...reminding me of the johnny cash song, I got it one piece at time...
  8. 6 likes
    I'll begin by clarifying that although I am a professional, and know my way around a 2002, I'm not in the business of defending repair shops. I did mine under (believe it or not) *ideal* circumstances, in that the timing cover and exhaust fasteners had been replaced / removed only a few months earlier by myself, while dealing with leaks and other issues during the early stages of my ownership of the car....so I had no struggles with frozen/rotted parts that were stationary for 44+ years. I've worked on 10 year old cars, which needed ABS wheel speed sensors replaced....under ideal conditions, that's a 15 minute job.... but I've had some that required HOURS of heating / grinding / hub disassembly / clean up time, to remove on older vehicles. Perhaps the shop encountered some real headaches on your 40+ year old car. Perhaps they were simply not familiar with easier methods for removing the head / manifold. Anything is possible. Old cars can make you really fight. We're not talking about common vehicles that the average technician sees on a regular basis (unless they're BMW 2002 specialists) while they're busy making easier / better money, disassembling Hondas, Audis, and VWs all day long for Mr and Mrs Soccerpants. Taking any older BMW to a specialist may cost more in the initial investment, but you're paying for experience and knowledge that the average mechanic simply doesn't have.
  9. 6 likes
    Freebies man - just pay shipping. I'll throw in the solex as well.
  10. 5 likes
    Glass bead blasted a lot of hardware and parts of the 02 touring over the weekend. When I blasted a couple of parts I laid everything out on an A3 paper and wrote down which parts, how many, some other notes and finally took a picture of it all. I also got a bow full of all new washers, nuts and bolts a while ago which I'm also taking to the plater to get it yellow plated. All the blasted parts together 2 of the papers I made:
  11. 5 likes
    Looking forward to seeing you again Jack Lots of interesting stories and information!!! Safe journey from SoCal Ray will have his muscle with him again this year More Andrew spotting this year I hope Keith will be working on Tiis and other cars for sure Chris and Mike will be discussing the minutiae of 02s Dave will be there with the car that has been in his family a long long time Meg and Sabine will be there too Bo and Chris will be trying to figure out how to get more door prizes for everyone As will many many other 02 fanatics Make your reservations The place is filling up PS I'll be there with my Moon Pies Randy always buys me a box
  12. 5 likes
    Finished up welding the first patch panel of the passenger floor. When I got the car sandblasted there was still some rust hiding between the flange of the passenger floor pan and the inner sill Cut a piece out of the floor, I decided to make a new flange because the floor itself is still good. I then removed the flange, bended a new one and tacked it in place I also made sure that it would still fit I then welded on the little tabs that hold the fuel line in place Old vs new flange Tacked in Ground smooth and covered in zinc primer
  13. 5 likes
    best audio clip would have been when a WRX pulled up along side me while meandering down a nice road. passenger leaned out the window with big grin and asked "what year?". i said "its a 75", then dropped a gear and dropped the hammer..... the looks on their faces were priceless. big thumbs up all around and friendly wave goodbye as i turned off. geez i love this car!
  14. 5 likes
    I predict it won't reach reserve, and then we will see it on BAT ultimately sell for an absurd and irrational amount of money.
  15. 5 likes
    I'll keep my eyes open. If I catch the guy who steals 02s, consider him dead.
  16. 5 likes
    Thanks for bringing us back, evil! Now don't get me wrong, this whole thing was very interesting for me.... Better than watching football or Dancing with the Stars. But, alas, like all good things, this too has run it's course. Grills are NLA
  17. 5 likes
    1967 1600 1527301 ALPINA pig cheek car . Was an uphill racer in 69-70. I have the original motor that was used when it was raced. Now it has a stroker 2.2 liter in it with dual Weber's and all the original Alpina bits. Granada with black interior. 1967 1600ti VIN 1582369 ALPINA pig cheek racer going through restoration right now that is Polaris with black interior. Italian delivery car and raced in the early 70s in Europe then imported and raced here in the early 80s. 1967 1600 VIN 1530514 all bone stock original with roof reliant. This car is Florida with Braun interior. original 41000 miles 1968 2002 VIN 1662224 modified in the period with Alpina bits. I just went through it mechanically. Granada with black interior.
  18. 5 likes
    Here's how they look after zinc plating. -KB
  19. 4 likes
    I believe this is the Scottish Malts Rally Worthy of a repost. -M
  20. 4 likes
    Another solid attendance for our Austin, Texas 2002 and Classic BMW Cars and coffee last Saturday morning. I was enjoying all the camaraderie I didn't take as many pictures as usual. Below are a few for you to enjoy! Including a couple of my 02 that I took tooling around downtown Austin before the C&C. Including a link to an Instagram post by gruppechat. Its a sped of video that might make your head spin. Enjoyed having them come out and covering our C&C and look forward to having them attending future events. Greg Resa
  21. 4 likes
    I have been tasked with offering the fine folks here the best deals possible. We will be dedicating a full time spot here to giving special deals to BMW 2002 FAQ members on all of the parts we carry. From over 350,000 OE BMW parts to over 5 million aftermarket maintenance and performance parts, if it is still available, we have what you need. I will post up any promotions here and members are welcome to send me any parts you're after. I will always do my best to match and beat anyone's prices. Simply post up what parts you're looking for and I'll get you our best pricing. All prices will be delivered via PM to avoid any MAP issues with our distributors. Remember, not only do we have access to the complete OE BMW catalog, we have access to MILLIONS of aftermarket parts. With our distributor network, we can ship most maintenance items same day. Most OE BMW parts take 3-5 days to process then ship out to you. Have another car that isn't an 02 or even a BMW? We also have maintenance and performance parts for all other makes and models. Just let me know what you're after and I'll take care of you!
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    So, after three months at the shop, my car is coming home..... I've been relegated to driving a Ford Escape for the duration and I have to say that I really missed my 02. It started with the differential replacement. I can't thanks Ryan ( danco_ ) enough for the help with getting me a good part at a great price. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the issue. Our next replacement was the driveline. There's a great shop here in San Diego called "Oceanside Driveline" that took care of it. They are supposedly the only ones in the county that have the tools to do the job for this particular setup. They put in a brand new driveline, which was awesome. The center bearing needed to be replaced BADLY. But, it still didn't solve the problem, the grinding remained.... Next, we tackled the cv joints, I replaced both on the left side, then we replaced both on the right side. Finally, after no where else to go and figuring it could be nothing else, we rebuilt the transmission. And that was the issue.... broken pieces, completely worn out clutch packs, etc.... Since it was an automatic, parts were a little difficult to come by. We ended up getting a donor transmissions, for parts we couldn't easily purchase, from a place down south in El Cajon. Fortunately there, the donor was pristine inside. After all of this, I have to say that my mechanic probably doesn't want to see the car for a long while but, if he did the work in the same spirit of quality and professionalism that he always does, he won't have to. I've put more into this repair then I paid for the car originally but, I wouldn't have it any other way. This is my daily driver and nobody in my circle of friends and family gets it, except my dad. (who has just finished rebuilding a late 50's sprint car). Could I have taken the money I put into this and put it down on a new car? Sure, but why would I want to do that. Like the Dodge commercial said "If you know, you know". Now, since it's a '76, it's off to Scotty at the smog shop. He'll get it to pass but, it will take a couple of tries. Hopefully luck will be on my side and it goes smoothly......
  24. 4 likes
    Zip'n down the highway behind Ed Z. after this morning's Austin, Texas BMW 2002 C&C.
  25. 4 likes
    Made some good headway today and got the front suspension out. Rear suspension/suffrage is next. Then new stuff can go in. Made a sort of real life exploded view of the front suspension pieces and took a pic for those interested.
  26. 4 likes
    I've used the whole afternoon trying to restore my vent window mechanism. As you all know, the unit is sealed and generally replaced with an alternative working mechanism when it stops working or become harder and harder to turn. I had 6 pairs of these in my spare part stash so decided to pickup the worst and try to refurbish it. This method worked for me and made the mechanism movement feel like new. You're welcome to follow this process if you decide to refurbish your window vent mechanism. Please ensure you clean the unit from any dust, oil or rubbish before this overhaul. Here it goes: 1) So the unit is sealed. The main housing is made of aluminum so you cant just pry it trying to remove the sealed cap, it will brake the housing (trust me, I wasted 2 units already!). Grab a small flat head screwdriver and a small hammer. Gently tap the aluminum edge around the sealed cap to widen the edge. Be gentle or it will crack. 2) Try distributing the pressure evenly. Once the edge is wide enough, use a screwdriver to pup the cap off. (Note where I use the screwdriver, its the strongest point) 3) Once the cap is off, use a small screwdriver or a nail and patiently pick all dried out grease. I used a brake cleaner (spray can) to get rid of old stubborn grease. It wont leave any residue since it will all evaporate almost immediately. You don't have to do this. You could just clean by picking what you see. 4) I used a heavy duty, water resistant, long lasting general purpose grease with extreme temperature rating (non petroleum). The vent mechanism is very similar to steering box mechanism. Apply moderate amount of grease and push it in between the gears then move gears back and forth using the knob. 5) There is a small grease pan under the horizontal gear shaft. Repeat step 4 until you see grease coming out of the top of horizontal gear shaft. This means the bottom grease pan is full. (Try not to over fill). The vertical gear shaft has a small play (moves up and down by 1mm). Using your small flat head screwdriver, try getting some grease under the vertical gear shaft by pushing the other end of the shaft from outside of the housing. This will help smoothing the movement. 6) The vertical gear shaft is supported by a small tension bar from outside where the vent window frame is inserted. Remove the holding screw and tension bar, use small amount of grease on the inside of the tension bar and reinstall (do not over tighten the screw). 7) Now put the cap back on and gently tap the edges inward with a hammer. You're Done! Now, when I finished doing this, I noticed a small amount of grease under the vent mechanism housing where the horizontal shaft is. Looked closely and noticed there is a small hole possibly made for inserting grease occasionally or in major service intervals. But you need to clean out the dead grease before using this grease hole. Most currently available used vent mechanisms have dried out grease and in need of complete clean out anyway and you wont need another overhaul anytime soon! I hope this process is useful to any member. Cheers View full article
  27. 4 likes
    Sold the 76 Sahara California car, sad to see it go but now I have room in the garage again so I set up to start putting my front end back together. Also put spark plugs and 123 dizzy in the new motor. Exciting stuff, once the front end is complete I can drop the motor back onto it. Only bummer was one of the new ball joints did not accept an allen wrench to tighten the nut, frustrating.
  28. 4 likes
    Volume up. IMG_1289.mp4
  29. 4 likes
    I would recommend using the factory air cleaner/housing and snorkel... it gives you a lot of filter area and the snorkel routes fresh, cooler air from outside the hot engine bay. win-win Lots of folks poo-poo the single barrel Solex, but it is a very good carb that is about bullet proof once set up. I can see in you pics that is likely needs to be rebuilt (lots of fuel stains on it's exterior.) If you can rebuild a mechanical fuel pump, you can rebuild this Solex. As for the mechanical fuel pump, here's a recent thread with tips I recently rebuilt a 90 degree Pierburg and the spring that came with the kit was too strong, delivering too much fuel pressure. I recommend re-using your old spring when rebuilding. If you decide to go with the electric fuel pump in the trunk, you will likely need a fuel pressure regulator... Solexes don't need more than about 2 psi, otherwise fuel will push past the float needle valve and flood the carb. I see a couple other things in you pics: Vacuum pod on the distributor needs a line to the base of the carb, or insure the vacuum port on the base of the carb is capped off Throttle linkage is disconnected from the linkage arm? Also no throttle return spring? (I'll see if I can find pics for you) Hope this helps, Ed Z
  30. 4 likes
    #133 got on the truck in Ohio yesterday....
  31. 4 likes
    Starting to put stuff away in the new space
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    This is my euro spec 1967 1600, 6volt.... matching #s in Derby.... restored 8 years ago in its beautiful original glory! I am the 4th owner of this stunning car and it's documented that this is one of only four in the world surviving matching#s original Derby 1600 car. I hope to share this journey with you as I start to preserve this vehicle by maintaining it to be period correct and all original.... Tesoro is super happy to have someone to play with! More pics on the way! HELLO 67.MOV <<<<< (Check out the video from cargo)
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    My local independent "cool car" dealership that I drive by twice a day to work has a nice trifecta of '02 joy.. I think I need to stop in and take a look.... Anyone have a spare , say, $20K to loan me to get me started.....
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    A couple of appropriate sized ring terminals and a short section of wire. Crimp it up off the car and then install under the nuts.
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    Hey, Raj, The U.S. headlight buckets are the same from 1966 through 1976. There is a part number change with the square taillight cars (commencing September 1973) solely because the sealed beam retaining ring shifts from plated (most were silver cadmium plated but I believe the very early cars may have had chrome plating) to black powdercoating. The retaining ring is a minor component and can be swapped with 3 screws. But the buckets themselves are fully interchangeable. The shallow-grille implementation had no effect whatsoever on the U.S. headlight bucket. It simply meant that one no longer needed the asymmetric filler rings that dressed up the gap -- on deep-grille cars -- between the headlight retaining ring and the leading edge of the deep-grille's headlight surround. Here's a set I restored for the 1973. Honestly, I have no idea what year car they came off: I bought them on eBay. For a round taillight car, you need: 2 headlight buckets, 2 plated retaining rings, 2 asymmetric filler rings with tiny fragile gaskets. You skip the filler rings if your car -- late 1972 model year through end of 1973 model year -- has shallow grilles. I've said it many times before, I'd bet that a huge portion of deep grille cars are today missing the filler rings. It's no big deal. Photos below: 1. Typical un-loved headlight bucket. 9 out of 10 that I've seen have paint overspray from post-factory front end repairs (oddly, even on 5th owner cars that have "never been hit" 😋). The buckets were fully plated originally and installed by the factory after the car was painted. 2. Typical un-loved retaining rings. Probably not particularly early as they simply have tired Cadmium plating. 3. Loved retaining rings. Re-plated in clear zinc. Note, this photo shows two slightly-different styles. The ring on the right has a slightly longer skirt. I've noticed minor differences such as these among buckets and rings. I don't know if these differences reflect (a.) intentional design changes over time, (b.) "accidental" manufacturing differences related to or un-related to time (e.g., a change in suppliers, multiple simultaneous suppliers, or a change in manufacturing method), or (c.) something else, but none of these minor differences seems to affect the universal fit of the buckets and retaining rings. 4. Loved headlight buckets. Re-plated in yellow and clear zinc. One of these is the same as shown in the first photo. It always takes me about 15 minutes to distinguish a left bucket from a right bucket so I'm not going to even try! Regards, Steve
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    Hi everyone, Still high off of my recent succesful clutch replacement and associated scope creep. I decided to get to know and clean up my fuel injection system. Pics below with a couple of questions. Warning - Long and rambling First, some background. I purchased this early '72 tii last summer and have been sorting it out since. My goal is to keep it in stock condition. As for the fuel injection components, they look to be correct and operating pretty well, after tuning per tii guide. Just wanted to clean things up this time and replace some of the components with a spare set that has seen fewer miles. Hoping that I notice a difference after I get her back together. Injectors and tubes: Injectors have been cleaned and tested. Replaced the injection tubes with a younger set, but have an issue with tubes contacting one another:... QUESTION: Gently coax them into shape with a heat gun? Missing or messed up pieces: Here is a pic with a cable tie used instead of a clip for the fuel line and a cut up rubber boot for the cold start valve connector: QUESTION: Where can I source both of these pieces? K-Fish: Not planning on sending the pump out to Wes just yet as the car seems to be running fine. Looks like it is the original one. Throttle Body: It was covered in gunk and dirty on the inside. Cleaned her up to like new. Even has the original cap on the bottom! ... I think. with early style internals and what looks to be a relatively new spring.. Intake plenum(?): Happy to see the intake is stamped with the correct year (and month? 3 dots for March?) and while we are on dates and dots, here is what it looks like on the other side of the K-Fish. Not sure why the dots are arranged like they are: and here's Liesl!
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    One day I'll meet you Texas boys. Don't expect me to wear shoes though.
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    Anders It was so good to see you and your car at the Bavarian Tour this past May Love your website It has been a great aid to me in my 1600 project!!! Thanks again for doing this
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    Funny how certain cars can wander in and out of your peripheral vision. While driving around in a nearby neighborhood, MLytle and I spotted this car a few years ago. CA personalized tags "VERT 02" and Apple sticker in back window. I knocked on the door of the house it was parked outside but got no answer. Getting stranger. Some months later, my wife snaps this picture of a green automatic Roundie parked in an Old Town Alexandria garage (Alfred Street). Then, in December 2016, I received a call from a 2002 owner's spouse who wants to surprise her husband with a new Weber carburetor for his green 2002. After more discussions, MLytle and I agree to check out the car at the owner's house in Alexandria. The new owner of THE SAME CAR is John Simms. He bought it after stumbling across it in the neighborhood while riding with his wife to some yard sales. Marshall and I did some baseline checks and recommended to John he either have the distributor rebuilt or replaced with a 123 unit. John has the CA personalized tag hanging in his garage. Today, I went back over to John's and helped him get the car running again. Jeff @ Advanced Distributors did a great job on his original vacuum advance distributor. After getting the distributor installed correctly, replacing the old plug wires, adjusting the idle speed and distributor to Jeff's recommended setting (15 degrees BTDC), the car is running much better. John hopes to drive the car to this year's Vintage in NC.
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    Using this Google spreadsheet developed by Grice Mulligan, AKA williamggruff, users and abusers alike can investigate the outcomes of matching various BMW transmissions and differentials, and calculate a variety of RPM and speed values that result. Inputs are simple: Tire circumference and Redline RPM. Tire circumference can be estimated using the link provided. Redline RPM can be a target RPM, such as a preferred RPM at a cruising speed. BMW transmission gear ratios and differential final gear ratios.xls
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    Hello, Finally got the M42 all together and it looks awesome. I do think that the engine should look nice in the 2002, not too out of place! Some people sand the raised lines of the valve cover and that looks good in my opinion however I also like the solid black. What are your guys thoughts? Thanks
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    Here is a quick video showing the rear suspension assembly process! Everything always looks easier in videos...
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    Gratuitous post to increase post count. Because I'm vain. Due to the increasingly odd used car market, and the escalating price of fixing the things, I picked up a LOT more car than you'd ever get in a 2002, and I paid about what a 'barely running kinda rusty' square tail would cost around here if you really found a good deal. Needs a clutch, tho, which will almost double my investment in it. Now Jenn and I both have E46's. Hers runs, though... Incidentally, I also found the absolute dimensional limit of my little 2002- hauling trailer. It left a trailer- tire rub mark on the passenger rocker... The price of the commuting lifestyle, t
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    Picture I took of Stella while I waited for her to have her Texas State Inspection completed.
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    Seller here, Pretty simple in my book...1st come, 1st served by any means... PM, note, ..courier. Have to say, 02princess was pretty quick on the draw! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Ray asked early-on about relaying some driving impressions of this old coupe. I've been driving it now for the last few weeks and spent a full day with it yesterday on the highway, rural roads, and my favorite twisties; it was a lot of fun. To compare it to my 2002s... well, my Manila car has an engine very similar to what the Coupe has... 40mm side drafts, 292 cam, header; but the suspension is another story. The Manila has stock springs cut by at least a coil, ST bars front and back with Billy Sports, and 15" 195/50 Yoko S Drive tires, OD 5 speed, short shifter, and 3.91 LSD. The Manila '71 feels very light underneath me with very quick response to steering inputs and throttle. The rear end will come around when heavy-footed but is mostly neutral as long as you are planting the rearend with some throttle. The '75 I'd been fixing up and driving had an old stock engine with fresh 32/36 and a good dizzy, but it was tired. That Squaretail had ST bars, ST springs and Bilstein HDs all around, and 13' Turbines and Kuhmo all season tires. That car felt heavy and underpowered. It pushed (understeered) a good bit more than the Roundie. I never worried about the rear end coming around; it just didn't have the power to drift it. Now to the 2000CS... This engine makes pretty good power, but the car seems slow to build speed. Factory brochure states a dry weight of 2535 lbs, but a Car and Driver test in 1966 states 2650 and a tested weight of 2845...it feels heavy. First gear in the Manila car seems to redline almost instantly, where the Coupe lags behind a bit. It has a similar rear drive gear (3.89 long-neck, open diff) but sports 14' steelies and 195/70 Kuhmos. It seems the taller tire (and weight) takes away the snappiness I feel in the '02. ( I need to measure tire heights to compare). On the open road, the Coupe happily lopes along in 4th at 65 mph and about 3400 rpm. Now... this particular Coupe came to me with no sway bars at all, but Bilstien shocks and I'm not sure what strut cartridges, but they are not soft. This car has a Quick Ratio steering box, and I'm very glad it does. Combined with its 420mm skinny, bus wheel, it feels just about right. With the lack of sway bars, the body leans a good bit and combined with the fat Kuhmos, this Coupe understeers like a classic, American muscle car. You simply can not throw it into a tight corner and expect a lot in return... it's going to push. ( I haven't had time to play with tire pressures, though I bet there is some improvement to be had) Some other impressions... The pedals are hinged at the top, so again, it feels like a late 60s GTO. Clutch throw is much longer than the '02, but brake and throttle are perfectly aligned for heel-toe, double clutch downshifts and the throttle pedal is light enough to blip it without much effort at all. In fact, the Coupe may be slightly easier for me to match rpms on corner entry. The shifter is pretty sloppy and the throws are lonnnnng. No point speed-shifting these old Porsche synchros anyways... (receipts show 2nd and 3rd synchros replaced about 20,000 miles ago) The seating position is higher than the '02 and at 6' 2", my head is right at the headliner (though the headlner sags a bit). Seats are early NK stuff, with no headrests and very little lateral support, but they are comfy. Only lapbelts in the car at the moment... I need to sort out a shoulder harness, somehow. Overall? It's a beautiful touring car with great highway manners that respond well in long sweepers at speed. I can see why BMW redesigned this car into the e9 with a more powerful 6 cylinder, but I have a few tricks in the works... This engine was rebuilt with lots of head-work and tall pistons. It still sports it's 40mm Solex PHHs and factory exhaust manifold. I have an Alpina A2 set up with 45mm Webers, open element air can, and a long tube header... Those modifications will get that head breathing and probably provide the extra ponies needed to make this Coupe feel more responsive. The addition of some proper sway bars and new tires will go a long way to improving it's cornering manners, that's for certain. In the meantime... I love driving it. It gets a LOT of weird looks, that's for sure... "hey mister...what IS that? " Stay tuned... Ed Z
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    Hagerty invited my car to be photographed for use in their magazine. They are directing some of their marketing to a younger audience so they photographed a few collector cars that are more affordable for younger enthusiasts. Amazing what a professional photographer can do. BTW, I'm not in any way affiliated with Hagerty. Cheers.