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Welcome to BMW 2002 FAQ
The most comprehensive resource for information on BMW models produced from the 1950's through the 1970's. We cover BMW 2002 and all its variants like BMW 1502, BMW 1600-2, BMW 1602, BMW 1802, ti, tii, Touring, Cabriolet, Targa, Turbo, and others. We also have comprehensive information about BMW Neue Klasse vehicles like BMW 1500, BMW 1600, BMW 1800, BMW 2000, tilux, ti, tisa, tii, cs. To make sure we cover all the classics we also have information on BMW 700 and BMW 1600GT.
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One of the busiest model specific forums on the web
BMW 2002 General Discussion BMW 2002ti and BMW 1600ti Owners Group BMW 2002 Turbo Discussion BMW Neue Klasse General Discussion BMW 1600GT Discussion BMW 700 General Discussion -
Latest Topic
To rebuild now or later
Hello All, I am new to the forum as a poster. But, I have been in the peanut gallery for a while! Need help with a decision. I recently pulled my first 2002 - it's a 76 - out of storage after almost a year. I bought it and socked it away for a while (to avoid the wife) and until I finished building my garage. Well it's out now and I am starting to work on it. It's in fair condition. Quite a bit over 100K miles. Don't know exactly as the odometer stopped working. Has not been driven much in the last several years. I have probably driven it less than 20 miles. I know the engine is a bit tired. I did a compression test (warmed up) and got 145-130-140-140. That 2nd cylinder has a pretty oily plug. Not the worst numbers, but definitely not the best. I plan to do a compression leak test. Had a lot of popping on deceleration on my last spirited drive while working through the Seafoam. Tested the exhaust today with air pressure and soapy water. Found small leaks around 2-3 exhaust gaskets, at the down pipe flange, and not to mention a gaping hole at the flange before the resonator. More interestingly, I had bubbles coming out in the middle of the exhaust manifold on the outside - obviously there's a crack. I am debating should I just put a tired little engine out of it's misery and just pull and rebuild the thing? I eventually want to build a performance M10. Overall, I want to restore the car and keep it drive-able most of the time. Thoughts?
URO Door Seal install and review
A few months back, I revived a thread regarding URO door seals versus OEM. There had been lots of talk about URO changing their design or materials to better match OEM seals. It was not confirmed whether or not URO had again updated their seals so I reached out to them and got a quick and friendly response. The seals had recently been made with softer material and they had not heard any real negative feedback since. The URO rep offered to send me a pair if I would let him know my thoughts and take lots of pictures and review the process on here. I couldn't say no to that offer. So, I got the seals for free but my feedback below is based on my experiences. I owe this board far more than the value of a few seals. A few notes: I have never installed door seals before-OEM or otherwise. My drivers side door is misaligned and remains that way, more on that below. I don't know how old the old seals were, they were on the car when I bought it 7 years ago. I don't know what brand the seals were. I am pretty sure they were not original 41 year old seals because, though they were fairly dry and leaked air, they were mostly in one piece. And they were installed slightly wrong on the bottom end (more below). Forgive the awful shape the car is in. I started too many projects at once instead of just enjoying the car. Well, sort of one piece, with some creative repairs If you zoom way in you may be able to notice the door did not sit flush with the seal along the leading edge of the vent window frame. This was before. It is really hard to get a good picture of this. It took some prying to get started removing the old seal off, but once it started it just peeled off. Good news! The new seal is new looking, the old one...not so much: Here is what is left after removing the seal, a whole bunch of adhesive residue: Ruh roh, some rust peaking through. I never should have took that three year hiatus to the east coast, car went from virtually rust free to...not so much. I did some very rudimentary rust repair and sealed it, hopefully it lasts. This next step is the worst part of a not very fun job. Removing the residue, I used rubbing alcohol and goo gone and a lot of scrubbing and friction. I should have bought something stronger, don't make my mistake, get something you have to wear three sets of gloves for. Not exactly perfect but at some point frustration gets the best of you and you have to move on. Next, time to start installing. Start with the rear uppermost corner, it's easy to identify on the new seal its the hard squarish thing. For a hot second, I wanted to use the wrong side seal, it just looked like it fit better but you can figure it out with some staring. Ugh, but how the heck do you get this thing started? I know you have to wedge the lip into the metal groove and door, but it just won't go. I was working with a small putty knife...and a butter knife...and a few screwdrivers... I added some dish soap as lube and applied a bit of heat (don't add heat). Finally, I got it started. I don't have any tips for how it happened, it just started going in at some point. Work slowly wedging the lip in towards the front of the car. Once you get it started, it gets easier. I just kept working forward until I got done with the lip part and then working down from the starting point until I got done with the lip part. DON'T DO THIS. More below, but just get the top right part started with several inches forward and several inches down. After I got there, I started gluing in with 3m weather strip sealant stuff. I again failed to have the right tools on hand and lacked adequate clamps to hold things in place, but it mostly worked out. Look! I'm all done? Nope, I screwed up. I did wrong. How does the stupid end fit in with the stupid skid plate? My previous seals had the tips wedged all the way under the skid plate but there is just too much material here. What's wrong? Are the seals faulty? Too long? Did I work too slowly? Did the seals stretch out too much as I worked? Sort of. The FAQ cleared up wear the tips were supposed to slide in--to the upper part of the skid plate, but I still had too much material. Return to this picture from above: Doesn't quite line up at the bend real nice. Time to pull up all that fresh glue I put down and get back to scrubbing adhesive again...BOO What you need to do is after getting the top corner of the seal started just a bit in both directions, skip ahead. Go to the end of the lips on both ends (just above where the glue starts in the picture above) and then wedge them in place, go a few inches up to secure it. Now, work inward from both directions until finished. My problem was I stretched the rubber too much on the upper ends and was left with extra material down below. Lesson learned. After trying again, I was in much better shape. Still not perfect because I rushed the front edge out of frustration, but now I can get the skid plate back on and tuck the nibs in. The other side was much much quicker, though I am still an inpatient man. In hindsight, I maybe should have left the skid plates on the whole time to use them as two more guideposts. Lack of proper clamps led to hurried work. So what's the verdict? My driver's side door is still out of whack. The seal didn't fix the serious alignment issues I have with that door! Go figure. The passenger door, however, was aligned well before hand. The leading edge of the vent window was flush with the seal before. The new seal, as seen above, pushes the front edge of the door a little bit. Is this a problem of hardness of materials? Or just the newness of the seal? I don't know. It is not enough to make closing the door too tough. I have not tried realigning the vent window because I want to see if the seal breaks in. I have been applying some rubber conditioner and I think it is making a difference. When the seal was first installed I could barely engage the door lock on the passenger side (because the door was being pushed outward a bit). Now it turns just fine. I think that means the door is settling into the seal. I went through a car wash yesterday and my drivers window poured water through wear the window is off kilter (no surprise--well, I mean it was quite a surprise when I got drenched) but the passenger door held tight, even with the front edge being a bit off. Overall, I think I am happy with the seals. I could have done a much better job installing, and if (heaven forbid) I have to do this again, I will do a better job. I will also almost certainly buy the cheaper URO seals. Since this install, I have ordered a URO trunk seal, which looks like a much easier job.
tii original fuel pump: repair?
All, good news my original type tii fuel pump runs when connected to 12V and pumps fuel in quantity...however its leaking..likely a dried-out seal, from around the electrical socket on the side of the pump body. I searched a bit but couldnt find any info on stripping/repairing these pumps...can anything be done?? dave
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SF Bay Area Neue Klasse und Kaffee - Santa Clara
12/15/2018, 04:00 PM 07:00 PM
This month we are going to meet back in South Bay. Santa Clara to be more precise. Chromatic Coffee 5237 Stevens Creek Blvd. Santa Clara, CA The official time will be from 8am to 11am, but all are welcome to come early and leave late. If you need some tools, Harbor Freight is in the same parking lot. Cover Photo by prsvere
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