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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

Buckeye

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About Buckeye

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  1. coat inside little rubber boots with dielectric grease before pushing them onto spark plugs
  2. Second picture, fuel return valve. it is not part of somg setup. Keep it.
  3. Let me know if I can be any help
  4. you mean the ones like this? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/rub-buffer/51245476138/
  5. it is amazing that the castle nut in pitman arm has no sign of rust. Hard to find one like that these days. Car must lived outwest all its life. You can buy BMW rubber bushings to replace old ones assuming CA are not bent, etc and since Control Arms are not avilable at this time.
  6. I think you will need repair sheet for A-posts. looks like avilable from WN; https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/body-work/bmw-1502-2002-turbo/catalog-picture-41-06.html Picture from Jim's Project Blog
  7. Start with reverse bleeding the system first the old way (two persons) Start at front left/driver side (Upper, inner & outer), then do same thing on front passenger side. By this time you should see majority of bubbles exited the system. After initial bledding as described above proceed to normal bleeding starting RR, RL, etc. I had trouble bleeding the brakes when overhauled beake system. Rear right wheel cylinder would not bleed at all, so I decieded start with front calipers and then the normal way brake bleeding. That solved it for me. Hope this will work and can see you at Vintage
  8. Had the front suspension/sub-frame rehab past Winter and yesterday got the front-end alignment done at the shop in anticipation for drive to The Vintage 2017
  9. Your car has best set up for air induction and I would not change anything.
  10. +1 on what esty said. With the engine cold, remove air filter top plate, depress gas linkage/pedal a couple od thimes and see if carburatoer butterfly colses. If not, check choke mechanisim to see if it is binding. You may need to lubricate choke mechanisim. Unrelated - Remove fule filter currently close to fule pump and install it close to firewall. That wasy less heat observed by fuel filter.
  11. I used Koyo bearings. You want to make sure your new bearings have C3 designation, which is bearings having an internal clearance other than Normal. here is my write up for rear wheel bearing rehab.
  12. See section 4 on the following link; Depends on how you torqued the boltsNo. See my post. First loosen bolts slighly, then tighten to final specified torque.
  13. Drip from bellhousing is either engine oil or trans fluid. I have not seen trans front seal let go, therfore most likely is the rear crank seal. Lossing brake fluid could be from wheel cylinders, calipers, primary & secondry clutch cylinders.
  14. Regardless of notches facing whichway, you got to get hold of that sliding bracket (pix 3&4) and move it inward in order for the bracket notch gets lined up with headrest posts notches, then pull it up. Those four funnel things are very briddel. Try not to destroy them. Post a few pictures of yours. It makes it easier...
  15. If you used original cylinder head torque procedure (3 stage) to final setting then should revisit at 600 miles. First loosen bolts slighly, then tighten to final specified torque.