Buckeye

Solex
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About Buckeye

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Columbus, Ohio

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  1. @Crash513 you don't mention what type of shocks and struts are currently on your car.
  2. I went thru same ordeal a few years back when had the engine out and dis-assembled dipstick tube. Once everything back in engine bay filled the engine with with 5 quarts of oil, because oil was not coming up to the second mark on dipstick. Realized something not right. like you drained some oil, measured it and filled again to 4.5 quarts oil exact. Then played around with upper section tube both axially and rotating until dipstick showed oil on second mark. I also noticed if upper tube not set properly you cannot push dipstick in without bind. That was another sign that something not set right. Glad you figured it out.
  3. brake time.

    You done nice job refreshing rear brakes. To take full performance of your rear brakes one should measure brake drums diameters. Drum diameter should be as followings assuming your car is 2002 model; Brake drum diameter: 230 mm 1st oversize: 230+0.5 mm 2nd oversize: 230+1.0 mm
  4. Wegweiser

    Paul, I’m not sure what to say, but I want you to know that I care and I’m sorry this has happened. I’m thinking of you. Get well soon. Best Regards, Farshid
  5. Congrats. are you selling or getting feeler?
  6. Removing rear struts

    use allen head wrench into cenetr threaded section.
  7. Here is another DIY instruction for rear wheel bearing and seals replacement.
  8. Weber 32/36 run-on and other issues

    When was last time you cheeked the timing? Dwell angle 59-64 deg. (lower number the better) and 25 deg. BTD @1400 RPM. have your timing set first, then move on to adjusting the carb.
  9. How did engine run before you pulled it out? TDC skip or jumping around on your car or watching you friend working on another car? Two possible reason for that; 1). Slack in timing chain probably caused by stretched timing chain; 2). Excessive axial play in ignition distributor shaft. I am assuming this is your leisure vehicle and hobby. I would not take the cylinder head off if it was me. You probably will be putting around 1-3K miles on car and you will be fine. One thing that you could do once engine back in to replace those spark plugs with NGK brand either BP5ES or BP6ES ( BP5 slightly hotter than the BP6) .
  10. Article should help with re-assembly
  11. Take the trailing arm off of sub-frame and take it to a shop and let them to take it off with impact gun...
  12. You should've loosen castellated nuts before removing rear sub-frame. Would've been lot easier, but there is always someone out there done it similar way and found way to.... http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/24rear_teardown.html BTW, that is not Loctitie. It is dab of paint at assembly saying it is done and it is part of quality check...
  13. take the diff off of sub frame and spay it with your favorite de-greaser and let it soak for a day. Then take it out and use pressure washer to really clean it out. Put you mouth on that breather pipe and blow. After while you won't be able to blow in. Let go and will hear air exiting the cavity. Paint it with your favorite color and is done. Or at least that is what I did and I been monitoring leaks for 1-1/2 year and have not seen any.
  14. Differential Carrier Alignment

    Please follow following procedure. should not have any issue down the road. and rubber bushings are not upside down. correct?