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  1. I was stalking this, as it's in my backyard. I swapped a message with the seller's wife who said "Hi Rob, there are no rust holes or body rot. The car has been jacked up and looked at, looks fine. It had been garaged for the past 25 years. My husband had it running about a year ago and then the starter went. The engine is definitely not seized. We do not have a title, but we do have an old registration. It was last registered in 2004. You are more than welcome to come look at the car. Also, all the paperwork we have." I tried to line up a time to go see it, but she wasn't quick on responding to my asking for a time slot, and then snow moved in. Then a bid came in, and I saw that there was a reserve on the auction. The odds of my snatching it for the eight grand opening bid, or near it, vanished. I thought about it carefully, realized that I barely had the money and had nowhere to put it over the winter, and let it go. It just closed for $16,100, which was certainly more than I would've paid sight-unseen. I hope whoever snagged it posts about it here, and that it turned out to be a diamond.
  2. Yes, the cold start injector is ALWAYS required. Even when you've driven the car in warm weather, once 20 minutes or so have elapsed, it'll be hard to start without that one-second burst of fuel. As others have said: --With the car cold, pull off the air cleaner and rubber boot, then crack the key to ignition to run the fuel pump and check for leakage in the cold start injector. --Then have someone start the car while you watch the injector and make sure it sprays, then stops. --Then do the same thing when the car is warm. It should spray for a second, then stop. If it doesn't, that's likely the warm-start problem. If there's any problem in the cold start circuit, I typically just hot-wire it to a push-button switch. You can do this temporarily and see if it solves your warm-start problem. Note that it's MUCH more effective having the valve spray while the engine is being cranked (since that draws air and fuel into the engine) than spraying it and THEN cranking the engine. Rob
  3. Rob Siegel's (that's me :^) 1972 2002tii Well-sorted survivor car with some desirable mods. Very little rust, plastic intake plenums, close-in pre-2 ยฝ mph bumpers, numbers-matching engine (yay!), snorkel nose (boo!), 105k, 5-speed, refreshed engine, rebuilt injection system, freezing air conditioning, mint reupholstered 320i Recaros, Bilsteins, no sunroof. $๐Ÿ๐Ÿ•,๐Ÿ“๐ŸŽ๐ŸŽ Only a sampling of the photos are in the ad below. HERE IS THE LINK TO THE GOOGLE PHOTO ACCOUNT CONTAINING NEARLY 200 PHOTOS AND TWO VIDEOS https://photos.app.goo.gl/n7JjL6byAUfEXd6TA Before you ask me any questions, please read this entire ad, as I go into a lot of detail. THEN, IF YOU HAVE SERIOUS INTEREST OR QUESTIONS, CALL ME AT 617-365-8303 OR PM ME. Okay, folks, due to the usual reasons of space, money, and priorities, I am considering selling Kugel, the Chamonix โ€™72 2002tii Iโ€™ve owned it for eight years thatโ€™s on the cover of my first book. Keep in mind that I have another โ€˜72tii (Louie, soon returning home from its sojourn at the โ€œICONโ€ exhibit at the BMW CCA Foundationโ€™s museum), plus a ratty hot-rod 2002 (Bertha), plus the 48,000 mile one-owner โ€™73 2002 I just bought. So thereโ€™s nothing unusual or sinister about me thinking about selling Kugel. Itโ€™s a reasonable place for the finger to fall when I look down the list at cashing out of one of the cars. Iโ€™m looking to get $27,500. My rationale is that thatโ€™s between the values of project cars and well-sorted cars sold during the past two years on BaT. ๐‰๐ฎ๐ฌ๐ญ ๐ญ๐จ ๐œ๐ฎ๐ญ ๐ญ๐จ ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐œ๐ก๐š๐ฌ๐ž, ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ฆ๐š๐ฃ๐จ๐ซ ๐๐ž๐Ÿ๐ข๐œ๐ข๐ž๐ง๐œ๐ข๐ž๐ฌ ๐จ๐Ÿ ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐œ๐š๐ซ ๐š๐ซ๐ž: --๐›๐ฅ๐š๐ญ๐š๐ง๐ญ๐ฅ๐ฒ ๐ฏ๐ข๐ฌ๐ข๐›๐ฅ๐ž ๐›๐ฎ๐ญ ๐ง๐จ๐ง-๐ฉ๐ž๐ซ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ๐š๐ญ๐ž๐ ๐ซ๐ฎ๐ฌ๐ญ ๐ฌ๐ฉ๐จ๐ญ๐ฌ ๐จ๐ง ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ฅ๐ž๐Ÿ๐ญ ๐Ÿ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ซ ๐š๐ง๐ ๐ซ๐ข๐ ๐ก๐ญ ๐๐จ๐จ๐ซ --๐›๐ฅ๐ข๐ฌ๐ญ๐ž๐ซ๐ฌ/๐ฌ๐จ๐Ÿ๐ญ๐ง๐ž๐ฌ๐ฌ ๐จ๐ง ๐ฅ๐ž๐Ÿ๐ญ ๐ซ๐ž๐š๐ซ ๐Ÿ๐ž๐ง๐๐ž๐ซ ๐š๐ซ๐œ๐ก ๐š๐ง๐ ๐ซ๐ข๐ ๐ก๐ญ ๐ซ๐ž๐š๐ซ ๐ฌ๐ก๐จ๐œ๐ค ๐ญ๐จ๐ฐ๐ž๐ซ --๐š ๐ฏ๐ž๐ซ๐ฒ ๐ฌ๐ฆ๐š๐ฅ๐ฅ ๐ซ๐ฎ๐ฌ๐ญ ๐ฉ๐ž๐ซ๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ๐š๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง (๐Ÿโ€ ๐ฑ ๐Ÿ/๐Ÿ–โ€) ๐จ๐ง ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐Ÿ๐ฅ๐จ๐จ๐ซ ๐ฐ๐ก๐ž๐ซ๐ž ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ฏ๐ž๐ซ๐ฒ ๐›๐š๐œ๐ค ๐จ๐Ÿ ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ฅ๐ž๐Ÿ๐ญ ๐Ÿ๐ซ๐š๐ฆ๐ž ๐ซ๐š๐ข๐ฅ ๐ฆ๐ž๐ž๐ญ๐ฌ ๐ข๐ญ --๐š๐ง ๐จ๐๐ ๐ฆ๐จ๐ฎ๐ง๐ญ๐ข๐ง๐  ๐จ๐Ÿ ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐Ÿ๐ซ๐จ๐ง๐ญ ๐›๐ฎ๐ฆ๐ฉ๐ž๐ซ. ๐€๐ฅ๐ฅ ๐š๐ซ๐ž ๐๐ž๐ฌ๐œ๐ซ๐ข๐›๐ž๐ ๐›๐ž๐ฅ๐จ๐ฐ. ๐ˆโ€™๐ฆ ๐ฎ๐ง๐ฅ๐ข๐ค๐ž๐ฅ๐ฒ ๐ญ๐จ ๐š๐œ๐œ๐ž๐ฉ๐ญ ๐จ๐Ÿ๐Ÿ๐ž๐ซ๐ฌ ๐จ๐ง ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐œ๐š๐ซ, ๐š๐ฌ ๐ˆโ€™๐ ๐ž๐ข๐ญ๐ก๐ž๐ซ ๐š๐๐๐ซ๐ž๐ฌ๐ฌ ๐ญ๐ก๐ž๐ฌ๐ž ๐ข๐ฌ๐ฌ๐ฎ๐ž๐ฌ ๐จ๐ฏ๐ž๐ซ ๐ญ๐ก๐ž ๐ฐ๐ข๐ง๐ญ๐ž๐ซ ๐จ๐ซ ๐ฉ๐ฎ๐ญ ๐ข๐ญ ๐จ๐ง ๐๐š๐“ ๐›๐ž๐Ÿ๐จ๐ซ๐ž ๐ˆ ๐๐ข๐ ๐ญ๐ก๐š๐ญ. Hereโ€™s the basic rundown. --Kugel is a VERY solid though not completely rust-free (more on that below) semi-survivor car with 105,207 miles and some highly-desirable mods (5-speed, just-reupholstered 320i Recaros, brutally cold a/c). Itโ€™s very well-sorted; you can drive it anywhere. The phrase โ€œIdeal 2002 to restore or drive as isโ€ gets thrown around too easily, but I think that it applies particularly well to this car. My recommendation is to simply keep it dry (which you should be doing anyway) and drive it and enjoy it. --Itโ€™s an early tii, VIN 2760888 (e.g., the 888th US-spec tii), manufactured January 27th, 1972, with numbers-matching engine, correct plastic intake plenums, correct ยฝ-year-only 121ti head for a tii (no hole for the fuel pump rod and 46mm intake valves), and the close-in pre-2 ยฝ mph bumpers that give the early cars such a nice tidy compact look. --I believe that the car was originally sold into New Mexico (I have an old Santa Fe title) and lived there until it was purchased by a gentleman in Maine, I believe in the 1990s. He passed away, it went into storage for a number of years, was sold and purchased by an independent BMW mechanic in about 2011, and then sold to me in 2012. The story of my purchase is described in my first book Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic. The car is on the cover of the book. --Due to, I assume, the carโ€™s New Mexico origin, it doesnโ€™t have the cold weather package. This means that it lacks the rear window defogger, so it has clear back glass, which gives it a nice clean look. And the floorboards have zero undercoating on them, so you can see exactly whatโ€™s there. The floorboards are so original and clean and solid that it makes you want to cry. --The body is in VERY good condition, but it is neither a total survivor nor is it completely rust-free. The nose was replaced at some point with a standard 2002 snorkel nose. And, no, Iโ€™m not going to claim that this is one of those rare โ€œfactory snorkelโ€ tiis BECAUSE THATโ€™S NOT TRUE; THERE ARENโ€™T ANY OF THOSE. It looks like the fenders were replaced as well. Whether the hood was too, Iโ€™m not certain. So itโ€™s likely the car had a frontal impact at some point in the distant past. --Thereโ€™s a little minor seam rust on the seams on the underside of the hood and trunk lid. --In the photos, it looks like thereโ€™s rust in one or two places on the rocker panels. Itโ€™s virtually nothing, a small amount of surface corrosion and some discoloration. --Probably dating back to the assumed frontal impact, the front bumper looks fine, but itโ€™s mounted in an unusual way. The โ€œJโ€ bumper brackets have been cut short, and rather than being bolted to the bumper supports with carriage bolts like they should be, theyโ€™re actually spot welded in place. I have no idea why. I have a pair of brand new โ€œJโ€ brackets with the tags still on them. I was planning on grinding off the spot welds, ditching the hacked-off brackets, and installing the correct ones, but I ran out of steam. Iโ€™ll supply the new brackets along with the car. Please appreciate that very few people would look at how the front bumper is attached (I only discovered this when photographing the car to ready it for sale), and no one other than me would pre-emptively reveal this oddity. If this turns out to affect its value in the marketplace, Iโ€™ll pull the bumper and deal with the brackets over the winter, but Iโ€™m not going to take a bath on the value over it. --There is a rust blister on the left front fender that it looks like was caused by a minor scrape. Iโ€™ve poked at it with a screwdriver and it appears to be completely solid, so itโ€™s possible that itโ€™s been repaired once and what Iโ€™m seeing is paint and putty separation. But the point is that itโ€™s solid. --There is a similar โ€œsolid blisterโ€ at the bottom of the passenger door. --There are, however, some forming soft blisters on the back side of the left rear wheel arch, and some softness on the right rear shock tower. Just to be clear, when I say โ€œblisterโ€ or โ€œsoftness,โ€ I mean either rust bubbling under the paint or rust already erupted through the paint, but not a rust hole, although if you poked it with a screwdriver (which I havenโ€™t and wonโ€™t), it is possible that it could become a hole. Iโ€™d love it if I could take the car to a shop and get these two spots cleaned up so I wouldnโ€™t have to apologize for them, but these days it seems virtually impossible to find a shop who will grind off rust spots and spot-paint them; shops seem to only want to do insurance work or full-on restoration. I found a guy who said heโ€™d grind them off and prime them, but was very hesitant to paint them due to paint-matching issues. I said Iโ€™d buy the paint and not hold him responsible, but he never circled back with me. For all these reasons, I keep coming back to thinking that itโ€™s best that I leave these decisions to the next owner. --The only actual hole I see on the car is a small thin line of rust, maybe 1/8โ€ wide and 1โ€ long, at the rearmost point where the left frame rail meets the floor. All of these spots are photographed below. --It is a VERY solid VERY honest car. Last summer I bought a MIG welder with the intent of tackling the rust myself, but I think itโ€™s best if I donโ€™t booge up the bodywork and, as I said, instead leave it the way it is for the next owner to make his or her own decisions. --I believe that, other than the nose and fenders, and possibly the hood, the rest of the paint on the car is original, but I donโ€™t do paint and bodywork so Iโ€™m not 100% certain. There are a few isolated dings, and thereโ€™s a bit of weathered-in superficial rust patina at one spot on the roof near the rain gutters, but in general the paint is shiny and presents itself very well. --The trim is very good. It has correct, proper, and original old-style "ridged" emblems on the hood and trunk. The brightwork (chrome) is in varied condition. The front grills are excellent. The rest of the chrome varies between very good and good. Many of the trim strips show isolated door dings. The rear bumper, however, has a bit of superficial rust near the center of the top surface. I have a shinier rear bumper I was planning on putting on, but itโ€™s from a โ€™73, has the 2 ยฝ mph bumper brackets, and theyโ€™re rusted in place. I looked at them, was ready to cut them off with a Sawzall, and ran out of steam. If the car doesnโ€™t sell this fall, Iโ€™ll deal with this over the winter. --The engine was refreshed by me about four years ago. The head was redone with new rockers, shafts, and valve seals. The block received an in-car refresh. The cylinder bores, pistons, and ring lands were measured by a machinist and found to be in-spec, so the bores were ball-honed and the pistons were re-ringed. New rod bearings were installed. --The mechanical fuel injection has been completely sorted. The Kugelfischer injection pump was rebuilt by Hans Utke of H&R injection, one of the experts in the field (he just passed away). The injectors were professionally cleaned and tested. New plastic injection lines and a new fuel pump were installed (ignore the photo showing the weird black #1 injection line; it was long ago replaced). All rubber fuel lines were replaced. All slop was removed from the injection linkage via installation of new linkage rods, ball studs, and plastic sleeves. It has a manual push button to actuate the cold start valve, as many tiis do. Push the button, crank the starter with the key, and the car starts effortlessly. --An air-fuel meter is installed in the change cup to the left of the instrument cluster. The injection system has been tuned so that, at wide open throttle, the air/fuel ratio is about 13.5, and is fairly close to the stoichiometric ideal of 14.7 while cruising. This was done through a combination of tweaking the location of the half-moon cam in the โ€œtuna can,โ€ and turning the so-called โ€œverbotenโ€ screw to enrich the mixture throughout the entire RPM range. The number of turns it was twisted has been recorded so that, if desired, it can be returned to the factory setting it was set at when the pump was rebuilt. --The original distributor was rebuilt by Jeff at Advanced Distributors. A Pertronix electronic ignition module was installed, driven by a Bosch Red coil and a proper ballast resistor so the entire in-line resistance is at least 3 ohms, as required by the Pertronix. --A Getrag 245 5-speed overdrive transmission from a 320i and a new clutch were installed. There is the tiniest โ€œcatchโ€ (thatโ€™s โ€œcatch,โ€ not โ€œmunchโ€) putting into second gear. Iโ€™m probably the only one who would notice it. Like everyone says, the five-speed IS really nice at lowering engine revs (and thus lowering cabin noise) on long trips, but isnโ€™t remotely necessary around town. --The car has Bilstein HD shocks and Suspension Techniques sway bars. There are camber plates in the front, installed by a previous owner. I donโ€™t know what the springs are; I havenโ€™t changed them. --A set of 320i leather Recaro seats, newly reupholstered by Dave Vaarco at Aardvarc Racing, were installed a few years ago. They are still essentially dead mint. The seats are black and the interior color is blue, but the eye isnโ€™t really drawn to the difference. I do not have the original pleated seats; they had already been removed and other sport seats had been installed when I bought the car. --The interior has a very nice vintage feel, and is original other than the 320i Recaros. The door cards are uncut (no radio holes). There is a little peeling of the silver reflective film on the accent strips, as there always is. The dashboard has a few cracks but is very presentable. The original silver paint around the three black-faced gauges is intact. The center console has the original Blaupunkt radio, and it works. The headliner and back seat are in very good to excellent condition. There is no sun/heat cracking of the top of the back seat or the back deck. The rug is in good original condition. The car has the original โ€œbus wheelโ€ which has a few cracks in the plastic. The clock is present but does not work. As I said, the air-fuel gauge sits unobtrusively in the change cup to the left of the instrument cluster. An oil pressure gauge sits above it. Neither are in gauge pods. If need be, one or both gauges can be removed; I installed the oil pressure gauge after I rebuilt the engine and wanted to be certain about oil pressure. --In addition to the original bus wheel, I have a black/silver Momo Prototipo wheel that looks a bit like the highly coveted Petri wheel that I can be persuaded to part with if my asking price is met. --The engine compartment is in very good unmolested condition save the Bosch Red ignition coil and the wires from the Pertonix. It is clean and pretty but not eat-off-it clean, or detailed, or restored. --I just cleaned the trunk. It also is very pretty, with the floor and side panels in very good to excellent condition. --I rebuilt the air conditioning using a new Sanden clone rotary-style compressor, an oversized condenser and fan, new hoses, and R12, and itโ€™s the coldest a/c you ever will experience in a vintage BMW. It blows at close to 32 degrees in 90 degree weather. It was extensively written about in my book The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning. --The heater box was rebuilt. A new fan motor was installed and the heater flaps were relined with new foam. --The water pump and hoses were all replaced when the engine was rebuilt. A new Walloth Nesch โ€œhigh cooling rateโ€ radiator was fitted last year. --The brakes were gone through. Rubber flex lines were replaced with braided stainless. --The front end was rebuilt with a new center track rod, tie rods, ball joints, and steering idler bushings. --The car is wearing E30 14โ€ BBS basketweave wheels with correctly-sized 195/60/14 Sumitomos with good tread. I also have a set of rusty but original 5โ€-wide tii-specific stamped steel wheels whose purchase can be negotiated (Iโ€™ll throw them in if you meet my asking price). --I recently installed a new small gear-reduction starter motor. --I wouldnโ€™t call the car completely rattle-free (almost no 2002 is), but itโ€™s fairly quiet, fairly free of annoying thunks and clunks, and is a joy to drive. As I said, the car is very well-sorted; it has been to MidAmerica 02Fest in Eureka Springs Arkansas, The Vintage in Asheville NC, and BMW CCA Oktoberfest in Pittsburgh. --Forgot to say that last year I patched a hole in the muffler. If this is a problem for a buyer, we'll figure it out. --Forgot to take and post compression readings. Will be glad to do so in the next day or two. --I AM going to BMW CCA Oktoberfest in Greenville SC in October, and would consider delivering the car there. Thatโ€™s pretty much it. As I said, call me at 617-365-8303 or PM me with questions.
  4. Some other information about the rockers: --Each one is numbered, corresponding to the cylinder, saying "1" on one side and "1.1" on the other, up to "4." --Each one has the number "836.9" --The date stamps are "85" or "86."
  5. I'm about to sell my "faux tii," the ratty '73 2002 parts car with a running tii engine in it I've been writing about for BimmerLife. I already found that it has a Schrick cam, but when I adjusted the valves, I noticed that I couldn't get a box-end wrench on the nut, unlike any other M10 or M30 engine I've ever owned. Paul Wegweiser pointed out that the rockers don't have the divot in the middle that stock ones do. Can any one identify them? And the valve cover has a breather hole, but doesn't have the tube protruding from the hole. The rest of the valve cover looks normal. Has anyone ever seen this? Thanks. --Rob
  6. Rob - I just finishedย binge reading your "Just Needs a Recharge" book, yes I was a little later to purchase it, too busy with other projects.ย  What a pleasure.ย  I've worked as a SW Engย in the auto and commercial HVAC industry for years and it was a great reminder and contained some wonderful detail for classic BMW retrofits and found it perfect for our now restoration business.ย  THANK YOU!


    1. thehackmechanic


      Thanks! I really appreciate that.

  7. Don't know if it's a scam or a quirky seller. The price DOES feel too good to be true, as, if well-photographed, it'd probably bring $15k to $25k on BaT. But if it IS legit, it's the classic risk/reward trade-off. I lose cars all the time because I don't want to take the risk of committing sight-unseen without seeing a lot of evidence on condition. I will always default to things within driving/seeing/towing distance. Louie (the '72tii that was the subject of Ran When Parked) was the exception, but someone I know and trust looked at it for me. A few years ago I helped a local guy buy two tiis sight-unseen on eBay. The first was much worse than we expected. The second was much better than we expected. He shrugged it off, said he does this all the time, and that it sort of averages out. I just don't have those resources.
  8. If it has a tii vin with a snorkel, yes the nose was replaced.
  9. Hey, folks. I don't post here often these days, but that doesn't mean that I don't use it as a reference source almost daily. I just wanted to say that, on this Saturday morning when I'm readying Bertha for the 2000-mile round trip to The Vintage, and I found last night that her rear lights were dim to the point of not being functional and not being able to find the ground location in the trunk, happiness was looking up "ground locations" here on the FAQ, finding a post that said that the trunk ground location is near the driver's side tail light, searching for it, finding it right there, finding that it was, indeed, loose, tightening it, and having the problems go away. Thanks for continuing to be the brain trust and repository of 2002 knowledge. Again and again and again. --Rob
  10. I hate to say "buy my book," but BUY MY BOOK! I go into a mind-numbing level of detail on most a/c related topics, including the basic recipe for rejuvenation: --If the car has a/c, re-use the stock evaporator assembly (the unit under the dash and surrounded by the console), but replace everything else. --Sanden clone compressor and Hobiedave bracket. --Big parallel flow condenser. --Big fan. --New receiver/drier --All new hoses. If the car DOESN'T have a/c, there are a number of options, but for most people, the easiest and cheapest is buying a used stock evaporator assembly and console. I'm all for the folks who have installed the ICE or DTECH systems or one of the small integrated climate control heat/evaporator boxes, but I haven't done it myself. Rob https://www.amazon.com/Just-Needs-Recharge-Mechanic-Conditioning/dp/0998950718
  11. Thanks! If there's any chance you could post that as a review to Amazon, I'd be in your debt! https://www.amazon.com/Just-Needs-Recharge-Mechanic-Conditioning/dp/0998950718
  12. Whoops! Sorry about the mistakes. No alcohol or drugs involved; just too many late nights. Shame on me. Thanks for catching them. I have it correct in the books. I'll see if I can get Hagerty to correct it. As a very small issue, I wouldn't say that "As the points' contacts wear down the gap INcreases, which DEcreases dwell and advances timing." The issue that I see with the point gap isn't that it loses metal and wears down and yawns open, but that the points pit and burn, which causes the gap to decrease, the dwell to increase, and the timing to retard. The main, uh, point, I was trying to make is that, with points and condenser, the point gap "wears," which in turn causes timing to change, and that an advantage to Pertronix or other electronic triggering is that it stops that. Thanks again. --Rob
  13. Andrew Wilson, Paul Wegweiser, and I were swatting this car around on FB. I love original cars, but if you're trying to get all the money (and $50k is certainly all the money), you'd think you'd: --Put insulation on the underside of the hood --Replace the aftermarket radiator and plug wires with ones that looked more original so the whole vibe of the engine compartment is one of originality --Stick a radio in the center console --Put the right wheels on the car, or at least not slotted '74-'76 wheels --Photograph the undercarriage --AND NOT PHOTOGRAPH THE CAR WITH THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE PEGGED! It's a person's right to try and maximize the sale price of a car, but for someone who says they've owned the car so long, it's surprising that the seller doesn't understand this. --Rob
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