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thehackmechanic

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  1. Georges, I partially agree with you. No drivable 2002--or for that matter, no drivable nearly 50-year-old vintage car of any make--is completely original. Even if you found one, at a minimum, filters and tires need to be changed, and likely fuel and coolant hoses and brake and clutch hydraulics. This one had a decent refreshing in 2004 (and yes the windshield gaskets were changed at that point), and I gave it a light sort-out after its 10-year sit. I also agree that a bone-stock 2002 isn't as exciting to drive as well-set-up 02 with engine and suspension mods. But I think you'll agree that a sub-50k-mile 2002 that appears to be wearing its original paint and front fenders, is still pretty and shiny, has only two rust holes in the trunk and fairly minor corrosion elsewhere, that doesn't appear to have been hit or to have had any metal repair, and that has as original and un-cut-up an interior as you're likely to find, is unusual enough that even a guy like me felt honor-bound not to do anything stupid to it.
  2. Hey, folks, my 49k-mile survivor '73 2002 "Hampton" is now on Bring a Trailer. The link is below. It's as intact a survivor as you're likely to find. Original paint, front fenders have never been off, the interior is remarkable. I've posted a very detailed description in the comments (scroll all the way to the bottom and read the first four from the bottom up). --Rob https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-bmw-2002-63/
  3. Ali, thanks, but I'm a hobbyist, not a professional. I don't really do work for other people.
  4. As others have said, my book, "Just Needs A Recharge: The Hack Mechanic Guide To Vintage Air Conditioning" (https://www.amazon.com/Just-Needs-Recharge-Mechanic-Conditioning/dp/0998950718/) is a good place to start, and has a lot of 2002-specific information. No 2002 had factory air, but those sold in the U.S. could have either Frigiking, Behr, or Clardy systems installed at the dealer. The Behr had the most factory-looking console, as Behr did the consoles in the E3 and E9, but it's also the most pain-in-the-butt, as all components including the fan and the expansion valve are inside the evaporator assembly. Part of the advantage of the Clardy system is that both the fan and the expansion valve are outside of an evaporator "tub" and are thus much easier to service. Some of the aftermarket systems that are available now are based more on the Clardy design. But, as others have said, if you're living in Bahrain, using any of those three original-style systems and filling them with modern R134a refrigerant is unlikely to keep you cool in that heat, even if you update them with a modern compressor, parallel flow condenser, and big fan. Using R12 (Freon) instead of R134a would help. You might want to look here on the FAQ for posts from folks who have used modern evaporator assemblies from ICE A/C, DTech, or the Vintage Air mini system, as none of those are covered in my book. If you want it to look "stock," the ICE A/C console I believe looks very similar to the Clardy console. The DTech one looks somewhat similar. With the Vintage Air mini system, I believe that you're on your own coming up with a console and vents. Yes, installing any a/c system requires punching two holes in the firewall for the inlet and return hoses for the evaporator, but that's not really that big of a deal. Keep in mind, though, that installation of a modern climate-control-style system like the Vintage Air mini system (with heat and a/c integrated in the same unit) is quite a bit more invasive than retrofitting an old-style system. The folks I know who have done it have had to cut into the firewall and into space occupied by the glovebox. For a car as old as a 1600, as others have said, you do want to be certain that a) the block has holes for the bracket to hold the compressor, and b) that the crankshaft pulley has the inner groove for the compressor belt. Good luck! --Rob
  5. It doesn't look exactly like this picture of Wes Ingram's tii throttle linkage (see link), but as Preyupy said, it's almost certainly trying to do the same thing. These days many of us manage the mixture by: 1) Using an air-fuel meter to adjust the verboten screw so that, at wide-open throttle, the mixture is about 13.5:1. 2) Loosening the half-moon cam in the tuna can and futzing with the KFish pump-to-throttle-plate adjustment until the mixture is tolerable in a wide range of driving. Agree with Preyupy that, unless there are some wild mods in the engine, you probably don't need it. --Rob
  6. Great, thanks John! No, that bracket is unfortunately not present. If I were keeping the car, I'd yank the EGR off it. I even bought the block-off plate for the intake manifold and the threaded plug for the exhaust manifold. But from the standpoint of putting the car on BaT and portraying it as an unmolested survivor, the EGR's presence reinforces the claims of originality and low mileage. Thanks again. --Rob
  7. John, I appreciate the plumbing diagram, but I'm less interested in the connections and more interested in knowing where the hose is physically. I'd initially assumed that its location laying on the valve cover was original because so much else about the car and the engine compartment are, but I can't find a photo of another 2002 with a vapor hose just draped over the valve cover like that.
  8. Hey, folks. I'm preparing my '73 2002 ("Hampton") to go on BaT. It's a 48,000-mile survivor car that still even has the EGR plumbing on it. Other than the Weber, I think everything in the engine compartment is original. Except that the output line from the vapor canister is just lying across the valve cover, where it T's to the intake manifold and the back of the EGR valve. I currently have it unhooked and the manifold port plugged to avoid any vacuum leaks, but... is that correct? Was it originally run just lying over the valve cover like that, or was it run against the inner fender and around the cowl? Thanks. --Rob
  9. In the big scheme of things, a year is nothing. Obviously, check the oil. It may take a while for it to fill the float bowl. A blast of starting fluid into the intake will help. Folks report widely varying experiences with aging gas. My gut is that in a year the gas won't be as "fresh," and you may get some amount of water having formed at the bottom of the tank, especially if the tank wasn't full and if the car was stored in a high-humidity environment, but you probably won't get varnish buildup.
  10. Hey, folks, I'm helping my friend Mike sell his Colorado '73 tii. It just went up on BaT. I've tried to be as straightforward as BaT will let me in the description, and I've written a summary of how I would've presented the car and posted it as the first comment. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-bmw-2002tii-58/
  11. When I upgraded the suspension in Louie, my bone-stock '72tii, to H&Rs, Bilstein HDs, and ST sway bars, I had a tough time getting the new front sway bar in. When I compared it to the front sway bar I took out, I noticed that the original bar didn't jut out as far as I remembered. I went to my little scrap heap in the backyard and found the front sway bar I'd pulled out of Kugel, my other (recently sold) '72tii, and sure enough, Kugel's front sway bar jutted out substantially further than the one in Louie. The one from Louie has very little jut-out; it almost just goes straight across. This is shown in the photo below. I'd never seen a front sway bar like this before, at least not that I remember. I had the epiphany that Kugel had dealer-installed a/c, but Louie did not, and it makes sense that the sway bar with the jut-out would be needed to clear the compressor. I just looked in realoem (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2583-USA-01-1972-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=31_0441), and I see that there ARE separate part numbers for non-a/c and a/c front sway bars. I can't recall every car I've pulled the original bars out to put bigger bars into, but I think the one with the bigger jut-out is the norm. I've always thought that the a/c systems were installed at the dealer. I have a copy of the Behr a/c installation manual, and I don't see it referencing replacing the front sway bar. Did the cars bound for the U.S. market automatically get the a/c-compliant front sway bar just in case? Learn something new every damn day...
  12. I have never done this myself (used these fittings), but I believe that Steve Peterson (Blunt) has.
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