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thehackmechanic

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  1. Just to update this, the float level was already higher than spec--it was about 31mm--and the fuel in the float bowl was more than covering the passages after I ran the engine, shut it off, and removed the top. I left it where it was. Removed the size 60 primary idle jet, tried the size 65 idle jet, and it made very little difference. Tried the size 70 idle jet, and it made a pretty substantial difference. Driving it now, I'm not sure I'd notice any hesitation had I not spent days chasing the problem. I freely admit that the bigger idle jet may be hiding some other problem, like a vacuum leak through the EGR plumbing, but I think I'll drive it this way for a bit and see if the hesitation mole pokes its head back up and I need to whack it again. --Rob
  2. Yes, sorry, I didn't say that. I pulled the top off the carb, pulled out all the jets and tubes, and blew it out with compressed air.
  3. Hey, folks, I've had my head in tiis for so long that I've forgotten all the Weber stuff :^) I'm sorting out Hampton, the 48,000-mile '73 2002 I bought from its original owner last fall. It's a very stock survivor other than the Weber 32/36. It still even has the EGR plumbing and the solenoid on the firewall controlling its vacuum actuation. It sat in a barn for about a decade before I bought it, but it resurrected pretty easily; the float bowl in the carb just had a little sediment in it, no gummy horror in it or the gas tank. The car starts instantly and basically runs well, except that it's got this obvious low RPM even-throttle hesitation that's fairly pronounced between about 2000 and about 3000 RPM. It smooths out a bit above that, but on the highway you can still feel it hesitating a bit. Put your foot into it (cause the accelerator pump to squirt down the primary barrel) and the hesitation goes away, then returns when the acceleration stops. I don't have an AFM on it or anything, but I've always associated this even-throttle hesitation with lean running. The plugs are pretty grey. I don't think it's an ignition or a timing issue. Timing is set to about 35 degrees of total advance. I've advanced and retarded it, vacuum line connected and plugged, no difference. I've swapped everything in the ignition but the distributor itself, no difference. So, vacuum leaks or Weber jetting, right? If it's a vacuum leak, I haven't found it. I pulled off every vacuum line, including the hose to the brake booster and capped the carb and intake ports with rubber caps; no difference. I sprayed around with carb cleaner while the engine was running and didn't detect anything. I AM, though, inherently suspicious of the EGR. I'd like to leave it in place as it helps reinforce the provenance of the car as a 48k survivor, but it strikes me as a huge potential vacuum leak. I've ordered the intake block-off plate and the Subaru oil drain plug for the exhaust manifold, but once I start to take it off, I'll probably ruin it, and there's no going back, so that's a last resort. The jets aren't anything strange. I have another old Weber, more for parts than anything else, and it has nearly identical jetting in it: primary secondary idle 60 60 main 140 140 corrector 170 160 I enriched the idle mixture a full turn, but it didn't seem to make a difference. What do you think? Try fatter idle jets? Thanks. --Rob
  4. This is probably in here somewhere, but I couldn't find it and needed to work it out for myself (again). Posting it so I can look it up when I forget it (again). When I say "overhand," I mean grabbing the tie rod adjusting bar with your knuckles on the top and rotating your knuckles away from you. When I say "underhand," I mean grabbing the tie rod adjusting bar with your knuckles on the bottom and rotating your knuckles away from you. This is all done from the front of the car, crawling under the front bumper and reaching in to grab the adjusting bars. Driver's Side Overhand rotation (clockwise as viewed from the wheel) toes the wheel IN (moves it to the right). Underhand rotation (counter-clockwise as viewed from the wheel) toes the wheel OUT (moves to the left). Passenger Side Overhand rotation (counter-clockwise as viewed from the wheel) toes the wheel OUT (moves it to the right). Underhand rotation (clockwise as viewed from the wheel) toes the wheel IN (moves it to the left). So, to adjust tow-in or out without changing the centering of the steering wheel, you twist the bars in OPPOSITE directions: To tow it IN, twist the driver's side adjusting bar OVERHAND and the passenger side adjusting bar UNDERHAND. To tow it OUT, reverse that--twist the driver's side adjusting bar UNDERHAND and the passenger side OVERHAND. If you want to center the steering wheel, you twist the bars in the SAME direction: If the car steers RIGHT with the wheel centered, you want to move both wheels to the LEFT, so twist both bars UNDERHAND. If the car steers LEFT with the wheel centered, you want to move both wheels to the RIGHT, so twist both bars OVERHAND. This knowledge was won by getting it wrong, writing it down, doing it, finding that it was wrong, and finding that I'd written it down wrong. There's a general alignment DIY article here (https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/low-cost-tricks-for-a-diy-alignment/). Basically I get it in the ball park with an alignment bar, then feel if it's wandering (toed out) or scrubbing (toed in). Generally it starts off wandering, and I make quarter-turn adjustments on both bars until it feels settled. You can turn it more and feel it starting to scrub and back it off. --Rob
  5. Hey folks. Sorry I'm not posting here much these days (I'm always still reading, though :^). Here's a fun tidbit I'm posting here before I write it up for BimmerLife. Years back, I was curious about whether you could remove a 2002's front strut cartridges while leaving the strut housing in the car—that is, undo the bushing at the top, but leave the housing connected to the steering knuckle at the bottom, tilt it out from under the fender, and compress the spring, remove the bushing, and swap out the cartridge in-place. The answer turned out to be: Yes, you can, if you can find a spring compressor to slide under the fender and squeeze the spring in place, but a) it's difficult to find such a compressor, and b) if you do, you need to be very careful that the bushing's threaded studs and the end of the strut piston don't gouge the paint and the metal on the underside of the fender lip. Again, years back, I bought a hydraulic spring compressor that if you modified it, was able to do this, but not long after I used it, it began leaking horribly. Fast-forward to this week. As part of planning a suspension upgrade in Louie, my '72tii that's the subject of Ran When Parked (and which I suspected was still wearing its original shocks and struts), I became aware of a recently-available spring compressor design with two curved plates squeezed together by a single thick threaded column, and was intrigued because a) it looked like you could fit it on the spring while the strut assembly was still in the car, and b) the bolt you need to tighten to squeeze the plates together is at the bottom where you can reach it. https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-MacPherson-Interchangable-Compressor-Extractor/dp/B0788C9VFL/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&keywords=bmw+spring+compressor&qid=1589929281&sr=8-19 I saw one of these compressors on Facebook Marketplace for half of new, so I bought it, and figured that I'd try the in-situ strut removal again. I first pulled off the caliper and undid the sway bar link, then maneuvered the compressor under the fender. I was thrilled that I could fit it onto the spring and access the tightening nut at the bottom, but I didn't seem to be getting enough squeeze on the spring. Remember, I was trying to not only compress the spring to take the tension off it to remove the bushing, but also to shorten the entire sprung length of the assembly so I could swing it out from underneath. I re-positioned the compressor so that the bottom plate was under the bottom cup rather than between two spring coils. This squeezed the spring downward quite a bit more. Placing a rag over the strut bushing so I wouldn't scratch up the fender, and using one foot to stand on the steering knuckle to force the bottom of the strut housing as low as possible, I WAS able to tilt the top of the assembly out from under the fender. From there, the removal of the bushing and spring are the same as if the assembly is laying on the floor, though you do need to take care not to have the weight of the whole thing lean too much on the ball joint, which is at an unnatural angle. Of course, the real question was then whether the gland nut holding the strut cartridge in the housing would come out without a fight to the death, because if it wouldn't, I would've needed to remove the whole housing so I could lay it on the floor and apply maximum leverage. Fortunately, a little heat, a little wax, and two pipe wrenches pulled it off. The cartridge inside did indeed appear to be the original oil-filled damper. So, it works. You CAN use this kind of compressor for an in-place strut housing replacement. But just to repeat: You need to be REALLY careful not to have the strut bushing scratch the hell out of the fender lip, and beyond that, it is likely to put some gouges in the undercoating up underneath the tower and the inner fender. If you don't want to risk this, don't do it this way. If the gland nut won't come off, you may still need to pull the housing out the old-fashioned way so you can lay it on the floor for maximum leverage. I'm installing a used set of Bilstein HDs I've had laying around, and since they're pressurized gas shocks and not hydraulic ones, they naturally extend to their maximum length, which means that, to get things back in, even with the spring compressed, I'll probably need to wrap a ratchet strap around the top of the strut to compress and shorten it while I maneuver it under the fender. Still, pretty cool, huh? --Rob
  6. That is very odd. I've installed at least six of these inexpensive Chinese-made Sanden 508 clones and have never had a problem, so given the choice of suspecting the compressor or the expansion valve, I'd suspect the expansion valve. I don't really know of a way to test it. I've never really trusted the new Uro Parts expansion valves, but I can't say that I had a bad one either. I tend to try to find NOS Egelhof valves or reuse old ones if they're clean. As it says in the book, if you know that the compressor is engaging, when you start to charge, you should immediately see the low side spike upward as the refrigerant gets drawn in. You need to moderate this with the blue knob on the manifold gauge set. It'll quickly stabilize and you can run the knob wide open. It should settle down on the low side somewhere between 20 and 40 psi. 80 is way too high. I do have a Clardy system in a box here at the house, but I've never had one in one of my cars. I worked on one in a friend's car and was very impressed by how cold it got on one can of R134a. They do have a nice advantage in having the expansion valve outside of the evap assembly. That's a tough choice. I had a problem in my E9 that I convinced myself was a clogged expansion valve, pulled the whole damn thing apart, and the valve appeared to be fine, at least visually. --Rob
  7. Hey folks. I know that there are a couple of threads about this already (in fact I quote from them in the BimmerLife piece linked to below), but I thought you might appreciate the story, as one of my cars would NOT prime itself after sitting over the winter, and the cause turned out be that it had a metal canister fuel filter in front of the fuel pump. It worked fine once I removed it. https://bimmerlife.com/2020/04/25/testing-a-mechanical-fuel-pump/ --Rob
  8. I was stalking this, as it's in my backyard. I swapped a message with the seller's wife who said "Hi Rob, there are no rust holes or body rot. The car has been jacked up and looked at, looks fine. It had been garaged for the past 25 years. My husband had it running about a year ago and then the starter went. The engine is definitely not seized. We do not have a title, but we do have an old registration. It was last registered in 2004. You are more than welcome to come look at the car. Also, all the paperwork we have." I tried to line up a time to go see it, but she wasn't quick on responding to my asking for a time slot, and then snow moved in. Then a bid came in, and I saw that there was a reserve on the auction. The odds of my snatching it for the eight grand opening bid, or near it, vanished. I thought about it carefully, realized that I barely had the money and had nowhere to put it over the winter, and let it go. It just closed for $16,100, which was certainly more than I would've paid sight-unseen. I hope whoever snagged it posts about it here, and that it turned out to be a diamond.
  9. Yes, the cold start injector is ALWAYS required. Even when you've driven the car in warm weather, once 20 minutes or so have elapsed, it'll be hard to start without that one-second burst of fuel. As others have said: --With the car cold, pull off the air cleaner and rubber boot, then crack the key to ignition to run the fuel pump and check for leakage in the cold start injector. --Then have someone start the car while you watch the injector and make sure it sprays, then stops. --Then do the same thing when the car is warm. It should spray for a second, then stop. If it doesn't, that's likely the warm-start problem. If there's any problem in the cold start circuit, I typically just hot-wire it to a push-button switch. You can do this temporarily and see if it solves your warm-start problem. Note that it's MUCH more effective having the valve spray while the engine is being cranked (since that draws air and fuel into the engine) than spraying it and THEN cranking the engine. Rob
  10. Rob Siegel's (that's me :^) 1972 2002tii Well-sorted survivor car with some desirable mods. Very little rust, plastic intake plenums, close-in pre-2 ½ mph bumpers, numbers-matching engine (yay!), snorkel nose (boo!), 105k, 5-speed, refreshed engine, rebuilt injection system, freezing air conditioning, mint reupholstered 320i Recaros, Bilsteins, no sunroof. $𝟐𝟕,𝟓𝟎𝟎 Only a sampling of the photos are in the ad below. HERE IS THE LINK TO THE GOOGLE PHOTO ACCOUNT CONTAINING NEARLY 200 PHOTOS AND TWO VIDEOS https://photos.app.goo.gl/n7JjL6byAUfEXd6TA Before you ask me any questions, please read this entire ad, as I go into a lot of detail. THEN, IF YOU HAVE SERIOUS INTEREST OR QUESTIONS, CALL ME AT 617-365-8303 OR PM ME. Okay, folks, due to the usual reasons of space, money, and priorities, I am considering selling Kugel, the Chamonix ’72 2002tii I’ve owned it for eight years that’s on the cover of my first book. Keep in mind that I have another ‘72tii (Louie, soon returning home from its sojourn at the “ICON” exhibit at the BMW CCA Foundation’s museum), plus a ratty hot-rod 2002 (Bertha), plus the 48,000 mile one-owner ’73 2002 I just bought. So there’s nothing unusual or sinister about me thinking about selling Kugel. It’s a reasonable place for the finger to fall when I look down the list at cashing out of one of the cars. I’m looking to get $27,500. My rationale is that that’s between the values of project cars and well-sorted cars sold during the past two years on BaT. 𝐉𝐮𝐬𝐭 𝐭𝐨 𝐜𝐮𝐭 𝐭𝐨 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐬𝐞, 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐦𝐚𝐣𝐨𝐫 𝐝𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐜𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐢𝐞𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐫 𝐚𝐫𝐞: --𝐛𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐭𝐥𝐲 𝐯𝐢𝐬𝐢𝐛𝐥𝐞 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐧𝐨𝐧-𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐝 𝐫𝐮𝐬𝐭 𝐬𝐩𝐨𝐭𝐬 𝐨𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐥𝐞𝐟𝐭 𝐟𝐞𝐧𝐝𝐞𝐫 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭 𝐝𝐨𝐨𝐫 --𝐛𝐥𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐬/𝐬𝐨𝐟𝐭𝐧𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐨𝐧 𝐥𝐞𝐟𝐭 𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐫 𝐟𝐞𝐧𝐝𝐞𝐫 𝐚𝐫𝐜𝐡 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭 𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐫 𝐬𝐡𝐨𝐜𝐤 𝐭𝐨𝐰𝐞𝐫 --𝐚 𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐲 𝐬𝐦𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐫𝐮𝐬𝐭 𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 (𝟏” 𝐱 𝟏/𝟖”) 𝐨𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐟𝐥𝐨𝐨𝐫 𝐰𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐲 𝐛𝐚𝐜𝐤 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐥𝐞𝐟𝐭 𝐟𝐫𝐚𝐦𝐞 𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐦𝐞𝐞𝐭𝐬 𝐢𝐭 --𝐚𝐧 𝐨𝐝𝐝 𝐦𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐟𝐫𝐨𝐧𝐭 𝐛𝐮𝐦𝐩𝐞𝐫. 𝐀𝐥𝐥 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐜𝐫𝐢𝐛𝐞𝐝 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐨𝐰. 𝐈’𝐦 𝐮𝐧𝐥𝐢𝐤𝐞𝐥𝐲 𝐭𝐨 𝐚𝐜𝐜𝐞𝐩𝐭 𝐨𝐟𝐟𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐨𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐫, 𝐚𝐬 𝐈’𝐝 𝐞𝐢𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫 𝐚𝐝𝐝𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐬𝐞 𝐢𝐬𝐬𝐮𝐞𝐬 𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐰𝐢𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐫 𝐩𝐮𝐭 𝐢𝐭 𝐨𝐧 𝐁𝐚𝐓 𝐛𝐞𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐈 𝐝𝐢𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭. Here’s the basic rundown. --Kugel is a VERY solid though not completely rust-free (more on that below) semi-survivor car with 105,207 miles and some highly-desirable mods (5-speed, just-reupholstered 320i Recaros, brutally cold a/c). It’s very well-sorted; you can drive it anywhere. The phrase “Ideal 2002 to restore or drive as is” gets thrown around too easily, but I think that it applies particularly well to this car. My recommendation is to simply keep it dry (which you should be doing anyway) and drive it and enjoy it. --It’s an early tii, VIN 2760888 (e.g., the 888th US-spec tii), manufactured January 27th, 1972, with numbers-matching engine, correct plastic intake plenums, correct ½-year-only 121ti head for a tii (no hole for the fuel pump rod and 46mm intake valves), and the close-in pre-2 ½ mph bumpers that give the early cars such a nice tidy compact look. --I believe that the car was originally sold into New Mexico (I have an old Santa Fe title) and lived there until it was purchased by a gentleman in Maine, I believe in the 1990s. He passed away, it went into storage for a number of years, was sold and purchased by an independent BMW mechanic in about 2011, and then sold to me in 2012. The story of my purchase is described in my first book Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic. The car is on the cover of the book. --Due to, I assume, the car’s New Mexico origin, it doesn’t have the cold weather package. This means that it lacks the rear window defogger, so it has clear back glass, which gives it a nice clean look. And the floorboards have zero undercoating on them, so you can see exactly what’s there. The floorboards are so original and clean and solid that it makes you want to cry. --The body is in VERY good condition, but it is neither a total survivor nor is it completely rust-free. The nose was replaced at some point with a standard 2002 snorkel nose. And, no, I’m not going to claim that this is one of those rare “factory snorkel” tiis BECAUSE THAT’S NOT TRUE; THERE AREN’T ANY OF THOSE. It looks like the fenders were replaced as well. Whether the hood was too, I’m not certain. So it’s likely the car had a frontal impact at some point in the distant past. --There’s a little minor seam rust on the seams on the underside of the hood and trunk lid. --In the photos, it looks like there’s rust in one or two places on the rocker panels. It’s virtually nothing, a small amount of surface corrosion and some discoloration. --Probably dating back to the assumed frontal impact, the front bumper looks fine, but it’s mounted in an unusual way. The “J” bumper brackets have been cut short, and rather than being bolted to the bumper supports with carriage bolts like they should be, they’re actually spot welded in place. I have no idea why. I have a pair of brand new “J” brackets with the tags still on them. I was planning on grinding off the spot welds, ditching the hacked-off brackets, and installing the correct ones, but I ran out of steam. I’ll supply the new brackets along with the car. Please appreciate that very few people would look at how the front bumper is attached (I only discovered this when photographing the car to ready it for sale), and no one other than me would pre-emptively reveal this oddity. If this turns out to affect its value in the marketplace, I’ll pull the bumper and deal with the brackets over the winter, but I’m not going to take a bath on the value over it. --There is a rust blister on the left front fender that it looks like was caused by a minor scrape. I’ve poked at it with a screwdriver and it appears to be completely solid, so it’s possible that it’s been repaired once and what I’m seeing is paint and putty separation. But the point is that it’s solid. --There is a similar “solid blister” at the bottom of the passenger door. --There are, however, some forming soft blisters on the back side of the left rear wheel arch, and some softness on the right rear shock tower. Just to be clear, when I say “blister” or “softness,” I mean either rust bubbling under the paint or rust already erupted through the paint, but not a rust hole, although if you poked it with a screwdriver (which I haven’t and won’t), it is possible that it could become a hole. I’d love it if I could take the car to a shop and get these two spots cleaned up so I wouldn’t have to apologize for them, but these days it seems virtually impossible to find a shop who will grind off rust spots and spot-paint them; shops seem to only want to do insurance work or full-on restoration. I found a guy who said he’d grind them off and prime them, but was very hesitant to paint them due to paint-matching issues. I said I’d buy the paint and not hold him responsible, but he never circled back with me. For all these reasons, I keep coming back to thinking that it’s best that I leave these decisions to the next owner. --The only actual hole I see on the car is a small thin line of rust, maybe 1/8” wide and 1” long, at the rearmost point where the left frame rail meets the floor. All of these spots are photographed below. --It is a VERY solid VERY honest car. Last summer I bought a MIG welder with the intent of tackling the rust myself, but I think it’s best if I don’t booge up the bodywork and, as I said, instead leave it the way it is for the next owner to make his or her own decisions. --I believe that, other than the nose and fenders, and possibly the hood, the rest of the paint on the car is original, but I don’t do paint and bodywork so I’m not 100% certain. There are a few isolated dings, and there’s a bit of weathered-in superficial rust patina at one spot on the roof near the rain gutters, but in general the paint is shiny and presents itself very well. --The trim is very good. It has correct, proper, and original old-style "ridged" emblems on the hood and trunk. The brightwork (chrome) is in varied condition. The front grills are excellent. The rest of the chrome varies between very good and good. Many of the trim strips show isolated door dings. The rear bumper, however, has a bit of superficial rust near the center of the top surface. I have a shinier rear bumper I was planning on putting on, but it’s from a ’73, has the 2 ½ mph bumper brackets, and they’re rusted in place. I looked at them, was ready to cut them off with a Sawzall, and ran out of steam. If the car doesn’t sell this fall, I’ll deal with this over the winter. --The engine was refreshed by me about four years ago. The head was redone with new rockers, shafts, and valve seals. The block received an in-car refresh. The cylinder bores, pistons, and ring lands were measured by a machinist and found to be in-spec, so the bores were ball-honed and the pistons were re-ringed. New rod bearings were installed. --The mechanical fuel injection has been completely sorted. The Kugelfischer injection pump was rebuilt by Hans Utke of H&R injection, one of the experts in the field (he just passed away). The injectors were professionally cleaned and tested. New plastic injection lines and a new fuel pump were installed (ignore the photo showing the weird black #1 injection line; it was long ago replaced). All rubber fuel lines were replaced. All slop was removed from the injection linkage via installation of new linkage rods, ball studs, and plastic sleeves. It has a manual push button to actuate the cold start valve, as many tiis do. Push the button, crank the starter with the key, and the car starts effortlessly. --An air-fuel meter is installed in the change cup to the left of the instrument cluster. The injection system has been tuned so that, at wide open throttle, the air/fuel ratio is about 13.5, and is fairly close to the stoichiometric ideal of 14.7 while cruising. This was done through a combination of tweaking the location of the half-moon cam in the “tuna can,” and turning the so-called “verboten” screw to enrich the mixture throughout the entire RPM range. The number of turns it was twisted has been recorded so that, if desired, it can be returned to the factory setting it was set at when the pump was rebuilt. --The original distributor was rebuilt by Jeff at Advanced Distributors. A Pertronix electronic ignition module was installed, driven by a Bosch Red coil and a proper ballast resistor so the entire in-line resistance is at least 3 ohms, as required by the Pertronix. --A Getrag 245 5-speed overdrive transmission from a 320i and a new clutch were installed. There is the tiniest “catch” (that’s “catch,” not “munch”) putting into second gear. I’m probably the only one who would notice it. Like everyone says, the five-speed IS really nice at lowering engine revs (and thus lowering cabin noise) on long trips, but isn’t remotely necessary around town. --The car has Bilstein HD shocks and Suspension Techniques sway bars. There are camber plates in the front, installed by a previous owner. I don’t know what the springs are; I haven’t changed them. --A set of 320i leather Recaro seats, newly reupholstered by Dave Vaarco at Aardvarc Racing, were installed a few years ago. They are still essentially dead mint. The seats are black and the interior color is blue, but the eye isn’t really drawn to the difference. I do not have the original pleated seats; they had already been removed and other sport seats had been installed when I bought the car. --The interior has a very nice vintage feel, and is original other than the 320i Recaros. The door cards are uncut (no radio holes). There is a little peeling of the silver reflective film on the accent strips, as there always is. The dashboard has a few cracks but is very presentable. The original silver paint around the three black-faced gauges is intact. The center console has the original Blaupunkt radio, and it works. The headliner and back seat are in very good to excellent condition. There is no sun/heat cracking of the top of the back seat or the back deck. The rug is in good original condition. The car has the original “bus wheel” which has a few cracks in the plastic. The clock is present but does not work. As I said, the air-fuel gauge sits unobtrusively in the change cup to the left of the instrument cluster. An oil pressure gauge sits above it. Neither are in gauge pods. If need be, one or both gauges can be removed; I installed the oil pressure gauge after I rebuilt the engine and wanted to be certain about oil pressure. --In addition to the original bus wheel, I have a black/silver Momo Prototipo wheel that looks a bit like the highly coveted Petri wheel that I can be persuaded to part with if my asking price is met. --The engine compartment is in very good unmolested condition save the Bosch Red ignition coil and the wires from the Pertonix. It is clean and pretty but not eat-off-it clean, or detailed, or restored. --I just cleaned the trunk. It also is very pretty, with the floor and side panels in very good to excellent condition. --I rebuilt the air conditioning using a new Sanden clone rotary-style compressor, an oversized condenser and fan, new hoses, and R12, and it’s the coldest a/c you ever will experience in a vintage BMW. It blows at close to 32 degrees in 90 degree weather. It was extensively written about in my book The Hack Mechanic Guide to Vintage Air Conditioning. --The heater box was rebuilt. A new fan motor was installed and the heater flaps were relined with new foam. --The water pump and hoses were all replaced when the engine was rebuilt. A new Walloth Nesch “high cooling rate” radiator was fitted last year. --The brakes were gone through. Rubber flex lines were replaced with braided stainless. --The front end was rebuilt with a new center track rod, tie rods, ball joints, and steering idler bushings. --The car is wearing E30 14” BBS basketweave wheels with correctly-sized 195/60/14 Sumitomos with good tread. I also have a set of rusty but original 5”-wide tii-specific stamped steel wheels whose purchase can be negotiated (I’ll throw them in if you meet my asking price). --I recently installed a new small gear-reduction starter motor. --I wouldn’t call the car completely rattle-free (almost no 2002 is), but it’s fairly quiet, fairly free of annoying thunks and clunks, and is a joy to drive. As I said, the car is very well-sorted; it has been to MidAmerica 02Fest in Eureka Springs Arkansas, The Vintage in Asheville NC, and BMW CCA Oktoberfest in Pittsburgh. --Forgot to say that last year I patched a hole in the muffler. If this is a problem for a buyer, we'll figure it out. --Forgot to take and post compression readings. Will be glad to do so in the next day or two. --I AM going to BMW CCA Oktoberfest in Greenville SC in October, and would consider delivering the car there. That’s pretty much it. As I said, call me at 617-365-8303 or PM me with questions.
  11. Some other information about the rockers: --Each one is numbered, corresponding to the cylinder, saying "1" on one side and "1.1" on the other, up to "4." --Each one has the number "836.9" --The date stamps are "85" or "86."
  12. I'm about to sell my "faux tii," the ratty '73 2002 parts car with a running tii engine in it I've been writing about for BimmerLife. I already found that it has a Schrick cam, but when I adjusted the valves, I noticed that I couldn't get a box-end wrench on the nut, unlike any other M10 or M30 engine I've ever owned. Paul Wegweiser pointed out that the rockers don't have the divot in the middle that stock ones do. Can any one identify them? And the valve cover has a breather hole, but doesn't have the tube protruding from the hole. The rest of the valve cover looks normal. Has anyone ever seen this? Thanks. --Rob
  13. Rob - I just finished binge reading your "Just Needs a Recharge" book, yes I was a little later to purchase it, too busy with other projects.  What a pleasure.  I've worked as a SW Eng in the auto and commercial HVAC industry for years and it was a great reminder and contained some wonderful detail for classic BMW retrofits and found it perfect for our now restoration business.  THANK YOU!

     

    1. thehackmechanic

      thehackmechanic

      Thanks! I really appreciate that.

  14. Don't know if it's a scam or a quirky seller. The price DOES feel too good to be true, as, if well-photographed, it'd probably bring $15k to $25k on BaT. But if it IS legit, it's the classic risk/reward trade-off. I lose cars all the time because I don't want to take the risk of committing sight-unseen without seeing a lot of evidence on condition. I will always default to things within driving/seeing/towing distance. Louie (the '72tii that was the subject of Ran When Parked) was the exception, but someone I know and trust looked at it for me. A few years ago I helped a local guy buy two tiis sight-unseen on eBay. The first was much worse than we expected. The second was much better than we expected. He shrugged it off, said he does this all the time, and that it sort of averages out. I just don't have those resources.
  15. If it has a tii vin with a snorkel, yes the nose was replaced.
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