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  1. Rob - I just finished binge reading your "Just Needs a Recharge" book, yes I was a little later to purchase it, too busy with other projects.  What a pleasure.  I've worked as a SW Eng in the auto and commercial HVAC industry for years and it was a great reminder and contained some wonderful detail for classic BMW retrofits and found it perfect for our now restoration business.  THANK YOU!


    1. thehackmechanic


      Thanks! I really appreciate that.

  2. Don't know if it's a scam or a quirky seller. The price DOES feel too good to be true, as, if well-photographed, it'd probably bring $15k to $25k on BaT. But if it IS legit, it's the classic risk/reward trade-off. I lose cars all the time because I don't want to take the risk of committing sight-unseen without seeing a lot of evidence on condition. I will always default to things within driving/seeing/towing distance. Louie (the '72tii that was the subject of Ran When Parked) was the exception, but someone I know and trust looked at it for me. A few years ago I helped a local guy buy two tiis sight-unseen on eBay. The first was much worse than we expected. The second was much better than we expected. He shrugged it off, said he does this all the time, and that it sort of averages out. I just don't have those resources.
  3. If it has a tii vin with a snorkel, yes the nose was replaced.
  4. Hey, folks. I don't post here often these days, but that doesn't mean that I don't use it as a reference source almost daily. I just wanted to say that, on this Saturday morning when I'm readying Bertha for the 2000-mile round trip to The Vintage, and I found last night that her rear lights were dim to the point of not being functional and not being able to find the ground location in the trunk, happiness was looking up "ground locations" here on the FAQ, finding a post that said that the trunk ground location is near the driver's side tail light, searching for it, finding it right there, finding that it was, indeed, loose, tightening it, and having the problems go away. Thanks for continuing to be the brain trust and repository of 2002 knowledge. Again and again and again. --Rob
  5. You may have seen a previous post on my tii.  We are changing out the oil and timing chains and while we are at it, the K-fischer drive belt.  With the timing at TDC, the K-fischer cam shaft is advanced (clockwise) by 30 deg.  The pulley is going to be at the correct location on the shaft as it is keyed.  Inside the case, the cam shaft leads to gears.  Could the entire shaft be in 30 deg off or is there an 'idiot-proof' solution such as a key.  Trying to figure out why it works (perhaps not at peak) 30 degs advanced. 

  6. Perfect. That was it. I was trouble-shooting the windshield wipers on another car, swapped wiper relays, and had jostled the wire plugged into it. It's working now. I never knew that was the fuel pump connection. Learn something new every day. Thanks!
  7. I'm doing some post-2150-mile-vintage-round-trip maintenance to Louie, my '72tii, when it fails to start in my garage. The electric fuel pump isn't turning. I check voltage across the two wires at the pump and there's nothing. The ground is fine, so it's a voltage problem. Fuse 11 feeding the fuel pump is fine, with voltage on both sides of it. So I check the wiring diagram and it shows the fuel pump wiring going through "31 Fuel Pump Connection" (on the left side of snippet below). Anyone know where, exactly, this is? Thanks. --Rob
  8. It's possible, but coils are usually pretty long-lived. When they go bad, they usually die completely or exhibit intermittent behavior with heat or vibration. I would set the timing, then see where you are. The timing ball can be very difficult to see through the inspection hole. You can use the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley instead, but you need an advance timing light -- a timing light into which you can dial an advance number. Then you can check the "total advance." You can dial in an advance number of 32 degrees, then rev the engine up to highway rpm -- say, 3500 -- and time it so that the TDC mark lines up with the pointer. In this way, you're setting it so that the total advance is 32 degrees. I'd be surprised, though, if it's a timing issue. When it's idling, put a finger on each of the plastic injection lines and make sure you can feel fuel pulsing through each one. If you don't feel pulsation in one line, then fuel isn't being pumped through it. If you pull the spark plug wire off that line, the engine will idle no differently. If you find that, report back. It's pretty simple to check for a stuck plunger in the pump and to free it. That's certainly possible with a tii that's sat for years.
  9. The "123 Ignition" distributor is fully electronic -- both electronic triggering and electronic advance. Folks love them. But they're steep -- about $500. The Ireland distributor has electronic triggering and mechanical advance and is inexpensive -- about $170 -- but the electronic triggering module (which is not a Pertronix; it's a different brand) appears to have a high failure rate. The Pertronix electronic triggering module is cheap -- about $70 -- and is every reliable as long as it is installed correctly, but you still need a distributor whose mechanical advance is working properly. You can paint the TDC mark on your crankshaft pulley, take a timing light, shine it on the mark, rev up the engine, and if the mark doesn't move, then your distributor isn't advancing. If it moves, then, to a first approximation, your distributor is working, in that it's advancing. How accurately it's advancing is another question; you'd need to use the timing light more carefully to tell.
  10. If you've: --Done the back-to-front cleaning of the fuel system, including the screen in the inlet to the fuel pump, the one in the Kfish pump, and replaced the canister filter --Verified that fuel pressure is at or near 29 psi --Put in fresh plugs and timed the ignition properly and verified that the distributor is advancing --Verified that the warm-up regulator on the pump extends and that the "verboten" screw is sitting on its stop --Ruled out vacuum leaks Then it's time to pull the injectors and take them to a shop to be tested for leakage and spray pattern. Any diesel injection shop should be able to test them. If they fail, that's a different question. Rob
  11. Right. So, on that link you have above, scroll down to where it says: Click here to download the manual. (actually you can just click on it right here.)
  12. Thanks everyone. Louie, the subject of the book, who I nursed home from Louisville by the skin of my teeth last February, just completed an absolutely flawless 2150 mile round-trip jaunt to The Vintage and back. Damn, man, it's reassuring that, when you spend two months sorting a car out, you can have a trouble-free trip.
  13. Do not confuse the Ireland Engineering unit's electronic ignition with a Pertronix. IT IS NOT A PERTRONIX! It apparently is common for the IE triggering unit to fail, but, again, IT IS NOT A PERTRONIX! They are two separate units made by two separate manufacturers! The only Pertronix I have had fail are those that I have miswired or had a coil and ballast resistor whose series resistance is below 3 ohms, which is explicitly warned against in the Pertronix documentation. I hate to see Pertronix get a bad rap because people think they're what's in the IE distributors. I know that you said "Pertronix type," but people consistently make this mistake.
  14. If a car feels like it is running out of fuel, it usually is, at some level. One of the hallmarks of clogged fuel filters or screens is that the car may run fine at lower RPMs, or may run fine for a while, but then, as rust packs against the screen, it'll start to falter. Often if you shut it off for five or ten minutes, enough crud falls back off the screen that, initially, the car will run fine again, until the process repeats. In contrast, bad gas or a broken injector likely exhibit the symptoms all the time.
  15. Any tii that's been sitting is subject to both the fuel going to shit and to the tank rusting and the rust clogging up the filters. It is also certainly possible that the car either has water in the gas or got a tank of bad gas, but bad fuel and rust from sitting are more likely. If I had the car here, I'd: --First check the dwell and timing and verify that each cylinder has spark. I'd probably install new freshly-gapped plugs and drive the car just to rule that out. --Remove the pickup tube from the gas tank and look in the tank with a flashlight. If there's visible rust or sediment, drain the tank and clean it. You can actually get them pretty clean, certainly way cleaner than they had been, without removing the tank; just use brake cleaner, rags, paper towels, and run gas out the drain plug. --Inspect the screen at the bottom of the pickup tube, and make sure both the delivery and return pipes are clear. I've seen both completely clogged up with tarry crud. --Remove the fuel pump and tap the inlet out onto a clean paper towel to inspect for sediment in the inlet screen. If there's no screen there at all, and if the tank is rusty, I'd replace the fuel pump, as it's probably loaded with rust inside. --Replace the canister fuel filter at the radiator. --Check the fuel screen at the Y-fitting at the front of the KFish pump. --Check the fuel pressure. It should be 29 psi. If it's noticeably low, the fuel pump may be at fault. If it's noticeably high, the pressure check valve at the back of the KFish pump may be at fault. The pumps usually work fine until they stop working altogether. --Reassemble and test. --If the problem hasn't gone away, if the tank wasn't drained before, I'd drain the tank and try it with fresh gas. --If the problem still hasn't gone away, I'd begin looking at the injectors. When I trouble-shot Brian Ach's car that died on the way to The Vintage two years ago, even though it had rampant fuel system contamination, the root cause was in fact a broken spring in #4 injector. I found it by pulling all four injectors out and disassembling them. They all were loaded with rust, but #4 had the broken spring. Once I found that #4 was bad, differences I was seeing in how the fuel appeared to flow through #4 plastic line made sense -- #4 looked different and the pulsing of the line felt different than the other three. I'm not, however, sure how reliable a diagnostic tool that is. --The KFish pump itself is the last thing to suspect, not the first. Good luck! Rob

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