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David Layton

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About David Layton

  • Birthday 12/17/1958

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  1. I need to find the correct size, label for the 12v 3w light bulb for the Euro License Lights. The parts sources only provide the BMW part #, so I need the street equivalent. David
  2. Clardy did a restyle, you can see it in the two different examples. I will have to pull up my scribblings on the Frigiking.
  3. I have a couple of Frigiking Evaporators and consoles. Before I located the Behr components, I was toying with an idea that was above my talent capacity. This would be to create a new Frigiking Console that had the maintained the dimensions of the Frigiking but in the style of the Behr using a long console layout. This would require its own shift plate as the BMW shift plate is trapezoidal and this would have to be perpendicular. However, to do this would require skills with panels and vinyl and forming a plastic front piece shift plate and vents. Not in my skill set.
  4. My tii project had a frigiking in it and I tracked dow Behr evaporator and console for the same reason. In 81 I had a 72 with th frigiking with old tech in the nose. So whatever you do get a rotary compressor, parallel condenser and new stuff in front of the fire wall. The is also that book by a guy named Siegel that I highly recommend.;) The Frigiking has two design features that may be advantages, the radio mounts high and the expansion valve is externally mounted in rear or the console whereas on the Behr you have to go inside the evaporator to replace it.
  5. I started a similar thread a few months ago, but during that time I consulted Daniel Stearn and went H-4. I ended up going with his harnesses and a pair of Koito 7" headlights which he preferred over the Cibie's. I have not arrived at the point of setting up the harness and the lights, but I will report in once it is done. I also have the LED tail light kit from Blunttech and the high mount middle brake light kit that was offered on the site that uses a Hella LED middle brake light so the SUV's may see me.
  6. Beemer vs. Bimmer. 'Beemer' is a nickname given to BMW racing motorcycles by British fans when they were racing BSA's or Beezer's. So, it was Beemer's vs. Beezer's. Bimmer is the nickname for a BMW auto. In 'high German', BMW is BEE EM VEE. In 'low German' or Southern or Bavarian, you would likely hear Bay Em Vey.
  7. This is from my '73 tii which is still on the hoist.
  8. Very encouraging. I would think that with the instrument binnacles on the Z Dash, it is a more difficult mold to process than the '02 Dash.
  9. I wonder if they could use a more sun-durable vinyl without spoiling the look.
  10. From "Dopple Wurst" early grills through to the 70's to "Beaver Teeth" 2019 X5; or from Bangled to Buck Tooth.
  11. While we have driven my 73 tii a bit this summer with the revised the ride-height, suspension and wheels tires; the motor was not quite right. Performance was down and Jacob Marley was rattling the timing chains. In late September, my chief mechanic and brother Chris decided for various reasons to pull the motor, drop the sub-frame and transmission. This was going to give us the opportunity to clean up the engine bay, revise any questionable wiring, totally clean the accumulated oil and grease and make any repairs prior to repainting the engine bay in Atlantic. This will resolve the issues around painting the engine bay when the car was to be painted this winter. (The hoist he put in his garage a couple of years back has been a great investment.) While the motor has been out, the timing chain and oil pump chain and sprocket were replaced; after the timing marks, including the K-fischer pump, were painted in yellow. We suspect that Scrooge’s late partner was rattling the oil pump chain as there was a full knuckle’s slack and back stagger in the alignment with the oil pump sprocket. The stagger was from the sprocket which had been attached with the spacer between it and the nut in front causing wear on the back side of the teeth. Chris found the correct answer on the FAQ, the spacer goes behind the sprocket and the planets were now aligned. While the motor is sitting on the stand, we replaced all of the Kugelfischer hoses with Ireland silicone items. Replacing these would have been ‘difficult’ if the motor was in the engine bay. The Oil pan was in need of paint, so it was removed, stripped and repainted as were the sides of the block. The oil pan was clean of metal and the crank looked fine. Crank and bearings looked good, so these were not disturbed. We have also attached a new Sanden 509 AC Compressor on a Hobie Dave Bracket. The AC will be new items under the hood flowing to a Behr Evaporator and Console. The car had a Frigiking unit with a Sanden compressor that had a packed up clutch on a heavy dealer bracket. As the Frigiking lines run dead center over the transmission, we are going to seal these up, clean up the metal and paint. The lines for a Behr run a few inches to the right of the heater box (also being rebuilt). We are taking many suggestions from Rob Siegel’s book and will use hose fittings on the firewall rather than running the AC lines straight through the firewall. Now to what’s behind the curtain where Carol Merrill is standing….. The old firewall padding was pulled away revealing a rust area above the pedal box that had been partially patched from behind. There is a bit of surface rust all along the firewall with bits of the foam and glue residue. The firewall matt has been the perfect sponge to hold water against the firewall for the last 45 years. I figured that somewhere in the project, there was going to be a rust surprise, here it was. Left unnoticed it would have been a nastier surprise sometime next year when the pedal box would have begun to flex. I now know why the engine was so loud. Pedal box rebuild and shift linkage kits were ordered. This will also lead to the pedals, pedal box, brake booster and support getting cleaned and painted. Fortunately, Chris has a 72tii project (0440 – Colorado) which entailed the acquisition of a couple of parts cars. One of these is a ’74 carburetor that is slowly returning to nature but the piece of the firewall above the pedal box was sound. So a patch was made with this cut of firewall flank steak and pedal box surround was cut from 16 gauge steel. And the patch is welded in and primed and surrounded in 3M paintable sealant. We also put down the sealant in all of the crevices where water likes to collect and sit on both sides. The sealant excess will be cut away and after it is painted over will blend it and keep the water out of the seams. Inner Fender cleaned up. Note the bead of 3M sealant where the inner fender and the frame rail meet. This was done throughout to eliminate the collection spots. The Firewall repaired with POR rust converter on the surface where water collected behind the firewall padding. (In the background is one of the two parts cars.) Primed Firewall. The 2 new vertical holes are for the firewall fitting for AC lines. System will use Behr Evaporator and Console. Two holes over the transmission were from the earlier Frigiking AC and these will be plugged. The Painted Inner Fender. The garage lighting and the camera flash makes the color appear lighter than it actually is. In the sunlight, the color compares well with an original Glasurit paint chip book. Engine Bay ready to sit for at least a week before we start re-assembly. We have a new factory firewall pad and the various gaskets and clips. Throttle linkage is being upgraded with one of Harry’s play-less Pull Rods, new return spring and bushings. This will also be the time to sort out the wiring and add the wires for the new air conditioning. Other items to tackle before the engine comes back include replacing the parking brake cables and the rear transmission mount. 02 FAQ Blog on firewall.docx View full article
  12. You may have seen a previous post on my tii.  We are changing out the oil and timing chains and while we are at it, the K-fischer drive belt.  With the timing at TDC, the K-fischer cam shaft is advanced (clockwise) by 30 deg.  The pulley is going to be at the correct location on the shaft as it is keyed.  Inside the case, the cam shaft leads to gears.  Could the entire shaft be in 30 deg off or is there an 'idiot-proof' solution such as a key.  Trying to figure out why it works (perhaps not at peak) 30 degs advanced. 

  13. David Layton

    David Layton

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