jerry

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About jerry

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  • Interests woodworking, 02's, gardening

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  1. M10 Front covers are a 'dime a dozen', or so they were when i was collecting parts.... S14 cranks, not so much. i'm not intending to piece together an entire S14 engine, just a stroker on an M10. i can't remember if i have a set of S14 conrods, though. i think i do... it looks like i'll be aiming for a 60mm opening. another thought about keeping the damper from the S14 pulley is that perhaps it was a benefit for the longer throw of the rods.
  2. folks, i did a search and only found passing mention of the machining requirements. there were a couple links presented but i think they expired. anyhow, i will be loosing my access to a fabulous machine shop as my company is closing my facility and leaving California. I'm staying put and will probably have more time to devote to the long sleeping 02 projects i have as i transition to a new phase in life as i get nearer to retirement age; i'm done with long commutes. it occurred to me that i should prepare one of my spare front covers for the S14 crank i have on hand. i have the S14 pulley as well so i think the best option is to leave the crank alone and modify the aluminum cover. Question: does anyone know the front seal diameter i need to enlarge the cover to? i do not have an M3 front seal available and do not know the clearance fit. thanks in advance. btw, my current distraction is a 1960 alfa romeo guilietta spider veloce .
  3. very nice writeup David. I like your division of work, ie., you get to do the writeup while Chris skins his knuckles... looks very nice. you do realize that your car is the "practice session" for the "main event" coming later?? cheers, and nice to see the progress.
  4. jerry

    Repairing a Rusty Spare Tire Well

    I think you did a great job using what you could find. the top photo shows what appears to be a hopeless 02 well but it still maintains a solid middle and the OD area. if it were mine, I'd make 3-4 patch panels and save the original well. i'd only do butt-welds and grind the welds down to match. what you did is a great alternative and more doable i'm sure.
  5. jerry

    Repairing a Rusty Spare Tire Well

    without a photo to show the extent of rust we're all just guessing. if at all possible save the original spare tire well. it takes a lot of patience and skill to make a replacement well NOT look like a garbage can lid welded in place. it is possible to use the existing well as a template as long as you can find a matching contour area that will withstand the mild planishing necessary to shape the piece into the proper contour. the BEST sheet metal material is basic metal shelves from office bookshelves or if you are lucky enough to find metal utility carts. the stuff is low carbon and easily formed. otherwise go to the local pick and pull and find the oldest vintage door, hood etc., you can find. newer cars can be thinner stock of higher strength steel; not as readily formable.
  6. jerry

    Alpina Intake Manifold

    FWIW, the later Alpina A4 setup used a cable, not linkage like the original Ti's. your PHH's look very nice. even the cheesehead screws look unmolested.
  7. jerry

    Rebuilt Getrag 265/5 Dogleg Gearbox

    without the bell housing, i believe this was originally for a Jensen or some such. correct me if i'm wrong...
  8. jerry

    High priority rust repair?

    if my spare tire well looked like this one did before the wholesale transplant of the bottom, i would not have cut the whole piece out. instead, i would have only cut out the worst parts and use only enough of the replacement panel to patch it up. the repair can be much more discrete that way.
  9. jerry

    Larger strut tube welding

    if you use a tig welder you'll have to use a small cup for the Ar shielding gas and you may not have enough clearance. you'll have the same access problems with a Mig gun. Go old school and use Oxy-Acetilene gas torch with mild steel filler metal and flux. you need to prep the pieces better than what is shown. square the edge flat and add a small bevel to both pieces that will be filled with weld metal. getting the two pieces aligned prior to tack welding is critical. it needs to be perfectly straight AFTER welding if you hope to get a strut insert inside. i'd want to fashion a jig to hold it straight during welding. weld in intervals to mitigate thermal expansion issues. a stiffener piece or two on the outside welded in place may provide a bit more strength. it is, after all, your front wheels you want to hold onto.
  10. i'm very jealous. is that a backyard autolift you have, Ed? i see foliage nearby.
  11. yes, indeed it is... sadly, my access to it will be coming to an end as the aeroengine overhaul shop i work in will be closing down in 18 months to move to Indianapolis because it is too expensive to run this type of business in California. i'm staying put, btw. The subject car of this post is now near St. Louis, Mo to be completed by a former owner who had this exact car in the late 70's. i moved it along to make room for a 1960 Alfa Romeo Guilietta Veloce spider. i have another 02 in my 'to do' list, however.
  12. C: there's enough BMW logos on the car as it is... trunk, hood, hubcaps, steering wheel and keep the original profile.
  13. jerry

    Who remembers these days?

    aw yes, i remember those days. i liked to slog around in the mud in the personal attacks/political section back in the day where we could avoid 'virtue signaling' to the www. it was a novelty in its time, but that time has passed.
  14. josh, put me in line for the air cleaner cover if the other guy passes. it looks familiar. is it? i'm working on your car's twin right now. same color, 2575914. cheers.
  15. I have been on-again, off-again working on a mid-year model 71 02. this is the first 02 where i encountered glue/sealant used on the windshield gasket, front and rear. although it was a bear to remove it really saved the metal underneath. anyhow. this car has the early pinch strip used on the early cars. this pinch strip was not used on later cars; squaretails for certain. i can see the benefit of using it to hold the headliner in place, more than just hoping the glue holds. later cars have tiny clips that i haven't been able to locate. i've installed windshields without this strip and it seems to make the rubber lip easier to place while using the pull-string during installation. i seem to recall that this earlier method had a different p/n for the rubber gaskets. is that true? are the gaskets useable with or without this pinch strip? the last time i tried to use windshield sealant i ended up smearing all over the opening. it made a mess of the paint. from the cracked appearance of the original weatherstrip i was certain i'd see a bunch of rust. it was a pleasant surprise to see such clean metal underneath. the gasket shrunk and cracked but the sealant did its job keeping moisture away.