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jerry

Solex
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  1. jerry

    2760445

    i spent several years saving 2760440 from certain death. i did all the hard work of rust repair only to pass it on to a former owner from the 70's who found me on this website years ago. i moved it along when i acquired an even more rusty alfa romeo guilietta spider veloce. i am confident that it will someday ride again or at least, never be allowed to decompose as it did. i wish you had photos of 2760445 so that i could compare the 'state of stress'.
  2. i'll be bringing two used ones to the Brisbane swap this saturday. not new but you are free to look.
  3. do the measurements outlined in the overhaul manual. there's a good diagram showing the measurements. do this and you won't have to guess. as i recall there's a fair bit of tolerance allowed. i've always been able to merely reuse my shims after verifying i'm within spec.
  4. aw yes, i remember those days. i liked to slog around in the mud in the personal attacks/political section back in the day where we could avoid 'virtue signaling' to the www. it was a novelty in its time, but that time has passed.
  5. josh, put me in line for the air cleaner cover if the other guy passes. it looks familiar. is it? i'm working on your car's twin right now. same color, 2575914. cheers.
  6. I have been on-again, off-again working on a mid-year model 71 02. this is the first 02 where i encountered glue/sealant used on the windshield gasket, front and rear. although it was a bear to remove it really saved the metal underneath. anyhow. this car has the early pinch strip used on the early cars. this pinch strip was not used on later cars; squaretails for certain. i can see the benefit of using it to hold the headliner in place, more than just hoping the glue holds. later cars have tiny clips that i haven't been able to locate. i've installed windshields without this strip and it seems to make the rubber lip easier to place while using the pull-string during installation. i seem to recall that this earlier method had a different p/n for the rubber gaskets. is that true? are the gaskets useable with or without this pinch strip? the last time i tried to use windshield sealant i ended up smearing all over the opening. it made a mess of the paint. from the cracked appearance of the original weatherstrip i was certain i'd see a bunch of rust. it was a pleasant surprise to see such clean metal underneath. the gasket shrunk and cracked but the sealant did its job keeping moisture away.
  7. looks like the earlier variant used with single barrel Solex carbs. if you pull it out it likely will have what appear to be thermocouples protruding into the exhaust ports. i've taken them out and blocked the forward and aft holes and used them as a 'poor man's' tii cast manifold. these are also the manifolds that came with those very cool cast aluminum heat shields. OK, i stand corrected. nevermind my explanation. i did not know that the cast heat shield was used on later cars...
  8. i have an unused Garret turbo and a couple turbo-type exhaust manifolds i'll include as a package deal for $400 if there is any interest i'll bring it to Brisbane. i bought it at the 1st Brisbane show several years ago, but i'm not likely to use it. my loss is your gain. PM me if interested.
  9. question: can this pvc material take and hold staples to attach the original vinyl? is glue a better alternative, perhaps?
  10. do you have a MIG welder and are you handy with thicker gauge sheetmetal. if so, it is a relatively easy repair to do a nice job if you take the time to cut out the rot and butt weld a patch in place. the frame rail is pretty straight in shape to begin with so you don't have any complex curves to deal with. it looks like the area aft of your rust has crumbled in from jacking (i suppose). that might suggest that it is rusty too and weakened. i would wire-wheel the entire frame rail from the rust hole aft. cut out the rust hole area and then take a mechanic's mirror and see what you can find inside. you can cut a piece of hardwood to use as a template to reform some 14-16 gauge sheet metal to shape. i'd probably want to make my welds along the side of the frame rails and not the bottom surface, but that's just me.
  11. i've salvaged a couple quarter panels off square tails before. there's a fair bit of troublesome reinforcement to get through by the tail light area. much easier on a roundie. also, the reinforcing panel glued to the quarter panel (delaminated in your case likely) would make it hard to reshape in place. i'm betting if you were willing to do most of the panel beating or supply a good one to a body guy after liberating your panel, you could save a big amount of labor cost. removing the panel requires about a devoted Saturday to remove the rear quarter window. remove the aluminum trim by drilling the rivets out. peel the pinchweld from the b-pillar, remove interior panel and rear seat. remove rear bumper. best to remove the rear window too if you'd like to avoid fussing with a larger butt weld down low, ie. make the joint along the c-pillar. get a handful of 1/8in and 5/16in cobalt drill bits and start drilling out the spotwelds all along the bottom edge, b-pillar, wheel well and carefully use a dremel like die grinder to cut through the handful of tackwelds along the way. wire wheeling the spotwelds can help locate them. use a very stiff spatula and hammer to break the spotweld ligament apart as you pilot with the 1/8in drill and try to drill through the top layer only with the 5/16in drill. liberating your bashed quarter panel will make it easier to reshape any underlying structural parts underneath. and, you might be able to actually save your quarterpanel. i've been trying to find that ever elusive free Saturday to do this very same job to save a '71 02 i have on hand. it was hit from the PS tail light and pushed the quarter forward and bowed it. all this rain hasn't made it any easier to get started. 76's are really good solid 02's. i liked the one i had but the smog thing is a bummer for CA. i'm not trying to scare you away from the job, in fact, what i described above doesn't take much skill, just patience and willing attitude. good luck.
  12. you sir, have stumbled onto a very nice car. your brightwork is plenty bright as it is. so is your paint. apply a wax, but be easy on using an electric polisher. avoid it actually. those single barrel solex's are a wonder to have on a sorted engine.
  13. i can only suggest that you post the VIN in case they try a re-paint in a new color and it's passed along. i'm sorry for your loss. is it time for the rest of us to put a transponder, ala, Lo-Jack, on our vintage cars?
  14. thanks so much, there is no better car forum site available. period.
  15. i've got 2760403, only 9 VINs away. but your's is in much better original shape, mine, not so much. nice score no matter how it looks under that paint.


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