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    woodworking, 02's, gardening

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  1. what a beautiful car NOT designed by Pinanfarina. it presses all the right buttons for me (except the purchase price, 😞 )
  2. you've been given good advice so far so there is not much more to add. practice doing butt welds with a MIG welder. sheetmetal from old metal cabinets, washing machines or shelving is a good source of mild steel repair metal. as for your spare tire well, it looks like the damage is primarily on one side. make a patch panel, or two or three using the intact side to shape your patches. a cheap panel beater pad can be made by filling up a zip-lock baggie with sand (about 2/3rds to 3/4 full) then wrap it all up using gorilla tape or similar tape, till the baggie is completely wrapped and no exposed baggie. it will work just as well as the fancy leather ones sold on Eastwood. youtube is filled with helpful methods of working sheetmetal. have fun.
  3. i had a beautiful set of tobacco colored vinyl from the rear seat bench in perfect condition that i was storing to use to recover some front seats i had. rats chewed into them for nesting material and destroyed the vinyl. and no, they did not chew along the periphery; they went straight to the center panels making it worthless for anything. i share your hatred for rats and began an 8 month hunt for them with rat traps. i got around 25 large rats over that time span. i fed the carcasses to the crows and seagulls.
  4. jerry


    i spent several years saving 2760440 from certain death. i did all the hard work of rust repair only to pass it on to a former owner from the 70's who found me on this website years ago. i moved it along when i acquired an even more rusty alfa romeo guilietta spider veloce. i am confident that it will someday ride again or at least, never be allowed to decompose as it did. i wish you had photos of 2760445 so that i could compare the 'state of stress'.
  5. i'll be bringing two used ones to the Brisbane swap this saturday. not new but you are free to look.
  6. do the measurements outlined in the overhaul manual. there's a good diagram showing the measurements. do this and you won't have to guess. as i recall there's a fair bit of tolerance allowed. i've always been able to merely reuse my shims after verifying i'm within spec.
  7. M10 Front covers are a 'dime a dozen', or so they were when i was collecting parts.... S14 cranks, not so much. i'm not intending to piece together an entire S14 engine, just a stroker on an M10. i can't remember if i have a set of S14 conrods, though. i think i do... it looks like i'll be aiming for a 60mm opening. another thought about keeping the damper from the S14 pulley is that perhaps it was a benefit for the longer throw of the rods.
  8. folks, i did a search and only found passing mention of the machining requirements. there were a couple links presented but i think they expired. anyhow, i will be loosing my access to a fabulous machine shop as my company is closing my facility and leaving California. I'm staying put and will probably have more time to devote to the long sleeping 02 projects i have as i transition to a new phase in life as i get nearer to retirement age; i'm done with long commutes. it occurred to me that i should prepare one of my spare front covers for the S14 crank i have on hand. i have the S14 pulley as well so i think the best option is to leave the crank alone and modify the aluminum cover. Question: does anyone know the front seal diameter i need to enlarge the cover to? i do not have an M3 front seal available and do not know the clearance fit. thanks in advance. btw, my current distraction is a 1960 alfa romeo guilietta spider veloce .
  9. very nice writeup David. I like your division of work, ie., you get to do the writeup while Chris skins his knuckles... looks very nice. you do realize that your car is the "practice session" for the "main event" coming later?? cheers, and nice to see the progress.
  10. I think you did a great job using what you could find. the top photo shows what appears to be a hopeless 02 well but it still maintains a solid middle and the OD area. if it were mine, I'd make 3-4 patch panels and save the original well. i'd only do butt-welds and grind the welds down to match. what you did is a great alternative and more doable i'm sure.
  11. without a photo to show the extent of rust we're all just guessing. if at all possible save the original spare tire well. it takes a lot of patience and skill to make a replacement well NOT look like a garbage can lid welded in place. it is possible to use the existing well as a template as long as you can find a matching contour area that will withstand the mild planishing necessary to shape the piece into the proper contour. the BEST sheet metal material is basic metal shelves from office bookshelves or if you are lucky enough to find metal utility carts. the stuff is low carbon and easily formed. otherwise go to the local pick and pull and find the oldest vintage door, hood etc., you can find. newer cars can be thinner stock of higher strength steel; not as readily formable.
  12. FWIW, the later Alpina A4 setup used a cable, not linkage like the original Ti's. your PHH's look very nice. even the cheesehead screws look unmolested.
  13. without the bell housing, i believe this was originally for a Jensen or some such. correct me if i'm wrong...
  14. if my spare tire well looked like this one did before the wholesale transplant of the bottom, i would not have cut the whole piece out. instead, i would have only cut out the worst parts and use only enough of the replacement panel to patch it up. the repair can be much more discrete that way.
  15. if you use a tig welder you'll have to use a small cup for the Ar shielding gas and you may not have enough clearance. you'll have the same access problems with a Mig gun. Go old school and use Oxy-Acetilene gas torch with mild steel filler metal and flux. you need to prep the pieces better than what is shown. square the edge flat and add a small bevel to both pieces that will be filled with weld metal. getting the two pieces aligned prior to tack welding is critical. it needs to be perfectly straight AFTER welding if you hope to get a strut insert inside. i'd want to fashion a jig to hold it straight during welding. weld in intervals to mitigate thermal expansion issues. a stiffener piece or two on the outside welded in place may provide a bit more strength. it is, after all, your front wheels you want to hold onto.
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