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John76 last won the day on February 6

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About John76

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    San Francisco Bay Area
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    Motorcycles, Sailing, Cars, Travel.

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  1. Esty, The wiring diagram you have does not show the resistor in the green wire to the coil +, or the black/red from the starter. Here is a sketch of the wiring (note: this is for a '76).
  2. OK....wrong resistance? A non-resistor coil does not need +12v once the car is started. I recall a coil will last almost indefinitely on 9v to fire the plugs. However, during cold starts, a hotter spark is needed. The simple solution is to use a non-resistor coil with a resistor wire (or external resistor and relay). This will give you about 9-10 volts to the coil during normal operation =cool running, long life! During starts, the resistor wire or external resistor is bypassed, allowing +12v to the coil for a hotter spark. This is done with the black/red wire connected between the +terminal on the coil and the #15 terminal on the starter solenoid, or the cut-out relay for the external resistor. Or....use a coil with a built-in resistor and rely on other means to help with the cold starts (high compression, EFI, fancy enrichment devices, etc.). I hope someone can chime in on the trade-offs between too much and too little resistance in the ignition circuit.
  3. Too much resistance and your car goes much slower. You may need a front air dam and a rear spoiler....
  4. +1, +1! You should not have a plug and socket for the D+, D1, and DF terminals on an internally regulated alternator. Only 3 connections needed for internal VR: 1) B+ (big red) to battery + 2) Ground (big brown) 3) Blue wire to charge light on instrument pod (pin#12. John
  5. Thank you Tom for the corrections. I will take my "old" notes with a grain of salt. Just because it's written in ink doesn't make it true 😬. Can't believe the internet wasn't even around back then....no FAQ or online info on anything! Sheeesh, where did the time go? John
  6. I put a thermocouple next to the distributor and read 148.8 degrees F when stopped, and 114 degrees while driving.
  7. Could be...there is a tab on the ignition switch (P) that is only "hot" when the ignition is off. I have considered attaching a red blinky to this as a "fake" theft deterrent. Pull the instrument cluster to see what it's attached to. Another common use for a warning light is a "low fuel" indicator. Check your fuel sender for a third wire. Also check the coolant sensor for an extra wire. Could be the warning light for a "hot" coolant condition...usually settable on some VDO sensors. Or....could just be a gummy drop that someone stuck to your dash?
  8. Hummm. I'm just going by the dizzy notes I took in '78. Must have been info from the Roundel, or local BMW guys? Not sure....but it is written in ink! The 008 you have pictured looks different from the one on the right. Could it be a knock-off?
  9. This thread is getting a bit strange...but interesting! I looked through my notes from waaaay back (late '70's) and found the following distributor part numbers: 0-231-180-008 This is NOT a Bosch part. 0-231-151-008 Original Tii dizzy with 30 degrees of centrifugal advance. 0-231-188-002 Updated Tii dizzy (more expensive parts). Changed for smog laws. 0-231-176-059 '76 Calif. manual trans dizzy. 0-213-170-164 '76 49-state manual trans dizzy. 0-231-170-214 '77 320i with 34 deg. total advance. 0-231-176-084 '78 320i w/ vac advance and retard. Same or better performance than Tii dizzy (008 or 002). BTW...does anyone know what the letters mean after the distributor number? These are a few that I have....just don't know what they mean: JFUR, JFR, JFUD, JFU, etc. John
  10. Most likely! Also check the #12 fuse. This provides +12v to the electric choke and idle cut-off solenoid.
  11. You can get the following Bosch rebuild kit from the BMW parts department....however, you will only need a few of the many parts.
  12. Here is a sketch of the parking/running lights for a '76. Hope it helps you discover the cause of the blown fuse.
  13. The trick is to really clean the glass. Windex or alcohol and water doesn't do it. I used Dupli-Color Grease and Wax Remover and it's on tight.
  14. Be sure to disconnect the battery before sticking a screwdriver into the back of the ignition switch!
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