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About John76

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  1. The top terminal on the starter (#15) only supplies +12V to the + side of the coil when the starter is activated (ign. switch in START position). The reason for this is to supply a full 12 volts to the coil during cold start cranking . Otherwise, the coil is only getting about 10-11 volts while the engine is running (12 volts thru a .9 Ohm resistor wire). Full voltage is not needed during normal running....the coil will last almost indefinitely when operated at less than 14 volts! I've heard many folks powering the coil with full operating voltage, and complain that they burn out their coil every 5k miles. Connect your AFR gauge to the #3, #4 or #12 fuse. This will power the unit only when the ignition is ON.
  2. Here is the instruction sheet for the Solex DIDTA. Might be a bit faded (43 years will do that), but the float level for '74-'76 BMW is 23/32" (18mm) from the bowl cover surface to the upper edge of the bead on the float. (see fig. 1). Solex DIDTA Instruction Sheet.pdf
  3. Mike, The passenger side plug is used to trigger the fog light relay, not power the fog light (hence only one plug is needed).It is connected to the #86 terminal of a 30A relay. The #85 relay terminal is connected to the on/off switch which turns the fog lights on when it is grounded. #30 relay terminal is connected through a fuse directly to a +12V source....ideally the battery, so it won't stress the ignition switch or fuse box. #87 relay terminal(s) are connected to each fog light (right and left), and each light is individually grounded. This procedure will allow the fog lights to be turned on ONLY when the low beams are on (the trigger from the plug)...just as BMW intended! Hope this helps. John
  4. Just for fun, try disconnecting the brake light switch. It could be bad, pulling the voltage down for the EFI unit when you step on the brake. A bad (weak) ignition switch will do the same under load.
  5. Open....lever all the way back (arm parallel to top edge of bracket) is closed.
  6. You should tape the oil, coolant, and head bolt holes to keep the crud out. Also make sure there is no oil in the bolt holes...clean out thoroughly with cleaner and an air gun. Clean and shine those piston tops carefully, and vacuum the carbon deposits around the top. Don't forget to seal the exhaust studs on the head to prevent oil leaks. Great job for a newbie....you are now a graduate! John
  7. Yeah, that's the typical lb./in. number for our cars. I used the wrong terminology....sorry. I was referencing the stock spring numbers: What do the above numbers mean?
  8. Fronts are 11 7/16" free length, rated at 828 lbs. Rears are 9 3/16" free length, rated at 820 lbs. Ratings seem to be high (compared to stock springs), however these were the figures given by Autopia. Sorry, don't have the wire thickness or number of coils...but if you want them, I will wiggle under the car! Ride is firm but comfortable, even on long trips. I have 19mm sway bar in front, and stock 16mm in back.
  9. Interesting thread! Thought I would throw my 02 cents into the dog pile. My square tail came with Green/Blue front springs with a 13mm spacer to make the center of the headlights meet the min. 24" Federal standard. Grey/White rear springs (heavy duty) were used with 33mm (2-dot) upper perch pads. I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein P30-023 front, B46-803 rear street setting (not sport) shocks, the ride height increased by about 3/4"....looked funny. I removed the 13mm spacer in the front, and the car was too high in the rear and not low enough in front. I installed a set of Autopia sport springs (11 7/16" front, 9 3/16" rear) without the 13mm front spacer. Now the front was too low, and the rear looked just right. I reinstalled the 13mm spacer up front, and now the car is level. With 185/70-13 tires, I have 23" ground to fender lip on all 4 corners and 22 1/2" to the center of the headlights. I reinstalled a spare set of 13mm spacers on top of the shock towers just because I think it looks better than "nuts on paint". I had to counter-sink the mounting holes to get a good bite on the studs.
  10. Nick, The picture of your heater valve shows it is installed backwards. Arrow should be pointing toward the cabin, not the engine bay. John
  11. Yahoo! I'd save $100 on the cost of a smog check every two years. The value of my car might even go up a few bucks!
  12. I thought smoking weed was acceptable behavior in Colorado...No?
  13. Here are some pics of the CSB heat shield (#9 on the parts diagram), and the shields for the guibo, head pipe and steering gear. These are necessary to direct the hot air through the engine bay and protect the rubber and greased fittings (steering arm). Shields should be readily available at scrap yards....I seldom see them actually installed correctly on our cars.
  14. There is plenty of room to reach the center bearing nuts without removing the resonator. You should also be able to lower the shaft enough to remove it from the guibo. To prevent premature failure of the guibo and center bearing, be sure to install the heat shields to keep the heat off the rubber parts. These attach to the mounting bolts (center shield removed for these pictures). PS: My center bearing has been in service for >100K miles with no signs of wear.
  15. Hi Randy, I have a '78 R100S that I have had since new. Excellent bike! The R90/6 is also a great ride. Very easy to work on and parts are readily available. Let me know if you have specific questions... John

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