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John76

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John76 last won the day on April 11

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    Male
  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Sailing, Cars, Travel.

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  1. Yep...Green/white is usually a switched +12V (fused) and a Red/white is a constant +12V (fused). Could be either for the buzzer.
  2. A bit hard to see the color code on your cut wires. My guess would be: Brown/red, Brown/white, and Red/white. If so, these were connected to the annoying warning buzzer for the ignition lock and seatbelt... that most folks cut out and tossed after one day of ownership.
  3. Nah....Littleeagle28 is in the UK, so it might be a hedgehog in the header.
  4. Did you check the exhaust system? Could be a mouse in the muffler, or a rat in the resonator.
  5. How is your Voltmeter connected? I found several "switched" +12 power sources under the dash, but they all read lower than the battery voltage when the car is running or not. I suspect these sources have too many things to energize, and therefore draw the voltage down. I tapped into the green/blue wire on the rear defroster switch. This is the only load on the #3 16A fuse and uses a big (thick) green wire to the ignition switch (terminal 15). I rarely use the rear window defroster, so I get full system voltage from this source. The voltage regulator (external or internal) for the alternator will vary the running voltage based on the battery need. After starting, the battery voltage will drop and the VR will charge at a high rate (14V). After driving (charging) for a while, the VR will settle down to about 13V...depending on how many consumers (lights, heater, wipers, etc.) you have energized. Attached picture is voltage at idle after a long, continuous drive (no restarts, lights, heater, wipers, or even the radio).
  6. Here's a sketch from my notebook. Mine is a '76, but the wiring for the ignition/ coil/ distributor should be similar.
  7. Mine has a small hole in the heater valve to prevent air pockets from blocking the coolant flow. This might explain the slightly warming of the air when the heater vent is open and the coolant valve is closed.
  8. The poor guy misunderstood the concept of making your car "lighter".
  9. Is that a 3-socket plug? Might be the clock cable to the back of the instrument pod. 3 wires: Red, Brown, and Grey
  10. I always have the correct smog equipment installed and operating perfectly for the bi-annual CA Smog Inspection. During the last test I had to show the smog guy where the thermal reactor was....cuz he had never seen one and didn't know what to look for. I should have pointed to the resonator, which he probably thought was a cat converter! PS: This kid had never seen a carbureted BMW....he wasn't even born until the mid '90s.
  11. Guilty as charged! However, I also have a Tii manifold for "off road" driving.
  12. As Steve (Conserv) mentioned, the air guides were only used on the cars equipped with the thermal reactor (all '75 and CA '76). You might be able to find one from this group of cars. Although they had nothing to do with emission controls, most took them off when converting to a Weber card and ditching the Winter/Summer thermostat box on the snorkel.
  13. Mine's a '76 California w/4-speed....and I live in CA*. Considered by many as the worst of the best! Thanks for the diagram. This is the one I use, and even enlarged each section, taped it all together, and now have a 22" x 44" wiring diagram I can actually read. I even whited-out the Tii and Automatic components, and added fog lights, dual horns, clock and extra gauges so the next owner will not be totally "in the dark" tracking down any electrical gremlins. John *Yes, we are currently watching the leaves, trees, hillsides and houses turning the traditional Fall colors...as they burst into flames.
  14. Sorry for the confusion and misinformation. Not all square-tails share the same wiring or components, as illustrated by the '74 USA diagram provided by AustrianVespaGuy. From now on, I'll stick to what I know....'76 2002 4-speed California model. 😐 John
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