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John76

Solex
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John76 last won the day on July 28

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    Male
  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Sailing, Cars, Travel.

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  1. Mike, I went with a mechanical for that very reason...270 degree needle sweep and more accurate and easier to read than the electrics with their wide range and small needle swing. Have to install them properly and carefully. I have had no problems (leaks, etc.) in the last 45+ years. I still have the pressure sensor light on the dash...but by the time that comes on, you are < 7 psi.
  2. I installed VDO volt, amp, and oil pressure gauges in my '76 when I first bought the car in 1976...my first "modification". The amp meter was totally useless....and the wiring was dangerous, so it went "into the pool". Now I just have the voltmeter and oil pressure.
  3. I might be overthinking this whole thing...not hard to confuse me! The vapor separator type filters and/or the BMW fuel return valves have a calibrated "leak" of gas back to the tank. This orifice is never closed. I originally thought otherwise until I took the thing off my car and tested it for flow...with and without the vacuum applied. What I found is that with vacuum, the return line flows more fuel back to the tank. No vacuum, and it still returns fuel to the tank....but much less. To summarize: 3 situations 1) Fuel pump pressure 6 psi. No return filter or valve = 6 psi to carb. Fuel dead-headed at float needle and stays in the line because of the one-way check valve in the fuel pump. Fuel in the line before the fuel pump drips back to the tank, flows back faster if there is an air leak in the fuel line....or the fuel heats up and evaporates. Like holding your finger on a straw after it is full of fluid. 2) Jeep style vapor separator filter between the pump and carb. Calibrated orifice on the return line (typical 0.060). Same 6 psi from pump now = 4 psi to carb and 2 psi to return line. Larger restrictor = lower pressure to carb (lower flow too). 3) Vacuum operated fuel return valve. Pump pressure 6 psi =2 psi to carb 4 psi to tank when vacuum is high (eg: idle/cruise). 4 psi to carb and 2 psi to tank during low vacuum (WOT). The whole exercise is to find the proper size restrictor in the return line to match the pump psi to the desired carb psi. The factory vacuum valve return orifice does not appear to be changeable. I found a clever idea on a hot-rod website that uses a hose barb threaded to accept different size jets. Fuel return barb with restrictor jet.odt
  4. Thanks Tom. Is that a plastic 1/16" restrictor, or is that just the metal that looks like plastic? How much fuel pressure do you have to the carb with this filter and the stock pump? If too much, it might be fun to enlarge the restrictor to increase return flow and lower pressure to the carb. Aaaah...more things to play with! John
  5. Is the return line nipple the same size as the intake and outlets? Picture looks smaller. I noticed in my info gathering exercise that these "vapor separator style fuel filters" come with or without a restrictor orifice on the return. Jeep has both types. The one without the restrictor is used on the cars that have the restrictor on the tank return fitting. My favorite is still the stock fuel return valve. Best of both worlds (IMO). Less restriction at idle (high vacuum) = more fuel flow to the tank, and more restriction at WOT (low vacuum) = more fuel flow to the carb. These filters/ fuel return valves were designed to keep fuel flowing to keep the gas and pump cool, and to slowly (via the restrictor) drain the pressure out of the carb supply line. This helps prevent the dreaded vapor lock on a hot restart. Another benefit is longer fuel pump life. Does not "dead-head" the fuel at max pressure against the float needle. Also makes the electric pump (if used) much quieter.
  6. You may want to put a rubber isolator on that fuel filter to keep if from cracking on the alternator. Fuel spray and 14 volts are not very compatible. See what Tom ('76mintgrun'02) did to his Jeep filter. Re: Hose clamps. Snug is good....too tight can cause cracks and leaks.
  7. Wish folks would post their recipes with their stances. Lot's of really interesting looks...but no info on how to achieve the desired stance.
  8. I have a '76 with Bilstein shocks (street setting) and Autopia sport spring. I kept the aluminum spacers (13mm) on the front struts and the 2-dot (33mm) damper rings on the rear. With 185/70-13 tires (32 psi) my fender lip is 23" from the ground. I removed the aluminum spacers in the front, but then replaced them since IMO it was too low.
  9. You don't need the speed relay. It just cracks the throttle when the revs are high and your foot is off the gas petal.
  10. Eric, Nice clean job! Do you have a P/N for the Mercedes rubber mounts? Thanks, John PS: I love your battery belt.
  11. I could never get the Jam Engineering carb adapter to work with my stock air cleaner. Never quite lined up and was always too tall, and therefore did not sit properly on the mounting brackets or the rubber bumper for the fuel pump. I took another approach. Used a round aluminum mounting flange and drilled, cut, and filed it to fit the bottom of the rectangular Redline air cleaner that came with the Weber carb kit. I adjusted the height of the aluminum flange to rest on the underside of the original air cleaner, while it was in the proper mounting position on the stock, unbent air cleaner support brackets. Once the height was established, the Redline base was J-B Welded into place. I used HVAC foil tape on the underside and inside of the air cleaner before fastening it to the aluminum flange with stainless machine screws and fender washers. Doesn't look so good from the inside, but it is rock solid, no more cracks, and just as easy to remove as the original Solex design.
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