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mgben

Kugelfischer
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Valparaiso, IN
  • Interests
    British and German sports cars

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  1. post in WTB section and @coloincaalpine or someone will return your request for good used.
  2. Well... it is in the correct section but painful. Live in the past like our cars.
  3. I had not so easy a time finding a 228, I think I paid about $200 on ebay for a ground unit, ready to go. (My Original had ring gear issues). Having it checked out at a flywheel / driveshaft machine shop the grind job needed to be redone. So another $100 in. Hindsight just get an Ireland lightweight and be done.
  4. I am bordering on your issue, but just adding headlight relay. You could do a distribution block using a fat wire from your starter feed, leaving just the standard setup at the battery. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/power-distribution-products/ I am always worried about having things fused, but OEM doesn't fuse till farther downstream. The best you can do for battery post still can look busy. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/battery-terminals-boots-and-adapters/aftermarket-battery-terminals-and-adapters/
  5. Well @MoBrighta is the bulb guy it seems. Are you going ECode or do you need legal lighting? I went with the relay system @jgerock got from Susquehanna Motorsports in PA (rallylights.com) Good photo of the relay kit is within the club link Good to deal plenty long and good wire. (I think I got my H4's Hella's from them). https://www.rallylights.com/lighting/headlamps/l/7-round-conversion Lots of people like Cibie's https://www.busdepot.com/CIBH4 but the FAQ link talks about them If you want to DIY your own relays, I purchase from https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/ and got a crimper on amazon for the bare connectors that click into the relay plugs. You sure your later model car does not have multiple relays already? I recall some good content lately on relays. This is an older post
  6. I agree with Jim the Kooglewerks items are cool or you could do the kick panel speakers. I much prefer my sound coming from the front. (just me). If you want a trick parcel shelf item the kick panel guy makes this that would actually point sound towards you https://www.boltonbliss.com/product/hat-tray-speaker-enclosure
  7. I have not driven my 2002 very far, but it is a whole different animal than the 91 318is I owned for many years. My opinion is I love my 2002 so if you enjoyed E30, buy the best one you can find, and rescue that and still have upgrade capability. If I get an open parking spot I will seek out an E30 or E46 for my collection.
  8. What do you guys do with your eurolights? Use as DRL? You can always go with the prince of darkness just kidding https://jollyrogersmotors.com/store/p/423-Lucas-H4-Headlamp-Pair-New.html My MGC has CIbies very nice lamps. IMO.
  9. I think I used WURTH HHS same as my door latches. It is not like the white lithium that hardens. second of 3 links no photo... the 2000 is renamed I went with HHS Plus (HHS K seems great too but I like the creeping factor of the plus).
  10. Liqui Moly Classic 20-50 for used motor, BMW RM European had decent price. Then I read some less than flattering info online, Bob the oil guy? Will do VR-1 next. Bought dino VR-1 for my higher mile MGB, and used Brad Penn in MGC. and thinner Brad Penn in rebuilt MGB motor. I didn't know Rotella T had high ZDDP.
  11. I was told by the forum that unless you are thinking of an M20 swap that the lower plate is overkill for the street. The factory welds on the subframe were very nice. I did the LH mount reinforcement and seam welded the control arms like this.
  12. Did you get your @AceAndrew Cunifer lines yet? @calw or Andrew taking it a step further - the lines into the front wheelwell is it important which line goes to which caliper inlet? From Andrew I would imply that the rearmost line through the wheelwell would end up to the lower port on the Caliper. True? s. Which caliper ports feed from the front vs rear of the Master?
  13. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/suspension-and-steering/ Also good reading http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/index.html And yes from your other post the welding of the motor mount reinforcement I found easiest out of the car. (but opens more work for steering shaft joint etc.) And like said I did the Idler arm bushings. Used an air chisel to drive them out and the online procedure all thread install.
  14. Just mock up the new mount in with the filler piece and work it out in your head what you will do. see that link and @NYNick photo You can like I say just go without a washer, I used a lock nut OEM BMW. And Loctite. The nut prevailing torque feature was probably not engaged fully, also considered a 10.9 shallow height nut, but I prefer loctite over a wave washer.
  15. You definitely can go limited slip, you have the preferred 6 bolt side covers. Contact Aceandrew as well as read up on it. It all just takes money,
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