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About mgben

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  1. Nice car! There are more names in Chicago .. I am trying to remember the one I heard at a club event of a magician on these cars. A nice guy in Michigan is https://classicdaily.net/home-2/home/ in Bay City Michigan with lots of swaps and turbo's under his belt. https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDailyLLC/ Where did you find your car? Grand Rapids?
  2. Well for my car probably the same pulls up 26117518304 on REAL OEM I also use ECS Tuning to get the BMW Part number. if you plug that number into google you can see many options, Amazon has GMB Brand, and one offering says OEM and lists GMB Pelican parts used to have them now only meyle https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/26117518304.htm?pn=26-11-7-518-304-M158 I like RMEUROPEAN,com they sell the Meyle. https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/26117518304-MFG155.aspx (RM you can ship brake rotors and motor oil very cheaply one set fee). The japanese brand GMB may be preferred unless you can track down where Meyle made. But for under $12 its hard to argue. See the huge price differences here https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/127956/Universal-Joint-26117518304/
  3. I used KBS (a spin off of POR15 on the small items and then Eastwood chassis black over everything. How old is the first post? I thought my site was broken. Lots of changes in the world and peoples vehicle stable since 2004.
  4. Thanks for all the replies! I will wing it, yes the over arch by shock towers are still there, they could be rocker area or like said where the fuel line etc passes.
  5. Well my car has been apart too long and I am forgetting the details. The rear seat is out and both quarter trims out (to replace beltline trim etc). I am going back together and don't recall where the factory stuffed these bits. Approx 2 x 2 x 2.5 inches each. My over wheel arch foam is still intact. don't recall where these came out of. Non sunroof car 1973 base model. (I know ... have pics of most things in the engine bay.. got lazy on the interior). Thanks.
  6. Also a home made tool (have yet to do mine)
  7. Interested in your goal here, I bought a new trap mirror from Blunt, has BMW markings etched in.
  8. I had mine all apart and out, Make sure you still have good safety wire at the lower end from previous owner if you do it in place. The Gland nut took much effort for mine. Heat and wrench were not going to work and could risk stripping the threads. So I made slices in the gland nut with cut off wheel just to the verge of touching the threads, about 3/8 apart and then on the top to connect those slits to allow me to peel that small section away with an air chisel, then repeated the process180 degrees away, then air chiseled the gland nut off. The hammering action of the tool got it to rotate. Hard to explain! New Bilsteins have nuts provided. Good site here http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/26front_rebuild.html
  9. I totally missed the OP has a Tii I saw the photos of air cleaner cars in the thread. Good to know I am on the right track selecting an group 47 for my carb model. I like the thought of AGM since I seem to store cars a bunch and AGMs lose charge a bit more slowly. I am lucky (?) to have an early 07 Cooper S with no extra wiring on the negative terminal... i.e. need to program.
  10. I have used the Pollak brand rotary switches on my MGB's but they have a bulkhead and hidden batteries. The quick disconnect style here seem easy, I was just going to do a battery maintainer but I forgot about the mice chewing wires while in storage. Good idea to disconnect and with the ones below or the Frankenstein switch you can have your hardwired tender in place. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/battery-disconnect-switches/
  11. I own a 2007 cooper S Turbo I replaced my battery with a DEKA AGM (purchased through a local DEKA distributor) The overall length of that group 47 is less than the OEM battery and I am considering one for my car (non tii) to get the AGM. If you go to DEKA website catalog and select that year cooper with 1598 cc you will get the turbo model and dimensions. I may go this route or the 26R . The Dead OEM Battery I had a hard time tucking into the tray as a trial due to the length; which is why this replacement seems better. DEKA 9AGM47
  12. Spreading the load on the rear floor pans is how mine is now and shown in these links. http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/23dropping_rear_subframe.html Easy and works well
  13. If you need to hire it done I had a good experience with Susquehanna They have a tech who is an E28 guy and also have lengths needed for our cars. You can choose one or 2 fuses and the grounds are home run back to the source not grounded at each light like some systems. My set was plenty long. https://www.rallylights.com/hl282-sms-upgraded-headlamp-wiring-harness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html If you are a do it yourselfer this place has cool stuff, inline waterproof fuse holders and good relays. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/
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