mgben

Kugelfischer
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About mgben

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Valparaiso, IN
  • Interests British and German sports cars

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  1. I had mine all apart and out, Make sure you still have good safety wire at the lower end from previous owner if you do it in place. The Gland nut took much effort for mine. Heat and wrench were not going to work and could risk stripping the threads. So I made slices in the gland nut with cut off wheel just to the verge of touching the threads, about 3/8 apart and then on the top to connect those slits to allow me to peel that small section away with an air chisel, then repeated the process180 degrees away, then air chiseled the gland nut off. The hammering action of the tool got it to rotate. Hard to explain! New Bilsteins have nuts provided. Good site here http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/26front_rebuild.html
  2. I totally missed the OP has a Tii I saw the photos of air cleaner cars in the thread. Good to know I am on the right track selecting an group 47 for my carb model. I like the thought of AGM since I seem to store cars a bunch and AGMs lose charge a bit more slowly. I am lucky (?) to have an early 07 Cooper S with no extra wiring on the negative terminal... i.e. need to program.
  3. mgben

    Battery Isolation Switch

    I have used the Pollak brand rotary switches on my MGB's but they have a bulkhead and hidden batteries. The quick disconnect style here seem easy, I was just going to do a battery maintainer but I forgot about the mice chewing wires while in storage. Good idea to disconnect and with the ones below or the Frankenstein switch you can have your hardwired tender in place. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/battery-disconnect-switches/
  4. I own a 2007 cooper S Turbo I replaced my battery with a DEKA AGM (purchased through a local DEKA distributor) The overall length of that group 47 is less than the OEM battery and I am considering one for my car (non tii) to get the AGM. If you go to DEKA website catalog and select that year cooper with 1598 cc you will get the turbo model and dimensions. I may go this route or the 26R . The Dead OEM Battery I had a hard time tucking into the tray as a trial due to the length; which is why this replacement seems better. DEKA 9AGM47
  5. mgben

    Jacking/Jack stand point

    Spreading the load on the rear floor pans is how mine is now and shown in these links. http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/23dropping_rear_subframe.html Easy and works well
  6. mgben

    Headlight problem

    If you need to hire it done I had a good experience with Susquehanna They have a tech who is an E28 guy and also have lengths needed for our cars. You can choose one or 2 fuses and the grounds are home run back to the source not grounded at each light like some systems. My set was plenty long. https://www.rallylights.com/hl282-sms-upgraded-headlamp-wiring-harness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html If you are a do it yourselfer this place has cool stuff, inline waterproof fuse holders and good relays. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/
  7. mgben

    Pedal box hole

    @worzella Great pics here : http://www.my2002tii.com/july2003-3.htm to go with the forum article
  8. mgben

    Fuel return line?

    I also have a 73, you originally would have had item 14 (of schematic in link) that takes excess fuel and sends it back to the tank.
  9. mgben

    Bought My First E30!

    Springs Shocks and M3 Control Arm lolly pop bushings up front Be careful on spring choice do lots of research. (Forget which I selected back in the day) If you get annoyed with 14 inch rims and tire choices go for Kosei K1 Racing from tire rack. (oh and by the way very jealous)
  10. My teeth are bad at the typical 180 degrees apart areas. Worse than yours.
  11. Jim, I am using an 4 speed trans Mike, My ring gear is very bad in the 2 spots, so bad indexing is off the table. On the hunt for a flywheel have a lead in NJ and Ebay in Cali. all the others are not 228. Ben
  12. That is an option? I am going to a late model starter (not S14 starter) when I re-install things. My clutch disk mic'd at .390 so about .030 wear compared to hals post
  13. Thanks for all the great answers and photos! Yes a new ring gear would solve that issue. It is nice to see the pics of the Sachs disk show it totally flat without air grooves (unlike what some sales sites show) That way my lack of grooves noes not indicate wear, it was how it started life.
  14. Anyone have a 228 mm diameter new clutch disk handy to measure the "as new" thickness? I just pulled my clutch for an inspection and possible change while engine and suspension out and my disk looks very good, with much of the material left before the rivets. Just need someone with a new one and a micrometer for a comparison. (that and a new flywheel due to ring gear issues) Car is new to me, so I don't know miles on the clutch. Ben
  15. Interesting... E21 or E28? Cant find the dayton car anymore