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    Valparaiso, IN
  • Interests
    British and German sports cars

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  1. Agree with @0257 Tinnitus!
  2. For my 38 38 I removed the intake to do the grinding. I have a peanut manifold and it still too a LOT of work to make a smooth transition for the 38 butterflies. I added a 6mm phenolic spacer (debate on here about spacer but I wanted to add it). https://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=99900.624 or pay more on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARB-SPACER-6MM-THICK-FITS-WEBER-38-38-DGS-DGAS-DGES-DGMS-FREE-SHIP-/192096681116?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10 It had flexoid gasket paper on both sides.
  3. 3mm as @wegweiser posted found some at Ace Hardware and used a small ignition wrench and socket 7/32 (close to 5.5 mm)
  4. thanks @2002iii I carefully got it apart and only one rusty nut was on the retaining rod. (will size it up) Soaked everything in Evaporust and it is looking good. Thx
  5. I am 6ft 2 None of those pics are mine. @Ken has the cleanest mounts, look laser cut. I am going to mount mine sort of the same distance back as original (seatback position to the B Pillar. IMO the front will bolt near the hump front and you will need a lower leg foot behind the hump. You gain legroom when you lower the seat. If you are going all in, get the brackets gone then mock up your seats. If you live in California, I would seriously get Aardvark Recaro's and be done. No welding needed. I would love an E30 318is to go with my seats!!!
  6. Keep in mind removing the stock brackets is a PITA and you are right by the fuel line etc. The welds and spot welds are too good. And the minute it did it, there was a thread about how valuable 2002's are and to go Recaro's. I loved E30 sport seats in a prior car and like you wanted comfort and tall driver. The first one you will find is this: This one got rid of the hump but only for if you are doing floorpan rust: I am going more like this. This one is hard to find, but a cool install , you definitely want to shift seats inboard all you can. This one shows how high they are on the stock mounts. @tsteinermentions his own brackets (I don't think I have those diagrams). @Ken really really helped me out and his install below is so clean. Where is my install you ask? LOL Still welding trunk and shock towers.
  7. @AceAndrew is that for after a trunk mounted low pressure pump? (or in your case your amazing E30 style in tank hybrid item) @Son of Marty great points. that sender screen is plenty fine. (just refreshed a post on that) Hope the OP gets what he needs from this not just me!
  8. Quick question, how do you pull the screen to start the process? The nice brittle plastic has me here asking.. do I push pull or pry the tabs? (kind of like VW Elec connectors, it can get dicey) Thanks in advance
  9. Good info before or after. My PO had it before, a cloudy old plastic item. The K&N @estylinked is on my short list, but is "only" 40 microns. The HENGST See through ones are pretty small, made in ISRAEL, and dirt cheap. https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/13321277497-MFG45-V5478.aspx I may do WIX metal just for a larger size, and use the HENGST on something else, or they make a good one to use after a long hibernation. I think I will go before the pump with a WIX 33032 metal case filter, since I have the BMW Return valve intact (the jeep filter 3rd connection). Plus it is 20 microns, dislike the unseen though. UGH
  10. Several years ago I found a bosch internal regulator proposed for our cars. (I forget the seller) Similar to this. https://www.ebay.com/str/bnrpartsalternatorsandstarters?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 The red section is thicker because I got a 110Amp I think.
  11. What they said. Also mentioned here. I believe there is a terminal taped to the harness by the heater (in plastic like your fog light one under hood). (I could be thinking of the dash light bulb lead for the Auto Trans though)
  12. Lots of options, I would add some fixed camber plates, (like in link: Get things centered best you can and go to an alignment shop. See how you did, Then IF you want peace of mind have them gently tack weld in your huge slots from your car to the camber plate. Not a lot of weld, just to settle your head that it wont shift. THEN spend your money for the strut brace as a cover up and to really lock it in. I used PT (Prevailing Torque) flange style nuts BMW Brand I believe to make a nice look. Plus they are self locking and the flange helps cover more area. (like these from RMEuropean)
  13. I worried about mangling my covers and ruining the seals but I was able to get them tightened. ECS has photos and price for each. I think my Blunt supplied center rod was Moog, It survived installation WITH the caps. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/seal-washer/32211101374/ https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/seal-cap/32211108363/
  14. Mike, @Mike Self so the newer clips are improved? There are posts where people complain about them and now source the original style. There was even an @AceAndrew link I think. Of course I am fully stocked with the new style and am now rethinking that and may go to the black original style. https://www.maximillianblog.com/post/a-proper-rocker Here are some forum items I saved, no particular order just linking for you to read. Also about the seal strip install. This explains seal install best http://www.my2002tii.com/2006/june2006/index.htm
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