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About mgben

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  1. Also a home made tool (have yet to do mine)
  2. Interested in your goal here, I bought a new trap mirror from Blunt, has BMW markings etched in.
  3. I had mine all apart and out, Make sure you still have good safety wire at the lower end from previous owner if you do it in place. The Gland nut took much effort for mine. Heat and wrench were not going to work and could risk stripping the threads. So I made slices in the gland nut with cut off wheel just to the verge of touching the threads, about 3/8 apart and then on the top to connect those slits to allow me to peel that small section away with an air chisel, then repeated the process180 degrees away, then air chiseled the gland nut off. The hammering action of the tool got it to rotate. Hard to explain! New Bilsteins have nuts provided. Good site here http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/26front_rebuild.html
  4. I totally missed the OP has a Tii I saw the photos of air cleaner cars in the thread. Good to know I am on the right track selecting an group 47 for my carb model. I like the thought of AGM since I seem to store cars a bunch and AGMs lose charge a bit more slowly. I am lucky (?) to have an early 07 Cooper S with no extra wiring on the negative terminal... i.e. need to program.
  5. I have used the Pollak brand rotary switches on my MGB's but they have a bulkhead and hidden batteries. The quick disconnect style here seem easy, I was just going to do a battery maintainer but I forgot about the mice chewing wires while in storage. Good idea to disconnect and with the ones below or the Frankenstein switch you can have your hardwired tender in place. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/battery-disconnect-switches/
  6. I own a 2007 cooper S Turbo I replaced my battery with a DEKA AGM (purchased through a local DEKA distributor) The overall length of that group 47 is less than the OEM battery and I am considering one for my car (non tii) to get the AGM. If you go to DEKA website catalog and select that year cooper with 1598 cc you will get the turbo model and dimensions. I may go this route or the 26R . The Dead OEM Battery I had a hard time tucking into the tray as a trial due to the length; which is why this replacement seems better. DEKA 9AGM47
  7. Spreading the load on the rear floor pans is how mine is now and shown in these links. http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/23dropping_rear_subframe.html Easy and works well
  8. If you need to hire it done I had a good experience with Susquehanna They have a tech who is an E28 guy and also have lengths needed for our cars. You can choose one or 2 fuses and the grounds are home run back to the source not grounded at each light like some systems. My set was plenty long. https://www.rallylights.com/hl282-sms-upgraded-headlamp-wiring-harness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html If you are a do it yourselfer this place has cool stuff, inline waterproof fuse holders and good relays. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/
  9. @worzella Great pics here : http://www.my2002tii.com/july2003-3.htm to go with the forum article
  10. I also have a 73, you originally would have had item 14 (of schematic in link) that takes excess fuel and sends it back to the tank.
  11. Springs Shocks and M3 Control Arm lolly pop bushings up front Be careful on spring choice do lots of research. (Forget which I selected back in the day) If you get annoyed with 14 inch rims and tire choices go for Kosei K1 Racing from tire rack. (oh and by the way very jealous)
  12. My teeth are bad at the typical 180 degrees apart areas. Worse than yours.
  13. Jim, I am using an 4 speed trans Mike, My ring gear is very bad in the 2 spots, so bad indexing is off the table. On the hunt for a flywheel have a lead in NJ and Ebay in Cali. all the others are not 228. Ben
  14. That is an option? I am going to a late model starter (not S14 starter) when I re-install things. My clutch disk mic'd at .390 so about .030 wear compared to hals post

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