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  1. If you have a '74 - '76, the 3-pole connector (under dash next to hood release cable) could be used as a 12V TRIGGER for the #86 terminal on a RELAY for an electric fuel pump. The 3-pole connector has a Grey/Blue wire connection for any low-amp 12V light that you want dimmed (by twisting the headlight switch). The middle connection is Grey/White for an 12V trigger for an extra light relay. The 3rd plug is a Green/White that is a 12V source when the ignition is on. However, the wire gauge is very small, and not designed to carry large current loads. It comes from the 8Amp #12 fuse on the square tails, which is loaded with the electric choke, the coil, seat-belt warning light, and instrument panel. The electric fuel pump should have at least 12AWG wires for the + and Ground connections. John PS: The electric pump will not prevent the E-gas from evaporating from the fuel bowl, but it will fill it up faster without cranking the beast to the brink of battery failure. Use a switch or button as a primer.
  2. 10 is the Horn relay. 11 is the Low Beam headlight relay. 90 is the High Beam relay. The legend (index) is on the Left Side of the PDF file. All numbered items on the diagram are listed in numerical order. John PS: I enlarged this diagram and printed on 8 pages that I cut and taped together for a giant, readable, poster-size diagram.
  3. Plastic capped??? Here are the original relays from my "76. High beam, Low beam and Horn. All 3 are Hella 4RA 002 566 15. Made in Germany.
  4. Here is the tool kit from my '76. Never used!
  5. Another ground to check....this worked for me. Put an extra ground wire on the sender. The sender shares a common ground with the tail lights. I noticed my fuel gauge would bounce when I stepped on the brake or used the right turn signal. The extra green wire in the attached picture cured the problem.
  6. Here is the original Tii heat shield for comparison.
  7. Easy to replace the 3 studs on the exhaust manifold if you can't get the nuts off. Much easier to remove the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds in place. Without the downpipe, you can lift the whole enchilada by hand from the right side….without the need of a hoist or removing the hood.
  8. What kind of coil is in the car? I believe some of the 6-fuse cars had an external resistor and a relay located near the distributor. Check the wire(s) on the + side of the coil. How many do you have and what are their color codes? A Black/Red wire gives +12 V from the starter motor (tab #15) to the coil during cranking only. A clue that you do not need an external resistor. A Clear yellow wire is a resistance wire (~ 9 Ohms) from the ignition circuit. The presence of this wire confirms that an external resistor is not needed. Start the car and check the voltage at the + coil. Should be about 11 volts....Not 13+ (unless the coil has internal resistor).
  9. The original "bus" wheel on my '76 was 400mm diameter and had a removable center section that always fit poorly. I replaced this with a 380mm 320i wheel. Nice difference...smaller (but not too small) and better feel and look (IMO). Used the 320i horn ring, which was modified by straightening 1 of the 2 brass tabs and inserting a conical battery spring to give a smooth and silent contact with the stock 2002 horn ring.
  10. I checked the voltage on my '76 (after driving at highway speeds for 30 minutes). New, fully charged battery, rebuilt stock alternator and stock mechanical voltage regulator, with no loads (lights, wipers, radio, etc.). 900 rpm (idle) = 13.30V 1000 rpm = 13.31V 1500 rpm = 13.31V 2000 rpm = 13.30V 2500 rpm = 13.29V 3000 rpm = 13.28V If the battery voltage is low (from sitting, just after a cold start, or extra loads) the voltage reading is about 13.50 - 13.60 at all rpms. Once the battery has "recharged", the voltage settles down to about 13.30V at all rpms. John PS: I agree with Toby....replace or rebuild that 40+ year-old starter! Big difference for < $100.
  11. The top terminal on the starter (#15) only supplies +12V to the + side of the coil when the starter is activated (ign. switch in START position). The reason for this is to supply a full 12 volts to the coil during cold start cranking . Otherwise, the coil is only getting about 10-11 volts while the engine is running (12 volts thru a .9 Ohm resistor wire). Full voltage is not needed during normal running....the coil will last almost indefinitely when operated at less than 14 volts! I've heard many folks powering the coil with full operating voltage, and complain that they burn out their coil every 5k miles. Connect your AFR gauge to the #3, #4 or #12 fuse. This will power the unit only when the ignition is ON.
  12. Here is the instruction sheet for the Solex DIDTA. Might be a bit faded (43 years will do that), but the float level for '74-'76 BMW is 23/32" (18mm) from the bowl cover surface to the upper edge of the bead on the float. (see fig. 1). Solex DIDTA Instruction Sheet.pdf
  13. Mike, The passenger side plug is used to trigger the fog light relay, not power the fog light (hence only one plug is needed).It is connected to the #86 terminal of a 30A relay. The #85 relay terminal is connected to the on/off switch which turns the fog lights on when it is grounded. #30 relay terminal is connected through a fuse directly to a +12V source....ideally the battery, so it won't stress the ignition switch or fuse box. #87 relay terminal(s) are connected to each fog light (right and left), and each light is individually grounded. This procedure will allow the fog lights to be turned on ONLY when the low beams are on (the trigger from the plug)...just as BMW intended! Hope this helps. John

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