John76

Jangun,
The missing male connector on the tach is where the black wire from the distributor is attached.
Your tach will not work if it does not get the signal from the dizzy.
The other missing male connector, as far as I know, is not needed. I have one on my '76 dash and it is not a ground, and I cannot find anything that it should be connected to.
John

Pablo,
You only need to attach the + wire from the new 3rd light to only 1 taillight.
Here's the connection for the side marker light and ground wire.
 

 
 

Here's what that 3-wire connector looks like under the dash.
Connection 7-C is the green/white wire that is +12V only when the ignition is ON.
Connection 7-B is the Grey/white wire that is +12V only when the headlights/parking lights are ON.
Neither of these will provide power on the Accessory position of the ignition switch (R).
 
Here's how I would hook up your amp:
1) Run a wire from the female connector (radio plug) on the hazard switch to the back seat location for your amp.
2) Plug this new wire onto the #86 tab of a 4-pin 12v 30A relay.*
3) Run a 10 or 12 gauge red wire with an inline fuse from your trunk-mounted battery (+) to the #30 tab on the relay.
4) Use a 10 or 12 gauge red wire from the #87 tab on the relay to your new amp (+).
5) Find a good solid ground location under the back seat and connect to the #85 tab on the relay and your amp (-).
 
This will power your music system when the ignition is on the accessory mode (radio) and the driving mode (ignition on).
 
* Always good practice to use a relay on large power consumers e.g. power amps, fog/driving lights, big horns, etc.
 
#7 3-wire connector under dash. Not good for amp/radio.
 

 
 

Jeff,
Your '75 and my '76 CA are identical. The original Bosch black coil has a 2-ohm primary resistance and is used with the 0.9 ohm resistor wire for a total of 2.9 ohms. This is needed for protecting the points in a stock ignition. The solder joint connecting the green wire (from the "hot" side of fuse #12) to the resistor wire is in the blue sheath running across the firewall and is located at the center point (near the hood lock ). If the IE dizzy w/ electronic ignition module requires at least a 2-ohm coil, the black coil can be used, but there is no need for the resistor wire. 
Here's a sketch of how I wired my PerTronix ignition (same as IE w/ red and black wires).  I also included pictures of the connections to the stock black coil. I left the resistor wire in place in case I needed to revert back to points. Ha...no way!
Hope this helps.
John
PS: Will you be at the Brisbane event on Saturday?
 

 

 
 

JB Weld is your friend. 
Scrub that divider clean with a brass brush and light sandpaper.
Apply JBW to fill in the pits.
Sand and polish. 
The aluminum casting is usually OK on the inside. For future protection, wrap some Teflon plumbers' tape around the spigots before installing the hoses.
 

 
 

Yes.
You can also power the coil and PerTronix from fuses #3 & #4 (linked)...if you have a square-light car.
Check the connectors on the distributor. These tend to fail internally due to the rocking motion of the engine.
 

Yes.
Don't drive your 2002 in the snow.

I found a wiring diagram for euro-spec square-lights.
Trace the Brown/black wire from the #5 pin on the dash connector to see the two wires /one female connector for the choke.
@Henning deserves a gold star  🏅
 
1973-on_BMW2002ColorWiringDiagram.pdf
 
 
 
 

No, the outer nipple on the canister is the one to cap (if not connected to the intake).
The middle nip is the one from the vapor tank and fuel tank.
 

Goes to the ignition switch buzzer ... which you can find in your neighbor's pool.

Check that the pins on the dash pod are clean and the plug is securely seated.
 

Absolutely, positively!
The dull surface emits a greater amount of infrared @ 8-14 microns than does a shiny surface at the exact same temperature.
This is called "Emissivity" and is dependent on the material, surface, temperature and wavelength among other things.
Result is the temp of the dull surface will be much higher, and closer to the true temp than the shiny surface. 
Solution: Put a dab of flat black hi-temp (BBQ) paint on your shiny pipes, large enough to fill the FOV of your IR sensor. Then measure the paint dabs. 
 

 

Is your '72 a European model or was it delivered to England as a US spec car?
6 or 12 fuse?
Here's the schematic for a 12-fuse USA "roundie" (round taillights).
The right and left side turn signals and flashers are on two different fuses (#5 for Left, #6 for Right). 
Are your turn signal lamps all LED? If so, they need a special flasher unit to work like the incandescent flasher.
Hope this helps locate the problem.
 
BMW 2002 USA 12Volt 12 Fuse RoundTailight.pdf

"All of a sudden" changes, especially shaking at idle, could be a vacuum leak. Check all your hoses. These tend to deteriorate over time, get brittle and fall off ... often in places you cannot easily see. Don't forget the brake booster and check valve.
Also check the fuel tank vent system. Remove the cap when idling to see if anything changes.
Noisy valves and low compression tend to be gradual changes over long periods of time...not suddenly.
Good luck,
John

Matt,
The original black Bosch coil is 1.9 ohms plus the resistor wire (0.9 ohms) gives a total coil resistance of 2.8 ohms.
If you keep the Bosch coil, be sure to bypass the resistor wire. 
PerTronix recommends a 0.6 ohm coil for the Ignitor II with NO resistor.
John

Well ... I was close.
It's the bracket for the EGR valve on the earlier cars.
 

Or consider an electric booster pump in tandem with the mechanical.
The mechanical pump has a built-in check valve. You can test by blowing into the pump outlet ... should not blow.
Are you using a fuel return valve?  This will keep a small amount of fuel constantly circulating back to the tank to help prevent vapor lock. Also, the addition of a check valve at the fuel tank helps keep the line full in case the fuel pump check valve leaks and siphons gas back to the tank.
 

 

There is a panel that goes behind the center console and a panel that fits under the glove box.
 

If the relay "clicks" when the horn buttons are pressed, then the easy way to check the horn is to measure the voltage on the #87 relay terminal. Should be 12V when the horn is pressed. If it is, then you need to remove the front left grill to access the horn.
Clean the contacts and the ground point. If still no "honk", then disassemble and clean the horn innards.
If no voltage on #87, then replace the relay.
 

 

I highly recommend using the authentic BMW OEM windshield gaskets.
I replaced my front seal and lock strip last year.
Glad I spent the extra $$$ for the oem gasket @ 2 x the price of the ill-fitting aftermarket parts.
Easy install and totally watertight with no wind noise. Perfect!
Purchased gaskets and lock strips from Steve at BluntTech.  Installed by Bart at The Resto Shop.
John
 

Oh...where to connect (not where is it). Sorry!
The Green/white wires are in the blue bundle that snake through the engine bay from the fuse #12
See attached sketch of the wiring pathway.
 

It's the plug for the wiper motor.

Compress the slave to allow easy cleaning of the seat on the lever arm and the ball socket inside the bellhousing. 
Coat these contact areas with a heavy grease. I even added vinyl tubing on the spring ends thinking was a source of the annoying "click" when releasing the clutch. Amazingly smooth and silent now!
I lived with that "click" for years assuming it was the slave cylinder on its last leg (or rod?).
 

 

 
 

Not used for anything. 
I put plugs on any unused holes just to keep the dirt out.
The bottom arrow in your photo is an internal fuel filter screen...not often cleaned, although it should be.
 

 

Threw the calipers on it .... inches.