So I got my intake back... in one day. I think he is getting a little excited to see this thing going. Some more picks. I thought that there may be an interference problem with the coolant pipe that comes out by the carb, but it is on an angle and will not interfere with the TPS sensor on the EFI.
I realized after the mock-up that the fuel inlets will have to be around the front since the throttle lever needs to hang over the side to work. This is something I needed to commit to right up front because the flange and adapter are offset. I tried flipping it around and nothing lined up. Perhaps I could mod the throttle lever to work on the other side, but I feel that the lever rotation towards the firewall will make it easier to put together a linkage. Also If it ends up not working, It will be saleable.
I had to order a new water diverter, I could feel the pitting on the inside of the pipes, so it is just a matter of time before it pushes through all the way, and I have a leak.
I also ordered a linkage kit for a Link manifold. I thought it was the most flexible option I have at this point, although I am not willing to let go my beautiful heim jointed linkage just yet. (silky smooth)
I had the port on the intake drilled and tapped for the 3/8 npt coolant sensor, It should be ok, but I will double check. I could be wrong, but it looks like a standard GM unit. I had the other vacuum ports for the emission hoses welded shut as well.
I had the intake ports matched to the head. I had read that had helped. Also, I ordered a 1 1/4" flex-hone, to help smooth out the casting in the intake. I am not taking it down all the way to a polish, but just smooth it out a bit.
Now back to the stupid heater box. So dam fiddly, I will be glad once it is in. Every time I think I have all the cracks fixed, I find more. It should be in by Monday... make that Thursday or whenever... The weather is gorgeous here in Vancouver, and I will be spending as much time as I can with my family.
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Hey I was wondering if there is a trick to get the hand brake cables to work when you upgrade a 2002 to 320i rear brakes. I tried first with the stock cables and found them to short. I bought 320i cables which are longer overall but the Bowden tube is also longer and cables still appear to be to short. Am I missing something ??? Any help would be appreciated .
Removed the cluster, removed the trim rings, masked and painted the trim rings with chrome spray paint.
Cleaned the glass, reinstalled everything and reinstalled the cluster.
I give credit to Swiss Tii for the inspiration for the project.
So I quickly realized that the adapter for the Holley to Weber is for an approximately 36MM bore, the Sniper is 40mm bore, no biggie, I have to get the intake off and hogged out, so I will get my guy to make it bigger at the same time. I am pulling off the intake tonight (hopefully) to get my guy to work on it tomorrow.
The height seems ok, the EFI with the adapter is about 10CM to the air cleaner mounting surface, I measured the Weber to be a bit over 11CM, If I were to include the adapter I use, it would add about another CM on top of that because my adapter sits proud of the lip of my 32/36. So air cleaner clearance seems ok.
So it is kinda like putting a 40x40 DGV Weber carb... The question will still remain if it will flow properly at idle. Because the Sniper is synchronous and the 32/36 is progressive, It will be that more fun to tune.
Here are some measurements of the height of the sniper vs a regular 32/36. Enjoy, I will post some pre and post pics of the intake.
In an attempt to expedite the changeover to the Sniper, I want to pre-drill a fitting. Can anybody add to what is mentioned in the forums?. I am thinking in the housing going into the head...... Is everybody ok with that? or do we have hose people as well?
I would love to know.
There are at least 5 pictures of Vern in the October 2018 Roundel Pittsburgh Oktoberfest coverage. The most prominent ones are for the Concours. As some of you will recall, Vern took 2nd in the Classic Super Clean Class.
Finally got around to starting the wiring of the 2402TI. The speedway kit I picked up was nice and fairly straight forward. Spent a few days trying to really plan out where everything was going. Then I learned that the kit really works well with a GM column connector. That got me to thinking about if i could get rid of a U joint with a longer column. Sure enough I can! so now staring down the prospect of redoing my steering system I thought it wise to pause for a bit and make sure there is nothing else I would change at the same time.
The drivetrain is the part that I have questioned more in the past year than just about anything else. I have to put in rack and pinion and build a massive tunnel to fit the ecotec. With that said I now have a giant engine bay with a 2.4l 4 cylinder. The other options out there may be too good to pass up.
Option 1: stay the course, lighter but also lower horsepower
Option 2: pick up a junk yard LS and a th350. Not the most engaging to drive but the most HP for the least amount of money. This would simplify my coolant plumbing and driveshaft.
Option 3: 5.0L/T5 this is the cheapest option due to having friends with left over parts. Probably as heavy as the LS and only ~40hp more than the current ecotec. This would at least be a manual trans.
I am a big data entrepreneur in real life, so this has got me thinking about the data coming from the engine and how its interpretation results in the adjustment to the air valve and the injectors.
I have read the manual. The first time I was was completely sober, along with the second and third time... the fourth time... not so much. It seemed to sink in the fourth time around a lot more. The way that this system allegedly manufactures the digital version of real-life parts of a carburated system is fascinating, like a choke, accelerator pump, the prime you get when you set the choke. It is also interesting how it accommodates physical anomalies in the engine as it warms.
I haven't quite got my head around the learning algorithm, and how it can be dialed in, overlays etc... I think I may need to dust off a big Bordeau that I have been holding onto for the past 15 years and load up on a nice rib steak from my favourite meat shop (no offence to the vegans of which there are a lot in Vancouver) and settle in.
I am about to re-do my heater box, and since the cooling system is open, I think I will drill and tap the housing. The cooling sensor that comes with it is 3/8 NPT, with adapters to 1/2 inch if needed.
A long time ago I got the 11mm manifold bots from Ireland engineering, which I will use when I reinstall the manifold and the coolant diverter.
Pictures to come, but much more likely a video, I have felt that the GoPro in my house has been underutilized.
Sniper 2BBL EFI Manual.pdf
I realize that it has been quiet lately. Progress has been pretty slow on the car, mainly because I've been swamped with school. I have also been waiting for my fabricator to clear some space in his garage to tackle the projects I have coming up. However parts have been steadily trickling in, and I'm hoping to get cracking in the next few weeks. As always, maybe the next post will be more eventful, but here's what I have for you now.
I purchased a right rear shock tower from Restoration Design. After some probing, it looks like this is the only full piece that needs to be replaced in the rear. The rest can be safely patched. At least that's the hope, as with any rust there is always more than you think. So I may be ordering even more sheet metal here shortly if things go wrong. But regardless, this is in and will be grafted into the car soon.
I also noted that I have been having cooling issues. Well, this should solve that. I purchased a Scirocco style radiator from JEGS that has a considerably thicker core. It has about the same dimensions as the current radiator otherwise, but there will be some minor duct work, a considerably larger/more powerful fan, and obviously the added... girth. I also picked up a Mishimoto oil cooler, as well as the stock E30 325is oil filter housing/cooler lines. This is more of an insurance policy, but I figure this car needs all the help it can get. After speaking to @tonytony002, he gave me some valuable advice on how to properly cool the M20 down. I'll be running a 13 inch pusher fan, a lower temperature thermostat, and the fan will be triggered at the thermostat housing. That should do the trick.
This will all be tied into a new tube front end. 2002s require bracing up front when they are cut for M20 swaps. This was never done, so the car lacks some structural rigidity. The new tube front end will add the rigidity back in, as well as give cleaner mounting points for the radiator and oil cooler.
Finally, some damage report. I had an RS hex cap fly off on the freeway the other day. Somehow, beyond all human understanding, the waffle stuck on the wheel for 30 miles. I also had the passenger side knee trim fall off. I still have the trim, but it looks like the clips are just old and failed. So I have to order some new clips to get that on now. Neither of these are huge deals, but it's a bummer to have the car suddenly look so shabby. The above is the last known photo of that hex cap, before it peaced out.
There has been some interior progress as well. Keep in mind, things get worse before they get better... I think. So far mostly everyone has not liked this choice at all. I'm certainly not expecting anyone here to like this decision either, but bare with me. I do have my reasons. I dyed my rear seats over the weekend. You may remember that they were this very odd green/brown combination. Let me start by stressing, this was not factory. Someone redid these seats at some point during the car's lifetime. They also never intended to rock the green vinyl, I'm not 100% sure what the story was but there are obvious signs that they used the green vinyl to reupholster the seat and then dyed it a matching saddle brown. Areas that did not get direct sunlight still had some of the brown dye showing.
Highlighted there you can see traces of brown dye, faded out over the years.
A lot of people moaned that this was "very 70s" and I should have kept it. It is also "very ugly".
In order to dye the rear bench, I did some research and discovered SEM marine vinyl dye would do the trick. I have found other 2002 owners who have done this with great results, and I figured if it's good enough to restore seats on a boat, it's good enough for a non-functional rear seat in a 2002. This is not spray paint, but specific product for this purpose. I do have to stress that the back seat in my 2002 will never have passengers. It's purely for aesthetics at this point, I have the seat belts tucked under the seat and any weight over the rear like that would likely cause the car to rub. There is also a chance the back seat will be removed entirely in the future, but more on that later.
Bad picture, but the vinyl prep was key in all this as well. Cleaned and softened the vinyl for dye.
I love the results. It actually needs another coat, but I ran out of dye before I could finish. It should be in today, so I'll be giving the whole rear bench another coat and that will finish off any light spots. The black doesn't rub off when you touch it, and shows very nicely.
You can see some light spots that need touch up here.
I hate preemptively defending my decision on this, but I have gotten a lot of shit for doing this. For some reason, a lot of people loved the green and brown. I really felt like I was sitting in a circus tent, and it was by far my least favorite part of the interior. Sahara Beige has grown on me quite a bit, but no amount of time would help me come to terms with the baby poop green rear seat. The next big step will be to replace the red carpet (which is actually much grosser then it looks) with a black carpet. I like black interiors, and that will drastically help my level of happiness when driving the car. Sounds stupid, but it is what it is. The black and red coco mats can stay though.
This leads me into part two of where I will likely catch more shit. Bare with me, I promise I'm not going crazy, there is a method to my madness. I purchased another driver's seat. I love the period correct look and feel of the Recaros I have, and I intend to have them reupholstered. Both of them. However I also need to refoam, and repair the drivers seat. In the meantime, I wanted to try a more canyon carving friendly approach.
I purchased a Car Make Corn's bucket seat, something normally intended for a Miata, and I intend to put it in the driver's position. I chose this particular seat for a few reasons. I love the Car Make Corn's shop in Japan, it's such a cool place in general, and they put out some quality products. I contacted Kadin from CMC USA and he helped me source this seat. I actually picked it up at this year's JCCS, pulling it from a car he sponsors. I also find the seat to be incredibly comfortable. I have a really bad lower back, and for whatever reason the CMC seat just fits me right.
This is just something I am experimenting with, the Recaros will make another appearance in the future when they are all reupholstered and ready to go in.
The seat in the Miata I removed it from at JCCS. Nothing like driving from Phoenix to Long Beach and back to Phoenix in the same day, just to buy a seat!
This gives you a very vague idea of how it might look in my 2002. Obviously pre-bench dye.
So there it is. A bucket seat so I don't flop around in the car, and a black rear bench. I'm looking at carpeting options right now, but I'll be pulling and trashing the red carpet soon. I'll be talking to another shop about the trunk rust repair this week, and hopefully getting the ball rolling on that soon. After that, suspension refresh, cooling system refresh and so on. Bare with me, because I know not all of these are popular decisions, buuuuut I promise I haven't lost sight of the end goal. Dying the rear seat and the CMC bucket are stop gaps, things to make me more comfortable and happy in the short term, while the long term plans flesh out. This is a bit of a low point after that video, but it'll all come together.
Jim Gerock and I were spotted by Eric Carlson on I-95 South in Northern Virginia on our way to the '02 Group's 50th Anniversary of the 2002 Fall Drive in Dobson, NC.
So I finally stopped navel gazing and ordered the gear up to install a Holley Sniper 2BBL EFI system. The parts list is below.
HLY-558-443 HARNESS USB/CAN SNIPER TBI $49.95
SNE-550-849 2 BBL EFI THROTTLE BODY $849.95
SUM-230615 S.S. HOSE -6 15FT $57.99
SUM-251000 FUEL PUMP EXTERNAL $119.99 (ordered this as the Holley unit seems to fail quickly in some cases)
SUM-251010 FUEL PUMP MOUNTING KIT 1 $7.99
VPE-16612 -6AN TO 10MM X 1.0 METRIC STR $11.90
Also ordered a Holley 350 (same base plate as the Holley EFI) to Webber adapter.
Anticipating that I may want to go EFI I have installed the following already
1) AEM wideband 02 sensor
2) Electric fuel pump with a Painless Performance relay harness
3) Inertia safety cutoff switch (cuts off the fuel pump in an accident)
4) 90A alternator
5) Ireland engineering radiator (to make sure that everything is cool)
6)-6 braided fuel line from the tank into the car (pre-pump, post tank)
7) All (I think) of the maintenance stuff and while you are at it stuff.
Things I will need to do other than the obvious.
1) I will likely have to take off the intake. It has to be "hogged out" to make the intake opening compatible with the EFI unit.
2) I will port match the intake to the head and maybe smooth out the inside a bit. I had read that the two inner runners shouldn't be touched, and just do the outside two runners as this will help even out the flow.
3) I will also modify the bit where the upper rad hose goes into the motor to accept a standard temperature sensor so the EFI can be appropriately tuned.
4) I may have to get a -6 inlet put in the gas tank as a return as the one for the evap tank (my car is a 1975 Cali spec) is rather small and may cause fuel backpressure issues if the return line is restricted.
5) I will have to figure out the pedal linkage, this is easy stuff, my fabricator guy, and I can figure a solution out I am sure.
Icon Display at the BMWCCA Foundation. What a great visit to the BMW Car Club of America Foundation in South Carolina! Check it out if you are close or passing through! They have a wonderful exhibition of some vintage “icons”on display for the 50th anniversary of the 2002! Of course the first thing I do when I see TESORO is detail him up! 🤦♀️😉
An old friend of mine contacted me over the weekend to film the 2002, as well as my friend's 912. They had just finished setting up a new camera rig, and wanted something to test shoot with. Thought I'd share the results, my ratty 2002 has never looked so good. I'll have more updates for the build blog later, but this should hold you over in the mean time.
Ahhhh..... Autumn.... the time of year when your engine keeps you warm on those spectacular spirited drives! 🍂🍁🍂
pic 🍁
pic by local car photographer Joel Flores
pic
Drove 997.8 miles from Brunswick Maine to Jim Denker's in Kettering Ohio in 13 hours Thursday September 20th. Met up with my friend Dohn Roush at the US Air Force Museum in Dayton Ohio Friday, What an amazing collection of planes! Then Jim and I caravanned to a gas station to meet up with other Rivertown Gearbusters. After everyone showed up we were off to Sabbath Song Farm In Brooksville Kentucky. Jason Gipson set a brisk pace on the winding back roads which were an absolute delight to drive at speed. We arrived at Sabbath Song Farm at dusk and were greeted with a hot meal and shared stories of our adventures.
Saturday was the actual Ridge Run a 120+ mile counter clockwise loop of fantastically winding 55 mile an hour roads, spent most of the day in 3rd and 4th gear trying to keep up with Jason. It was challenging and fun driving Vern at 8/10ths, my tires were the real limiting factor. When it started raining, I pulled back considerably so I wouldn't have a 'moment' or close call with losing traction as I have been there done that.
Had such a great time with everyone, so wonderful to spend quality time with my Ohio, Indiana, Illinois & Kentucky friends known as the Rivertown Gearbusters.
Hey guys!
The rear replacement panel got welded in on the left side of the car. Also I have been the lucky owner of the (probably last) left inner wing for a while now, which has also been welded on the car.
I've also finally taken care of the nose, that needed a lot doing as well. The type 1 kidney has been installed since the nose was a type 2.
Some small, not too heavy tubes have been welded into the engine bay and and are attached to the nose as well. Now she I very stable and solid.
Finally I have been taken care of the dashboard frame... which had been removed by a previous owner for some reason.
More work coming soon, hoping to finally bring the car to the media blaster within max 1/2 months from now.
Thanks,
JP
Properly titled, this entry reflects one of the biggest achievments, pesonally, on my project so far. When I bought my car I knew there was some work to be done and I welcomed the challenge. The previous owner had started to replace the front passenger floor pan but abandoned the project for whatever reason. The first picture is the condition it was in when I bought it and yes that is the ground 😂
Picture #2 is of the inner sill that needed to replace because some bozo put the car on a lift with a rotted outter rocker and crumbled the entire piece
Picture #3 & #4 are of the new and improved state...repaired floor pan, inner sill, outer rocker, and even ran a patch in the frame rail while we had it open
Slowly but surely I am reviving this 75' 02
Well - there she goes.
Our time together was short, but I did get to daily her for a few months.
She gave and she gave - I took and I took.
Now time to put her best parts into Derby.
On with the show!
