Been bouncing around the idea in my head for a while and I finally pulled the trigger. I figured it's easier now than later when the car is all put together. I wanted the cooling system plumbing to match the fuel, oil and differential oil plumbing so I converted everything over to AN -20. Super easy to do but it set me back about $600. I'll be using an in-line radiator filler from Summit (not yet arrived).
Got the bars bent for the main hoop on the roll cage and for the front radiator/hood support. The front support is bolt on and removable, if need be, in the future. The lower radiator support is a welded in bar between the frame rails. The radiator sits at a slight angle so there should be plenty of room between it and the motor, not to mention I wont be running a fan, cap and rotor, etc. Which also makes the plumbing of the cooling system much more simple as well.
@AceAndrew your website https://adamsautosport.com/ mentions a bare bones M20 swap. Is that me? Wasn't sure because I wouldn't consider this an M2002 but this car is definitely bare bones.
Slowly but surely....
I pulled the front and rear subframes, welded on reinforcement plates and adjustable rear camber and toe kit. Powder coated both subframes, put poly-urethane subframe mounts and bushings everywhere besides the motor mounts to avoid unwanted vibrations in the car.
Ground control coil over kit in front and adjustable spring mount in rear paired with bilstein sports.
“Big brake” 320i vented front discs with with Volvo girling calipers and rear 250mm 320i drums for ample stopping power. Stainless brake lines and Adams Autosport cunifer hardlines. All hidden behind a set of BBS rs001s freshly powder coated and polished.
Stock engine other than a set of IE street headers and stainless exhaust. But that’s next on the list....
Vern won 1st place in Vintage 1st & 2nd Generation Super Clean Class at the Boston Chapter's BMW CCA Day at Larz Anderson Auto Museum in Brookline, MA
Chris Auty won 3rd in the same class with his 1967 BMW 1600GT.
Not much of an update. Ship schedule is still nuts (I’ll be out to sea for 6 of the next 8 weeks), but we did finally get the new house set up.
Got the garage cleared out to the point where I could get the car out of the storage unit.
Its nice to have her home.
I made a horn pad for my Petri wheel some time ago. Did not have the means to make the hardware bits to fasten it to the wheel. Finally have the tools and the means to do so thanks to my CL purchased 3D printer and Solidworks. I am still an absolute novice with these two tools. But, it's amazing what YouTube, sheer stubborness and hours of trials and errors will do... The grey bits are threaded inserts for the pad. The white screws were printed from flexible plastic.
I am starting this blog late into the project but I hope you enjoy! In December of 2016, a little over a year and a half ago now I bought my first BMW. It is a 1973 2002 base model which is a good starting project in my opinion. My whole goal was to get a 2002 that I can tinker on and basically customize the way I want it.The plan was get a car that I could do most of the work on myself and use it as a learning experience, as well as having something that is rewarding and fun to drive. Over the past couple years I have learned so much and I am hoping to have the car running and on the road for summer of of 2019.
December 21st, 2016: With help from a few friends we picked up the car took it home on a trailer. The car was rusty, full of dirt and other crap, mice had gotten into the headliner, the fenders, rockers, and a-pillars were rotten along with the trunk and some other common spots... basically the car was not worth salvaging but that didn't stop me. These are just a few pictures of the car when I picked it up and some pictures of what things are starting to look like all taken apart and cleaned up. There will be more to come in other blogs!
I mostly wait to post with big updates. Which is fine, but means I don't have much to say for long periods of time. I'm never in a hurry, I like to take my time with this car and really think before I do things. But it's also frustrating to make so little progress in such a long period of time too. I've been fighting sourcing parts, breaking things and the Arizona heat lately. I thought I'd share a recent hiccup, a part I'm very excited about picking up, and the start of the brake rebuild. This probably isn't the most interesting update in the world, but it's all part of the process.
The other evening, I was driving the 2002 home, went to turn into my neighborhood and heard a massive thunk before losing all connection to the rear wheels. I coasted to the side of the road, and just knew that I ruined my diff. Fortunately I was wrong, and had just broken the axle to diff bolts clean off. A friend came to my rescue, and we were able to thread back in a couple bolts and I could limp it 300 yards back to my house.
Only photo I have from that evening.
Sure enough, I snapped some bolts. The rest backed out, stressing the remaining two that snapped.
These were an absolute bitch to get out.
As it turns out, these bolts have previously been replaced, and were far too short for the output flange. There was also 0 sign of loctite, so they just backed out over time. The chunks I removed from the diff shows you all of the thread that could go in, with nearly twice that much room available. I put in new, longer bolts, and it seems to be fine now. But I have to go in and replace the other side this weekend, just to make sure this doesn't happen again. I also threw some blue loctite in there for good measure.
I also picked up a part that I honestly never thought I'd be able to source for the car. I purchased a set of original Auto-Plas louvers on Instagram of all places. They arrived safe and sound, but had no mounting hardware, and were obviously very orange. Yes, I am going to restore them and paint them black. What you see below are just some mock ups. It's a hideous color, but you can't be picky when trying to buy out of production, obscure parts.
Yes I'm going to paint them black.
I promise they won't stay orange, this is only a mock up.
I also happened to find a company that is reproducing the Auto-Plas mounting hardware, so I put in an order. It should be here by the end of the month, so I'll get cracking on repainting the louvers black. I realize the look isn't to everyone's taste, but it's something I have had in mind since I bought the car. So I'm pretty excited to have these in. And I'll be more excited when they aren't orange anymore.
Finally, I started preparing for the big brake swap. You'll note in a previous post that I wasn't about to put crusty junkyard parts on my car. The Volvo calipers were disgusting, and the Mk4 calipers weren't far behind. So I sourced some rebuild kits, blew everything apart and sent it all off for powder coat. For the Mk4 calipers, I took them to a friend to have them shaved down. If you are running 14 inch wheels on a 2002, you may run into clearance issues in the rear. Even though I currently have 15s, I have tentative plans to swap to 14s, if I can find a very specific set of wheels I've been dreaming about lately. So I took them to a friend's shop and had him sand down the rear section. Is it over kill? Yes absolutely. Will it look great? I'm sure, if you could really see them behind the RSs, it'd be fire. But I rather have fresh, new parts on the car. Might as well do things right.
Start of the Volvo tear down. Seals were blown, caliper puked water out everywhere.
Photo credit: @dauerhaftfab
Photo credit: @dauerhaftfab
It isn't much, but should be just enough to clear future 14 inch wheels. Side note, if you are a 2002 owner and looking to put together your own rear disc brake conversion, you'll likely end up getting Mk4 rear calipers. They're aluminum, easy to source, and bolt up to the Mk3 caliper carrier brackets that you need for the conversion plates. All the VW forums will swear up and down that you cannot get them powder coated because they are not rebuildable. This made no sense to me, reman units exist so obviously they have to rebuild them somehow. So I started digging into the issue and found the solution below.
Most rebuild kits for Mk4 VW Jetta rear calipers are listed as only including the piston seals, and dust boots. However Centric makes a full rebuild kit, which includes all the rear seals and clips. It is PN: 143.33037. You can find it on eBay, I'd advise not buying it from ECS as they're horrific to deal with. Then just follow this write up. It's a pain in the ass for sure, and if you don't really want to go to the effort of powder coating your calipers, you are far better off just purchasing a reman unit and slapping it on. However I wanted everything to match front and back, so this is where I find myself. I'm surprised this information isn't easier to find honestly.
So now I'm waiting for my stuff to come back from powdercoating. This weekend I'll be addressing a few more small issues on the car, cleaning some hardware, and start prepping for my big road trip to Big SoCal Euro. If anyone else is planning on being there, I'd love to meet up at the show!
Its only been a solid year since i have updated this blog. Bad Zach, no cookie for you!
Over the past year I have:
Bought a rusty parts car to harvest parts for my slightly less rusty car.
Bought all the stuff required to redo the trunk metal floors.
Cut out and welded up a LOT of rust all over the car.
Cut out all the rotten trunk metal, and making my plan for welding in the good stuff.
Redid my engine mounts, and a bunch of other smaller jobs around the engine bay.
Got new tires put on an mounted.
At this point there are basically three issue spots that remain. Both rockers still need love. The drivers side rocker is cleaned out, and still needs to be welded up.
The pass side rocker is in much better shape, but still needs rot cut out.
The trunk. I've cut out 90% of the rust out of the trunk. The trunk floor kit I have is modular, its not the big single stamped piece. Which is nice as its going to let me do this in stages. I want to finish up the trunk before I finish the rockers. My thinking here is that when the trunk is done, I can put back in the gas tank that I sealed 2 years ago, run fuel lines and START THE CAR. This will be a big moral victory, as it means no more pushing the car around when I want to work on it. I can just drive that bitch!
I also toyed with the idea of buying a rolling shell in good shape and moving all the parts I have over. Saving me the joy of a lot more welding.
This idea nearly came to fruition a week ago, when I came across an estate auction for a guy nearish to me that built 2002s.
"Well hey there" I thought to myself. Up for auction were two rolling shells, both of which had the rust work done, one of which was painted and the other wasn't. I decided I would make a go for the unpainted body. As it was still more or less bare metal, and had no title I was hoping that I could pick it up for a few grand.
I was wrong.
The painted body sold for $14K. Absolutely stupid money for a car that had brand new paint already failing in places.
The untitled, unpainted body sold for $4K. I was in the auction until $3K but was not going to go any higher then that. The guy that wont the auction was the guy that was bidding (but ultimately lost the auction for) the painted body. He had cash and was determined to come home with a car.
IMO, this is crazy money. This is "buy a nice running and driving car" money for a car that had mediocre paint at best. The rolling shell was also somewhat crazy IMO. I guess you can chalk it up to "east coast premium," but again it was approaching driver car money for a shell that still needed several grand worth of work before it was actually a car again.
The whole thing left me feeling pretty good about my little green 2002 that I paid 2002 for in June of 2016. I've been keeping track of my costs, and I'm going to be way under 4K once my rust remediation is complete - and my car has a clean title.
Right after I bought the car it desperately needed tires so like any project I do I can't just do a simple task. The paint on these 43 year old rims was far for visually appealing so I decided to refinish the wheels, a quick but rewarding step into reviving my car. Fitted with new rubber, fresh paint, and new emblems we are nearing the driving point.
Now for the updates
Paint touch up is almost complete. Nose didn't need to be repainted after all. Both rear quarters on the other hand needed some attention. Next up is to re-align the transmission as Vern's guibo has started to crack after only 6,700 miles! Plan is to rotate the engine counter clockwise to remove the guibo stress, re-alighn the driveshaft and hopefully get more fan clearance from the lower part of the radiator. Currently can't fit my pinky finger between the fan and radiator it is that close!
I’d say that’s a major improvement!! Wow!!! Just waiting in one more part from restoration design. Then we will get the old girl back home for more of the stuff I can do on my own. It’s really exciting to see progress!!
The first couple of years I've owned the car I just drove it. Didn't really touch anything. Then I came across a e21 Recaro driver side seat on craigslist for $40. It was trashed but for $40! The guy I bought it from turned out to be a super nice dude who's become a friend. Watch out for Austens Superchaged M3 swapped e30.
I spent the next year lazily on the lookout for a passenger seat at a decent price and eventually one popped up on ebay. Price was reasonable so now I had the set. After being blown away by local reupholstery pricing I sent them out to Dave at Aardvarc. I knew wanted cloth/vinyl but it was hard to source fabric online. I wanted something salt and pepper looking, like TV static, and found what I thought a great match online. It ended up being a little less peppered than I wanted but overall was happy with the results. Here's pic of my son enjoying the comfort of freshly reupholstered Recaros.
I also had Dave make a matching rear cover that my Father in Law and I threw on.
My next little project was redoing the shot and smelly sunvisors. I used the original vinyl to trace out a pattern then I cut and sewed up new ones from the same fabric I used for the seat. I think if I was to do it again I would do the seat fabric on the backside only and some sort of off white vinyl on the side you see when they’re up so you only see the fabric when the shade it flipped down. I think my positioning of the clip must be off as well since part of the shade bumps the headliner when flipping it down.
My next bigger project was the center console. The vinyl/plastic material had tons of holes through the side from fixes throughout the years. It seems screws through the side was how it came from the factory. I was determined to hide all the fastener. My goal was a simple but tastefull console that had the modern convenience of a CarPlay touchscreen display. I had a bunch of Mahogany veneer left from a table refinishing so I wanted to use that also and stain it very dark/close to black while still letting some woodgrain show through.
Here's my original console.
I dissasembled it all. Wasn't hard since it was falling apart anyways and was left with the 2 particleboard side panels and the hardware that holds it together. I wrapped the panels in some thin foam, Super77'ed on that I had lying around. I bought some nice looking vinyl from the fabric store and wrapped them back up, stapling in areas I knew wouldn't be visible once it was all back together. It looks like I wasn't the best at documenting the entire process but here's the few pics I have.
Making the new face was the most difficult part. I did it twice because I wasn't happy with the first one. It basically involved carboard aided mockups to get the angles how I wanted them to fit the new Pioneer unit I had bought. I wanted it to all have a clean look so routered out some of the back of the stereo opening to allow it to sit flush (it's ugly but you don't see it)
I also wanted to add a couple of VDO gauges and move the harzard light to nice spot right in the middle. When I got the gauges I ordered I cut holes for them but wasn't happy with how they looked so I sent them back and bought the chrome ringed version. (Yes that's a turbo gauge. No I don't have a turbo... yet) The new gauges looked awesome but apparently were a hair smaller than the ones I had drilled holes for so there was a gap. Not wanting to redo the face panel I searched and searched and found that camera ring adapters would take up the space perfectly and not annoy me too badly. I also made the pocket a little more functional but adding an inset tray lined with the seat fabric and a phone holding slot. The wiring plug for the hazard light just barely reaches in this position. Here was the end result.
New carpet. The carpet in the car was smelly, dirty and old. Time to go. I ordered a new set from Esty and she even had a really great Salt and Pepper color. The install took me a few hours but it was really pretty easy and I'm happy with the result. If you're thinking about getting carpet from her, do it. Better shots of the console installed and the rear seat reupholstery here too.
Other things done so far are new speakers in the kick panels (there were already giant holes cut in there) and a new rear parcel shelf with inlayed hidden undermount speakers. Don't have a pic of that right now.
Vern is back at VSR to have stone chips touched up and a few other things attended to. Poor guy really took it on the chin and nose over the past 6,700+ miles since April 17, 2018. Spoke to Mario yesterday and went over the work plan. Nose is being repainted, other paint flaws will be touched up and wet sanded. Doing all this because I am having the paint treated with Opti-Coat Pro, a two stage ceramic coating. https://www.opticoat.com/page/opti-coat-pro
At the BMW CCA O'Fest Concours, where Vern placed 2nd in Classic Super Clean. A judge, after the awards, helpfully pointed out what specific areas needed attention. I am still waiting for the judging notes/sheet from Paul Cain, the BMW CCA Concours Chair.
It's been a while since I've updated, as I tend to maintain my StanceWorks build thread a little more diligently. But I wanted to bring my '02 FAQ blog up to speed as well. Since I last posted, I've made some more changes to the car. A couple months back, I took the Roundie to a local show at FourTillFour. The day before, we gave it a very light buff. The results were pretty impressive, given how shot the paint is.
You can see the before and after here.
After that, the temperatures here in AZ started creeping up pretty rapidly, and I pretty much stopped driving the car. I started looking towards my 4 lug swap so I could run my BBS RSs, and decided a brake upgrade was in order while I was in there. I did some digging, and settled on piecing together my own budget BBK, using Volvo 240 front calipers, VW Mk4 rear calipers and a mix of E21 and Mk1 Golf pieces elsewhere. I ordered what I couldn't source, and pieced together the whole kit. I had the stock rear hubs machined down, so they fit in the rotor top hats, and pressed new studs in.
Note how the stock hub does not fit in the rear rotor.
Post machining. Took quite a bit of material out of the hub.
Excuse the bag, but the hub now fits.
So I did all this work, and was set to do the big brake swap and go back to four lug. But after spending a good 15 minutes trying to scrub the grit out of the 240 calipers, I decided to do things right. Instead of throwing grimey parts on my 2002, I'm going to be getting the calipers all powder coated, and rebuild them so they're nice and fresh. In the mean time, I've just left stock equipment on the car, as fortunately I had a back up set of stock front hubs, new stock rotors and pads.
I then tackled (finally) finishing the BBS RS rebuild. I had some hiccups with the wheel bolts, my torque wrench had fallen way out of spec. As a result I had over torqued everything, and only realized this when one bolt snapped. In retrospect, I did think it felt like it was taking too much force, but didn't bother to try another torque wrench. So all 120 bolts came back out, and I ordered new hardware. I borrowed a Snap On torque wrench and had them all back together in one evening. I ordered some Hankook RS4s and got them mounted up. The car came with a similarly size (195/50r15) Kumho A/S when I bought it. The M20 pretty easily over powered those tires, and frankly they never were confidence inspiring. The RS4 might be overkill for a street tire, but I like the tread pattern and the additional grip is welcome.
Yes, I went overboard with the silicone. I trimmed the excess off later.
Upside of daily driving a Fiesta ST, I can haul wheels easily.
Then, out of impatience, I started tearing apart the hubs one evening to test fit the wheel. My initial test fit revealed that the stock studs were far too short for my redrilled RSs. I also discovered the the passenger side, rear hub was completely frozen on. It wasn't an ideal situation to be working, Monsoons kept hitting here in Arizona and I work outside.
If you look closely, you'll see the nuts barely thread on. It also revealed the rear suspension was far too high.
I then struggled with the whole wheel stud situation for a day or two. I knew a needed longer studs, but not too long. Otherwise it would interfere with the BBS waffle. I tried a couple different options, but finally settled on the most ridiculous option. I ordered Ireland Engineering's 70mm studs, and then cut them down to the length I needed. Is this the most efficient way to do things? No, not at all. But it did work, and now the wheels can safely be bolted to the car.
Stock vs. IE 70mm studs.
Now I have the opposite issue, these are too long for the waffle to fit.
Shitty photo, but you can see that they were cut down to spec.
Now I was ready to retackle the whole hub swap. The drivers rear, and both the fronts went very smoothly. I was done in no time at all. That frozen rear axle nut remained an issue however. I broke two breaker bars, one ratchet, a pair of vice grips and went through a full tank of MAPP gas, a can and a half of PB Blaster, a half can of Aero Kroil, and bent a metal extension pipe. I was starting to lose faith that I could get that nut off and would have to cut it. After struggling in my driveway for a full day and a half, a friend dropped by with a monster of an impact gun, and zipped it right off. I definitely loosened it for him... There were not photos from this process, because it was largely uninteresting. But afterwards, I took the 2002 for it's first spin on new wheels and took a few photos to celebrate the occasion.
Note that I finally attached the missing knee-line trim piece. It's the little things that make a difference. The car drives a million times better. I took some of the pre-load out of the rear suspension, and suddenly it didn't ride like it had 100k springs in it anymore. There is no more wicked wobble in the front end, and the car legitimately has some serious grip with these RS4s. Before the car would roast tires on command, now it just hooks up and scoots. It's not like the M20 is pushing any serious power, but more the all-seasons on it before were just garbage.
Up next, I really need to refocus my efforts on the cooling system. I think a bigger radiator, fan and lower temp switch are all in order. I also want to tackle more chassis issues, like the lack of front sway bar, bushings and just basic items like tie-rods and such. The car is so much sharper than it was when I got it, with just a few basic tweaks. I think it has potential to be a really fun canyon car, but I have to make sure it's safely up for the task. For now, I'm just going to enjoy how good this car looks on some shiny BBS RSs.
Overhauling my heaterbox. Repairing cracked plastic....wow it’s fragile. Don’t ask me how I know. Also if you doing this and reusing your fan blades on a new motor. A Quick way to determine which way the fan blows is to attach it to your drill before punching out the center shaft to affix to new motor. Also not that I read a post somewherethat if you reverse the wiring the fan may blow in a different direction...so there’s that way as well to be cautious of.
Did i I mention this 50 year old plastic is fragile.. F&#& !!
Cindy bought me a pair of Piloti Competition, specifically made for driving. Thin reinforced sole takes strain off ankles, knees and balls of feet. After driving Vern 730+ miles to Pittsburgh in a day with these shoes, I wasn't sore or limping like with Vans, Converse Allstar (low & high tops) or Sperry Top Siders.
Since the right rockers are now whole again and the quarter panel is still off I decided the next order of business was the floor pans. They are all almost a total loss.
LF: The plywood does a good job of covering the bulk of the hole.
Removing the rear seat support was a quick task as only the welds on the top of the tunnel and the sides of the rockers were holding it on. Started by removing the outer seat rail. I then used a body saw to trim out the rotten RR pan from just behind the subframe push bar to the flat portion below the front seat. The flange attaches to the rocker is still clean metal so I left that. I cut just below the seat belt mount and the seat rail on the tunnel. I removed the donor pan and test fit/trimmed it until it fit well enough to weld it in with all of the ribs reliefs matched up. I left the leading edge and about 5” back from the front loose so that I can match it up with the rest of the panel still to be removed the the ‘69 floor. The welding isn't finished in this pic, but that pan isn't going anywhere for sure.
In my opinion the worst part of the floor is the LF. The frame rail essentially doesn’t exist anymore, the pan is only held on by some rust scale under the seat. The A-pillar is pretty bad, the outer rocker is just a few flakes of iron oxide and the inner has some major damage.
Tons of work still to come, but it's getting stronger every day.