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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

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  1. The work continues. It’s been a blast so far. I have had to continually remind myself that this is a long project. It’s easy to become disenchanted by rust and things I feel are beyond my scope. However, reading and learning are key. I’m not giving up on this little car. 

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  2.  So I took a few pictures of the engine bay and I am still in a learning phase with this car.

     

    I've been able to figure out that it has a upgraded starter from a BMW 320 (cranks much better then my 71) and also seems to have a newer alternator.  The part numbers on the sticker have wore off so I'm not really sure what type of alternator it is I know it is a Bosch brand though.

     

    The carburetor is a solex and my idle is currently pretty high...I have to figure out how to reduce that.

     

    all in good time.

     

     

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  3. Tesoro glowing for 2018! Love how Tesoro looks in front of this Frank Lloyd Wright building... such an art deco/vintage feel under this warm lighting.... 

     

    Pic taken by yours truly ;)

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  4. With how twisted and bent the nose was and how much work it took, I'm super happy with the results. Final panel fitting today before epoxy priming. Had to correct the fender/door gap as new sheetmetal needed quite a bit of work to fit properly. Of course the top seam of the fender to nose will be welded as the factory did.

     

    Bumpers came back from the chrome shop. 

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  5. Here we cut out all the rust to get ready to build our trans tunnel, and rear trunk floor with diff mount....

     

    After firewall is built, we will install motor so its running and driving to make sure if we have to add anymore brackets we are doing so before paint...The cars body will also be stripped down to bare metal to make sure no hidden rust holes are found. 

     

     

     

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  6. Here what we would do is fully strip vehicle down to bare chassis and have it stripped down to bare metal to see if any spots need to be addressed. So far its looking like front fenders, and rockers, and rear lower quarters...But overall for a Michigan car that was parked in a bar and garage most its life the floors are solid!

     

     

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  7. As I suspected, the Geo Metro air control valve did not move enough air for the m10 engine. So, I got a Ford style valve and installed it. Now the engine starts and idles as it should. Here are the details of my installation.

     

    1. I made this steel bracket to mount the IAC under the first and second tubes of the intake. You'll note that I had to grind that nubbin down a little to clear the valve body:

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    2. Here is the Ford idle control valve mounted to the bracket. I have this thin wall tube that has an outer diameter that is exactly 16mm. I slid short lengths of it into the ports of the IAC and fixed them with Loctite 680 retaining compound:

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    3. I found a hose at the auto parts store, Gates #19047, that I was able to cut up to connect the valve and the inlet on the intake. Here is the lower section:

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    4. I made a flange from 1/4" aluminum plate with a bored hole and another length of that 16mm O.D. tube press fit into it:

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    5. Here is a shot of the upper hose. It is connected to the lower hose via yet another short length of the 16mm O.D. steel tubing:

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    This valve moves a lot of air, so the PWM duty cycle values for both start and idle are rather low.

     

    That's it for this installment. There's not really anything left to do other than tune.

     

    Jesse.

  8. Spent a brief moment updating the KoogleWerks website, added some details on air dam fit/length (so each one is easier to identify in photos I.E; long/short, high mount/low mount, etc.) as well as made a new page dedicated to updates on new product development and prototypes that may (or may not) make it to production.

     

    "As we gain manufacturing capabilities and Ideas evolve, we hope to keep you up to date with future products and special projects (some of which are available for purchase now!)" 

    - http://www.kooglewerks.com/prototyping-in-progress/

     

    and here are just a few random pics...works in progress and oddities.

     

    new air dam designs

     

     

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    Recent Entries

    Nathan
    Latest Entry

    1975 2002 Baur Build

    VIN 3590497

    Karossrie (Coachbuilder), Baur built 1,963 left- hand drive cabriolets, and 354 right hand drive cabriolets between the periods of July(1) 1971 – December(31) 1975. This information is according to VIN coding found on the most complete site I have come across for such information -http://bmw2002.terraweb.com.pt/producao.htm . This blog is about the restoration of my 1975 Baur built on February 21, 1975 and delivered to the UK a month later. The car retains its original Chamonix color. This specific information can be found by contacting BMW at the following email address info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com. As with any restoration , there are always new things to learn, and I will point out facts along the way that have challenged the process – much to do with one- off parts that are no longer available (NLA).

    Pre 1971 there were a handful - (200) full cabriolets built. It was decided that a roll bar feature would increase safety in these cars, and the “Targa” was developed. Porsche had the rights to the word “Targa,” and it is used loosely to describe the Baur with the “roll bar” solid roof piece separating a lift - out  front roof piece and fold – down rear flexible window piece. Baur also built the TC1, TC2/TC3 and TC4 - E21, E30 and E36, respectively, TC meaning “Top Cabriolet.” Below is a link to the support of these models – http://baurspotting.blogspot.com/.

    Along the way I will give credit to those who helped with this restoration.

    US parts suppliers; Lajolla Independent, http://www.bimmerdoc.com  and Maxamillian Importing, http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/. When buying parts through a US supplier a European Title is required in order to purchase two of any one part in a year’s time. This can slow the parts procurement process. Parts suppliers in Europe used for this restoration include; Jaymic Limited, http://www.jaymic.com, and Wallothnesch, https://www.wallothnesch.com/e/frameoffer.htm.

    Chrome pieces requiring straightening, re-anodizing, or polishing, and ceramic coating services were provided by “Finish Line Coating” in Portland, OR.  www.finishlinecoatings.com.

    The Baur is about 1 ½” shorter, not in wheel base, but in height - 53.54 in. vs 55 ½” in. All other dimensions appear to be the same. The weight is about 160lbs heavier than a standard 2002 due to added structural reinforcing in the rear floor area between B pillars. The Baurs had unique one-off details that set them apart: smaller windshield size with a two piece rigid stainless steel locking strip, inoperable front wing windows, vinyl clad 1/4 window latches with a screw mechanism vs a flip latch, latches associated with the removable top and retractable rear top, including numerous seals, and riveted on stainless steel rain gutters are several notable differences. The B pillar trim and rear ¼ window hinges are shorter by 1 ½” as noted above. Neither are available, so carefully modification of standard 02 parts is required. And, as you might guess, all door seals and ¼ window seals are different and long gone NLA. I was lucky to source both from Carl Nelson at La Jolla Independent who has the only other Baur I have seen in person. The gas tank is noted as 11 gal where a standard 02 is noted at 12.1gal although there is no difference in fitment.  The gauge cluster reads kilometers per hour as expected and came standard with a clock instead of a tachometer as a factory upgrade. Rear seat belts were also a factory upgrade. The original engine was an 89mm piston, 1990cc M-10. I can’t find any mention of a Baur as a tii or ti. However, I have seen dual side draft installations. My intentions are to create a pseudo ti car with tii struts and brakes and a rebuilt M10 engine with dual 40 DCOE side drafts and a ti (4) port air Alpina box.   

    Our 1600, 2002, and E9 BMW’s are susceptible to rust as we all know. Baurs are no different. Any time water is invited into the body as like in internal draining doors, rust will present itself. The Baurs have a nice open well where the rear retractable window stores that provides a good place for moisture to find its way through and un-perfect rear sealing arrangement. This car had its share of rust issues. The body work was expertly repaired by Coupe King in Long Beach, CA. There are several images of the extensive repair work on their web site, http://www.coupeking.com/. The car sat in Coupe King’s shop for a dozen years or more before I started my search for a Baur project. They are professionals to the nth degree, and I knew this would be a sound starting point. I purchased the car from Coupe King in February 2015.

    The car was stripped to the bare minimum and rotisserie painted with the original Chamonix and a durable multi coat undercoating.

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    The car came to me as a shell with a truck load of original parts. The build began with disassembly of the front and rear suspension parts. The only thing(s) saved for reuse were the front sub frame, pitman arms, tension struts, steering box, and rear sub frame, trailing arms and axle shafts. After cleaning and powder coating, the front suspension was rebuilt with all new parts and cad plated hardware unless otherwise noted including: used tii struts, rebuilt tii brake calipers, bearings, resurfaced tii rotors/hubs, rebuilt steering box, brake backing plates, control arms, tie rods, etc etc. All rubber was replaced including upper strut bearings with .5 deg negative camber plates. To finish off the front end, Eibach Springs, HD Bilsteins, and a 19mm sway bar from Jaymic were added.

    The OEM fire wall insulation is cumbersome, so a custom piece was provided by Coupe King along with a complete set of custom-formed brake lines. For those of us who have “bent” our own brake lines – it is a chore… 

    The European car front light buckets and lenses are quite different from the US reflector plate drop-in adjustable H4 Hellas. To make things more confusing, several versions of the European lights were provided over the years. Sourcing these is not easy but a true Euro restoration requires such detail. If you look closely in the images below, my Euro front lights are not installed but  have been sourced – thank you Carl Nelson, - and are being restored.

    The rear suspension build is quite straight forward – bearings, bushings, rebuilt axle shafts, all cad - plated hardware, Eibachs, Bilsteins, and all new rubber to finish it off. The original 3.64:1 diff has been retained.

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    She is a “roller” now and onto other tasks like rebuilding the heater plenum box and components, a re-soldered and pressure tested heater core, reinforced valve purchase, lubricated Bowden cables, etc. Thanks to help from faq contributor Auto Dynamik in San Francisco. The next task is sorting the wiring harnesses - checking every wire and making repairs as needed - tedious but necessary and a great lesson on what goes where. Not all harnesses are the same, and not all 12 fuse boxes are the same, i.e. model 71 vs model 73. The electrical portion of the renovation takes lots of quiet time to sort out unless this is your day job – which it is not for me!

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    The Baur came to me without an engine or drive train, so I set off to source an M10 engine. Only days into my search I found a donor car from NW European Auto Works in Bellingham, WA. It was a 74 tii that had sat in a field for almost a decade and in the rainy northwest was in bad shape but traded to Ron for repair work on another German car. The price was right although I didn’t really want an entire car which is the way it was offered. It was a quick trip to Bellingham and back with a donor on a trailer. I set about pulling out the motor, transmission, etc.

    With the engine out and off to C and D Engine Performance www.CDEngines.com for rebuilding, I continued with the restoration in my cramped garage.

    The next long-lead item is a European dashboard. The Euro dashes do not have the “fasten seat belt” telltale on the upper dash. In the US I have found them difficult to find. However, I was connected through faq to a great resource in Denmark who was in search of some parts I was able to provide; and, in return, he had a very good two-piece dash from a tii. A tii dash with clock is not correct for a Baur but given the scarcity of Euro dashes I made the purchase and sent it off to Just Dashes for recovering - http://www.justdashes.com/. The dash came back looking factory new. The recovering work was excellent. Now with a gauge cluster with a tachometer, a clock seems reasonable and adds a bit or recognizable character.

    The engine build came to a screeching halt with a cracked block from the donor tii. Back to square one and the need to source another M10 short block. One phone call to my friend Mike O’Hara at Mike O’Hara BMW Service in Portland, and I was back in business – a 74 tii long block and a 74 short block.

    The engine is in its final stages of assembly and will be installed by Race Craft in Woodenville, WA. http://racecraftnw.com/.

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    The car is meant to be a street car for limited use, but a 292deg. reground cam from Ireland Engineering http://www.bmw2002.com/  in a ported E12 head with 100% replacement valve train parts, 40 DCOE Weber side drafts, and 1mm oversized K & N pistons with about a 9.5:1 compression ratio will give the Baur a sporty punch on a Sunday drive. Add a balanced 228mm flywheel/clutch assembly, and we have a tidy power plant.

    During the protracted engine build I decided to complete the interior work. The removable hard top that came with the car looked to be in decent shape. The retractable rear section needed to be replaced entirely. The retractable frame went to the powder coater while Jaymic in The UK ordered a new top from BMW.  It is very surprising that these are (were) still available. The hard top is NLA with a delivery date from BMW of July, 2017. The date came and went with no new production, so it was time to rebuild the original top. Fortunately I found All City Convertibles in Kirkland, WA.   https://www.allcityconvertible.com/. They provide expert work with years of classic car upholstery repair and installation experience. New German wool loop carpets were sourced from Europe. There is no substitute for properly cut, marked, and hemmed with proper vinyl trim pieces, than carpets from Jaymic. The carpet install was painless – the hard targa top restoration was a different story. Once the damaged top covering material was removed, it was clear the top had likely flown off the car and was tweaked out of square and had been poorly repaired with epoxy filler among other things. All City did a fine job, given their starting point, with resurrecting the top - requiring removing the old repair material and properly bringing the shape back to true form. Recovering the outside and re-stitching a new underside headliner to match the pleated original completed the job. The original seal along three sides of the top had to be reused and is NLA. The rear seal is still in production but chrome latches and other joining pieces and NLA and had to be rechromed and polished. 

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    This blog will be amended once I have more to share. Thanks for taking the time to read this. If you have a particular interest in any part of the article I can be reached best by email

    nathan@secharlton.com.

     

     

     

     

     

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  9. While not currently a well "handling" car, that is one of the eventual goals.  At some point fairly soon, I'll see new wheels and tires, stage 1 or likely 2 kit from IE and upgraded brakes.  For now, the stock seats and seatbelts left something to be desired.  The vinyl on the fronts had been redone at some point, so they were really clean, but the hinges on the driver seat aren't great, the back seat was original and in very rough shape (especially inside it), and the seatbelt retracting mechanisms were completely shot.  I had read that lots of seat upgrades go toward Recaro seats with increased side bolstering.  I found an automotive upholstery place here in Seattle that had a bunch of seats up front, and while the Recaro seemed nice, I chose a ProCar seat that has great support, but was smaller overall and looked a little more "period correct", although looking correct isn't my top priority.  I also bought all new seat belts from @bluedevils here on the forum and they seem to be working great so far!  I also had the upholstery place install the 3 point belts in back while they had the seats out.  The driver seat had to be sent back (they shipped one without a head rest), so here is the current state which shows both old and new seats.

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  10. As I mentioned in a different blog of mine, I bought some BWA Sportray wheels 13x6 et13. I happen to find a few pix of them with gold centers and I really dug them. So went to a light restoring of these. ready for paint removal.

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    These wheels were in great condition and the paint did come off with ease for the most part. Ive done a set of euroweaves before and those were a PITA compared to these. The lips were machined and looked good cleaned up but it would take more time to get them fully polished.

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    primered.

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    Waiting to mount the 205/60/13 Federal 595s on.

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    The difference will be amazing...I hoped.

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    I knew when I bought these wheels that the caps were different but from what im reading, caps are hard enough to find. At least I have some. For reference on the difference.

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    And mounted up.

     

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    I also put electrical tape on the grill slats to freshen up the front end.

     

    Cheers!

  11. All along with this project there were a few things I knew would be the big issues to get over.

    1.       Engine and transmission install – it fits and it’s mounted

    2.       Adapting the new transmission to the BMW dif, this is next….

    3.       Building a new pedal assembly – done over break

    4.       Fixing the rust and bodywork – done over break

    5.       Rewiring the whole call – TBD

    6.       Making the rack and pinion steering work – finally finished over break

    As you can see the list is getting shorter.  The bodywork turned out much worse than I had hoped.  I did not spend as much time blocking the car as I should have.  At some point I may go back and redo the bodywork and paint to have a nicer looking car.  At this point it’s ok from a distance, and for its intended purpose its fine.  This car was rotten and not worth saving.  As bad as my bodywork is, it’s still miles better than what I found.  All that to say, here it is, on all four wheels in the sun!

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    Next up was the pedal assembly.  I worked with Wilwood to size the master cylinders to work with the 240 front calipers and the 320i rear drums.  I will also be running a Wilwood master cylinder for the clutch.  The other interesting part I had to add was the electronic throttle pedal to work with the LE5.  The pedal is typically firewall mounted and top hinged.  I flipped it and mounted it to a subframe with the other two pedals.  I have them all hinged at the same point and in the same plane.  I may need to tweak the throttle to prevent miss-steps.

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    The steering was the next big challenge.  The size of the engine dictated the change to a 320 rack.  Further complicating matters was my choice to run the electronic power steering column.  This arrangement required 3 U-joints!  After getting everything installed with a bearing on the long shaft it seems to work well.  I have however, discovered that the power assist is not needed.  This means I may got to a manual column or shift the steering attachment points to tighten the turning radius.  I fear as is it will be larger than a suburban.

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    Finally, I built up a bracket to support my hand me down electric fan from my new radiator.  The whole assembly is removed as one.  It should help with serviceability down the road.

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    The goal is to be road worthy this August.  I am hoping to drive the 5 miles each way to make a portion of the Woodward Dream Cruise this year.

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  12. I was able to make some progress on the interior today. Got the rest of the floorpans striped and inspected for rust then treated and sealed. Driver floorpan left untouched as it will be completely replaced when it goes to paint.

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    The exposed wiring above is the custom wiring harness that in progress. 

     

     

    Until next time

     

    -Tyler

  13. Check it out!  The right side is 'before', left is 'after'

     

    No buffing wheel or anything!  Just clay bar, surface compound, and turtle wax!

    STEPS:

    1.  Wash surface

    2.  Rub clay into surface, use water to help it slide across surface.  Massage into paint so it picks up dirt and such. 

    3.  Towel dry

    4.  Use a clean rag and rubbing compound, in circular motions around the surface

    5.  Wax surface.  Let wax become opaque, then remove

    TADA!

     

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  14. Been pretty busy the past few weeks, unfortunately not all on projects. I did manage to get a couple things done though.

     

    Engine Updates!!!

    I now have the block clearance for the new crankshaft and connecting rods. I have my machine shop turning a custom piece for the crankshaft, so this is probably as far as it gets till that comes back.

    Crankshaft sitting in its new resting place. Any one able to guess the crankshaft??! Hint: it is a stock BMW crankshaft.

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    Here is the clearancing that was needed for the connecting rods and crankshaft. It is a tight fit and I didn't anticipate this much clearancing.5a43ab11f0fe3_Engineblockclearancing.thumb.jpg.f0b718e58e221217a269d2cb538f319f.jpg

    Here is the piston at TDC. It fits just proud of the block. I will need to measure the PTV very closely before I order my custom MLS gasket. I will be very impressed if anyone can guess what piston this is. Hint: it is not a BMW piston, but it is a stock piston of some sort.

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    I am not sure if there is anyone well versed in M20s that is lurking on here, but if there is a better way to get this needle bearing for the oil pump gear out of the plug for where the distributor used to go on early M20s please let me know. I have mangled this bearing beyond recognizable with my die grinder, burr, and colorful language.5a43ac4053057_Needbearings2.thumb.jpg.846b1ad08e62edc9457bd5682a0f0bf5.jpg

    Here is the one from the block side I took out and the one from the plug (correct terminology?)

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    E30 Subframe 

    Finally got the subframe tacked together and test fit onto the car!!!!! I just need to weld it out and find a good way to mount the sway bar. I have seen people just taking the mounts from the 2002 subframe and welding them on to the E30 frame. I think that is what I will do, but I don't like it since it goes under the subframe. Oh well...

    Here is a picture of the subframe before I cut off the end. I ended up cutting the end off the 2002 subframe and using the subframe mounts. I have seen people just relocate the E30 mounts, not sure why anyone would do that. I hate the subframe mounts in the E30s in comparison the the 2002s bolt on type. Bolt them on and go!!! No cursing, and whacking the subframe with a hammer when you have spent all day trying to get the old shit ones out and the new ones in.

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    Rant over! I will get some pictures of the finished subframe when I get that done. 

     

     

  15. I wish to start out by saying this part of the build, replacing the headliner,  I wanted no part in doing. For those who have done their own,  I remain in awe of your ability to do so. In my case, I am somewhat limited with space to do the work but more importantly had no confidence nor trust I could do the job justice. So I decided to have it done by someone with more experience. After seeing his work I was more than happy to hand off another part of the build to him.

     

    The next confession I wish to make is that I wanted something different than the stock option.  For the purists who may read this post will likely question my choice for the headliner but the OEM replacement would simply not work in my view.

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    Given the lengths I am taking for this build I did not want to take a cookie cutter approach to the headliner.

                                                                                                                  I had looked at countless samples when trying to narrow down my options but kept coming back to one. Alcantara was the one that checked most of the boxes. For those not familiar with the name,  it has a suede type feel but synthetic material...but not cheap and in my situation not that practical  of a solution given the cost and availability for my upholstery guy.  On another recommendation I found a good substitute, a product named Street Suede- Mocha. It had a  good look and feel and worked well with the plan. 

     

     

    The material  had good stretching ability too, making a nice tight fit when done properly. Reasonably priced and making a smaller dent in an "already" blown budget. Although hard to see in the pics, I went with  the perforated style with black backing.

     

    I think it fits well with the colour pallet I have chosen for the car as shown below. The seats will be done in a brown mocha leather similar to that found in the 2014 M series cars(below).  This pic was the inspiration of the design.  I know brown over black is a not a typical approach to a typical Colorado resto but I think it works well. 

     

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    The carpets will be a German Square weave. I am not sure what will be done with the door cards at this point but I am leaning towards the upper portion of the cards done in black vinyl to tie everything together with the dash and the parcel shelf. 

     

    The console will likely be done in leather...still have a few options to decide on before I am ready for send it off to be finished.

     

     

    The headliner install itself was not much different than others that have been featured here. Although I have added a wrinkle. I am not sure if others have wondered why slick top cars were blessed with those dinky side lights rather than the larger one used in the sunroof version. My guess it was cheaper and less time consuming to mount it in the bulkhead rather than mount it near the front of the car using a piece of hardboard. So with the help of Patrick O'Neil once again,  he fabricated a bracket for a light I rescued from a parts car a while back.

     

    The cool part now is the dome light is on a 30 delay. A small lil modern day feature for my ol' German classic.

     

     

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    Here is the rest of the project.........

     

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    All new seals and the glass is all in ..... pinch moulding too.

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    Just the grab handles and mirror left to do. Visors will be re-upholstered.

     

    Thanks for your time....regards

     

     

     

     

     

     

  16. Ok.  Now that the engine is completely apart, the full scope of the damage is clear and next steps can be planned out.

     

    Here you can see that the bearings are all worn, and the #1 conrod. journal is roasted.  Remember that this is an engine with less than 5000 miles on it since the bottom end rebuild.

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    For good measure, here is a closeup of the burned journal, then one of the main bearings ( #1 on L).

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    This is what the conrod bearings looked like (#1 on L).

     

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    The block and crank are now at a local machine shop getting cleaned up.  The block is fine, but I need to wait and hear if the crank is salvageable, or if I need to buy a good used one.  I also had some preliminary discussion about replacing the conrods with something that can survive turbo HP, and that is looking like it will have an OUCH price tag of around $1500 for the set of 4.

     

    Jose

  17. Got a set of fronts seats awhile back and decide to just experiment and try out some rustoleum vinyl upholstery paint.🎨 Knowing in the back of my mind I would be testing the water and completely reworking both seats with either new vinyl or leather upholstery. So I decide to paint the passenger seat because it was in much better shape than the driver, minimal rips or cracked unlike the drivers seat which had holes in the bolster and seat bottoms. Come to find out after the seat had been completely broken down the seat bottom had been cracked and split two 😞, didn't realize it was even broken until all the foam had been removed 🤔

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  18. Roundeie
    Latest Entry

    Working out some details over the winter. Slow going...

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    Recent Entries

    Welcome to my 1971 2002 tii restoration project. I already have a build thread on the 02 UK forum but I thought I would share my restoration with the faq crowd as well. My name is Chris and I live in Northern Ireland. I have owned the car since April 2015.

     

    I had always loved the 02's though never thought I would buy one. 02's are very rare in Ireland especially tii's. I have literally only seen 3 other tii's in Ireland. One is owned by a guy called Jay who I met on the UK forum. Turns out he lives 5 minutes from my house!

     

    So when I saw a tii for sale locally, for only £4k, I had to have a look. Myself, my dad and our mechanic went to have a look. The car had been off the road for 25 years. The owner had been restoring the car himself for a number of years and was now too old to finish the job. He also had a Verona roundie 2002 for sale as well. It was a perfect driving car which he said he had also restored and painted himself. 

    My car was in primer, though the guy had started to paint the engiine bay in Malaga. He said he didn't like the original colour which was Bristol Grey. No rust was visable and the owner had told us he had rebuilt the engine himself (not numbers matching). Seemed like a bargain, and even though none of us had a clue about 02's we decided to make an offer, straight away it was accepted!

    Plan was simple.

    Take the car to a local body shop, remove the old primer and have the car resprayed in the original Bristol Grey.

    Reupholster the interior.

    Put it all back together and enjoy.

     

    Of course, nothing is that simple. And if something seems too good to be true, then it probably is.

     

    Once the car was stripped back to metal, all became clear. The previous owner was not a talented restorer. The car was butchered. An insane amount of filler, patches of metal welded over rust, even bathroom silicone was found.

     

    We still wanted to save the car so we had the body shop cut out the rust and bad repair jobs. Though this wasn't a place that restores classic cars. The jobs are usually used cars brought in by local dealerships with a few dents and scratches. Now and again they would respray cars but only when they could fit them in around the large amount of little jobs they had coming through the doors. Clearly my car needed lots of attention and it was too much work for them to take on. Too cut a long story short, after a year and a half, and with very little progress, I had enough and decided I had find someone else to do the job.

     

    A few months before this I went to a BMW car show in Co Kildare, Ireland. At the show was a beautiful Taiga green 2002 tii. The car won best in show that day. The owner was with the car along with the guy (Jon Millar) who restored it a couple of years before. I chatted to them for a bit and was very impressed by the quality of the restoration. Heres a link to the rebuild of the green car.  https://youtu.be/epaRupYWOZE

     

    I decided to track the guy down and disscuss him taking my car on. He seem enthusiastic but explained he doesn't cut corners and would only use new panels etc. It was going to be a completely different type of restoration and I wasn't sure I was able to commit to a concours quality job. 

     

    Since buying the car, I'm not ashamed to say that I had become a bit of an 02 "enthusiast". And I had also come to the reality that this was not going to be the cheap and easy respray that I had convinced myself at the start it would be. So I bit the bullet and borrowed a trailer, then took the car from the local bodyshop and drove it 4 hours south, all the way to Limerick to "Classic Carreras". As I'm sure you guessed, they normally specialise in Porsches but the owner Jon Millar has also restored four 2002's and knew them inside out.

     

    Heres his current website; http://www.classiccarreras.com if you wanted to see some of their very impressive work.

    If you want to have a look at the previous 02's and other cars, then its at the old website. http://classiccarworkshop.ie/restoration.html

     

    This brings us up to date. Work started in May and the car has has a lot of metal work since then. 

    Its had new doors, rear quarter panels, inner wheel arches, sills, front panel, boot floor, rear panel, floor panels and a good condition used boot (trunk) and bonnet (hood). In other words, there isn't much left of the original car! The car is now primed and almost ready for paint! Its come a long way.

     

    I have some cool mods planned for the car. Since the engine isn't the original one and most of the panels are new, I figure it won't upset the purists too much making a few little changes. Plans for the car are as follows;

    5 speed - Already sourced and rebuilt from a nice chap from Holland called Michael Uber.

    Reupholster interior in brown leather and change the front to Recaros - Bought on ebay aleady.

    Lux rear seat, the one with the centre armrest - came with the car.

    Italian indicators (blinkers?) - found a NOS set on a German classified website.

    delete lower black rubber trim.

    Fit short pre 1971 02 bumpers - I have bought a set of remake S/S ones from group harrington, not sure how their going to work out.

    Larini s/s exhaust - From Jaymic.

    13 inch MOMO Cloverleafs - Found a set on an Italian classifed website, already had them painted and diamond cut.

     

    Also, after seeing the state of the body work which had been carried out, I wasn't too confident about the previous owners engine rebuilding skills. I decided to get someone to have a look at the engine. After taking the engine apart the rebuilder said it was an awful job. There was even painted body filler on the Kugelfischer and the warm up valve unit, to hide the rot. The engine had to be totally rebuilt. Everything was replaced by genuine BMW parts and it was fitted with a 123 distributor. The Kugerlfischer and injectors where sent off to Lucas Development to be rebuilt.

     

    Hope you enjoy the progress and the photos.

     

    Thanks, Chris.

     

     

     

     

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  19. A fellow ‘02-Montrealler (Pierre*) was nice enough to give me the lower portion of his rear bench (he had an extra one). This put me a step closer to finally installing a rear bench...

    So, now I just needed to acquire the upper portion of the rear bench plus, some new padding/foam and the all-important vinyl upholstery.

     

    I stripped down the rear base, the old “horsehair” padding is pretty gross. I wire-brushed it, degreased it, used a metal etch and gave it a couple of coats of matt black.

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    I ordered the under-pad, foam and vinyl from aardvark racing.

    Unfortunately, I did not take any photos of process/install but it’s pretty straight forward. I installed the under-pad, letting it hang over the edge of the seat frame, then I sowed it in place with a few loops every 3-4 inches around the entire circumference. I cut the foam pad to size and held it in place with about 8 tie wraps so it wouldn’t move while I wrestled the vinyl upholstery on.

    The brackets which held the top of the backing in place were remove I fabricated some new brackets for the upper portion with some l-brackets from Home Depot.

    On Friday, I finally installed the rear bench. I’ll need to fix that wrinkle in next spring.

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    I was supposed to un-register the car for winter storage for October 31st, but I messed up.
    At the beginning of October, I started the online process but didn’t complete it because I didn’t have my registration certificate with me. My memory sucked and I had thought I completed the process… then I woke up on November 1st realizing I messed up, so I had the 2002 available until Nov 30th.

    Yesterday, I went through my short winterize checklist before pushing the car to the back of the garage.

    see you next spring...
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  20. With body nearing completion and engine complete I've been starting to assemble other major assemblies including the rear end.

     

    - new input and output seals on the differential as well as new gaskets

     

    - new brake cylinders and brake lines

     

    - new urethane bushings in suspension arms and sway bar linkages 

     

    - new suspension mounts and urethane bushings in differential mounting bracket

     

    Looks fantastic all together with the replated hardware.  Just need a body yo install it on!

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  21. Paint and body work has begun.  I'll post photos as I get them.  They'll be taking the paint down to the metal so should be some good pics along the way.  Thanks for following.

    October 11th - Mostly down to bare metal, still some areas to remove.  Typical rust spots located. 

     

    December 1st - Added some shots of new grilles and bumper cleanup.  

     

    December 18th - Base coat epoxy primer going on the bare metal.  Next step regular primer.  Will post towards the end of December.  They tell paint early January.

     

    January 3rd - Car is now in primer getting it's last blocking performed.  See bottom of page.

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  22. I think my last real effort was 7 months ago on this project. 

    Made some progress on the carbs worth reporting. This is one of two carbs of course. 

    enjoy and remember this is a work in progress. 

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