Introducing FAQ Memberships 04/17/2017I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested. Everyone starts as a Solex Member. This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150). Kugelfischer membership. As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers. Turbo Membership. As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener. Alpina Membership. As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store. There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.
Our community blogs
With the all the mechanical and electrical elements of my build expected to be completed in a couple of weeks, all that remains is adding all the shinny bits and dressing up the interior. I thought this would be an opportune time to add this information to the list of posts. I was always curious to what extent other 'o2 enthusists had gone with respect to their projects, but was always somewhat reluctant to ask. So I hope some find this helpful or at the very least some what interesting.
I have tried for the most part to list the various stages of my project as they were started. I realize that some who have gone before me, have taken a different approach with their builds but through researching their work, I found this is the plan that worked for me. I also should point out that after joining the site in Aug, 2013 it took me another six months gain the knowledge and confidence to dive into this project. You see the car sat idle in my garage since Oct. 1979 collecting dust, without engine or transmission. Both had been removed prior to that because of mechanical issues, blown snycoros and a seized rings to be truthful. They were repaired the following year but there were a number of life issues seemed to come at me in waves. I was difficult to find the time and resources nor the energy to deal with it.
Now thirty five years later with retirement now providing an opportunity to catch up on a few things and the information this site provides, the once neglected classic became a priority once again.
Here is a brief history of the car.
Produced: Decemeber 21, 1971 Munich, Germany
Arrived: Jan. 5, 1972 Montreal Que.
Delivered : Vancouver Auto, Vancouver BC Jan. 30, 1972
Sold Feb, 1972
Acquired (3rd owner) Aug. 10, 1978 (30240 mi)
Purchase Price: 4500.00 (CND)
Last driven October, 1979 (51156 mi)
- Front brakes,rotors turned and bearings, Vancouver Auto, June 18, 1975
- Right Vent window replaced Georgia Pacific Auto, Victoria BC, Dec 11, 1975
- Clutch, presure plate and throw out bearing, German Motor Corp, San Fransisco, Ca., June 28, 1976
- Minor accident resulting in damage to rear roll pan, repaired No. 1 Autobody, Vancouver, BC, April 1979
- Syncros & main shaft replaced, Nixon Automotive, Burnaby, BC, Dec. 6, 1979,
- Engine seized, Feb. 1980
- New rings and bearing, repaired April 1980, stored as short block until Feb. 2017
Project started Aug, 28, 2015
Condition when started
All original metal no rust repair required
Original doors, fenders, hood and trunk
Original glass and interior
- Soundproofing removed (dry Ice)
- Rockers soda blasted- (Specialty Blasting Ltd., Langely, BC)
- Floor pan soda blasted
- Wheel houses garnet blasted
- Support struts and columns garnet blasted
Body repair ( Panelcraft Restorations, Langley, BC)
- Markers deleted
- Reflectors deleted
- Rear roll pan repaired
- Left Fender wheel well repaired
- Exhaust exit moved to centre of roll pan
Paint ( Panelcraft Restorations, Langley, BC)
- Single Stage (002)
- Two coats
- Color sanded between coats
- Final coat colour sanded and buffed
- Under carriage inner fenders and wheel wheels undercoated
One of the tips gleamed from my research was the importance of bagging and tagging. I did try to catalogue as much of the mounting hardware as possible during the disassembling process. Sheepishly, I admit I was not as diligent as I should have been. As a result of my efforts I managed to misplace a number of these pieces, mainly due to carelessness with moving them around... a lot . I admit I should taken greater care to bag and tag these pieces properly and store them all together. For those anticipating a similar type of build I can not tress enough how important it is to manage this part of the build more effectively. It will save you time and money when it comes time to open them up ready for refinishing or to re-install.
One of the things that always impressed me when I looked at restoration projects whether they be true restorations or mod/custom builds was the extent the owners went to to detail their projects. To be honest I wanted to feel that same sense of pride. I know it's a slippery slope you enter upon when you start with such an approach but at the end of the day I saw no sense in just cleaning up hardware just to have look cleaner rather than something that completes the build in looking new. I realize there is a opinion that All critical mounting hardware should be replaced because of strength issues but seeing I has a complete history of the car I found no reason to go to that extent. That said few pieces I was unsure about were replaced with OEM hardware..
In a few cases where I had misplaced some of the mounting hardware I was fortunate to have some back-up. I had parted a few cars during this build and kept just about every bolt, washer and nut from them. In any case, I decided to have the lot re-plated. Not a cheap process by any stretch but one that I am glad I did. I chose to have them cad plated, a process that is more durable than yellow zinc. The majority was barrel plated but the larger pieces were hand dipped adding slightly to the overall cost.
The only pieces I did not re-plate was the hardware for the window/door mechanism. They were simply washed as they still retained their original patina. no corrosion was visible.
On Jan. 20, 2016, the car returned from paint and with the all the plating completed I started on that long road to put it back together. Here is the work that has been completed since that day.
- Original front sub frame, reinforced engine mount and lower cross support, garnet blasted, and powder coated
- Original struts, torsion bars and pitman arms, garnet blasted and powder coated
- Original Steering box, serviced,polished and re-painted
- Deleted stock backing plates
- Stock 74 lower control arm stitch welded garnet blasted and powder coated
- New OEM drag link and ball joints
- E21 Hubs
- After market Cross drilled slotted rotors
- Rebuilt Gerling 4 piston callipers
- OEM bearings and seal
- Belstien HD struts
- H&R Springs
- ST Sway bar garnet blasted and powder coated
- IE poly bushings
- IE Stainless Strut brace
- Original Rear Frame garnet blasted and powder coated
- Reinforced Sub frame poly bushings
- Tie bars, garnet blasted and powder coated
- Original stock trailing arms garnet blasted and powder coated
- IE Poly bushings
- Original Diff hanger garnet blasted and powder coatedI, IE poly bushings
- Bielstein HD shocks
- IE poly DOT 1 spring pads
- H & R springs
- ST rear sway bar garnet blasted and powder coated, ST poly bushings
- E21 rear backing plates, garnet blasted and powder coated
- New E21 Drums and brake pads
- OEM Wheel Cylinders
- Original hubs , new OEM wheel bearings & seals
- E21 shafts with stock E10 ends, serviced new boots and painted.
- E21 LSD Differential (3.91) serviced new seals and fluid, painted and polished
- Late model cover plate bead blasted and powder coated
- Original firewall insulation
- All original decals and labels
- Original wire looms
- Original Wiper motor and cover
- Hold down bracket polished and plated
- Hood insulation replaced
- Custom Vapour can added
- Windshield washer deleted, SS container to be installed
- All mounting hardware cad plated
- Booster bracket and pedal box bead blasted , powder coated
- Original gas tank, cleaned bead blasted and power coated
- Electric fuel pump added
- Original gas filler cad plated
- OEM gaskets
- New fuel lines re-plumbed
- Original tank and spare tire well covers
- Original pinch mouldings
- Vapor tank deleted
- SS Shock tower brace and battery tray
- Relocated battery
- All original lines polished
- T block, bead blasted and cad plated
- New lines for rear frame to replace original and to fit new MC
- Tii Booster (added)
- OEM Tii master cylinder
- Braided steel brake lines
- Cad plated hangers and clips
- New E brakes cables
- Original Dashboard and gauges
- Original Petri Steering wheel**
- Original Visors
- Original seat belts
- Original door and window controls
- Original chrome threshold trim**
- Original Frt, seat mounting brackets and controls
- Original door and window mounting hardware and fasteners, re-plated where found necessary
- E21 seat adapters bead blasted and powder coated
- Recaro fronts (rebuilt)frames bead blasted and powder coated
- E24 rears and console
- Custom console New VDO gauges & clock
- Custom door cards
- Custom rear seat cards (ash tray deleted)
- Custom Hat Tray, LED brake light bar added
- Custom stainless steel gauge bezels
- Shortened E Brake
- USB & 12V plug added
- Stainless Steel Cup Holders
- Dome light relocate ( sun roof style)
- Custom headliner
- Custom sun visors
- DynaMat sound barrier
- DynaPad underlayment
- German Square weave carpet
- Chestnut brown NapaLeather and black Vinyl upholstery.
- Custom kick panels
- Rebuilt Heater w/late model core
- Late model controls (Illuminated) added
- Illuminated stainless heater control bezels
Engine (Built by Midnight Motorsport, Seattle Wa.)
- Original block magna fluxed and honed
- Forged Ross 9.5:1 Pistons (80mm stroke 90mm bore)
- New rods and bearings
- New mains
- IE windage tray and scraper
- 2 row crank sprocket
- 2 row cam sprocket
- New OEM oil pump
- New OEM water pump
- E12 Head, polished
- IE 1mm oversize SS valves
- New Rocker shafts
- IE Heavy Duty Single Valve Springs
- Chrome moly retainers
- 292 Shick Cam
- OEM timing chain and guide
- Twin Weber DCOE 40
- Ti manifold
- Redline linkage
- 12" Mr Gasket electric fan w/thermal switch
- New S14 starter
- New 318i 90 amp alternator
- IE Silicone radiator and heater hose set.
- Cutom Stainless Steel Radiator
- MSD Ignition
Transmission & Drive Shaft
- Getrag 245 Transmission (parted from 1979 E21)
- OEM seals & linkage knuckle
- IE Speedometer cable
- M3 E36 shift lever
- OEM Reverse light switch
- Shortened E10 shift platform (powder coated)
- Shift platform sound insulator "donut" gasket
- New Sachs E21/E30 Clutch slave cylinder
- New Sachs E 10 Clutch master
- IE SS clutch hose
- OEM Guibo
- Shortened drive shaft
Exhaust Sytem (Built by Midnight Motorsport, Seattle Wa.)
- Stahl Headers ceramic coated
- Custom SS exhaust center exit
- Summit SS Glass pack muffler
- Magnaflow 6x14 Muffler
- Summit Racing 2.5" tubing
- Quicktime electrical exhaust cutout
- Carello H4 Headlights**
- Cadmium Plated Buckets
- LED taillight conversion
- Tail light trim re chromed
- Original LP lights, polished
- European Signal lights added
- Bosch Driving lights (TBA)
- Kenwood X998 receiver
- Alpine SPR 69
- Alpine SPR 60
- Pre wired for future amplifier
Electrical (Built by Midnight Motorsport, Seattle Wa.)
- Original harness rewrapped cloth electrical tape
- Original side markers deleted
- Relocated 12V battery
- 318i 90 amp alternator
- 12V plug added
- USB ports(2) added
- Viper Alarm System added
- Door lock actuators aded
Glass & Trim
- All original Glass*
- All Original Trim* chrome plated
- All Original knee trim, polished
- New OEM trim fasteners
- All original bumpers, chrome plated
- Orinal bumper brackets, bead blasted powder coated
- Original Mud flaps** (re-plated hardware)
- New OEM mounting hardware and fasteners
- Stock F & R OEM over riders deleted
- Horn Style fronts added & chrome plated
- Euro style rear brackets added
- Original Antenna- polished
- All Original Exterior Handles and locks-polished
- Original SS Rocker Trim - polished and gaskets
- Original B pillar finisher, chrome plated
- Original Quarter Window finisher, chrome plated
- Vent Window frames chrome plated*
- Original Door Finishers, chrome plated
- New OEM rubber and felt trim
- New OEM sill gaskets
- New OEM Door Seals
- New OEM Quarter Glass Seals
- New OEM B Pillar Gaskets
- New OEM Windshield Gasket & Moulding
- New OEM Rear Window Gasket & Trim Moulding
- New Gutter Trim
- New OEM Trunk and Hood Gaskets
- Original D/S "Trap" mirror, chrome plated
- Added P/S "trap" mirror, chrome plated
Wheels & Tires
- 15 x 7 Rotas ET25
- 195R50 x15 Bridgestone RE71
* P/S Vent frame and glass replaced because of damage caused by theft
** Original to car upon purchase however I believe to be a dealer option or after market purchase
Thanks for your time.
It's been a while since an update, and I'm happy to say we haven't been idle. There's a few new parts I've developed and released, now on the website and into the hands of fellow enthusiasts. Hoping to both share the news and maybe gain some feedback/insight into what else might be needed and desired...as I often times am most inspired to create parts that fill a void in the market both style and function-wise.
Here are a few of the recent offerings:
replacement under dash panels with accommodation for a deep 5-1/4" coaxial speakers
Center console insert/shifter surround with dual cup holder
aluminum (brushed, polished or satin black) and wood (or leather) e-brake handle "upgrade kit" with matching leather brake leaver and shifter boots
(full details and descriptions/pricing at www.kooglewerks.com)
It’s been quite a while since I last really dug into the BMW 2402tii. My wife ended up going back to school so most of my dreams of getting the car road worthy this year are out the window. I most likely will not be able to afford the big pieces for quite some time. That was a bit like knocking the wind out of my sails.
I have decided to plug on anyway. I will try to get a solid foundation. I should still be able to get the steering and plumbing worked out. As well as clean, sort, and seal the underside of the car. I might even go back and redo some of my previous work. With a project like this one as my first I know that my skill has improved, from non-existent to not too terrible.
Enough babbling, on to the updates!
1. I found a steering column! I found a link through a mustang forum that a GM electric power steering column could be retro fit. The assist is built into the column so it can be turned up, down, or off. It is controlled by a potentiometer kit that you can get from Ebay for ~$50. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/670865-anyone-want-100-electric-power-steering-here-you-go.html
2. I have shifted the driving position rearward to help with leg room and weight bias. I never had an intention to put the back seat back in
3. I have built mounts to use NA Miata seats. The current ones I have are from pull-apart and being that this is Michigan, they are extremely rusty. Still for $23 they are good enough for mock up.
4. The AR5 transmission that matches my Ecotec is HUGE. I’ve had to considerably enlarge the tunnel. I’ve been putting off this sheet metal job for the better part of a year. I finally tackled the driver side and closed it all in.
5. I primed and seam sealed the whole side. This is most likely the floor section I would be most likely to redo.
6. Finally I covered it all with bed liner and threw everything back together.
Of course the next thing I did was sit in the car make engine noises and pretend to shift. I do need to get the car on the ground and see just how bad ingress/egress is.
Mocking up. Looks like I'll need a spacer in the front. Just tapping the strut. Rear is money. Time to get flares!
Then - I need to continue the mechanical. I need to take the motor drop path. This car will take forever, but I dig that. I know it will be a stunner when it's done.
- Read more...
- 0 comments
Recent EntriesLatest Entry
What a wonderful turn out for the First 02P BBQ and Picnic end of summer/car season event!
I want to thank Rick Row from the North Bay Bavarian brigade who brought out some special cars and it was such a pleasure to finally meet Forrest Koogle from KOOLGEWERKS!
I want to also give a HUGE THANK YOU to BAYAREA02 for help contributing to this event and others who also wanted to contribute towards the catering from Lombardi's in Petaluma.
Thank you to Patrick from Bill Arnold's who helped with driving Derby and local North Bay neighbors Luke Thacher and Delia Wolfe who helped with transporting equipment and food to the event.
I wanted to host a small social event dedicated to 2002s and NK's to share with the enthusiasm we have with our cars. Its always a lot of fun sharing and showcasing our vintage mobiles with others and just the drive alone out to Stafford Lake is a fun drive! If you haven't driven the backroads of Marin County, it is a must to do! I believe by doing these small exclusive events with Bay Area 02ers, it builds our community up and gives us an opportunity to meet those that we communicate with behind the computer/phones. Anyone is invited from anywhere... this is not just a North Bay event. Even Dieter from Sacramento came out to the event in his glorious schwarz e21!
I met some new friends and great to catch up with those I haven't seen in a while!
I look forward to hosting some more events in the near future... In the meantime, if you are ever in Novato, I do host the 02PCC every last Sunday of the month at Marin Coffee Roasters. There's always a good group who come out for some coffee and donuts! Hope you can come out to one!
Hair up my arse started at about 3:30 this morning. Couldn't sleep so I wandered out to the garage and pulled the rear glass and the pass rear window. Knocked off about 6:30 when my wife and son woke up. Didn't get back to the garage til about 3pm. That's when I decided it was time to rip off the quarter panel and start getting down to business. I was pleased to confirm what I had always suspected about this car. It's solid. It may have a ton of bondo in it, but there is very little rot. Looking forward to peeling back the layers like an onion and either straightening the existing metal or removing the required panel from one of my donors.
- Read more...
- 0 comments
Having given up replacing the wheel bearings when refurbishing the rear suspension, I returned to the task once I had rearmed with two new axle-end castle nuts. I couldn't move the nuts at the time, so having limited time to complete the work, I left the bearings in place to be replaced another day.
I bought a new impact wrench as my old, single hammer wrench didn't touch the nuts. Sure enough, the new wrench, after working away for a while, removed the nuts as requested. As I was removing the right hand side nut, the hub came free from the stub axle. This seemed a lot easier than the usual script, which sees pullers and even heating the hub to get it off.
The bearings were knocked out with a punch easily once I realised that the internal spacer could be displaced to give access to the outer race to apply the punch evenly around the outside. Once both bearings were out and everything cleaned up, I realised that there was no spacer shim included. This is likely to explain why the hub separated from the stub axle so easily (though equally I didn't have any obvious bearing problems). I greased one of the replacement bearings and installed it from the rear using the bush /bearing pulling tool that I have plus the gland nut for a stock front strut that fits nicely on the outer race.
Having installed the inner bearing, I took my vernier calipers and measured the depth of the installation shoulder to the face of the bearing (61mm) and measured the length of the inner spacer (64.2mm) so with an end float of 0.1mm, I needed a shim of 3.1mm. Unluckily for me, the 3.1 shim is NLA so I purchased a 3mm shim from the local BMW dealer. This cost me $53 AUD for a part available in the states for $11USD but I could get it quickly (10 days) so I went with that. I figure that it is better to have a slightly larger end float of 0.2mm than none at all.
Having obtained the shim, this was installed with the outer bearing which was tapped and pulled into place using my bearing puller. The greased seals were then installed on both sides, followed by the stub axle slid and tapped into place. I put the hub and castellated nut in place and finished it off by pulling the stub axle into place by tightening with my impact gun. Once the drum was back on, I added the wheel and lowered the car of the jackstands. Then after doing some arithmetic on my weight and the length of my breaker bar, I proceeded to tighten the stub axle up to its final torque. This saw me tighten using my torque wrench to 150lb ft (as high as it goes) followed by me hauling on my long breaker bar until I could applying my full body weight (250lb) to the measured length of my bar to give the required 295lb ft.
A further small project also needed to be completed as a follow on from the suspension work. The right hand shock, lower mounting stud had disappeared and the PO replaced it with a bolt which was undersized. I had put it back together using the bolt pending arrival of the correct parts from Blunt. The correct stud is a press in design with a knurled section similar to a wheelstud. To install, I got it started in the hole with a few taps from a hammer before installing the shock and then pulling the stud into place with the nut and some judicious use of my new impact wrench to tighten and pull the stud into place.
Old bolted connection for lower shock mounting.
New knurled bolt, washer and nut.
Bearings removed and old grease cleaned out.
New lower mount installed.
Bearing being wound into place with puller (and stock front strut gland nut).
Stub axle back in place, just awaiting drum and a good old tighten.
so another evening in the garage and another step closer to finishing the car, a few bits went on tonight, the grills and the wipers.
i also managed to wrap the new parcel shelf in a brown material i found, just to cover up the speakers.
might do this black if the brown doesnt fit in with the rest of the interior.
- Read more...
- 0 comments
Lots of activity in the car build but not a lot on here so thought that I had better try to be more diligent in posting something
Just got home from the upholsterer and have a little of the sweet and sour taste in my mouth. Originally my intention was to take the Scheel seats in get recovered and then find an e24 rear seat to match up later, but after seeing what has been done with a stock rear seat I figured what could it hurt to see how it turns out.
So today I dropped off the door and rear panels and he mentioned that he was finished my seats, and asked if I wanted to take them home. We went into the shop and the first thing I saw were the Scheels, but the centre section just didn't look right for some reason and felt a little let down, but then i got a look at the rear seats and LOVED THEM!! Couldn't believe how different they looked, almost to the point where I considered bringing him my stock fronts to do them the same way.
After driving the hour and a half to get home I immediately took the rear seats, the only ones that could fit in the All Road, and placed them in the barren cab to see how they looked, and the sweet taste made me smile.
My door cards weren't good enough to recover so going to have to order a new set and take them back, when I go pick up the front seats. Just need to match a carpet from Esty and a headliner and maybe my wife and kids will sit in it again....
Recent EntriesLatest Entry
As I started down the road of my BMW 2002 restoration I wanted to document what I have done and will be doing. I want to start by expressing how impressed I am with this forum. Every time I post or need help I receive it, this truly a lesson in “ask and ye shall receive”. So a big thank you to one and all for the comments and feedback on various topics. Being new to the BMW world, but always wanting to have been part of it, makes this forum a truly invaluable tool.
I found my 1969 BMW 2002 locally here in the San Francisco Bay Area. The owner was the original purchaser who bought it new in the summer of 69’, queue the song. The car had been sitting under a cover for the past 12 years not running or started since. I knew I had my work cut out for me but owning an original California 1969 BMW, bought originally from a dealership in Palo Alto, was too much to pass up. The owner had 90% of the receipts to include the original purchasing agreement showing an AM/FM radio was an option back in 69’, and a $149 dollars one at that. For those younger folks reading this that was a lot of money back in the day. In addition, the custom paint code 058(Bristol), was also a special order but at a much cheaper cost of $50. Isn’t that amazing, a radio was more than the special order paint. The car was clearly showing its age sitting under that cover but one thing I noticed was the lack of any major rust. That alone in my mind was a good sign of things to come. The car having sat for so long would not start but another good sign was the ability to turn the engine fan, yep engine not seized, good sign. So I pulled the trigger, we settled on a fair price, and I called the towing company. Watching that car get dropped off in my driveway was a great feeling. My wife of course looked at me with the look of “does it run.” “Nope but look at her, she has great potential.”
As I started doing research on what shop could resurrect this beauty in the making, one name kept coming up in the Bay Area. Other shops even told me “oh we don’t work on something that has sat that long.” However a few were kind enough to at least drop a name, that being Bill Arnold. For those in the Bay Area they probably know this name. Bill has worked on BMW’s most of his career having also raced them. So I said to myself if anyone can do it, this guy definitely can get it done. I scheduled with Bill and made plans to have the car towed there. I was immediately impressed meeting Bill, seeing him take one look and telling me “this has potential, I think you did ok.” Of course for those buying a used car this is when you breathe a big sigh of relief.
My initial conversation with Bill went as follows, “this will be a daily driver or at least a few times a week so reliability is key.” Bill said “ok, then those dual side draft Weber’s are probably overkill unless it has a fairly large cam. Let’s put a simple Weber 38DGES on it.” I said, “As well I'm not looking to perform an engine swap since this is an original numbers matching 02.” “See if you can get it started so we know where we are as it pertains to the long block.” I also let Bill know “a Getrag 245 will be coming your way so expect the 5 speed conversion.” “Call me with whatever you find and let me know where we stand at least on the engine”
Within a week Bill calls me and says “good news, I got her turned over and started, even with the side drafts.” At that point Bill started going through all the usual maintenance suspects. He put the downdraft Weber on and checked compression. More good news, all cylinders above 150PSI, and another sigh of relief. So far so good. Oil pressure was not where it needed to be and of course the oil pump needed to be replaced. Once that was done and he had an operating engine, at least in its most basic form, he decided to take it out for a quick spin. Bill made it around the corner, and as he was pulling into his garage the water pump exploded. He recommended while we go through the cooling system we send out the radiator to have it re-cored to 3 row and drop to a 71 degree thermostat. Of course, I was like “totally agree.” At this point we had a solid engine at least from a starting and running perspective. However, the factory 4 speed, not so much, multiple gears in very bad shape according to Bill.
Meanwhile, I had already contacted Dave at Aardvarc Racing for a Getrag 245 and conversion kit. For those that have worked with Dave, he’s a great resource for many of the typical 02 upgrade parts. He’s an owner as well but more importantly has a lot of great advice about what he has found over 20 plus years of owning these cars. Dave shipped the transmission and all the hardware directly to Bill. Bill installed everything and confirmed we had a good functioning 5 speed overdrive. Oops, now the Brake Booster went out, better to occur on Bill than me driving down the freeway. I called the folks at 2002AD to order a rebuilt brake booster as these can no longer be had new. They were very helpful and have a ton of old parts by the way.
Now roughly 1 month in, he moved onto the undercarriage to examine the suspension, brake, bushings, etc. Of course he had to replace control arms and bushings. At this point I had more decisions to make as the struts and springs were collapsed. What do I do, call the guys at Blunt Tech. “Hey guys, send me that suspension kit, H&R springs, ST Sway Bars, and Bilstein HD’s.” I also ordered strut and shock mount replacements. While Bill had everything apart I called the folks at Ireland Engineering and ordered Fixed Camber plates for the front as well as their Shorty header, downpipe, and stage 1 exhaust system. I know as you read this you’re thinking this is turning into being a large project. Yeah, I agree, I’m thinking that as well. What I learned from this forum is all these items I have mentioned eventually need to be addressed one way or another. I’m just choosing to do them all at once over the course of a few months to ensure I have a road worthy vehicle to drive to work as needed. Owning a BMW 2002 is not for the faint of heart if daily driving is the goal. It’s a commitment but I do believe one that returns years of pleasure if you perform the standard upgrades and utilize the information so many have shared on this forum.
60 days in we’re making progress and getting close. I asked Bill while we are getting close to finishing what else could you see us doing to make this an even better running 02. Bill replied, “Well if you can get your hands on a 3.91 E21 LSD, jump on it if you are so inclined.” I get off the phone, call Aardvarc, “Hey Dave, got any 3.91 LSD’s laying around?” “Not right now he says, but I will in a week.” Fast forward two weeks, LSD on its way to Bill. Again can’t say enough about the following vendors/partners when you dealing with west coast 2002’s.
- Bill Arnold BMW Repair
- Aardvarc Racing
- Blunt Tech
- Ireland Engineering
Between them you can almost fulfill all your needs in one fashion or another. Of course I had thought about Korman or TopEnd but since I wasn’t looking to get an engine rebuild performed I passed for now. However they too appear to be very solid resources. For now I’m finished with mechanical as I have a solid running car. Next chapter will be off to paint…….
Link to pictures - Jeff's 1969 BMW 2002
Hello once again!
I haven't posted for a little while but recently passed 10,000km on the 2002 and figured I should update the build! Other than a coolant hose failing (my fault) and the bottom of my Recaro seat collapsing (I hope not my fault.) it has been smooth sailing. Haven't done too much to the car other than enjoy it. Here is some of my adventures...
For the past several months, no work on the car has gotten done.
The shop in VA that I have been working at moved to a new location, and so from the months of May - July we have been packing boxes, moving shop equipment, tools, 10 years of build up stuff, and cars. The new shop is slightly smaller, but WAY better. We moved out of an industrial park about a mile down the road to a new, private location in Charles City, VA. Cuts, scrapes, a LOT of sweat and swearing, but we got all three bays cleared out, cleaned up, and moved to the new shop by Midnight July 1. For the "work weekend" in July, we went shooting. And I'm guessing for the work weekend in August, I'm guessing it will also NOT be about cars - maybe a James river float or something else relaxing to do on a hot, humid Virginia day.
In June I picked up a set of Alpina wheels (for free) and a spare set of axles from a friend who was also moving and needed to clear stuff out of his garage. SCORE! I'm not sure if the wheels are 5.5 inch wide or 6.5 inches wide.
I have been thinking about the build quite a lot. The rust is extensive, yet fixable. And I've already tackled some of the bigger areas.
Now that the front fenders are off, I found a small patch of rust on each side going into the cabin that I am guessing is pretty common. A patch will fix it.
I'm going to replace the front fenders instead of trying to fix mine. There is not that much wrong with them, but I'd really like to just be able to bolt on new ones instead of cutting and welding and cleaning the old ones.
The rear fenders both have rust in the arches that was hidden. The arch panels will fix it, but are just as expensive as fitting in flares. Man, it is really tempting to flare out the car and run some wider tire with a little spacer to push the wheels out. But this goes against my desire to have a basically stock car. Going down this route is what has kept me from driving my heavily modified 914. Though if the wheels I got are the 6.5 inch wheels, I may have to flare it out for them to fit right.
Once the rocker panels are fully welded closed again, the next BIG task will be the trunk. Its daunting, and will probably be several weekends of effort to clear and repair.
The reality is that almost every panel of this car needs some sort of rust repair. That the shock towers are solid is some sort of weird godsend.
When I did my 914 the first time, it took me three years from buying it to the first drive, and that was with the car in my garage, here in York PA. I have started thinking about dragging the BMW home to work on, but I enjoy and need the break from life to go down to VA and work on it once a month. I've had the BMW now for just over a year. Hopefully its not another 2 years before I am able to start it up for the first time and drive it around.
As I mentioned before, the goal of this build is to build a car that meets the regulations of group 5 while implementing modern technology to make it faster. A set of the rules is located at https://argent.fia.com/web/fia-public.nsf/whistj?open . The specific rules im following are the 1976 versions since that is the year of my car. I will cover in brief the simplified versions of the rules as i have read them. I would ask if you have time please read them as well to make sure i haven't misinterpreted anything.
The Main rules are in articles 268 and 269
Part A states the minimum acceptable weights as a dry weight(actually at end of race but lets add a safety factor)
Part B ) The shape of the body must be retained but sections can be removed for weight savings. The Doors, hood and trunk may be made of different material but cannot change shape.All but windscreen material can be replaced. The Fenders are open but must retain the wheel arch shape and cover at least 180 around the tire and the full width of the tire. The interior is open but the driver should remain in the same area of the vehicle, with no sharp edges present.
Part C) The block must be same as the original vehicle with displacement open. It must also be in the same orientation as the production vehicle.
Part D) Gearbox and diff are open but should remain in same location in the vehicle
Part E) The suspension type should be the same type as the production vehicle but points can change location
Part F) Steering system is open
Part G) Widths should match chart based on displacement
Part H) Brakes are open
Part I) There must be a safety cell. It may not be in drivers compartment or engine compartment.
Part J) Aero Devices may not protrude out past the frontal projection of the car. Front splitter may not be longer than 10% of the wheelbase as measured from the furthest forward point on the original bodywork. It must also be installed below the plane of the wheel hub. The rear wing may not exceed 20% of the wheelbase as measured from the outermost part of the bodywork
There are more rules in the earlier sections regarding cage material layout and size but that's a bit too technical for this post.
Now time for me to explain the game plan. I have taken lots of inspiration from articles and pictures i have found on the internet. The most helpful was a speedhunters article on the Zakspeed Capri. It had great explanations as well as great pictures of the car less bodywork. http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/02/fire-breathing-neck-snapping-the-ultimate-capri/
Chassis - The main frame structure will rely on a 4130 Chomoly tube frame structure that will include all the major mounting points. This means both front and rear sub-frame structures disappear in order to reduce weight. Also the whole front clip will be removed. This frame structure allows for easier repair and modification to meet the needs of the car. It also increases the structural rigidity of the vehicle. This frame structure will also replace the rear of the car and provide safer mounting for the Rear wing and fuel cell.
Suspension - Both ends of the car will have the original parts replaced by custom structures in order to reduce weight and have better kinematics since point dictation is free. Both ends will receive coil-overs with external reservoirs. Hubs will be upgrades to a modern 5 lug BMW setup in order to easier obtain aftermarket big brake kits and for easier choice of rims. Rims will stay a traditional 3 piece but with turbine fans in order to aid under-body air extraction. These wheels will be complimented with modern race rubber. Steering will be converted to forward mount Rack and Pinion Setup(I work for a steering company, its easy to get a spare one)
Driveline - The Motor will stay an M10 Block but the head choice hasn't been finalized. The plan is to sleeve the engine down to 1.6 liter or a similar size that allows an already in production race piston. which will be paired to a lightweight con-rod. AS with the spirit of Group 5 the car will have a nice healthy turbo mounted to it. The goal is for around 450HP at the crank. The exhaust will have a side exit just before the passengers door. The Motor will also be equipped with a dry sump system and an external electric water pump. The Radiators will be moved rearward to in front of the rear wheels. This is because the front will have an oil cooler and intercooler. The transmission will be a 6 speed sequential that can either be set up for lever or paddle actuation. The rear differential will be from a newer BMW that can handle the power. The engine itself will be shifted back in the car balance out the weight and to reduce the rotational moment of inertia.
Aero - The front will include a larger front spliter with side shields in order to maximize the available front downforce. This will transition into 2 small tunnels that open to the suspension area. The Front fenders will vent on top and out the back and include wing elements before the wheel to produce extra downforce. The side of the car will have large sideskirts in order to minimize air bleed over. The underside will be flat bottom until after the rear diff where a diffuser will be located. The diffuser will extend past the bodywork slightly to help with downforce. The rear fenders will house the radiators so they will have a forward intake and the air will be routed to vent in conjunction with the rear wing. Extra winglets will be mounted on the fender behind the wheel as well as the lower section of the fender will be used as a smaller diffuser section. The rear wing will be mounted with large endplates and in a location as to balance out the aero. All bodywork will be replaced with fiberglass except the roof. The doors hood and trunk will only change material not shape.
Other - For safety and easy of use an airjack system will be mounted in the car. Also a fire suppression system will be mounted in the engine compartment. The dash will be replaced by a digital readout. The engine will be controlled by an aftermarket ECU from MOTEC. The race seat will be a proper FIA approved seat.
The car will most likely look like Formula SAE met Group 5 which is basically whats happening. Let me know what feedback or questions you have about my plan. I haven't covered everything and there is still plenty of time to change things.
Gettin' er goin'
The Eurokracy car show takes place the week before the Canadian Formula 1, Grand Prix. Now that I have been invited/accepted in the show in shine, it was time to make sure my car was up for it, and the long drive.
I hadn’t yet started the car with the new Spanish DCOEs but with 10 days until the show I was feeling confident.
So here’s where the new trouble starts. Show (minus 2 weeks)
Documented in my “help” thread (starting on page 5) https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/183166-help-getting-it-going-timing-weber-dcoe/?do=findComment&comment=1177820
I finally got the 123tune, Spanish DCOEs + new throttle linkage installed... Time to fire her up and drive off in to the sunset.
Unfortunately, things did not go as planned, I could not get the car to idle. After playing around with the carbs and turning the idle speed screw in a fair amount (up to 1,800rpm+), I was able to “idle.” Once the motor was running, so was the fuel, dripping out of stack #4. I assumed the leak was associated with the float level, which I reset that using the dipstick method. Still a fuel leak, I rechecked fuel pressure regulator setting, still had a leak.
After some investigation and the purchase of a VAC gauge (+ help from 02 folks), it turned out to be reversion and the fuel was actually being pushed out of stacks. I followed a lot advice from the thread to pinpoint the issue with no luck. Finally, 3 days before Eurokracy I gave up on my investigation. I decided to put the old Italian carbs in, I wanted to see if the problem still existed. It did not, no more fuel leak and motor idles at 900rpm.
So, if I wanted to make the drive to the show, I would have to keep these on and deal with the new carbs later.
Wednesday night (show minus 3 days), after fooling around with the idle mixture screw, I took the car for the first spin of 2017, it was also the first time I drove it with a heavy foot. I took the car up to 100kms (60mph) on the service road, it was fun and no issues. Finally, some good luck.
It didn’t make sense to me that swapping the settings from the old DCOEs to the new would give me this much trouble. I contacted redline, Bud Pauge has been helpful. He suggested a few things and recommended that I order the low speed idle kit. I ordered it and will get to this in the future when I have some free time… and after the show. If none of that works, he said I could ship the carbs to him for inspection.
On Thursday (show minus 2 days), I was riding high from my little drive, so I decided to purchase my Eurokracy show ticket (entering in the show and shine). The plan for Saturday was to leave Dorval, pick up Ernest in Laval, then Kosta in Blainville, then drive to Eurokracy in Mirabel. On Thursday I managed to install the seatbelts for the back “seat” of the car, and paint the wiper arms which hadn’t yet been installed.
Friday (show minus 1 day), in classic Ernest fashion, Ernest bailed on the show, meaning I wasted time installing the seatbelts for nothing. Never the less, I took the afternoon off to prep the car for the show.
I installed the IE strut brace.
Step one, wash it. I used the chemical guys snow canon with their honeydew soap.
I started with the mothers paint polish, while Kosta worked on detailing the interior. I went to soccer, had a few beers, came back to finish off the job with some mothers carnauba wax. I polished the wheel lips, and the steering wheel center. I dressed the tires with me meguiar’s high gloss endurance gel.
I installed a commemorative sticker I made to celebrate the 2002’s restauration.
It was almost 3am, so I went to bed.
Saturday morning (show day).
As I mentioned, I live in Dorval (Montreal), Kosta lives in Blainville and Eurokracy was in Mirabel.
I took off on highway 20 e and then highway 13 n, stopping at Ultramar on the 13 for some gas. When you’re doing 110km in this car it feels like you’re doing 140km.
Everything was going smoooooooooth until I got back on the highway from the gas station. The accelerator pedal popped off the nubs!! I managed to avoid pulling over and just used the pedal rod behind the pedal to continue the drive to Kosta’s. Once at Kosta’s I popped the pedal back on.
Next stop eurokracy!
We headed back to the highway for iCar, after another ~22kms we arrived at the eurokracy traffic jam.... waited an hour and 15 minutes to make it past the entrance and park in the show and shine section. The whole drive went smoother than I could have hoped.
Kosta suggested I lock the doors before leaving the car to chat with old friends. I locked the driver door, trunk and then the key got stuck in the fn’ passenger door. Something which had never happened before. After 20 minutes of trying different things, the key had, had enough and snapped. Luckily Ernest who was probably not going to come to the show, went to a spare at my place and showed up... AND TOTALLY REDEEMED HIMSELF!
Met some old friends and chatted with some good people. It’s a cool show, the setup, location and the crowd. The Eurokracy boys do a great job and help “put Montreal on the map,” we’re fortunate to have such an event. I got some free merch for being invited to the show and shine which was pretty cool and unexpected.
I had to take off at 3:15pm because of some family obligations (which I was late for, anyway).
Photo taken by Ernest who may have gotten a photo radar ticket on highway 15s.
Losers can be Winners!
The guest judge for 2017 was Ezekiel Wheeler (Contributing Editor, European Car Magazine). Apparently it was entirely up to him if my 2002 was worthy of a prize.
I couldn’t make it back for day 2 (Sunday), but I received a text from Rick informing me that I won “Best Euro,” which I assume is like a the best of the rest, like if you don’t win best of your category you have a chance going up against the other 2nd places. I picked-up the trophy from Rick... and paid him off .
Not much has happened since I bought my 2000 in July 2016. It's been under a tarp at my family's house waiting for me to retrieve it and bring it back to SF to start the teardown..hoping to make that happen this fall. I have ordered a few small things for it though... first is a new model designation badge for the trunklid. Being produced in late '66, my car originally came with the 2000 lettering above the trunklid trim line...definitely proved hard to find, but BTS Autoteile really came through:
I also just ordered a set of plates for the car. I'm still quite far from registering the car and driving it, but I wanted to be sure to get the plates I wanted:
That's all for now =)
- Read more...
- 0 comments
Recent EntriesLatest Entry
I love the look of a vintage roof rack on a 2002. I searched for months trying to find one but had no luck. I was able to reach one company that makes them but they only had a limited supply and would not sell me one. So I decided to make my own, kind of. I purchased a VW bug rack off ebay and decided to modify it. It was quite a bit of work because It was too tall as well as too narrow. So I started by chopping the legs, all 6. I got it to as low as I wanted it and welded some new metal feet to the bottom of the legs that fit in the rain gutters. Then I had to figure out how to widen the rack, that was the hard part. I cut the three cross bars in half and added about 2 inches give or take to the middle of the bars and welded them back together. For the base of the rack, I left that in tact and instead, welded a 1.75" metal piece to the rack sides where the base connects via a screw. I'm super happy with how it came out. It's not going to be carrying any couches anytime soon but it's strong enough to carry some camping gear or whatever.
The first pic was taken while I was still working on it. The last two pics are the finished rack.
It seems like more often than not, I start these blog entries with a statement about how “it's been a while since I posted/did anything/blah blah blah”.
This one is no different. If you want to get to the car progress skip to the mug shot of Shop Manager Poncho.
Its been a while since I posted an update, but I have excuses!
The last one was February and now it's July, which makes me feel like a lump.
I did continue to work on the car for a portion of the time between now and then. Recently though, we moved out of our rental with a one car garage and into our first home which has a detached 2 car garage!
Most of my weekends in March and April were consumed with house hunting and mortgage chores so I didn't get much done. We moved in the first weekend of June and have been setting up things ever since. The house is mostly unpacked and the garage is coming together. I inherited a 4 stroke leaf blower and weed wacker from the previous owners and bought a Cub Cadet. That brings our cylinder count up to 30 not including the '02 in Maine.
There is a slight sag in the center girder of the garage so I have plans drawn up for replacing it with a W8x24 I beam and other goodies. Once the I beam goes in I will be able to utilize the area above the garage as a nice
doghouse for when I'm in troublestorage area.
The small workshop in the back will suffice for now. I got some pegboard from Lowes for 10 bucks so that will help with organization for now. It's so much more space than what I had. It's a great size (for now).
Also, I got a great Craftsman 33 gallon compressor for a six pack of IPA. I think the seller just wanted to show off his awesome garage and new shop air system...
Obviously I have plenty of plans for the new place, after the I beam goes in, I'll be running a 220V line from the garage sub panel and picking up a AC/DC TIG welder. I have my eye on an Everlast PowerTIG 200DV right now. They are a great bang for your buck from what my research tells me. Don't tell my wife.
So last time I ended with my installation of the rear driver fender patch panel.
After that panel went in, I moved on to the driver rear quarter patch and learned a few more things during and after the installation. Most notably I found that you want to planish the weld spots with the on dolly method kind of heavily, but not too heavily. If planishing was making grits, you'd want them to be “al dente”.
When you tack weld the panels you add a little material then cool it rapidly which causes the metal around the weld to shrink. By planishing the weld, you flatten the tack weld out and effectively add metal to the shrunken area of the panel releasing the inward dent you just created. This is obviously an acquired skill, one that I don't fully or even half-ly(?) possess yet. It's like golf - how hard can it be?
The panel went in nicely using the same weld, planish, grind technique. The old one had about a 1/4" of Bondo on it. This car has clearly been well damaged over its lifetime.
I had a little warping so I tried to planish it out with limited success. Then I tried heat, which was the completely wrong thing to do. I was on a role so I figured, why not? And found out quickly why I should not. The patch panel warped even further and took me even longer to get it back to a point I was somewhat happy with.
I moved to the front of the car and pulled out the HVAC panel that goes between the engine bay and the heater core. It's welded to the inner fender wings in a few spots and welded to the center hood release bracket in a few million spots.
Once I got it out, I began cleaning it off and finding some pitting and holes in the panel. I will be cutting them out and welding in new metal. I'll have to replace some of the metal on the hood release bracket because there is so little metal left from where all the spot welds were.
Then I started looking at the very first welding repair I did to the car, the passenger inner wing which connects to the frame rail. It looked gross. I hated it. It came out. Along with that I cut out the passenger frame rail that I fabricated. There was just too much distortion from rust in the engine area. I couldn't justify leaving it there. So I cut it out and destroyed it, effectively making it impossible to undo what I had just done.
I fear that I'm turning into my father by keeping everything. To combat the transformation I destroy anything I think I might need in a year or two so that I am forced to throw it away. Anyway, I purchased a new passenger frame rail from W&N. They were having a sale, and with the flat rate shipping they do now, it was over $100 cheaper, not including shipping, than from our North American suppliers.
The new one came in and I started fitting it up, checking all of the chassis dimensions from the nice binder W&N sent me with all the exploded views, chassis dims, and badge placements. I guess they feel sorry for you once you spend a certain amount of money with them. I was pretty shocked to find that everything lined up within their plus/minus 1mm tolerance from the factory. I was able to breathe a sign of relief.
I started remaking some patches that I had done with the flux core because they looked absolutely terrible. I was able to use the bead roller to make a similar contour to the factory passenger foot well.
I have to make the bottom part of the passenger inner wing again unless I can source a donor for that area. If you have one available please PM me.
That's pretty much where I left off. It was hard to keep moving when I knew I was going to have to pack it all up and move the whole project. I just started slowly packing the garage instead of working on the car.
Now we are comfortably settled in at our new home so work on the car is starting to come around again. Hopefully more updates coming soon...
P.S. Good on you if you got the My Cousin Vinny reference.
Its a classic tale of a 19 year old kid buying his dream car, driving it, rebuilding the engine, and before he knows it life makes him put it all on pause. 20 years later he finally gets to start the process of bringing the car back to life. My good friend Erik agreed to partner with me on the restoration and with that we started with the first steps. Day one involved much cleaning and organizing. 60 lbs of dry ice, some popping and cracking and the floors were free from the tar paper. This trick is well worth the $150 in dry ice. As its been stated before. The more the better. Outside of the typical spots around the heater box and pedal box the floors are cleaner than we were expecting.
(Note to admins and readers- I couldn't format photos on this post correctly! Any time I tried to click a photo to edit it, it brought me to new page and lost all my previous saved writing! So, sorry the photos aren't like I want them to be...)
I've used a few epoxy primers, but in terms of protection, ease of use,customer support and price, SPI's epoxy primer is easily the best for me. So I ordered some paint and prepped up the
garagespray booth. Since it is not a real spray booth, I am very dependent on the weather for being able to paint, and it just so happened that I got the perfect weekend weather-wise for using epoxy a couple of weekends ago: mid 80s during the day and mid 70s at night, low humidity and no wind.
Everything went on smooth with 2 coats on everything, except for the bottom which got 3 coats. After it set for a few days, I went back with some 3M seam sealer ( photos towards the bottom ) everywhere I had welded, to make sure any pinholes would stay water tight, and then hit those areas with another light coat of primer as well.
My next step is to get it rolling so that I can move it around a bit more easily for the filler work. More on that later!
- Read more...
- 0 comments
After getting the car back from paint, I was happy with how it turned out. My buddy who is a painted shot the car for me.