• Announcements

    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


Our community blogs

  1. 02PCC NORTHBAY- 02s and NK's will now be a regular gathering every Last Sunday of the month!


    Join us on Sunday April 30th 9am -11am


    466 Ignacio Blvd. NOVATO 94949


    Marin Coffee Roasters is holding their special round-about parking lot for us and distributing FREE coffee for drivers only with a TESORO card! Donuts will also be provided by BAYAREA02.

    Hope to see you there to enjoy our beautiful spring weather!

    Yay for car season!


    Screen Shot 2017-04-25 at 8.51.07 AM.png

  2. Well it's been a while since I have posted (again). As before, the tempo of work has slowed and now I am tackling things as they arise and as the opportunity presents itself.  Since my last post, I have fitted my 123 Tune + distributor which I am now having fun (in a good way) playing with the tune.  I should probably write a post on that on its own just to document what I have done installation wise plus, of course, how I have tuned it. Bear with me if you are tuning in for that, I will get to that later on.


    While investigating a no-start condition, I idly triggered my multi spark CDI ignition having blindly been cranking the engine for some time. The bang as the cylinder full of fuel and air mixture ignited was massive. My ears rang for the rest of the night and it took a few minutes for the smoke to clear. My wife came running out of the house, convinced that I had finally killed myself as I came blinking out of my shed.


    Once I had figured out my problem with the 123 and got the car started, I detected a changed quality to the exhaust note plus a notable 'chuffing' from underneath. The explosion had knocked a hole in my down pipe and blown a chunk out of the sealing flange between the down pipe and resonator. To be fair, both were in terrible condition. The resonator had seemed solid enough but was red with a granular rust all over. The downpipe looked like it was related to Frankenstein as it showed the scars of being welded many times. As the RHD downpipe has been unavailable for many years, this had been patched over and over to get through. I had always had a small exhaust leak somewhere up front and this had been my number 1 suspect for some time. 


    Since I had finally killed my exhaust, this gave me an excuse to get something better. I am a big fan of stainless steel exhausts on classic cars so this was my chance. I considered getting the Ireland stainless exhaust but then rejected it for a number of reasons. Firstly, as I needed a new downpipe and Ireland did not make a RHD version, I would need to get this from Jaymic in the U.K.  From some limited research I am happy to declare Jaymic as the sole source of RHD exhaust down pipes in the world. Rather than double up on shipping it made sense to ship from a single source and get their exhaust as well. Secondly, the overall price was OK - not because it is particularly cheap but because the pound sterling (GBP) was getting hammered due to Brexit. Export trade being a silver lining for the Brits. Thirdly, I am not really looking for anything more than a mild upgrade. The Jaymic system does this through decent mufflers but uses stock sized piping. This means less problems in getting it to fit using stock hanger locations, brackets etc and no gaping 'coffee can' at the rear, just a nicely polished tip.


    The exhaust itself is well made, fits well and sounds good. Jaymic gets them fabricated by Larini Systems Ltd in the U.K.  Looking at their site they obviously know a few things about performance exhausts. https://www.larinisystems.com/technology/lightweight-mufflers so I am expecting a reasonable life out of this exhaust. For various reasons, I did not fit the exhaust myself as I would normally do. Instead, I dropped it and the car off at a local Mom and Pop exhaust specialist for the fitting and to get a bung welded in to the down pipe for a wideband O2 sensor as I am planning an AFR meter to assist with tuning sidedrafts later in the year.  I also dropped off a fitting kit, bought separately from Jaymic, with gaskets, hangers and clamps within. The mechanic used the supplied bolts in the flanged joint between the down pipe and the resonator. This joint is crucial, not just for leak free operation but also as a means to keep the exhaust in adjustment and not knocking. After a few return journeys with knocks and rattles, I realised that the problem lay with this joint and the ability to clamp tight enough to stop the exhaust from rotating. The supplied boots were 'necked' and had been tightened until the threads bottomed out. I replaced these with hex head set screws with thread down their whole length. This allowed me to get more bite on this joint when tightening, fixing the problem before I had to get in an argument with the specialist who wanted to tack weld my exhaust. No hard feelings, I would go back there!


    When the exhaust was off, we discovered that the existing exhaust manifold had been broken and bodged in the past. A large chunk of the flange had come away surrounding one of the downpipe studs. This had been bodgied up with exhaust cement and was another late entry in the category off suspects for exhaust leaks. I needed a new exhaust manifold so I got him to get his cement out and bodgie it up again until I could replace it. Hitting the FAQ wanted board, Facebook Australia and eventually, the U.K. board wanted, I got hold of a great replacement for my 'rare as rocking horse shit' manifold (at least in Australia).  I got a good deal on one shipped from the UK. Wire brushed and coated with Eastwood high temp paint, it was ready to fit. A new cylinder head gasket (finally got an E30 one with the heat shield) and we are all good. 



    Label on the centre section




    Laid out. 




    Detail of the down pipe. 




    Detail of the centre resonator. 




    Rear muffler




    Polished tail pipe tip. 




    Replacement exhaust manifold. 




    Break in the original manifold and welding on back. There was no stud installed prior to removal. 




    Reinz E30 exhaust gasket.  This hangs up slightly on the threaded bosses on the RHD manifold for the long lost heat shield. A few punched holes with a screwdriver sort that. Note that the right hand threaded hole is actually straight through to the exhaust runner. I scratched my head for a few minutes as to where the exhaust leak was coming from. M6 bolt fixes it ( though I need to trim it down). 




    A view from below showing the flange between the manifold and down pipe. Much better than the lash up of exhaust sealant and leaks that I had before. 



  3. larryt
    Latest Entry

    Hi All, 


    after my recent trip to NYC and a very busy few weeks organising my upcoming wedding, i was left with little time to get to the garage to work on the car. the other issue was the state of the garage after a few months of neglect and never putting tools/parts back where i found them.. so i decided it was time for a spring clean!! 


    i was having to pull the car out of the garage to work on it as there was no spare space in there (due to rubbish, parts, shelves) so, i pulled everything out and spent the afternoon cleaning it out and re-arranging the tools and parts. im pretty happy with the result.




    feeling rather impressed with myself, we pushed the car into the garage and pursuaded her up onto the stands, ready to start stripping as much as possible to be cleaned/stripped/painted/powdercoated/replaced/repaired.




    ive come across a few issues and i am hoping someone on here might be able to help!!


    1. I removed the nuts from the steering arms, i cannot get the spline out of the holes, any of them.. help


    2. the studs on the manifold are cheesed up and the bottom rear one is literally round now, i cant get anything on it.. ive tried a grinder but nothing will fit in the gap due to the steering box/downpipe in the way.. anyone had any luck using other methods to remove this?




  4.  I'm having the exterior of the car dustless blasted (water) next week, so today I spent time removing all of the aluminum trim and other associated clips from the car. A few trim removal tools made easy work of the trim and it is in very good shape for me to re-attach.   To my surprise, there was no rust underneath any of the rain gutter trim and only limited rust around the chrome in the windows. Overall, it was a pretty easy process and I look forward to having the car blasted next weekend. I'll be sure to post a video and pictures. 




  5. collard greens 2002
    Latest Entry

    The M42 found its new home. Fitting in the shell like a glove. Also did some white gauge overlays with red needles





  6. 1dollar93
    Latest Entry

    Just a small entry for today. The tires on the car were cracked and dry-rotted, a consequence of sitting in a garage for a few years. I'd been pricing out my options for replacements on the 14" Bottlecaps, but as many here know, 15" tires are more available and cost effective. I'd seen the E30 "Style 10" wheel posted here very infrequently, and though the wheel looks far more modern than the 2002 design, I feel like they stay in character with the vehicle. I found a great set available and jumped on them. I gave the wheels a fresh coat of wax throughout and paired them with Yokohama S.Drive in 195/50/R15.


    The fronts stand a bit proud of the fender with the 24 offset, but the car will receive new suspension with camber plates before long and that will be remedied. The car is still scruffy, but I think it is starting to look like someone cares for it again.



  7. magnus
    Latest Entry

    Hopefully you don't mind if I wander a bit and talk about my other BMW. The 2002 has been on semi-daily driver duty while it waits for a big batch of parts from Rogerstii to get started on some basic maintenance. 




    I bought a tii fuel tank to replace mine, which is kinked from one of the Brass Rat's two rear end smacks. I'll refurb it on a rainy day and put it in when I go through my fueling system.




    On Monday I dropped in to Mountain View SMOG Test Only Center to have my M3 tested. I had a good feeling when I saw the white E46 M3 parked in front and started taking notice of the stuff hung on the walls. I looked in the back and said, "I know that shape..."






    I knew I was in good hands with Mike. His '74 has a half cage/roll hoop and sport seats - he says it's his track car. The M3 is his daily. The M3 passed with flying colors, and I have a new go-to SMOG guy.




    The M3 has been very busy over the past week. It was doing daily driver duty to the office...




    On Saturday it did a big 260-mile loop around essentially the entire Bay Area, attacking some windy new roads in Marin with my friend Jon's Euro 190 2.3-16.




    Dropped in on a friend on the way home to encourage him along in his project...




    Hit up the Golden Gate CCA cars and coffee event at SF Sports Cars




    Wanted to check out this car but he was on the way out as we arrived:




    Through it all the M3 never missed a beat. I rewarded it with a wash and new/old Formel steering wheel.




    The next big update should be after the Brisbane Swap & Show in early May! I should have plenty of photos and hopefully some stories to share.

  8. So, I just started this blog and already I feel like I'm slacking. Weather got cold here in Minnesota again, so it's been tough to want to be in the garage. But yesterday and this morning were pretty nice, and I had a couple days off so I was able to do some interior tear down on the '76. 


    As I mentioned in my first post, the car sat in a field in central Illinois for the better part of a decade. Mice and other creatures had been calling it home, and most of the interior was chewed through or rotten. Lots of mold and mildew, etc. So much of the items I pulled went straight into the trash. I did try to salvage a few things and have been doing my best to keep up on labeling hardware as I remove it. 


    This is NOT a strictly by-the-book restoration project. I have never been satisfied with stock anything, and while I find the 2002 beautiful, this one is going to be a mix of restoration and modification (I've coined the completely original and never-before-heard term Resto-Mod. Very chic, I know, feel free to adopt it to your vernacular, free of charge). With that in mind, much of the original equipment is up for grabs. PM me if you see anything you can't live without. Except for this pencil I found under the carpet on the passenger side. It's staying with me, so don't even ask.



    I think this car was equipped with AC at the US dealership. But it is possible that it was installed after the fact. I know they didn't come from the factory that way, but some US dealers would install them. I don't have plans to reuse it, but I know that it is somewhat desirable for many. The hoses had been rubbing on the tire where they were routed through the fender and into the cab. So I cut those to get them out. And unfortunately time had not been kind to the plastic trim around the vent unit, as most of it was cracked and brittle. Still, if anyone wants the AC unit I'm happy to part with it.


    After 6 or so hours between yesterday and this morning most of the interior is out. Only had to drill out 2 screws that were beyond rusted in place. Happy to say that most of the panels appear sound, save that nasty hole in the driver's side floor. I knew there had to be some full-on rust somewhere. Thankfully it's not too horrible (forever the optimist) and seems to be isolated to that panel. Everything that carries any sort of load seems ok (suspension mounting points). We'll see once I get the front fenders off if there's anything hiding. A lot of the sound deadening broke away pretty easily (no dry ice needed...yet) and underneath was mostly clean metal, so that's promising. I have a feeling there has to be more rust somewhere, being a sunroof car and all. Speaking of the sunroof, I was able to get that out, but the roof panel and sunroof-carrying sections are a bit out of sorts - I'm told neighborhood children used to play around on the car and likely jumped up and down on it more than once. I'm currently deciding how best to either repair/replace/retrofit the sunroof situation. But there's a whole lot to do before that.


    On to the pictures!



















  9. Well, we got the First Start (yay!), followed by our first setback. (“Start” video here.) The setback (two days later) was doing a compression test, when the engine locked up. It turns by hand (as if it was a clock) from Noon to about 10:00, and then back; somewhere there’s a mechanical blockage. We checked the flywheel (it was fine) so the next step is to check the internals of the engine. Tonight we’ll use a borrowed scope to peer into the cylinders (via the spark plug holes) and see what’s up.


    As part of our project objectives (#1: Have Fun; #2: Meet People), we’re hosting “Garage Nights” where we invite friends to watch us work and hang out. Four down, 18 to go!







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    Recent Entries

    Edgar L.
    Latest Entry

    Sold my old my beloved squaretail to jump on the chance to pickup my new project, thought I had every piece to restore another car from what i had accumulated over the years but had a rude awakening when I found out this early car is a different animal.

    It is a solid example only showing a quarter size rust hole in the spare wheel well and some light patina on the body. All seams look good am excited to start with such a clean shell, I do believe the major factor of preservation here was the lack of sunroof among others. Complete opposite of my cancer ridden 02 that did have one and caused me years of turmoil (8) through all drainage points and seams...



    Back to dear Sahara,


    This is what I got back from bmw archives:


    Dear Mr L,

    Thank you for your email.

    The BMW 1600 VIN 1524947 was manufactured on May 11th, 1967 and delivered on June 05th, 1967 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Sahara, paint code 006.

    We hope this information is helpful for you.

    Yours sincerely,

    Julia Oberndörfer

    BMW Group
    Julia Oberndörfer
    Archiv, Sammlung, Classic Brand Management  
    Historischer Informationsdienst
    Moosacher Straße 66
    80809 München


    This car does not have the original drivetrain :cry: and instead has been outfitted with front and rear 02 sub frames,rear 230mm drums,  e12 head engine overkill sway bars, suspension techniques springs and Bilsteins... ok so it's a bitter sweet deal. 

    Interior is a mix of old and new... late model dash but early euro shifter console and platform assembly, late seats but early slider mechanism, late door cards but early door handles. Body as well, late model nose trim but early swan mirror, euro trim early grills and signals.

    It does however retain its original remote booster single circuit brake system and original mechanical clutch system which I am preserving.

    Plans are to get her roadworthy and slowly start to accumulate some more original bits. Got a few questions so far.
    More on the car and my plans later. For now some starter pics...






  10. This part is still under construction as is the rest of the engine. However this was a nice juncture to show progress and direction I'm headed. 

    Plan to have working valves and springs made of cardboard. Been working on a design which actually has "spring" action for opening and closing the valve. 

    More on that later. Still need to make the cam, valves & guides, plus the rocker arms.  


    enjoy all the segments from the beginning to show the evolutionary build. 


  11. Being back from abroad was a bit weird .. Everyone who's been in the situation know, that it takes a while getting used to the "old" daily routines. 

    None the less, I was practically only thinking about one thing .. Getting the car done. 
    And let me just tell you this now .. The project has gone way out of hand. The amount of money spent on this car, could easily buy me a nice tii'. 

    But is a tii really what I want? No .. 


    As earlier mentioned, I bought this car from Sweden, and it all looked fine on pictures. What we soon realized was, that it had had a front end crash, a long with many other things .. This resultet in me buying a NOS front end, two new front fenders, two new doors along with new rubber all around (this was not cheap btw ..) 

    But here it is, sitting at the bodyshop with it's glorious new front end which was a perfect fit! 

    In approx. 1 month, this car will be sitting as new (well, almost) in terms of the body .. with the flares being non original, obviously. 

    And don't worry if you notice the arches being way too wide .. The german guy I bought them from, told me they were a direct replica of the original ones, which they weren't, so I bought some different ones. 




  12. Nut and Bolt Restoration is an often misused phrase, but in this case that's exactly what I've been up to.   All fasteners and bracketry have been wire wheeled or glass bead blasted to bare metal and freshly replated.    Now as I enter the reassembly phase, each component will have the appearance that it would have when leaving the factory.


    Sure, replacement hardware is available, but it lacks the aesthetic originality.  The small thin washers, short headed bolts, original markings, shallow castle nuts and original finishes are just not available at the local hardware store.  When finished, everything should have that "just right" look to it that can't be replicated with anything but the original bits.








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    Recent Entries

    Latest Entry

    I was able to ground the temp and gas gauge only to find out that my fuel sender unit is broken. I'm not sure how hard that would be to repair. The high beam stalk came in and I installed that. 

    Things left to do:


    Wipers aren't working. I don't feel any power going to the motor. I'm not sure if it's the motor itself or if it's the relay or what. I also still need another wiper.


    I still haven't found a driver side mirror.


    Looking for the bushing for the gas pedal.


    Fix/buy a fuel sender unit.


    Bleed brakes as they feel a little deep. Also, when I pump the brakes with the car off, I don't feel any pressure build up. Would that mean I have a bad brake line somewhere?


    She's almost ready to pass inspection, so If anybody has any tips or leads on parts I would greatly appreciate it!








  13. Now that I've laid most of the ground work out for the car to be running and driving, it was time to go to the body shop. I can't have a car that's all f’d up after putting this much time/money into it. The major issues to resolve are the rear quarter damage, filling the huge gaps from (jason rose) doing a horrible and careless job cutting the rear wheel wells for the turbo flares, painting the engine bay/nose, fixing misc scratches/ dents /rust bubbles etc. Hopefully it will be done in a month (early april ‘17). Until then I'll be continuing the interior refurb and some other misc projects I have around.


  14. Roundeie
    Latest Entry

    Got the sunroof back in with a bit of trial and error. Fit is ok just a slight passenger side height difference.



    Also installed heater box and dash. Mocked in the gauge cluster to fill the hole. It will be removed before permanent installation.



    Added H4's w/city lights and a relay/fuse harness. Will install the driving light brackets when they arrive. Thanks, Pierre.


  15. 2002VT
    Latest Entry

    The striker had a washer in it to make it fit. Removed that and adjusted the door - it shuts!  So happy!  




  16. Well, finally retrieved my head from the machine shop, Area Machine in north Denver.  They did a great job....




    My valves were getting worn and a little pitted on the top, so new valves were put in...




    New rocker arms, shafts, springs, washers, thrust washers, etc...




    New valve guides put in....




    They machined the upper timing cover to match....




    Now back to Mark (my mechanic) to put it all back together properly.  He is currently working on a 74 tii that has an S14 in it, but I'm right after that one.....


  17. Briefly:

    A cam-shaft from Elgincams under extent of compression 9,5

    Head of the block of cylinders from e21 320 with the carburetor under extent of compression 8,1.

    Therefore it is milled from a head - 2,5 mm. Also new the valves, a chain, axes of rockers, etc.



















  18. IMG_4878.thumb.JPG.8622cd089157f5c100c9766a24ff0049.JPG

    I picked up a radiator for a 1994 Honda civic 1.6l (auto with air conditioning) for <$35 shipped on Rockauto.  It filled the stock radiator opening almost completely.  We will have to wait and see if this radiator is large enough to cool the 2.4l that is now in the car.  I am hopeful the auto and ac options added to the cooling capacity.  The description of this one did also say that it was a few mm thicker to offer additional cooling.  I will also add the Civic electric fan as well.  The reason I chose this route is purely cost based.  This will let me get up and running sooner because it costs less.  More than likely I will have to upgrade in the future. 


    the radiator is mounted to the car using the boxed section behind the air dam.  I will add a pair of grommets to act as isolators between the chassis and radiator.  The top is held in place with a simple bracket tying the radiator to the core support.



    The next project of the weekend was building an exhaust manifold.  I did not want to use the stock one, purely from an ascetic point of view.  I have also always wanted to give header fab a try.  surprisingly it wasn't too bad.  The most difficult part was getting enough heat into the flange without burning through the tube.  Cutting and welding the tube sections together was not bad at all.  Having a good saw to make straight cuts was crucial.


    I started with a generic collector that had the four primaries and a 45 degree bend.  I then picked up a 3/8" flange and a pile of 1-5/8" u-bends.  The all in for this header was around $175.  Not bad, but it will end up wall art when I add a turbo down the road.


    Had to throw in a few beauty shots now that the car is starting to get more together.  The 1600-2 is a 69 built in 68.  The 68 Texas plate I had lying around looked much more classic than the 69 (just looks like a worn out plate).




  19. I spent some more time trying to remove some of the paint and extra trim.  The wire brush method was working well but it is still quite a bit of effort to handle.  I tried some paint stripper which worked well on getting the paint up fast but it only worked on one layer and didn't get the bondo.  I found depending on the area that there are at least 4 different paint jobs on this car from various prior owners.  So I switched back to the wire brush grinder.




    To take a bit of a break from all of the grinding I started working on closing up some of the extra holes.  I like the cleaner look with the lower trim removed so I welded those all up.  I want to remove the front bumper and am debating going bare or adding an air dam.  I plan on converting to the Euro bumpers on the rear so I started closing up the holes for that along with the US reflector mount points.




    I cleaned out the interior sound deadening in preparation for a fresh start.  The prior owner installed a sound system and cut holes in the rear window tray as well as under the rear seat so I closed those up as well.




    I removed the transmission, driveshaft, axles and differential.  I got a hold of a LSD that will be going in and am working on tracking down a 5 speed Getrag 245.  It's nice working under the car when it's all clean.  Hopefully I can keep it that way over the years.




    There was a small rusted area in the passenger footwell that I cut out and tried reforming the shape as best as I could and welded in the patch panel.



  20. IMG_3115.JPG.42b4a1b9848d33c7db60f2f07b93f183.JPG

    After 6+ months at the paint shop, I finally brought the car home in the pouring rain and began reassembly right away.  I'm really happy with the color and work.  I thought I would be able to put it all back together and have it running within a week but thats not the case.  While everything is disassembled, I keep finding new things to fix before I put it all back together which is taking me down multiple rabbit holes.  Some of the things that have held me up is replacing the sunroof drain tubes.  What a pain and i found out that the paint and body guys drilled through the tubes when they put the door seals on so that's why I spend days trying to yank the tubes out with no success.  I'm also finding new electrical issues I didn't have before paint and body.  And the brakes are rock solid so I need to replace the brake hoses.  I am really happy with how the interior I made is looking in the car and the cheater trim I put on.  I also really like the mix of old badges with the new paint.  I think it gives the car character.  I do need to figure out something with these bumpers.  



  21. Made some progress on the differential mount this weekend.  Running an E36 dual ear cover on the E30 case.  Note that you need an E36 speed indicator wheel and sensor to get the cover to fit on an E30 diff.  Since I am going to use a GPS speedo I just pulled it all out.  Used a piece of right angle and then welded some nice and thick hangers to it before final locating of everything.  (Still need to finish running the weld bead along the front side in the last picture.)








    We (well Bruce really) decided to get fancy and run some additional reinforcement through the body since the sheet metal is all pretty thin.  These posts are welded to the diff mount re-enforcing plate on the bottom of the car and will then be sandwiched between a second top plate which will be tied into the roll cage.  Should be plenty beefy when its all done!




    Once we get this all buttoned up the next step is to figure out the rear sway bar mounting.  Not a ton of space to copy the E30 layout...



    As some of you may have read already, I have been having some issues with the factor throttle set up. I decided to build my own linkage that would eliminate the slipping throttle arm. I had tried different fixe, including welding on a clamping collar to the throttle lever / arm, but it slipped anyway. So, I went out the junk yard and pulled a throttle bell crank out of am e36. The older ones are made of metal - aluminum actually. I knew it would fit directly, and since I don't have the equipment to weld aluminum, I decided to recreate it out of metal, and 3/8 rod.

    This it the original metal cut.


    The arm after I bent it to match the OE e36 throttle bell crank, with the rod tacked in place.



    This is the e36 arm side by side with my creation.


    Another side by side shot. I matched the bends, because I had mocked up the mount with the e36 bell crank, so I knew the profile would work.


    Here is another side by side shot, with the rods cut to the right length. The top rod is where the spring goes and it pivots on two steel bushings, that are from a pulley I swapped into my Jeep. The bottom rod goes into the 2002 pedal and rides in the channel just like the original 2002 throttle lever.


    This is the new metal throttle bell crank with the end that will receive the cable end.



    And, the part installed, before I cleaned up the welds. The design is pretty straight forward, and the arm is fixed in place by the spring pressure that pushes it again the trans tunnel. Now, I have to paint all this junk, lube it up and check it off my list. This should provide plenty of torque to manipulate the bell crank that pulls the ITBs open.




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