I’ve reached the light at the end of the tunnel on my rust repair journey. Over the week I replaced the lower driver’s side rear 1/4 window sill with new metal. I used a technique coined by YouTuber, Fitzee called butt & cut. Some of y’all have probably seen his videos.
All that’s left to do is epoxy the exposed metal and then flip my car around so I can begin installing the passenger side flares.
Original metal with lots of pitted rust and pinholes. 🤮
My tuner added a Hondata tune to the stock Honda ECU and that allowed him to turn off all the check engine codes. Power is smoother too. I can now say that the car accelerates as well as my Stage 2 Golf R! Obviously not as composed or solid, but way more fun for raw power. It really is the perfect car; stock on the outside but party under the hood!
Today I also changed the hats on my front struts. This stopped a clunk I've been having since I first got the car. I previously redid th
Nothing like starting with the biggest most tedious job on the entire restoration. It will certainly be a huge step forward when the body is all stripped, prepped and painted, but it is certainly quite a lot of work. I figured I'd go about this large sections at a time. First the interior, then engine bay, then trunk, then underbody and finally the exterior. With each large section I'll strip it, take care of any little bit of rust that I find, prep and prime it.
Starting with the in
It's been a few weeks since we got to work on the car with business and life taking a priority, however, good news is that we now have all the body panels we need for our 1602 build!
Was lucky enough to have a friend that went to a 02 garage sale and snagged some fiberglass Aplina style pig cheek flares for us at a great price we couldn't refuse!
And recently having gotten a hood, trunk, and 2 doors, now all that's left to do is test fit everything and fini
So last blog post tracked the issues relating to the first test fit in the 1600 and a whole bunch of stuff that needed sorting after that test fit. As you may remember, the lips on the inside of the frame rail was preventing the S14 header and the steering box from clearing and lifting straight into the engine bay. So while I was waiting for the injectors to arrive from the UK, I decided to use my angle grinder to notch the inside lips of the frame rail. When you do this procedure, it require
BMW used two different clock designs on the Tii. The earlier model (used up until 1973) is the Kienzel clock, which is electromechanical. It uses a mechanical clock mechanism with is wound electrically. These clocks are usually pretty easy to fix when they stop working. The other type of clock (used in 1974 and up), is a purely electronic clock, with a circuit board, transistors, resistors, etc. Any one of these components can cause these clocks to fail, and I have not found a repair. My s
The whole challenge of moving around the world and bringing a car is a HUGE PITA. Luckily for me I met some beyond generous and supportive car friends here. The range and depth in which I can emerse myself into 02 things is a lot. Jeffery Kok has been the most amazing 02 ambassador helping me get all of my cars (2002, e46 touring & e30 touring) sorted. Although I only have the 02 garaged, bummer. I hate having the e30 outside, but garage space is expensive and in short supply. Thankful
Between weather and life I've had virtually no time to work on the car. Finally the last couple weekends I was able to get back to it for a bit and removed all the insulation on the inside of the body. I used a combination of dry ice for most of the insulation that was along the floor and a torch for the parts that weren't. Overall it went fairly easily, but there were certainly some areas that were more stubborn than others.
Nice thing about using dry ice is the clean up is very eas
It's been a long time coming for me to do this and just had to start. I'll be doing my best to document all the happenings with my 02 and where I venture to. To give you a brief history, I've been living around the world for the last 15 years but grew up in the SF Bay Area. I was actively involved with Bay Area 02 and running in rallies like the Alpine 500, Shamrock Rally and Snowball Rallye. I miss those days.
02 wise (we) did the first version of the M
I had plenty of time to work on the 1600 over spring break. Honestly, I thought I’d get more done, but making sure the flares blended nicely with minimal body filler took time and effort.
Below is a rear IE flare blended and painted with a high build urethane primer. I left the edges unpainted for now. There’s a couple spots where I cut through the epoxy primer surface and I want to repaint those areas with more epoxy.
I still have some fine tuning to do on the fro
A car is a lot more compact when it is all put together. Parts take up a lot of space. This is the expensive part. I’m trying my best to limit that but sometimes you don’t have a choice. Other times, you do and still decide financial burden. I mean, reuse all the old (perfectly fine) crappy components on a freshly painted car? I can’t bring myself to do it. However, I can reel myself time to time in the name of expediency and frugality(a real word?).
I have been quite busy since the last
I had everything prepped for pulling the engine way back in late fall, but it took till now to finally plucked the motor. One part of that delay was that it took some time to rustle up the hoist from my buddy. Once I had that piece of gear in place it took another good chunk of time to have my friend on hand for moral and technical support since I had never pulled an engine before.
We finally planned to get together on a warm Friday last week, and I was all set for the big day. I
Welp, in my last post I was pretty excited about grafting my original front fender with replacement metal from a W&N fender. For a month I worked on the driver/front fender whenever I had spare time (about 12 hours total) only to realize that the top horizontal edge began to angle downward as you moved from the door to the turn signal. A big bummer.
Not dwelling on the mishap I immediately bought another fender from W&N and had it on my doorstep in four days.
So cuz it was cheap. A lie of all lies right?
I bought a seized engine out of 2021 F40 BMW M135i xdrive, 225 kW. Will this jorney ever lead to fruitation as in means of suplying a force to move a vehicle I do not know. I consider this a mental health project
First i stripped wiring harness and a few water hoses off and then it was time to remove oil pan for inspection. Rod bearings were toasted! #3 was worst. Mains looked fine but this was just caps off so no idea of upper shells
So after getting an old oxy acetylene welding setup and ruining a scrap door trying to learn how to weld with it, we have officially started welding up our Cattle Chaser! Started with the nose panel, there was a rusted spot which we cut out and tacked in the new piece of sheet metal.
Afterwards, all the gaps were filled and the nose panel set aside for the time being. Next it was time for that rear end!
I had the chance to visit a friend of mine over the wee
Hello! My name is Geghard Ohanian, or "G" for short, and I am the owner of Heritage Gruppe. Two years ago, during a road trip with my girlfriend and business partner Alynn, we discussed the idea of finding an old car to restore. Without hesitation, I started searching Craigslist for any cool projects that we could revive. It was then that I stumbled upon a rusted, beat-up 1969 BMW 1600 project listed for sale in Nipomo, a city a few hours north of Los Angeles. Although the photos were low resolu
Well got around to installing the trunk pan and tail, original was hit before I got it, plus rust… so figured it just replace it all.
it wasn’t too bad, I got the MVP pan and tail, only minor adjustments were needed. The biggest issue was the tail had been replaced before so when I removed it the gap was signification from rear quarter to tail. I decided to weld it on inside as well as outside and will have a seamless look.
So, after sorting out the S14 flywheel, clutch, pressure plate clearance issue with the Getrag 245 transmission debacle, I decided that it would be wise to test fit the motor/trans and subframe installation and see if any adjustments would be needed. Well, turns out adjustments are needed. First off, while lifting the subframe, motor and trans on the motor jack while subsequently lowering the car it turns out that S14 header and the steering box hang-up on the inside lip of the frame rails on
BMW m10 Piston Stress Test(u30)
The pressure is 75kgs-cm2, which
corresponds to the pressure at the maximum power of a standard motor. the weight of the piston is 602 grams, the material is alloy 2818-T61
the analysis showed that the maximum stress is formed at the edge where the locking ring stands, the yield strength is not exceeded for this material. The maximum displacement of the material was 0.025 mm, on the piston heat belt.
the yield strength is exceeded at a pressure on the
I don't have the illusions that I'm some kinda experienced shade tree mechanic. In fact, most everything about this project that I'm encountering on a day to day basis is some kind of first time moment. I hope this gives a little optimism to gals and guys looking to get into maintaining old cars and maybe they think they're not fit or smart enough or experienced to take on a challenge and learn something new.
I've decided for a car that needs everything phase 1 will be rebuilding the
I'm still plugging away at the '67 1600.
I didn't like the fitment of the front pig cheek fenders, so I decided to blend them into the metal front fenders. Unfortunately, my original fenders were rotted around the turn signal housing and rocker panel. The W&N replacement fender was ok, but did not fit as nicely as the OG. Then I had the genius idea of using the W&N fender as a donor to bring the original up to snuff.
I am a real amateur at welding and body work,