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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

Blogs

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  1. Started six months of Vintage Prep with a gathering of local 02 friends. And a Mike Self gif!

     

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  2. I was finally in a position to set an entire day aside to work on the 2002 today. (Well, really about 4 hours.)  The first item on the agenda was removing the reactor/exhaust manifold and installing a new header as part of removing the emissions controls.  I will try to make an article out of this emissions control removal process.  But not today because, you know, gauntlets.    

    Today I discovered 3 things: 

    1) The Previous owner or his mechanic tried to remove the manifold/reactor before.  2 of the 4 upper bolts were actually loose and all 4 lower bolts that you access from under the car were stripped. I should have known something was up when all of the nuts to the heat shields came off so easily.  

    2) You can't get a pair of vice-grips onto the nuts under the manifold because there isn't enough room.  Why?  Because my car has A/C and the huge compressor sits under the manifold. 

    3) You can't remove the compressor without removing a lot of other components.  The compressor bolts are not accessible and the compressor bracket bolts attach immediately behind the fan.  A couple of compressor bracket bolts were missing, meaning I'm following in the PO's (or his bad mechanic's) footsteps.  

    4) Normally, to get to the water pump for example, you can pull the radiator, remove the grill and go through the front of the car with a long ratchet extension. I thought maybe I'd do this since I have to replace the water pump anyway.  Nope, the A/C condenser and an auxiliary fan sit in front of the radiator.  

     

    So one way or another, I'm going to have to pretty much remove the entire A/C system from the car before I can finish with the manifold/reactor/header.  

     

    Oh, and I think I mentioned earlier how bad the fluid leaks are.  I spent a full day cleaning the engine from above, but I completely neglected to get underneath.  There is anywhere from 1/8 of an inch to 1/2 of an inch of congealed oil covering the bottom half of the engine and all of the front suspension components.  Now it looks like I'm going to have to clean everything by hand and I won't know where the leaks are until I get a few more parts off the car and the block cleaned up. 

     

     

    Here's a shot showing the A/C compressor and the lack of space to get anything bigger than a box wrench into the space by the manifold. No way a pair of Vice Grips will fit up there. Note the missing bracket bolt from somebody's prior attempt to remove it. 

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    Here are the compressor mounting bolts up by the fan. 

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    Here's the A/C condenser and auxiliary fan in front of the radiator. 

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    And this image pretty much sums up how far I got today.  Heat shields off, a couple of connections off, that's it.  I put the plug wires back on to avoid damaging them.  

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    So I did not get as far as I had hoped today.  That's pretty normal.  There is one small silver lining to all this.  While I was under the car, I found the Weber air cleaner cover C-clip that the previous owner lost a long time ago.  It was embedded in about 1/4 inch of oil sludge. If the engine had been clean, this would have bounced out ages ago.  

     

     

     

     

     

     

  3. Havent actually posted in ages, not because i havent been working on the car, its the contrary, ive been there as much as possible evening and weekend and really working my socks off to get it finished before its just too cold to work on it. since my last post ive managed to install the new hardlines up front for the brakes, the new flexis to the calipers. fitted all the braking bits and got the system ready to receive the re-conditioned Master Cylinder.

     

    i should have taken some before pictures of the M/C however here is an after shot

     

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    this was an original part which was re-conditioned by a company in england. really happy with how it came out and the turn around was really quick and reasonably priced.

     

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    fitted up :) went in like a dream

     

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    ive also ordered all the service bits for the car so i can fill it with nice new fluids before we start it up 

     

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    note: the oil filter is wrong! ive sent them an email and i am getting a new one soon

     

    slight disaster with the servo :( the bleed nipple sheeered off inside the body, going to have to drill it out and replace before i can bleed it all.

     

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    :'( makes me sad, was so close to getting it done today.

     

    on a positive note, getting closer to a final decision with the center console, and even finished the speaker pods to give me some back pressure on the front mids and to stop any phasing of the speakers.

     

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    made from heavy duty cardboard tube and filled with sound insulation to dampen any vibrations

     

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    a final shot of the console mocked up.

     

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    will probably change the orientation of the ashtray and button holder as there is some depth issues with the ash tray. the whole console will eventually be flocked in black to help it tie in with the interior of the car.

     

    this week: hopefully will get back to the garage and get the pesky broken nipple out and get it fitted back up, a good thing which has come out of this, is it gives me a chance to clean the servos and paint them before they go back in. its just more and more things to do before the january deadline

     

    wish me luck 

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    Recent Entries

    adawil2002
    Latest Entry

    I have posted all the pictures in the initial post and will be updating this every other week or as I receive updates from VSR.

  4. Out of town this weekend for a football game but the shop had a display set up for the autoshow- Kyle asked if he could take my car and since I wouldn’t be using it I had no objections. 

     

    Car is just about complete - all that remains is to put on the new rear bumper and resolve an odd ground with one of my turn signals 

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  5. Got some peg board for the front doors. Time to remount the top door trim and then lay down the leather. Not sure if I'm going to use finish screws to mount or use the plastic clips. Truth be told, don't want to use the snap in clips because they have the potential to break & it's less holes to drill into the board. 

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  6. So, I've been busy selling off some of my cars, and haven't really been giving this project as much time as I'd like. But, I managed to finish the wiring harness and start the engine this week. I've updated the wiring diagram in the first post to reflect the current configuration. After the successful start, I'm taking some time to reconfigure my engine stand set-up so that it will be less ad hoc during the tuning phase.

     

    Here is an overview shot of the engine as it sits this evening:

     

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    I ended up going with pencil coils on plug from a 2003-04 Honda CBR600RR motorcycle. I used a Bosch 0 227 100 211 igniter from a late '90s / early 2000s Volkwagon to fire the coils based on logic-level waste-spark signals from the MicroSquirt board. They are so low-profile:

     

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    For injectors, I used 19#/hr units that are much cheaper when you buy the rebuilt "Ford" versions on eBay (p/n 0280150943). I discovered that you can't re-pin the OEM AMP connectors in the BMW harness, so I bought new AMP Junior Timer Power connectors and terminals from Mouser for both the injectors and the ECU temperature sender:

     

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    Here is the PWM-driven idle air control valve, from a Geo Metro / Suzuki Swift 1.0L engine, mounted to a boss under the intake manifold. I am honestly not sure if it's working. The open-pipe first run was very loud and necessarily brief as I have no radiator installed. it remains to be seen whether this can move enough air to control the idle:

     

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    Here you can see the throttle body, TPS with adapter from 02again, and GM air temperature sensor (next to the dip stick):

     

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    I had the wiring tidy for the start, but then jumbled it in moving the engine around the shop this morning. I need to create a little panel/console to mount everything to so that everything remains orderly:

     

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    That's the news for now. The first start was so easily achieved, but the real work is really in this next phase of tuning. Especially given that while I am experienced with building wiring harnesses, I know next to nothing about tuning MegaSquirt.

     

    Jesse.

  7. Purist beware!

    Here are some details of where I am going with the car. Lots of work to do. I also mounted my bench grinder on a little foldable table so I could grind my connecting rods down. 

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    Front Suspension

    I am not a huge fan of the original clunky steering box and linkage setup. I have a BMW Z4 steering rack on my E30 and I absolutely love it! If you are unfamiliar with it, it is a 3.0 turns lock to lock manual steering rack (faster than the E36 racks, and maybe the E36 M, most E30 people love swapping in). The Z4 has electric steering assist built into the column so the splines are beefier than normal because it is a manual rack at that point. With the weight of my E30 the steering is quite easy going down the road, parking is a little harder but nothing that makes me not want to drive my car everywhere. With the lightness of the 2002, it should be even better. I am working on the front suspension set up. I want bigger brakes and bearings, but don't want to pay the price for tii struts. More on this as it develops...

     

    Engine

    4 cylinders are not for me. Plain and simple. I had an M20 kicking around and an idea of a real 3.2L stroker motor for a while and I think this would be perfect to test it out on. The plan is coming together and the engine block is coming back from the machine shop this week hopefully.I have most of the parts for the bottom end, just have to get a couple more odds and ends. 91mm stroke and 86mm bore... 3.172 L. Hopefully have enough money to get ITBs!

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    Rear suspension

    I will be swapping the rear suspension for an E30 rear suspension. I have started to make a jig to build off of and pulled a rear suspension from a parts car I had laying around. I will probably end up with rear coilover suspension to keep it simple and clean. I am pondering buying the hub and bracket from SRS concepts that would accept the calipers and rotors from a E46. Anyone have any experience with them? It looks promising.

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  8. When I bought the car, I had no idea that a shifter can feel so loose. Really, up down every which way with no gear selected. I bought the shifter rebuild kit from Blunttech and installed. I was a bit leery when Steve said this small kit will make it feel like new...but he was right...ish.

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    Still play but Im coming out of a re built E30 trans with short shifter and my daily has new 6 speed. I now can feel each gear tough. Not too bad of a job. I did not have to remove the driveshaft. When it came to the brace, blunttech sells the bushing that Condor supplies. Taking out the rest of the original bushing sleeve needed a saw to cut it out. Installation needed some persuasion to get back in the hole but that worked.

     

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    Cheers!

     

     

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    Recent Entries

    Been on the road for the last 4 months, enjoying so much in its current state that I didn't follow up on blog so here goes the list of work I neglected to post :rolleyes::

     

    1. Full suspension rebuild:

    a. Bilstein sports with HR SS

    b. IE poly bushings everywhere (diff mounts, sway bars, control arms, rear trailing arms) Car feels tight!!

    c. Condor Racing Rear subframe mounts

     

    2. Overhauling of Single Circuit brake system keeping all original parts going:

    a. Rebuilt Front Calipers all ATE parts & Remote Brake Booster (Shut out to Martin at Power brake exchange in San Jose)

    b. Rebuilt ATE Master Cylinder on pedal box

    c. New Wheel Cylinders and brake shoe adjustment

     

    3. Car had no driveline so I mashed together the original 3 piece front with a 02 shortened by 1 1/4" rear mated to a rebuilt e21 LSD (Shutout to Steve @ San Jose Driveline)

     

    Summary: So far I can start her up with no hesitation, and cruise at 80 on the freeway with no vibration, day and night to my last 02. Up next is all cosmetic as I want to have her shining for next summer. The goal is to have a period correct Rally machine. 

     

    I want to thank the FAQ Community for its amazing depth of knowledge and its incredible humble community for providing 100's of years combined of knowledge and for sharing some of those hard to find knick knacks for killer prices.

     

    On to some pics of its current state looking classy as the sun goes down.

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  9. Over the last few weeks Ive been driving Meintii everyday! As of today Ive put about 450 miles on her. Im trying to drive as much as possible to prepare for a cannonball run style rally/race Im participating in GA in 2 WEEKS! Im driving there, 1000 Miles each way, PLUS the race which is about 400 miles, PLUS driving around after the race at the beach! Should be an epic trip, however I am feeling the pressure to get the car ready in time. 

     

    Attached pictures show - My 3d-printed center console face, covered in brushed metallic vinyl. I shortened my handbrake by 4"s to allow for my custom center console made by @esty to fit without clearance issues. I should be installing that soon! More interior work continues with sounds insulation installed on both doors, along with the door panels installed as well. Hopefully carpet will go in this weekend along with the passenger seat! 

     

    Pictured - Comparison shot of old tii rear bar and the IE bar I installed last night. Biiiiig difference! I already had the BIG IE bar up front, car feels waaaay better with both on now :)

     

    Im still having cooling system woahs, the cap on my plastic coolant reservoir continues to leak when the car is hot - Ive replaced the cap and the RES with new bmw parts, they still leak. Im over it, bought a JOES racing reservoir and a couple different PSI caps, that should solve my issue, plus it will look real racey :)

     

    This week/end plans are to install carpet, passenger seat, finish wire looming under dash, mount console face in console if its arrived. Change coolant reservoir, verify issue is gone. Possibly change rear subframe/trailer arm bushings to urethane. Hammer out dent in fuel tank to regain proper pick up and fuel range for road trip/race. Finish wrapping turbo spoiler, trim fender flares and mount it! 

     

    Stay tuned folks! Im trying to get back in the habbit of taking more pictures

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  10. ClassDavid
    Latest Entry

    Back again to update my project blog. Haven't done a thing to the 2002 except enjoy it. Put just over seventeen thousand km this summer. Don't have too much planned for this winter other than BBS and maybe just a little lower. Now on to the real reason of this update! I am the lucky owner of a 1973 Inka Sunroof Touring! Such a cool car. I can't get over it! The previous owner bought it in 1985 when he was stationed in Germany and drove it a few years before shipping it to Canada. He recently decided to let it go. Its a fairly solid car. Has typical rust but is complete and well worth getting on the road once again. I need some opinions! The plan would be to semi restore it. Meaning fix the rear struts and rockers but leaving the paint and enjoy it as with loads of Patina then in a few years fully repaint and redo the car. What would you do? None of it is original paint and the rust does need to be fixed to drive it. Here is some pictures, hope you guys enjoy.

     

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  11. So, enough time had passed.  The new garage didn't have anything urgent to do, house siding was done, no circle track racing to help with, and nothing else had broken,  so it was time to fire up this lump that I've been hanging cords on for the last year.

     

    Ran some fuel lines for return from the pressure regulator, and one for pickup.

     

    Tried using my old tii fuel pump.  Stuffed the hoses in a jerry can, cycled the power a couple times until the pump changed noise (loaded up), went to get my fire extinguisher ,  turned around and there was a puddle of fuel on the ground.  Not much, maybe a foot across, but damn, I wanted to fire this up.  Upon closer inspection, it was coming from behind the wiring plugs.  Not today.

     

    A quick trip to rock auto (ask me later how much it hurts going to local parts stores for generic parts) and a 3 bar 044 type pump was on its way.  Time to wait.

     

    Once it arrive, hooked it up, and no fuel made it to the floor.  Checked some settings I did quite a few months before, entered the license key into TunerStudio (I bought the copy so I could use the auto tunes), and finally hit the starter button.  Lots of cranking, and could tell it was trying to fire but never really did.

     

    On a whim, since I wasn't sure I had tuned it right, I put my thumb over the Idle Control Valve inlet.  It was sucking lots of air while cranking. A few more pops from the exhaust.

     

    These were the original injectors from the 318 (15 lbs I found out later) and hadn't been used in who knows how long.

     

    A few more pops, and it took off.  I had to play with covering the ICV to keep it running.  I ended up swapping it out for a different style (I may still revert), which required some more playing to get it to close (which it really doesn't ever seem to seal completely).  I was, at that time, still running the original B&G 2.9 firmware, so the options for testing the ICV were a bit primitive, but it ran, and I ran through warmup enrichment auto tune a couple of times, which showed a small leak in the rad, which I expected from some seeping that showed it self earlier.

     

    I had kind of decided that I am going to use a set of Motorcycle throttle bodies, and the MSExtra code has provisions for ITBs, so I decided to upgrade the firmware now. TunerStudio connected to MSExtra has better testing for ICVs.  Most of the the other benefits require rewring/mods to the MS unit, but I don't think I'll need them for this little M10 (sequential fuel injectors, coil on plug, etc).

     

    I re-set up everything (which worked better than expected).  Tuner Studio had done a major upgrade(2.x to 3.0), and 'moved everything', and the interface changed when you switch from the B&G code to the MSExtra.  A couple of runs through the Warm up Enrichment, some VE tuning, and it's not too bad now.  I had the VE tables way to low, so the auto tune couldn't do its thing (Air/Fuel very lean), initially, so I bumped them up and it got it close enough it could do its magic.

     

    I'll try to get a video of it running soon.

     

    I've got a set of 2000 GSXR 750 itbs ordered from Ebay, so I'll have to build a manifold.  Since the GSXR has 80mm cylinder spacing, and the M10 has 100mm, some creativity will have to occur.  I'm not sure if I'm going to split them (they are 2 sets of 2 itbs), which would require fabricating a fuel rail, or just leave them and offset # 1 & 4 30mm with 2 &3 10mm....  Half the runners longer than the other is like a dual plane manifold right?  :) Lots of options.

     

    It may be time to look for a slightly larger cam, so I can work with the flexibility that the megasquirt provides.

     

    Did I mention I may skip putting this in my tii while I rebuild that, and just build a Locost using this motor, so have something more fun to drive than a TDI while I redo the tii?  Who knows what will happen....

     

    If you've made it this far, congrats, this is a rambling mess :)  Thanks for listening.

     

    p.s. the look of the setup didn't change much, so no new pictures  are required

     

  12. Djthom
    Latest Entry

    Going to add some progress photos on the body.  In this set is new trunk floor, rear panel, dogleg behind door, inner/outer wheel arch, rocker and A pillar.  Zero rust now and perfectly aligned.  I'm closing in all the side marker and reflectors for a Euro look.

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  13. VWJake
    Latest Entry

    I have very little car time as I am a stay-at-home Dad for our 14mo old son 3-4 days/wk 13hrs/day when my wife works (Cardiac nurse) and I run two small businesses of my own (auto repair and home renovations/handyman). That being said I have even less money than time to commit to these projects. The '69 has been chosen as the donor to revive the '68 and hopefully the '73 (down the road). My current goal is to make the '68 true to the body measurements in the blue book and mobile by Summer 2018. Keeping in mind that some of the sheet metal required to save the '73 is intermingled with parts that I need to repair the '68 I will be removing parts at the spot welds wherever possible. 

     

    As previously posted I had peeled off the quarter panel from the '68 to get a better look at the scope of work. I recently removed a section of the outer rocker, the C-pillar braces and the outer wheelhouse. Over the weekend I drug some tools out to the tent where the '69 is hidden. I removed the seat back / parcel tray panel and the inner sheet at the bottom of the side glass opening first. Removing the quarter panel was quite easily thanks to the tin worm's effort in the wheel arch and trailing end of the rocker panel. Then I took out the rib that fits between the quarter panel and the outer wheelhouse and I also removed the entire C-pillar. With those out of the way I set to work on removing the inner and outer wheelhousings together. I haven't decided how I intend to use them in the repair of the '68 as they are both rotted messes but at least I will have that structure on-hand in the garage when the time comes.

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    The next parts to be removed from the '69 will be the tail panel, the left quarter, wheelhouse, and trunk floor. I probably outta take the roof off as well. Then off comes the rear subframe/suspension as that will be going under the '68.

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  14. Paint and body work has begun.  I'll post photos as I get them.  They'll be taking the paint down to the metal so should be some good pics along the way.  Thanks for following.

    October 11th - Mostly down to bare metal, still some areas to remove.  Typical rust spots located.  Next update in a couple of weeks.  Plan is for a December completion of paint.

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  15. After many inquiries and requests for a wider version of our Aluminum air dams, I finally found the time (and a good car to work from) to make a prototype. There were a lot a variables to consider. It needed to mount up high, covering the bead detail in the valence (nose panel). It needed to fit and look good both with and without a front bumper (early and late) it also needed to wrap all the way to the fender arch/wheel well....yet fit the average banged up and repainted 45 year old car. 

     

    This is what I came up with. It looks low but it in fact allows for 3/8" more ground clearance than my original long/low mount version (shown in pic, for comparison) Happy with the results, I know it won't work on every flared and modified race car, but with very little effort it fit up nicely to the four different cars I cross-referenced the shape to. 

     

    I've made a short run of these and they are available to purchase @ www.kooglewerks.com 

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  16. Like everyone else, Summer was a busy time for me. I was in 7 weddings, I know, ridiculous. It left me with limited garage weekends and even less time to post any progress reports. I also work for a small restaurant company and we opened 2 new stores this Summer, again detracting from my garage time. But I got a fair bit done. Still in tear-down mode. Lots of little odds and ends came off. Both headlights and front grills, tail lights, doors, most of the glass, exhaust, some miscellaneous engine components (intake and carb mostly) and I've almost got the entire rear end out.

     

    The prop shaft will not budge at all, which means some of the bolts on the diff and the trans are just a pain to get to. I'm thinking either the engine or the diff is seized up, or both, or I'm just a nancy. But once the prop shaft is out I will be able to remove the rear subframe/diff/axle assembly and the rest of the engine bay electrical and the steering components and hopefully drop the entire front subframe as well. The dash and a little bit of stubborn sound-deadening material is about all that's left in the interior. Unfortunately, I found that the passenger floor is also swiss cheese so that will need to be cut out and replaced just like the driver's side. 

     

    Here's some pics for those interested in the carnage.

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  17. Like most, I am sure your glove box looks like mine and needs  some sort of refresh.  I decided to take advantage of new found  time while I am waiting for the mechanicals  to be completed, to  take onIMG_0918.JPG.c0c2aff22c7e1da8b80eb74c7d16a6b7.JPG this project. IMG_0919.JPG.6fd13806f058a30c07a3b090c9152c1f.JPG

    I was also somewhat hesitant to start it as I have never attempted such an undertaking. There was a number of tutorials out there that at least gave me a an idea how to tackle the issue., so with that limited knowledge  it began.

     

    The main issue was to remove all the old beaten, stained and grundy looking finish from the box. This job I found to be messy. I used a die grinder initially with a course resurfacing disc for the first pass. It did an adequate job but the  corners  and contoured areas of the glove box proved to be  a problem for my.

    I had to  use a dremmel tool and a fine edge scrapper to take care of those  hard to reach areas.  A  considerable amount of hand sanding  followed but after a couple of hours I was ready to start the next step.  Oh ya, use a respirator and glasses, this shit goes everywhere.

     

    The next step was to seal the box, The product I used recommended a latex paint to seal the surface. So after a few passes with a degreasing agent, a coat of latex  sealer was used. I applied two coats sanded between coats to complete this step. I waited  a couple more hours to allow that to fully dry before applying the bonding agent.

     

     

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    I placed the glove box the in a large plastic container once I had painted the glove box with that bonding agent. This was to catch the excess nylon texture material.  The product instructions suggested that more is better when applying the product. This is to ensure  proper coverage but also should be done within 10-15 minutes before the bonding agents starts to set up. 

     

    I decided to change the colour of the flocking as well.  So silver replaced the charcoal grey, a colour I felt compliment the stainless steel accents I incorporated in the interiors redesign. Not a traditional colour I know but there is not a lot of traditional elements in the new interior. 

     

    IMG_0926.JPG.5d267e74090b345dfb3174e9aa62a137.JPGSo,  with the  mini flocker in hand I began flocking, pumping that little tube , shooting this stuff everywhere until I had smothered the entire glove box with the new finish. It looked pretty good, but then again anything would have been an improvement from the old one. 

     

    Word of caution, you have to wait a considerable time for the product to dry.  They say a minimum of 15 hours, I waited a full 24 before I started to collect the excess. It can be used again by the way. It is fully cured within 48-72 hours depending on climate and temp.

     

     

    ....all the hardware mounted

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    After I had completed flocking the glove box I turned my attention to the console I have built. I wanted to get this done before the upholsterer was going to wrap it. The process was similar, however I used a white shellac to seal the small storage box as it was made from birch plywood. A couple of holes were cut for the two new electrical connections before I started ......

     

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    Once it was dry,  I fitted the new 12V and USB connections ......ready for some leather now. All in all about 5 hours to do both.

     

    Again thanks for your time,

     

    Regards

     


     

  18. xr4tic
    Latest Entry

    In keeping with my timely blog updates, I'll now post something that happened several months ago.

     

    Shortly after my last post, I took the car out for a spin.  The engine ran, the brakes worked, the clutch was funky, but it was driveable.

     

    I got back after a very short spirited drive and checked to make sure the fluids were all still there.

     

    Oil - chocolate milk

    Water - empty

    Cursing - lots of it

     

    I put some water in the radiator, and it came pouring out of the passenger side of the block.

     

    I did a leakdown test to see if I could tell what the issue was, but every cylinder was ~80% leakage (extremely bad) so there was no way to know without pulling it apart.

     

    I pulled the head off and found a crack between a valve and coolant passage, the cylinders were extremely worn, and there was a large rusted hole in the passenger side freeze plug.

     

    The initial plan was to find another motor, do a quick refresh on it, drop it in, and then get the rest of the car fixed up before dropping a bunch of money into the motor.

     

    I found a motor on the forum here, shipped, for a decent price.  I got it apart and found several issues:

    It had been rebuilt, but done poorly, one of the rods was backwards and all of the rod nuts were upside down

    It had E12 pistons for an E21 head with signs of contact on the head

    The cylinder walls still had the cross hatch on them, but after measuring them, I determined someone had bored them too big.  There was way too much clearance, which would explain the signs of excessive oil burning (pistons/combustion chamber/valves/ports all full of carbon)

    One of the rod journals had a nick on it that gouged the rod bearing.

     

    Change of plans - rebuild the original motor.  Ordered some 9.5:1 pistons and 144mm rods from IE, along with a bunch of other stuff.  I'll post the complete list + costs in another entry.

     

    Chocolate Milk                        $0.00

    Used M10                           $440.00

    Running Total                $10,006.00

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    Recent Entries

    beemerdreamer
    Latest Entry

    The 1976 Polaris BMW 2002 was found in Idaho via Facebook marketplace.

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  19. It’s been quite a while since I last really dug into the BMW 2402tii.  My wife ended up going back to school so most of my dreams of getting the car road worthy this year are out the window.  I most likely will not be able to afford the big pieces for quite some time.  That was a bit like knocking the wind out of my sails.

     

    I have decided to plug on anyway.  I will try to get a solid foundation.  I should still be able to get the steering and plumbing worked out.  As well as clean, sort, and seal the underside of the car.  I might even go back and redo some of my previous work.  With a project like this one as my first I know that my skill has improved, from non-existent to not too terrible.

    Enough babbling, on to the updates!

    1.       I found a steering column!  I found a link through a mustang forum that a GM electric power steering column could be retro fit.  The assist is built into the column so it can be turned up, down, or off.  It is controlled by a potentiometer kit that you can get from Ebay for ~$50. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/670865-anyone-want-100-electric-power-steering-here-you-go.html

    2.       I have shifted the driving position rearward to help with leg room and weight bias.  I never had an intention to put the back seat back in

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    3.       I have built mounts to use NA Miata seats.  The current ones I have are from pull-apart and being that this is Michigan, they are extremely rusty.  Still for $23 they are good enough for mock up.

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    4.       The AR5 transmission that matches my Ecotec is HUGE.  I’ve had to considerably enlarge the tunnel.  I’ve been putting off this sheet metal job for the better part of a year.  I finally tackled the driver side and closed it all in.

    5.       I primed and seam sealed the whole side.  This is most likely the floor section I would be most likely to redo.

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    6.       Finally I covered it all with bed liner and threw everything back together. 

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    Of course the next thing I did was sit in the car make engine noises and pretend to shift.  I do need to get the car on the ground and see just how bad ingress/egress is.

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  20. 2002VT
    Latest Entry

    Mocking up. Looks like I'll need a spacer in the front. Just tapping the strut. Rear is money. Time to get flares!  

     

    Then - I need to continue the mechanical. I need to take the motor drop path. This car will take forever, but I dig that. I know it will be a stunner when it's done. 

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