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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

Blogs

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  1. It's been a while...

     

    The ’02 was stored in my garage during the unpleasantly long winter, here’s a shot prior to putting the cover on.

     

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    Winter/Spring

     

    A few semi-exciting off season acquisitions.

     

    • New pair of 45DCOEs from Redline (allautomotive)
    • 123Ingition Tune+ distributor, in on the group buy.
    • New rain gutter trims
    • A KMPH speedometer from Netherlands

     

           Also during the winter/spring I took care of a few tasks to help things progress.

    I re-re-upholstered my sun visors,  I didn’t like my previous job with the same fabric as the headliner, so redid it in vinyl.

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    -       -   With the same vinyl, I made a small cover to go below the handbrake, not because I thought it was necessary but because when I was installing the center console last year, a screw pulled a thread in the carpet L... which will now be hidden by the vinyl cover

     

    -      -    I removed the kmph speedometer from the cluster and verified and then repaired the odometer.

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    -      -    I made a wire harness for the 123ignition, because harnesses are cool.

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    Finally with the snow ending I rolled the 2002 into its “spot.”

     

    -      -    I installed the new gutter trims. I first smeared some grease on the roof’s metal gutter lip before popping the trim on, rust protection.

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    -      -    I used and old quilt to make fender protectors while I work on the car because I’m a cheapo J.

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    -    -      I installed the new 123ignition distributor

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    -     -     Adjusted the valves (aka gave the car a VJ), I hadn’t done this last year, an oversight on my part.

     

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    -     -     Started the car to confirm the new distributor functioned properly, then started on swapping out the settings from the (unmatched) Italian DCOEs, to the new Spanish DCOEs.

     

    -     -     Removed the Italian DCOEs and started to swap the settings to the new Spanish DCOEs. Installed new Spanish DCOEs

     

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    -    -      I ordered a new throttle linkage because I wasn’t happy with what I had. Instead of re-installing what I had, I decided to wait a week for the new throttle cable.

     

    -     -     During that “unused week,” I took the cluster out to swap in the KMPH speedometer. I added an extra ground on the back of the cluster, like other have done, for good measure.

     

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    -    I had originally planned on installing the rocker trim but...

    o   I sprayed the rocker with black plastidip, it’s a unpermanent way of getting the job done, plus I’ve always wanted to try this stuff.

    o   After getting the job done and installing the rocker trim, I decided I preferred how the it looked without the trim. And unfortunately because I didn’t do a perfect masking job figuring the “line” would be hidden behind the trim, I had to redo it.

    o   I removed the plastidip and reapplied it with a nice crisp-line. This stuff is cool.

     

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    -        -  Over a week later, I received the new linkage and fabricated a throttle cable bracket which attaches to the transmission. I used some scrap aluminum for the job, it’s times like this I’m glad I keep garbage lying around (piece of aluminium).

     

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     I also had to shave velocity stack #3 slightly, in order to clear the brake booster

     

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    Eurokracy http://www.eurokracy.com/

     

    A couple of guys I know (mainly Rick), throw a car show every year just north of Montreal, in Mirabel. It’s actually the biggest car show in Canada. This year my buddy, Kosta, who assisted with the restoration project (especially the dismantling, cutting and welding) was peer pressuring me to enter the show & shine. In order to enter you need to be “invited” as one of the Top 100 entries. I don’t feel my BMW is anything special, I mean it’s special to me because all the work I put in to it , plus everything I know, I learned because of it.

     

                    After some more peer pressure, I filled out the entry form and a day later I received my invitation to the show J...Luckily I did not immediately purchase the entry ticket because this was prior to knowing there would be issues with my new Spanish DCOEs :( 

     

    bumm, bumm, bumm, bummmmm... To Be Continued...

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    Recent Entries

    This is the car in question. Its a 1976 BMW 2002 that i bought senior year of high school for 4K. The car served me well and lasted 2 years as a daily and even manged a trip from PA to IN and back. When it returned i took it auto-crossing and binned the valve-train. I tried to fix it in the apartment parking lot but had no luck. This is where the tear down began.I ended up pulling the motor to try and rebuild it. Upon removing the engine i also tried embarking on other maintenance things such as bushings. As the car came further and further apart i found more and more rust. I also started to discover botched jobs that the previous owners did(i'm surprised a passenger didn't fall through the floor). I stopped work to head back to college and this is where i though long and hard about what  wanted to do to the car. Did i want to restore it. Did i want to part it out and buy another one. What i finally decided on was that i wanted to turn it into a race car. I could replace lots of the metal with fiberglass to reduce weight and prevent rust, as well as make the car completely how i want to while having fun improving my skills. So this is where the journey of the Group 5 2002 begins.

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    Recent Entries

    JHouser
    Latest Entry

    Its a classic tale of a 19 year old kid buying his dream car, driving it, rebuilding the engine, and before he knows it life makes him put it all on pause. 20 years later he finally gets to start the process of bringing the car back to life. My good friend Erik agreed to partner with me on the restoration and with that we started with the first steps. Day one involved much cleaning and organizing. 60 lbs of dry ice, some popping and cracking and the floors were free from the tar paper. This trick is well worth the $150 in dry ice. As its been stated before. The more the better. Outside of the typical spots around the heater box and pedal box the floors are cleaner than we were expecting. 

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  2. localhuman
    Latest Entry

    After all the metal work, it was time to prime!

     

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    (Note to admins and readers- I couldn't format photos on this post correctly! Any time I tried to click a photo to edit it, it brought me to new page and lost all my previous saved writing! So, sorry the photos aren't like I want them to be...)

     

    I've used a few epoxy primers, but in terms of protection, ease of use,customer support and price, SPI's epoxy primer is easily the best for me.  So I ordered some paint and prepped up the garage spray booth.  Since it is not a real spray booth, I am very dependent on the weather for being able to paint, and it just so happened that I got the perfect weekend weather-wise for using epoxy a couple of weekends ago: mid 80s  during the day and mid 70s at night, low humidity and no wind.  

     

    Everything went on smooth with 2 coats on everything, except for the bottom which got 3 coats.  After it set for a few days, I went back with some 3M seam sealer ( photos towards the bottom ) everywhere I had welded, to make sure any pinholes would stay water tight, and then hit those areas with another light coat of primer as well.

     

    My next step is to get it rolling so that I can move it around a bit more easily for the filler work.  More on that later!

     

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  3. After getting the car back from paint, I was happy with how it turned out. My buddy who is a painted shot the car for me.

     

     

     

     

     

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  4. ClassDavid
    Latest Entry

            So relativitely small update! Got my 71 dash pad in. The 71 dash doesn’t have the “fasten seat belt thing. It isn’t crack free but I think its an improvement. Also bought an MSD tach converter to change the signal so I could use the original Tach, works great! I then bought a speed hut gps speedo. I didn’t make any holes to mount it in and the reason I did that is for a future speedo plan. I heard that you can power an original speedometer with a GPS unit. So I am on the hunt for a pre 74 220km speedo that I can send off and have something that doesn't stick out. As for now, this one will do. Works good and the antenna is hidden under the dash. I haven’t had any problems losing signal yet, and it came equipped with cool options like altitude, 0-60 times and maximum speed. Lately I have just been enjoying the car. On the side I have working on some BBS. Can not wait for these wheels to be done… More to come!

    Here is the original gauges and 72 dash
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    Got my spare tire as well. Slightly to big though. My trunk board doesn’t sit totally level.

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    Well, top end rebuild done now, thanks to Mark Hutto, my great mechanic.  Running very well now, but we detected still a rattle potentially in the bottom end... but that is the next chapter.  Will drive for a bit to see how it goes, then determine next steps and whether a bottom end rebuild may be in my future.....

  6. doslucero
    Latest Entry

    I recently took some pics of the car while on a drive in the desert.  I haven't posted much on the blog since I got the car back from paint but have been driving it a lot and have done quite a few things to the car including new carpet, tucked front bumper, dyed the rear seat to match the brown door panels, installed an electric fuel pump and repainted the steelies.  I'm also currently modifying a VW bug roof rack to fit on the car.  I'll post some pics of that when its finished.  My future plans for the car are to install a 5 speed transmission, recover the front seats and reinstall and fix the frigiking A/C cause its getting hot as hell out here in AZ.  

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  7. sorry again that ive really not documented the work very well, ive really just been getting on with it and forgetting to take photos of things! anyway i got a few shots at the weekend for your delectation. 

     

    the steering is complete now, new track rods, center section, refurbished steering box, new steering coupler and all put back together. never knew how much of a puzzle it would be to get it all back together in the correct way.

    the wiring for the ignition switch and the stalks was a real nightmare, however i had already started stripping the loom back to remove unwanted things and to identify wires for my new stereo. anywhoo here a picture of the whole! thing all back in and working like a dream

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    as above, i started stripping out wires and also including some new bits so i could wire in this mechless bluetooth stereo. wasn't too difficult as everything was nicely accessible. have hard wired it in, and will run an amp in the rear so from RCA's which all run underneath the carpets.

     

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    powered up!

     

    another addition was the newly painted rocker and manifold. i just went for a stock black VHT paint to tidy things up a bit. the polished oil cap might change.

     

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    other jobs we completed at the weekend.

     

    hanging the rear box with nice new hangers and plastic bits. 

    fitting the manifold and the down pipe at the front. 

    running heavy duty power cables to the battery for the amp in the rear. 

    the dash "chrome" bits (Actually just plastic!) i will change these out i think soon, what can i cover them in to make them look more metal-like?!

     

    new job is to fit all new brake lines and the new master cylinder

     

    :D

     

    thanks for reading

     

  8. Hello FAQ'ers

     

    Its been an exciting week as I finally pulled my car out of the body shop to finish getting it driving before the end of June! It is not done with body work yet but is much closer than it was 2 months ago.

     

    This is a place holder update for more to come soon. Too busy/tired to do a full update. For now a few pictures of the work i did this weekend. 

     

    You will find in this post , a custom brake fluid resivoir bracket (the old one broke off), oil temp sensor install/ fab video, oil cooler AN line plumbing, oil pressure sender adapter installed, river nuts on everything to avoid dealing with hardware outside of the engine bay walls, and a picture of how it ended up after the weekend of work. Note! There is alot not pictured that got completed as well :)

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  9. After removing the head (which seems okay), we put it back on and torqued it down--just to see if the blockage reappeared. It did not. So, the mysterious blockage is gone, and we're debating what to do next. Options include having the head gone through, swap in a used head, swap in a used engine, or go through both the head and the bottom end. Whatever we do, at least we have a new cooling system ready.

     

    While our car was offline, there were two highlights--doing the design for Rob Siegel's book "Ran When Parked" (we had visited him in Louisville when he worked on "Louie"), and tracking Jason Gipson's '75 Verona build. Many thanks to Jason for letting us borrow the Beer Snob for our trip to The Vintage!

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  10. Got it pretty much done.  Turned out pretty good I think.

     

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    I'm just kidding.  These are from my trip to the BMW Museum in Munich.  It was full of everything BMW and was all finished to the most perfect of levels.

     

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    So where I am actually at is that I have gotten more of the trim delete closer to being done.

     

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    I got my paint in for down the road.  I am still debating about trying to tackle it myself or to try and have someone do it for me.  I got the single stage 22 Line from Glasurit in Riviera Blue.

     

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    While working on the body work up on the front I noticed that the front nose was a bit loose near the bottom and had noticed that the prior owner had it swapped at some point.  The tabs on the bottom were cut to remove the old one but the new nose never was welded on down there.  I found a few sheet metal screws and decided to pop it and clean it up.  I ground off the old tabs and straightened the sheet metal out then proceeded to weld it back together.  I was going to try to do spot welds to keep it more factory but my spot welder would not get into the locations.  I also straightened up the lower lip and got rid of all the bent portions.  Kinda looks like a boat with no tires on.

     

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    As you can see it had minimal welding done down the sides and other than the few spot welds the sheetmetal screw on each end were about all that was holding it on.

     

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    These are the old tabs and the new one wasn't even welded down here.

     

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    The final fit after getting it welded up seems to be pretty good.

     

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    I dropped the front suspension and went through the steering box.  I think I got lucky and other than a bit of rust on the shaft which cleaned up fine I didn't notice any pitting on the gears.  I used the iemotorsport steering box refresher kit and swapped all the seals and changed the oil.

     

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    Dropped the front subframe and got it into the sand blaster.

     

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    Welded in the reinforcement plate and painted it all up.  I'd like you to all note my awesome welding skills.

     

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    Parts apart.

     

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    I opted to reuse the control arms because they looked pretty good.

     

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    Assembled but only temporarily because I had fresh hardware in the mail but was leaving for a trip.

     

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    Got my hardware to swap in.  Got it at http://wallothnesch.com

     

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    Here it is with the new hardware installed.

     

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    I then proceeded to drop the rear and that is in progress for a rebuild.

     

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    Found a bit more rust that I will have to work on.

     

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    I think these are the US bumper mounts welded into the European mounts.  I was contemplating cutting the US stuff out but think I may just leave it in there.  Has anyone attempted to modify them back?

     

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  11. So, a bitter sweet end to my 1975 BMW 2002 Mintgrun Lite Restoration has the car being shipped off to its new owner in Dix Hills, NY.  I really enjoyed the journey and although it is not practical to own 2 2002's with a 3 car garage, I look forward to finding another car to work on.  Just don't tell my wife!

     

    I hope the new owner enjoys this car as much as did and starts a new blog on his journey.

     

    Mark92131

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  12. collard greens 2002
    Latest Entry

    It feels like I hit a road block, and things have stalled, waiting on parts to come in like the new fuel pump and sending unit. It has really put everything in slow mo... With the wiring being possible the easiest thing to do it's kinda the hardest! C101 connector also came in but I don't want to use any of the old wiring, it just looks to be in bad shape. 

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  13. In addition to rebuilding the carb, I also installed an electric fuel pump and regulator.  The Weber carbs are picky when it comes to fuel pressure and the mechanical pump was providing too much pressure.

     

    I started a post about trying to use a regulator with a mechanical pump, and it just wasn't feasible without having to run fuel hose all over the engine bay.  It also details some of the part I bought

    Carb reinstalled with fuel pump block off plate and new inline filter (Mr. Gasket universal filter)

     

    The fuel pump block off is Empi 31-3011 as used on air-cooled VWs.  You can find them all over ebay for cheap, or pay more for the same item from a BMW aftermarket supplier

     

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    You can also see the cooling system is finished and electric fan wired up with a coolant temp switch in the coolant housing.  The heater core lines are just plugged at this time because the heater box hasn't been put back in.

    Fan relay and distribution block - https://www.bluesea.com/products/5045/ST_Blade_Compact_Fuse_Blocks_-_4_Circuits

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    Holley 12-804 Fuel Regulator installed:

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    I wanted to mount a fuel pressure gauge, but had issues finding a good one.  The oil filled ones weren't accurate unless you vented them every time you wanted to check them and they could only be mounted with the vent straight up.  The non-oil gauge just bounced too much.  I ended up adding a fuel schrader valve so I could hook up a typical fuel pressure gauge tester:  http://www.dieselorings.com/schrader-valve-fuel-injection-rated-1-8-mnpt.html

     

    Fuel pump in trunk, Carter P60504 inline pump, includes a filter.

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    I replaced the leaky Ansa center resonator with another Ansa (non-sport)

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    While I was at it, pulled the rear bumper off in prep for a tuck:

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    And pulled the diamond plate out of the trunk to see how bad it was:

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    Yep, it's bad:

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    While I was doing the cooling system, I got rid off the overspray in the headlight area and painted the grill.  Also mounted some new Hella lights - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G72SKQ/

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    And also painted the wiper motor cover and arms to get rid of the orange overspray:

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    No pictures, but replaced a leaky rear wheel brake cylinder and installed a new ST front sway bar to match the rear ST bar.  I thought the one I had was stock, turns out it was an old ST bar, but was a bit rusty and the bushings were shot.

     

    Head Lights                         $70.00

    Front Swaybar                   $165.00

    rear wheel cylinder              $20.00

    fuel pump                             $39.00

    fuel hose                              $21.00

    regulator                              $30.00

    block off plate                      $14.00

    fuel filter                               $10.00

    schrader valve                     $15.00

    Center Exhaust Pipe            $70.00

    Temp Switch                         $20.00

    Power Distribution Block      $25.00

    Running Total                  $9,566.00

     

  14. After finally starting the car, there was a horrible screeching sound coming from the back off the engine. Really no way to diagnose the problem without removing the engine and transmission again. I ended up pretty much disassembling the entire car: exhaust, driveshaft, fuel lines, hoses, engine, transmission, radiator, engine wiring harness.

    I discovered that the shaft collar for the throw-out / release bearing was contacting the splined part of the spring pack on the clutch friction disc.

     

    I contacted gripforce clutches and they confirmed that the friction disc needs to be installed with the spring pack facing the flywheel into the recessed portion of the flywheel, which is not typical. The clutch kit only comes with generic instructions showing the spring pack of the friction disc facing away from the flywheel. After making sure that the release bearing slid freely on the collar, everything clutch related went back on the engine and torqued to spec.

     

    Getting the engine back in. My first approach was to install it form the bottom, but that was huge pain. So, I rigged the engine differently to the hoist and installed the engine from the top, and then installed the transmission from the bottom. The 10 foot steel cable was used as a safety just in case the bolt holding the engine to the chain gave way. Then, I reinstalled the driveshaft and then the exhaust... again!

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    I ordered an O2 plug which will be installed when it arrives this week.

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    Installing the engine this way is so much easier. Right now, I am using a cheapy parts store ignition switch to start the car, which I will swap out once I get the new part. Now, I have to clean up the wiring... again. But hey it runs! There is link below to a pretty crude video of the engine running. Dust blowing everywhere as I rev the engine. I am leaving the flares, front spoiler, and hood off or now. They will be the last things to go on the car, which should be very soon.

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    BMW 2002 S54 Swap 480p.mov

  15. Today I did a full engine teardown. While I have yet to do the head of the engine and remove all the valves and springs, I was able to completely disassemble the block.  While I already knew the tops of the pistons are likely not salvageable, the rest of the engine looked in surprisingly good health.  

     

    What surprised me the most was the shape of the clutch as it looked barely used.   What was most surprising, was the fact that I found two broken and to dipsticks in the bottom of the oil pan. I guess you never know what you'll find. 

     

    Once I get the valves removed, and bring in the entire engine to my mechanic for review to understand in better detail the shape of the block and the extent of the engine rebuild the house to take place. 

     

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  16. vacca rabite
    Latest Entry

    Last week I was back in Virginia to do more welding on the car.With my floor pans being mostly fixed, the next BIG issue were my rockers.  The drivers side rockers were by far the worst, so I decided to start with them.

     

    Since I had bought the full rocker replacement panel from Restoration Design (who is the NA reseller for the W&N panels), I decided to replace the entire rocker.  This gives me a chance to see first hand how these cars are put together.

     

    This first pic, well, it isn't pretty.

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    The cut off part is getting saved for making patches.  So I've set it aside.

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    When doing something unpleasant its best to make yourself as comfortable as possible.  The drivers seat fit the bill pretty well.  Better then kneeling on a concrete slab.

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    Even in tidewater VA, nearing 100 degrees in April is warm. Cutting spot welds takes time, and after 8 hours grinding and banging and cussing it was time to put the car back on the ground. As I sat there, in the work bay, drinking water to try and rehydrate, my car almost looked pretty.

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    Next day I got an early start.  It was obvious that I was not going to get the new rocker panel welded on, as there is some reconstruction that needs to happen first before its covered back up again.

     

    Being slightly less warm and having a breeze, I opted to work outside under my Eazy-Up.  This picture reminds me of a little dog cocking its leg up to pee.  ;-)

    At this point I had taken my bucket blaster and hit the interior of the rocker panel with glass blast media.  I also went around the car and hit all the places where the cars had started rusting around the trim.  I found a couple new weak spots in the steel along the way, but they were nothing critical.  You can see that the rust is gone along the leading edge of the hood.

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    The interior of the rocker is also looking much better.  I had cut away the inner rocker to get at the rust behind it.  The inner rocker will be rebuilt using that off cut piece from the day before.  Tehre are clearly some areas here that still need work, but I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel for this rocker.

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    Unfortunately it was now Sunday afternoon and I needed to be cleaning up.  I hit the bare metal with some black epoxy to keep new rust from forming, since the car will be siting with the rocker exposed for about a month at least.  Before I painted it, I went in with an air hose and REALLY blew out all the crevices.  I wanted to get the cavities as clean and rust/dirt/blast media free as possible so there would not be sludge sitting there just waiting to soak up more water.

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    Went around the car and put a bit of epoxy on all the areas I hit with the blaster.

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    Both rear fenders have areas like this that blew out when I blasted what I had hoped was surface rust.  Given the cost of the patch panel I'm giving serious thought to getting a set of the IE Turbo flares or welding in a set of Mk1 VW flares.  My orginal scope for this car was to have it almost totally stock.  But with all the welding I'm doing, I wonder if putting flares on would be that great a sin.  I would certainly open up my wheels selection.

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    Until next time...

     

    Zach

     

     

  17. 2002VT
    Latest Entry

    Holes. Not a fan. This beast is rusty under the front fenders. In fact, I can see the inside from the outside.  Nothing some new welding can't fix - but bummer. 

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  18. Hitting the dyno on Thursday!  Waiting for a 911 to get out the way!

     

    This is going to be off the hook!  Get ready for some awesome, gas burning, piston screaming video!

     

    (ignore the caddy.  Feast your eyes on the countach in behind.)

     

    I don't know what you guys think but I would say the '02 is the prettiest of the bunch!

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    • 1
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    Recent Entries

    So I thought I'd better start a blog after being a member for so long. I've put plenty of pictures on showing how the car looked when I bought it, to how it is currently. It was a stock 1973 2002 Auto in Fjord Blue and below is a list of things I have changed/replaced/renewed/modified.

     

    Changed the auto box to standard 4 speed

    Restored the fuel tank

    Tried several sets of alloys (BBS,ATS)

    Lowered with Jaymic springs

    Fit Nardi steering wheel and gear knob

    Fit new shocks/dampers

    Fit front spoiler

    Replaced full break system

    Added twin 40 Webers

    Had seats re-upholstered (no pictures though!!)

    Fit Zender rear spoiler

    Fit 123 Tune (have to re-fit replacement...long story)

    Made custom copper heat shield

    Bought new wings, front panel centre section & chrome grilles

    Bought good second hand drivers side door Started on front end restoration/mods

    Bought Alpina lip arches

    Bought 1968 J.A.Pierce 13x7 Magnesium alloys (they are gorgeous!)

     

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  19. 2002newb
    Latest Entry

    Been a rough winter of inactivity, but with the weather getting warmer I am happy to say that things are starting to get rolling again. Went and picked up a few parcels that were waiting for me and they really got me excited about getting the 02 back on the road.

     

    With the arrival of the turbo manifold turbo and waste gate all i need is a few more pieces to complete the engine rebuild 

     

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  20. Well it's been a while since I have posted (again). As before, the tempo of work has slowed and now I am tackling things as they arise and as the opportunity presents itself.  Since my last post, I have fitted my 123 Tune + distributor which I am now having fun (in a good way) playing with the tune.  I should probably write a post on that on its own just to document what I have done installation wise plus, of course, how I have tuned it. Bear with me if you are tuning in for that, I will get to that later on.

     

    While investigating a no-start condition, I idly triggered my multi spark CDI ignition having blindly been cranking the engine for some time. The bang as the cylinder full of fuel and air mixture ignited was massive. My ears rang for the rest of the night and it took a few minutes for the smoke to clear. My wife came running out of the house, convinced that I had finally killed myself as I came blinking out of my shed.

     

    Once I had figured out my problem with the 123 and got the car started, I detected a changed quality to the exhaust note plus a notable 'chuffing' from underneath. The explosion had knocked a hole in my down pipe and blown a chunk out of the sealing flange between the down pipe and resonator. To be fair, both were in terrible condition. The resonator had seemed solid enough but was red with a granular rust all over. The downpipe looked like it was related to Frankenstein as it showed the scars of being welded many times. As the RHD downpipe has been unavailable for many years, this had been patched over and over to get through. I had always had a small exhaust leak somewhere up front and this had been my number 1 suspect for some time. 

     

    Since I had finally killed my exhaust, this gave me an excuse to get something better. I am a big fan of stainless steel exhausts on classic cars so this was my chance. I considered getting the Ireland stainless exhaust but then rejected it for a number of reasons. Firstly, as I needed a new downpipe and Ireland did not make a RHD version, I would need to get this from Jaymic in the U.K.  From some limited research I am happy to declare Jaymic as the sole source of RHD exhaust down pipes in the world. Rather than double up on shipping it made sense to ship from a single source and get their exhaust as well. Secondly, the overall price was OK - not because it is particularly cheap but because the pound sterling (GBP) was getting hammered due to Brexit. Export trade being a silver lining for the Brits. Thirdly, I am not really looking for anything more than a mild upgrade. The Jaymic system does this through decent mufflers but uses stock sized piping. This means less problems in getting it to fit using stock hanger locations, brackets etc and no gaping 'coffee can' at the rear, just a nicely polished tip.

     

    The exhaust itself is well made, fits well and sounds good. Jaymic gets them fabricated by Larini Systems Ltd in the U.K.  Looking at their site they obviously know a few things about performance exhausts. https://www.larinisystems.com/technology/lightweight-mufflers so I am expecting a reasonable life out of this exhaust. For various reasons, I did not fit the exhaust myself as I would normally do. Instead, I dropped it and the car off at a local Mom and Pop exhaust specialist for the fitting and to get a bung welded in to the down pipe for a wideband O2 sensor as I am planning an AFR meter to assist with tuning sidedrafts later in the year.  I also dropped off a fitting kit, bought separately from Jaymic, with gaskets, hangers and clamps within. The mechanic used the supplied bolts in the flanged joint between the down pipe and the resonator. This joint is crucial, not just for leak free operation but also as a means to keep the exhaust in adjustment and not knocking. After a few return journeys with knocks and rattles, I realised that the problem lay with this joint and the ability to clamp tight enough to stop the exhaust from rotating. The supplied boots were 'necked' and had been tightened until the threads bottomed out. I replaced these with hex head set screws with thread down their whole length. This allowed me to get more bite on this joint when tightening, fixing the problem before I had to get in an argument with the specialist who wanted to tack weld my exhaust. No hard feelings, I would go back there!

     

    When the exhaust was off, we discovered that the existing exhaust manifold had been broken and bodged in the past. A large chunk of the flange had come away surrounding one of the downpipe studs. This had been bodgied up with exhaust cement and was another late entry in the category off suspects for exhaust leaks. I needed a new exhaust manifold so I got him to get his cement out and bodgie it up again until I could replace it. Hitting the FAQ wanted board, Facebook Australia and eventually, the U.K. board wanted, I got hold of a great replacement for my 'rare as rocking horse shit' manifold (at least in Australia).  I got a good deal on one shipped from the UK. Wire brushed and coated with Eastwood high temp paint, it was ready to fit. A new cylinder head gasket (finally got an E30 one with the heat shield) and we are all good. 

     

     

    Label on the centre section

     

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    Laid out. 

     

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    Detail of the down pipe. 

     

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    Detail of the centre resonator. 

     

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    Rear muffler

     

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    Polished tail pipe tip. 

     

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    Replacement exhaust manifold. 

     

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    Break in the original manifold and welding on back. There was no stud installed prior to removal. 

     

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    Reinz E30 exhaust gasket.  This hangs up slightly on the threaded bosses on the RHD manifold for the long lost heat shield. A few punched holes with a screwdriver sort that. Note that the right hand threaded hole is actually straight through to the exhaust runner. I scratched my head for a few minutes as to where the exhaust leak was coming from. M6 bolt fixes it ( though I need to trim it down). 

     

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    A view from below showing the flange between the manifold and down pipe. Much better than the lash up of exhaust sealant and leaks that I had before. 

     

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