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This @esty carpet was fun to put in. I could have done a bit better of a job but it turned out fine. Definitely need a good pair of scissors. Definitely need to let that 3M 90 Adhesive spray sit before you apply it. Definitely rewarding once you are done. Took me about 3 hours. My issue now is fixing my doors and making sure they are water tight and slapping those door cards on. Almost there!
This past weekend was full of activity. I have the M42 officially bolted in, hopefully for good! The transmission and driveshaft are also bolted in and my shifter is finished as well. Here are some pictures of the process. I didn’t take too many pictures of the shifter build but it was a lot of work! I used the original 2002 shifter housing and shifter but had to shorten the housing about two inches. I then cut the linkages in half and used half the e30 linkage and half the 2002 linkage and shortened it the same two inches. The original E30 shifter mount was too high and I didn’t want to weld the tunnel…. so I cut off the E30 shifter mount and now had to somehow bolt this new assembly on. There was two holes beside the shifter selector shaft that I tapped holes in, made little adapters and bolted the whole thing together! I am quite pleased with result! My transmission bracket also requested some creativity as I didn’t want to weld any brackets to the body but instead use the original mounts. The original e30 mount didn’t work at all, so naturally I cut it up. I used only the mounting holes off of it and welded a piece of metal bracket underneath to support it. I couldn’t use the e30 or 2002 rubber mounts so I decided to use the original sway bar end link bushing. I think it worked out great! Speaking of sway bars, I purchased a much thicker Ireland engineering one (22mm). However the original sway bar actually mounts in front of the engine and this aftermarket one is underneath. The m42 is a tall engine and I was nervous to do the install… It didn’t fit. If the engine was a smidge further forward it would be fine. That would demand recreating all of my mounts and shifter linkages, so naturally the only other way is down! I added a small spacer to the sway bar mounts and shaved my oil pan a little. Its very close still and I will have to have the car running before I can firmly decide wether or not it’ll do, but for now I am very happy with it! It was such a pleasure to use basically all new/ clean/ redone parts. Everything bolted together smoothly and even my “custom” shifter lined up beautifully.
Here is my shifter, the linkage on top is half 2002 and half e30. And here is the entire assembly dissembled.
Here is my transmission bracket, and with the sway bar bushing installed.
The engine all ready to go in! Can’t tell you guys how happy I am to be at this stage.
Now to mount my radiator and wire it all in.... Thanks for watching!
Another Saturday, another afternoon at the garage sorting stuff out. James arrived along with his dad who is a bit handy with cars and offered to lend a hand with some electrical issues.
he also took some photos of the car (will put these at the bottom of the blog) can you see his super cool merc infront of the bmw, air'd out
the rest of the deadening materials turned up, however im still not finished yet and need to order some more of the silver stuff to complete the doors.
6mm closed cell foam for the floors and doors.
10mm for rear wheel arches and panel under the rear seats. complete blockage of air born noise.
the 6 on the floor, this will go underneath the peacemat XR and XL (to be continued)
the 10 in the doors, i did also cover the rear wheel well inside that panel.
inside the rear bench seat support.
added the sticky stuff, more to go down still
thats all the silver stuff down for now, doors left to do
now for the ccf to go ontop the tunnel
tunnel covered, theres a bit more to go in at the back underneath the seats, however i still have amps and wires to go in there so need to cut and measure my mounts up first.
meanwhile, whilst james was cracking on with the fiddly sound deadening, me and paul tackled the rear lights (hopefully for the last time), managed to isolate everything and new connectors and wires we had it working (with a bit of head scratching)
numberplate lights arent connected as they are causing me some issues.
the rear deck floors were annoying me and the covering was really old and smelly and dirty, i whipped it off, sanded them back and gave them a prime and coat of black
excuse the messy garage, i will clean it soon
so that was it for the day, really pleased with how much we got done, will be able to have nearly a full weekend on it next week so excited to maybe get some glass in at the front and some more of the sound system.
see the pictures below which paul too. very atmospheric
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Thanks to Erik the seller, the car came with a pretty good line up of after market parts. Fender flares, front bumper, ansa exhaust, momo steering wheel and shift knob, Just to name a few. But now the hard part comes with finishing were he left off. First thing was to get my hands on an engine & trans, which I did
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Since I don't have a puller yet to finish getting the rear hubs apart I decided to turn my attention to another inevitable task, taking apart the front suspension. My newly acquired cordless impact really started paying for itself here. Do yourself a favor, if you don't own an impact and will be tackling some of this stuff, get one. I cant believe how much less I was swearing in the garage. It was almost unnatural. The only mishap I had throughout the entire process was breaking off one of the bolts that run into the bottom of the strut housing. So that will be another project for another day.
If you have not noticed, I take lots of pictures, mostly for my own reference, but since i have them I figured I would share as there may be some other poor soul out there that has not worked on one of these and likes visual reference.
All the bushings on the car were toast, ball joints were burnt toast. I planned on replacing them all anyway, so no big deal. Going to go urethane. I also plan on the IE sway bar kit once the front sway bars become available again. I dont plan on lowering much, probably just 1 -1.5 inches and going with the Bilstein HD shocks/struts. This will be mostly a street car that might see occasional back road corner carving or autocross. It has to be comfortable enough for the wife to drive but fun enough for me as well, ugh.......compromise. That being said, it is a relatively unmolested Tii so I dont want to go crazy anyway. I dont want to make any changes that would difficult to reverse (so no fender rolling or sheet metal mods). I did find though that when I took the struts out the springs had been cut at some point. The mystery is how much and are they factory springs. It may end up taller after getting new springs and struts/shocks in it.
Another odd item I thought was the bottom portion of both sway bar ends links was bent. This car had clearly been bottomed out at least once in its life and the bottom end links got a piece of the action. I was able to get the nuts off the bottom and then just cut them to get them out. Again, these were pieces i intended to replace, so no loss really.
Enjoy the pics
First, thanks for all the productive comments in my last entry. Please keep them coming! I don't know if I should be grateful for that link to MP&C's tutorials or if it is an “ignorance is bliss” type of scenario. Regardless of the situation, that Garage Journal thread has been a complete time suck but incredibly motivating and answered my previous questions about master auto body technicians – Yes it can be made perfect. This guy does it with all his panels. Here is the link, again.
After reading pages and pages of the thread, trying out different things then venting my frustrations to my loving and patient wife; she hit me with a very stark remark.
“Comparison is the thief of joy.”
Truer words, one might say. And I am most certainly one who would say that.
Not to make this any longer, but here are a few pictures from our trip to the 24 hours at Daytona. It was a much needed trip out of dodge to a warmer, sunny (read bitter cold and rainy) place. This is my 4th or 5th outing to the 24h race and it never disappoints.
The M12 was not in the E21, I looked.
She looks good in a red 356 right?
One thing that has changed that I was bummed about is that you can't stand next to the fence at turn 1 of the tri-oval anymore. That was always a religious experience. There was a new BMW “art” car by Baldessari. I put art in quotes because it was far from an art car if you ask me. If you go, make sure to get the garage pass, it is well worth the extra 25 bucks or so and will satisfy all your late night hunger for fast and furious race car repair.
Anyway, that was just a few pictures.
I started piecing the driver side rear wheel well back together. Taking advice from the comments as well as the Garage Journal thread, I took the time and filed the wheel arch panel to fit without gap. This took a few hours but it was well worth the time. I first cut the panel long then roughed it into shape slowly pausing to make sure that when I removed metal in one area I would not be creating a gap in another. I took my time filing the panel down to shape. I made indicator marks on the body so I fit the patch panel up the same way each time.
I finally got it to fit up very well with great consistency in the contact between the panels.
I neglected to mention that I did all this because I found rust between the original panels eating into the inner and outer fender.
Throw away the butt welding clamps!
Or only use them for test fitting a panel. I will never use them for the actual body sheet metal welding process anymore.
Here is what I found.
When using the butt weld clamps you have to bridge a gap, albeit small, with filler. This causes a huge heat dump into an edge of metal. The heat has only half of the material to dissipate into since it is not contacting the other panel yet, thus you have a very good chance of burning through the panel not to mention almost 100% chance of warping. To account for this, you may turn your heat down on the welder (#1 on my Hobart), and maybe turn up the wire feed.
However, if you butt the two pieces of metal together the heat can dissipate into both panels making it less likely to burn through the panels. With the panels butted together I had my welder set to #3, a whole 2 clicks up on heat, with a slow-ish wire feed. The slow wire feed kept the weld proud low but the weld penetration remained complete. I did not burn through the metal once.
I used the spot weld, planish, grind method outlined in the Garage Journal thread with good results. Honestly, I wasn't sure what I was doing or looking for at first. I slowly started to understand the on dolly, off dolly planishing techniques and how they actually work, or don't work.
The process, as I understand it, goes like this:
1. Fit up the patch panel snugly and tack in place. I don't know how far to space the tacks, but I tried to space them about 6 inches apart and had what I think were good results.
2. Planish the panel to fit the contour of the body. I noticed that the wheel well patch panel does not have the same contour as the original body. The vertical curve, or “the hotdog” as I was told it was called, is not present in the patch panel.
3. Grind the welds just proud of the sheet metal. I only have a 4 1/2” angle grinder so I used a old cut off wheel that was worn down so it was easier to control.
4. At this point, I double checked my panel alignment and did little adjustments as needed.
5. Weld another spot weld over the last set of spot welds. I did about a 50% overlap of the previous spot weld.
This is a long and tedious process, but the time consuming nature of the process has a secondary benefit of making you wait for the weld to cool whilst (I sound like a bloody Brit!) staying productive. This tends to keep warping down to a minimum.
After all the weld was completed (it took me an entire day) I took my 120 grit flap disk and started taking off what was left of the weld proud.
I did notice some low areas especially in the lower back corner of the patch panel. I thought heat would be necessary but I was able to pop it out with the hammer and dolly. I applied pressure to the low spot from the inside of the trunk with a dolly that closely fit the desired shape of the body panel then, using the off dolly technique, I planished around the low spot. I could not believe how well the low spot was lifted. I am every bit of a novice at this and it worked very well for me. By no means is it perfect but I lifted about 95% of the low spot.
Apparently you want to leave the on dolly planishing for the final small adjustments to the sheet metal distortion. On dolly will stretch the metal, so if you are not close to the final desired shape you might want to avoid on dolly planishing – from what I understand.
Also, for Valentines day the lady got me a bead roller! It's pretty cool. I will be reinforcing it with some square tube or angle iron. It came with six sets of dies so I made a little hanger for the dies that are not being used (top right of the picture).
I will say this is addicting work. I never thought I'd be this far into a project like this. It's a great learning experience.
With the engine mocked up we've been able to make some good progress on various custom parts to get everything to fit.
First is the custom 4 to 1 header. Based off a Stahl race header that mtuner had lying in his vast collection of '02 parts. Cut up an straight 6 header to use the square flanges to mate to the S14 head and it came out pretty nice. We clearanced (BFH) the floor pan to give additional ground clearance, but no interference with idler arm or frame rails. Tapered the collector to 2.5" and will install a V-band flange to mount the exhaust to.
Then moving onto the transmission. Using the stock 265 tranny from the E30 M3 which fits just fine after some judicious heating and hammering of the tranny tunnel. Wanted to use the stock mount crossmember so have tacked in some mounts for it (with captured nuts) to get it all lined up. The rubber mounts we are using actually come from an E24. They are half the price of new E30 M3 mounts, and a bit stiffer without having to go the poly route which I was trying to avoid for NVH.
Less involved, but still pretty, I also cut off the fan stud on my refurbished water pump to better clear the radiator. Through some lower profile screws on there as well!
Next up is going back to the rear end to get the diff and sway bar mounts sorted and the drive shaft measured and cut. Then its onto the roll cage!
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The shirts I designed are finished. Thanks to those individuals who reached out to me and wanted a shirt after I posted the design on my previous blog post. The first 7 or 8 shirts have already been mailed out. I only printed 20 but I still have about 10 left in sizes medium, large and XL. The price for the shirts are $20 each plus $5 for shipping and handling. Please message me If you are interested.
The shirts are super soft, next level brand and the graphic is a two color screen print so it will last a long time.
FYI - The shirt design is tongue-in-cheek and not intended to be a literal german translation.
Bought my first bmw on friday, a 1968 2002 which looks to be all stock.
Ended up being a good find.
She runs and the interior looks awesome. Brakes were a little deep, but I'm hoping they just need to be bled. Wiper relay switch is broken and I only have one wiper at the moment. Also the gas and temperature gauges are not reading correctly. Some surface rust on the paint, but all the lights are working! I'm in need of the left side mirror glass if someone has a goos one they'd like to get rid of. It's officially my birth day today and I really think this is the best present I have every gotten myself. Haha
Lots of work before I can get her passed, but I hope to transder title in the morning..
I still don't know what to do, I just really want her as a daily. I have about a 45 minute commute thats normally half streets and half highway. The speed limit here is 70, so I would like for her to ride easily at that range, but I dont want to sacrifice thay low end. I love how well this car pulls through all gears!
Any and all ideas are welcome! Guide me along the correct path that is the 2002!!!
At first it was pretty easy to fabricate this part. Once I got to the corners though, the challenge really began. It all came together well. Gonna make an oil filler cap eventually.
Every form and cut is done by hand and measured roughly off of the actual part. Had to use a wooden dowl for the breather tube since I did not have a tube that size and did not want to make one by rolling thin cardboard sheet.
Enjoy the madness of this build in my other entries. More to follow.
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Here is a short video of the exterior of Derby and some pics after I cleaned him up a little...
I've noticed in pictures that the color is different from angles and lighting....
I absolutely am in LOVE with this car... it's so pure, unadulterated, simplistic beauty that makes it so attractive. Such a different caliber from a car like Tesoro... but both very special to me.
More pics coming soon!
I've had a few spare moments to get the car cleaned up a little bit by going panel by panel with a rubbing compound and a claybar and deep cleaned the interior. I'm still pleased as punch to own this car, but it's sort of like peeling an onion - the more time I spend in/around/under the car, the longer the list gets. Full disclosure: I'm brand new at maintaining these cars, I've been learning what I can on these forums and in the Haynes manual but I'm totally open to guidance and commentary.
I inventoried the spare parts I received with the car.
New in box:
- Slave Cylinder
- Distributor Cap
- Distributor Rotor
- Turn Signal relay
- Muffler hangers (2)
- Trans seal
- Fuel filler neck
- Door Brake
- Flexible silver trim for the door cards (?)
I have the original/spare:
- 8-10 rectangular side reflectors both red and amber
- License plate lights
- Knee trim (under steering column)
- Taillight assembly
- Sides of rear bumper
- Upper and lower rear trim
- Set of exterior door handles with keys
- Glasspack style exhaust resonator
In addition to all of this I received a case of Oil, Transmission Jack, Floor Jack, and Engine Hoist. Porsche Bob (the previous owner) was generous enough to give me all of this stuff on a return trip, and we have an open line of communication if he is able to dig up any more parts. His garage is like a German car museum, I didn't want to trouble him to dig any further than he already had. I did have to pay back fees to get the car registered which was a bummer, but not unexpected.
I've probably put 25 miles on the car and have been hearing all kinds of noise from under the car, nothing ominous sounding, but enough squeaking/rattling and occasional grinding to give me warning. Turn signals stopped working, wipers do not currently work, and the stereo turns on but I have no sound. I plan to take the car to a shop for a safety inspection and compression/leakdown test to get a better idea of what could be going on. I'm not seeing any smoke on accel or decel, but the car is definitely running rich and blowing black sooty particles all over my garage and driveway when it is warming up, and the underside of the bumper is getting pretty black even in the short amount of time I've been driving it. I changed all the fuses and gave it an oil change with plans to do brake fluid, transmission fluid, differential fluid, coolant flush etc.
The car has a Weber 32/36 on it, which needs a tune at the very least. The hose situation on the top of the motor is a little intimidating, I'm trying to get an understanding of how much can be simplified there.
I'm finding some strange things that need addressing as well. The car has what looks like an E21 radiator installed, but the hose setup leaves some to be desired. The lower hose contacts the body, and it appears that a preventative fix was created out of the side of a steel can. The metal piece midway up the hose (Thermostat?) is contacting the front of the motor and grinding away the bolt there.
Crawling around under the car was encouraging, it is extremely dry rust-wise. The driveshaft is newer, Guibo looks like it's in decent shape, and the motor mounts look fresh. There is a 32/36 shaped ding on the underside of the hood, I'm going to guess the mounts were changed shortly after that occurred. Passenger side control arm and bushings appear new, all the rest is pretty dried and looking tired. The exhaust is a Magnaflow Can with no resonator, I'll need to replace everything from the header back since it was welded together, it is loud and a bit raspy for my taste.
The Interior will be a job unto itself. I removed the sheepskin covers and the towels that were used as seat padding and found this. The seats are in very poor shape, the carpet is totally done, and I can see the ground through the pedal box. Is there a cover on the box that I'm missing?
Overall I'm staying optimistic about this car. I've got a pretty strong sentimental attachment to it and look forward to slowly bringing her back up to driveable condition. I've put together a list of things I'd like to replace immediately just to get it to a baseline, again I'm open to critique:
- Distributor Cap
- Plug Wires
- Coolant Hoses
- Fuel Lines
- Fuel Pump
- Stainless Brake lines
- Brake Pads
- All suspension bushings
I've been eyeballing the steering and suspension refresh kits from Blunt, and will need to get new tires. Basically anything consumable I'd like to replace. Down the road I will look into different ignition setups and dive deeper into extracting performance, for now I just want to be safe. I was able to take my wife on a date in the car last night, I'd forgotten how much attention these cars get. Too fun.
Rebuilt motor by Eric Kerman, tii block, E12 head, teflon bearings, Schrick 292, port matched intakes. Gorgeous!! Time to add the DCOE's, 123 dizzy, header etc. Flywheel to the machine shop, clutch and once that's all together and the front subframe is all together I can marry them and hurry up with the body.
Last time I was out to work on my car, I brought a piece of the rear seat bulkhead to repair.
As you can see, the bottom edge was totally rotten. YUCK! While most of the bottom inch is going to get cut off, there is a few inches of solid metal I wanted to preserve. On the pic below, you can see the top right. I need to remove the old floor metal that has been spot welded on to the flange.
In the next pic you can see where I have wire wheeled the flange and found the spot welds. I've also ground down the metal around the spot welds for easy removal.
Next I grabbed on to the remaining bit of floor with a pair of vise-grips and peeled it away from the flange. You can see the nubs of metal left here (and also where I have ground two of the nubs flush.)
Take some measurements. Scribe some lines. get ready to start cutting out the cancer.
Bend up a new flange out of some 22 gauge steel. I thought I had some 18, but this will work. Clamp it tight to the panel so I can scribe my cut line on to it.
Wire wheel through the paint and rust. Start welding.
The blow out was my initial tack weld, where I had my welder set to hot. I really want to modify my welder to have infinite temperature variation rather then just the 4 positions it currently has.
That's where I left off last night, as it was midnight and I did not want to piss off my neighbors by turning on my air grinder (and I was exhausted).
Welds need to be ground smooth and primed. Hopefully the next time I get a work weekend on my car the rear floor will go in and I'll be able to weld in this piece of bulkhead.
But better to get this done now for homework, then waste time on a work weekend futzing with it.
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With the body away, its time to begin rebuilding!
- Crankcase stripped, cleaned and new core plugs installed. Painted with high temperature black from Eastwood.
- Cylinders deglazed, pistons checked and in good condition with proper clearance
- Crankshaft journals polished to a mirror finish. No wear groove on the rear seal
- New piston rings, main bearings and big end bearings from Ireland Engineering
With the crank installed and buttoned down, it turns easily and freely as smooth as glass. With the pistons in, the engine can still be turned over by hand. Everything moving nice and freely and smoothly.
As promised I have some updates for the exhaust system. This was a mega pain to finish, mainly because the weather was lousy this weekend.
Ever try to weld in 40mph wind gusts? Not fun.
But first, some pics of refitting headlights and rear roundel.
In a previous posts, I mentioned that the roundel for the rear panel did not fit with the grommets. So, I decided to cut some threads into the posts and install them with lock nuts.
On to the exhaust. The entire system, including hangers is 304 Stainless steel. The tubes 2.5" the length of the system, which terminates in two 304 SS Jone's (formerly Aero) Turbine XL straight through mufflers.
Exhaust from underneath the car. I used 304 SS V band clamps to attached the system to the headers. I might install another set somewhere in the system so it is more manageable to install and for servicing other systems. That crappy throttle lever is still giving me problems.
The result before fusion welding the joints, which will happen sometime this week/end.
And another angle. The hangers are bolted to the body. This makes it incredibly easy to install the hangers and then bolt the system in place as a unit, instead of fighting to slip the rubber hangers over fixed mounts.
Onto the E30 rear subframe swap. This subframe is also found in e36 compacts and Z3s, which have 5x120 wheel hubs. I had always planned on swapping in an e30 subframe, but I had invested in the e36 rear end and carrier. It's not a bad setup, just a bit heavy. I had time to fuss with it, because it rained all weekend. What really set me on this task was the need to have to have the subframe and axles installed before I could finish fabricating the exhaust. I am now going to sell the e36 diff and find an e30 diff with a good ratio. I was really set on the 3.91 ratio, and I know that the gear set could be swapped into an e30 medium case diff, but probably not cost effective at this time. Still have to cough up for the interior. I think 4.10 might be too low. Anyway, still mulling it over. The S54 does rev to 8500 RPM so...
After building a jig from the old 2002 subframe by using some large 1/2 bolts welded to square tubing to hold everything rigid, I measured the center pickup points to the diff center line. BMW diffs have the drive flange center line cast into the housing. At least, each one I've ever seen has had the center line cast into the housing.
Here's what I cam up with.
The subframe has to sit forward to the pickup points so that the center of the rear hub will fit in the center of the rear wheel well. This was confirmed by measuring with a plump bob, and cross measuring from the subframe pickup points to the differential mounting points on the subframe. Now, I will need to fab up a mount for securing the differential to the body. I plan on making a second diff mount.
Gussets for the front and hey it works.
Installed and it works. This is so much easier to install that the other subframe I had built.
Before I finished the exhaust.
Installed with the rear trailing arm, which also has new hard line brake tubing thanks to the rainy weather.
The wheel sitting nicely in the wheel well.
This weekend, if the weather behaves, I will clean it up and go pull an e30 diff from the bone yard and fab the mount. Hopefully, I can find something. Pretty slim picking when it comes to e30's in the local wrecking yards.
That all for now. More to come...
I took a trip to my mechanic to talk about next steps in the process, and he gave me the option to disassemble the head, then take it directly to the machinist. Since I don't have the "special BMW tool" to get all the rockers just right to slide out the shafts, I had to improvise....
I used various size 3/8 extensions, a hex head to fit into the plugs on the front ends of the rocker shafts, and a medium sized hammer. The one thing my mechanic said to be careful about was mushrooming the end of the shaft, which would then distort the rocker shaft journals.... I think I was careful enough to avoid that....
This was my homemade tool to rotate the camshaft to get the rockers to clear as I pounded the shafts out. Worked pretty well I think....
This is the shaft plug that has a hex head on it. I used a hex head socket to fit in that, so as to minimize the possibility of mushrooming...
And there you have it.... I will leave the valves in and hopefully surface them and reuse with new guides and seals. New rocker arms, shafts, hardware, head gasket, and I should be in business....
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Like most of my car, the rust I saw was just the tip of the Iceberg. It took another near full day to strip off the past two paint jobs and rust. After getting down to bare metal the bottom three inches were pretty much gone. After getting to that point I hit the whole thing in a light coat of self etching primer.
Then it was on to using the lower door skin from Wallothnech. First of all they do fit pretty well. Removing the old one was as simple as marking the outline of the new panel, cutting with the cut off wheel. Then around the edges with a flap wheel and the skin peels right off. The tabs on the back do have a few spot welds. Then I cleaned up the panels and hit the whole inner structure with rust reformer.
The new panel is straight, doesn't really have the slight curve. After a little finesse with the hammer and dolly and liberal use of clamps it was in place. Then about a million tack welds later it was in. The last part was folding over the tabs. I don't know if this is truly the correct method, but it made sense to me.
Lessons for anyone wanting to do the same....
1. the panel as is places the seam within 1/2" of the lower character line. If you have good enough metal I would cut the new panel down to stay a little further from that joint.
2. Really take your time welding. I jumped all over the panel, but still managed to get a warp in there.
3. folding the tab on the back is a bit tiring.
4. Be careful folding the tab over. I was a little sloppy with the dolly and it really complicated matters.
Finally getting the blue paint on resulted in a better outcome that the rest of the car. A smaller panel and better dust control resulted in a better job.
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Before installing the headliner I laid down Dynamat. There have been many discussions regarding branding and I chose what was convenient for me. The shop completing my body work helped source what I needed. I decided to glue some EZ Kool to the roof and also use it for the engine bay and to cover the cabin Dynamat. Where i live it will help to reduce the interior temperature as much as possible. This car does not currently have an AC installed.
Before cutting out the sunroof portion
I'll glue it in tomorrow and let it cure this coming week. I do have the Wurth glue but will probably just go to Lowes and pick up a can of Weldwood and some brushes.
BMW 2002 participant of a festival.
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so in order to go forward, it is time to get to the root of things. i've got all the interior stripped, as well as the engine, and front and rear chassis and doors. only thing left of the car is the body shell, or what's left of it!
there is much rust, and then there is more rust, and then on top of that yet even more rust!
since the photos were taken, i've also pulled off the dash. fortunately there was no rust underneath there! but it will make it much easier to replace the vinyl on the old 3 piece dash that seems unobtainable.
i have the following parts of sheet metal ordered from wallontesch and sitting in the garage, which will go a long ways to bringing 1602 back:
-left frame rail
-all floor pans
-both outer sills
-both front of rear fenders that become the lower outer rear sill
-left inner sill
-lower portion of the tail end
-and last but not least the right lower rear fender
some might say, why don't you just get a body shell and work with that. and to that i say, well i don't think i could find one for very cheap in good condition, AND i didn't think this all out and i kind of want to do this anyway
so i'm not really sure what is up next. everything is down to brass tacks, and we have all the tools and supplies that will be needed (for now). i guess this is where the real fun begins!
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Okay, so I'm back!
I bought an engine and transmission from @williamggruff last year with the intent of swapping it before Vintage 2016, but that did not happen. I'm going to take a stab at it before Vintage this year. I'm tired of working hard to keep up with the pack. I'll store my current stock 1600 for future resale (Like that's ever going to happen!)
I started this tear down with my daughters with the intent of them helping me through it. They did, for the most part, help me with part of the engine tear down. I've "ditched" them for now in the interest of time! They were only 5 and 7(at the time), so I have plenty more engine builds in their future.
Vid Link: https://goo.gl/photos/zNaBnQtCfiYfUseSA
Here's where it sits now:
Not much to taking them down. I just used zip locks and and a sharpie to keep things organized.
I started here:
Don't mind the hammer. I didn't use it....
Okay, I'm lying! But, I didn't break anything. SERIOUSLY.
I will say this clutch has me scared. Any thoughts? Wondering if I can continue using it:
Here is a better view:
She's pretty nasty.... Although I do like them nasty. No...Wait... That's different! Anyway, more shots:
Front end tear down:
Oil Pump Removal. I used one of those Craftsman MAX ACCESS Socket sets. https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-19pc-universal-max-axess-socket-and-ratchet-set-3-8-8221-drive?taxon_id=1845 They do a good job of getting on the nut. I didn't want to use the open end of my box wrench and my standard sockets interfered with the oil tube.
My 2.0 has SWAG!!!!! Okay, I'll stop with the corny puns...
^Timing chain guides.
I was kind of disappointment that I didn't get to use my cheaply made 1/8" stamp set I snagged off of Amazon. The did a good job of marking everything for me.
Do they come from the factory like this or is it a rebuild?
Lastly, here are the pistons. Lots of carbon build up.
This was an FI engine from a 320I (In think 1982), but I will be going with a Weber 2 bbl I got from @ldsbeaker when it's done.
If anybody has any questions or need more pictures, let me know!
Box of stuff left over...
While I was installing my sway bars, I noticed that the lower spring pads were installed improperly, (the notch in the lower pad wasn't lined up with the bump on the lower spring perch). The flat part of the lower pad was riding on the spring perch bump and it was beginning to crack at that position. Probably not the end of the world, but it just bothered me knowing that the springs weren't installed properly. After a few days of stewing, I decided that I would feel better if I fixed this small issue. Really, how hard could it be, unbolt the lower shock bushing, drop the trailing arm, spin the lower shock pad into position and repeat for the other side.
After getting the rear up on jack stands, I started with the passenger side first, removing the wheel for better access. Supporting the trailing arm with the floor jack I removed the lower shock nut and gave the shock a few bumps to move it off its mounting spindle. This is where things went sideways. Instead of the shock coming off in one piece, the metal bushing stayed on the mounting spindle and the shock and the rubber bushing popped off. OK, that's not good, I'll need to fix that later. Now that the shock was off, I slowly dropped the trailing arm with the floor jack to free up the spring. Apparently, the ST rear springs are not significantly shorter than stock, so I break out the spring compressor to free them off the pads. After some serious sweaty wrangling, I managed to spin the lower and upper pads to their proper positions while keeping the spring ends in their appropriate notches on the pads. OK, now how do I get the metal bushing back in the rubber bushing on the lower shock mount? I tried every trick I could think off, liquid soap, c-clamps, installing the metal bushing on the mounting spindle and trying to force the rubber bushing over it). The last "trick" actually compounded the problem by popping the rubber bushing out of the shock. Now what?
After a few deep breaths and some quiet thoughts about how much I love these cars, I went to the trunk and removed the top nut holding the shock to remove it (after finding an allen wrench to fit the top of the shock shaft). With the shock removed, I used a fender washer and my vice to press the rubber bushing back into the shock. Then I used a long bolt, nut and that fender washer to press the metal bushing back into the rubber bushing. I cleaned up the "Billy" which was almost new and re-installed it on the car. I repeated the same process on the other side, but was very careful not to repeat the metal bushing removal by loosening up the top nut on the shock to give it some freedom to move. I ended up just removing the shock completely to clean it up before re-installing. My 20 minute quick fix turned into 6 hours of sweaty struggle.
I only have a few more things to complete and I will call this one done. My plans going forward are unclear. This car could be a candidate for my S14 swap or it could go on the block to buy my neighbor's 75 Polaris car for the S14 swap. Next up, 123 Ignition for the Cabriolet.
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