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Saturday morning rolls around and I've hardly slept as I'm so excited/apprehensive to see how the car looks.
got the call from the shop to say the would be delivering it to the garage around lunch time however, i went to the shop to collect the boot and secure the bonnet down safely.
looks black in the booth
on the trailer minus the boot! note the horrible over-spray on the inner wheel wells that'll be sorted by the end of the weekend
safe and sound back at home (minus the splitter which will be back this week)
little before and after
Not knowing where to start with putting this back together as i'm waiting for some sticky stuff for the rubbers, and my sound deadening.
The body shop guy had said he thought i had a leak in my fuel tank, so we pulled it and investigated.
the plan was always to give the boot a spruce up before laying the boot boards and covering with new carpet. I know its a job which is never going to be seen however its important to me to
know i've done the best i can on top and underneath every part of the car.
very grubby and surface rusty! had some loose rust inside and was worried it would be un-repairable.
not the biggest of holes but there were more underneath the underseal (which was a pain in the a*** to remove from the tank).
i haven't finished refurbishing the tank yet and will do a separate blog post for this as i think its going to come out nicely,
for now we shot it with some primer just to avoid and flash rust whilst it sits during the week in the garage.
i have covered up the tank plaque (which can be seen in the center of the tank). it was caked in paint and after some delicate paint removal from a bronze badge, We discovered these tanks were made in Maidstone around 5miles from the garage!
From Germany to Ireland to Warwick and now back to its spiritual home! this will be kept on show even after the tank is painted and set in the boot.
Coated the bottom with a tougher U-Pol primer for now and the top of the tank i blew over with some High build as i'm looking for a smoother finish.
Next onto clearing out the rest of the boot space, tidying away the loom and brushing loose dirt and grime off.
i forgot to get a picture before we had done this which i'm quite angry about however i did remember to tank one whilst the paint was setting.
i ground the leftover sealant off from where the tank sits, stripped and rust treated the wheel well (for safety) also this was then given a coat of Zinc primer.
I'm sure the missus wont mind me stealing the pink throw for now
laid down the U-Pol on the boot, took a while to dry as it was cold outside!
whilst it was setting we threw some chrome work on just to see how it would look against the new paint.
Really happy with the combination of this colour and the chrome, i'm going to run all the original chrome and trim as it was. i really like the juxtaposition of the perfect paint against the weathered chrome.
Dropped the tank in and gave it a very light coat with the U-Pol before tucking her back up for another week.
Lots more blog posts to come whilst i put her back together! if anyone would like any thing specific whilst im at this stage let me know and i will document it for you.
Thanks for checking it out!
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Like most of my car, the rust I saw was just the tip of the Iceberg. It took another near full day to strip off the past two paint jobs and rust. After getting down to bare metal the bottom three inches were pretty much gone. After getting to that point I hit the whole thing in a light coat of self etching primer.
Then it was on to using the lower door skin from Wallothnech. First of all they do fit pretty well. Removing the old one was as simple as marking the outline of the new panel, cutting with the cut off wheel. Then around the edges with a flap wheel and the skin peels right off. The tabs on the back do have a few spot welds. Then I cleaned up the panels and hit the whole inner structure with rust reformer.
The new panel is straight, doesn't really have the slight curve. After a little finesse with the hammer and dolly and liberal use of clamps it was in place. Then about a million tack welds later it was in. The last part was folding over the tabs. I don't know if this is truly the correct method, but it made sense to me.
Lessons for anyone wanting to do the same....
1. the panel as is places the seam within 1/2" of the lower character line. If you have good enough metal I would cut the new panel down to stay a little further from that joint.
2. Really take your time welding. I jumped all over the panel, but still managed to get a warp in there.
3. folding the tab on the back is a bit tiring.
4. Be careful folding the tab over. I was a little sloppy with the dolly and it really complicated matters.
Finally getting the blue paint on resulted in a better outcome that the rest of the car. A smaller panel and better dust control resulted in a better job.
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Before installing the headliner I laid down Dynamat. There have been many discussions regarding branding and I chose what was convenient for me. The shop completing my body work helped source what I needed. I decided to glue some EZ Kool to the roof and also use it for the engine bay and to cover the cabin Dynamat. Where i live it will help to reduce the interior temperature as much as possible. This car does not currently have an AC installed.
Before cutting out the sunroof portion
I'll glue it in tomorrow and let it cure this coming week. I do have the Wurth glue but will probably just go to Lowes and pick up a can of Weldwood and some brushes.
Well today I finally took the last steps to remove the cylinder head.... Here is what I found....
To me, the head gasket actually looks pretty good... I really do not see any breaks in it....
Let me know what you think...?
So, here is the head...
Thus far, I do not see any corrosion in the passages on the head, but will have it checked out... you might recall I found some of what looked like coolant drips on the exhaust manifold flange, which I suspected was either the head gasket break, or perhaps a cracked head. Here is what it looks like it really was...
Yes, a pretty nasty crack in the manifold... my question - can this be welded, or are tii manifolds available, barring repair?
More to come, comments are gratefully accepted...
I would like to ask that if you have a question or wonder why I didn't do something a certain way, or even better, some tips on how to do something better, please put them in the comments or PM me. My method is usually try to figure it out and if I can't Google it. That doesn't mean I thought everything through properly and I'm always looking to learning more. So:
Four months and (some) progress!
Thank god I’m doing this before kids. Its difficult to find time but determination and drive is still strong. I am fearful of needing to tell someone “Oh that? That’s the project car I never finished.” Please do not misinterpret this as a “Well it looks like that’ll work, let’s move on”.
When I left off, I had tipped the car on her side and scraped the entire underside down to bare metal. A task accomplished much easier with the car on its side. And if you are going to be welding, you might as well weld up an errr, car tipper(-er?). After it was scraped and wire wheeled, I prepped for POR15.
I read the directions and put down some plastic so that after I degreased and etched the underside of the car I could rinse it out of the garage.
After degreasing and etching, I scuffed the underside and began to apply the Rust Preventative Paint in a thin coat as directed. I applied two coats in two days. I used about ¾ of the quart for the parts that I painted. I did not paint the wheel wells or the trunk portion past the diff mounts. I would suggest buying 2 quarts to cover the entire underside plus front and rear wheel wells. Buy the crappy paint brushes. It's not worth the hassle of trying to clean them after this stuff. Just throw them out and move on with your life.
I didn't realize how thin of a paint it was. I was expecting a thick epoxy, but it really quite thin and runs quickly if too much is applied.
Shop Manager Poncho thought it turned out pretty well and gave me an 'adda boy paw shake.
I then purchased 3M Ultra Pro 8300 Auto Body Sealant to seal up all the welded joints on the underside. I think it was about $25 a tube. It worked pretty well and uses a standard caulk gun.
3M instructs the user to really press the sealer into the joints with your finger. I believe they suggest waxing your glove so the sealer doesn't stick to it. I did not do this and it did stick to the glove which became frustrating and tiresome pretty quickly.
The weather got too cold so I have yet to put on the POR 15 Top Coat over the paint and seam sealer. I'll do this when the weather warms up again. The car is high enough off the ground where it won't be a problem.
After I sealed as much as I could, my friend down the street came by and we flipped the car back right side up. I welded a saw horse for the front frame rails that picks up the front sub frame bolt holes so the car won't slide off.
I built a wooden support for the rear that slides into the rear diff ears. A 2x6 fits perfectly right in.
The car now sits about 38” off the ground.
Then I got back to the body work
What I have learned about sheet metal and bodywork is if you’re not willing to do it all again, you shouldn’t be doing it. It is not easy and the only way to learn is the hard, arduous way. I welded parts on, then cut them off because I didn't like the fit. I have found that the seam between two sheets may bulge out, sink in or stay perfectly tangent or co-linear. The latter of the three was very rare for me. What I found was that if the seam is going to either bulge or sink, you would rather have it sink. If the seam bulges you will be grinding the weld until it is pretty much gone in order to get the body lines correct. In most cases you will grind through the weld way before the body lines return to their correct contour. If the seam sinks, then after the weld is ground to or below the body line, it can be filled with a light coat of body filler. I am not sure what a master auto body specialist would do, I assume all their welds would be perfectly tangent to the body lines and they would just do minimal skim coats of body filler. I am no master auto body specialist.
Also, A body hammer and dolly block kit is very useful and really helps out. I have the GearWrench 82302 kit
I welded on the passenger rocker patch panel with good success and the lower rear quarter patch panel.
Going slow is key. If you move too fast and put too much heat into the metal, it will distort. I thought I was going slow enough and I wasn't. I ended up cutting the rear panel out and welding it back in because the seam bulged out.
This is not the time to run a long bead. Short penetrating tacks followed by ample time to cool.
I am currently welding in the passenger rear wheel arch pretty successfully. I am getting a sink in the seam in some places, it isn't too bad and can be filled easily with a light coat of filler.
My goal is really to keep the need for body filler to a minimum and have good, quality welds holding the car together.
I also replaced a patch in the spare tire well. It was a little tricky but actually came out well. I did this while the car was still on its side.
It was difficult because it curved around from the bottom up the round wall. After I cut out the bad metal, I hammered it flat - what we call a flat pattern - so that I could replicate the piece from new metal.
I tacked it in then began massaging the metal around the bends, tacking it in as it started to line up.
I wish I had more to report, but thats about it.
Back to the garage. No rest for the weary! Well, maybe for the shop manager.
Not a ton of definitive progress, but have been working on mocking up the location of everything in the engine bay, etc. As usual going to be heating and hammering a few spots to make room for the header collector. Mtuner is working on a custom 4 to 1 header for me and I think I am going to take a stab at a side exit exhaust. Need to get tranny mounts (using the M3 cross member mount from the 265) and driveshaft cut and rear end finished after that.
In the meantime the head and throttle bodies are at the machine shop getting ported.
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BMW 2002 participant of a festival.
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Here are some updates on the reassembly. This first pic is of another angle before getting started. I also removed all the flares while working on the car.
Driver's side. Paint is pretty nice, of course like anything, if you look for flaws you are going to find them. They are minor and I have planned for some touch ups, after assembly.
Installed the trunk and trunk seal. If anyone has ideas on installing the rear panel roundel / emblem please let me know.
The studs on the back of the emblem fit so snugly in the holes that there is no room for the emblem grommet and I don't feel like enlarging the holes on the fresh paint.
I also installed the gas tank, and fuel lines, using a silicone seal between the tank and body.
At this stage you can see that I riveted in the quarter window channels and installed the quarter windows. Installed 3 point seat belts in the front, but decided against the 3 points in the rear because of mounting issues.
The seat belts I am using are American made Key Safety Systems 3 point belts that are Humvee / Army surplus - brand new and cheaply sourced on Ebay. Very high quality as well and standard equipment for many car manufacturers.
At the bottom right of the pic you can see the 7/16 - 20 bung I welded into the rocker.
I have scoured junkyards looking for BMW hardware and, interestingly, I found that all the seat belts are attached with SAE bolts and hardware rather than metric - weird.
I also fit the e24 rear seats by following the tutorial in this forum. I test fit the rear interior panel and there is a slight gap between them and the seats, which will have to be filled.
I will cut out the rear parcel shelf, since the one I made will no longer fit with the seats in stalled. I have installed Eastwood's Xmat sound deadening material in the trunk and inside the rear quarter sections and on the roof.
On to the engine and transmission install.
I decided to go with an older style clutch and flywheel, as the dual mass flywheel is prone to failing, and expensive to replace when it fails. The one I had on the s54 engine sounded like it had sand in so off it came and on went the aluminum flywheel and high performance clutch. But first, a new pilot bearing.
next I installed the clutch, naturally. You may notice the oil pan I am using is from and e34 m50 front sump. It has an integrated windage tray. I would end up fabricating an aluminum bracket to hold the dipstick securely to the oil filter housing.
The s54 oil pan and pump off.
A poor shot of the m50 oil pump and with s54 oil pump drive gear.
Clutch fully mated to the flywheel and torqued to spec.
And another angle.
Engine and transmission together.
Next day and my crazy idea to put the engine in from the bottom. I was really trying to avoid damaging the freshly painted firewall. This tuned out to much more difficult than anticipated. I have normally put the engine in from the top and then mated the transmission from the bottom, but with the door on, fresh paint, and clutch installed, I was hesitant to try it and screw up / undo all the body work. A side note, the s54 is canted 30 degrees to the passenger side, as apposed to the m20 and I think also the m10 which are 20 degrees. The s54 is a physically much taller and longer engine due to the head and vanos unit. My commitment to not lose the front radiator bulkhead entirely, is what forced me to rebuild the firewall and transmission tunnel. My aim was to get the engine as far back and low as possible.
So, I clearance and reinforced the subframe.
Beefy steel for the reinforcing plates.
And, the bottom plate.
Gloss black does not photograph too well, but it's plenty strong and gets the engine in the spot I want.
Shot of the engine drive system. I would have to remove all this junk to get the engine in from the bottom.
Positioning the car before placing the front jack stands.
After a few hours, and a lot of choice words the engine was home. I had to remove the accessory drive belt and alternator to fit it through the front frame rails, because of the engine slant.
Griffin sirocco style radiator installed with fabricated aluminum top plate to secure it in place. You can also see the Willwood brakes proportioning valve installed in the firewall just below the steering shaft.
A few days later and after cleaning up the rear end, I installed the rear subframe and differential as a unit. The differential is a 3.91 LSD from a e36. Would i do it this way again? Maybe, maybe not.
Fitting the e30 rear would probably be easier, and then all you need to worry about is position of the wheel in the wheel well fore and aft. But, this fits, the driveshaft is linear, and ujoints are in good alignment.
side shot. you might notice I welded in some positive lock caster and camber adjusters to the trailing arm mounts. They are stupid expensive for what they are (about $100 per pair), and I wish someone would make these available at a better price. Maybe I'll take the threaded locking plate to my machinist and see if he can fab some up.
And, the rear shot of the differential mounted in place.
Tomorrow, I will finish up the exhaust system and then fusion weld all the connections. Here's what I have so far. The entire system is 2.5 inch 304 stainless.
The ECM ( Specialist Components Typhoon) I am running is alpha-N, so no cats are needed and no MAF. I ordered a cross over off ebay that the seller said was 304. It had tons of obstructions and when I put a magnet to it, the magnet stuck. So got a refund on that. Critter at AR Fab made the crossover for a really fair price. The resonators are Aero exhaust and beautifully constructed. I am also using aero exist turbine mufflers. Anyway, hopefully, I'll get a bunch done tomorrow.
The holidays of course brought somewhat of a stall to my project but we are keeping it moving. Put in the Dynamat and tested the new 6x9 speakers for the parcel shelf. The last owner definitely did some odd things to this car and it has made it even more interesting during this process.
Next step is to get the wheels on and the new Ansa muffler along with the euro chrome rear bumper. Stay tuned for all of that!
Oh(2), and I've got my new clock and key holder set up!
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Fast forwarding 2 months, the car was completely disassembled down to the shell. The doors, hood, trunklid and fenders were taken off, and they along with the shell were media blasted down to bare metal. We said goodbye to paint, body filler, tar mats in the interior, undercoating, and of course most importantly rust. With nothing but solid metal remaining, epoxy primer was applied on the same day to prevent any new surface corrosion from forming.
As previously noted, the trunk floor and rockers will need replacing. in addition the lower A-Pillars, lower nose valence, and rear wheel outer and inner wheel arches will need new metal. The rear strut towers and rear suspension mounts are rock solid. All new metal panels have been ordered from W-N and a few minor areas of fabrication will be required.
From October to the end of December nothing got done on the car. Well, that's not really true.
I got a ton of small parts back from the cad platers, and they look good. But for the most part, until this past week all my time for the past two months has been hunting, making stuff for Christmas in my shop, some crunch time at work, and then the actual holidays.
But this past week, gentle reader. This past week shit got done.
Started the same as seemingly all my other work weekends. Rainy. Yep, I made the 4 hour drive to Richmond in the rain in only 7 hours! A most excellent start. ;-) At least I got to avoid all the sleet and ice back home in PA.
Never mind the cold rain. Lets get cutting.
And test fitting....
And more cutting and grinding and cleaning and osphoing...
And some jacking (yes, there are jackstands under there - just hard to seem them)
And more fitting (getting close now!)...
And weld through primering...
And more panel prep... (and if you have a keen eye, you will see that there has been a little welding too - I shut up the areas where the panel had cut outs for right hand drive cars) The notches at the bottom of the panel are relief cuts to allow the panel to fit properly and tightly.
Its finally time to weld! Lots of layers. Gotta try and stay warm.
Sum total of 2 days work. Keeping in mind I'm NOT a metal worker or welder by trade, I'm pleased! Still need to fill in the fitting notches and grind down the rosettes, (not pictured) but the welds mostly layed down very nice. Little blow through. Panel fitment is excellent. Very tight against all the mating surfaces, though the back edge took a LOT of hammering to get right.
Next day (New Years Eve Day - Day 3) I started on the back drivers side floor. This panel was not NEARLY as bad as the front pass side, but I still bought a new panel for it.
Cut out the rust. I also cut out the bulkhead to take home and fix the rust through on the bottom flange. This will be a fairly easy fix.
Sadly, I lost track of the wires in the spark shower while cutting out the bulkhead flange. The cut off wheel touched them and cut them like a knife through butter. GRUMBLE. But they are color coded and there are not that many of them. Could have been worse.
I did a little more cutting, fitting and cleaning in the back, but now it was getting cold, and it was getting closer to New Years Eve party time. So a quick scrub with Ospho, cleaning up the work area, putting away tools and such and work time was over.
After several work sessions over the summer and fall that essentially equaled "prep," it was very gratifying to be able to start putting good metal back into the car again.
Several steps closer now to being able to put some of these nicer parts back on the car.
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so in order to go forward, it is time to get to the root of things. i've got all the interior stripped, as well as the engine, and front and rear chassis and doors. only thing left of the car is the body shell, or what's left of it!
there is much rust, and then there is more rust, and then on top of that yet even more rust!
since the photos were taken, i've also pulled off the dash. fortunately there was no rust underneath there! but it will make it much easier to replace the vinyl on the old 3 piece dash that seems unobtainable.
i have the following parts of sheet metal ordered from wallontesch and sitting in the garage, which will go a long ways to bringing 1602 back:
-left frame rail
-all floor pans
-both outer sills
-both front of rear fenders that become the lower outer rear sill
-left inner sill
-lower portion of the tail end
-and last but not least the right lower rear fender
some might say, why don't you just get a body shell and work with that. and to that i say, well i don't think i could find one for very cheap in good condition, AND i didn't think this all out and i kind of want to do this anyway
so i'm not really sure what is up next. everything is down to brass tacks, and we have all the tools and supplies that will be needed (for now). i guess this is where the real fun begins!
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Okay, so I'm back!
I bought an engine and transmission from @williamggruff last year with the intent of swapping it before Vintage 2016, but that did not happen. I'm going to take a stab at it before Vintage this year. I'm tired of working hard to keep up with the pack. I'll store my current stock 1600 for future resale (Like that's ever going to happen!)
I started this tear down with my daughters with the intent of them helping me through it. They did, for the most part, help me with part of the engine tear down. I've "ditched" them for now in the interest of time! They were only 5 and 7(at the time), so I have plenty more engine builds in their future.
Vid Link: https://goo.gl/photos/zNaBnQtCfiYfUseSA
Here's where it sits now:
Not much to taking them down. I just used zip locks and and a sharpie to keep things organized.
I started here:
Don't mind the hammer. I didn't use it....
Okay, I'm lying! But, I didn't break anything. SERIOUSLY.
I will say this clutch has me scared. Any thoughts? Wondering if I can continue using it:
Here is a better view:
She's pretty nasty.... Although I do like them nasty. No...Wait... That's different! Anyway, more shots:
Front end tear down:
Oil Pump Removal. I used one of those Craftsman MAX ACCESS Socket sets. https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-19pc-universal-max-axess-socket-and-ratchet-set-3-8-8221-drive?taxon_id=1845 They do a good job of getting on the nut. I didn't want to use the open end of my box wrench and my standard sockets interfered with the oil tube.
My 2.0 has SWAG!!!!! Okay, I'll stop with the corny puns...
^Timing chain guides.
I was kind of disappointment that I didn't get to use my cheaply made 1/8" stamp set I snagged off of Amazon. The did a good job of marking everything for me.
Do they come from the factory like this or is it a rebuild?
Lastly, here are the pistons. Lots of carbon build up.
This was an FI engine from a 320I (In think 1982), but I will be going with a Weber 2 bbl I got from @ldsbeaker when it's done.
If anybody has any questions or need more pictures, let me know!
Box of stuff left over...
While I was installing my sway bars, I noticed that the lower spring pads were installed improperly, (the notch in the lower pad wasn't lined up with the bump on the lower spring perch). The flat part of the lower pad was riding on the spring perch bump and it was beginning to crack at that position. Probably not the end of the world, but it just bothered me knowing that the springs weren't installed properly. After a few days of stewing, I decided that I would feel better if I fixed this small issue. Really, how hard could it be, unbolt the lower shock bushing, drop the trailing arm, spin the lower shock pad into position and repeat for the other side.
After getting the rear up on jack stands, I started with the passenger side first, removing the wheel for better access. Supporting the trailing arm with the floor jack I removed the lower shock nut and gave the shock a few bumps to move it off its mounting spindle. This is where things went sideways. Instead of the shock coming off in one piece, the metal bushing stayed on the mounting spindle and the shock and the rubber bushing popped off. OK, that's not good, I'll need to fix that later. Now that the shock was off, I slowly dropped the trailing arm with the floor jack to free up the spring. Apparently, the ST rear springs are not significantly shorter than stock, so I break out the spring compressor to free them off the pads. After some serious sweaty wrangling, I managed to spin the lower and upper pads to their proper positions while keeping the spring ends in their appropriate notches on the pads. OK, now how do I get the metal bushing back in the rubber bushing on the lower shock mount? I tried every trick I could think off, liquid soap, c-clamps, installing the metal bushing on the mounting spindle and trying to force the rubber bushing over it). The last "trick" actually compounded the problem by popping the rubber bushing out of the shock. Now what?
After a few deep breaths and some quiet thoughts about how much I love these cars, I went to the trunk and removed the top nut holding the shock to remove it (after finding an allen wrench to fit the top of the shock shaft). With the shock removed, I used a fender washer and my vice to press the rubber bushing back into the shock. Then I used a long bolt, nut and that fender washer to press the metal bushing back into the rubber bushing. I cleaned up the "Billy" which was almost new and re-installed it on the car. I repeated the same process on the other side, but was very careful not to repeat the metal bushing removal by loosening up the top nut on the shock to give it some freedom to move. I ended up just removing the shock completely to clean it up before re-installing. My 20 minute quick fix turned into 6 hours of sweaty struggle.
I only have a few more things to complete and I will call this one done. My plans going forward are unclear. This car could be a candidate for my S14 swap or it could go on the block to buy my neighbor's 75 Polaris car for the S14 swap. Next up, 123 Ignition for the Cabriolet.
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I got home today and the transparent UV resistant amber spray paint was there! It arrived days before I had expected. Dropped everything and rigged up a quick test on a scrap lens. The paint was more diffused and less transparent than I would like, but, it looked okay. So, there it is.
First off, merry Christmas and happy holidays to everyone.
First blog post.
I've had this '75 2002 for about two years now. Underneath the bad (bright white!) rattlecan paintjob, it's a chamonix. It's the third 2002 i've owned in my life - the others were '76s, both Verona, both rustbuckets. I loved those cars (and relied on them) despite not having the resources to attend to them properly.
Actually, this is going to be an m42 project blog - i'll get to that, but first, a little background.
Here's what The White Car (this is how the family refers to it) looks like today.
If you're keen-eyed, you'll notice the lack of hood - this picture is immediately after an engine transplant. Not legal in MD to run it this way, but oh well.
Currently it has a 1976 M10 with:
- MSD ignition with Pertronix igniter
- 32/36 Weber
- Electric fuel pump
- 83 (? pretty sure) E21 head
- Stock cam, clutch, flywheel, crank/rods/pistons
The numbers-matching M10 came out earlier this year. It had a 38/38 and (maybe?) a not-stock camshaft, but it seemed a little tired - slightly low compression, was burning a little oil, and had an "upgraded" 228mm flywheel. All of this made it really sluggish and unfun:
The car has other weird things:
- Front and rear seats from an Acura Integra
- Produces sunflower seed husks from nearly every opening (mice?)
- Not real belt trim, chromy tape
- Wiper fluid reservoir removed and some strange plumbing valve that can close off coolant to the heater core. Which doesn't leak. Yet.
So last winter I purchased a donor '76 car from a nice guy up in central PA.
My buddy and I got the motor out right quick.
I was able to keep some other parts: door internals, dash parts, entire steering column, five 13" steelies, etc.
The plan was to use the '76 motor with the transmission from the '75. Because scope creep, I replaced the clutch, surfaced the flywheel, replaced the pilot bearing (terrible, terrible job, ended up having to grind it out with a Dremel) and had a little adventure (that I won't go in to here - see my forum post about this) dealing with the Getrag 4-speed being stuck in reverse, which included me having to open the thing up and deal with it.
Yeeeah. Ended (mostly) really well, though - went back together fine, got a filled with MTL, and shifts like silk. Leaks a little bit though, and it's not the seals, so i'm afraid the paper gasket isn't sealing right. I can't seem to find the leak. May not matter though because of what's about to happen next.
So the '76 motor went in.
First start, head gasket blows.
So I buy another head off a early 80s 318, already pressure tested and leveled, complete with valves. Decided to do the valve seals and measure the springs to see if they're in spec. I end up using this as an excuse to buy a welder, learn how to weld (sorta), and make a rocker lifting tool to extract/install the cam.
Rebuilt the Weber while I was at it. Just because.
Added a Holley pressure regulator too.
Then I pretty much ran out of money, so I sold a sweet, sweet piece of recording gear. The mighty Vintech 473:
(Sorry, that's a digression)
Anyway, that takes us back to today. Starter doesn't like to turn when it's cold. Engine seems to be running way lean but I have not confirmed that yet. But it runs and I can drive it around. I put the hood back on.
Watching the FAQ a couple nights ago and I see someone advertise an m42 for cheap ($200) with a blown head gasket. I try to get in touch but the FAQ was down for like two days. Eventually we connected and I picked up the whole drivetrain, sans differential.
So yeah, 5-speed, fuel-injection, 16 valves. This is going to be fantastic.
And so easy... (hah!)
This has been done many times already, so it's nice to not be reinventing the wheel. Still, I have a couple of crazy ideas to make the car unique. I'm not a purist - the community has plenty of those already thank God - so i'm looking to build something different.
We'll see how it goes.
A few days ago I got off work and drove 3 hours to meet a guy who was kind enough to offer me an engine block after hearing about the machinist situation i was in. During our discussions about the 2002s and racing he told me that he had a number of other parts that I might be interested in. A few emails later and we had come to an agreement on a whole lot more than I ever could have anticipated, Bill if you are on here THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
So to make a long story short we met in Calgary transferred the parts to my car and parted ways rather quickly as it was too cold to talk much longer. My wife wasn't too happy about the new presents under the tree, but how could I resist.
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Things are still progress, albeit slowly, as I continue to miss/forget to order a random bolt or washer for the front and rear sub-frames. That said, my last pieces are arriving this week and I'll be able to mount my front struts, springs, shocks and I should be good to go to mount the front and year over the holidays, weather permitting. In the meantime, I am putting some new CV boots on and re-doing all of the grease and such. Wow, was the current grease black.....no grit or anything and all internals seem to be in good order, but I've never seen something this filthy. It'll be a good job to knock out in the next few days. I've also got the original long neck differential ready for some new drain plugs and fluids.
What's giving me fits is the god damn steering box arm....I've used my press, heat, rubber hammer, etc to try and get that arm off and it just won't budge. I have a complete re-fresh kit ready to go once I get it off, but it's stuck on there like stink on a monkey. Anyway, I'm happy that things are still moving and anticipate getting a few bits for Christmas! Have a great holiday!
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Well, i got the motor in the correct area I wanted it. Good thing is, its sits further back in the 2002 then the E39, Im hoping this will help with the weight dist. Cyl. 2-4 is behind the front axle, but actual weight % front to rear is still unknown till im finish.
I got a custom 1 piece driveshaft made, with CV joint at the Trans, and a larger 1350 Ujoint at the diff.
I painted the diff and cleaned it up so it looks new, also got my wheels for the car.
Pretty happy how I was able to plumb in the airfilters and intake to fit in the vehicle, keeping airmass flow meters. The airfilters will be behind both front grills next to the headlights (cooler air in my mind will reach the motor then.)
The motor fired up, and I was able to run the car around the neigherhood with no issues, looking forward to getting some sticky tires under the vehicle. I used a knock off cheap set of wheels and tires I had laying around with rockhard rubber, which did layout nicely on the pavement.
I went with custom gauges which ill use in the stock cluster, along with 3 smaller gauges to fit inside the Turbo gauge pod that mounts on the dash.
Yes, it's been done before, but not by me, so why not toss up some info on it.
Removing the rear bumper leaves some large holes that will need addressing. The previous owner had Maaco paint it but they didn't bother to remove anything before spraying.
Here's a hint: If you decide to get a cheap paint job on your car, the least you can do is remove as many trim items as you possibly can! Possibly sand it a little as well!
I wet-sanded the rockers but the primer lines are still there, big let down.
Lazy MAACO painters didn't remove any trim.
1000 grit wet-sanding hardly helped.
Large hole for the US bumper shocks.
After massaging the rear '72 bumper (not really a euro, I know) into shape using body hammers I sanded, primed and painted the rear bumper pieces wrinkle black. It'll match the roof rack as well.
The second coat of paint dried like I wanted it to, in a fairly uniform wrinkle and I called it "good enough".
The rear holes for the early bumper are already in the bodywork but the inner holes to get a socket in are not there and must be added.
A punch dimpled the inner panel where the holes needed to be and also guided the drill bit.
Use a punch to mark the location you'll need to drill
A Dremel or step bit can open up the holes for your socket.
Bumper bolted back together easily and I painted the bolt heads to match. I'm not springing for bolt covers on this old thing. $10 worth of stainless hardware was all I needed to add.
The rubber rub strip went back on. The two tone black adds dimension and looks better than seeing empty bolt holes. (Pre-71 "Short leg" bumpers have no holes I believe)
Here's a little trick with a rubber inner tube I used to:
1. Hold the mounting bolts in place
2. Create a"gasket" between the bracket and body panel
The short brackets tuck the bumper under the body lip for a nice tight fit. Not much "bumper" protection but any wack in the rear would cave in a body panel anyhow.
Finally, two holes needed to be drilled in the outer quarter panel to mount the long bumper legs. I put rubber washers between it and the body.
Love the new look for $125 or so and a few days work!
I decided to paint protect the nose, leading edge of the flares and the lower half of the rear quarter behind the wheels.
The nose will chip like crazy, given the geometry. Can't be helped. The stuff is nearly invisible...
Back in my garage for some final trim, rear quarter windows and a bit of electrical. Big step.
Car in the 3M shop for protection
Back home (ya, that feels good!)
Seam on the car...