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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


Our community blogs

  1. Gettin' er goin'



    The Eurokracy car show takes place the week before the Canadian Formula 1, Grand Prix. Now that I have been invited/accepted in the show in shine, it was time to make sure my car was up for it, and the long drive.

    I hadn’t yet started the car with the new Spanish DCOEs but with 10 days until the show I was feeling confident.

    So here’s where the new trouble starts. Show (minus 2 weeks)
    Documented in my “help” thread (starting on page 5) https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/183166-help-getting-it-going-timing-weber-dcoe/?do=findComment&comment=1177820


    I finally got the 123tune, Spanish DCOEs + new throttle linkage installed... Time to fire her up and drive off in to the sunset.




    Unfortunately, things did not go as planned, I could not get the car to idle. After playing around with the carbs and turning the idle speed screw in a fair amount (up to 1,800rpm+), I was able to “idle.” Once the motor was running, so was the fuel, dripping out of stack #4. I assumed the leak was associated with the float level, which I reset that using the dipstick method. Still a fuel leak, I rechecked fuel pressure regulator setting, still had a leak.


    After some investigation and the purchase of a VAC gauge (+ help from 02 folks), it turned out to be reversion and the fuel was actually being pushed out of stacks. I followed a lot advice from the thread to pinpoint the issue with no luck. Finally, 3 days before Eurokracy I gave up on my investigation. I decided to put the old Italian carbs in, I wanted to see if the problem still existed. It did not, no more fuel leak and motor idles at 900rpm.


    So, if I wanted to make the drive to the show, I would have to keep these on and deal with the new carbs later.


    Wednesday night (show minus 3 days), after fooling around with the idle mixture screw, I took the car for the first spin of 2017, it was also the first time I drove it with a heavy foot. I took the car up to 100kms (60mph) on the service road, it was fun and no issues. Finally, some good luck.



    It didn’t make sense to me that swapping the settings from the old DCOEs to the new would give me this much trouble. I contacted redline, Bud Pauge has been helpful. He suggested a few things and recommended that I order the low speed idle kit. I ordered it and will get to this in the future when I have some free time… and after the show. If none of that works, he said I could ship the carbs to him for inspection.


    On Thursday (show minus 2 days), I was riding high from my little drive, so I decided to purchase my Eurokracy show ticket (entering in the show and shine). The plan for Saturday was to leave Dorval, pick up Ernest in Laval, then Kosta in Blainville, then drive to Eurokracy in Mirabel. On Thursday I managed to install the seatbelts for the back “seat” of the car, and paint the wiper arms which hadn’t yet been installed.





    Friday (show minus 1 day), in classic Ernest fashion, Ernest bailed on the show, meaning I wasted time installing the seatbelts for nothing. Never the less, I took the afternoon off to prep the car for the show.


    I installed the IE strut brace.



    Step one, wash it. I used the chemical guys snow canon with their honeydew soap.




    I started with the mothers paint polish, while Kosta worked on detailing the interior. I went to soccer, had a few beers, came back to finish off the job with some mothers carnauba wax. I polished the wheel lips, and the steering wheel center. I dressed the tires with me meguiar’s high gloss endurance gel.


    I installed a commemorative sticker I made to celebrate the 2002’s restauration.



    It was almost 3am, so I went to bed.


    Saturday morning (show day).

    As I mentioned, I live in Dorval (Montreal), Kosta lives in Blainville and Eurokracy was in Mirabel.

    I took off on highway 20 e and then highway 13 n, stopping at Ultramar on the 13 for some gas. When you’re doing 110km in this car it feels like you’re doing 140km.


    Everything was going smoooooooooth until I got back on the highway from the gas station. The accelerator pedal popped off the nubs!! I managed to avoid pulling over and just used the pedal rod behind the pedal to continue the drive to Kosta’s. Once at Kosta’s I popped the pedal back on.


    ~35kms down with a bit of rain.
    Photo in front of Kosta’s place, taken by Kosta.

    Next stop eurokracy!

    We headed back to the highway for iCar, after another ~22kms we arrived at the eurokracy traffic jam.... waited an hour and 15 minutes to make it past the entrance and park in the show and shine section. The whole drive went smoother than I could have hoped.

    Photo of us arriving taken by @flatbroke_


    Kosta suggested I lock the doors before leaving the car to chat with old friends. I locked the driver door, trunk and then the key got stuck in the fn’ passenger door. Something which had never happened before. After 20 minutes of trying different things, the key had, had enough and snapped. Luckily Ernest who was probably not going to come to the show, went to a spare at my place and showed up... AND TOTALLY REDEEMED HIMSELF!



    broken key  


    Photo taken by Pri


    Met some old friends and chatted with some good people. It’s a cool show, the setup, location and the crowd. The Eurokracy boys do a great job and help “put Montreal on the map,” we’re fortunate to have such an event. I got some free merch for being invited to the show and shine which was pretty cool and unexpected.


    I had to take off at 3:15pm because of some family obligations (which I was late for, anyway).


    Photos of us leaving taken by JPL Photography




    Photo taken by Ernest who may have gotten a photo radar ticket on highway 15s.



    Losers can be Winners!


    The guest judge for 2017 was Ezekiel Wheeler (Contributing Editor, European Car Magazine). Apparently it was entirely up to him if my 2002 was worthy of a prize.


    I couldn’t make it back for day 2 (Sunday), but I received a text from Rick informing me that I won “Best Euro,” which I assume is like a the best of the rest, like if you don’t win best of your category you have a chance going up against the other 2nd places. I picked-up the trophy from Rick... and paid him off  .


    Here it is mounted above my back door in the garage:


  2. Not much has happened since I bought my 2000 in July 2016.  It's been under a tarp at my family's house waiting for me to retrieve it and bring it back to SF to start the teardown..hoping to make that happen this fall.  I have ordered a few small things for it though... first is a new model designation badge for the trunklid.  Being produced in late '66, my car originally came with the 2000 lettering above the trunklid trim line...definitely proved hard to find, but BTS Autoteile really came through:




    I also just ordered a set of plates for the car.  I'm still quite far from registering the car and driving it, but I wanted to be sure to get the plates I wanted:




    That's all for now =)

  3. That is the question I have had to ask myself as I look at my blog and its last entry. Some 18 months, Wow, was it really that long ago? A lot has transpired since then, some good, some not so much. None the less I am closer to finishing the car than I was when the last entry appeared but again, there were  a number of reasons why I had lost the desire and probably more importantly,  the dedication to maintain the entries. I have learned that life sometimes gets in the ways of our plans and dreams. But I digress.


    The plan is now to update this blog  as best I can while I put my recollection to the test. So here I go!




    In the early part of the  New Year 2016, my car finally came home after some 16 months at the restoration shop tasked job of injecting new life into this classic.. Just happy to have it home, I found myself on more than one occasion just sitting there, gazing at it,  Finally it's painted and I can actually start to pit it back together. l soon began visualizing myself driving ...actually shredding  up some BC back roads, or down the Oregon Coast and even down the PCH, I was stoked that it could possibly happen that summer, maybe......ya right!




    I quickly learned all the dreaming, simply would not be in the cards.  All the time spent on acquiring the parts I needed, all the plating, powder coating, painting and the many hours on the prep work put in on the interior and suspension, were not going to help speed things up. I would soon find out  the many things that were out of my control were about to materialize and dash my hopes of having a running and driving classic, restored to it former glory anytime soon. 


    So, with a freshly painted car just sitting there I started  yet another journey in putting this back together.  That began with the floorpan plates. With a little help from a set of callipers, seam filler and ol coffee can,  it began. Once the pans were set, I  then sealed the under side with a rubberized material along with the rest of the under carriage. I chose not to have it resprayed as it was in good condition, solid and NO Rust, and I preferred the contrast it offered.






    Once the plates were set, DYNAMAT was then installed to the as much of the areas that I thought necessary. Not the most desirable job to do but it did produce the first tangible change to the car. It felt good to see that knowing I was on the way to putting the car back together. It took a few days and about 100 sq. ft. of material to complete.... my back was happy to see the last piece go in.




    When it was finished I decided to move on to install the front and rear suspension and some of the shiny bits. The parts were taking up some valuable space in my garage and I was anxious to get the car on the ground after almost 2 years on a dolly. So my attention turned to that, however I would soon realize the interior was going to need much more attention down the road. 

  4. The rear suspension on my car was pretty tired looking and like most things where I don't have a detailed knowledge of its history, I was not prepared to take any chances with it. Certainly we are planning an interstate move to Sydney before the end of the year so I wanted to finish up on the big jobs that would keep the car from getting a Road Worthiness Certificate in New South Wales. South Australia is more relaxed about testing old cars and as long as you keep up to date with your registration then they don't test you.


    There was no obvious play in the suspension but the bits of bush you could see projecting outside the trailing arms looked cracked and perished. It looked like this was the original suspension, at least as far as bushes are concerned.  The shock absorbers were, I think, 80's vintage KYBs. I say 80's because the rubber bushes were heavily perished in the same manner as the trailing arm rubber. While the bushes may have been shot, the shocks themselves seemed fine in terms of consistent pressure when depressing them and they consistently returned to their extended position.  People criticise KYBs as being too harsh ( they may be) but they certainly seem to be pretty well made. Out go the KYBs and in come the HD Bilstein shocks to match those up front.




    While doing the bushes, I also decided to rebuild the rear brakes - so shoes, drums, handbrake cables (my old ones were well stretched with small sections of pipe to keep the threads useful). I also bought rear wheel bearings but I set myself the task of completing the work over a weekend and over stretched myself a bit. I couldn't shift the 36mm hub nut with either my air impact wrench or a breaker bar with a long cheater pipe, so short of getting destructive to shift the nuts (I have no easy replacements) discretion was the better part of valour and the bearings lived to fight another day.  I had quite a haul from Walloth & Nesch, especially in terms of weight, so it's good to take advantage of their fixed rate shipping.  When I opened the box, I was impressed that they included a nicely bound parts catalog. Of course it's only marketing but I am a sucker for the hi-res exploded diagrams.




    Everything other than the hubs came apart as it should. After slowly releasing the tension on the springs by jacking up the trailing arm and disconnecting the shocks, the springs and shocks came out. I then stripped the drum brakes, carefully removing the rear wheel cylinders. These are 'only' 6 years old and in perfect condition so they are getting reused. The drums were pretty worn and right on the wear limit plus the shoes, while not that worn, were showing some troubling cracking. I got a pair of rear flexible hoses since I wasn't 100% certain I wouldn't destroy them on the way out. In the end the existing ones, also replaced 6 years ago, were in perfect condition so I left them in place.






    Having removed the springs and shocks it made it easier to reach in from the side to get the halfshaft hex bolts. Not wanting to risk stripping any of the bolts with my air impact wrench, I cobbled together all of my 1/2" socket extensions until I could extend beyond the body to get a good swing with a breaker bar after giving the hex socket a good smack with a hammer to make sure it is seated. On one occasion this still wasn't enough given prior damage so I ended up having to drill the head off with an 11mm drill before winding the stub out with vice grip pliers once the half shaft was removed. I placed the trolley jack head on the flat plate in front of the diff and took the weight. I removed the 'push rods' from under the floor and then undid the large nuts on the body to subframe studs. These came off without any undue problems and with some care the subframe was lowered to the ground and dragged out from under the car. The strip down went quickly and I moved onto tackling the bushes.  With the combination of the screw and nuts from a professional bush installation set and some half arsed pieces of PVC pipe, I pulled the old bushes out having followed Toby's tip of heating them with a torch until they smoked to release the 'stiction' between the trailing arm and the bush. Toby also said that most bushes are actually in good condition internally, and these were exactly that.




    The subframe and trailing arms all got a standard treatment of jet wash, degreaser, jet wash again, knotted cup wire brush in an angle grinder followed by scrubbing with wax and grease remover. The parts were then given two good coats of epoxy machine enamel before reassembly. Nuts and bolts not due for replacement (I replaced all of the hex hardware on the half shafts as well as the sway bar mounts and fasteners) were degreased, wirebrushed and shot with a little zinc galv paint to clean them up. 




    The rubber subframe mountings were date marked as December 1972 which would align with the build date of my car being March 1973. See this post 

    They showed some deep cracking but again felt quite solid for something that is 44 years old, off to the neighbour's pool! While these bushes looked like being original, it was obvious that my rear suspension had seen some work over the years as the left hand trailing arm is a standard 'open' style and the right hand a plated tii trailing arm. Accident? Rust? Who knows. The subframe beam appears straight and the trailing arm tabs look perfect so who knows? I did think of plating the other side but I have heard stories of this warping them and it increasing the rate that they rust out, so I am sticking with my mix of arms for now. 


    The handbrake cables caused some swearing due to their awkwardness, a dark spot and difficult working angle through the passenger door. The old cables came out relatively easily but the new ones took some fiddling to get in. I pulled out the hand brake lever to get access to the new ends and the guts of the ratchet mechanism flew out and the button took off and struck the windshield. I then had to research how it all went back together on the FAQ. I got a bit of practice reassembling that handbrake lever until I realised that I needed to pull the cables far enough through the hole that the threaded section was completely clear and the handle was only bearing upon the cable themselves. Locking pliers, zip ties and levering with a screw driver gave the required cable extension while I squeezed the handle into place without dislodging the ratchet mechanism. Cables firing back into the tunnel, buttons shooting out, swear words flying. Thankfully done now; another job that I would pay money to have seen demonstrated on a moving production line in Munich. 


    While the rear suspension is out, I cleaned and repainted the rear wheel wells and panels under the boot floor. I jetwashed and scraped the collection of road dirt, loosened undercoat and hardened oil out before treating it to two coats of white epoxy enamel with a brush. The existing paint was in excellent condition in general and this served to clean things up more than avert any kind of structural crisis. This car, apart from the issues around the edge of doors, boot and bonnet has really proven to be structurally perfect and free from major rust. One of the benefits of spending your time inland on one of the dryest continents on earth. 




    Reassembly went back together fairly smoothly, the swaybar mountings took some juggling to get right. I had to think hard about how to reassemble but at the same time not torque anything up until back on the wheels. New shocks were installed, springs and pads refitted along with the bumpstops (these were all cleaned up and were in good shape). 





  5. 182kartracer
    Latest Entry

    What a busy week I've had. Monday the 17th is the big day. The day that i take my final step into the real world and start my first job. I'll be working at a company called NEXTEER Automotive where ill be doing R&D work on electric power steering systems. To go along with this new job i had to move from York, PA. to Flint, MI.(Feel free to send me a Brita filter LOL). The move included not only my personal belongings but also packing up my car and everything i had with it. Thankfully my father had an enclosed trailer that i borrowed to take everything with me. I ended up packing the car full with stuff in order to maximize space. 


    For the trip i left at at 12.30 in the morning.The idea was to make it to Michigan before mid day. The other benefit is that there was no traffic so i could get used to towing the trailer without too much stress. I carried on until about 5 am where i stopped just after the PA Ohio border. I took a 2 hour cat nap laying across the front row of the truck. I carried on the rest of the way after that. 


    Here in Flint i'm living in a 2 bed house that i'm renting. The big benefit is the extra large 2 car garage that comes with the place. I can fit the 02 and my daily in there and still have 4 feet all the way around the 02 to work. I look forward to using this place over the next year or 2 to make massive progress on the 02.


  6. I love the look of a vintage roof rack on a 2002.  I searched for months trying to find one but had no luck.  I was able to reach one company that makes them but they only had a limited supply and would not sell me one.  So I decided to make my own, kind of.  I purchased a VW bug rack off ebay and decided to modify it.  It was quite a bit of work because It was too tall as well as too narrow.  So I started by chopping the legs, all 6.  I got it to as low as I wanted it and welded some new metal feet to the bottom of the legs that fit in the rain gutters.  Then I had to figure out how to widen the rack, that was the hard part.  I cut the three cross bars in half and added about 2 inches give or take to the middle of the bars and welded them back together.  For the base of the rack, I left that in tact and instead, welded a 1.75" metal piece to the rack sides where the base connects via a screw.  I'm super happy with how it came out.  It's not going to be carrying any couches anytime soon but it's strong enough to carry some camping gear or whatever.  


    The first pic was taken while I was still working on it.  The last two pics are the finished rack. 




  7. As I mentioned previously the '73 did not come with a key but oddly enough the steering wheel was not locked. After getting the steering column surround removed I could see that someone had replaced the lock cylinder at some point. It was deceptively easy to remove the cylinder. Once the cylinder was out I found an old set of keys and proceeded to re-code the new lock to the old keys. This was accomplished by just scrambling the wafers around and a minor adjustment to one wafer with a file. After the lock cylinder was reinstalled properly I had a steering wheel that once again locked and a car that now starts from the cabin. I was pleased to see that all of the gauges still function as well. 

  8. It seems like more often than not, I start these blog entries with a statement about how “it's been a while since I posted/did anything/blah blah blah”.

    This one is no different. If you want to get to the car progress skip to the mug shot of Shop Manager Poncho.


    Its been a while since I posted an update, but I have excuses!

    The last one was February and now it's July, which makes me feel like a lump.


    I did continue to work on the car for a portion of the time between now and then. Recently though, we moved out of our rental with a one car garage and into our first home which has a detached 2 car garage!


    Most of my weekends in March and April were consumed with house hunting and mortgage chores so I didn't get much done. We moved in the first weekend of June and have been setting up things ever since. The house is mostly unpacked and the garage is coming together. I inherited a 4 stroke leaf blower and weed wacker from the previous owners and bought a Cub Cadet. That brings our cylinder count up to 30 not including the '02 in Maine.

    There is a slight sag in the center girder of the garage so I have plans drawn up for replacing it with a W8x24 I beam and other goodies. Once the I beam goes in I will be able to utilize the area above the garage as a nice doghouse for when I'm in trouble storage area.

    The small workshop in the back will suffice for now. I got some pegboard from Lowes for 10 bucks so that will help with organization for now. It's so much more space than what I had.  It's a great size (for now).


    Also, I got a great Craftsman 33 gallon compressor for a six pack of IPA. I think the seller just wanted to show off his awesome garage and new shop air system...

    Obviously I have plenty of plans for the new place, after the I beam goes in, I'll be running a 220V line from the garage sub panel and picking up a AC/DC TIG welder. I have my eye on an Everlast PowerTIG 200DV right now. They are a great bang for your buck from what my research tells me.  Don't tell my wife.



    So last time I ended with my installation of the rear driver fender patch panel.

    After that panel went in, I moved on to the driver rear quarter patch and learned a few more things during and after the installation. Most notably I found that you want to planish the weld spots with the on dolly method kind of heavily, but not too heavily. If planishing was making grits, you'd want them to be “al dente”.

    When you tack weld the panels you add a little material then cool it rapidly which causes the metal around the weld to shrink. By planishing the weld, you flatten the tack weld out and effectively add metal to the shrunken area of the panel releasing the inward dent you just created. This is obviously an acquired skill, one that I don't fully or even half-ly(?) possess yet. It's like golf - how hard can it be?

    The panel went in nicely using the same weld, planish, grind technique. The old one had about a 1/4" of Bondo on it.  This car has clearly been well damaged over its lifetime. 


    I had a little warping so I tried to planish it out with limited success. Then I tried heat, which was the completely wrong thing to do. I was on a role so I figured, why not? And found out quickly why I should not. The patch panel warped even further and took me even longer to get it back to a point I was somewhat happy with.





    I moved to the front of the car and pulled out the HVAC panel that goes between the engine bay and the heater core. It's welded to the inner fender wings in a few spots and welded to the center hood release bracket in a few million spots.



    Once I got it out, I began cleaning it off and finding some pitting and holes in the panel. I will be cutting them out and welding in new metal. I'll have to replace some of the metal on the hood release bracket because there is so little metal left from where all the spot welds were.

    Then I started looking at the very first welding repair I did to the car, the passenger inner wing which connects to the frame rail. It looked gross. I hated it. It came out. Along with that I cut out the passenger frame rail that I fabricated. There was just too much distortion from rust in the engine area. I couldn't justify leaving it there. So I cut it out and destroyed it, effectively making it impossible to undo what I had just done.




    I fear that I'm turning into my father by keeping everything. To combat the transformation I destroy anything I think I might need in a year or two so that I am forced to throw it away. Anyway, I purchased a new passenger frame rail from W&N. They were having a sale, and with the flat rate shipping they do now, it was over $100 cheaper, not including shipping, than from our North American suppliers.

    The new one came in and I started fitting it up, checking all of the chassis dimensions from the nice binder W&N sent me with all the exploded views, chassis dims, and badge placements. I guess they feel sorry for you once you spend a certain amount of money with them. I was pretty shocked to find that everything lined up within their plus/minus 1mm tolerance from the factory. I was able to breathe a sign of relief.


    I started remaking some patches that I had done with the flux core because they looked absolutely terrible. I was able to use the bead roller to make a similar contour to the factory passenger foot well.

    I have to make the bottom part of the passenger inner wing again unless I can source a donor for that area. If you have one available please PM me.

    That's pretty much where I left off. It was hard to keep moving when I knew I was going to have to pack it all up and move the whole project. I just started slowly packing the garage instead of working on the car.

    Now we are comfortably settled in at our new home so work on the car is starting to come around again. Hopefully more updates coming soon...


    P.S. Good on you if you got the My Cousin Vinny reference.







  9. so this weekend i started finalizing the wiring for the aftermarket sound system, i really didnt want it to go to all this effort for it not to sound as good as possible, so i actually ordered a much nicer focal amp (Still waiting for delivery) but for now just used an old lanzar amp i had knocking about to check the signal and wiring was correct. 


    a real tangle of all sorts of speaker,power,earth,rca's and remote wires all in one area and all over sized at the moment, will defo cut these down and tidy it up before final fitting under the rear seat and hopefully! never been seen again. have run all the cable seperatly to avoid interference from the power into the RCA's or speaker wires. its been a real fun job doing the sound system from a comple blank canvas to actually turning the ignition and it working first time! was really pleased with how it sounds even with just the rear deck wired in. have got a short video which i will upload soon maybe so you can see/hear a taster, but i would like to get a proper video after the car has finished to show it off, its more SQ than SPL.


    along with this, i had painted my bumper supports in the same stone guard black



    was happy with how they came out after a little bit of rubbing down and some nice etched primer. (Excuse the mess)


    i wasn't very happy however with how they mount with that horrible captive spinning nut thing inside the chassis rail.. so we went in with a little rail modification and a bit nut bolt and washer combo..



    it was drilled and sealed up with primer and stone guard before the nut and bolt applied.. very happy with this actually as will make bumper removal much quicker and easier. still unsure if i will add another hole for stability as i quite like one at the moment so i can adjust the bumper to sit perfect.


    thought i would snap a quick shot of the inner wheel arch at the moment as i thought it was looking rather tidy, 


    kinda annoyed i didnt get a picture before as it was horrible beyond imagination.


    just waiting for the calipers back so i can start on the front brakes!!! 

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    Recent Entries

    Latest Entry

    Its a classic tale of a 19 year old kid buying his dream car, driving it, rebuilding the engine, and before he knows it life makes him put it all on pause. 20 years later he finally gets to start the process of bringing the car back to life. My good friend Erik agreed to partner with me on the restoration and with that we started with the first steps. Day one involved much cleaning and organizing. 60 lbs of dry ice, some popping and cracking and the floors were free from the tar paper. This trick is well worth the $150 in dry ice. As its been stated before. The more the better. Outside of the typical spots around the heater box and pedal box the floors are cleaner than we were expecting. 









  10. localhuman
    Latest Entry

    After all the metal work, it was time to prime!




    (Note to admins and readers- I couldn't format photos on this post correctly! Any time I tried to click a photo to edit it, it brought me to new page and lost all my previous saved writing! So, sorry the photos aren't like I want them to be...)


    I've used a few epoxy primers, but in terms of protection, ease of use,customer support and price, SPI's epoxy primer is easily the best for me.  So I ordered some paint and prepped up the garage spray booth.  Since it is not a real spray booth, I am very dependent on the weather for being able to paint, and it just so happened that I got the perfect weekend weather-wise for using epoxy a couple of weekends ago: mid 80s  during the day and mid 70s at night, low humidity and no wind.  


    Everything went on smooth with 2 coats on everything, except for the bottom which got 3 coats.  After it set for a few days, I went back with some 3M seam sealer ( photos towards the bottom ) everywhere I had welded, to make sure any pinholes would stay water tight, and then hit those areas with another light coat of primer as well.


    My next step is to get it rolling so that I can move it around a bit more easily for the filler work.  More on that later!








  11. After getting the car back from paint, I was happy with how it turned out. My buddy who is a painted shot the car for me.



























  12. large.finished3.jpeg.2d2048912ffe954c2415d5bc0cdd8ceb.jpeglarge.finished2.jpeg.6e523b079e653d365b4fc5bdcec14ca8.jpeglarge.finished1.jpeg.fdb0c029d8227a0d5d5ec8cddfec139d.jpeg


    Well, top end rebuild done now, thanks to Mark Hutto, my great mechanic.  Running very well now, but we detected still a rattle potentially in the bottom end... but that is the next chapter.  Will drive for a bit to see how it goes, then determine next steps and whether a bottom end rebuild may be in my future.....

  13. Hello FAQ'ers


    Its been an exciting week as I finally pulled my car out of the body shop to finish getting it driving before the end of June! It is not done with body work yet but is much closer than it was 2 months ago.


    This is a place holder update for more to come soon. Too busy/tired to do a full update. For now a few pictures of the work i did this weekend. 


    You will find in this post , a custom brake fluid resivoir bracket (the old one broke off), oil temp sensor install/ fab video, oil cooler AN line plumbing, oil pressure sender adapter installed, river nuts on everything to avoid dealing with hardware outside of the engine bay walls, and a picture of how it ended up after the weekend of work. Note! There is alot not pictured that got completed as well :)






  14. After removing the head (which seems okay), we put it back on and torqued it down--just to see if the blockage reappeared. It did not. So, the mysterious blockage is gone, and we're debating what to do next. Options include having the head gone through, swap in a used head, swap in a used engine, or go through both the head and the bottom end. Whatever we do, at least we have a new cooling system ready.


    While our car was offline, there were two highlights--doing the design for Rob Siegel's book "Ran When Parked" (we had visited him in Louisville when he worked on "Louie"), and tracking Jason Gipson's '75 Verona build. Many thanks to Jason for letting us borrow the Beer Snob for our trip to The Vintage!
























































  15. Got it pretty much done.  Turned out pretty good I think.




    I'm just kidding.  These are from my trip to the BMW Museum in Munich.  It was full of everything BMW and was all finished to the most perfect of levels.




    So where I am actually at is that I have gotten more of the trim delete closer to being done.





    I got my paint in for down the road.  I am still debating about trying to tackle it myself or to try and have someone do it for me.  I got the single stage 22 Line from Glasurit in Riviera Blue.




    While working on the body work up on the front I noticed that the front nose was a bit loose near the bottom and had noticed that the prior owner had it swapped at some point.  The tabs on the bottom were cut to remove the old one but the new nose never was welded on down there.  I found a few sheet metal screws and decided to pop it and clean it up.  I ground off the old tabs and straightened the sheet metal out then proceeded to weld it back together.  I was going to try to do spot welds to keep it more factory but my spot welder would not get into the locations.  I also straightened up the lower lip and got rid of all the bent portions.  Kinda looks like a boat with no tires on.




    As you can see it had minimal welding done down the sides and other than the few spot welds the sheetmetal screw on each end were about all that was holding it on.




    These are the old tabs and the new one wasn't even welded down here.




    The final fit after getting it welded up seems to be pretty good.




    I dropped the front suspension and went through the steering box.  I think I got lucky and other than a bit of rust on the shaft which cleaned up fine I didn't notice any pitting on the gears.  I used the iemotorsport steering box refresher kit and swapped all the seals and changed the oil.




    Dropped the front subframe and got it into the sand blaster.




    Welded in the reinforcement plate and painted it all up.  I'd like you to all note my awesome welding skills.




    Parts apart.




    I opted to reuse the control arms because they looked pretty good.




    Assembled but only temporarily because I had fresh hardware in the mail but was leaving for a trip.





    Got my hardware to swap in.  Got it at http://wallothnesch.com




    Here it is with the new hardware installed.




    I then proceeded to drop the rear and that is in progress for a rebuild.





    Found a bit more rust that I will have to work on.




    I think these are the US bumper mounts welded into the European mounts.  I was contemplating cutting the US stuff out but think I may just leave it in there.  Has anyone attempted to modify them back?









  16. So, a bitter sweet end to my 1975 BMW 2002 Mintgrun Lite Restoration has the car being shipped off to its new owner in Dix Hills, NY.  I really enjoyed the journey and although it is not practical to own 2 2002's with a 3 car garage, I look forward to finding another car to work on.  Just don't tell my wife!


    I hope the new owner enjoys this car as much as did and starts a new blog on his journey.



    File May 23, 12 34 29 PM.jpeg

    2017-05-23 12.13.02.jpg

    2017-05-23 12.20.52.jpg

  17. collard greens 2002
    Latest Entry

    It feels like I hit a road block, and things have stalled, waiting on parts to come in like the new fuel pump and sending unit. It has really put everything in slow mo... With the wiring being possible the easiest thing to do it's kinda the hardest! C101 connector also came in but I don't want to use any of the old wiring, it just looks to be in bad shape. 




  18. In addition to rebuilding the carb, I also installed an electric fuel pump and regulator.  The Weber carbs are picky when it comes to fuel pressure and the mechanical pump was providing too much pressure.


    I started a post about trying to use a regulator with a mechanical pump, and it just wasn't feasible without having to run fuel hose all over the engine bay.  It also details some of the part I bought

    Carb reinstalled with fuel pump block off plate and new inline filter (Mr. Gasket universal filter)


    The fuel pump block off is Empi 31-3011 as used on air-cooled VWs.  You can find them all over ebay for cheap, or pay more for the same item from a BMW aftermarket supplier




    You can also see the cooling system is finished and electric fan wired up with a coolant temp switch in the coolant housing.  The heater core lines are just plugged at this time because the heater box hasn't been put back in.

    Fan relay and distribution block - https://www.bluesea.com/products/5045/ST_Blade_Compact_Fuse_Blocks_-_4_Circuits



    Holley 12-804 Fuel Regulator installed:



    I wanted to mount a fuel pressure gauge, but had issues finding a good one.  The oil filled ones weren't accurate unless you vented them every time you wanted to check them and they could only be mounted with the vent straight up.  The non-oil gauge just bounced too much.  I ended up adding a fuel schrader valve so I could hook up a typical fuel pressure gauge tester:  http://www.dieselorings.com/schrader-valve-fuel-injection-rated-1-8-mnpt.html


    Fuel pump in trunk, Carter P60504 inline pump, includes a filter.



    I replaced the leaky Ansa center resonator with another Ansa (non-sport)






    While I was at it, pulled the rear bumper off in prep for a tuck:



    And pulled the diamond plate out of the trunk to see how bad it was:



    Yep, it's bad:



    While I was doing the cooling system, I got rid off the overspray in the headlight area and painted the grill.  Also mounted some new Hella lights - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G72SKQ/






    And also painted the wiper motor cover and arms to get rid of the orange overspray:




    No pictures, but replaced a leaky rear wheel brake cylinder and installed a new ST front sway bar to match the rear ST bar.  I thought the one I had was stock, turns out it was an old ST bar, but was a bit rusty and the bushings were shot.


    Head Lights                         $70.00

    Front Swaybar                   $165.00

    rear wheel cylinder              $20.00

    fuel pump                             $39.00

    fuel hose                              $21.00

    regulator                              $30.00

    block off plate                      $14.00

    fuel filter                               $10.00

    schrader valve                     $15.00

    Center Exhaust Pipe            $70.00

    Temp Switch                         $20.00

    Power Distribution Block      $25.00

    Running Total                  $9,566.00


  19. After finally starting the car, there was a horrible screeching sound coming from the back off the engine. Really no way to diagnose the problem without removing the engine and transmission again. I ended up pretty much disassembling the entire car: exhaust, driveshaft, fuel lines, hoses, engine, transmission, radiator, engine wiring harness.

    I discovered that the shaft collar for the throw-out / release bearing was contacting the splined part of the spring pack on the clutch friction disc.


    I contacted gripforce clutches and they confirmed that the friction disc needs to be installed with the spring pack facing the flywheel into the recessed portion of the flywheel, which is not typical. The clutch kit only comes with generic instructions showing the spring pack of the friction disc facing away from the flywheel. After making sure that the release bearing slid freely on the collar, everything clutch related went back on the engine and torqued to spec.


    Getting the engine back in. My first approach was to install it form the bottom, but that was huge pain. So, I rigged the engine differently to the hoist and installed the engine from the top, and then installed the transmission from the bottom. The 10 foot steel cable was used as a safety just in case the bolt holding the engine to the chain gave way. Then, I reinstalled the driveshaft and then the exhaust... again!


    I ordered an O2 plug which will be installed when it arrives this week.



    Installing the engine this way is so much easier. Right now, I am using a cheapy parts store ignition switch to start the car, which I will swap out once I get the new part. Now, I have to clean up the wiring... again. But hey it runs! There is link below to a pretty crude video of the engine running. Dust blowing everywhere as I rev the engine. I am leaving the flares, front spoiler, and hood off or now. They will be the last things to go on the car, which should be very soon.




    BMW 2002 S54 Swap 480p.mov

  20. Today I did a full engine teardown. While I have yet to do the head of the engine and remove all the valves and springs, I was able to completely disassemble the block.  While I already knew the tops of the pistons are likely not salvageable, the rest of the engine looked in surprisingly good health.  


    What surprised me the most was the shape of the clutch as it looked barely used.   What was most surprising, was the fact that I found two broken and to dipsticks in the bottom of the oil pan. I guess you never know what you'll find. 


    Once I get the valves removed, and bring in the entire engine to my mechanic for review to understand in better detail the shape of the block and the extent of the engine rebuild the house to take place. 








  21. vacca rabite
    Latest Entry

    Last week I was back in Virginia to do more welding on the car.With my floor pans being mostly fixed, the next BIG issue were my rockers.  The drivers side rockers were by far the worst, so I decided to start with them.


    Since I had bought the full rocker replacement panel from Restoration Design (who is the NA reseller for the W&N panels), I decided to replace the entire rocker.  This gives me a chance to see first hand how these cars are put together.


    This first pic, well, it isn't pretty.



    The cut off part is getting saved for making patches.  So I've set it aside.



    When doing something unpleasant its best to make yourself as comfortable as possible.  The drivers seat fit the bill pretty well.  Better then kneeling on a concrete slab.




    Even in tidewater VA, nearing 100 degrees in April is warm. Cutting spot welds takes time, and after 8 hours grinding and banging and cussing it was time to put the car back on the ground. As I sat there, in the work bay, drinking water to try and rehydrate, my car almost looked pretty.



    Next day I got an early start.  It was obvious that I was not going to get the new rocker panel welded on, as there is some reconstruction that needs to happen first before its covered back up again.


    Being slightly less warm and having a breeze, I opted to work outside under my Eazy-Up.  This picture reminds me of a little dog cocking its leg up to pee.  ;-)

    At this point I had taken my bucket blaster and hit the interior of the rocker panel with glass blast media.  I also went around the car and hit all the places where the cars had started rusting around the trim.  I found a couple new weak spots in the steel along the way, but they were nothing critical.  You can see that the rust is gone along the leading edge of the hood.



    The interior of the rocker is also looking much better.  I had cut away the inner rocker to get at the rust behind it.  The inner rocker will be rebuilt using that off cut piece from the day before.  Tehre are clearly some areas here that still need work, but I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel for this rocker.



    Unfortunately it was now Sunday afternoon and I needed to be cleaning up.  I hit the bare metal with some black epoxy to keep new rust from forming, since the car will be siting with the rocker exposed for about a month at least.  Before I painted it, I went in with an air hose and REALLY blew out all the crevices.  I wanted to get the cavities as clean and rust/dirt/blast media free as possible so there would not be sludge sitting there just waiting to soak up more water.



    Went around the car and put a bit of epoxy on all the areas I hit with the blaster.



    Both rear fenders have areas like this that blew out when I blasted what I had hoped was surface rust.  Given the cost of the patch panel I'm giving serious thought to getting a set of the IE Turbo flares or welding in a set of Mk1 VW flares.  My orginal scope for this car was to have it almost totally stock.  But with all the welding I'm doing, I wonder if putting flares on would be that great a sin.  I would certainly open up my wheels selection.



    Until next time...





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