This car has had more carb upgrades than all of the other 12 BMW 2002's I have owned. We started with the original 1 barrel Solex, to a horrible Weber 34 ICH, to a Weber 36/32, to a Weber 38/38, to a Weber 45 DCOE 152 and finally to a Weber 45 DCOE 152G. During the final upgrade to the 152G, I decided that the cable-based throttle control that came with the TEP Lynx package (https://www.racetep.com/bmw-m10-2002-320i-single-sidedraft-weber-kit.html) should be upgraded at the same time, so I started reading all the FAQ posts on the subject and reached out to a couple of FAQ members that had upgraded the throttle linkage on their Lynx manifold setup... Crickets! So this was going to be an exercise in trial and error.
I started with a Universal Single DCOE Linkage kit from Pierce Manifolds (https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99006.104.htm). From the description, it looked like it had everything I would need to convert my cable throttle linkage to a top mount crossbar linkage. After the package arrived, there was an immediate issue, the holes on the Lynx manifold are 3/8" - 16 pitch and the rod ends in the kit are 3/8" - 24 pitch, so they don't/won't screw in. OK, easy fix, I just need an adapter stud with 3/8" - 16 on one end and 3/8" - 24 on the other. I actually found a kit of 5 on Amazon, (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QZG3H0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), ordered them up along with new 3/8" - 24 female 5/16" rod ends from McMaster to match the rod in the kit.
In my original setup, I fabricated a throttle return spring using the top mount linkage holes on the Lynx manifold. Now that that area was being repurposed for the crossbar linkage, I needed another solution for the return spring and purchased DCOE EXTERNAL SPRING KIT LT5000 from Pierce Manifold and installed it on the new Weber 45 DCOE 152G. When all the parts arrived, I assembled the new linkage and found that the lever connecting the stock throttle rod to the pedal box throttle linkage wasn't long enough to reach the rod end, so I used a piece of stock steel from home depot to extend the lever, (first photo). Another issue was the rod in the kit was only 11" long, so the lever controlling the stock throttle rod was at the very end of the rod and the levers in the kit were not very robust, (flexible). The result was very disappointing, too much flex, not enough throttle opening and not the smooth action I was expecting at the gas pedal.
My first thought was upgrading the levers to the longer, more robust aluminum versions from Pierce Manifolds, so I ordered 2 of BILLET THROTTLE LEVER 3/8 SHAFT 32000, without realizing that these won't fit the 5/16" rod from the kit. When they arrived and obviously didn't fit the rod, it was on to Plan B. Let's just upgrade everything to 3/8", so I jumped on McMaster and ordered a 12" 3/8 Rod, 3/8" - 24 Female threaded 3/8" Rod Ends, and 3/8" Shaft Collars for my setup. I also ordered a new 8mm Ball throttle lever for the DCOE, because the one from the kit had a stiff action. If you were starting from scratch, these are the 8 parts I ordered.
1. BILLET THROTTLE LEVER 3/8 SHAFT 32000 - $28.65 x 2 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/32000.htm
2. DCOE EXTERNAL SPRING KIT LT5000 - $32.24 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/lt5000.htm
3. DCOE Throttle Lever 45041.009 - $18.40 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/45041.009.htm
4. JPS adjustable rod 75500.100 - $22.50 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/75500.100.htm
5. Rotary Shaft, 1566 Carbon Steel, 3/8" Diameter, 12" Long 1346K11 - $7.58 https://www.mcmaster.com/1346k11
6. Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Thread 60645K34 - $3.78 x 2 https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k34
7. Set Screw Shaft Collar for 3/8" Diameter, 303 Stainless Steel 6462K14 - $3.86 x 2 https://www.mcmaster.com/6462k14
8. Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973217150 Automotive Studs, 3/8-16 x 3/8-24 x 1-1/2 - $10.04 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QZG3H0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
After receiving all the parts and assembling them (see pictures), the results didn't disappoint, the action at the gas pedal is instantaneous and snaps back perfectly. No stretch or lag from the cable setup. The billet lever to the pedal box throttle rod was still too short, so I extended it as before. I treated myself to a pair of new air horns from Corsa Velocita https://www.corsavelocita.com/store.
I hope this helps someone looking for the same upgrade.
Living in the desert has its advantages and disadvantages. Driving our cars in the summer with no A/C is miserable but we do get to drive them all winter long. I've been driving the car quite a bit since I did the engine swap and got a new driveshaft from IE. Still working out an exhaust clearance issues with the getrag 240 rear mount bracket. I can say the car runs strong and alot better than the tired m10 I replaced. The plan is to take it on some long trips and its getting closer to being ready.
Here's the rub. I spent all that time stripping the body for paint and repair and now it's gone. The garage is empty now, except for parts scattered everywhere.
Engine over there, suspension over here, transmission over there, door cards, windshields, seats, header, driveshaft ahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!
I decided to tackle the front suspension. I was smart enough to have my welder neighbor fab up a front dolly for me that I bolted to the car with the suspension bolts before sending it out for paint, which left me everything that's attached to the front subframe lying on the garage floor. My son happened to have an engine stand, so I rented a hoist and lifted the engine onto the stand. Sounds easy now, but as with all these jobs, I research incessantly until the idiot savant in me understands how to do it, and then I take 3 times as long as anyone else to actually do the job, after 5 trips to the hardware store to get everything I need. I've learned to hate these guys who say "oh yeah, that's a piece of cake! 2 hours and a pair of pliers and you should have that job done no problem!" Yeah right. Their 'two days' usually takes me two weekends.
Anyway, I'm great at taking things apart! The front suspension was easy enough, although a lot of Bill Williams' thread came in handy. I'm especially OCD about labeling stuff because these jobs tend to get interrupted, so I took a lot of pictures too. Unfortunately, there are pictures on my phone, IPAD and laptop....can't seem to find any of them when I need them.
I spent a lot of time cleaning the subframe with an angle grinder and steel brushes. Of course I tackled the front engine mount reinforcement with the IE plate. Some say you should box this in, unlike what I did, but too late. What's done is done. I also found some rust that needed repair...off to my neighbor again, who cut it out and welded in a plate. Thanks Ronnie!
The ball joints were a bear IIRC. I literally had to cut the rusted bolt off with a dremel....those babies were on there! Reassembly of those were easy peasy. The rest of the bushings, not so much. Here I learned the physics and power of a threaded rod with bolts and washers at both ends. Wanna know the secret to getting these bushings in? Blue Dawn Liquid. That's the ticket! Works like charm! Make sure you know which end goes which way!
Blunt got a lot of my business with these subframes. Steve was instrumental in helping me choose the right parts I needed and even with helping me through installation when I got stuck. I can't say enough for Steve. He loves these cars and it shows. I ended up with ST sway bars, H&R Springs and HD Bilsteins. I don't know why I painted my struts yellow, but I kinda like them!
I can't believe it's been a year and a half since my last blog entry. So much has happened I can barely remember it all!
Since I left off sending the car off to the paint shop, I'll start there.
Had it towed 30 some odd miles and gave the guy some cash to get started, along with a signed estimate. Quite honestly I was nervous about how the whole thing would go, what with rust removal, new fenders, new front air dam, new floor pans, paint color change etc etc. There have been so many horror stories about guys leaving their cars at body shops (especially in the Porsche world) only to either get it back to find horrendous workmanship or to be held hostage by the shop until they paid exorbitant extra charges to get their car back. None of that happened to me.
I vowed to stop by unannounced and often, making sure they were working on the car and doing the stuff I had asked them to do. This shop, like many, make their money on insurance claims, so therefore mine was a side job. I also brought more cash with me each time, to show appreciation and to keep them interested. Yes, I had them initial the invoice each time.
Sure I stopped by more than once to find no progress, but other times I found them covered in dust or paint while working on the car. There were also small decisions to be made, andI found it valuable to see the progress as it happened.
In the end I had to push them to get it done. He was there almost 6 months over the winter and it was time. Cue the tow truck. Here we go!
So I have made at least some progress with getting the body ready. I completed the modification of a tiptisserie that Roundeie inherited to me. Now it can be broken down, and even shipped to the next person who might need it when I am done.
Using my scissor lift, I was able to lift the body into the air, remove the entire rear sub-frame, and the body shell has been mounted to the tiptisserie. The teardown continues.
I've been working to get the interior all completed. I installed a new carpet from Etsy. I have to say it's a lot nicer than other kits I've installed in my other 02. The new headliner from WN was not without its challenges but the end result is straight with no wrinkles. The rear C-pillar flags were about 6 inches off from where they should have been so I had to detach carefully and reglue them. I remade the rear shelf and covered with German vinyl and installed the original rear seat with has no tears or splits. The door cards and rear panels were in fantastic shape. Fortunately previous owners decided not to cut speaker holes! I installed my leather covered dash and it looks and smells amazing. I had the glass put in by a professional. I'm too nervous to massage it in on my own.
Well, after a 6 hour round trip we got "Walter" home. My buddy, Chris Roberts, came up with the name (named after Walter from Breaking Bad). There is a story to this car hence the name.
Anyway, we got her home, selling off the spare parts I do not need. Over the weekend we gutted the interior, dropped the subframes etc. Motor was already pulled so saved us some time. I am looking for an M42 with 5 speed for the build. My nephew has a spare Motec so he will be doing the wiring, setup and tuning on it. He tunes some of the fastest supercars in the world so honored he would do this for me. He normally runs Syvec systems on those cars but, obviously, my M42 does not need that level.
Also sources some rear quarters, rear tail, and spare area sheet metal. Still looking for rockers and both front fenders. By end of this week all old, rusted sheet metal will be removed and will be prepping for new panels. Luckily it has zero structural rust, it was just on exterior panels.
Ordered all components to rebuild front and rear suspension from Blunt, as well as ST sways (I have ST springs already), BBK setup etc.
Made some good progress welding in the passenger floor pan yesterday while I had some free time. Ran into a little trouble with some spots after removing rust melting really fast but was able to get almost the whole thing welded in. Now I have to cut out more near the tranny tunnel that was too thin. So I will have to fabricate a small piece to finish the job and then a bunch of grinding! It’s been an eventful 2 weeks for me as I have made some good progress on the 02 and I just purchased an 85 318i daily driver Racecar! It’s a blast to drive but need some tinkering to pass Oregon DEQ. If anyone has a 318i e30 I would love some info on passing it through deq with or without an idle control valve and Cat. Cheers and happy thanksgiving.
IMG_20181017_144249301 by Gregg, on Flickr
IMG_20181104_104324789 by Gregg, on Flickr
IMG_20181104_104314246 by Gregg, on Flickr
IMG_20181104_104730216_HDR by Gregg, on Flickr
IMG_20181104_104719999 by Gregg, on Flickr
some progress, not much since it's winter but it's better than no progress at all...
I made a custom separation in the car in-between the car itself and the trunk. That was a true pain in the ass considering the roll cage of my car...
The tailgate itself fits great with the new rear panel, which I'm satisfied with.
I purchased this construction from a guy I know which allows me to rotate the car a 360 degrees while hanging in the air (just need to lift it some more: see photo).
I'll also need to do some more small patches (some more welding), mostly on the bottom of the car.
Also got this body 'kit' for the 2002 with plastics, and thoughts?
I hope to bring her to the media blaster in about 2 weeks to finally make an ending to all the body work
One more cool photo:
If you have any advice or recommendation, let me know!
Vern has been delivered to VSR for a few winter projects. The main project is to determine why the right rear, passenger side, wheel bearings have failed 3 times in 18K miles. The other projects are some routine maintenance like oil change with a general health & body checkup so he's ready for Spring and the Mid America '02 Fest. This year the original restored dash will replace the current one piece.
HAHAHAH this project was the biggest aspect of building this car and it was fun because I didn't think I would actually attempt this because I hadn't given the idea too much thought. But one day at #neueklasseandkaffee I told a buddy of mine that I wanted to do this weird single side draft set up but the manifolds were back ordered and sure enough he pointed me in the right direction to my now good friend named Eric which just happened to have a lynx manifold sitting in his 02 storage unit!! so that same day he took me up and I ended up buying it off of him.Now this ended up being a slightly larger project than I had anticipated and ended up taking me three months to get to the point where I could just get in the car and go anywhere!!
I picked up the motor and got the suspension completed. Front and rear are completely rebuilt with all new bushings and components.
I also got the body work a bit more cleaned up and ready for paint. There are a few little spots that need some attention but it should be ready for primer. I think the roof has come a long way since the tree fell on it a while back. That was probably the most time consuming part of the body work so far.
I also got the motor picked up from Terry at Terry Tinney Performance Motors in Livermore, CA. http://terrytinney.com/services.html He put in new custom high compression pistons for a 10:1 Compression ratio. Rebored the block and assembled the lower end. Head has been rebuilt with a Schrick 292 cam. I've got the mega squirt parts semi sorted and have to work at getting that all together next.
Then I moved it all from CA to CO.
So I ran some errands this morning. I decided to put on the data logger and here is what I got. You can download the sniper EFI tool (windows only) at the following link. The timing should be accurate to within a degree or so. I am running a 123 so I can change the advance and vac curves. This is all I know, I need to learn from here.
So first thing is first. I mounted the other seat in the car. I'm about 75% happy with them currently because of the mounting situation. The Corn's seats themselves are fantastic, but I sit too close to the steering wheel still, and the generic Sparco brackets don't fit great in the cabin. It works for now, but I'm looking into revising this ASAP.
I feel like 90% of this thread has been seat updates, but I guess it is what it is. I'm looking into seat belt solutions right now, as the stock ones don't play so nice with these seats. You guys were right, and I've decided no roll bar is the way to go. But I'll likely still need to go with some kind of harness bar, if I can't make a normal seatbelt system work. So I'm trying to find a solution that is reversible for that. As always, I need to complain about the carpet color. I'm going to source some new black carpet. I test dyed a scrap piece of carpet I cut, and it did not work well at all. It comes out crusty, and nasty looking. Perhaps a dye solution where I submerged the carpet would be fine, but spray on does not work well at all. I think at this stage I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy a new carpet kit.
I also keep getting this reoccuring vacuum leak. This hose keeps popping off, no matter how I clamp it down. I had a similar issue on my E30 back in the day, but replacing the clamp solved the issue. Not so much here. Maybe I just need to tighten it down like a man
Last but not least, a bit of shameless self-promotion. Another reason the 2002 hasn't gotten as much attention as I would like, is I've been in the process of launching a new business. I wouldn't mention it if it wasn't relevant to my car. We're selling Christmas ornaments, key chains, shirts and so on. But it's all based on the cars we are passionate about. This is the only mention I'll make of it here, because my build thread isn't going to become an advert for my products, but we worked hard and I wanted to share the final results with you all.
It goes without saying the 2002 is my favorite of the bunch. We're starting with these 5 cars, and have plans to expand next year. If it does well, I'll have that much more in the budget for the Roundie . You can find this stuff and more at Speed Limitless.
And now back to our regularly scheduled programming. I'm waiting for Black Friday to order in all my bushings. Restoration Design is still making my new differential cross member, so I haven't been able to take the car to the body shop yet. And my fabricator is still finishing other projects and hasn't been able to make my new core support yet. So there has been a whole lot of waiting going on. I may attempt the brakes again this weekend, as I finally have all the parts on the shelf for those. I hope.
I am trying to build a plan to have this car running and driving for the Hot Rod Power Tour this year, or at least the Woodward Dream Cruise in August. From looking at my turn radius I need to shorten the front steering arms for the rack and pinion travel to work.
The question I have is, is it a horrible idea to drill the stock arm for a shorter arm? I plan to use heim joints with a through bolt and spacer.
This is from another FAQ thread, the one I based my e21 rack on. The more I have thought about this the more i do not like the idea of cutting and welding the steering arm. The through bolt i would use is similar to the 2002 in shaft size. That would leave me with roughly the same cross section of material on either side of the hole. In my mind this is less risky than the cut and weld.
The reason for the change is simply because the rack i have does not have enough travel to give me the same steering angle as stock. Before it's asked i have to go to a rack to gain clearance for the engine swap.
This sweet '76 found me needing a new home and someone to take care of it. I headed to CA with a buddy just as the monstrous fire started to destroy Paradise (I grew up just down the hill from there.) It started, ran, drove and the price was close enough so we loaded it on the trailer and headed back to CO.
It's a '76 with a rather complete e30m3 swapped into it, including AC, power steering, cruise control, subframes, suspension, brakes, everything. They even relocated the strut tops for the m3 struts to have the proper castor angle.
It still needs a lot of love, like finishing some bodywork, paint, a complete interior, things like that. I'm thinking about box fenders instead of the flares that are on there. Maybe paint it white with the 3 color stripes over the top like the Group A m3... Maybe just spray clear over the top of what's there now. Don't know, but i do need to go through it mechanically first...
So here area few pictures to get started...
So today I finally got my passenger floor pan tacked in place after a while of measuring and trimming the area I cut out. I prefer to cut small and slowly get larger for tight seams when butt welding. I had such a tight fit in most areas i couldn't even use my butt weld clamps which is always nice. After tacking the corners in place, a little light hammer work to make sure things were lining up properly followed by some more tacks and she is in! Now for the tedious process of slowly finishing the welds. As anyone who has done body work before knows, it is a slow process to ensure proper cooling to avoid warpage. Not the hardest job but definitely time consuming. Hopefully ill be finishing up next week! time for a beer, Cheers.
P.S. check out the back story on my blog as it was my first entry, didn't realize how this all worked until now, and has all the pictures and story of my build!
Last winter project.
Bought this evaporator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HGJCYDE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Expansion valve: https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2003-2004-Ford-Expedition-A-C-Expansion-Valve-Rear-47398ZB-Expansion-Valve-/292766864272?hash=item442a43d390
Fabricated the sheet metal. The vent was salvaged from a Behr unit. Fans was a largest SPAL pusher that could be fitted into the available space (5.2"). Added a PWM fan controller.