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Steve76063

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  1. After discussing this with some '02 experts, they asked about the plastic forks at the rear of the aluminum tracks...I remember that when I was removing things, at least 1 of these were not in position (the 2-rod section was not correctly in the tracks), and I think the other wasn't correct either. I had already refitted these correctly due to another issue I had of the board holding the interior light sagging down (which made it easier to reach back there and sort things out). At their suggestion, I re-attached the sunroof (but not the headliner) and gave it an actual try - it worked!!! The sunroof dropped down giving me about 5mm clearance from the roof as it retracted . Now, I just need to work out the proper adjustments front/rear and I'll re-attach the headliner and call it good (the rear adjuster was originally at it's highest position, I've currently got it set to its lowest and may leave it there).
  2. stone02, I had this suspicion too, but don't know what can be done at this point...the bodywork was subcontracted out by my restorer.
  3. My sunroof was rubbing on the roof (in fact, I had to press down on the top of it while opening it to get it to drop below the roof! This was after returning from a paint shop where the sunroof was removed of course). So...I've pulled it our and looked at everything (I can see light scratching on the top where it rubbed on the roof edge !!!). Other than the fact that the rear height adjustments were at the very top, I can't see anything obviously wrong. When I placed the sunroof back in the roof (rear adjusters are at lowest point now), this is how the sunroof 'fits'... My question is - is this normal where the center section is very close to the roof, but the edges are markedly lower?
  4. Thanks everyone... it's good to have friends 'in the know'
  5. I had some issues with my sunroof, so I've been referencing the post at my2002tii, and noticed something different between his setup and mine. In his car, the 'spring clips' at the rear of the sunroof are 'above' the metal bar, but in mine, they were hooked below the bar. This is what his looked like: When I took mine apart, I didn't get any photos but the spring clip was hooked 'under' the metal bar...Which is correct? And of course, this all begs the questions - what is the purpose of the spring clip and metal bar? My sunroof pops up too soon in the rear, and I'm wondering if this has anything to do with it...
  6. I like that right-angle trick...I'll have to give it a try. The fan still works today on all 3 speeds 👍, and the SiliKroil small isn't too bad (or my nose has gone numb 🤣)
  7. Mintgrun... I rigged up a hose like you showed and first sprayed both ends of the motor with WD-40 and let it sit for a day. The blades were a bit easier to turn with a long screwdriver (they were very hard to turn at first). I then sprayed some Silicroil on both sides and let sit another day. The blades were easier, but still wouldn’t turn with 12v applied, so I turned on the power and then reached in and turned the blades and it started spinning 😍. I let it spin for a while, shut it off and sprayed some more lubricant. If it’ll start on it’s own tomorrow, I’ll call it a success👍. Only issue is that it’ll probably smell like oil for a while but definitely better than pulling the heater box!
  8. Thanks Mintgrun & Simeon...I'll give that a shot and keep my fingers crossed-I don't look forward to trying to remove the box with the AC unit in the way.
  9. I think I know the answer, but I’ll ask anyway... is there any way to lubricate the heater fan motor without pulling the heater box? After my outside refurbishment (not really a restoration) I noticed the heater fan didn’t work. After running a new ground wire (and checking that I did have 12 volts) I tried again and melted the plastic fuse! i used a long screwdriver and the fan blades are very stiff, so I’m sure any 47 year old lube has dried up. I’m just checking to see if it’s possible it lubricate it without pulling the box (I did that 40 years ago and remember that it wasn’t easy) but suspect that that’ll be my only recourse.
  10. Well, I had my 72 (it is 257xxxx) restored and they either put in a Euro switch, or connected the correct wires, because I sure don’t remember them acting like that when I parked it in ‘88. now I know 👍
  11. I installed the EL13 flasher, and 4-ways worked great, flashing inside and out. But, I had an issue with the inside indicator light glowing, and many times flashing on its own (without the turn signals on). The flashing was only on the indicator, not the outside lights. I'm an electronics tinkerer, so I checked out the system and discovered that there's 12 volts on the P terminal (the one that goes to the indicator lamp) when nothing's plugged into it. With the indicator plugged in, it dropped to about 3 volts and the lamp glowed and sometimes the flasher would flash! By trial and error, I added a 10 Watt resistor (I wanted to make sure I didn't burn out the resistor) with 22 Ohms in series with the indicator lamp. The lamp still glows, but is dimmer, and I haven't noticed it blinking on its own yet. I also tried a 47 Ohm resistor, and the lamp didn't glow at all, but when it flashed, it was dimmer than before. If I still have the phantom flash, I'll change to either the 47 Ohm, or something in the middle like a 33 Ohm. Here's what my connection now looks like:
  12. Any suggestion on identifying a Euro spec turn-signal switch from a US version? (short of the side parking lights coming on when the key is off and the stalk is on left or right)
  13. OK, something very strange going on with my turn signals! My original flasher was fast-flashing, and wouldn't handle LED bulbs even with load-resistors connected, so I followed the steps in the FAQ of using a 3-pin electronic flasher. Now, I have 2 issues: 1. With the ignition off, the turn-signal stalk will turn on the parking lights on the respective side of the car! I've found out that this is often the case on Euro spec cars, but I don't remember mine EVER doing this before! 2. When driving, the indicator lamp is almost always flashing! It flashes a bit slower than if the signals were actually on, and occasionally, it'll stop for 10-20 seconds. I've got the steering column apart, so I have full access to the switch-the wires are all soldered on, the switch doesn't have any spade connectors if this is any hint for anyone. As background, I just got the car back from a 6-month 'rejuvenation' (not a full restoration), so I'm going to go through the receipts to see if they replaced the turn-signal switch. When I drove it home, the signals worked as expected (except they flashed too fast).
  14. Thanks, I'll search the FAQ. I think the Inka version would look really nice in Precious, any suggestions on where to look for Orange webbing and how much I'd need to get? Also, what are the specs you need (width, material type, etc). If it's too outrageous (or I have to buy 100 yds), I'll fall back on the black version. ps. I put raffle tickets in for the black ones too, but missed those too My bad luck was JP & Jason's good luck Also, I've been checking the other posts and see where others have had the rear-seat Klippans redone in matching webbing...this looks VERY nice How much webbing would be needed for full front and rear belt replacements (with your retractors on the fronts)?
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