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Steve76063

Solex
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  1. I like your mounting location...I might use that
  2. I plan to start with a 100 Amp fuse, and I also have 125 and 150...the fuse holder is good up to 400 Amp, so I'll work myself up to what seems to work in all my normal situations...BTW, I don't race on a track, we were just doing a parade lap after a classic car show.
  3. After some excitement last weekend during a 'parade lap' at COTA (+ cable from battery in trunk shorted on top of transmission!!! Burned through the ground cable <smaller gauge wire>), I plan to add a fuse (100-150 Amp) at the battery, and a battery cut-off switch too. I'm wondering if there's a preferred 'order' to these pieces? I'm thinking that the cut-off switch should be before the fuse, allowing me to kill power to the fuse block in the event that I need to replace the fuse, but if I reverse that order (fuse between battery and cut-off switch), then the switch is also protected if it shorts out. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I wanted to ask the community if there's a 'right' way to do this...
  4. After some excitement last weekend during a 'parade lap' at COTA (see pictures... + cable from battery in trunk shorted on top of transmission!!! Burned through the ground cable <smaller gauge wire>), I plan to add a fuse (100-150 Amp) at the battery, and a battery cut-off switch too. I'm wondering if there's a preferred 'order' to these pieces? I'm thinking that the cut-off switch should be before the fuse, allowing me to kill power to the fuse block in the event that I need to replace the fuse, but if I reverse that order (fuse between battery and cut-off switch), then the switch is also protected if it shorts out. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I wanted to ask the community if there's a 'right' way to do this...
  5. After some excitement last weekend during a 'parade lap' at COTA (see pictures... + cable from battery in trunk shorted on top of transmission!!! Burned through the ground cable <smaller gauge wire>), I plan to add a fuse (100-150 Amp) at the battery, and a battery cut-off switch too. I'm wondering if there's a preferred 'order' to these pieces? I'm thinking that the cut-off switch should be before the fuse, allowing me to kill power to the fuse block in the event that I need to replace the fuse, but if I reverse that order (fuse between battery and cut-off switch), then the switch is also protected if it shorts out. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I wanted to ask the community if there's a 'right' way to do this...
  6. Success😍 I removed the springs & hinges, and lapped the hinge & frame together with valve grinding compound. Put it all back together (hinges folded flat, spring ‘bump’ down, rotated 1/2 turn) and hinges were still a bit sticky. I applied some real grease had tried Silicone grease before, “red-sticky grease” this time. The hinges will snap open now😊. After installing a deflector panel, I noticed that the panel keeps the hinge aligned and in place, so perhaps I didn’t need to lap them together. anyway, I got all the parts installed, and it works perfectly 👍. I can cruise 75 with the sunroof fully open with open vent wings and I don’t have the buffeting I had before👍 FullSizeRender.mov IMG_0661.MOV
  7. Thanks Paul, I was wondering just how much torque I could put on the spring. The first one I put together with the hinges 'extended', and got less than 1 twist on the hinge. In my excitement and haste, I JBWelded the spring in place, only to find out that the hinges stick on this one too. The one shown in the pictures/video have a toothpick jammed in to hold the spring temporarily. This one I assembled with the hinges folded, and got about 1/2 twist on the spring. My plan is to get some valve lapping compound, and with the springs removed, work the hinges with it until I feel that they're loose enough to try again, And, thanks to you, I know that I can put more 'twist' on the springs. Do you recall how 'loose' a fit the hinge sections were in the frame? Right now, mine are a pretty tight fit.
  8. Paul, I'm having issues with my kit First, the hinge pieces were too wide for the slots in the sunroof frame! I sanded/filed/dremeled the frame until it was just wide enough for the hinges to fit in. But then, the hinges don't rotate freely/smoothly in the frame. I put some silicone grease on it which seemed to help, but when I attached the spring (and rotate it), the hinges won't fully fold out, they only go about 1/3 of the way...I can open them by hand, but it takes more effort than I think it should. Also, it appears that the hinge is rotating out of the frame until it gets almost all the way open, and then it 'snaps' down into place. I've attached photos of my installation, and a video of the opening issues I'm having. Quick question, when you attach the springs to the hinges, do you have the hinges folded flat against the frame, or are they sticking up as they would be when the deflector is open? I attached them with the hinges folded, and after rotating the spring, there doesn't seem to be a lot of force trying to open the hinges (although this might still be the issue I'm having with the hinges not operating smoothly). Any suggestions from you or from anyone else whose successfully installed one of these would be greatly appreciated Golde.Crop.2.mp4.mp4
  9. After discussing this with some '02 experts, they asked about the plastic forks at the rear of the aluminum tracks...I remember that when I was removing things, at least 1 of these were not in position (the 2-rod section was not correctly in the tracks), and I think the other wasn't correct either. I had already refitted these correctly due to another issue I had of the board holding the interior light sagging down (which made it easier to reach back there and sort things out). At their suggestion, I re-attached the sunroof (but not the headliner) and gave it an actual try - it worked!!! The sunroof dropped down giving me about 5mm clearance from the roof as it retracted . Now, I just need to work out the proper adjustments front/rear and I'll re-attach the headliner and call it good (the rear adjuster was originally at it's highest position, I've currently got it set to its lowest and may leave it there).
  10. stone02, I had this suspicion too, but don't know what can be done at this point...the bodywork was subcontracted out by my restorer.
  11. My sunroof was rubbing on the roof (in fact, I had to press down on the top of it while opening it to get it to drop below the roof! This was after returning from a paint shop where the sunroof was removed of course). So...I've pulled it our and looked at everything (I can see light scratching on the top where it rubbed on the roof edge !!!). Other than the fact that the rear height adjustments were at the very top, I can't see anything obviously wrong. When I placed the sunroof back in the roof (rear adjusters are at lowest point now), this is how the sunroof 'fits'... My question is - is this normal where the center section is very close to the roof, but the edges are markedly lower?
  12. Thanks everyone... it's good to have friends 'in the know'
  13. I had some issues with my sunroof, so I've been referencing the post at my2002tii, and noticed something different between his setup and mine. In his car, the 'spring clips' at the rear of the sunroof are 'above' the metal bar, but in mine, they were hooked below the bar. This is what his looked like: When I took mine apart, I didn't get any photos but the spring clip was hooked 'under' the metal bar...Which is correct? And of course, this all begs the questions - what is the purpose of the spring clip and metal bar? My sunroof pops up too soon in the rear, and I'm wondering if this has anything to do with it...
  14. I like that right-angle trick...I'll have to give it a try. The fan still works today on all 3 speeds 👍, and the SiliKroil small isn't too bad (or my nose has gone numb 🤣)
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