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About Dudeland

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  1. I love my trunk opener. Do yourself a favor and take the trunk latch out and clean it thoroughly as per the instructions. I used some good molly grease and it opens every time. I didn't do the aforementioned and it would stick, requiring multiple pushes of the button. The switch I used is below. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/19mm-Black-Stainless-Steel-Water-Proof-Starter-Switch-Boat-Horn-Momentary-Button-/153106783616?hash=item23a5e01d80
  2. My experience with the nylock is that they back out quickly. I tried some, and had to replace them with the all metal, and never had any problems after that.
  3. Having flares on my car, the part that i don't like is where it meets the front spoiler. Fit that first, then you will see where the flairs need to sit, as the notch in the leading edge of the flair should fit the contour of the spoiler snugly.
  4. Thanks I will lube up the new one before I put it in. The 5 speed conversion cable I think it is the one used for automatics. I am kinda interested to see what the deal is with my old one. I am trying to plow through all these little jobs. I just swapped out the steering box with a new one I got last year. I need to then align the pulley on my A/C compressor, and get the system up and running. After all that, then comes the EFI conversion... then turbo... then boom.... then built engine.... then blown transmission... then I think I will be done for a while.... wait no... I have to re-cover the sport seats... and put in a new window regulator on the drivers side.... oh yes I almost forgot... a new front and rear windscreen... no.... then get the gas tank re-done.... Then I will take a break. Somewhere in there I will re-do the pedal box.
  5. Thanks much I checked the cable and after removing it from the transmission side I couldn't turn it with my fingers, so I expect that it is binding or something bad. I am just going to order the 5 speed conversion one from Blunt.
  6. Sorry to revive this thread. But can you remove the cable from the casing? Like Bugs and Camaros, or is it crimped in both ends. My cable seems to be binding causing the needle to jump. I can reach around and feel the end of the cable bind and release. Just trying not to spend another $140 if I can get it working with a bit of lube.
  7. if you go sequential injection you will need a cam sensor i believe. But for two ports I am not sure. I know for sequential injection on four ports you will need a cam sensor for sure, as the computer will need to differentiate between the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke. I would try to do it without the IAC and see what it is like coming down to idle. The way it was described to me, having a Lynx manifold is like having two single barrel carbs on your engine, having each side of the DCOE service 2 cyl's. The pulses are not shared, so anything that requires vacuum or requires accurate measurement of vacuum is going to be really hard. Also I am not sure of what happens to the fuel in the intake portion where the valves are closed. I know in my case it causes it to fall out of suspension, causing control and measurement issues, as the displacement is to small to keep decent flow at lower RPM's. Unlike my setup you have real injectors that atomize the fuel, so fuel pooling will be less of an issue I would expect. I would take a look at the injector duty cycle on your current setup as well as find the best injector spray pattern at low volumes that i could find. Also examine where the injectors will be spraying. Unlike a carb setup, the injectors spray fuel at an angle, which may mean that the spray is pointed more towards one runner than the other in the intake manifold. This won't matter at high RPM's but at lower volumes may come into play. Regarding vacuum pulses, I could not get a really satisfactory answer from Jenvy as to the configuration of the intake. The standard DCOE manifold has ports to share pulses (I.E style of intake) . I believe that the Jenvy manifolds do not, at least I couldn't see any on the M10 manifolds. Why they don't I am not sure, considering my idle issues, I wasn't willing to roll the dice. The feedback from folks that have run them is that the IAC is not essential, but startup idle enrichment is done by the right foot on the gas in the morning. More pondering is required, but i hope that this helps. BTW... despite what I have said above, I love the Jenvy DCOE's. They are a really great looking package.
  8. It seemed to be running a little rich. But a great noise nonetheless.
  9. I would love to see it. Just got my ms3 gold box the other day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I love guys like that, I knew a few when I lived out East. Vancouver isn't that sort of town, at least when it comes to cars.
  11. Anybody we know?. See the video at 20:41
  12. In the while you are at it category, replace the brake flex hoses if you haven't already. I did urethane bushings for the trailing arms, but did a stock subframe mount with the I.E poly insert. It has a nice firm ride that I like, and at least in my case I don't find it too noisy.
  13. That is a crazy deal. In Vancouver that is a $3K bill all day long.
  14. No the leaking down part has nothing to do with the Marvel oil. It is just to preserve the internals when you try to roll it over. Perhaps a ring is stuck to the piston wall. A little bit of oil helps loosen it up so when you move it they have a better chance of not breaking. When it comes time to roll it over make sure the plugs are completely removed, or you can ruin damage the engine badly... Like crack it into bits due to hydro locking. Yes it will spit oil out the holes but that is fine. Once it is moving freely under power of the starter. Then you begin the compression test part if the program, which will first include the compression test, then depending on the results, a leak down test which tests for other problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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