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    Brevard, NC

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  1. Pat, Please keep me on your list for the next production run. Thanks. John
  2. I went to Tractor Supply (though Lowe's would work) looking for something rubber and about the right thickness. I settled on a rubber flex joint intended to splice sections of plastic pipe. The large hose clamps are a nice extra. I then cut the rubber into strips to wrap around the fuel pump, and the thickness was a close match. Anything rubber with about the right thickness that can be cut into strips should work.
  3. I believe the whole service manual, including wiring diagrams is on this forum at the link below.
  4. My post of June 16, 2019 above describes how I got my 74 2002 to work with LED front turn / marker bulbs, and LED arrays in the rear, using an electronic flasher relay. My fix was essentially the same as 02HobieDave’s 2009 solution except I used a four-contact electronic flasher relay. After using the fix for a little more than a year, I can report that it still works fine most of the time. Bottom line is that I think the electronic flasher relay may be sensitive to system / battery voltage. When I am rolling down the road with RPM up, headlights and running lights on, defroster fan going, etc., the turn flashers work fine. But that is not when you usually signal a turn. When I slow down normally for a turn with all those loads on the system, the flasher dash indicator can get really slow, and I don’t know for sure if the outside lights are really flashing. Without those other loads, the flashers work fine. My low-tech cigarette-lighter volt meter says that at low RPM with all lights on, the battery voltage can get somewhat below 12V, but returns when RPMs go back up. It hasn’t irritated me enough yet that I want to tear out the under-dash panels and replace the relay to check it out. I think it is kind of like your old incandescent flashlights that kept getting dimmer until the battery was stone cold dead, but your modern LED flashlight will quit working while the batteries still have a fair amount of charge left. I think maybe my flasher relay may be telling me that I may need to replace my five-year-old car battery soon.
  5. I think you are exactly right, Hans! I thought about this right after making the suggestion. The cruder approach was just what I did at the time. A terminal puller should be the correct tool for both removal and re-installation. John
  6. When working on my wiper motor and linkage, I found that I could pop one of the ball joint linkage joints near to the motor pretty easily with a screwdriver. Then the wiper linkage between the two sides kind of folds up skinnier and can come out past the fan cage. The same joint then squeezes back together with a carpenter's clamp afterwards when things have been reinstalled . Hope this is the question you asked.
  7. That is a really tight bend punched in there. At first I thought it was a sleeve pressed in.
  8. Rick, Hope the attached picture is helpful. John
  9. I have never been more grateful to another human being than the day my Army buddy agreed to take ownership of my 1972 TR-6 so I could purchase a used 1972 2002tii 2761282. His Motor Sergeant had promised that he would perform all maintenance on the Triumph (no small feat for that car) since he was embarrassed to have his Lieutenant driving around in a Fiat 850 sedan. It was a good transaction for us both. The Triumph proved to be a chick magnet for him, and the BMW took me places I would have never seen.
  10. If you download your file to your computer or laptop or tablet, and open it with the "real" free Adobe Reader app, the legend is in the Adobe bookmarks / contents window panel. Your (original BMW) wiring diagram file opens that way on my android tablet, and should work for you too. John
  11. Paul's picture is beautiful, and much nicer than my picture of my bracket, which had been weld-repaired at some point in its life. When I was wrestling with a rebuilt starter, I was having fitup problems and traced my bracket. A scan of that tracing is attached. I am also attaching a couple other pictures that I had scrounged from here on FAQ at that time.
  12. As SpaghetTii points out, there are two different brackets for supporting the cantilevered end of the starter. The 2002 and 2002A use Part #24 (12 41 1 257 807) to support the starter end off the block. The 2002tii uses Part #4 (12 41 1 254 942) which also stabilizes the tii throttle body from moving around too much. See the parts catalog page from 2002tii.org below. Thanks to Randy Anderson to pointing out the difference to me at the Vintage 2014, and saving me throttle body problems down the road. As noted, there is apparently a substitute bracket for 2002 and 2002A that is available. For a tii, you’d probably need a good used (or repaired) one.
  13. Congratulations on your fuel pump upgrade, Andy74tii! I'd been working a schedule similar to yours, and also completed replacement with the E24/E24 pump this week. It is quiet and nice, and the engine seems happy. I'll post some information here in a different thread. Following your advice, I kept the original wiring harness and just added a pigtail. I appreciate everyone's discussion of screens and filters - it was a big help. I elected to depend on the in-tank screen and the canister filter by the radiator for now. For what it's worth, when I look into the intake nozzle of the E24/E28 Bosch 0580-464-048 pump, there seems to be a built-in pump-protection screen already in the line, similar to the removable screen in the original pump. Picture is attached. Thanks again for everyone's advice.
  14. I'm in the middle of the same fuel pump replacement that Andy describes. (I had convinced myself that I couldn't start until my QuickJacks arrived.) I'm using the E24/E28 pump 16141179232, Bosch 0580-464-048 shown in Keith Kreeger's exceptional article, and my pump/canister assembly looks like Andy's above. I plan on replacing the original pump wiring harness back to its connection point in the trunk by the tank, making it easier to include an inertia switch in the wiring to turn off fuel supply in case of accident. The original pump and harness will be archived for the next owner. Thank you for the discussion about screens and filters!
  15. Off topic, but that is also a beautiful R75/6! Original spoke wheels, Krauser cases, 6-gallon tank and Euro bars. Also looks like an R90S front fender and 1976 turn signals. Thanks for preserving that history, too! Mine is 4946226. Congratulations on your tii!
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