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Ireland Engineering

Alpina
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  1. Socal. $200. Have not tested the sunroof itself as most everything is there minus the crank.
  2. Coupe King had some NOS brand new ones a little while ago might try them. I think they were $60
  3. We have one that we used to run on our stand for a bit. $100 plus ship
  4. I have NOS #51 13 1 808 473 BNIB
  5. Rebuilt and ready to roll $2200.00
  6. Do you have any better pictures of how the tension strut mounts to the control arm?
  7. Actually almost exactly like that. Are you running this setup on your car? How has it handled?
  8. Not really, at least not in any more danger than the original configuration would be. Plus on a race car the suspension does not really travel a whole lot.
  9. I guess the real question we want to ask is if the geometry relationship between the OEM control arm and OEM tension strut is that way for a reason? Would we be compromising or weakening anything by, in a way, bringing them a little closer together? PS. This race set-up we are developing we are trying to use a re-buildable ball joint, and you will have various lengths to chose from that will change and correct bump steer (no need for spacers). PPS. We're going all heim joint suspension pretty much because as most racer's know the OEM '02 suspension has a lot of bind and restriction in it especially due to the fact that the car is extremely lowered and cambered.
  10. Thanks for the input! Yes, I agree. The original arm has 2 slight bends in an "s" pattern and mount rearward of the subframe. If you had an arm that mounted in the middle of the 2 "shears" of the subframe towards the rear of it (using a spacer to take up slack), you could use a perfectly straight-across control arm and end up virtually in the same ball joint position as stock (no caster adjustment). But as you stated, with the adjustable tension strut that could always be adjusted.
  11. We are working on developing some control arms and tension struts for race cars (also street cars don't worry, but this question only pertains to the race crowd). Now, is there a reason that the control arm should not be mounted in the middle of the sub-frame instead of behind it? Note that the heim joint and control arm will clear and move freely and that if the control arm was straight across instead of an "S" shape it would bring the cost down a bit. We understand that the triangular shape of the geometry would get slightly narrower, we are just unsure of the pros/cons of this. Pictures for reference.
  12. We have a set of Alpina-like "pig cheek" fiberglass flares here for sale. Unknown origin. They appear to be new, just dirty and dinged up from getting kicked around for years. Probably looking to get $300 plus ship for them.


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