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      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

AustrianVespaGuy

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About AustrianVespaGuy

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  1. Oh, and forgot, here's the link to both the yellow- and blue-top injectors, but you probably already knew this: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-yellow-top-19lb-fuel-injector https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/24lb-bosch-fuel-injector-0280150947-blue-top
  2. From the pics I would say the likely culprit areas to check would be: - Oil filler cap - Valve cover, particularly over where the upper timing cover meets the head - Upper timing cover to head - Timing chain tensioner plug Start with looking for loose bolts and then move on to replacing gaskets. Good luck!
  3. Several suggestions for you, but the short answer is yes Bosh blue-tops sound just about right. 1.)Do read through my EFI write-up in the Technical Articles: 2.) Are you or are you not running a turbo? If you're staying naturally aspirated, then 150HP seems a tad optimistic for that setup. 24# blue-tops are good up to ~165HP, but if you think you'll be closer to 130HP (my guess from you build specs), then start with the yellow-top 19# injectors instead (easier to get a better idle if your injectors are less oversized, but JimK is right, you also don't want to exceed 85% duty cycle). 3.) Again assuming you're staying NA, the 318i throttle body is a bit small. With it's 45mm diameter, it'll only flow up to about 116HP (link below for these calculators in the Megamanual): http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#size
  4. Very nice! I've always been a fan of highlighting the cast-in lettering features! And I'll admit, you've seem to gotten the knack of it better than I!
  5. While I'm not *that* familiar with the E24 seats, I'm assuming they can't hang significantly lower than the stock 2002 seat. But I think a good way to gauge it would be to look at the area around the driveshaft hump. My hawker odyssey PC680s sit just lower than this hump, so if the bottom of the e24 seat is pretty level, then you're probably good to go. If it helps any more, here's a pic of my batteries installed. Please do be safe and place them in a tray or on a non-conductive mat and make sure to well-insulate the positive terminals:
  6. Yes, I needed the extra spring to help keep the pedal with a nice snappy return feel. Are you sure that the lever arm down at the pedal box is clamped tightly on the pedal shaft and not slipping? Next make sure your crank arm lengths are correct so that the amount of up/down travel of the pedal rod translates to the correct amount of pull on the throttle cable; you might just need a longer arm on the cable side.
  7. Excellent summing-upping by Toby for Kugelfisher vs. carbs. This last statement to me screams EFI, but there I'm biased But really, most any of those options can be tuned to be both reliable and powerful. I guess I'd list dual DCOEs as the most-temperamental option, but hey, they're fun and sound great! I guess my advice amidst the rambling here is there isn't really a 'best' option; go with whatever induction setup you WANT to run, and we'll help you make a great running car with it! -Carl
  8. If you're running a 4.5psi fuel pump without any regulator or fuel return back to the tank, then yes I suspect this is too much for the carb and you have extra fuel seeping past the needle seats and dribbling into the intake, leading to a rich condition. This would also explain why removing the vacuum cap helps: it adds additional air without drawing additional fuel, thereby leaning things out. If you do have some sort of fuel overflow return system, I'd suggest making sure it's working properly and then move on to the idle jets. Also agree with Steven to not be afraid to play around with mixture and timing to try to improve things by ear, but from your description it definitely sounds more like a mixture problem than a timing issue. -Carl
  9. Hey Scenic, yeah sorry I'd attached a picture of that but it's one of the things that got cut off when I ran out of digital room, so I just went back and edited a few things down a bit and so now you should see what I did for throttle linkage in the very last picture at the bottom of the article. Hope this helps! -Carl
  10. On their site it claims it does, and really as long as it outputs a 0-5V analog AFR signal Megasquirt can work with that. What I'm interested to know is if this G1 gauge will also work with other wideband controllers, such as the Innovate LC-1 that I already have installed. I just want to so bad to have AFR indicated in the dumb seat belt display! Might be worth $30 just to try it and hope for the best!
  11. I run an Innovate LC-1. Chose it mostly because it integrates directly into my Megasquirt with no extra programming or messing, but would still recommend it as a good wideband even outside of that. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php However I LOVE the integration of the APSX gauge into the seat belt window!
  12. John, I think you (basically) nailed it! I'd actually swapped the #3 and #1 injectors and checked seating to see if the problem moved to #1 in a few hundred miles, but your vacuum leak idea for me thinking and you know what? I replaced a leaking brake booster just a few months ago and that's fed from ONLY the #3 runner on the manifold! So I bet dollars to donuts that was making just #3 run lean and caused the problem! Thanks, feel much better now, hopefully at next plug check all 4 will look good!
  13. Yeah, if you not familiar with EDIS it does seem like a weird concept. Let's say you want to fire cylinder #3 at 15 degrees BTDC. Based on crank position, it knows when both cylinders #2 and #3 are at 15 deg btdc, but we're not sure which one is on the compression stroke and which one is on the exhaust stroke, so both plugs fire. One ignites whichever was on compression, and the other spark fires into the spent exhaust of the other cylinder and is therefore 'wasted', hence the name 'wasted spark.' In any case, the ignition circuit is: from the coil, to one of the plugs, across that plug gap, into the cylinder head, from the cylinder head to the other plug, across its gap, and then back to the coil, thus completing the full circuit loop. Here's a link to more detailed info if you're really interested: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasted_spark So, if there's an issue anywhere in that circuit, then BOTH plugs don't fire. So if the #2 wire is bad, both #2 and #3 misfire, and same for the #3 wire. And in truth after playing with the timing light, I think it's the #1 and #4 that are having the issue, not #2 and #3, which is why I think the problems (missing and one dirty plug) are unrelated. I'm confident that I'll get to the bottom of the misfire issue, but I'm more concerned with understanding what's causing that #3 plug to slowly foul up on me with a freshly rebuilt engine and head.
  14. Well yes, but remember I have a wasted spark setup, so if it's an ignition issue, either cylinders 1+4 BOTH misfire together, or cylinders 2+3 BOTH misfire together, meaning I should really see two bad plugs if that were the case. But if something other than ignition circuit is causing the misfire (e.g. still spark but no boom), then yes that could cause just this one plug to get crapped up, but that's where I'm less sure of the potential cause. I currently think the two are unrelated since the misfire just started suddenly and recently, and I just happened to find the issue with this plug during my investigation but before the plug itself totally died.
  15. For the misfire yes (new ones on order to hopefully fix that), but not for fouling up the plug; there I'm not so sure.