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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  


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About AustrianVespaGuy

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Charleston, SC
  1. Well, let's start working through your list! I'll help tackle the first two points first: 1. Easiest way to solve vapor lock, and that does indeed sound like your problem, it's too install an electric 'booster' fuel pump back near the tank. You can even (temporarily or permenantly) power it using the rear defrost wiring, such that you can switch it on and of with the defrost switch. However you wire it, when you switch it on it will push fresh cool gas up to the mechanical fuel pump in the engine bay and keep it pumping properly. 2. How hot is 'scary?' First thing I would recommend is flushing the radiator, replacing the thermostat, and refilling with fresh coolant and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. If that doesn't work, then we'll look at replacing the radiator and/our changing to am electric cooling fan. For gearboxes just top up the oil for now and we'll come back to them later. For the suspension I'd suggest checking the stabilizer bar connections first, that's my guess as the most likely culprit. For the noise I think you're on the right track, 90% likelihood is the exhaust hitting something. Check over the rear subframe and near the floor near where the exhaust support comes off of the transmission. Kero us posted on progress! -Carl
  2. I'm sure others of your out there are in a similar boat as me, which is with several upgrades and additions installed on the '02, in addition to upgrading the alternator, we also need additional relays, fuses, and sundry wiring to get power to everything. 'Everything' in my case is a pretty long list, including Megasquirt ECU, injectors, EDIS module, fuel pump, electric cooling fan, and driving lights. I also like to try to keep my engine bay wiring as clean as possible, which has led me on the quest for the best way to add in these necessary parts in the cleanest and most efficient way possible. I'm now on my third iteration, but think I've finally nailed it! It's not all done yet, but I've got it all planned and will post progress as I go along. The secret weapon that I found was this perfect 6x relay and 6x fuse box on Amazon for only $16, including all of the connectors! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KJNPHJ Granted it's 5x 'normal' Bosch style relays plus one goofy Toyota style relay for I-don't-know-why, but for the price, I'm not really complaining. So, on to the wiring plan. Until now I resisted cutting off the original relay bracket, but to gain enough room and for a cleaner looking final installation, it's now time to do so. I don't think I'll ever miss it, I just don't like cutting original metal, so this is a rare exception for me. In a similar vein, I'm also going to retain as much of the original wiring where possible and only change what I feel is necessary (like adding a relay for the high beams) and this also helps for future troubleshooting, since the stock wiring diagram will still be 95% applicable, and I only need to keep track of the 5% changes I make. So, I'm posting my wiring diagram to share for any that are interested in also undertaking a similar endeavor. I actually need 7 relays in total, so the only one not included here is the one for the cooling fan. As you can see I do have the fuse for it here, and this just goes to terminal 30 of the fan relay located up in the nose of the car. The power for the driving lights is also supplied from the same 'hot only in run' relay, but they will be controlled by a duty cycle modulator to function as daytime running lights at ~50% power and then switch to full power when the high beams come on. I'll post a separate topic just on this when I get it fully drawn up. Please feel free to ask any questions if you're interested this or need other wiring advice and I'll be happy to help! New relay wiring.pdf -Carl
  3. Where does the smart money go?

    I don't understand, the white car is almost the exact same setup and condition as mine, short of edging me out out on the fenders and leather. So I'll grant it a few grand there, but my car should NOT be worth mid-$20k. . . what am I missing?
  4. Megasquirt EFI (and EDIS) for the BMW 2002 - Part 1

    So I just found what I think is a better (and cheaper) combination relay + fuse box. Might even upgrade to this myself when rewiring to add my driving lights! Anyway, would for new projects I would definitely suggest this over the separate fuse and relay boxes I originally used in the article: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KJNPHJ
  5. L Warning Light

    Shouldn't have a problem getting juice out of a new alternator even at 800, I think something else is probably up. Assuming the belt is tight, the next thing I would check is the ground wire to the alternator housing. Are you sure it was new and not rebuilt? I could also see this being an issue with the brushes. If you want to double check things, at idle use your VOM to check the voltage at pin 8 (blue wire) at the 9-pin diagnostic connector to ground, and then again at 1500-2000 RPM. That's how much voltage your alternator is putting out. You'd like to see ~12.5 at idle and up to 13.5-14.0 at the higher RPMs. Hope this helps! -Carl
  6. Bad valve stem seal?

    Thanks Toby, next time I have the intake off I'll examine the backside of the valve as you suggest. Right now I'm leaning away from rings due to the compression numbers being nice and even and I figure it's easier to mess up the installation of a new valve guide than new rings, but I guess I don't know that for sure. Thanks for the tips! -Carl
  7. AFR: Pictures of Bung Placement Please

    A few other important notes, you want the sensor somewhere in the TOP half of the pipe (aka between 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock), so that condensation does not collect in and subsequently kill the sensor. Also, I've found that it's easy for 2002s to kill wideband O2 sensors with too much heat, so I would advise to go a little further downstream and/or install and additional heatsink if you run into this issue. After killing two sensors after only 18 months each, here's the part I use. Pricey, but so are new Bosch O2 sensors. . . https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3729-Heat-Sink-Extender/dp/B000CO9MFI Oh, and fyi, here's mine at the ass-end of my Supersprint headers, prior to adding the heatsink:
  8. Does anybody know if there is a place to order a new precut leather covering for the older steering wheels (specifically the 320is sport 3-spoker)? I did the whole job myself on the E36 M-sport wheel and it turned out wonderfully, but I'd be more than happy to save 70% of the effort by buying pre-cut and pre-stitched leather if available. Just curious, thanks!
  9. Bad valve stem seal?

    Well, been another couple hundred miles and plug #3 is starting to show signs of oil deposits again unfortunately. Is there any way to visually check the valve stem/seal at all without removing the valve springs? I'm thinking about popping the valve cover off to take a look, but I'm not sure quite what to look for. Or is this the sort of thing that just plain requires removing the head? Thanks guys! Edit: to be clear, no misfiring problems anymore, just the #3 plug fouling I'm after now.
  10. Electric fan indicator

    My original idea was to just mount the led in the dash somewhere, but that idea got killed quickly as soon as I realized how darn bright modern LEDs are; it was just too blinding! Hence the decision to go and bury it and use the backlighting instead! -Carl
  11. Electric fan indicator

    So, I'm using the spare F-idle output on my megasquirt to drive the relay for my electric cooling fan, which I love except for one thing: I've found it a bit tricky to tune the megasquirt parameters to turn the fan on and off at the right temperatures (since it's driven by the sensor in the coolant divider neck), and unless I pull up MS to check, I keep worrying about driving down the highway with the fan running constantly. So today, I (over)engineered a solution! I took the cluster and gauges out, and mounted a blue LED that I had lying around inside the temperature gauge that comes on and backlights the gauge in blue when the fan comes on. I was even able to use the +12V from the gauge for the non-existent clock power so that I only had to run one extra wire. So now I'll always know whether it's on or off in a very unobtrusive way while I get just the right temperature settings dialed in! Overkill solution to not a very significant issue, I know, but hey, I still proud and very happy how it all turned out! -Carl
  12. Fuel injector size/flow rate

    Oh, and forgot, here's the link to both the yellow- and blue-top injectors, but you probably already knew this: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-yellow-top-19lb-fuel-injector https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/24lb-bosch-fuel-injector-0280150947-blue-top
  13. Slow oil leak-spark plug?

    From the pics I would say the likely culprit areas to check would be: - Oil filler cap - Valve cover, particularly over where the upper timing cover meets the head - Upper timing cover to head - Timing chain tensioner plug Start with looking for loose bolts and then move on to replacing gaskets. Good luck!
  14. Fuel injector size/flow rate

    Several suggestions for you, but the short answer is yes Bosh blue-tops sound just about right. 1.)Do read through my EFI write-up in the Technical Articles: 2.) Are you or are you not running a turbo? If you're staying naturally aspirated, then 150HP seems a tad optimistic for that setup. 24# blue-tops are good up to ~165HP, but if you think you'll be closer to 130HP (my guess from you build specs), then start with the yellow-top 19# injectors instead (easier to get a better idle if your injectors are less oversized, but JimK is right, you also don't want to exceed 85% duty cycle). 3.) Again assuming you're staying NA, the 318i throttle body is a bit small. With it's 45mm diameter, it'll only flow up to about 116HP (link below for these calculators in the Megamanual): http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#size
  15. I'm Officially Obsessed. Valve Cover Painting!

    Very nice! I've always been a fan of highlighting the cast-in lettering features! And I'll admit, you've seem to gotten the knack of it better than I!