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AustrianVespaGuy

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AustrianVespaGuy last won the day on July 3 2020

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    Dacula, GA

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  1. Make sure you have small enough chokes in there; for a 284 I think 34mm or even 32mm would be about right. Much bigger and you'll never be able to tune off-idle and cruising throttle settings. Wideband O2 sensor is another great suggestion. And while I can't personally endorse @halboyles linkage, I CAN attest that in general throttle linkage is one of the most frustrating parts of changing any induction setup, and products developed by long-time FAQ members tend to be excellent. . . and now I'm starting to think about switching to ITBs again. . .
  2. Er, I advise AGINST using a dremel for this job, likely to melt that plastic and leave blobs on the edges. Just use a good razor blade; cheaper, easier, and better for this task!
  3. Never bothered trying to add clips on my car, but certainly not going to try to stop another Panasporter! As for the trailing edges, I found what worked best was to use a plain razor blade to cut the trim off at the right angle (e.g. to clear the door trim). Then a chrome paint pen on the cut surface helps hide/blend it in.
  4. ^ This, and this is effectively what I meant by making sure you programmed timing matches your actual timing, because you need to make sure of that first, and then move on to tuning your curves. Great that you have a dial-back timing light, as that makes things much easier!
  5. Ok, few things to cover here: 1.) Use a timing light to confirm that the numbers you program in the 123 are what you ACTUALLY see happening at the crank. I.E. 12 degrees at idle is really 12 degrees BTDC at idle. 2.) I don't like how your curve goes to zero ~500 RPM. Keep the idle advance (e.g. 12 deg) flat from idle down. I.E. make points 1 and 2 also 12 degrees. 3.) MAP curve looks weird with that asymptotic jump at 30kpa. Also I expect you idle somewhere around 45ish kpa, so your running rough is likely because you're running 12+10 = 22deg of advance at idle, which is too much. You CAN have 10 deg at low MAP like that, but if you do you'll need to take some of the base advance out of the RPM curve to compensate. Total advance at idle for the M10 likes to be in the 12-16ish range.
  6. I very much respect this point of view, good for you. And while I also think somewhere in the 40s is a reasonable estimate with the current market, I'll still share my opinion to: JUST KEEP IT!
  7. Unless I missed it, have you checked your plug wires? Easier than most would care to admit to get them mixed up and running to the wrong cylinders! Best tool at this point is a timing light, as that will help you make sure you A.) have the correct #1 plug wire, and B.) will give you an idea of the what the timing advance is by looking at the TDC mark vs. the pointer while cranking.
  8. Hmm, that's interesting because all those green wires from the ignition switch should all be hot in run AND start. It's only the purple wires that are hot in acc and run positions but NOT in start. Regardless, running a wire from the starter solenoid will certainly work, and is probably the easiest fix, but I am a bit troubled by the fact that you're not seeing 12v with the key in the start position. I know you said the ignition switch was untouched, but that'd be the first place I'd suggest checking to see if the terminals are at least getting the proper voltages in the correct positions.
  9. Personally I'm a BIG fan of the E21 gasket/shield combo. Granted it subjectively isn't the nicest looking thing, it's cheap, readily available, works well, and doesn't add anything extra to the rusty-hardware tally!
  10. Firstly, big thanks to @ray_ for solving the mystery! Life's a real bitch without the right wiring diagram; anyone know what happened to all those great ones that *were* available on the 2002tii.org site? But to your question @esty, o you don't need any sort of ballast resistor with the blue coil, it has enough internal resistance that it can live with 14v from the battery all day long. So if you run/use a wire that comes from the hot side of the fuse panel (so really straight from the ignition switch) to power the coil, then no you don't need to worry about that relay any more, and can just leave it out entirely if you want. Maybe keep it if you ever think you'll switch back to the stock coil with ballast resistor, but I probably wouldn't!
  11. Ok, so we need to be a tad careful here because sometimes 70's Germans were really clever with their electrics and other times they were really dumb. If it's coming from the positive side of the starter solenoid, then it should go to the positive side of the coil. This is help make sure the coil sees FULL battery voltage (bypassing the original ballast/resistor wire) while cranking. But as your already know they also used black for the negative side of the coil, and from the points to the tach. So. . . black to positive and black to negative. . . yeah this was one of the dumber ones! Again not sure why there's TWO wires either, so double check before plugging in (should only see +12v when cranking, otherwise nothing). My money is on this one, for two reasons. Green/Red is a very 'unusual' color for 2002 wires, which makes me assume it was something added specially for American/California market cars. Secondly, although the green/red is different, everything else about it looks just like the (now long gone) speed relay on my '75's diagram, with the two brown and black terminals on one side, power in the middle, and output(s) on the other side. (This 75 one only drove one silly little valve, with two others driven by 'other' things, but your 72 could easily have had two, both driven by that one relay). I still advocate: Trace it, then Trash it!
  12. Ebay only seems to have near-mint ones for like $75, but I'm after something a little more affordable but don't care if it's actually got some signs of use! Prefer a later one from a squarie!
  13. Hmm, bit of an old post, but I'll bite anyway, this still available? Looking for a cheaper well-used copy like this, thanks!
  14. Short answer is yes, since you're using a blue coil that doesn't need ballast/resistor wire, solid green switched 12v straight from the ignition switch (UN-fused) is exactly what you WANT to power the coil. Real bummer when your whole car doesn't run because some bulb blew a fuse! I'm wondering if the two green connectors aren't for providing power for some more emissions junk; or *possibly* that it's supposed to be on the interior instead? Fuses, coil, and the diagnostic terminal (but that doesn't use a spade connector) are really the only engine bay places that I think solid green should be, though I also agree those terminals look very much original! You're SURE those aren't just the ends that go on the ignition switch?
  15. I'm leave this here for you cause it'll probably be helpful, even though it's for a 73 instead of 72! - At any rate, I can tell you the purple/black and brown/black are for SURE for the windshield washer pump; I think those colors never changed on any '02. - I'm also reasonably confident that first thing with the green/red is some emissions related junk that you don't want/need. - That's definitely the horn relay and a very nice looking voltage regulator. - A solid green wire is always, always, ALWAYS unfused +12V switched by the key. So either goes to supply a fuse(s), lights, or the ignition coil. Since it's got two terminals close together my guess would be it should go the the back of the fuse panel to supply two fuses with power - likely #4 and #12. 73 2002 color wiring diagram.pdf
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