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About AustrianVespaGuy

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  1. This is basically the exact same as my Megasquirt setup, though I opted for the 284 instead of 292 cam. I get about 130-135 at the crank and 120-125ish at the wheels, and am not significantly but decidedly faster than a friends good condition/well tuned tii, fwiw.
  2. So @Einspritz's pdf above is a really good diagram for most of the main electrical systems, but if you need to get more into the nitty-gritty stuff on later models (like figuring out emissions stuff, or the fasten seat belt pod light and buzzer and so on), then this is the most complete diagram I've found. This link is 1975 specific, per the OP, but 74s, 76s, and tii ones are also available here too: http://www.2002tii.org/diagrams/bmw2002-usa-1975.pdf
  3. Ah, right, I'd forgotten that these were TB injectors, sorry! I think Jimk's on the right track here, some more experimentation with idle fueling is probably the best next step. This is very odd, VE should not be anywhere near that high at idle. Considering your MAP at idle is around 33kPa, I would guess that your VE should be somewhere in the 30-45% range. 98% would mean that you're basically getting a completely full 500cc/cylinder intake charge of air/fuel, which with a NA motor at idle is absolutely not the case. Are we sure we're talking about the same Volumetric Efficiency % parameter here? Not that this would explain your problem, just that it stands out to me as odd.
  4. One thought along the lines of fuel pressure: MOST EFI fuel pressure regulators have a vacuum line going to them, so that the fuel pressure is always adjusted to compensate for manifold vacuum; is that the case on the Holley? It's not clear to me from their pictures that this is necessarily the case. What this means is: if the FPR is set at 60psi-gauge, then there is 60psi drop across the injectors when your at WOT and the pressure in the manifold is a full 1 atmosphere. But when you're idling at 33kpa (only about 1/3 atmosphere), if the FPR remains unchanged then the pressure drop across the injectors is now closer to 70psi (60psi + 2/3atm). Clearly the Sniper system has some means of compensating for this, but if we can figure out how they do it, it might help clear up that part of the mystery. Also, I see that you are indeed in closed-loop during idle; can you turn that off and test it out in open loop instead to see what happens (issue goes away or maybe engine just dies)? Third, what is your Basic Idle target set at?
  5. Can't remember if we already covered this, but what does the timing map in you 123 look like? Do you have more or less advance down at say 700 RPM compared to idle at 1000 RPM? You should have maybe 2 degrees more below idle to help keep the idle RPM stable. If you instead have less advance down there, you indeed will have stability problems as the EFI tries to add more fuel and air to speed things up while the timing is being retarded. . .
  6. Long, meticulous, and slow going. Aren't all wiring projects that way? ;P
  7. What I always say in these threads: it's fine as long as you get new housings with optics that are matched to the LED light sources in them, but please don't go popping those Chinese H4-style LED 'bulbs' in plain old H4-halogen reflector housings! AFAIK all of the 7"-round Jeep stuff like those Rigids is usually fine though.
  8. Saw my old thread crop up and realized I still owed you guys pictures, so here they are of my cheapy Amazon relay/fuse box all installed:
  9. Ok, here's what I find very suspicious, although I can't yet explain how/why it's causing your problem, just that I don't ever believe in coincidence: At the EXACT moment that the RPM starts to drop (several times in the 0033 file), it's when your indicated AFR plot CROSSES the target AFR plot (12.6 AFR to be specific). Now, causality is going to be trickier, but I feel this is a big clue. So here's some experiments that you might want to try: 1.) Is closed-loop feedback on or off during these times? Is Sniper 'trying' to keep idle stable? If so, I'd start with disabling that and seeing what things do 'on their own.' 2.) RAISE and LOWER the AFR target, say to 13.0 and then 12.0, and see what happens. Does idle still stay stable up to the 13.0 threshold before dropping, or drop sooner when if hits 12.0? If so, it's definitely in the electronics control and something is chasing its own tail. If however, idle still drops at 12.6 AFR regardless of the target threshold, then it's truly an issue of the mixture being too lean for some reason, and next step would be to run a little richer at idle. My guess is that when your AFR hits the target value, Sniper then 'does' something, or stops doing something, and whatever that is causes your idle to destabilize like that:
  10. FWIW, I find 14" wheels to be right in the 'Goldilocks' zone; Big enough to fill some of the vacant arch space and find decent tires for, but not so big as to have issues with rubbing, poor ride, heavy steering, etc. that can often plague 15-inchers. I always thought bottlecaps looked great on 2002s, but it's true they are pretty heavy. Basketweaves are too much of a pain to deal with cleaning and replacing caps, but I'm finally happy with the not-too-big, not-too-small, easy-to-deal-with 14" panasports I've finally settled on!
  11. Heading up from Atlanta tomorrow (wife still has to work today), but we'll see you guys there! @DavidLMM, it's good to name your cars, and Sylvie is a wonderful choice; can't wait to meet here!
  12. 320iS sport steering wheel freshly recovered in brand new leather! Super clean and includes horn button, but has a broken turn signal canceling tab and does not include the plastic shroud.
  13. Been holding on to this backup head for quite a while but think I just don't really need to keep it anymore. Rebuilt E21 2.0 head with a 284 reground camshaft ca 2008. I had slapped this on my stock engine for maybe 5000 miles from 2009-2011, but then ended up pulling out the engine for the full rebuild and Megasquirt conversion, at which point I rebuilt the original matching head and put it back on instead. No oil sparer bar included and it's also not drilled for a mechanical fuel pump. I think this is best suited for someone who's after a bolt-on-and-go head; probably not for you if you intend to do you own full head rebuild, as it's still fresh enough that I don't think it's worth tearing down again right now. Reminder: will work fine with flat-top pistons but higher compression raised pistons need to be properly matched with the correct head!
  14. ^ How so? A rainbow-shitting unicorn paintjob isn't THAT hard to replicate Have found my first unplanned upgrade though, been reading about Honda's VCM (variable cylinder MIS-management) and the various ways to go about disabling it! At least not quite as ridiculous as buying a GM with a manual transmission that by design doesn't let you shift into 2nd gear, am I right? Lol!
  15. And to bring this thread to full closure, here she is! Meet Midnight, our new family 2009 Odyssey! And seriously, thanks everyone for all the replies and opinions shared, I really do appreciate it!
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