AustrianVespaGuy

Solex
  • Content Count

    993
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2
  • Feedback

    100%

Community Reputation

241 Excellent

4 Followers

About AustrianVespaGuy

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Dacula, GA

Recent Profile Visitors

3,583 profile views
  1. AustrianVespaGuy

    The Vintage 2019

    Starting planning for the Vintage earlier than usual this year! Since we moved fro Charleston up to the Atlanta area this year, need to start getting to know my new GA buddies better! Also trying to rope in the DIYAutotune guys (I know at least 2 of them that have E30s) to join up to come too. Anyone interested in a caravan?
  2. AustrianVespaGuy

    Exhaust requirements for higher output engine?

    As was said before it sorta depends on car usage and where you want to make the power. If you want top-end horsepower might as well go for the long quad headers while you're working in that area. If however, this is more of a street/daily setup, I'd second @Schnellvintage's route with the IE shorty header and their SS downpipe as a not-terribly-expensive starting point. Then you can do the back half of the exhaust later as time/budget/desire permits. Tri-Ys are a very nice all-rounder setup that really support the engine's mid-range, but since they're awfully pricey compared to other headers, make SURE that's what you really want before going that route. Now I absolutely LOVE my SS Supersprint Tri-Y and never intend to give it up, but if I were doing another car all over again, I think that $ would probably have been better spent elsewhere in all honesty.
  3. AustrianVespaGuy

    Restoring turn signal and stop light lenses ?

    Perhaps slightly tangential to your original question, but you can put in the proper colored LED bulbs to replace the original incandescent bulbs for a fairly significant bump in output, responsiveness, AND color correction. Just don't use white LED bulbs in red or amber locations, as that will make the coloration much worse through the original lenses. Note that you will need to change to an LED electronic flasher for the turn signals to still work properly, but this is pretty well documented here on the forums and IMO a worthwhile upgrade. Edit: oh yeah, and they don't tend to melt the plastic lenses as much either, another bonus!
  4. AustrianVespaGuy

    My baby loves being rich.

    12.5 doesn't sound too rich for M10 idle; I think I usually run somewhere between 12.5 and 13.0 idling, and anything above 13 it starts to get rough. Remember ignition timing also has a large effect on idle too, aim for mid-teens, and try to verify with a timing light. (Your 123 still at 12 degrees at idle?) Lastly, it's easy to check the cam timing, just pop off the valve cover, line things up at Cyl#1 TDC, and make sure the little notch on the cam sprocket flange lines up: I really think though it's pretty tough to get the timing chain off by a whole link and drive the car around without realizing something's wrong. . . so I doubt this is your issue. But easy enough to check!
  5. AustrianVespaGuy

    Fog and driving light wiring options

    Read my article that @Simeon linked to in the fourth post (thanks Simeon!) and wire your lights and 500s up that way. Then you can add another relay (controlled by the fog light switch) to run the lower fogs. The advantages of my method include: - Daytime running lights - No high current from bulb loads going through the factory interior switches - Proper relay control for all lights - Proper DRL/low/high/driving beam usage automatically with just the original switches (lows go off when highs come on, etc.) - No cutting of factory wiring harness - Only need +12V battery power, ground and switched light signals (all readily available up in the front drivers side of the engine bay) If you need more relay real estate, put in one of these relay boxes: https://www.amazon.com/d/Starter-Relays/ONLINE-LED-STORE-12-Slot-Installation/B072KJNPHJ
  6. AustrianVespaGuy

    Too many cars?

    I'm of the opinion that everyone should have a beater car! My 2002 used to be a beater car, until I fixed it up and it started to get too nice, which is when I got the E30 as the replacement beater. It's just so liberating to have a car out in the driveway that I can leave the keys in and can just hop in and GO when needed. Noticing a trend of E39s, Subis, and Porsches in this thread. . .
  7. AustrianVespaGuy

    Bike rack advice

    Ooooh, @2002Scoob sorry missed it the first time through but I LOVE this pic in front of the Zentrum! Previous road trip over to Muenchen?
  8. +10, this is the ultimate embodiment of these cars. Most fun to work on, most fun to drive, rinse and repeat until the end of time!
  9. AustrianVespaGuy

    Too many cars?

    So I've finally found my personal sweet spot, and apparently my magic number is 3, and 4 is too much. I just recently acquired my final dream car: an E39 M5. But this has brought my personal vehicle count to four: the 2002, the E30, and 2 E39s, (not including my wife's Forester or the Vespa), and I can finally admit it's too many. Three in the garage and one in the driveway, with three BMWs covering 4-cyl, 6-cyl, and 8-cyl configurations is my optimum, so this means the 540i will need to find a new home shortly. Fortunately, I think my dad will be more than happy to take it off my hands for me. Means we'll probably never have room for a minivan, but I suspect before too long we'll replace the wifey's car with an X5, and that'll be just fine. What about the rest of you, where's you sweet spot? How many cars is too many for you? Is there even a limit. . . ?
  10. AustrianVespaGuy

    Bike rack advice

    On 2002s the gutter mounted racks are my favorite. I also prefer the ones where you can bolt down the front fork as I feel it holds the bike more stable and it doesn't stick up quite as high, plus most wheels fit quite well in that spacious trunk. If noise is an issue, a super cheap and easy solution is to take a long bungee cord and spiral wrap it around the front and/or rear cross bars. Ever see those antennae with the little wire spiral wrapped around the outside? That has nothing to do with radio reception!
  11. I remember that the factory black paint of our new '88 Jeep Cherokee was effectively GONE in about 3 years; ridiculously poor stuff with zero UV protection. My dad got it repainted in a red single stage urethane at a local one-day place. I think we got a bit lucky with a good painter, it was a really nice job, but more importantly it held up outside in the Albuquerque sun all day every day until I think 2014, when it had finally faded (but not peeled!) enough to warrant another 1-day repaint. Dad finally sold it about 2 years later so can't say much about the second paint job, but that first urethane repaint was absolutely spectacular. We even worked out the value once: $600 for 20 years works out to about 8 cents a day, which for paint is extremely hard to beat!!!
  12. @Scottwattz, in your original post you leave out an important piece of information which is how much TIME you have to work on this project. Remember the golden rule that TIME = MONEY so your $ estimate can be significantly reduced or increased based on that. You say you are going to do the work yourself other than painting, which I think is a great plan. My advice for a budget-minded 2002 project like that would in general be to repair FIRST and then replace later/if necessary. For example for wheels and tires, look for a set of tired bottlecaps and then refinish them yourself. Here's a good candidate set on ebay for $225! Then some decent tires and you've basically halved your original budget! https://www.ebay.com/itm/84-92-BMW-325e-14-Bottle-Cap-Wheels-Rims-4x100-OEM/153190037498?hash=item23aad677fa:rk:15:pf:0 As for the overall process, here's what I generally follow recommend for most cars that aren't in for a full ground up resto: 1.) Find and fix any/all rust 2.) If (1) includes floorpans, then yeah this is a great time to throw in some new carpet (obviously from @esty). 3.) Brakes and suspension. Shocks are pretty important and new ones aren't really cheap, so this does take some budget planning, but fortunately brake caliper rebuild kits and new pads/shoes are comparatively inexpensive. 4.) All fluids, including transmission (Redline MTL) and differential (Redline 75-90). 5.) Standard tuneup, meaning remove, clean, and rebuild the carb (rebuild kits are cheap too), plugs, wires, points, cap, rotor, fuel filter, etc. and finally SET THE TIMING. 7.) That's all the important stuff, at that point it's time to start driving it, and as you accumulate a few miles you can then start prioritizing the things that bother you the most and you want to address soonest. You might discover yourself hell-bent on wanting better headlights, or on the other hand you might find you like driving it enough you won't be that inclined to take it back off the road for worrying about paint or a turbo for quite awhile. . .
  13. AustrianVespaGuy

    e30 Airbox Installation - EFI Conversion

    Just to make sure, you're ONLY using the air filter box and are WITHOUT the ridiculously hokey E30 AFM and Motronic bits, right? Just making sure!
  14. AustrianVespaGuy

    Weber for Educational Purposes

    Some literature to help you too: https://www.amazon.com/Zenith-Stromberg-Haynes-Repair-Manuals/dp/156392157X http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/docs/Haynes/Haynes - Weber Carburetor Manual & SU.pdf
  15. AustrianVespaGuy

    320i radiator pic

    Best pic I seem to have on hand, but probably gives you the idea. Width is good, but side mounting points are on the aft side (not against the firewall) and the tank mounting tabs stick up a bit and thus need some bracket do-dads to mount it. Bottom goes in the cradle very nicely though. Oh and I think you need to use the 320 lower hose, as the outlet is straight not angled like the 2002 outlet.