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About AustrianVespaGuy

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Dacula, GA

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  1. AustrianVespaGuy

    Nothing like a fresh wash and wax!

    Not that subtle Tom, I think that actually looks like quite an improvement! And while it doesn't really bother me, you might notices that despite matching the correct paint codes for my respray, it for whatever reason came out a bit more yellow/less blue than your original mint. Can't really tell unless compared back to back against an original, but I'm still curious as to why. Probably will never know!
  2. I just love to bask in the shininess after a thorough cleaning up like this!
  3. AustrianVespaGuy

    1968 BMW 1600-2 - Where do I start?

    This may be of help to you for picking a color: BMW 2002 Colour Charts all models.pdf
  4. AustrianVespaGuy

    Kugelfischer guide

    Stumbled across this while searching around on the tii register the other day and thought it would probably be VERY helpful for all of you Kugelfischer owners out there if you don't already have it!
  5. Umm. . . sorry but personally I don't thing a ground up restoration is really any better than what you're accomplishing here! Keep up the good work, sheesh!
  6. AustrianVespaGuy

    Good DIY Projects on a 2002?

    Jeez, sky's the limit on this one. I rebuilt the head on my first 2002 in my college dorm room, using my roommate and a set of hex wrenches to compress the valves! But for an introductory course for kiddos, I supposed I'd start on the following ordered list: 1.) Brakes - rebuild calipers, new fiction surfaces, and bleeding, MC rebuild if you want. 2.) Ignition timing, as @RobC suggested - points/condenser/timing. 3.) Valve adjustment 4.) Carb rebuild/tuning 5.) Coolant system flush, maybe coupled with new pump and/or thermostat 6.) Electrical troubleshooting 101 for any electrical system that doesn't work (I'm sure there's something!) 7.) Rust repair 101, again I'm sure you can find at least a small spot to tackle! 8.) Then maybe on to belts and/or engine/transmission mounts/guibo 9.) Now it might be getting close to time to pull the motor out for a rebuild (or at least the head). 10.) Transmission rebuild 11.) Megasquirt fuel injection 12.) Motorswap 13.) Aww, crap, scopecreep!!!
  7. AustrianVespaGuy

    Looking for opinions...EFI talk

    One important bit to note with any cable, make sure the stop for the outer cable on the throttle-side is located somewhere on the engine itself. If the cable stop is on the chassis side instead, then any movement of the engine will pull on the inner cable some and you'll get small but annoying bits of unintended throttle adjustment!
  8. AustrianVespaGuy

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    Oh, and this thread seems a good fit, so I'll post this link here, probably my favorite resource for DCOE tuning info! Theory Operation and Tuning.html (Carbs are such cool gizmos!! :D)
  9. AustrianVespaGuy

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    Thought about this more for you, and here's what I've concluded: 1.) If it's cruising economy you're after, the idle jet is the most significant component. Remember, true 'idle' is actually tuned from the mixture screw as much as the jet itself. But part throttle and slow progression (what you use most at cruise) are BOTH directly controlled by the idle jet. So I think first step would be to try a smaller idle jet, re-adjust mixture for a good idle, and see where that gets you. 2.) 40 pump jets are already on the smaller end of the spectrum, and if you no-load revving of the engine is nice and crisp already, maybe it'd be better not to mess with this one. On the other hand, jets are pretty cheap when it comes to parts, so if you're ordering new idle jets anyway (per above), I don't think you could do much harm in trying out some smaller pump jets. You can always go back to the 40s later if you don't like them. I would STRONGLY suggest however that you only make one change at a time and test it out for a few days, rather than putting in both smaller idle and pump jets and then re-tuning with two variables!
  10. AustrianVespaGuy

    Hood Torsion Bar Arm Question

    That's definitely bent, but on the other hand if the hood closes correctly, sits straight, latches down nicely, and nothing rubs against something that shouldn't, you might consider leaving it alone. . . if it's not broke, don't fix it! I'll certainly understand if it just plain bugs you enough that you want to fix it anyway, just advocating that you probably don't need to stress or be in a big rush about it
  11. AustrianVespaGuy

    Your Mileage May Vary?

    Wait, what?!? Not that I'm wholly opposed to electric cars or anything, but I feel spending an already well-running 2002 on this endeavor is. . .not a good fit. At least find a beater that already doesn't have an engine in or something, bitte!
  12. AustrianVespaGuy

    BavAuto has Closed!

    Bummer, as I have used them without issues previously, but seems I mostly order from FCP Euro these days, not least of all for their lifetime warranty on pretty much everything.
  13. AustrianVespaGuy

    Fog Light Switch Question

    To answer the last bit of the OP's question: yes I previously used the dummy knob from the dash on a generic push-pull switch that I picked up from Autozone in order to get a functional switch in that location that looked proper. I'm about 95% sure it was this one: And for the sake of consistency, as always I'll link to my article on the 2002 lighting electrical system which is worth reading and understanding whenever you're about to start tinkering with lights:
  14. AustrianVespaGuy

    Looking for opinions...EFI talk

    For the throttle linkage, the main thing is to retain the vertical rod the goes to the lever on the pedal box, and use that rod to actuate some sort of bell crank on/near the brake booster (all kinds of ways to accomplish this), which in turn pulls on a cable that actuates the throttle. I previously used the E30 cable which worked pretty well, but I eventually got frustrated with the fact that it was a fixed length outer cable which was a bit long for my ideal routing, so I recently changed to a regular bicycle brake cable instead so that I can cut the outer cable to my desired length, use regular adjuster ferrules at both ends, and even coil up a spare inner cable to carry in the glove box, just in case!
  15. AustrianVespaGuy

    Heat Shrink vs Plastic Insulator

    Heat shrink tubing = awesomness, plain and simple. But while you're in there and messing with wiring, you'll probably also want to drop the $15 for either the 3M or Tesa cloth wiring harness tape, because once you start cleaning up wiring, it's a REAL slippery slope! or