AustrianVespaGuy

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About AustrianVespaGuy

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Dacula, GA

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  1. AustrianVespaGuy

    Single weber side draft conversion

    Her is where it's probably worth mentioning that the beauty of the Lynx manifold is the crossover design so that two adjoined cylinders are not competing with each other very much for a given intake charge, so while not quite as good as a fully independent runner setup (dual sidedrafts), it's much closer to that than the 38/38 plenum setup, with the big difference being throttle response and probably a small advantage in top end breathing. A key point though is it's not *just* a manifold made to slap a dcoe on there; it's well designed to make a single dcoe function more like dual dcoes.
  2. AustrianVespaGuy

    Single weber side draft conversion

    @SaharaX2 It's not quite that cut and dry, but I *think* that a single sidedraft 45 would probably give you a bit better top end though would also give up a little in the low/mid-range to the stock manifold. But frankly in terms of overall power and torque, I don't think it would be that different. What it WOULD certainly do though, is give you a bit better throttle response and it was also sound better (more intake note)! Hope that helps!
  3. AustrianVespaGuy

    Single weber side draft conversion

    For a stock cam you should stick with a 40 DCOE, 45 is only needed for a 292 or more aggressive cam. 284 could probably go either way. If you go to big you'll have poor throttle resolution and tuning difficulty down low as there won't be much vacuum signal. I know because I bought a lynx a long time ago that came with a 45 and I had those headaches until I switched to a 40, which really improved everything (for my stock motor). Nowadays you can avoid the tii booster conundrum by getting these curved velocity stacks from Ireland Engineering! http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/DCOEvelstk40.html After running the Lynx for a few years I switched to Megasquirt with the 318i manifold, but I've LONG thought about going back to the Lynx with a singe sidedraft TB. @Simeon is absolutely correct that injection staging and timing is the tricky part, but I have decided that it WILL work but one needs to size the injectors very, very precisely so that you can run 2 squirts/cycle and not let the pulse width get too low at idle, and still have the injectors big enough to flow for full power. In case anyone wants to try it before I get around to the experiment, I determined that you'd probably start with the Bosch dark blue top 36lb/hr injectors and then log the duty cycle for awhile and then move up to the lime green top 42 lb/hr injectors if needed. Also to note, I think 150 HP is about the max output this type of setup could handle. Any more and two injectors just won't cut it!
  4. AustrianVespaGuy

    Maybe its time for a different daily....

    I don't daily my car but have no qualms about driving it in public. Like @Mike G I too never leave anything in the car and also never lock my doors. Not like the door locks will stop anybody determined to get in anyway and this way I figure there's a chance that the windows might not get broken if they try. I also recommend putting in your own kill switch or similar (such as, for example, removing the distributor rotor) as a theft deterrent. Won't stop someone with a flatbed, but will make sure that it can't get driven off, plus then you don't feel bad about not locking the doors! To your other question, my daily driver for A/C and kiddo carseats is an E39 5-series, which I do highly recommend for DD duty! Beautiful and great car all around, work-onable, and there's enough engine options available from the baby six up through the M5 to suite almost all tastes!
  5. AustrianVespaGuy

    '76 '02...?

    It is pretty much all subjective stuff really, but I'm personally partial to the later 74-76 squaries for several small reasons, although I fully admit that I think early roundies definitely look better aesthetically! But some of the 'perks' I like on the later models include: - Big US bumpers. Yes they look dumb, they just do, absolutely. But they also work. I like to drive my car quite a bit, and with the big bumpers, I'm less scared about parking at the grocery store to pick something up. Because if if some dumb schmuck in an SUV does back up into me when they're pulling out, it all likelihood it won't ruin the bodywork and necessitate replacing sheetmetal. Same goes for the black rubber mid-line trim; not 100% effective but a lot better than zero at protecting against door dings. - The electrical system, once all of the smog crap has been removed, is more 'versatile,' in that it's easier to modify/upgrade stuff than on the early models, especially if we're comparing to the really early 6V systems (yuck!) - Later style 'short neck' differential is easier to rebuild and come in more fun flavors than the old style 'long necks.' Again, this all comes with aesthetic compromises; the US side markers are really dumb, I like the old silver dollar instrument clusters better, and as mentioned the grills and lights of the early models look nicer, so it just depends one what matters most to you, and then you just work to counter-act any compromises that bother you in the particular vintage of your car!
  6. AustrianVespaGuy

    Feeler: E21 head with cam

    Yes and yes, definitely a 284 regrind from Ireland Engineering.
  7. AustrianVespaGuy

    2nd wire on coil

    That diagnostic connector is actually quite useful with just a plain old multimeter; no fancy machine needed! The various pins in there include a +12V ignition signal, tach/RPM signal (that's the wire coming from the coil that you found), cranking signal, alternator output (so you can easily check if you have ~14+V here while running to make sure the alternator is working, +12V reference straight from the battery, and a ground wire. So I would definitely recommend keeping it, especially for a new project car, as it's a really handy place to quickly check many of your systems if/when something goes wrong! *EDIT* I'm referring to the connector on the driver's side fender, and actually not the one on the passenger side in the OP, sorry about that!
  8. AustrianVespaGuy

    Wiring Question

    @Einspritz is right on. Here's a pic. of how the current flows from the battery to the blower and then to ground on the wiring diagram. Should only work when key is in 'run' or 'start' positions. Check both the ignition switch wiring and the fuse panel wiring:
  9. AustrianVespaGuy

    Battery Cables

    The larger one should be the wire going to the solenoid from the starter relay under the dash. It's what actually actuates the solenoid (that big 'CLUNK' you hear first) and connects the big red wire from the battery to the motor windings. The smaller black one should go to the coil; I think it's to make sure that there's plenty of voltage at the coil for a good spark in case the voltage at the key dips some during cranking.
  10. AustrianVespaGuy

    Battery Cables

    Just make sure your positive terminal/cable can't ground against the frame in the nose if anything shifts around at all, and also make sure that you have both the frame AND the engine block tied solidly back to ground. If you don't, the current from the starter motor will 'find a way' to get from the block to the chassis in order to get back to the battery and I guarantee whatever path it finds is one that you will NOT like!
  11. AustrianVespaGuy

    Anyone need help in Seatlle/ Bellevue/ Redmond area?

    My brother lives in Bellevue and has a Z3M, I'll check with him and see if he has anything going on that you might want to get your hands into!
  12. AustrianVespaGuy

    Tranny Swap and More

    +10, then it's good that you're swapping out the transmission! There is NO better car / pedals for heel-n-toeing than the 2002! I've decided that it's a combination of them being bottom pivot, well positioned, and the brake being only mildly-boosted and therefore providing you a good solid pivot point for you foot. Could never heel/toe my old WRX very well because the brake was so boosted/soft that it was really tricky to modulate the brakes properly and still get the right amount of 'kick' to the gas pedal. Also stopped my cold from getting a new BRZ as the brake and gas pedals were in such vastly different planes that my foot simply couldn't reach both at the same time very well. Always makes me shake my head and wonder how they were able to get this just PERFECT 50 years ago and then went and f*cked it up on basically every car made since, but oh well. To be fair I'm sure rust, etc. had a lot to do with dooming the bottom pivot layout and rightly so, but still. . . I agree the spacing to the tunnel is a bit close though, particularly for those with larger feet and/or wide shoes, but this hasn't ever been much of an issue for me. Long post to say I think you certainly doing this for the right reasons and I hope that you enjoy shifting it as much as I do when you're done!
  13. AustrianVespaGuy

    Dash Lights take out Tach

    Tach gets 3 wires: black signal wire from the distributor, green for +12V power, and brown for ground. My best guess is that your ground wire is actually going to the positive side of the dash bulbs, so that when the lights are off, the tach is still grounded through the bulb filament(s). But when you turn the lights on, the voltage comes up and you are now at +12V instead of ground, and so the tach stops working. For example if you had the brown and grey wires swapped at this 3-pin location, I could see this happening. . .
  14. AustrianVespaGuy

    Need Some Wiring Direction

    I'll re-post it here to help you out a bit ;) 58bc5ffa35100_ELECTRICALCIRCUITDIAGRAMBMW1502-200273color05032017.pdf
  15. Innovate at least makes a nice looking A/F analogue gauge if that helps you at all. . . https://bumpersuperstore.com/i-11491874-innovate-motorsports-3824-g5-g5-black-face-chrome-bezel-gauge.html