Jump to content

AustrianVespaGuy

Solex
  • Content Count

    1,728
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7
  • Feedback

    100%

AustrianVespaGuy last won the day on July 3 2020

AustrianVespaGuy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

716 Excellent

3 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dacula, GA

Recent Profile Visitors

6,723 profile views
  1. Talk to @bluedevils here on the FAQ. I got some E39 rear belts from him that mount on the rear package shelf (with reinforcement on the underside). As I recall, there isn't *really* enough room under the rear seat to mount good retractors there, hence the parcel shelf route. You can also still put the retractors then and then go up through anchors on the C pillars for adult-sized people, but since my current needs are for smaller humans, that's not (yet) necessary:
  2. You know what I love? How here on the FAQ you can necro a decade old post and get a great answer from the OP that same day! What a great community this place is!
  3. Ha, how about that?! Ok, I stand corrected then!
  4. Naw, in fact I think much of the appeal of the 2002 comes from its inherent anti-supercar-ness. High enough production numbers to make decent availability, easy to work on, easy to live with, surprisingly utilitarian. . . in short all the qualities I felt our old contemporary 911 DIDN'T posses, and then even further down that spectrum we get to the real supercars, like the Countach or Stratos, and now IMO you're about as far away a 2002 as you can get! Just a few months ago I took my daughter camping in the 2002. Don't recall seeing any Boras out camping though, ever!
  5. Nah, not as long as you get it jetted out correctly. The only thing I'd be worried about with the 38 is it bogging if you roll on the throttle too fast. With a small engine and a lot of throttle area, you run the risk of the manifold pressure jumping up to atmospheric too quickly. And with 1 bar on the outside of the throttle plates and 1 bar in the backside of the throttle plates, then no pressure difference to draw out any fuel! Point being, you might just need to go a little bigger than you expect on the accelerator pump jets, but a little gentler on the accelerator pedal!
  6. I'm pretty confident in saying the closest setup to what you're describing would be a single DCOE on a Lynx manifold, which is just a great setup IMO, only caveat being air cleaner-to-brake booster clearance: https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/carbs-and-injection/weber/conversion-kits/bmw-2002-320i-m10-engine-single-sidedraft-dcoe-conversion-kits.html
  7. Even on a 1.8 I don't think you can really go 'wrong' with either a 284 or a 292. From my experience with them, the 284 actually gives you a little more 'meat' in the 2k-4k RPM range, while the 292 makes more power in the higher 5k-7k RPM range. Back when I was rebuilding my engine, new-billet options weren't available, it was NOS Schrick or a regrind. So I went with the 284 mainly because then I could get away with the regrind without worrying about needing lash caps or oversized eccentrics. But if I were doing it TODAY. . . since you can get a new-billet 292 from IE for $300, I'd do just that! On the carb though I'd probably vote 32/36, because while I'm sure the 38/38 will work, I do think that might be a tad big for the 1.8er.
  8. You certainly can't go wrong doing it that way! I do like to try to use existing wiring where possible just to help keep the installation 'cleaner,' but yeah if you're doing fog lights I don't think there's really any shortcuts. Gotta run *some* new wire for the fog light switch itself, and then might as well do it it right with a new relay, battery supply wire, fuse, etc.
  9. Mmm, I'm pretty sure the white wire is always power to the HIGH beams, no low beams. The 'free' white connector is usually for driving lights (higher long throw beams that work together with the wider high beams). If you're putting in fog lights, then those should only be on by themselves or with low beams, and never with high beams. As for this, I would still recommend using that white wire only to drive the coil of a relay, and then run a new good wire from the battery to the relay to carry the actually high current for the light bulbs themselves.
  10. Firstly, sorry for the pseudo thread-jack. . . Hey Jim, finally got around to doing this no-throttle warmup test also, good idea! All in all I'm quite happy with it. There's one little random surge in there that I can't explain, but for an open-loop stepper motor setup I think it's hard to have any complaints! ~1800 RPM for 2 seconds when it first fires, then settles to a cold idle of about 1300, drops down to about 750 when the stepper closes down completely (170deg), then comes back up to 850 fully warmed up (180deg). And ROCK solid AFRs at ~12.6 during cold enrichment and then 13.6 when warm! What a fun log to grab, so thanks again for the idea!
  11. If while bleeding when you press the brake pedal and it goes to the floor, then that fluid is going SOME where. And if it's not coming out of the open bleeders, then it's most likely because there's just more air in the lines that it is still displacing. Could also be leaking out somewhere, so check for dribbles, or *maybe* the fluid movement is being absorbed by the flexible lines, but I think this unlikely, because the pedal would feel a LOT different (firmer) than normal with the bleed valves open.
  12. If they're driving lights as opposed to fog lights, you can always just wire them to come on in conjunction with the high beams and thus you don't need to pass ANY new wires through the firewall. . .
  13. I'm sure it's not a *need* but I'd bet 320i replacements are a whole lot cheaper/easier to find than stock replacements these days, no? And while it's true they're *technically* not serviceable, you're always welcome to give it a try anyway. All you need to do is take a screwdriver to unbend all those little crimp fingers that hold the tank onto the core. Underneath the bottom lip of the tank is a big rectangular gasket. Once you're in there you can try to determine if the leak is in the actual core (small crack where a vertical tube is brazed to the horizontal 'header,' or if it looks like the leak was past that rubber gasket. Then it's just a matter of soldering the hole (if present), making sure the gasket is in good condition, putting it back in its groove, putting the tank back on, and then having something to press it down pretty hard to compress the gasket while you bend the fingers back into place. I'd say probably not worth the effort, but I'd never discourage someone from at least attempting a repair before throwing money at a replacement!
  14. Anyone here on the 2002tii.org site? Seems like it just recently got updated but now all the wiring diagram links are broken. Want to tell them of this but can't seem to find any webmaster link or such. . . Here's the section that used to be my go-to for information that now seems to suddenly be non-functional: https://www.2002tii.org/bmw-02-series-electrical-diagrams/
  15. Since we've necroed this thread and I posted in it originally, I suppose a follow up is in order. I ended up taking out my pod and building a little circuit with two LED bargraphs in it. One is for battery voltage and the other is hooked up to my wideband for AFR:
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.