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dlacey

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dlacey last won the day on July 21

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About dlacey

  • Birthday 07/29/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Penang, Malaysia
  • Interests
    67 Triumph TR4A, 68 Silver Shadow, 72 2002Tii, 73 Jaguar E-Type, 73 2002Tii w/Alpina mods, 74 2002turbo, 85 Alfa Spider, 03 Lotus Elise

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  1. http://www.serie6.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=5327&start=330
  2. Here's my car today, ~90F, 75%RH, midday. Sitting stationary in traffic for 10mins: Later, after 3 miles at 70mph: This car has 400/tropical fan, no shroud, additional 12" electric pusher fan on a homebrew AC system, Sanden SD5 compressor.
  3. To reinforce ray's point: there should be more than one red wire attached to battery +
  4. +1 on Dave's ignition point.. Only reason a kugel pump ever 'stops' is the either the input fuel pressure drops or the drive belt fails.....I've never heard of a running pump developing any fault that would stop a car running. It has to be ignition related...especially as at the start of the issue you had some ignition issue....fouled or flooded plugs?? Bad HT lead??
  5. +1 to Byron's point - these gearboxes are fiendishly complicated...designed by hyper-intelligent aliens...this is where the phrase 'transmissions from outer space' comes from. Its safer & quicker just to change the oil and put it in the car & hope it is good..
  6. Are the multiplugs behind the fuse box correctly installed?? Check the wire colours against the inlay card... I once somehow plugged two of them in wrongly and got wacky functions all over the car...
  7. ignition switch is correctly wired & working? relays are tested & fitted?
  8. Pull the plastic filler/finisher strip out first... It will be tough to get the screen back in with the tough old seal...so therefore you may as well sacrifice it to get the screen out... Use a sharp knife to cut the outer rubber away from the glass and lift the screen out. Buy a new rubber to avoid the risk of breaking your screen. If you wanna try to reuse the rubber, get inside the car & peel/pull the rubber away from the headliner in the corners and push forwards, glass and rubber come out together.
  9. The big issue with the 400mm is that it can 'catch' on the lower tank of the radiator. The 360mm rad fan fins sweep behind the rad core only, the core is inset from the top& bottom tanks of the rad, there's reasonable clearance. With 20mm longer blades, the 400 sweeps in front of the lower tank which sticks out ~10mm further, there's clearance to the fan blades but its tight. In a hard-braking situation the blades can hit the tank, but worse is the blade at 4 o'clock can get hung-up on the lip of the tank and forced forward, lunching the core in a spectacular manner. I'm talking about the standard-issue 02 radiator here.
  10. I noticed a significant difference in engine temperature when i fitted the tropical 400mm fan replacing my old 360, which maybe is not surprising given i live in a tropical climate. My orange car with 400mm, no shroud, behaves same as you describe, in the middle of the white zone with AC on & moving...creeps closer to top of white zone in standing midday traffic. When it had an unshrouded 360 it ran hotter in all condirions. When idling in traffic with the 400 it doesnt go into red, doesnt loose water, but is similarly slightly grouchy with a hint of preignition and will run-on if shutdown. My black car runs a 360 with an E21 shroud, thats equally good. These are 'homebrew' AC systems on 02tii (space limitations for belts etc).
  11. Consider the fan shroud...W&N has it listed for an 2002, but I don't know exactly when it was fitted to 02s, I believe it was standard on e21. https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/motorteile-kuehlung/bmw-1502-2002-turbo/katalogbild-11-34.html The shroud has a big impact on the efficiency of the mechanical fan, especially at low speeds. Your radiator needs to have some mounting points for the shroud...I dunno if the W&N rad includes those.
  12. Hey Jim, Yes this is the turbo pump and in addition to the normal oil feed shared with tii pumps, theres at least one additional oiling point. That snpashot at the top of my post is from a turbo service buletin that @Einspritz shared: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=341208 Seems it needs a top-up every 8000miles... but I am wondering if theres two top-ups as that bulletin list 'control piston' and 'drive mechanism' needing service....or is this second one the 'first install' oiling you mention above? Dave
  13. Hi All, BMW service bulletin 832 (with thanks to Einspritz) mentions 2 parts of the Injection Pump that must be serviced with oil top-up: One is the small Allen-Head screw here (i think😞 The one referred to in Richard Stern's Tech Supplment: https://www.bmw2002.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/bmw-2002-turbo-technical-supplement.pdf Which/where is the other one? Dave
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