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dlacey

Solex
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About dlacey

  • Birthday 07/29/1966

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  1. The oxalic acid worked, I was able to salvage the float, the plastic contact bar from the bottom of the unit and remove most of the garbage obscuring the top plate Thanks
  2. From the turbo sender unit I salvaged one full line of the resistance wire, from the top to the bottom. This wire in 304mm in length and has a resistance of 42.5 Ohm. So that would mean the double length top-bottom-top would be around 85 Ohm.
  3. The alloy section of the turbo sender is 282mm long
  4. The Euro Hella units are not handed. Adjustment range is quite limited, if your car has some front end 'experiences' over the years then the mounting points for the lamps might be distorted. In that scenario your only option is to shim and seal the mount.
  5. Helicoil, thats what Rolls Royce did for all threads in alloy for their V8...so its not a second-rate repair its a recognised way to strengthen a thread, with teh advantage that it can fix many broken threads.
  6. As some of you know, I am rebuilding a 02turbo that's been sitting festering for some years here in Malaysia. The sender unit has suffered by sitting in half a tank of decomposing fuel...it's interesting that the worst corrosion is at the surface of the fuel level, not at the bottom of the tank...i guess it's the oxidation of the fuel - alkane~alcohol~aldehyde~carboxylic acid and it's this acid which corrodes everything. As you can see, the central guide rod inside the sender has rusted thru...and the float is rusted in place at the fuel level... The rest of it is rather crusty...but it might be saveable.. So, I'll need to fashion a new rod and string some new resistance wire.. The turbo tank is much deeper, the sender longer... Do you think they used a different resistance wire?? So that the same dash assembly as standard could be used?? Or maybe it doesn't make much difference....???
  7. A quick update: the body is back, in fresh Polaris. I didn't paint the area under the rear seats to maintain the burn marks from the diff fire for posterity... I have started assembly of the fibreglass parts and some of the trim, I have a plan for air conditioning without any permanent body modification, LHD pedal box and brake master assemblies are in (first experience for me of LHD-specific bits).
  8. I have two parts that I cannot identify... The first is definitely an 02 part, probably a turbo-specific part....where does this go?? It's a bit bent, certainly an engine bay part...but where exactly?? The second was returned to me by my body shop, they said they had removed them from the bare shell I supplied... I am not sure this is an 02 part at all... Anybody recognise??
  9. Thanks those measurements worked perfectly, the spoiler is now where it belongs!.
  10. With it running, lay your fingers on the plastic injection lines...can you feel the pulse on No4? If yes then the pump likely ok...if no then suspect suction valve in pump or bad injector.
  11. I believe the early (without), no sign of that mounting point on mine...
  12. Take the bleed nipple out and clean it...that cylinder very simple...if u got fluid on the inlet it can only be a blockage just there or the nipple...
  13. Hi all, I am trying to reinstall the factory trunk lid spoiler...does anyone have photos or measurements of the hole positions for the spoiler. I have seen pics where the spoiler is mounted butting-against the rear alloy waist trim & others where I see it mounted 1inch away.... How should it be on an original turbo? Dave
  14. Pull the knobs off and then those faceplates will unclip and pull out towards you
  15. It should be quite smooth and rev fine... Aftermarket AC pipes can have the unfortunate side effect of transmitting NVH into the body shell. It should idle smooth...if it's shaking around then something is wrong and/or your cam is hot.
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