dlacey

Maybe in that moment of flash you pulled the small start-signal wire off of the starter solenoid?? But you say 'no power at all to anything'...so that must mean a basic thing...check the battery connections, check the earth points. Since you have a non-standard battery location, maybe there's a fuse in that main power cable somewhere?

I wouldn't worry about that, I am running the Volvo 80amp alt and it's same...car starts, ignition light stays on...blip the throttle, light goes out & stays out for the rest of the drive.

Hey Ian, Nice find! It's looks quite solid. As you said, the front has been changed to the >73 style, that was quite common in the 90's when <73 parts were harder to find and people liked the modern look. The trunk lid is also off a later car. There's something weird with the edge of the bulkhead, where the air plenum for the heater is...all looks a bit wonky there. Take care with the sunroof, the plastic ends of the drive cables are getting brittle after 40+ yrs...tok much force can break them and new cables are $hocking.

2002_turbo_handbook_supplement_de.pdf View full article

if its 19mm it will work

BMW North America Service Training Guide for the Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection system, published February 1980 BMW_2002tii_Fuel_Injection_System.pdf This is a searchable PDF View full article

If the ~flatish line around 13 is AFR, then that suggests fueling OK, well in the good torque/power range of AFR12.5-13... so why is your power bouncing around? doesnt look like the kugel is failing to deliver....ignition maybe? some timing issue?

Hey Dion, These Kugel pumps are super reliable, so while it's not impossible that something deep inside has gone bad after 45+ years, it's still more likely to be something external. Check for wear and vertical play in the shaft that runs from throttle body to pivot point on the back of the pump, check and double check the 85mm rod, tune it by the book and if that still gives you mid range issues, set it up with the D cam half covering the 4mm hole in the tuna can, and then everything else by the book. That will richen mixture part-throttle. Only once everything else is eliminated should you consider the pump... It should be possible to get the pump serviced at a Bosch Diesel service place that deals with truck&marine diesel pumps...

I think it was originally flat, but there was some problem with it fouling and a Service Bulletin recommended bending it.. EDIT sorry, that's the spring perch at the top of the shaft I am talking about.. on my spare part the lower ball pivot is flattish/perpendicular..

Suggest you route the heavy gauge wire from the battery direct to the starter motor...thats where the Amps are needed. Then you can run a much lighter gauge wire from the starter to the wiring loom/alternator. Thats better than trying to mimic the original battery position with another high-current connection that needs protection and mounting. (This is how Rolls Royce did the Silver Shadow in 1965 - with trunk mounted battery)

I got a trunk mounted battery, fuse & switch. The fuse is 250A and it's before the switch - closest to battery for max protection. Works fine, original-type starter spins enthusiastically.

The back can stay, just pull the bench out to reduce friction and give better access to the trim panel. Yes i mean this rectangular metal bracket/fixing/clamp thing with the small ~5.5mm nut on the back.

To get to the back of there you need to remove the trim panel inside below the window...thats easier to do if you take the rear seat squab out first. The panel just pulls up, its clipped on a ledge just inside the window. I dont think its standard to have a screw-on fixing there..should all be plastic clips on that section.