dlacey

The master cylinder has 2 outlets at the centre and 3 outlets at the end. The 2 centre outlets go to one set of pistons on the 4-pot front calipers (upper/lower doesnt matter but be symmetric) The 3 outlets at the end: 2 go to the other set of front calipers, one remaining outlet goes to the rear... sometimes theres a spring-loaded valve on one M/cyl outlet- thats a residual pressure valve...and that is the rear brake line (residual pressure stops long-pedal caused by poorly adjusted rear brakes). PDWA was added on later cars...you can delete it. Brake balance valve really depends on your brake setup.

That last pic is a pressure differential warning actuator: its connected to both brake circuits and warns of a pressure differential between the circuits. The part 'Next to 5' is a brake pressure regulator that was fitted to come models to improve front-rear brake balance. Yes, you are right, the pipe to the rear runs from this.

Its a safety issue at higher lattitudes with a risk of corriolis-effect-induced oversteer if both passenger & driver were winding windows at the same time.😉

After 20+ years working on 02s the only special or specific tools I have are the bent open ended 17mm spanner for rear brake shoe adjustment and a 'thinned' 24mm straight ring spanner to access the bolt that holds the 2 propshaft sections together.

I got one about 6 weeks ago from W&N delivered to Malaysia...the box arrived crumpled and the shock sensors had been triggered (standard Asian customer care)...but it was well-packed in a cushioned but not rigid way and the screen itself was perfectly fine.

I did this last week...I used a bench vise and a piece of metal pipe just larger than the bush, about 2 inches long (to form a void into which to push the old bush). I basically use the new bush to push the old one out...when you clamp the new bush in the vise the rubber distorts a bit but springs back when you're done...liberal lubricant then the old sleeve starts to move quite easy. Beware the new bush has orientation arrows...be clear which way is up....

The 2002 turbo ran a 3.36:1 LSD with a 4sp or CR5sp.

I guess it would cost you 5-8K in parts to return the engine to tii spec. in the pics you can see all the tii specifics...so all the other bits are there. Not sure why the engine bay is so black....... If its not rusty and you wanna either stick with the carb, invest in tii parts, or convert to EFI then its a good starting point.

I would not recommend trying to replace just the chrome filler. even with a new/pliable windscreen seal is a tough job to get that filler to seat properly... on an old rubber i would expect the seal will resist strongly and theres a risk that the rubber will be damaged by the forces you'll need to use....as an alternative use a chrome 'wrap' of the type used to cover car bodywork....fiddly but will look ok.

I am in !

Nice Spec, very original...but the glimpses of rust in the front fenders, rockers and rear shock towers indicate that this is a major project. Still its worth more as a complete car than it is as parts. Bargain at 4K, Good Project at 8K, Wince at 12K (pre-covid economy)

+1 for Paul's approach Mounting the block by the right side (exhaust side) gives maximum access to the rest of the block to fit flywheel and even clutch cover on the stand... You can even test-run the engine on the stand like that if your neighbors are deaf. Only thing to fit later might be the exhaust manifold and AC/Air pump (if you have those).

http://www.my2002tii.com/how_to_dash_gauges.htm On the earlier clusters there are three plastic rings that go in from the front and the glass/lock ring from the back... for the >73 clusters (incl turbo red face) the individual rings are replaced with one large panel with the 3 gauge apertures. It fits similarly: there are tabs that push through from the front and are locked in place by the metal twist-fit lock rings after the glass is fitted. You need to take the cluster out of the dash and remove the instruments to do this.

I took a look at mine...the slider does not hit the raised 'nub', it already extends to the raised position about 1/2 inch before that. Here's mine fully closed, similar position to yours....so the only thing causing the rear slider to move into its raised position is the fact that the panel stops moving...there's no separate ramp pushing things up. Since yours is electric (I have one also, but the example here is a manual), could it be a low voltage issue meaning the motor can't do the last part?? Have you tried it holding revs at 2krpm so the alternator gives enough volts to really spin the motor?? My electric roof is sometimes slow and the roof won't slide at all on battery, it always works fine with engine running.

Thanks thats clear now, the cables are only attached to the sliding piece at one point (Your first pic in this thread), the winding mechanism has no 'setting' or alignment, it just pulls the cables forward as you close. So the issue must be the assembly or mounting of the rear cable ends...thats all there is. can you get a pic of the cable end...i know its difficult to see with the panel in-place.