dlacey

never heard it happen on BMW before, but on other cars this symptom is always the brake booster, normally the air valve doesnt close properly so the brakes are partially on all the time. If you disconnect & block the vacuum pipe, then that isolates the booster... car should still drive...beware brakes will require a lot more foot pressure...but the binding should go away. That proves its the booster causing the brake drag, and it needs an urgent repair or replacement.

Nice on-the road comparison of crusty injected green to shiny turboed white:

I think you need to remove the metal sunroof panel from the outside and then loosen one of the aluminium tracks in order to release that sunroof trim panel up & out. Don't wrestle with it, because if you bend the steel frame then that panel will never look the same again...

As I understand Kugelfischer design, it will stop injection with throttle closed until the engine speed drops to idle revs....so its a feature, not a defect..... Lean could also be misfire

I dont know for a fact, but given the nature of required 'matching' of fueling & induction on these 'dumb' Kugel systems, the cone will be different. Here's the Lucas Developments cone museum:

Not my pic but an oldpic... This is an endurance event in May '64. Quality of roads in this region back then must have made this quite an achievement. About 1800km each way..

You have 2 fuses ...7&8 (or maybe 8&9,I can't recall) one does left side lights front &rear, the other does right side, licence plate & instruments

Fusebox changed over the years...what year/model do you have?

Have you got instrument lights?? It's probably a fuse issue... Switch is quite rugged & fuse should always save it from overload...

Clutch sometimes hard to bleed, often will fix itself if left overnight. If not that then maybe a wrong release bearing?

This is an original ~1973 Alpina Alloy Air Dam, fitted in UK when car was new, together with these 'quarter bumpers'. This type of airdam mentioned in James Taylor's BMW Alpina book, it says these alloy ones were quickly superceded by glass fibre designs

True, but you cant use an LED headlamp in the >73 cars that have relays in both Hi & Lo beam circuits for the reasons above... the only option is to 'rip out' /modify a few wires near the relays...or stick with incandescents.

2nd Q 1st: Because LEDs are not resistors - they are diodes....that means they dont conduct 'backwards' and their 'forward' characteristic is non-linear in the 0-2V range. Its quite common for Car manufacturers to use the resistor character of incandescent lamps for additional features (here its fail-safe approach to prevent over-current, in some cars its part of the bulb failure diagnostic) 1st Q 2nd: I think you could make LED headlamps work by using relays with SPDT double throw and wiring the dipped beam direct to ground rather than thru the filament... need to sketch a suitable circuit...

Since you have a voltmeter, connect it to battery minus and at the lamp...are you still seeing 13+V? Connect it to Battery minus and the lamp ground connection....do you see anything more than 0.1V? If you dont see 13V then check relays and fuse condition....if you see more than 0.1V on the ground then its time for cleaning earth points... can't comment on 'smart' lamps reacting to voltage - honestly that sounds unlikely that the lamp has some voltage sensing circuit.

I also bought Jason's 'Zeitschalter' PCB and fitted it to my orange daily driver tii. Results are flawless, it starts well hot or 'cold' (i live in the tropics) and the PCB fits in the original housing perfectly so we can retain that 'factory' look. Thats better than the Bosch replacement part which has a different form factor & looks 'wrong' on your bulkhead. I've been running it for a few months so far and can confirm it stands-up to humidity and engine bay temperatures fine. Great job by Jason for getting this working in the right package, especially mimicing the connector so that the original wiring loom plug fits easily.