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About SydneyTii

  • Birthday 02/28/1965

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  1. It’s not often you get to look under the cowl above your heater box, bit of surface rust, so sanded, and absolutely drenched with Bilt Hamber anti rust wax, no more rust in my lifetime, this stuff is amazing! Removing the heater box wasn’t too bad, cleaning off the mastic was aided by scrapping and discovering it dissolves with methylated spirts!! But boy did they goop it on, look at it all around the panel and on the old box! Bit of painting and the new heater can go in. Oh and thanks to Rob Siegel for the idea of blocking off the heater entry and exit, I didn't fancy a shower, I just adapted the “hack” to suit, pun intended, as I couldn’t get the purpose made block offs. The old box case is actually in really good shape, may rebuild as it doesn't hurt to have a spare.
  2. Yes that’s the cruel and evil trick of 10mm sockets, they let you believe they are just where you left them......
  3. Yeah you think you do...... until you go look for it!! 👀
  4. I’ve done it on areas where there is no requirement for strength, I had a hole about the 1.5cm diameter behind the sound deadener in the heater plenum area, the rest was mint, the work required to weld this in a car not stripped out was not practical, so I sanded back to bare steel, rust treated, fibre glassed it, primed and painted. on the back of the panel I did the same as best I could, I then sprayed with clear Bilt Hamber rust preventing wax both sides, no air will get through that! And you’d never know there was a repair. i don’t expect an issue. As Toby says it has its place. so just don’t bodge it 😀
  5. Wouldn’t hurt to have one, simple L bracket would work.
  6. However never seems to work on 10mm sockets that you swear you saw just fall right down there......🙄
  7. I’ve never seen that before! My sides were original and never had the bracket, must have been the austerity package😜
  8. The piece nearest the handbrake will fit between the sides so that it can pick up the bracket mounted to the trans tunnel, so you screws may be a bit high. The rear bracket position can be copied from the old piece, but it’s position needs to be such that the “tabs” which hold the air deflectors sit below the air outlets from the heater box. Ive just made new sides and to be honest by the time the console is pushed under the dash I’d say friction alone would keep mine in, I pushed it in today, no screws and it’s rock solid!! But I will screw the front bracket in. Some pics, old and new. it’s a bit twisted so I will fix tomorrow, but you get the idea.
  9. Drill the panel behind the back seat, drill the floor between the shock towers, you could even drill the shock towers but you’d be in trouble then😜 The guys with the rear battery mounts have good pics of where they grounded.
  10. Hasn’t Paul W got a kit at Maximilian?
  11. So it looks like the front timing case is non Tii as well, the alternator is an 02 alternator as it sits up top and not down low per the Tii type. id go Jenvey Heritage ITB’s on this.
  12. Yeah no idea Mike, I think it may be an old immaculate door that had the skin removed for whatever reason many years ago, but there is nothing to support this, as there is no evidence of any welding, perhaps the skin is just crimped on. I don’t recall BMW offering inner shells when I bought my other complete door years ago. Its also not black like all the other panels I’ve bought from BMW. Perhaps it was dipped, as there isn’t any top coat paint on it, and it is very clean. I’m going to hit it with Etch primer. Cheers.
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