Jump to content

dlacey

Turbo
  • Posts

    1,613
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16
  • Feedback

    0%

Community Answers

  1. dlacey's post in LED Headlight Issue was marked as the answer   
    On the >73 cars the headlamps are wired in a clever way so that dip & full beam cannot be turned-on together. As I recall, the full beam relay is earthed thru the dipped beam bulb filament... If that filament is energised then there's no earth and the full beam relay won't operate...if dipbeam is un-energised, the resistance of the filament is low enough to provide earth path for the relay (hi beam relay works)...smart.
     
    But when we replace the resistive bulb filament with an LED bulb system, this "secondary function" of the dipped beam bulb to act as the earth for the full beam relay doesn't work.
     
    This may be your issue?
  2. dlacey's post in Problem with Cold Start Solenoid 72 Tii was marked as the answer   
    Could be exactly that
    @JsnPpp is our zeitschalter expert (the electronic gizmo that supplies the 12V you measured.
     
    Maybe time for a new one?
  3. dlacey's post in Auxiliary fan relay wiring was marked as the answer   
    Yes, that will keep the fan on until the thermoswitch opens ..but on a hot engine that may take some time. Or if the overide switch is on, then the fan runs indefinitely....may flatten your battery as the fan likely draws a few 10s of amps.
    That's probably the fan windmilling enough to generate some volts to light the lamp.
     
     
    It might be better to consider a relay with a built-in timer, to keep the fan running for 5mins after the ignition goes off, rather than rely on the thermoswitch (which might stay closed for 30mins+ after a drive??).
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/373519221666
    Something like this should plug into the above circuit and provide 5 or 10 mins fan time provided either the thermoswitch or overide switch are on.
     
  4. dlacey's post in rubber trans mount cracking already? was marked as the answer   
    i studied rubber many years ago, as part of work on improving stability... rubber in its unstressed state has quite good stability, oxygen from the air attacks the surface forming a dense hard layer that acts to protect the underlying rubber.
    Rubber in compression has very good oxidative stability... actually many buildings and bridges have rubber within the structure to give some compliance... even after 100 years this rubber is still good.
    Stretched rubber, rubber in extension, is a different matter... the oxidised surface layer cracks and the oxygen can continue to to get inside the rubber through the cracks and continue to degrade the materials. This is why stretched rubber bands around your house last just a few weeks, but unused rubber bands in your office drawer are still good years later.
     
    So, in your case, the outer layer is stretched due to the distortion caused during assembly, some twisting is evident that might make it worse. But the inner bulk of the mount is under compression (the weight of the gearbox) and these surface cracks will stop once they penetrate to the compressed bulk. So, i think those cracks are just cosmetic and the bulk of the mount that's doing 'the work' is fine and will remain so.
  5. dlacey's post in Left Hand Drive conversion was marked as the answer   
    I have done both LHD to RHD and RHD to LHD.... stupidly I discarded my LHD spares after the first conversion and had to source again for the second (unexpected) conversion.
     
    I think @dp lists the parts quite completely, be aware that LHD tii brake boosters are quite expensive.. .. to do it well you'll need a wiring loom, at least the dash section...otherwise you'll need to extend ~20 wires that go to the cluster. The exhaust downpipes are also different to clear the RHD steering box.
     
    90% of the job is bolt-on changes, but there are bulkhead holes that need to be cut (Pedal box and steering column) and the RHD holes will need to be closed. Also, be aware that the dash metal 'shelf' (the bit the plastic dash sits upon) is different LHD-RHD and will need to transplanted from a donor (cut out & weld-back).  if no donor available, you could cut new apertures for heater controls and cluster etc from a template.  The other small thing is the throttle pedal pivot which is welded to the floor (you can buy the pivot from specialists, as most originals have corroded away).
     
    A good source of parts is the german eBay Kleinanziegen .. unfortunately most sellers only ship in Germany... it might be best to make a friend in Germany who can collect the shopping and help with one consolidated shipment.
     
    Might be easier to buy an LHD shell/non-runner/partial resto and build that up to tii spec.
  6. dlacey's post in Tii stumbles, is it Dizzy? was marked as the answer   
    If the tach is really dropping them that ponts to a low tension failure... Maybe condenser or a simple loose connector on dizzy or coil...or maybe even a intermittent short on the black wire coil-dizzy-cluster. Could also be a bad coil.
  7. dlacey's post in anyone drive around much w/out rear quarter windows? was marked as the answer   
    I had a 2002 on a flatbed transporter driving on 237 in Mountain View California  back in 2001 when the rear window blew out, went ~30ft up in the air before smashing on the highway. That car had front & rear screens but no side windows at all... The transporter was driving ~55ish.
  8. dlacey's post in Wur raises..no contact with stopper? was marked as the answer   
    More likely the spring is missing/stretched or the pivot point is gummed-up. In the warm situation, can you reach-in and push the arm (AKA enrichment lever) until the screw hits the stop? You should be able to easily 'waggle' it against the spring pressure...if not: what is stopping it? any mechanical obstruction?
  9. dlacey's post in Removing hood release handle knob? was marked as the answer   
    Put whole thing in deep freeze for 2 days...then place just the plastic knob in a cup of hot water...differential thermal expansion combined with poor heat conduction of plastic should allow a window of time to pull the plastic away from the shrunken metal....... Never tried it for this piece...but that's my guess.
  10. dlacey's post in Emanual.online was marked as the answer   
    Hey Gil,
    Don't risk getting scammed at emanuel.lineon, it's probably run by the Russians. 
    We have the manuals here:
    https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles/technical-articles/history-and-reference/
×
×
  • Create New...