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0257 last won the day on September 16 2020

0257 had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Sarasota, FL
  • Interests
    Uh, old BMWs?

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  1. In the right hands, anything is possible! No doubt about that. I understand the buyer has other'02s, so I imagine he knows what he's getting into.
  2. It closed at 19K. Feeling pretty good about my ‘74tii on that pre-money valuation.
  3. A bit. Nothing special based on what I saw. But the fact that the entire trunk was rattlecanned in a non-gloss finish suggested I shouldn’t pull it back any further.
  4. Having inspected the BAT car a couple of days ago I can tell you I couldn’t bring myself to bid on it at all.... a dedicated salvager might get 11K out of selling it part by part over a period of years, but it needs to go right back on the rotisserie for a do-over. I have really enjoyed reading Delia at “maximum restraint”, though.
  5. Given that the hole felt a bit loose after all the cleaning/chasing, I went with loctite 263. If that won’t seal it.... but the main issue I was dealing with here was use of the wrong stud. Slow learner.
  6. Removed the brand new, nicely loctited, ANODIZED INTAKE stud from the top hole over the no. 4 exhaust port, cleaned the hole out (again) with a thread chaser and Brakleen, and installed a new BLACK loctited EXHAUST stud. Good thing I got nothing but time....
  7. In fact, I think it was winter of ‘74! Go Fremont Indians!
  8. Will never forget driving up there — the Tahoe cheap seats — from Sunnyvale in a friend’s ‘63 MGB one winter afternoon, only to discover the morning after that he hadn’t any antifreeze in the system. Yeah.
  9. Happily, the juncture at the booster is dry and dusty. Thanks for the tip. Whoops, my photos from that last post ended up as a response to S. Marty’s. For anyone who’s never seen a residual pressure valve up close.🤨
  10. Noticing a bit of bubbling paint on the frame rail under the master cylinder, I observe that the rear brake pipe is a bit rusty/moist where it exits the master. Also there’s a bit of rust above the doohickey (some kind of adapter/limiter?) into which the brake line is fitted. I think there must be a slow leak at this juncture, either above or below the doohickey. Can anyone tell me what that doohickey is, why it’s needed, and — bonuse points — what is likely causing the leak and whether replacing the line is likely to be a fix? Thanks.
  11. Yikes! Suggest you consider replacing all the cooling replaceables; thermostat, water pump (I feel your pain re the general quality - my new one squeaks on startup already), hoses, radiator (or recore), flush the block thoroughly. Otherwise you end up in a hide and seek game come May in Tampa, and there is no convenient way to empty the coolant — a mess every time. Keep posting.
  12. Yeah, scope creep continues. I used VHT primer and topcoat for the exhaust parts. The rear subframe is all Eastwoods ceramic epoxy product. What’s your current scope creep?
  13. Carlos, there’s actually a thread on the faq about this, but the short of it is: remove your grills, and you’ll see the already-there holes on the vertical metal nose braces. Suitable nuts/bolts/washers and 10 minutes later they’re on. For ‘74 and later cars, you have to hacksaw out a small section of one grill crossmember on each grill. This is an IQ test for many of us, as it’s really easy to eyeball it, say “oh yeah, that one” and then cut the wrong one. But the actually cutting takes 30 seconds for each grill. The driving light end of the bracket is just a hole, and virtually all driving lights have a threaded post that passes through it, and a nut and washer to secure the light against it. Have to admit I’m still puzzling through how to do fine directional adjustments to my Hellas, but since the car has been up on jackstands virtually since i put the lights on last August I have never really had the need to figure out out!
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