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0257 last won the day on September 16

0257 had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Sarasota, FL
  • Interests
    Uh, old BMWs?

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  1. Well then, I’ll be sweating in an oak motte near Brady if it doesn’t cool off in the next week.
  2. First-level disassembly done, degreased, ready to pull hubs and push out the rest of the old bushings and seals. Then off to paint, though these components barely need it— can’t believe they’re almost 46 years old — and put the new stuff on/in. But first, innit deer season in Texas?
  3. Time for the old rearrefresh. Cheap tranny jack and a nudge or two from the floor jack, and voila. Hope it’s as easy going the other way. That all just sounds tawdry somehow.
  4. Mosman58, I don’t have an opinion about different coolants, but I am using blue BMW brand coolant, loosely 50/50 with distilled water. I guess there’s one thing I like better about it than the stuff from Autozone — it’s less oily feeling, cleans up easier.
  5. Update: I put this down for a while, as I had to hit the road for a few weeks. On return, I pulled the radiator and discovered an airflow restriction between radiator and A/C condensor that had not been evident on prior inspection. Also treated the cooling system with Thermocure, removing a ton of internal rust. Running issue is resolved; coolant gauge runs south of 3 o’clock. Now waiting for a really hot day to test how it idles with a/c on. Did not have to replace the water pump. I note it chirps a bit on startup. On to other stuff. Thanks again for all the observations, suggestions and patience.
  6. You kind of wonder what else that guy had in the attic! Kudos to you for making the drive; looks like the payoff was immediate. That reminds me that a friend has offered me a BMW OEM windshield for $200 if I'm willing to drive to Santa Fe, NM to pick it up...
  7. Looks good. Have you got pix of how you suspended the car for that job? Adjustable stands?
  8. Painfully close paraphrasing.
  9. In case still relevant to this thread (😝), have now checked timing (perfect), checked for hydrocarbons in coolant (nada), and have checked the whole outside of the engine and cooling system with a $2000 heat imager (borrowed, natch). The #$%$! thing checks out. And still heats up. So next will swap out the new water pump for a new new water pump (wth! the car only went off the rails when I put in the new water pump!). In the likely event that fix doesn't take, consider sending me your favorite parts list for a full rebuild.
  10. Don’t know why I said butyl — too much roof and window work at the house lately? I used SS’s Luxury Liner Pro mass loaded vinyl/foam for the floorboards.
  11. You’ll never know how much rust you have till you take all the old insulation out. A surprising amount of water collects over the years around the heater box, pedal box and floor plugs. Dry ice is best way to break up the old stuff. Sometimes helps to use cardboard or styrofoam baffles to hold the mush in place on vertical surfaces like trans tunnel. No metal implements needed (and why brook more rust by compromising paint where it’s still good?). You’ll go through a few plastic putty knives, but it all pops off eventually. Residue removal using acetone and soft brushes/cloths. POR self-etching primer/POR-15 to reseal the surface. Remove and treat the floor plugs, which I assure you are not sealing even if they appear tight. Then replace them using plenty of seam sealer or other suitable sealer. Remove and re-seal the heater box — in fact, I suggest you rebuild it or have Hami Pramono do so. If you have AC, you never want to have to service the heater box. Not hard to get out and out if you have the console out. I looked at a lot of products for vibration dampening. Settled on SecondSkin, which is high quality, easy to apply, won’t smell or fume. It’s basically the same as dynamat, adhesive/rubber/foil, but a touch less expensive. For the serious soundproofing layer I used SS’s deluxe butyl layer, over 1/2” thick, and heavy. I cut and taped together and laid down a single sheet on the floor on each side of the tunnel, from under the dash to the rear seat. Then taped together pieces (it does best if it’s contiguous) to cover the rear floor/trunk surfaces. Laid loose strips in the bottoms of the doors and rear quarter panels to pick up sound there. The greatest thing: didn’t have to use any glue or other adhesive, and the thick layer will not bunch up under the carpet. When I need to get under it I can just lift the carpet and then the butyl layer. And it EATS sound. Everywhere else: trans tunnel, quarterpanel walls, inner door skins, I used Siless 1/8” closed cell foam, making sure to leave weep holes at places like trim and ensuring no water catchments exist at top edges (the adhesive is good, but it’s tough to stick it down in some of the recesses). I doubled it in some places, but left a single layer on the trans tunnel and Esty’s beautiful #405 carpet fit over it like a glove. Between the SS dampener, the Siless foam and the SS butyl layer, with the Koogle underdash panels in place the car is pretty quiet. Mind you, have not tried my hands-free phone yet.
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