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  1. Thanks, John. This will be helpful. And further digging on the faq reveals a pretty direct answer, from SteveJ, to my “what do the pins do” question. The project is underway. K
  2. Jumping on this excellent thread as I contemplate installing driving lights. Still absorbing learning regarding wiring, and especially like AustrianVespaGuy’s diagrams for daytime running lights with a nighttime driving light option — ie, ability to run with or without the driving lights when in high beam, depending on main driving light switch setting. For purposes of my main driving light switch setting, I have the coveted green fog light switch, provided by Ray - who wants it back if I don’t promptly put it to use! See photo. So I am seeking any available learning about how this switch normally would be wired to run fog lights, what each pin is intended to connect to, etc. I don’t find this switch in my tii wiring diagram, but note that it is lit by applying 12v to “center” pin. All the other pins have continuity when the switch is on. I figfure I should ground one pin, and run another to a fresh high beam power relay. Where does the third one go? And to what does one connect the center pin (green-white “switched/fused” power)?
  3. All great observations, Mike. All 6 new grommets in, and in the process of degreasing and cleaning the door skin in prep for sound deadener I found every last old door brake artifact. And scraps of factory sound deadener -- interestingly, the factory sound deadener patch on both doors had broken down and fallen off, leaving a rectangle of light surface rust (since POR'd). So I'm guessing that your second paragraph is where the money is on this one. That or I missed something loose in the window framing. I'm going to try shimming the window from inside with some foam or something stuffed between interior trim and glass, and see if that kills the clank. Regardless, looks like that panel is coming off again.
  4. Fjord’s door panels are back on, with the new door brakes, cleaned latches and locks, dampening and sound insulation, and of course grommets. Windows and vents are tightly bolted in, and the height/fit good. With the windows down, the doors close like an expensive coffin’s lid. Shoonk. But with the windows up, they sometimes close with a clank. And driving with the windows up, I still get a clank going over bumps. The windows are in the channels tight, the channels look tight, and when I push pull the top of the window it does not clank. I can lift/depress the window by grasping and pulling up/pushing down, but only an inch or so, and it’s not noisy whenI do. So I’m wondering: where isthat clank coming from? Hard to imagine there’s not already a thread on this, but I’m not finding it. Oh yeah, I can drive with the windows up in FL in late May because the ICE unit is in and working. Still working out the finer points of the install, will report on that as soon as I feel it has reached optimal performance. Ken
  5. That crappy old Ireland bracket is sounding better all the time.
  6. Still got ‘em and now they’re $400🤑
  7. A plethora of choices. I have studied a couple of those threads; I get pretty bogged down trying to pick the right solution to these “soft” issues. No “right” answer, and you get one shot — unless, like Danco, you have a warehouse full of old door panels!
  8. Andrew, do you still like the same solution you used for the aluminum plastic trim? That’s next.
  9. Thanks for the query. To my surprise, the text I intended to post with these photos did not post. To summarize, I used two techniques and sets of materials. To address the floppy edges, I painted each leaf with Titebond II waterproof wood glue, reaching as far into the folds as I could push the glue. Like painting each page of the phone book of a small town. Then as you see in the photo, pressed together with clamped plywood strips faced with plastic sheets (you don’t want the plywood to bond to the cardboard). To reinforce the clip holes, I first adhered squares of fiberglass sheetrock tape across the holes, then slathered JB-Weld onto that surface, poking it into the walls of the hole and being careful not to build up any surfaces (there is not much tolerance for the clips to fit). I was a little disappointed that the Titebond didn’t dry any stiffer, but was happy with the way it compressed to yield a board no thicker than the original, and it’s stiff enough and as you see, ramrod straight. I intend to paint the rest of the cardboard either with Titebond or with some other waterproof coating to enhance water resistance. Thompson’s waterseal does not dry adequately, so still looking for alternatives there. I have one more door to do, so if you undertake this job please let me know what you use!
  10. That may just be your IBS talking, but it’s a fair point. If I can win her over, I’ll get back to you on that.
  11. Good, though I think I should leave the baking to my more-talented spouse. Speaking of hard-to-find parts, please consider this a call-out for baker’s yeast. Ray, got any for sale?
  12. Speaking of balling up a thread... Blue cheese and apricots? Das sei kein Ganterbrau, men Freund. My first drive in a 2002 was a sprint in a roundie tii out of Freiburg across the Alps to Grenoble in ‘81. Thus began a love affair.... VicLeonardo, I am a few steps behind you installing my ICE Air unit — emptied the box yesterday onto shelves in the garage. It’s a car that never had A/C. Chargin’s very fine thread has been a big help, but all input welcome as I experiment with hole saws around brake lines. Meantime, so far the 123 has been everything promised performance-wise. Fjord’s lungs expanded substantially with that addition. But only a few hundred miles on it, so reading these threads with interest.
  13. Working on Fjord’s doors. Vibration dampening and sound reduction done, updated door stops and dome light switch installed, door latches and locks lubed with Liquid Wrench Lock & Hinge Dry Lube (appears to be an updated Teflon material), rattle-proofing grommets installed at lock and latch bars. Now to the soft stuff: the dreaded door cards. The issue? They’re not that bad. Definitely worth saving. BUT.... the lower corners have picked up enough water over the years that they have delaminated. You can riffle them between thumb and fingers like the pages of a phone book. But they’re intact, each sheet retains its individual integrity, and I think they can be relaminated and stiffened up, if I can find the right material(s) and technique (only get one shot, I suspect). I have reviewed all the threads I can find on door cards, including Simeon’s helpful blog, but this “relamination” doesn’t appear to be covered in any of them. Needless to add, I am open to ideas from the more experienced.
  14. I hear you. Good advice. Blunt doesn’t sell the seals alone. But I’ll ask Steve what material they use.
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