Stevenola

2 for me, 1 for my bro @0257

Are there any mods or hacks to replace this particular item? Does anyone have a used one for sale? This one is kinda toast! Thanks.

Great, thanks

Yep, another poor sod looking for this part, this one is rotted out, new or used, thanks.

I'll have to dig it up!

Howdy, I am looking to buy cylinder #1 Tii fuel line from Kugel to the injector for a '74, if you have that by itself, great, otherwise I'll go for the set of 4. #1 on this car has a dubious repair. Thanks.

DId you rename this thread? I've missed all the action here 🙂 The high advance from 500-800 is intended to help during warm up and prevent stalling without having to feather thr throttle as much. Your numbers are looking good, I wouldn't think a bigger accel pump jet would help with transition, theoretically it dumps fuel at wot but only when the pedal is initially pressed otherwise. They also say side drafts like to idle at 1000rpm, so I compromise and shoot for 950-975 for smooth idle, especially with a/c. The 123 will allow dialing that right in using advance instead of messing with the throttle plates. And using less of the mixture screw will help lean out your cruise. 13 afr around town is great. And ultimately do what feels best and don't obsess over the afr number (which I did for a year before letting go of my afr OCD), the AFR meter isn't the end all because it measures free oxygen, not really exact fuel/air ratio, so it's not 100% accurate. And at idle the inefficiency of the cylinder scavenging can allow an inaccurate reading. The afr readout will vary quite a lot depending on ambient temp and humidity even though no adjustments are made to the carbs to change real mixture. So a cool dry day will have a higher than average afr, and a hot humid day will have a lower than normal number. If you think it's running rich, check the plugs, if they look good then don't worry. Also the extra advance at idle will help keep your plugs cleaner. And sound - a lean acceleration sounds brittle and a rich one sounds flabby. You want the deep "howl" that resonates 😀

Thanks, I will check all of it out

Yes the mains will come in as airflow/load dictate, not necessarily rpm. Are you tuning idle rpm to the highest it will go with the mix screw or are you tuning for a target AFR? If so, what AFR does the engine like to idle at highest and smoothest?

I've read the various posts on how the little screw in the tuna can adjusts idle mixture (lean in, rich out), but if I turn the mix screw out to enrich, the idle drops as the butterfly closes, so in order to raise the idle back up you're supposed to turn in the idle screw on the side of the can, but isn't that just opening back up the butterlfy? I know it has something to do with the half moon cam but I still don't see how increasing one and decreasing the other back to same rpm affects idle AFR? I'll hook it to a gas analyzer at some point but I still need to grasp the concept first.

Right ok, what is your cruise AFR with the 55f2? Your throttle plates look a little more closed than "textbook" which they say should just uncover the first hole when the throttle is touched open. What is idle rpm if you adjust the idle screw to completely cover the first hole - no half moon? In doing so do you have to adjust the mix screw again to get smoothest idle?

What makes him think it's over jetted? What is in there now?

with the 55F8/9 have you tried pulling your main jet stacks and seeing how that affects the afr up to the point where it bogs craps out and if the mains are coming in too soon?

I use the Carter 4070 and it is low pressure/high voume. Just what side drafts need. Mount it low down by the diff and you won't have any vapor lock issues and it's pretty quiet too.

Not having your throttle plates closed over the progresson holes enough, as well as not all consistently, will make it difficult to get the right idle jet combo. If too much gas is slipping past the first hole at idle, then you'll tend to compensate by turning in the mix screw too much or putting in too small a jet in order to get it to idle smoothly in an acceptable range of 12-13 afr. Once the throttle plate moves then the physics of the # of progression holes and idle jet take over, so if those aren't right then you'll get transition issues. Viscious cycle. Try my 123/progression hole technique I messged you about a while ago. This will allow you to cover your holes more, bump the idle with more advance, and get the right jet. Helps with the dreaded off idle dead spots too.