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Einspritz

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About Einspritz

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  1. So,for future use, why not have the painter match the paint on the inner trunk lid? Usually they can use spray cards to do that. And with Inka being a single stage color, at least OE matching shouldn't be too much of a problem. I had a similar situation with my Taiga wherein the painter started spraying Sherwin Williams SINGLE Stage on the body (I had contracted for Glasurit two stage) before I got there to approve it and I had to stop him as it was so wrong; not just the color but the type of metal flake as well. I had to remove the car and then take it to a Glasurit shop where they matched the inside of the trunk and then resprayed the car. I was told at the time that the Taiga color coat was about 80% clear, but it has held up for over 25 years. That cost a bundle as not many shops want to fix another shops' mistrake. I suspect that when I have my Chamonix car resprayed, I will have to do it again as there seems to be several variants in that color too.
  2. You mean that my 7Up bottle with a coat hanger wrapped around the neck is obsolete? I hate when that happens.
  3. Been a few thousand years and never took out the tumblers in my cars. If it is like the E30, then there should be two screws on the back to remove the switch from the casing. Or you can test turning the switch w/o the battery hooked up, then try energized. I don't want to direct you to do that and burn something.....BTW I checked my manual and it doesn't show either way, but just the whole cast piece.
  4. Another thing I have always used is a one way valve between the nipple and the catch bottle (Lisle, plastic or Eastwood, a metal valve); or make sure that the tube is below the level of brake fluid in the bottle. In that way air can't be sucked up back into the caliper or wheel cylinder. I also use a pressure bleeder. In that way it is really rare that I need someone to pump the pedal.
  5. IIRC I use 1/8" ID silicone tubing that is stretchy and will fit tight.
  6. It depends on if you removed the switch from the lock and kept it attached to the wires before sending it to the locksmith. If so, then a screwdriver should do the trick. BTW there should be or should have been a sticker on the lock (Wxxxx) that will give the key code.
  7. So, for the future....... Regardless if you have the "regular" slave cylinder or if you have a 245 in the car, while the nipple points down the passage is drilled to the "top" of the slave cylinder, so make sure that it is oriented correctly. Sometimes, if there is air in the MC and system, you can put your pressure bleeder on the slave nipple and "backfill" to remove some of the air throughout the system. You will see air bubbles coming up into the resivour. That should give you enough fluid to then fill from the top with the pressure bleeder and bleed again from the bottom to complete. With a pressure bleeder you don't necessarily need to pump the pedal, but sometimes that action serves to dislodge air. And too, sometimes there is an air bubble in the hard line to the resivour that can be dislodged by tapping on the line.
  8. What is the condition of the arm itself and the bushings? If the arm is bent, or the bushings are shot (in all likelihood if you still have the riveted arms), you will need to replace them. Yours are about 50 years old, right?
  9. Shouldn't be a problem even at that temperature if the cooling system is working properly........perhaps up to 3/4 but not into the red. Heat soak; all cars do that...and that is why it is sometimes better to keep the engine running, even at a high idle (say 2000 RPM) to keep the coolant flowing. You can in a pinch turn on the heater with full fan to bring the temp down, but it will make you uncomfortable. Do you know what oil temperature you were at?
  10. Perhaps it is just leaking when the fuel system is energized, and you don't notice it during regular running but manifests problems upon hot start. An easy check by removal, energizing the fuel pump, and seeing if it leaks when hot. If not also check the temp / time switch (cold and hot) as the electronic box only serves to change the amount of time at those temperatures.
  11. If that is the article from Jim Rowe and Jim Blanton, I don't have that in electronic form to post. It has a few good nuggets, particularly noting that weak distributor springs (it advances too soon) can wreak havoc on the idle. I agree. It really does not address full throttle / full load settings, and I guess that is left up to relying on the pump being correct. The inference is that you set the idle and at 3000 RPM and that should be it. But that doesn't address the WOT setting. I advocate tuning first at WOT then mid-range, and the idle last. Perusing my notes, I see that a setting of 4.5% CO at idle is OK, so you don't have to try incessantly to get that leaner, though you can follow the "Jim's" direction to get close, or whatever setting works for your engine. Very much so. That is correct. Modern gas is not just gasoline any longer, there are Summer and Winter blends and the injection system is that sensitive. I noted a gas mileage change of about +/- 2 MPG and re-tune twice a year. Note that the Kugelfischer system runs on fuel density which is the amount of energy in any given amount of fuel. So that will change with the composition of the fuel. Also the system was designed for 100 Octane which is more dense and has a slower flame front. You will be amazed at how well (and fun) the engine runs on that fuel. It is THAT precise. Remember too that the throttle body will allow the maximum amount of air at anything above ~85% opening; the rest of WOT is additional fuel provided by the pump following the P4 curve. AND the nature of the plenum design allows for "sonic" tuning providing resonant air pressure above atmospheric pressure into the cylinders (15.5 psi vs. 14.5 psi) at about 4500 RPM. Try THAT with your dual sidedrafts. In researching (making) a wiring harness, I measured all of the wires and then calculated the loads vs. wire gauge vs. resistance and found the wire to the fuel pump was insufficient for the published requirements of the pump, particularly if it was a Turbo at WOT. Incidentally, the replacement pump from Bosch is technically insufficient too...... Perfect!
  12. I would suspect that the P1 settings are too rich at that RPM or timing is too advanced. Or both. Sometimes none :) That too, but it is rare; what is of more importance is the advance curve; too much advance may cause this, all other things being in specification. Use you new timing light and plot your curve; that should shed some light to begin with. I'll give some thought on how to get your AFR without a Lambda...... HTH
  13. I spent a lot of time on the phone with the owner of PMB regarding caliper rebuilding. It turns out that you do not need to sleeve the bore, just hone back the corrosion as the piston does not touch, or shouldn't touch the bore. the piston does need to be free of pits as that is what interfaces with the seals. I'll offer an alternative view: In the matter of the Volvo calipers, that is a rabbit hole of expense, as you then have to replace the hub, studs and rotor...an amalgam at best. BTDT with E21 (2002 Turbo) rear drums. Without a proportioning valve, the rears will lock up under severe braking. Stock 1600 drums would be even worse. And too, you would then have to shorten the brake line to the rear and have a new line from the MC to the proportioning valve. What needs to be assessed is the hydraulic pressure from the MC to the caliper piston(s) and the force applied to each pad and in concert to the selection of the drums' diameter and hydraulic cylinder to have a balance, which the stock system already has for the most part. The brake bias is about 70% front (at least on a 2002) with the remaining to the rear.....AND the stock systems account for 4 persons in the car with a full tank of gas and a loaded trunk. So, if you change the fore - aft bias, the rears are more apt to lock regardless of the friction material. I don't recall if the 1600 front strut mountings are the same as a 2002 or Tii and if you can install different calipers (e.g. 2002, 2002 Tii, 2002 Turbo (CS coupe) calipers) but that is something to consider in your costs. What HAS changed from 1967 is the variety of friction material and the grippiness of tires. OE Jurid and Textar is about 0.25-0.35 Mu. By simply changing the friction material of the pads and shoes you can improve the braking by a significant amount. You then retain the bias fore-aft and the integrity of your original system. with regard to single piston calipers, I'll use my M3 as an example. Single piston, stock brake calipers, proportioning valve to the rear. Engineering analysis showed that the bias to the rear was not enough. I removed the valve and the bias came closer in accordance to the weight balance of the car. I then chose pad material with a high Mu value (0.5 Mu initially) and low initiation temperature (100 Deg. F) so that I can be in traffic and stop in short order if need be. The tires are also significant in being "Summer only". The effect is between 1.2-1.4 G in hard braking before the ABS kicks in and that's enough for me. No 6 piston monster calipers needed. "Stock" Jurid pads and non-Summer tires only generated about 0.9G before the ABS kicked in. I am not sure about availability in Europe for friction material, but visit this company: https://www.porterfield-brakes.com If they don't have your shape, they will make them for you. Most friction material providers won't tell you the Mu values (Porterfield does) and that makes it difficult to make a choice. Just because they say theirs is the best, doesn't mean it is so for your situation. Show me the engineering facts to support any claims. As far as W&N's price, that is about what you would pay for a proper rebuild of your calipers. HTH
  14. If you are in the U.S. I recommend http://pmbperformance.com/ in Salt Lake City. I have used them several times and am happy with the results. They have both exchange and or will rebuild your calipers so you can keep specific originality.
  15. Either or both. Is it backfiring out the tailpipe or into the intake? The maximum amount of advance for a Tii should be no more than 34 Degrees with 9.5:1 compression ratio, 32-33 Deg if you have higher CR and / or if you have a lot of carbon build up. Idle advance should not exceed 0-4 Deg. Old or tired distributors may advance too quickly causing havoc on your tuning for a stable idle. Check if you can, the advance curve with an adjustable timing light at 0 Deg @ TDC. (Engine off) Then start the engine and record the timing in 500 RPM increments up to 3500 RPM. The advance should not exceed the values set forth in the manual. Dwell set at 62 Deg, which will allow for some variance +-2 Deg. in old or sloppy distributors. If that is correct, then your issue is not timing. Be aware that too much advance will cause detonation and is not productive across the rev. range.. Do you have a Lambda sensor to observe the mixture as you drive? WOT, full throttle / full load should be set about 12.6 AFR for maximum power, even with today's gas. More fuel is not better. THEN observe your partial throttle mixtures and if you can, the mixture when you let off the throttle at high RPM. It should go very lean for a moment and then recover when the RPMs reduce to say, between 3000-4000 RPMs. The P1 pump curve allows for the increase of fuel below that range when the throttle is closed & high RPM, such as when you shift depending on what RPMs you shift at. If you have had your injection pump rebuilt, this setting may not be correct and may be one cause of your issue. So go through my directions above and reset the mixtures the best you can, Check again for any vacuum leaks at the plenum and WUR (it is possible to "tune around" a constant WUR leak, but check the hose to the plenum for cracks); I use a spray of brake cleen (the non-California version 1-1-1 Trichloroethylene) which will indicate a leak by the engine stumbling (and not revving up). Then see if it backfires. Report back so we can see the progression. Another thing; I have found that the wire to the electric fuel pump was designed insufficiently (about 12%) and with 40 years of age, really insufficient. Replace that wire with 12Ga. or even 10Ga. to eliminate the line resistance and insure the specified output of the fuel pump. HTH


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