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About Einspritz

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  1. Years ago, I bought the one from COSTCO, which has a small OD end, extensions for up to 6', a removable display that can record pictures and video, and a handy carrying case. 90 Deg mirror, but beware of inserting that in the cylinder as it may come off. I know that. I bought it to check the timing chain rails' wear on an S14 and to verify the use of injector / cylinder de-carbonizers. Be sure that the light has enough illumination so that you can see dark things in dark places, and the resolution is refined enough. Some things are better left unseen. IIRC I paid less than $150.
  2. Doesn't the diagram show the upper bolt mount is adjustable fore / aft so the link is straight?
  3. If you have a stock non-Tii 2002, this is about the best you can get.......I'll leave it up to you to choose your need: https://www.porterfield-brakes.com/Products/?YearSelected=1974&ModelSelected=2002&MakeSelected=BMW&selectManufacturer=All%20Manufacturers
  4. Not necessarily. It depends on the friction coefficient at any one temperature, not whether it is "organic" or Ceramic. Long mountain roads generally will heat up the brakes after repeated use; and depending on whether you have solid or vented rotors in the front or ducting or large spoked rims that serve to reject the heat generated by the clamping force of the pads against the rotors. See the graphs: I use Hawk HP+ (green) pads on some cars because it gets a Mu of 0.5 at 100 Deg. F. and increases up until 800 Deg. F. In my M3, I get a deceleration rate of up to 1.4 G, but that is with decent sticky tires. With this setup, if I need to panic stop, I need to make sure no one is following close behind. On mountain roads, which I frequent in the Summer, I have never had fade with repeated braking from elevated speeds. Here is where I advocate spending the money for good quality brakes and tires, if only as a safety measure. Don't be cheap here.
  5. Slavs; Well, yes, it is about heat, but more about the Mu curves, which are the plot of the friction coefficient vs. temperature. I guarantee you will never see a comparison in popular street pads. The temperature at which the pad or shoe initially "gets its bite" and to the point where it has maximum friction determines what you perceive as stopping much better. Some pads and shoes obtain that @100 Deg. F, others at say 250-350 Deg. F. The higher the temperature, the more latency there will be until the pads and shoes heat up.
  6. Or buy a 17mm x 3/8" or 1/2" hex socket with a breaker bar........extra credit for the special Hazet tool..... You can also replace them with the "old style" plugs wherein you use a wrench.....an "outie" if you will.....
  7. Try the supporters of the FAQ, but get at least one aftermarket plug with a magnet in it.
  8. Front transmission seal? Smell the oil......
  9. Do you monitor your oil temperature, and if so, what is it at that point?
  10. I'm out as the '74 had the 4 slot bracket for the 3 relays; unless your '73 has that too......
  11. Consider incorporating the (Bosch) relays with the spade fuse already on it.
  12. Do you want just the harness or the placement in the car? I have a '74 Euro and can take a picture tomorrow. Let me know.
  13. What # pressure cap are you running? Are you SURE it is functioning correctly? A cap with a pressure that is lower than specified will boil over at a lower temperature relative to one that is of higher pressure. I say this as the cap on the E30 M3 has a higher pressure AND a separate seal on the top of the tank. BMW chose to "supersede" the OE cap with one that does not have that top seal, allowing the system to boil over when it comes to temp. The solution is to buy an aftermarket cap (even a cheepie) of the same pressure (~22 psi) but has that top seal allowing the system to operate correctly. The '02 only has one seal but it is imperative that the limiting pressure is correct. My opinion is that you are running a bit hot, but that could be a thermostat that needs to be checked (you didn't gut it did you?) an incorrect sensor, gauge, or even funky and corroded wiring; more likely that you need to really flush the system of corrosion and put n the 50%-50% mix of coolant. +1 But that is rare.
  14. I have three of these. You would have to plug the rear fitment....and remove the air tubes if you want.
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