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Einspritz last won the day on October 15 2018

Einspritz had the most liked content!

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    2002 Tii, 2002 Turbo

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  1. The Kugelfischer pump is calibrated "as stock", for the early '72 versions, which means that ALL the curves, P1,P2,P3,P4 are within specification. The pump is capable of handling more fuel than needed for stock, and as such, the curves can be moved richer / leaner over all the curves, by the user ("The Screw"). There are other adjustments that can be made by a competent re-builder as well. 1974 US engines, of course, had different fuel cones and thus curves for emissions purposes. That may or may not work with a 300 Deg. cam. Your pump re-builder / calibrator may vary. Regardless the tuning is NEVER plug-n'-play, so adjustments are necessary for your type of fuel, E12 head,cams, etc and should be taken in account when the pump is serviced. There is Math involved, so planning is key. As far as my '72 spec Tii (with plastic runners built by Franz Fechner and Dave Cruz), I have no idea as to the Hp, but can say it was a wise choice to gain Hp over the 2 bbl. Weber and header / non-SMOG compliant engine done in the previous restoration. My goal was better performance and economy without going wild, able to meet CA SMOG laws, so that choice met it in spades. I also changed the differential ratio to the "Euro" 3.45:1 and the engine runs at 4000 rpm @ 80 Mph, the sweet spot in efficiency for any stock cammmed engine, always returning better than 30 Mpg, so that worked for me with mostly highway driving. IIRC the carburetted engine never returned more than 25 MPG. But I digress. I have driven another Tii at the track that was "Alpina spec" with the cams, compression, slide throttle, etc. but the pump cone was not Alpina. What a hoot! ......and a whole different driving experience from a stock Tii and turbo. Very responsive when you accelerated and then came up on the cam. So, to the discussion here, sure go for it, but with sufficient planning. HTH
  2. Nicely presented, low mileage car. Nice documentation, with original sales brochure. Proper Tectyl sticker, but the Tectyl has been removed; why would they not like that? :) ....and what is the blue steering wheel thing in the documentation? Hope it does well. Lots of reference pictures!
  3. Well, yes in a way, that is the most accurate, using measurements for each degree of crank/cam movement. But for comparison, where you don't want to bore out the head journals for the 300 Deg. cam to get those measurements (unless someone else has done it) , you can take the lobe measurements throughout the rotation, and then use the rocker ratio to calculate the final results at the valve. That said, it will be a little off since the tangential point of the rocker follower vs. the cam lobe will change that a little bit, but fine for comparative purposes. In the S14 world, I have a device that bolts to the head and has two "dial" indicators that track the valve movements directly, so all you have to do is attach a degree wheel to the crank, turn said crank, and get direct measurements. As far as fitment of a high lift cam, DCOEs, etc. I think that you may be leaving some performance on the table with 9.3:1 pistons, even with today's gas. I have 9.6:1 pistons in my Tii; stock cam, E12, everything else "stock", (OK not really) but use the J&S along with a Lambda sensor to monitor AFR in real time. Had I known of the J&S at the time, I would have gone to 10:1 CR, which would have had better performance with 100 Octane, but no detriment with pump gas. When I worked at a BMW shop, we routinely installed 10:1 pistons, in systems that you propose, but gas was different then. In changing the cam and increasing the compression to 10:1 (or even 9.3:1) it is really advisable to use a knock sensor system (J&S) that will take care of knock despite a more aggressive advance curve, compression, deficient gasoline, etc. Did I mention that gas is different today? Digressing a bit, with the cam/valve measurements, along with the head chamber volume, cylinder volumes, the CR, etc. you can calculate the trapped compression ratio, the BMEP (brake mean effective pressure) to ascertain your comparative performance(s), and calculate the knock frequencies, primary, secondary, and tertiary. You can also see how much the effects of valve overlap (or lack thereof) with respect to exhaust gas reversion has on your performance. Nifty for comparison purposes. It is important to note that "plug-n-play" of each of the elements, pistons, cam, head, carbs, distributor, etc.doesn't always work harmoniously. This is a system of elements that should be designed to work together to achieve the best performance possible; otherwise one deficient element (from air box to primary pipe) in relation to the others will hinder all. In any event, if you are going for the full Alpina reproduction, you may consider reshaping the combustion chamber in the head by machining a domed combustion chamber as some Alpina heads (and those with the 300 Deg. big journal cams) to accommodate the higher pop-up pistons......that shape is similar to the 2002 Turbo, BTW. Just something for your consideration. YMMV. Either way, enjoy the fruits of your labor, the engine will be fun.
  4. I would think that you really need a cam doctor readout to compare.......not just lift and duration.........you are looking for the area under the curve (and then calculating volume of air movement) for each instance of valve movement.
  5. You can use the Pirelli elastic straps and either use the hooks or rivet them in sandwiching the ends between two sheet metal plates. Others have used a full elastic that covers the whole opening, but that is too stiff for me. The seat cushion is similar to the E30 sport seats. Firm. For me, the seat cushion sitting proud as in the photo defeats the purpose of the bolstering effect of a sport seat. I would rather sit in the seat than on the seat, and well, because I can. And I like the lower sitting position as I can see out better, but you can make standoffs to raise the whole seat if that is your thing. Your "wideness" may vary.
  6. Try to find the Mu curves for each of your choices, then compare the friction coefficient vs. temperature. "Race compounds " such as Hawk HP+ have a Mu of about 0.5 at 100 deg. F.Others come on at a much higher temp, hence the Squealing. But you really should balance the system with an appropriate rear shoe friction material depending on the weight balance of the car and the forces of your particular hydrolic system. There be Math involved. Porterfield R4S is a nice start.
  7. 3 watts of power will always beat your wimpy 1/2 watt phone in the hinterlands..........
  8. I have ~95mm from the lip of the grill to the center of the bolt hole. But I think it's necessary to match it up with the notches in the fender flare. YMMV
  9. or check to see if one for a '74 ford Pinto will work. the one way valve on the metal line to around the back of the head is for a pinto and/or generic. You will probably have to replace that too. Take the pump apart and see if you can free up the vanes and bearings. Alternatively, you can gut the pump and put a dime(?) at the fitment on the exhaust manifold to pass a visual. Getting it to comply at the tailpipe is another matter. HTH
  10. A very large flat blade screwdriver or a chisel works well to slightly spread the piece, tap it in with a hammer; but remember that it is cast and can crack or break if you do too much.
  11. It appears that the red surround goes through from the front, and then the glass from the back. The lock ring from the back holds the glass and tabs from the red surround. Then the gauge is placed from the back, as normal.
  12. Easy Pay @ $97.00 per Month for 24 Months. How good is that?
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