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dlacey

Turbo
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Everything posted by dlacey

  1. Its that big flat disc in the photos earlier in this thread... it pushes down and actuates the enrichment lever on the back of the KF pump.
  2. Sorry to differ, but No i dont think this marginal fuel pressure would give those symptoms....I am sure that under full power condition this ~60% low pressure will cause misfiring and over-lean running...but at idle and dying after rev does not sound like a KF fuel supply issue. It could well be a KF adjustment issue, but i doubt its incoming fuel pressure if its still 20psi+.
  3. Yes agree you can switch the pipe connections within the group of outlets at the end OR the group at the middle of the m/cyl. But concerning original outlet No3, there should be a residual pressure valve (RPV) on that outlet, and that RPV is required for the hydraulic line that goes to the rear brakes. I think it's possible to swap the RPV to whatever outlet you choose to use. Maybe the RPV depends on year? That diagram you show has pressure limiting valves shown instead... I guess that did same job on later cars?
  4. Picking-up on @Son of Marty's point: it looks like your fuel supply is plumbed the wrong way? i see something that could be the fuel return line plumbed to the front of the KF pump and the filter may be in the feed line but plumbed to the back of the pump? If its like that it won't work properly because the back of the pump has a one-way pressure-relief valve... The brake binding problem is probably a booster/servo related hydraulic issue... maybe the booster is stuck in some way causing a vacuum leak thats affecting engine running?
  5. This looks like the standard tii fuel pump setup but the pump itself is a later style Bosch replacement. The later pumps aren't all the same size, so it seems somebody got creative to secure it under there. The noise you hear could well be because the pump or output piping has shifted so it's touching the body. Originally that fuel pump bracket is on rubber isolators to keep the noise down.
  6. Originals are now close to unobtainiun: AIR FILTER ELEMENT BMW E10 2002 TURBO - 13721259538 WWW.EBAY.COM Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for AIR FILTER ELEMENT BMW E10 2002 TURBO -...
  7. Theres an unused connector in the wiring loom on the left front of the engine bay, by the Alternator Voltage Regulator... you can plug your driving light 'signal' wire (86 on the relay) into this wiring loom plug and get the driving lights and hi beams to work together. (no need to pull wire thru to the dash)
  8. You could use published fuel economy data in contemporary road test to estimate based on this type of data:
  9. Yes thats a Diode... an LED is also a diode BUT many LEDs have protection from electrostatic-discharge built-in... that protection means they don't behave as a diode..and can even appear 'dead-short' in reverse bias (that could burn the track on your PCB before the LED burns out). So that diode soldered on the board is possibly a PO attempt to provide protection for reverse-biased LEDs (the bulb fitting can be fitted two ways.. OK for a filament lamp, not good for LEDs)
  10. Here's the screw/stop on my car: You can see the yellowish colour stop just below the hose clamp. And here you can see the end of the screw with locknut...and the stop at the centre of the pic (ignore the hose clamp at the top of the pic). When warmed-up that screw moves down to touch the stop...if it doesn't move down then the Warm Up unit or mechanism is faulty. That will cause high idle and over-rich mixture.
  11. Follow Jim & Byron's advice above, and if that most likely cause is eliminated, second area of risk - especially after standing for some time - could be a brake booster air leak...disconnect/plug the pipe to the plenum to see if this is your cause. If yes then maybe the booster will "fix itself" with some heat/cool cycles (that's my experience anyway).
  12. Assuming nothing is seized, this is a 2hour job, maximum.
  13. Here's another data point.. original steel fuel line on a '73 tii Crusty and flared 🙂
  14. Bad earth? Check body connection points.. after a slow crank start carefully touch all the major positive and negative cable connections...the hot one is the bad one.
  15. To eliminate rear brake adjustment as a factor, pull the hand/Ebrake on till the brakes just drag... now if the pedal travel has improved then the issue is the rear brake adjustment and residual pressure valve.... if it makes no difference then...dunno... check if front brake calipers are fitted right way up??
  16. On the >73 cars the headlamps are wired in a clever way so that dip & full beam cannot be turned-on together. As I recall, the full beam relay is earthed thru the dipped beam bulb filament... If that filament is energised then there's no earth and the full beam relay won't operate...if dipbeam is un-energised, the resistance of the filament is low enough to provide earth path for the relay (hi beam relay works)...smart. But when we replace the resistive bulb filament with an LED bulb system, this "secondary function" of the dipped beam bulb to act as the earth for the full beam relay doesn't work. This may be your issue?
  17. https://www.terhechte-edv.de/bmw/2002Turbo.mp4
  18. as seen before, but still elegant! using this kit: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/226555-02-auto-trunk-opener-kit-pre-production-reservation/
  19. You can use a digital meter, but its high impedance (and relatively slow response time) can cause some confusion when we are looking for pulsed voltages and stray leakages... the simple lightbulb [with a couple of wires soldered to it] is a useful glovebox diagnostic tool, its low resistance/impedance creates a real load on the circuit under test and its easy to see it flashing when cranking the engine. anyway, in your pic there seems to be a white plastic connecter sheath still plugged-in to coil -ve? If so, unplug that, so that the only thing on coil -ve is your DigitalMeter. Then connect the other DigitalMeter cable to the 123ign signal wire, dont connect any of the other black wires from the original BMW loom... Just Coil -ve to DigitalMeter to 123ign wire. Select the 10A DC range on your DigitalMeter & plug red cable into 10A socket on DigitalMeter. Now crank the engine over and you should see the meter 'flicker' & show some current in the few amp range for a transient moment as engine turns... if it does that then 123ign is good. If it just shows zero then i would really go find a 12V lamp and repeat with that in-place of the DigitalMeter before condemning the 123ign. Once done, remember to switch your digital meter back to voltage range and plug the red cable into the right socket (easy to forget..)
  20. Get back to basics: 1) Establish that the coil works - use a 12V lamp, like a 1156, (not a DVM) to check there is 12V on coil+ve when ignition is on. Pull all wires from coil -ve , using same lamp check the lamp will light when connected Coil -ve to earth. If the lamp lights then coil low tension is 'working'. Now connect an HT lead to coil hi tension , other end to a spark plug with plug body earthed. Now, use a piece of wire to temporarily earth coil -ve... at the moment you remove this wire from coil -ve, there should be a HT spark at sparkplug. If yes, then coil HT and 12V supply confirmed good. 2) Now connect the 123 back to the coil but with the 12V lamp in series between the 123 and coil -ve. As you crank the engine, the lamp should flash (turning ON when coil is charging). If it doesnt flash then 123 is suspect... clean & check its 12V and ground connections... try again...if still no flash then 123 is dead. If it flashes OK then remove lamp and connect 123 to coil -ve... cranking must now create regular sparks at your spark plug. 3) Pull off the ht lead and connect King Lead and plug leads to dizzy cap, connect spark plug to No1 HT lead (body earthed). Crank engine... if you get sparks then ignition is OK, only timing can be at fault. If you dont get sparks then suspect Rotor Arm, Leads, Cap.
  21. A UK-based Triumph car club, that I am a member of, is facing similar challenges... declining membership, less event participation etc. They identify factors such as car values, which drive the cars out-of-reach of younger prospective members, and a simple lack of interest in cars of the 1960s/70s by the Gen Z group. The proud Triumph club is debating merger with the MG club to try to maintain critical mass.... In my experience, the social engagement and activity of a Model/Brand car club is inversely proportional to the value of those Cars... the Rolls Royce club being far less engaging than the Morris Minor club. So, the '02 values that we celebrate might be slowly suffocating the community.... What to do? 1) Globalise - launch '02FAQ in various languages: Spanish, German, Thai etc 2) Consolidate - merge various global '02 websites into one central go-to place 3) Expand - Integrate with E9/E12/E21/E30 sites... or at least actively coordinate with them.
  22. Only problem is that the incandescent still occupies the 'focal point' where the light source should be. The 02 light units expect the light source to emit in 'all directions' and use basic reflectors and plastic micro-lenses to 'fill' the lamp equally with light. If you put your (rather directional) LEDs in some other location the light will 'miss' the reflector and you'll have a bright spot inside the lamp. Of course you can carefully plan placement of your LEDs to minimise that problem. Use LEDs the same colour as the lens if possible (otherwise much of your wrong-colour light is wasted). LEDs generally turn-on at 3V and very bright by 4 V, they get ~exponentially brighter with increasing voltage...so by 5V they are crazy bright and will overheat/die. So 3 LEDs in series should be bright at 12v and too bright at 13.8v... 4 LEDs in series will be bright at 13.8V but a bit dim at 12V... thats why most LED systems include some 'driver' or series resistor.... Maybe, putting 2 LEDs is series with a 6V lamp would work??
  23. Unfortunately Hagerty doesnt exist here: The Amazon CloudFront distribution is configured to block access from your country.
  24. Yes, you can do it that way, if the grub screw is not rotated in a way to be accessible, you can use the 2 flats on the top of the threaded rod to rotate the rod & cone until the grub screw is in view.
  25. It looks like it needs to be re-set, seems the actuator is working OK, just needs calibration.. The centre picture, "full temp', shows the top hat washer still in contact with the enrichment arm, if the verboten screw is not hitting it's stop under these conditions then your full throttle mixture may be too rich. In the last pic, the height of the cone looks as it should be at 30C/86F... dunno what temp you were actually at when that pic was taken. The WUR calibration procedure is in this article:
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