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Everything posted by dlacey

  1. Lubricate the pins with some dish soap and shove them in with a piece wood....don't wield a hammer close to the paint
  2. Just discovered pics of my first '02, a 1973 Inka 2002, registered SNK500M. It had been abandoned for many years when a friend gave it to me in ~1993. We got it running, freed-off the brakes and got it back on the road... i drove it in this scabby condition for a while. I dealt with the rust and gave it a new coat of Inka, then drove it around europe for a few years. I sold it ~2000 for a few hundred quid in a running-well-but-rusty condition. There's some info about SNK500M on UK's DVLA website: Seems it was last heard of in late 2000..... 😞
  3. To be clear this is Not a turbo but a rather crusty '73 tii.... But roofs is roofs I guess. Unrestored crusty original condition.
  4. I have a 1973 tii with factory electric sunroof in original unrestored condition, that switch looks slightly different to mine. Also mine has a full-width zipper in the headlining which, when opened reveals a two-piece hardboard cover for the mechanism. There is a large flat-blade screwdriver slot that enables manual operation of the roof (where the handle normally pivots on the manual roof ). They obviously didnt judge the electric system as that reliable..... The motor itself is a bosch part, designed to be safely 'stallable'...it drives the roof through a 90 degree rubber 'universal joint' (for space reasons, motor is mounted perpendicular to where drive is needed). The switch just runs the motor until the roof hits some mechanical limit & stalls the motor....same like you wind the manual handle until it wont go any further. I will add a pic once it gets light outside...
  5. Certain models are more susceptible, its in their DNA. Its not clear how transmissible it is & the vaccine trials have had mixed results, the only known cure is surgical...
  6. It's a simple boost retard scheme, but maybe you could be more gradual in the onset above 100KPa. Byron's suggested settings are more gradual as attached PreyupySuggested02turboSettings.123
  7. I tried to translate Byron's program into the same table format: I think it's clear that our engines benefit from much more creative use of the 123's capabilities and that the original factory Bosch distributor was some compromise given available technology in early '70s.
  8. Hey Greg, Yes a gradual boost retard is what modern turbos use. The original bosch distributor has a vacuum retard capsule - I was confused about this earlier in this thread...I assumed it provided boost retard...but when I went and tested my original dizzy (and confirmed the wording on @Einspritz's graph) that capsule retards the distributor only when vaccum applied....under boost conditions it doesnt do anything - so thats why I say BMW didnt 'intend' to have boost retard - because the distributor doesnt have that capability. I will try again with the 123 to mimic the factory curve and see what effect that has under boost condition....from the way I read the graph the 123 will retard the ignition in one step 0 deg to -10 deg as the manifold pressure swings positive (more than 100KPa). The Bosch unit back in the day did not do that...but its arguably slightly better that the 123 does as we believe boost retard is good. Our situation is a little different to comparisons with other turbo installs because, at 6.9:1 compression ratio, our manifold vacuum is much less than a tii or most other turbo engines - I dont understand what impact that has on ideal ignistion timing.
  9. One Point I need to correct, I cannot mimic the factory curve with the 123ignition... Heres the best I could do: The limitation is that you can only program vacuum advance and boost retard...you cannot program vacuum retard and boost advance. The only option you have is to use the MAP 'starts @' command to only retard at higher revs (I dont know if this works in practice, but thats what 123ignition says to do) Above is how 123ignition tell you to do it... combined with a -10degree static mechanical advance. That effectively shifts the above curve down the graph by 10 degrees.... This MAP curve certainly creates the impression of vacuum retard below 100KPa, but the step change at 100KPa means the whole of the boost regime is retarded 10 degrees (maybe not the whole, maybe all above 1500rpm, but thats likely an academic difference)...and thats different from what BMW/Bosch intended... I dont yet see how to address that properly with 123ignition. Of course, as in my previous message, 123ignition still great for a more modern/creative advance curve of a compelxity that Bosch couldnt do back in 1974.
  10. Attached the spreadsheet...please feel free to check my calcs.. IgnitionTimingMaps.xlsx
  11. Hey All, I am trying to compare the different info on ignition tining for the 02 turbo and present it in a way to both visualise it and have the figures to program a 123ignition replacement dizzy. Just like the original Bosch JFUD4, with the 123 you can program the engine speed and manifold pressure dimensions (Yellow horizontal line is ignition timing @engine revs, yellow vertical column is ignition timing @ Manifold Absolute pressure). I colour coded the map per the key at the bottom just to aid comparisons ( and make it more similar to those flashy megasquirt maps). After converting pressure units and standardising rev increments I get these- Factory 0-231-180-14: To create a similar map with the 123 ignition you have to add a mechanical 'fudge factor' because the software doesnt normally allow vacuum retard...instead you program pressure advance and then shift the graph by physically setting the dizzy at -10degrees static (meaning 123 green light on at static -10 instead of static 0). [In fact on the KPa chart you must pass through 0,0 so in the actual program you need to program KPa/DEG: 65/10, 99/10, 0/0,] Result for 123ignition looks like this: (This table is NOT programmable in 123, boost advance not allowed) Earlier, in this thread Ted @Einspritz gave us his measured values, which i tried to translate: Also @S14SEAN shared a megasquirt map off a turbo'ed 320i , i translated this to same format: Of course its not quite the same, as those Megasquirt guys have the freedom to program every cell in the table, here I took the MAP curve at 1000rpm and the Advance curce at 100KPa to build the table. This looks much more like the modern turbo maps i see on the megasquirt forums for all sorts of injected turbos. For reference, a basic (non-turbo) factory 2002tii map looks like this: its got limited mechanical advance only, no manifold pressure dimension. First, I fitted the 123ignition to my standard 1973 2002tii...since the 123 has a MAP input I connected this to the ~ported vaccum connection that normally bleeds from the crankcase breather line...after experimenting with driving in hot conditions around Penang island on 97RON (no ethanol) fuel i got these settings to give best power with no pre-ignition: To be clear, here the 123 is fitted 'by the book' (meaning 123 green light on at static 0). Then I transplanted the 123 distributor onto to my turbo, also green light on at static 0, and added some boost retard (roughly 1 degree retard every 2 psi)... my injection system is a BMW standard freshly calibrated Lucas Developments turbo pump, my turbo a modern Garret TA34 (which is too big and over-boosts). So far i am pleased with the results...I expected the extra retard to help with over-boost conditions caused by having the 'wrong turbo' (and it does, a lot), but I also find the car much more progressive as the boost comes-in compared to my Bosch 0-231-180-14 or the 123 programmed & mechanically set to mimic the factory curve as best it can. Still learning, but I would say that our turbos are not that different from many more modern setups (despite low Compression Ratio) and benefit from more advance off-boost plus boost retard. Ignore the tables below..they are duplicates I cant remove...
  12. Is the fan really broken? They are an asymetric design, it's like a 7 blade fan with 2 blades missing....thats how it's meant to be. On an 02 there is no rad overflow bottle, the pipe from the rad cap runs down the side of the rad and dumps water on the floor.
  13. Thats the issue: they look OK from the outside, but the inside is swollen/constricted so they either dont pass any fluid or act as some one-way valve causing brakes to drag. If they are of unknown age, then replace... they are a common metric hose, sames as other european cars of the period (VW, Volvo, BMW etc)
  14. I have probably got an RHD part I can send over (just postage costs)...but only black/blue...dont think I have Tan
  15. I tried it: I could only get it to work by rigging up a simple HT circuit with a coil and a sparkplug in addition to spinning the dizzy. I tried a low ohm resistor instead of the coil connected to the dizzy terminal (so tach would see some 12V on-off square wave), but that didnt work.
  16. Maybe you could test the tacho by using your trusty drill to spin a spare distributor and use the dizzy points to drive the tach?
  17. Although its likely not a problem this time of year, connecting the outlet and inlet on the block 'unrestricted' will 'short circuit' the radiator and can cause the car to overheat or run hotter. The water in that heater circuit is deliberately circulating a short loop through the head and through the pump only so that the heater works as early as possible on warm-up. In the summer, that water in the short circuit loop never goes to the radiator, so you can get a situation where the head is close to boiling and the rad is sitting at 70C. Blocking the outlet and inlet is same as having heater valve closed... Here in Asia I don't like to have blocked pipe 'dead ends' so I use a 'short circuit' pipe but I stuff a short length of small bore rubber pipe inside the short circuit hose to act a restrictor and force most of the water to take the radiator route. This works - can easily see the difference on the temp gauge.
  18. Ignition timing too far advanced.
  19. Hey Epic, yes the left door armrest is a mirror-image of the RH door on RHD cars only, for LHD the Left Hand armrest is a shorter flat shelf with the handle portion integrated, the RH door is same worldwide LHD/RHD.
  20. Yes those pads top & bottom can increase ride height. No need to go urethane, the original rubber ones seem indestructible.
  21. apart from a quick suck & blow to check it doesnt leak, i dont think much else can be done...unless you have a friend with one of thos SUN distributor testers....
  22. They did a lot more in depth restoration than a normal ukWD episode... Ari Vatanen drifting a freshly-restored turbo is worth seeing @50 mins.
  23. Connect a 12V bulb between coil + and coil -. The bulb should flash on & off as you crank the engine. If it does then your problem is the high tension circuit [bad coil, bad HT lead, Bad rotor, Bad cap,Bad Spark Plug]. If it doesn't flash then your problem is low tension circuit [ bad coil primary, bad earth, bad points, bad wiring, bad +12V supply]. https://www.gasenginemagazine.com/gas-engines/understanding-breaker-point-ignition-systems
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