• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

34 Excellent

About DaHose

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location Napa, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,196 profile views
  1. If you aren't concerned with originality, you might also consider using the braided type of wire wrap/sleeving. I am thinking of using the fabric tape to re-wrap all the wires of the original harness. I will also add some extra wiring for AV equipment including a rear-view camera. All the non-OEM wires will be encased along with the bundle inside the braided loom. That way, I can tell which are the extra wires I have added at a glance, and I can easily add new wires into the bundle. That should make any future troubleshooting, or upgrading easier. Jose
  2. DaHose

    Sandblasting rear trailing arms

    I bet rubber stoppers with a bolt squeezing them in would work great too. Jose
  3. I am a fan of shroudless pusher fans when possible. They work awesome, the motor gets exposed to less heat, and more open space behind the radiator helps cooling. Jose
  4. That's a good link to keep in this thread, preyupy. I am hoping I can source a disk for my rear VW caliper upgrade, that won't require grinding the hub. Ideally I can identify what I need, then have my local O'Reilly store order the disk, and test it on my hub. Adjusting with the bracket is easy since it's just a flat plate. For the front, I am not committed to the caliper yet, so as long as the disk fits the hub/wheel combo, I am flexible on caliper placement and sizing. Hopefully I can find an easily available/replaceable for both front and back, but I will keep Coleman in mind if it doesn't work out. Jose
  5. Hey Simeon, Yeah, it was indeed a big task. It's a really good thing I'm an IT guy who works with data conversions, or it would not have happened. I tracked down an AC Delco chart too, but it's out of Australia. I haven't finished data cleanup on that one yet. Jose
  6. There is a resource I have spent the last several months trying to pin down, and finally got it. I am so happy, I just have to share it. Many of us want to do some kind of conversion/upgrade to our cars, and chief among them is a brake upgrade. That could involve several tried and true methods that are documented in various threads in this web site. However, if you want to try something other than what has been done, I haven't seen anyone put together a resource which gives dimensions of what possible options might exist in the world for us to work with. Everything out there is a trial-and-error report of someone's practical experience trying out something they thought might work. What I think we all could use is a comprehensive catalog of not just of what size disk our car uses, but what other cars might use that same size disk, and what other cars have disks that could be good candidates for us to experiment with. To that end, below is a link to an Excel spreadsheet I built using information I sourced from Bendix. Bendix Brake Disk Specifications and Application Chart - 2017 In the chart you will find a listing of EVERY disk Bendix makes. Not only are they listed by what car they go on, but putting it into an Excel format lets you filter it so that you can track down what you want. If you know any hot rodders, they will likely find this list to be a godsend. Need a disk to fit an application? Go to the chart and filter it by bolt pattern, disk OD, and offset. You will see EXACTLY what model Bendix makes to fit the bill, and you can see what car it comes on. Then you can either order the Bendix disk by number, or whatever brand you prefer by vehicle application.😎 Jose
  7. DaHose

    Rear Disc Brake Conversion

    If I recall correctly, you do need to make a change when going to disks in the rear. Two options I recall are to either go with a proportioning valve, or changing out to an E21 master cylinder. Harking back to the Saturn SC-1 vented front disks, I like the idea of buying them, and turning down the OD to the same as the E21 disks, or whatever fits your chosen wheels, except they are vented. I did some digging and found that SL-1 rear disks have the right bolt patter, and are actually 245mm. That is 6mm bigger than the VW disks. I wonder if they would fit without grinding the rear hubs? If so, then you would just need a different mounting bracket. I think I need to get me a rear disk and VW caliper to experiment with once I remove my rear subframe. Jose
  8. DaHose

    sweet exhaust note

    Depending on what you are looking for, consider a Moroso spiral flow, or a Flowmaster DBX series muffler. A straight through will be painfully loud, but nice and deep. The DBX is a compromise that cuts about 7 dB off compared to a straight muffler. Put the spiral flow inline, and you cut another 9 dB. That is the combination I have on my M6 and it sounds friggin great! Jose
  9. DaHose

    I bought a car lift!!

    Hey everyone, Today I added a little upgrade to my lift. I can easily disconnect the safety lock cable and stow it away with the lift, but being unable to detach the hydraulic hose means I have to leave the power unit in the middle of the floor. So I decided to make it detachable with some adapters. What you see above is a combination of the following parts. 1/4" NPT quick disconnect male/female fittings - $20 from Amazon 1/4" NPT male to 37degree female adapter (Gates 6FJX-4MP) - $2 from a local supplier 1/4" NPT female to 9/16-18 adapter (Gates 6MJ-4MP) - $5 from a local supplier So for another $30, the hydraulic hose can be disconnected at the power unit, the hose coiled up safely on the lift, and the power unit stowed away with the 10-ton jack stands, leaving a more open floor.
  10. If you look on the Blackstone site, you will find they actually recommend bypass filters to extend oil changes. Jose
  11. The testing process used by that site you found is pretty good, yeewiz. However, his choice of particulate size leaves me wanting. As I noted, I recalled other studies which state that particulate in the 10 - 20 micron size are the biggest concern. This thread cites some engineering standards which hold that it's actually a range from 2 -22 micron that is of concern, but the test you linked only tested a few at 5 micron, because it was so problematic. Now if you REALLY want clean oil, then you need a bypass filter like this one. That Franz product is tested to catch stuff down to the 2 micron range. I would be very happy to run a Mobile 1 or Purolator PureONE with that Franz unit in place. Although if that Franz unit does what it promises, I think ANY main filter would be just fine. Jose
  12. Anecdotal experience from a motorcycle forum is that the K&N filters aren't so special. The extra "nut" you can use to remove them tends to shear off, and the element isn't fine enough. What I recall from much studying I did a while back, the key factor to worry about is particulate in the 10-20 micron range. Larger than 20 micron is easily filtered, and smaller than 5 micron doesn't do as much damage. So the best filter is one designed to give full flow, with an element that catches particulate in the 10-20 micron range, at high rates. The Purolator PureONE does 90% efficiency at 10 micron, and 99.9% efficiency at 20. I don't know about the most recent lines though, as those number seem hard to find. I think the Mobil 1 filter is rated the same efficiency. What I remember is that all Fram products, and also the K&N, don't have efficiency numbers like that. Whatever filter you buy, try to find out this kind of info., as well as construction. Jose
  13. Purolator Pure1 is my filter of choice. Jose
  14. Today was a simple thing. I ordered two new rocker shafts, and dropped them off. I think the machining will kick off in earnest very soon. Just waiting my turn in line now.