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About DaHose

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  • Location Napa, CA

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  1. Knowing a 15x8 will fit in the rear is a great start. I'll find wheels I like and order a pair. Then I can test them up front. If they work, I order the other pair. If they don't work, I'll stagger with 7's. I just need as much traction as I can get in the back. I am building the engine with a target of 350+ HP. José
  2. That is exactly the info. I needed Doug. I want to run a 205/50-15 tire all around. On a 15X8 wheel, with 25mm offset that should have 6mm more clearance at both fender lip, and inner wheel well/shock. Compared to your front 17X7.5 setup, it would be 6.3mm wider in both directions. I am quite sure I will have room between strut/wheel with the custom front suspension I am assembling, and I can tweak the strut bottom in/out about 30MM. There is a fully adjustable strut top too. I will of course post pics when I get things dialed in. Jose
  3. Did you do anything to get the 15X8 to fit in the rear? Do you think a 205 would fit under there? Jose
  4. DaHose

    Make the body work!

    I absolutely will put up a post with dimensions, and specs. for materials. I just haven't gotten to it. Once I got the thing assembled, I got lazy. Jose
  5. So I have made at least some progress with getting the body ready. I completed the modification of a tiptisserie that Roundeie inherited to me. Now it can be broken down, and even shipped to the next person who might need it when I am done. Using my scissor lift, I was able to lift the body into the air, remove the entire rear sub-frame, and the body shell has been mounted to the tiptisserie. The teardown continues.
  6. If you aren't concerned with originality, you might also consider using the braided type of wire wrap/sleeving. I am thinking of using the fabric tape to re-wrap all the wires of the original harness. I will also add some extra wiring for AV equipment including a rear-view camera. All the non-OEM wires will be encased along with the bundle inside the braided loom. That way, I can tell which are the extra wires I have added at a glance, and I can easily add new wires into the bundle. That should make any future troubleshooting, or upgrading easier. Jose
  7. DaHose

    Sandblasting rear trailing arms

    I bet rubber stoppers with a bolt squeezing them in would work great too. Jose
  8. I am a fan of shroudless pusher fans when possible. They work awesome, the motor gets exposed to less heat, and more open space behind the radiator helps cooling. Jose
  9. That's a good link to keep in this thread, preyupy. I am hoping I can source a disk for my rear VW caliper upgrade, that won't require grinding the hub. Ideally I can identify what I need, then have my local O'Reilly store order the disk, and test it on my hub. Adjusting with the bracket is easy since it's just a flat plate. For the front, I am not committed to the caliper yet, so as long as the disk fits the hub/wheel combo, I am flexible on caliper placement and sizing. Hopefully I can find an easily available/replaceable for both front and back, but I will keep Coleman in mind if it doesn't work out. Jose
  10. Hey Simeon, Yeah, it was indeed a big task. It's a really good thing I'm an IT guy who works with data conversions, or it would not have happened. I tracked down an AC Delco chart too, but it's out of Australia. I haven't finished data cleanup on that one yet. Jose
  11. There is a resource I have spent the last several months trying to pin down, and finally got it. I am so happy, I just have to share it. Many of us want to do some kind of conversion/upgrade to our cars, and chief among them is a brake upgrade. That could involve several tried and true methods that are documented in various threads in this web site. However, if you want to try something other than what has been done, I haven't seen anyone put together a resource which gives dimensions of what possible options might exist in the world for us to work with. Everything out there is a trial-and-error report of someone's practical experience trying out something they thought might work. What I think we all could use is a comprehensive catalog of not just of what size disk our car uses, but what other cars might use that same size disk, and what other cars have disks that could be good candidates for us to experiment with. To that end, below is a link to an Excel spreadsheet I built using information I sourced from Bendix. Bendix Brake Disk Specifications and Application Chart - 2017 In the chart you will find a listing of EVERY disk Bendix makes. Not only are they listed by what car they go on, but putting it into an Excel format lets you filter it so that you can track down what you want. If you know any hot rodders, they will likely find this list to be a godsend. Need a disk to fit an application? Go to the chart and filter it by bolt pattern, disk OD, and offset. You will see EXACTLY what model Bendix makes to fit the bill, and you can see what car it comes on. Then you can either order the Bendix disk by number, or whatever brand you prefer by vehicle application.😎 Jose
  12. DaHose

    Rear Disc Brake Conversion

    If I recall correctly, you do need to make a change when going to disks in the rear. Two options I recall are to either go with a proportioning valve, or changing out to an E21 master cylinder. Harking back to the Saturn SC-1 vented front disks, I like the idea of buying them, and turning down the OD to the same as the E21 disks, or whatever fits your chosen wheels, except they are vented. I did some digging and found that SL-1 rear disks have the right bolt patter, and are actually 245mm. That is 6mm bigger than the VW disks. I wonder if they would fit without grinding the rear hubs? If so, then you would just need a different mounting bracket. I think I need to get me a rear disk and VW caliper to experiment with once I remove my rear subframe. Jose
  13. DaHose

    sweet exhaust note

    Depending on what you are looking for, consider a Moroso spiral flow, or a Flowmaster DBX series muffler. A straight through will be painfully loud, but nice and deep. The DBX is a compromise that cuts about 7 dB off compared to a straight muffler. Put the spiral flow inline, and you cut another 9 dB. That is the combination I have on my M6 and it sounds friggin great! Jose
  14. DaHose

    I bought a car lift!!

    Hey everyone, Today I added a little upgrade to my lift. I can easily disconnect the safety lock cable and stow it away with the lift, but being unable to detach the hydraulic hose means I have to leave the power unit in the middle of the floor. So I decided to make it detachable with some adapters. What you see above is a combination of the following parts. 1/4" NPT quick disconnect male/female fittings - $20 from Amazon 1/4" NPT male to 37degree female adapter (Gates 6FJX-4MP) - $2 from a local supplier 1/4" NPT female to 9/16-18 adapter (Gates 6MJ-4MP) - $5 from a local supplier So for another $30, the hydraulic hose can be disconnected at the power unit, the hose coiled up safely on the lift, and the power unit stowed away with the 10-ton jack stands, leaving a more open floor.