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About Mark92131

  • Birthday November 17

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  • Gender Male
  • Location San Diego, CA
  • Interests Golf, Vintage German Cars

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  1. Mark92131

    4 speed dilema

    I had the same issue with my 235 CR Getrag box, I wish BMW had a recall. I found a NOS output shaft in South America and had the original shaft repaired as a spare. Mark92131
  2. Mark92131

    Used, late 2002 parts

    On the FAQ, Mark92131
  3. Mark92131

    Diecast 2002 1:18 models

    Kyosho did my Polaris Turbo, they also make a nice Sahara Tii. The Polaris Cabriolet was actually a BMW Mobile Tradition release made in China. I bought it from Rob Torres after years of searching for one. Some Minichamps options at this site, but no standard 2002 models, rare or racing. Mark92131
  4. When I sent my cluster to as referenced by Casey, I sent some additional trim rings for spares. If you just want to update your rings, I can see if I can find them. Mark92131
  5. Mark92131

    Used, late 2002 parts

    Al (bluedevils) for Seat Belts, he can rebuild used ones or get you new ones. Mark92131
  6. Mark92131

    For Sale (Not Mine) Craigslist

    Pretty jumpy at a very high idle (1500?). It sounds good while reving, but they all do. I suspect it needs some ignition/carb adjustment and jetting to get the stumble out, idling at 900 and running smoother. Mark92131
  7. Mark92131

    About my rebuilt engine ...

    There were 3 different OEM "piano top" pistons for the E12 Head. Each piston's piano was progressively thicker. 8.3 to 1 for regular 02s 9.0 to 1 for US spec Tiis 9.5 to 1 for Euros spec Tiis and built motors. Hard to tell what you are running under that E21 head? Either the pistons were modified (see 4th photo) or the E21 Head was modified for the piano top pistons. If the head was decked, that will also change the compression ratio. If the pistons are aftermarket (QSC), their "piano top" pistons are very aggressive (high compression). Mark92131
  8. Mark92131

    To rebuild now or later

    Cracks in your Thermal Reactor manifold is the perfect excuse to replace it with a nice IE shorty header and stainless steel exhaust. If your 1976 hasn't been desmogged, its a great time to lose all that baggage. Here's a list of things that need to go... Mark92131 Smog removal 1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, or the IE Shorty Header. 2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack). 3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump. 4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve. Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove. 5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs) 6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone 7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive) 8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket 9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar. 10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now) 11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack). 12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff. 13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath). 14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smogharness (run wires off the + side of the coil) 15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them. The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil. If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall. Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely. If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box. The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil. If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present. 16. Reconnect the battery and start the car 17, Set the dwell and timing 18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.
  9. Mark92131

    Single side draft Weber

    Diego: I have the same setup on my car. I just converted to top crossbar linkage for throttle control, but before that I used the top mount holes on the Lynx manifold for my throttle return spring. The holes are 3/8" with a 16 pitch, just need to bend a piece of steel stock from home depot in to an "L" shape, drill a couple of holes and get 2 short 3/8"-16 bolts. I won't flex as much as your current setup. You can see the bolts holding the steel stock, but my return spring was on the opposite side for my cable setup. Mark92131
  10. This car has had more carb upgrades than all of the other 12 BMW 2002's I have owned. We started with the original 1 barrel Solex, to a horrible Weber 34 ICH, to a Weber 36/32, to a Weber 38/38, to a Weber 45 DCOE 152 and finally to a Weber 45 DCOE 152G. During the final upgrade to the 152G, I decided that the cable-based throttle control that came with the TEP Lynx package ( should be upgraded at the same time, so I started reading all the FAQ posts on the subject and reached out to a couple of FAQ members that had upgraded the throttle linkage on their Lynx manifold setup... Crickets! So this was going to be an exercise in trial and error. I started with a Universal Single DCOE Linkage kit from Pierce Manifolds ( From the description, it looked like it had everything I would need to convert my cable throttle linkage to a top mount crossbar linkage. After the package arrived, there was an immediate issue, the holes on the Lynx manifold are 3/8" - 16 pitch and the rod ends in the kit are 3/8" - 24 pitch, so they don't/won't screw in. OK, easy fix, I just need an adapter stud with 3/8" - 16 on one end and 3/8" - 24 on the other. I actually found a kit of 5 on Amazon, (, ordered them up along with new 3/8" - 24 female 5/16" rod ends from McMaster to match the rod in the kit. In my original setup, I fabricated a throttle return spring using the top mount linkage holes on the Lynx manifold. Now that that area was being repurposed for the crossbar linkage, I needed another solution for the return spring and purchased DCOE EXTERNAL SPRING KIT LT5000 from Pierce Manifold and installed it on the new Weber 45 DCOE 152G. When all the parts arrived, I assembled the new linkage and found that the lever connecting the stock throttle rod to the pedal box throttle linkage wasn't long enough to reach the rod end, so I used a piece of stock steel from home depot to extend the lever, (first photo). Another issue was the rod in the kit was only 11" long, so the lever controlling the stock throttle rod was at the very end of the rod and the levers in the kit were not very robust, (flexible). The result was very disappointing, too much flex, not enough throttle opening and not the smooth action I was expecting at the gas pedal. My first thought was upgrading the levers to the longer, more robust aluminum versions from Pierce Manifolds, so I ordered 2 of BILLET THROTTLE LEVER 3/8 SHAFT 32000, without realizing that these won't fit the 5/16" rod from the kit. When they arrived and obviously didn't fit the rod, it was on to Plan B. Let's just upgrade everything to 3/8", so I jumped on McMaster and ordered a 12" 3/8 Rod, 3/8" - 24 Female threaded 3/8" Rod Ends, and 3/8" Shaft Collars for my setup. I also ordered a new 8mm Ball throttle lever for the DCOE, because the one from the kit had a stiff action. If you were starting from scratch, these are the 8 parts I ordered. 1. BILLET THROTTLE LEVER 3/8 SHAFT 32000 - $28.65 x 2 2. DCOE EXTERNAL SPRING KIT LT5000 - $32.24 3. DCOE Throttle Lever 45041.009 - $18.40 4. JPS adjustable rod 75500.100 - $22.50 5. Rotary Shaft, 1566 Carbon Steel, 3/8" Diameter, 12" Long 1346K11 - $7.58 6. Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Thread 60645K34 - $3.78 x 2 7. Set Screw Shaft Collar for 3/8" Diameter, 303 Stainless Steel 6462K14 - $3.86 x 2 8. Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973217150 Automotive Studs, 3/8-16 x 3/8-24 x 1-1/2 - $10.04 After receiving all the parts and assembling them (see pictures), the results didn't disappoint, the action at the gas pedal is instantaneous and snaps back perfectly. No stretch or lag from the cable setup. The billet lever to the pedal box throttle rod was still too short, so I extended it as before. I treated myself to a pair of new air horns from Corsa Velocita I hope this helps someone looking for the same upgrade. Mark92131
  11. Mark92131

    Spend my money ... please (Power, Tranny)

    Seth: After reading your post, this video came to mind... Mark92131 and this...
  12. Mark92131

    1968 BMW 2002 Cabriolet - Convertible

    The BOT did find this listing after adding "2002" to the listing title. Bid to $59.1K "no reserve" in last eBay listing, back on again without an explanation the following week. I was hoping it would end up on BAT to get a reasonable gauge of the market for a modified cab, but that could get ugly for the seller. Mark92131
  13. Mark92131

    Pulling my hair out!

    I read today that PETA is suggesting we stop using phrases that promote cruelty to animals and has suggested we use "feeding a fed horse" as an appropriate alternative. So let's try "killing 2 birds with one stone" by limiting the use of non-essential phrases in our posts and using "pet friendly" language if we do. 😉 Tongue firmly planted in cheek, Mark92131
  14. The car looks nice in the limited pictures for the price, but obviously the VIN number and mileage are not correct. The VIN number should start with "237" and hopefully appear on the VIN Tag, Front Fender support, Steering Wheel upper cover and the engine block. Repaint in Fjord, (the VIN will verify the original color), although it looks a little dark, could be the lighting. I would have it inspected for rust, mechanical issues, finish the de-smog, tuck the bumpers, replace the waist trim, driver's side mirror and drive it like I stole it, because if it checks out, under $12K would be a steal. IMHO, Mark92131
  15. Win/Win Congratulations. Mark92131