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About Mark92131

  • Birthday November 17

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  1. Not Ceylon, but 1 family owned Jade Green? smog exempt 2002 in CA. Looks like an honest car at a reasonable price. Mark92131 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/brentwood-1974-bmw-2002-one-family-owned/6957267609.html
  2. Picked up today and off to Idaho with the new owner. My search for a replacement continues, although I have another Silver Cabriolet in the garage to help with the separation anxiety. Mark92131
  3. Ceylon was a stock color, pretty rare though. Mark92131
  4. Me too, makes my head hurt sometimes. Your post prompts so many questions. So does 12.5 Degrees of centrifugal curve at the distributor yield 25 degrees BTDC at the flywheel (the ball) with the distributor clocked at TDC? Or is 16 degrees of centrifugal advance at the distributor, 16 degrees BTDC at the flywheel with the distributor clocked at TDC? I always assumed that for the most part, the advance curves in the blue book for models and specific distributors for these models reflect a combination of centrifugal and vacuum advance, (tii distributors with no vacuum pod being the exception). So if a Tii distributor has a max centrifugal of 16 degrees and no vacuum pod, and 16 degrees is 32 degrees at flywheel or 16 degrees is 16 degrees at the flywheel, how does it get 25 degrees at 2400 RPM or 2700 RPM (US Version)? Is 2700 RPM the approximate speed to see the "all-in" centrifugal advance based on the stock weights and springs, (this seems to be the RPM used at the top values of the advance curve)? If 16 degrees at the distributor is 32 degrees at the flywheel, we are way over the blue book 25 degree at 2700 RPM, if 16 degrees at the distributor is 16 degrees at the flywheel we are way under the blue bool 25 degrees at 2700 RPM. My guess is that 16 degrees at the distributor is 32 degrees at the flywheel and 16 degrees is the mechanical limit of advance, but the springs and weight in the Ti distributor restrict the advance to 12.5 degrees or 25 degrees at the flywheel. Mark92131
  5. Just as a reference point, the Weber DCOE and the Lynx manifold have no connections available to supply any vacuum to that stock distributor, unless you tap the Lynx, (but that really isn't the vacuum you really want). The issue I have refers back to the Blue Book, which states that the maximum centrifugal (mechanical) advance for the 2002, 2002 Ti and 2002 Tii is 16 degrees, so with no vacuum connection, Pedrocalima's motor will top out at 16 degrees of advance with that distributor, unless the weights and springs are modified, or he switches it out for a 2002A distributor (21.6 degrees of mechanical advance), or he finds a way to tap the DCOE 40 above the throttle plates, or he buys the 123 ignition distributor. I have a very similar setup in my Cabriolet, (Weber DCOE 45) and tried tapping the Lynx manifold to supply vacuum to the 123 Ignition distributor to add or subtract advance in specific conditions (cruising, WOT, etc.). The problem I found was that using manifold vacuum wasn't linear based on RPM, it was never zero and varied based on RPM, Load on the motor and the gear I was in (for example, I would see 24 inHg reading for 4000 RPM in 3rd gear, 3000 RPM in 4th gear and 2500 RPM in 5th gear). If the vacuum above the throttle plates was linear based on RPM, then I could use it to build a 123 File with a static Centrifugal Curve of 16 Degrees and a MAP curve that added the appropriate advance based on the Abs Pressure (kP) for specific RPMs. Without that predictable linear vacuum readings, I zeroed out my MAP curve and just use the Centrifugal curve mapped to the timing curve for the "026" distributor on the 1600 Ti. Mark92131
  6. The 280/284 camshaft isn't that aggressive, so I would expect that your power numbers would be on the lower end of the RPM spectrum. I would first dial in the ignition, by mapping the curve for that distributor. With the Lynx and carb setup you aren't able to pull the right vacuum to help that distributor reach its maximum advance. So, set the 25 degree flywheel ball at 2200 RPM (Ti Spec) and use a variable timing light to see what kind of advance you are getting through the full RPM range. If you aren't getting enough advance with out the vacuum assist, you could have it rebuilt with new springs and weights to mimic the Ti curve, or pony up and buy the 123 Ignition distributor, to eliminate this issue. Just for fun, I would re-adjust the valves to see if that noise changes, but it sounds more like an exhaust leak to me. Mark92131
  7. I kind of went through the same process to work out an initial curve for my partial "Ti" setup. With 3 curves in the Blue Book for the Ti, it was difficult to figure out where to start. Like you, I started with the 2200 RPM, 25 Degree BTDC recommendation for the "026" distributor and worked it out from there. The blue book curves don't always match some of the ignition valves for the same distributor. For example is you try to map the 2200 RPM, 25 Degree BTDC value for the "026" distributor to the advance curve, it has you getting to 25 Degrees BTDC at around 1700 RPM. My values are close to your values, I wanted a little more advance at idle and slightly more on the top end. 1000 RPM - 10 Degrees BTDC 1500 RPM - 17 Degrees BTDC 2000 RPM - 23 Degrees BTDC 2500 RPM - 28 Degrees BTDC 2700 RPM - 33 Degrees BTDC 3000 RPM - 35 Degrees BTDC Mark92131
  8. Yes, different curve though. It also depends on what year and distributor you are trying to replace 1000 RPM - 11 to 15 Degrees BTDC 1500 RPM - 17 to 21 Degrees BTDC 2000 RPM - 23 to 27 Degrees BTDC 2500 RPM - 30 to 33 Degrees BTDC 2700 RPM --- This is the curve for a "003" distributor. I would set the flywheel ball (25 Degrees BTDC) at 2200 RPM and see how it performs. The cool thing is you can change it with your phone. Mark92131
  9. They will hold lots of stuff, reminds me of bringing my oldest daughter home from College. Mark92131
  10. USA Version only, Early ROW Tii's maxed out at 24-28 Degrees BTDC at 2500 RPM and were later adjusted to 20-24 Degrees BTDC at 2500 RPM when Germany established .4 g/liter lead content limits in their gasoline. Mark92131
  11. STP is pretty thick, I'm not surprised your oil pump is having issues pushing it through your motor. I might think about pulling the pan and oil pump, cleaning out the STP and see if you can build pressure using break-in oil after reassembly. At least you should be able to get oil up to your cam oiling bar by cranking the engine over prior to attempting to fire it. Mark92131
  12. This spontaneous imploding glass thing is not limited to vehicle windshields. Mark92131
  13. Warm engine sounds pretty normal, cold engine sounds like a loose valve train. When was the last time you adjusted the valves and what valve lash did you use? Could also be timing chain slop, any deflection in the timing chain? Mark92131
  14. That temperature sender is the T1 Temp Switch that provides ground (closed) to the Choke Relay at ambient temperatures below 63F or 17C. In later cars it is also wired to the T2 switch which is in the water jacket below the intake manifold and grounds the Choke Relay and EGR/Advance Relay below 113F or 45C. The EGR/Advance Relay powers the Red top electro-magnetic valve when T2 is cold (no vacuum flow) and powers the Black top electro-magnetic valve when T2 is warm, (no vacuum flow). Just in case you wanted to re-install your smog equipment. Mark92131
  15. Buckeye, I think he means the screws holding the cap on the rebuildable version of the Pierburg pump. I read it wrong the first time. Mark92131

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