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Mark92131

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Mark92131 last won the day on August 21 2020

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About Mark92131

  • Birthday November 17

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Interests
    Golf, Vintage German Cars

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  1. Paint looks great, good luck with your sale. Mark92131
  2. Fletcher: Runs and drives gets you out of the "for parts" category. Two-tone rattle-can paint, aluminum door panels, trim & bumper delete, mis-matched seats and koogleworks air dam puts you in the "rat-rod" category. 1976 with no smog components limits your market to buyers outside of CA. Some surface rust and hard starting isn't helping your cause. So my estimate is $6K to $8K as presented. Others may have a different estimate. Good luck with your sale! Mark92131
  3. Or "bathtub-like" for the 121 and 121 Ti heads. Mark92131
  4. Rich: 2 liter flat-top piston, universal for all heads, 8.5/1 compression ratio I believe, maybe a little more or less depending on the head gasket or head thickness. Mark92131
  5. Have him buy you the bluetooth version of the 123 Distributor, a 284 cam and a shorty header for your stock motor. After you get those parts installed, you can consider diving down the rabbit hole of dual DCOE ownership. IMHO, Mark92131
  6. No, as @visionaut points out above, if you are running the blue coil with internal resistance, you should eliminate the clear resistor wire and run a wire between fuse #12 and the "+" side of the coil. The resistor wire was needed because the original coil for the car was black coil with no internal resistor. This diagram from @John76 should help sort out your coil connections. Mark92131
  7. The raised "+" after the VIN on the Polaris car is very suspect! 🙂 Mark92131
  8. According to the decoder, a 1972 Euro Model BMW 2002 Tii. You can send an e-mail to BMW at [email protected] with you VIN # and they will tell you the date it was manufactured and the original color. I have never seen a VIN stamp on the upper fender like that, Belgium origin? Mark92131
  9. Reseda Green is a beautiful choice. On the short list for a repaint on my 1971 BMW 1600. The latest paint formulas for Reseda Green seem darker and little more gold than I remember, (I had a friend with a BMW 320i in this color, looked more like BMW 1502 pictured below). Also considering Opal Green for my repaint. Can't wait to see the progress. Mark92131
  10. Budget piston option for E12 Cylinder head. Mark92131 https://www.ebay.com/itm/261435360374?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  11. It gets hot in Kansas, you might consider running a Phenolic spacer to avoid the vapor lock with that 38/38 in the summer. Hans is right, don't be this guy, (me). Ended up removing the manifold to clean up the mess I made. Mark92131
  12. Most likely the gland nut, but a good time to verify the proper sequence and position of washers and spacers for the strut bearing. Mark92131
  13. What are the last 3 digits on the distributor you are running in your 74 Automatic. "003"? Each distributor model has a unique advance curve, so knowing what advance curve you should have vs what you actually have can indicate issues like sticky advance plates and worn springs, etc. According to the blue book, your 74 USA Automatic should be timed to 25 degrees BTDC at 1500 RPM, (footnote #2). To achieve this spec, just use you idle screw to bump the RPM up to 1500, loosen the 10mm nut on the distributor clamp, remove and plug the vacuum line to the distributor, and slowly turn the distributor back and forth until the "Ball" is lined up with the straight edge of the flywheel port at 1500 RPM, (this may take some adjustment to the idle as the distributor advances or retards the timing). Once achieved, tighten the 10mm nut and reset the idle screw so the car is idling at 900 +/- 50 RPM. I would then use that fancy timing light to plot the advance curve for your distributor for the following RPM points (1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 2700) and then compare it to the factory spec curves for the model of distributor you have. As our Master Tinker points out, if your dwell is fluxuating or your curve isn't in line with the specification for your distributor, it may need a rebuild, (see Overhauling Distributor PDF I downloaded from the FAQ). If your curve plot falls within spec, plug for vacuum line back in your distributor and set your weber carb using the redline spec for achieving best idle. Have fun! Mark92131 Overhauling Distributor.pdf Dizzy specs.pdf
  14. To make what you have work, you need to reposition the muffler so the outlet shifts towards the notch, reposition the hanger and fab a new exhaust outlet. Doable with the right equipment and skills. Mark92131
  15. This look nice with "silver dollar" instrument clusters. Mark92131
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