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Mark92131

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About Mark92131

  • Birthday November 17

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  1. A better question would be "why is your brake/clutch fluid reservoir tucked under your air cleaner?" Needs to go back to its home on the driver's side inner fender. Mark92131
  2. Also, from the picture, it looks link you have sway bar links, but no sway bar in front? I have a set of stock sway bars if you find you need them. Have fun wrenching. Mark92131
  3. Your ball joints should be pretty easy, it looks like they were replaced at some point, (three nuts attaching them to the lower control arm vs the three rivets that Randy had to drill out). Back in the day, it was easier and cheaper to buy new lower control arms because you didn't need to drill out the rivets and they came with new rubber bushings installed. All you need to do is remove the safety wire on the 3 nuts that hold the pitman arm to the bottom of the strut housing, so you can get to the top nut of the ball joint. The hardest part of the job is drilling out the 3 rivets holding the original ball joint to the lower control arm, yours are already drilled out and replaced with nuts and bolts. In the picture, your driver's side lower control arm looks bent/kinked, so you might want to consider replacing it with a new one. Mark92131
  4. Here's what you don't want to see... Mark92131
  5. If you don't want to run the spacers on top of your fenders, you can press out the 3 short studs on your original strut bearings and replace the long studs on the new strut bearings. From your picture, it doesn't look like you originally had spacers, as expected on an early 6 fuse car. Mark92131
  6. Why not run a cold start (choke) cable and hook it up? You don't really need the plate, purely cosmetic cleanup if you aren't planing to use the fuel enrichment circuit. I think there is a gasket between the body of the carb and the fuel enrichment mechanism. Mark92131
  7. I absolutely love your car, and your dedication to keep it original is admirable. So many of the early 1600's get converted to 12 Volt and run alternators, swap in short neck differentials and sway bars and convert to spin-on oil filters. Seeing your car puts a smile on my face. Keep up the good work! Mark92131 P.S. Have Rick change out your coil 😉
  8. The last time I was at La Jolla Independent, Carl had a number of long consoles stacked in the back corner of his showroom. You might drop him a line and see if he would part with one. http://www.bimmerdoc.com/contact-us/ Mark92131
  9. Beautiful car, why not list it on BAT? This car checks a lot of boxes for BMW 2002's on BAT, small bumpers, euro turn signals, recaros, stance, (minus the 5 speed). Did they graft an additional inlet connection to the stock air cleaner? Now they can talk about 2 snorkels. I noticed the 1976 emission equipment was omitted during the restoration, may limit your opportunities for California buyers. But by far, the nicest restored Jade Grun 1976 BMW 2002 I've ever seen. The new owner will be thrilled. Mark92131
  10. Yes, the white-top magnetic valve appeared with the two-barrel carb, 72/73. Mark92131
  11. Those Turbine Rims should fit fine, I run them on my Cab. The offset is 13mm I believe. Mark92131
  12. Also from San Diego and have dealt with the CA smog issue for a number of 1976 models I have owned over the years. I have considered the same thing, upgrading the engines in these cars to something newer, but never pulled the trigger based on the uncertainty of the smog politics in California. One option I considered based on the popularity of the swap was the M42 motor from the E30 BMW 318i. Many have done this swap and there are lots of upside in horsepower and reliability gains. For a 1976 in CA, the issue comes down to the emission equipment found on the donor motor. It is my understanding that to get that combination to pass smog, the conversion requires the donor motor to have all of its smog components installed and operational, (i.e. Catalytic Convertor, etc.), so whatever smog equipment was present on the 1991? donor car, needs to end up on your 1976 BMW 2002. If you are up for the challenge, this could be a good option for you. If I was in your shoes, I would probably run 2 versions of my M10 motor, one for smog and one for fun. I would leave all the smog stuff on, take the belt off the smog pump. and have a Weber 36/32 that was jetted for smog and a Weber 38/38 with a 123 Ignition Distributor that I would run for fun. When I was ready to smog it, I would swap carbs and the distributor, hook up the smog pump and pray it passes smog. This isn't a huge deal, probably spend a couple of hours getting it done every 2 years at minimal expense. IMHO, Mark92131
  13. Good eyes, clearly a E21 2.0 Head. The casting date is obscure, (75 or 76?). Mark92131
  14. There are 3 nuts to remove to free the down pipe from the manifold. In the middle picture from the manual, the third nut is opposite the top nut. obscured by the pipe. Mark92131
  15. Bilstein strut not seated all the way to the bottom of the strut tube? Any corrosion at the bottom of the tube will prevent the strut from seating all the way down. Is the strut tube cap screwed all the way down with no threads exposed? Leaving out washers and not using big enough ones is a concern (the size, position, and order of the washers and spacers are very specific), see diagram. If the washer under the strut bearing was missing, the end of the strut would sit higher and you wouldn't be able to install the bearing cap. Mark92131
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