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Mark92131

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About Mark92131

  • Birthday November 17

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  1. Pretty ambitious pricing for the issues on this car. I'm still trying to figure out what made that hole in the driver's side "C" pillar. High teens is probably more realistic. IMHO, Mark92131
  2. My old 1976 Trunk pictures with the boards removed. Mark92131
  3. Excess RTV on the oil pan gasket? Mark92131
  4. I struggled with this issue on my Weber DCOE 45 + Lynx Manifold setup. I tapped the Lynx Manifold for the 123 Distributor and recorded the inHg/KPa readings on the 123 Ignition Application while doing some WOT runs and cruising. What I found was that the inHg/kPa readings from the Manifold would duplicate (8 inHg to 24 inHg) in different conditions, throttle position, engine load, RPM, Gear selection, etc., preventing me from having an inHg/KPa reading and RPM combination that indicated I was in a cruise state and could benefit from more advance. Maybe your Tii will be more predictable. Mark92131
  5. I can make an introduction, just message me. He runs a pretty small shop, I waited almost 2 months to get a spot in the queue. Mark92131
  6. I just sent my 1970 BMW 1600 off to paint. Started stripping the exterior bits and just kept going until I ended up with a bare shell, not my original plan. I am using my painter in Ramona that did my Mintgrun car. There is some minor rust in the front valance under the battery and some at the junction of the "C" pillar and body that will be cut out and new metal welded in. There is another 2002 in front of mine that had significant metal work and a color change to Taiga. They are also undercoating this car with a Taiga tinted product that I will evaluate for my car. I haven't picked a color yet, but my painter will do some spray outs to see if I like the formulas in the catalog for the ones I am considering (Reseda Green, Turkis, Baikal). Pricing is comparable to TJ (under $6K), without the issue with the border crossing. Mark92131
  7. Yes, but as @mikementioned earlier, the position of the swan neck mirror was moved from the forward position on the door to farther back based on interference with opening the vent window on the early 1600's and NK sedans. But on the Cabriolet's, the vent window is fixed and doesn't open, which doesn't really explain why early Cab's like the Turkis one pictured had them forward and my 1971 was farther back, unless the donor bodies sent to the Baur factory had the holes for the mirrors pre-punched? So many of the pictures of Cabriolets I have collected over the years are missing their Swan mirrors, most have "upgraded" to Flag or Trap mirrors. The position on the door with a fixed vent window with these "upgraded" mirrors appears universally in the back position. My theory for the change in mirror position in the Cab isn't interference with the Vent window or pre-punched holes, but that the Swan mirror is pretty small and in the forward position, it is farther from driver's position, making it even smaller. There is also sight interference with the trailing edge of vent window especially for taller drivers which may explain the change to the back position in the Cab and other models. But it is only a theory. Mark92131
  8. Not a 2002 center grill, maybe E21. Looks like it was originally Riviera. This would be a pass at $7K, a maybe at $3K. Mark92131
  9. Buckeye: Do you need a special tool to snug those Pirate CV Clamps? Mark92131
  10. Thanks again Matt! Mark92131
  11. Just to mess with your head, here's a 72 emission security sticker (silver on black background) for a carb car, with completely different specifications for timing. Mark92131
  12. Lots of cool parts for not a lot of money at the moment. If anyone here buys this, I would be interested in that back seat. Mark92131
  13. 1976 Cars outside California had 49 State Emission systems, significantly simpler with no EGR plumbing, no control valve, and one less electro-mechanical valve on the firewall. They both have smog pumps which do require power to drive. The issue with 76 California cars is that they must pass smog every 2 years and they must have all their smog equipment intact and functioning, which detracts from their ability to make significant performance modifications to the motor. Mark92131
  14. Did you remove the torsion bar prior to paint? It is easy to get the orientation wrong when re-installing. In your pictures, they don't look oriented correctly, the torsion should occur as the fold in towards the front of the hood and yours look like they should look at maximum compression. Did you use the correct shoulder bolts and washers to connect the ends of the torsion bar arms to the fender tops? As Swiss 2002Tii points out, don't attempt to close the hood without the shoulder bolts tight on the upper fender tabs. Use a generous amount of painter's tape on the top of your fenders to prevent marring that lovely Chamonix paint. Mark92131
  15. Here you go... Mark92131 https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/set-of-screws-and-nuts-all-original-yellow-zinc-plated-33-16-00.html
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