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Mark92131

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About Mark92131

  • Birthday November 17

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  1. When you find TDC on the flywheel, the line on your Cam should line up with the oil bar on your head, your rotor should be pointing at the spark plug lead for cylinder #1 and the notch in your distributor housing. The spark plug leads from clockwise should be 1 3 4 2 as noted by @76mintgrun02. Next I would reset my points to spec or check the pickup gap on my petronix until me dwell reading was in spec. This setting should get you in the ball park and the car should run. Next, disconnect and plug vaccum lines to your distributor, use the idle speed screw on your carb to dial up 1400 RPM and point your timing light down the timing hole in your transmission bell housing while turning your distributor until you see the steel ball on the flywheel, that should be 25 degrees BTDC at 1400 RPM. You car should be happy there. Once the timing is correct, I would, reconnect your vacuum lines to the distributor, adjust your carb(s) idle mixture for best, smooth idle, reset your idle speed to around 900 and things should be good, if not check for vacuum leaks. Mark92131
  2. Polished and tucked the bumpers of my 1975, super easy to do and looked great with new paint. Mark92131
  3. There seems to be a lot of value here, I would offer $4K, knowing I could probably break even on a part-out if the Tii was full of rust. The seats with some repair are probably worth $1500, 320I sport steering wheel $200, the list goes on. IMHO, Mark92131
  4. Here's an option for obtaining a clear boot for your car. You don't pay VAT, but you do pay shipping. Sometimes they have discount coupons. Mark92131 https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?order=name&dir=asc&q=33213614150
  5. Mark92131

    Mark's 2002 Collection

    I have owned quite a few BMW 2002's over the years, most have gone to good homes. I am hoping that someone will see their car and leave a comment about where it ended up.
  6. Idle jet maybe clogged. Screw the idle mixture adjustment screw in until it seats and count the number of turns until it is seated, don't over tighten. Screw it all the way out, check that the tip of the adjustment screw isn't damaged, check blow out the idle jet hole with compressed air and re-install the adjustment screw till it seats again, then turn it out the same number of turns it took to seat in the beginning. This should put you back in the ballpark. With the choke off, back the idle speed adjustment screw off the throttle cam until it just touches, then screw it in, 1.5 turns. Once the car is idling, slowly turn the idle mixture screw in and out until the motor achieves its fastest/smoothest idle. Adjust the idle speed adjustment screw until your car idles about 900 RPM and you are done. Mark92131
  7. Blue Book ignition timing for a Ti at 1000 RPM has a lot of variance depending on the model of the distributor. "003" Distributor - 3 to 8 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM "026" Distributor - 18 to 22 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM "033" Distributor - 10 to 13 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM Mark92131
  8. I beleive the euro cars went from all chrome surrounds to just chrome around the leading edge and the US cars went all black. Here's a reference picture of the restoration of my 1971 Cab's instrument cluster. I had the leading edge and the instrument bezels "re-chromed" at http://gcartrim.com/. Mark92131
  9. Works good on belt-line trim and bumpers if you remove the anodized coating. Mark92131
  10. Not Ceylon, but 1 family owned Jade Green? smog exempt 2002 in CA. Looks like an honest car at a reasonable price. Mark92131 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/brentwood-1974-bmw-2002-one-family-owned/6957267609.html
  11. Picked up today and off to Idaho with the new owner. My search for a replacement continues, although I have another Silver Cabriolet in the garage to help with the separation anxiety. Mark92131
  12. Ceylon was a stock color, pretty rare though. Mark92131
  13. Me too, makes my head hurt sometimes. Your post prompts so many questions. So does 12.5 Degrees of centrifugal curve at the distributor yield 25 degrees BTDC at the flywheel (the ball) with the distributor clocked at TDC? Or is 16 degrees of centrifugal advance at the distributor, 16 degrees BTDC at the flywheel with the distributor clocked at TDC? I always assumed that for the most part, the advance curves in the blue book for models and specific distributors for these models reflect a combination of centrifugal and vacuum advance, (tii distributors with no vacuum pod being the exception). So if a Tii distributor has a max centrifugal of 16 degrees and no vacuum pod, and 16 degrees is 32 degrees at flywheel or 16 degrees is 16 degrees at the flywheel, how does it get 25 degrees at 2400 RPM or 2700 RPM (US Version)? Is 2700 RPM the approximate speed to see the "all-in" centrifugal advance based on the stock weights and springs, (this seems to be the RPM used at the top values of the advance curve)? If 16 degrees at the distributor is 32 degrees at the flywheel, we are way over the blue book 25 degree at 2700 RPM, if 16 degrees at the distributor is 16 degrees at the flywheel we are way under the blue bool 25 degrees at 2700 RPM. My guess is that 16 degrees at the distributor is 32 degrees at the flywheel and 16 degrees is the mechanical limit of advance, but the springs and weight in the Ti distributor restrict the advance to 12.5 degrees or 25 degrees at the flywheel. Mark92131
  14. Just as a reference point, the Weber DCOE and the Lynx manifold have no connections available to supply any vacuum to that stock distributor, unless you tap the Lynx, (but that really isn't the vacuum you really want). The issue I have refers back to the Blue Book, which states that the maximum centrifugal (mechanical) advance for the 2002, 2002 Ti and 2002 Tii is 16 degrees, so with no vacuum connection, Pedrocalima's motor will top out at 16 degrees of advance with that distributor, unless the weights and springs are modified, or he switches it out for a 2002A distributor (21.6 degrees of mechanical advance), or he finds a way to tap the DCOE 40 above the throttle plates, or he buys the 123 ignition distributor. I have a very similar setup in my Cabriolet, (Weber DCOE 45) and tried tapping the Lynx manifold to supply vacuum to the 123 Ignition distributor to add or subtract advance in specific conditions (cruising, WOT, etc.). The problem I found was that using manifold vacuum wasn't linear based on RPM, it was never zero and varied based on RPM, Load on the motor and the gear I was in (for example, I would see 24 inHg reading for 4000 RPM in 3rd gear, 3000 RPM in 4th gear and 2500 RPM in 5th gear). If the vacuum above the throttle plates was linear based on RPM, then I could use it to build a 123 File with a static Centrifugal Curve of 16 Degrees and a MAP curve that added the appropriate advance based on the Abs Pressure (kP) for specific RPMs. Without that predictable linear vacuum readings, I zeroed out my MAP curve and just use the Centrifugal curve mapped to the timing curve for the "026" distributor on the 1600 Ti. Mark92131
  15. The 280/284 camshaft isn't that aggressive, so I would expect that your power numbers would be on the lower end of the RPM spectrum. I would first dial in the ignition, by mapping the curve for that distributor. With the Lynx and carb setup you aren't able to pull the right vacuum to help that distributor reach its maximum advance. So, set the 25 degree flywheel ball at 2200 RPM (Ti Spec) and use a variable timing light to see what kind of advance you are getting through the full RPM range. If you aren't getting enough advance with out the vacuum assist, you could have it rebuilt with new springs and weights to mimic the Ti curve, or pony up and buy the 123 Ignition distributor, to eliminate this issue. Just for fun, I would re-adjust the valves to see if that noise changes, but it sounds more like an exhaust leak to me. Mark92131


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