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Everything posted by Mark92131

  1. Damn, I could use so many on these parts, but like you, no where to store two cars during my restoration. If you find a place to store it, I would love that front grill set and headlight buckets. My parts list could probably cover your storage costs. Good luck with your sale. Mark92131
  2. After you have sorted your ignition system, If you have an in-line fuel filter, replace it with a new one. I had the exact same issue with the car losing power on inclines which turned out to be crap in the fuel filter starving the carb. Mark92131
  3. San Diego, America's finest city ;-). Stay Classy, Mark92131
  4. PM sent on eBay listing. Mark92131
  5. Bristol is one of my favorite colors for early 1600's, but if you must go orange, my vote is Colorado. Your project looks much more complete than mine, have fun with your restoration. Mark92131
  6. Check that all the intake manifold gaskets between the head and the Lynx manifold are installed, then check the soft gaskets between the Weber and the Lynx manifold for leaks. If this is OK, make sure your set screws holding the venturis are seated properly and safety wired. I had one come loose on the freeway, the car would idle, but not accelerate. Lots of good advice on things to try and confirm, it shouldn't be too difficult to figure it out. Once this setup is dialed in, it is pretty bullet-proof. Mark92131
  7. Malaga is a beautiful color when the painter gets it right, (not right below), the car pictured above seems pretty correct for that color. Hard to tell if the picture of the "white" car is Chamonix, could be the lighting, could be the paint. Looks a little bright for Chamonix. Both Chamonix and Malaga look good with tan interiors, but I would give the nod to Malaga. I am also struggling with paint color choices for my 1970 1600, originally Nevada / Tobacco Interior project. Door & rear panels are in great shape, no seats and I have a World Upholstery Tan carpet kit for it. I am not a huge fan of Nevada, but would like to keep the paint relatively correct for the year and model. It would be nice to know what colors were offered with Tobacco interiors to narrow down the choices, otherwise, I may just swap out the interior completely and paint it Polaris. Mark92131
  8. This will be a project on my ever growing project list. Where did you get your replacement headliner? What did the upholsterer charge to restitch the heat seams? I for one would appreciate any tips, documentation, pictures or experiences you encounter during the restoration process. The headliner in my car has detached at the "C" pillar and exposed the rotting foam. I thought about replacing the foam and trying to repair this section, but the headliner is pretty brittle in this area. I may need to bite the bullet and replace it all after the car comes back from paint, but it would be nice to have additional insight into the scope of this project. Mark92131
  9. Looks like Reseda Green in the picture. Mark92131
  10. Are you parting out that rusty early Roundie? Have NOS parts that are sitting on your shelf gathering dust? I am in the process of gathering parts for a long-term restoration of a 1970 BMW 1600. Most of the interior is missing and well as some exterior bits. I am looking for high quality NOS or refurbished parts, or good driver quality parts that I can use until I find high quality replacements. Here's a partial list of items I will need/want. I have other BMW parts that could be traded. Front Grill Set, (all chrome or black slats) Turn Signals (US or European) Windshield Wiper Mechanism (Complete with motor Heater Box (Ideally, one with working fan and valve) Pull Knob Flasher (In good working order) Ignition Switch Under Dash Panels Steering Wheel Clam Shell (With hardware) Turn Signal Switch/Stalk Headlight Dimmer/Flasher Switch/Stalk Dashboard (Prefer 3 piece, but 2 or 1 piece will work) Headliner (Slick top) Lower door sills Door trim under window (Driver's side) Driver's Side Window Regulator Front and rear seats (Currently have Tobacco interior panels, but open to other interior colors) Front seat sliders Rear window glass BMW 1600 Rear Script Hella License Plate Lights Rear License plate holder Rear Roundie Roundel Trunk boards (Elephant Skin) Early Jack Spare tire hold down Early bumper attachment hardware (Pre-73, front and rear) Some Waist-line trim pieces (Hood nose, rear quarters, 3 trunk pieces) Emergency Brake Lever Rear Deck Panel Gas Tank Filler Rubber Boot Rain Gutter Trim Mirrors (Trap, Flag, Swan) Tail light lenses Tail Light Chrome & Gaskets This is by no means a complete list. If you have some of these items, or are parting out a complete car, drop me a PM. Thanks, Mark92131
  11. Someone on the FAQ was reproducing these gaskets. Mark92131
  12. Bring those parts and the Roll Bar is yours. Mark92131
  13. Maybe this guy has what you need. Mark92131 https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/d/van-nuys-e10-bmw-hood/7064353449.html
  14. 1063700 doesn't come up on the VIN Decoder as a valid VIN. Does that number match the number on the back of the block and the passenger side of the front fender mounting structure under the hood? You could send an e-mail to [email protected] with the VIN and see if they have any records for it. Good luck, Mark92131
  15. This 1967 1600, Vin #1506913 in Florida paint is missing its football washer bottle, however the holes for the dogbone bracket are present and in the position that would mount the washer bottle in the same relative position as Lisa02P's beautiful Derby car. On Adawil2002's car, it appears that the bottle bracket is retained by one bolt, farther forward on the panel and the second hole for the dogbone bracket (closer to the firewall) isn't present. I'm with Steve on his assessment that when it comes to Baur Convertibles, who knows what state the bodies were in that they were getting from the BMW factory and what they did to them during the conversion process, (welding on brackets, bolting on brackets, not installing the washer system at all). Without the second hole for the dogbone bracket, I find it hard to make a case for a football shaped reservoir on this Cab. Mark92131
  16. Andrew: You have several options... You could run the one you have installed, (easiest) You could find a round VDO bottle and pump, find the matching bracket from a donor car, weld it in, paint it red and wire it up. You could find a round VDO bottle and pump, find the matching bracket from a donor car, paint it red, bolt it in and wire it up. Search in vain for years for a 66/67 oval bottle and pay through the nose for it, install it and grind over the fact that it is not the right one for your Cab. None of these options is a bad one, it just depends on your end goal. Mark92131
  17. By 1968 the BMW 1600's seemed to be sporting the round VDO bottles, even the Cabriolets. I've never seen an oval bottle on Cab, either not installed at all (no bracket), or a round VDO. Mark92131
  18. Yes, the E30 bottlecaps fit great and provide more tire choice in 14 inch. I really like the E30 steel wheel option for our cars, cheap man's borrani look-alike. Mark92131
  19. Wow, seems like too much advance according to the Blue Book for the Tii. The 3 curves for the Tii look like this... 2002 Tii Model - 25 Degrees at 2400 RPM 1000 RPM 2 - 7 Degrees (ROW) 1000 RPM 2 - 3 Degrees (25 @ 2900 RPM) 1000 RPM 0 - 4 Degrees (USA) 1500 RPM 12 - 17 Degrees (ROW) 1500 RPM 8 - 12 Degrees (25 @ 2900 RPM) 1500 RPM 10 - 14 Degrees (USA) 2000 RPM 18 - 22 Degrees (ROW) 2000 RPM 14 - 18 Degrees (25 @ 2900 RPM) 2000 RPM 15 - 20 Degrees (USA) 2500 RPM 24 - 28 Degrees (ROW) 2500 RPM 20 - 24 Degrees (25 @ 2900 RPM) 2500 RPM 21 - 26 Degrees (USA) 2700 RPM 25 Degrees (USA) Excluding the 25 Degrees at 2900 RPM Curve, I would assume that the USA curve is adjusted for the poor gas quality. To get to the ideal 25 Degrees at 2400 RPM, I would try the following ignition curve. RPM Degrees at crankshaft 500 0.0 1000 4.0 1500 14.0 2000 20.0 2500 26.0 3000 26.0 3500 26.0 6400 26.0 Use your Timing Light to verify that you are getting 25 degrees of advance at 2400 RPM and that the steel ball is in the observation hole, otherwise you may have been slightly off TDC when you setup your 123 Ignition distributor. I hope this helps. Mark92131
  20. What does your 123 ignition curve look like? The Tii doesn't seem to need a lot of advance. At what RPM do you see the 25 degree BTDC steel ball on the flywheel through the observation hole, should be 2400 - 2900 RPM depending on what Ignition Map you are using ROW, USA, 25 Degrees at 2900 (Blue Book). Mark92131
  21. Sounds like you have good compression, you could do a leak-down test while you have it on the stand for peace of mind. Personally, I would clean it up, button it up and run it. If it has leaky guides, you can easily pull the head while it is in the car, it only takes an hour or two. Mark92131
  22. Apparently people spend more than $35K on nice roundies, even ones with a non-matching chassis VIN. Mark92131 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-bmw-2002-46-2/
  23. You will need to source a new water neck and bypass pipe, so add those to your budget. You may need an assortment of idle jets to get the tuning dialed in, but nothing a decent mechanic can't handle. O2 sensor would be very handy and a variable timing light to map your ignition curve will insure the Weber/Lynx upgrade is performing properly. You may wish to consider upgrading the throttle linkage cable system, the one provided in the TEP kit is pretty binary (either on or off). Have fun, Mark92131
  24. This chart from paintref.com shows BMW Polaris starting in 1963 and exhibiting multiple paint codes through the years. 7052 7054 7058 060 7058-2 (post 2002) 900 (post 2002) Mark92131
  25. Fire it up, stick the eraser end of a pencil down the timing hole and see if you can feel the Steel Ball. The eraser may clean enough of the flywheel to see the timing marks. Depending on your distributor, the ball on the flywheel should appear in the hole at a specific RPM, you won't see it at idle. Mark92131

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