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Mark92131

Solex
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Everything posted by Mark92131

  1. I'm not sure that the pressure washing shot was the best option for the ad, but the original ad was pretty light on photographic documentation. Owner claims original Sahara paint, and if true, looks spectacular for a 1973. It is even sporting its original Solex 2 barrel carb. Pressure washing did a nice job of cleaning up the transmission tunnel before removing the driveshaft. https://monterey.craigslist.org/cto/d/hollister-1973-bmw-2002-sahara-all/6980332576.html Mark92131
  2. Bill pulled it apart, made a list of things he didn't like, mostly shims and syncros, and we started tracking down parts. Thankfully, most of the 235/5 specific parts were in good shape, sans the output shaft which is longer than the 4 speed version. Just by chance, I found a NOS one on eBay in Bogata with a BIN price of $900. Apparently, the seller had a stash, because there was another on on sale the following week for $1800. The shims and synchros were sourced from Germany, but many of the transmission parts are now NLA. If you are thinking of having Bill rebuild your 235/5, I wouldn't wait too long, he isn't getting any younger. On the Jensen, do you swap the front bell housing with one from a 235/4 Getrag? Mark92131
  3. I bought a 1971 BMW 2002 that had an engine fire for $500 off of eBay. The fire damage was pretty significant, so I elected to part it out. When I pulled the transmission, it looked different than my other 4 speeds. A little research confirmed it had been ordered with a factory installed 235/5 Getrag transmission. The bad news, it needed a new output shaft. I sourced a NOS one in Columbia and had it rebuilt by Bill Holmes at Bavarian Rennsport. it is always nice to get lucky once in a while. Rebuild it, sell it and fund your restoration. Mark92131
  4. On Craigslist, not a bad one to fix and sell out of State. Mark92131 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/d/redwood-city-1976-bmw-2002/6968222739.html
  5. Here's one... https://www.euroclassics.nl/BMW 2002ti 1970_a.html I bought my Cabriolet from Laurens. Mark92131
  6. It really depends on your goals. Are you replacing worn out OEM stuff for new OEM stuff? Are you looking for a stance or performance upgrade? What is the condition of the rest of your suspension, bushings, ball joints, sway bars, etc? Rear shocks and springs at pretty easy. Front struts and springs are a little tricky. Finding shocks for our cars is getting difficult, with Bilstein back-ordered in the US. Based on your goals, there are lots of expertise that can guide you through this process. Mark92131 P.S. Evaluating the condition of your existing shocks, springs and suspension can be done pretty easily. Any suspension sagging, you can measure the body height relative to the ground at all four corners, (should be even on both sides). How well do the shocks dampen, push down on the rear trunk corner, does it come up and stop, or does it continue to move up and down? Are your rubber bushings old and cracked? Any slop in the center link and tie rods? Original ball joints riveted to the control arms? Original sway bars? Lots of things to consider.
  7. It really depends on your distributor curve. My 123 Ignition Distributor was setup as a custom Ti curve averaging the curves from the 3 Ti distributors ("003", "026", and "033" models). But I was at 25 degrees BTDC at 2200 RPM because that's what the Blue Book had indicated for the Ti. Blue Book values for 2002 manual and automatic models are 25 degrees BTDC at 1400 RPM. There are however exceptions to this for models that still have there smog equipment functioning, higher RPMs at 25 degrees BTDC. Mark92131
  8. When you find TDC on the flywheel, the line on your Cam should line up with the oil bar on your head, your rotor should be pointing at the spark plug lead for cylinder #1 and the notch in your distributor housing. The spark plug leads from clockwise should be 1 3 4 2 as noted by @76mintgrun02. Next I would reset my points to spec or check the pickup gap on my petronix until me dwell reading was in spec. This setting should get you in the ball park and the car should run. Next, disconnect and plug vaccum lines to your distributor, use the idle speed screw on your carb to dial up 1400 RPM and point your timing light down the timing hole in your transmission bell housing while turning your distributor until you see the steel ball on the flywheel, that should be 25 degrees BTDC at 1400 RPM. You car should be happy there. Once the timing is correct, I would, reconnect your vacuum lines to the distributor, adjust your carb(s) idle mixture for best, smooth idle, reset your idle speed to around 900 and things should be good, if not check for vacuum leaks. Mark92131
  9. Polished and tucked the bumpers of my 1975, super easy to do and looked great with new paint. Mark92131
  10. There seems to be a lot of value here, I would offer $4K, knowing I could probably break even on a part-out if the Tii was full of rust. The seats with some repair are probably worth $1500, 320I sport steering wheel $200, the list goes on. IMHO, Mark92131
  11. Here's an option for obtaining a clear boot for your car. You don't pay VAT, but you do pay shipping. Sometimes they have discount coupons. Mark92131 https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?order=name&dir=asc&q=33213614150
  12. This was the donor car that supplied the drivetrain for the 1971 BMW 1600 Cabriolet. Bought it local in Scripps Ranch after he spun it into a guard rail front and back. I stripped this down, sold most of the parts and sold the shell to a guy that needed the pan to restore his 1600 Voll Cabriolet.
  13. Mark92131

    Mark's 2002 Collection

    I have owned quite a few BMW 2002's over the years, most have gone to good homes. I am hoping that someone will see their car and leave a comment about where it ended up.
  14. Idle jet maybe clogged. Screw the idle mixture adjustment screw in until it seats and count the number of turns until it is seated, don't over tighten. Screw it all the way out, check that the tip of the adjustment screw isn't damaged, check blow out the idle jet hole with compressed air and re-install the adjustment screw till it seats again, then turn it out the same number of turns it took to seat in the beginning. This should put you back in the ballpark. With the choke off, back the idle speed adjustment screw off the throttle cam until it just touches, then screw it in, 1.5 turns. Once the car is idling, slowly turn the idle mixture screw in and out until the motor achieves its fastest/smoothest idle. Adjust the idle speed adjustment screw until your car idles about 900 RPM and you are done. Mark92131
  15. Blue Book ignition timing for a Ti at 1000 RPM has a lot of variance depending on the model of the distributor. "003" Distributor - 3 to 8 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM "026" Distributor - 18 to 22 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM "033" Distributor - 10 to 13 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM Mark92131
  16. I beleive the euro cars went from all chrome surrounds to just chrome around the leading edge and the US cars went all black. Here's a reference picture of the restoration of my 1971 Cab's instrument cluster. I had the leading edge and the instrument bezels "re-chromed" at http://gcartrim.com/. Mark92131
  17. Works good on belt-line trim and bumpers if you remove the anodized coating. Mark92131
  18. Not Ceylon, but 1 family owned Jade Green? smog exempt 2002 in CA. Looks like an honest car at a reasonable price. Mark92131 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/brentwood-1974-bmw-2002-one-family-owned/6957267609.html
  19. Picked up today and off to Idaho with the new owner. My search for a replacement continues, although I have another Silver Cabriolet in the garage to help with the separation anxiety. Mark92131
  20. Ceylon was a stock color, pretty rare though. Mark92131
  21. Me too, makes my head hurt sometimes. Your post prompts so many questions. So does 12.5 Degrees of centrifugal curve at the distributor yield 25 degrees BTDC at the flywheel (the ball) with the distributor clocked at TDC? Or is 16 degrees of centrifugal advance at the distributor, 16 degrees BTDC at the flywheel with the distributor clocked at TDC? I always assumed that for the most part, the advance curves in the blue book for models and specific distributors for these models reflect a combination of centrifugal and vacuum advance, (tii distributors with no vacuum pod being the exception). So if a Tii distributor has a max centrifugal of 16 degrees and no vacuum pod, and 16 degrees is 32 degrees at flywheel or 16 degrees is 16 degrees at the flywheel, how does it get 25 degrees at 2400 RPM or 2700 RPM (US Version)? Is 2700 RPM the approximate speed to see the "all-in" centrifugal advance based on the stock weights and springs, (this seems to be the RPM used at the top values of the advance curve)? If 16 degrees at the distributor is 32 degrees at the flywheel, we are way over the blue book 25 degree at 2700 RPM, if 16 degrees at the distributor is 16 degrees at the flywheel we are way under the blue bool 25 degrees at 2700 RPM. My guess is that 16 degrees at the distributor is 32 degrees at the flywheel and 16 degrees is the mechanical limit of advance, but the springs and weight in the Ti distributor restrict the advance to 12.5 degrees or 25 degrees at the flywheel. Mark92131


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