Sign in to follow this  
  • entries
    5
  • comments
    13
  • views
    482

About this blog

More than 15 years ago, I was living in L.A., and my 1973 2002 had been reported as a "gross polluter" by some nimrod tree hugger, because it was blowing smoke on decel.  I needed to get it fixed to avoid a second citation, but apartment living meant I did not have space to work on it myself, so I took it to a well known 02 specialist to have an in-bay refresh done on the bottom end, and install a rebuilt cylinder head.  Not even 6 months after the work was done, the bottom end developed a death rattle and I had to park the car.  That was the last time it moved under its own power.  Through various moves over 15 years I have often thought I should just sell off the pieces I had collected, but my wife would always refuse to let me sell.  She knew I would regret not having my little '02, so we have hauled the shell and all the parts around all these years.  I can't thank my wife enough for being so steadfast in keeping it.

 

This blog is all about the rebuild journey of my 1973 2002.  The goal is to complete it as a resto-mod that can be daily driven, but is track focused.  There will be some pretty unique stuff going on, and I am super excited about how it will all turn out.

Entries in this blog

 

Engine Parts = Sexiness!!!!

At this stage in the game, the complete head, block and crank are all at the machine shop just waiting for the rest of the parts to show up.  My machinist will be getting some custom piston rings made, as he has his own special recipe for increasing efficiency.  He also did not want to start cutting on anything, until he had pistons in hand, so he could be 100% sure of every measurement we are working with.  To that end, allow me to present a veritable smorgasbord of M10 engine internals.     The laundry list of parts includes a Cometic head gasket (.066” thick), ARP head studs, Glyco main bearings, and coated Calico bearings for the rods.  There’s also some super sexxxxxxxxxy, Pauter 4340 connecting rods (144mm), and a set of custom JE Pistons for the build.     The one part left to really think about is the camshaft.  I will be asking Elgin cams to give me a custom grind, tailored to the needs of this build.                                                                                              

DaHose

DaHose

 

On to the cylinder head

I did a lot of deliberating and discussing with my machinist before committing to the full internals parts list for the build.  Now the bits-n-pieces are starting to come in, but the pistons and rings will take some time to get made.    Sooooooo....... the first assembly to get some love will be the cylinder head.  The pile of parts below will soon make for one, well built up cylinder head.  That's a set of stainless VAC valves, HD dual springs, and rocker locks, along with the KM Cams forged steel rockers.    

DaHose

DaHose

 

Next Steps - Internals for the Engine

After going over the mechanical parts, my machinist found a non-repairable crack in the crank.  So after a few weeks of searching, I purchased a stock dimension 2 liter crank from 02 forum member pjp90.     I also picked up a set of forged steel rockers from KM Cams in Sweden.   More hard parts are on their way as well.  

DaHose

DaHose

 

Engine Damage Triage

Ok.  Now that the engine is completely apart, the full scope of the damage is clear and next steps can be planned out.   Here you can see that the bearings are all worn, and the #1 conrod. journal is roasted.  Remember that this is an engine with less than 5000 miles on it since the bottom end rebuild.   For good measure, here is a closeup of the burned journal, then one of the main bearings ( #1 on L).     This is what the conrod bearings looked like (#1 on L).     The block and crank are now at a local machine shop getting cleaned up.  The block is fine, but I need to wait and hear if the crank is salvageable, or if I need to buy a good used one.  I also had some preliminary discussion about replacing the conrods with something that can survive turbo HP, and that is looking like it will have an OUCH price tag of around $1500 for the set of 4.   Jose

DaHose

DaHose

 

Day 1 - Inspecting the carnage

I have decided that the place to start is the engine.    First off, let me tell you that if you don't have a 1/2" cordless impact, you NEED to get one.  This jobbie was $225 on sale at Harbor Freight.  It performs as well as tools that cost three times as much.     When I took off the head, it looked good, and the pistons don't show any real signs of wear or skirt slap.     Everything will be cataloged, bagged, and stored in separate bins, but here is the whole inventory after initial teardown of the block.     Jiggling things around, I found that cylinder number one was rattling around at the crank end of the con-rod.  Removing just that piston from number one revealed spun bearings, and a scored crank.  The surprise is that while there is scoring, it is not deep and there must still have been good oil feed, because there is no discoloration.     The bearing is all beat up too.  The coating is gone, and pieces are chipped off.     This is what the conrod big end looks like.  It also shows no bluing, but I am not a fan of machining conrods.    My plan is to pull the crank, and take it to an excellent machine shop we have here in town.  I will rely on their feedback as to whether we can save my crank, or if a replacement is the way to go.  Either way, I think I see H-beam conrods with ARP hardware in my future, because I plan to make this a boosted engine build.  If all the pistons look good (which I expect they should), my plan is to ceramicoat them, but a forged set of JE's sure is tempting.   One last thing, that aforementioned well known shop also did this.  What you see is the rear oil seal carrier with one 10mm head bolt (M6X16) as original, but also a 13mm head bolt of unknown size stuffed in on the right.      So it looks like the shop mechanic stripped the hole out on the rear seal cover, and "fixed" it by cramming in a larger bolt.  This kind of thing is why I prefer to do everything myself.  I don't need to pay someone to break my stuff.  I can break it just fine on my own, for FREE.  At any rate, this is where we stand today.  

DaHose

DaHose

Sign in to follow this