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Lets see how this turns out, shall we?


As I turn the key for the 1st time, it just....WAIT, WAIT, WAIT... lets back up a bit.


My 1st BMW drive was 20 years ago in a E21. I was hooked! But it wasn't until Hurricane Katrina that I realized that my SUV was sucking in too much gas and I should look for something a little more efficient. Plus I wanted a new project. I have always liked the E30 with a passion Ever since about 1990. So I purchased on completely stock  and brought it up to what I have always envisioned. I installed all the go fast bits and a M50 swap. It sure was fun


That was a great car but while I had it, I lusted for a cabrio, so I went to find one and build it to my liking.


Kinda thinking of something else and found this at a farm and brought it back to life.


I sold the Coupe and the MT2 cabrio. I did complete write-ups on them on r3vlimited.


Enough of E30s. Ive been going to The Vintage for 12 years and have always lusted for a 02. Since my cabrio was were I liked it, I became bored as its was pretty much done and has been for several years. I have been on the fence on kicking it to the curb but I haven't been able to do it.


I happen to be driving downtown Raleigh when I spot this lil gal on the side of the road with a city sticker on it that read register it or it gets towed on it. As found...




It just needed a good home. The owner was not living in the area but I was persistent in finding him. A few knocks on some doors lead me to someone that had his number. I called, we met, agreed on a price, and I towed her home.




The facts as of then. Non running 1972 2002, 4 speed with a aftermarket sunroof, AC car. Sahara respray with only 2 holes, one on the passenger side door and spare wheel compartment. Came with small records, original tool kit, and a 32/36 carb in literally 100 pieces. The PO said it did not run good and he decided to tackle the carb rebuild himself. Im assuming he ran out of time and steam so it just sat there. Carbs are new to me but I was up for a challenge.

Once I got it home I powerwashed it and scrubbed as much as could to really she what Im working with. Plenty of potential!



Time to start ordering parts.

Entries in this blog


Ive been dreading doing the tension bushings because it looked like a serious task but it had to be done. I could move it with my hands and it was so very noticeable on the road. What was in it was some sort of poly bushings and they did not fit at all. Im not even sure they ever did when some PO installed them. It was very loose. New parts to install though (both sides of course)...


Anyways, what I had to deal with.




The passenger side came out with breeze with air tools but the drivers side gave me hell! PB just laughed at the sleeve from the bushings.



 I had to cut a notch in it and use heat. Stubborn!!!


But eventually I beat it off. These were the old that were removed.


I fashioned this bolt to put the bushing on. I thought this was going to be a PITA to get on but they were pretty simple with a little grease and force.


Next was taking the rest apart. This was what I had to deal with. Safety wire is there but this doesn't like right. 8( The stabilizer bar bushings needs to be tightened when putting back together.


What I found. At least it isn't rusty. These came off easy with air.


Old and new.




Next was safety wire. Im sure I can do better than a PO so I bought a lifetime supply of 0.032" wire. No my intension to buy so much but its all I can get my hands on.


Stories of those special screws coming loose kinda scared me so I put some red lock tight on. I don't plan on removing them again so I went with it.

All laced up, I hope this good to go.


Crap for picture but all tightened up.


While I had the car in the air, I decided to loose some altitude so I cut a 1 1/3 of the coil off the front. All I wanted to do was level the front and back. I got a bit more but It looks right to me.



I was told that the doors will not close correctly unless these little tabs are in. Well, they didn't work so I guess me door seals are too far gone. Maybe another day.









Ever since I got the car running, the gas smell has been way too much for me to handle. Its to the point that even a short drive around the block yields me straight to the showers!

I removed the trunk panels to reveal what looks like a 71 tank. Is this a sign that something is up from a PO? Hmm...


My IMG_9909.thumb.jpg.75e1a46adc54ce47969b629188a1a0d2.jpg

1st tactic was to fix the obvious. Black electrical tape around the filler neck...this can not be good and a sure source of fumes.


It was cracked badly. I can see why this fix was tried because at $80 for a new part was a bit steep. I bought a brand new one as well as the sending unit o-ring. Thanks Steve!


 and installed t he neck. That gasket was a bugger to keep straight!


Another spin around the block yielded no change with the gas smell. Grrr....

So I then addressed the sending unit o-ring. The old one was not too squared but replaced anyway.


Again, not the pix. Still smells like gas. Frustrating!

More reading lead s me to double check the small sleeve between the sending hose and metal spout. I took another look to find that there was in fact a crack on this plastic sleeve. Ah ha!




So I bought a new one.


That little bugger did not want to go on no matter what I tried...and it didn't have it! Cracked!!!


After a few choice words I got back on FAQ and tried to figure out another plan. This came up with another solution which was to cut off some of the plastic vapor hose in the sleeves place. I cut about an 1" of hose just in case the hose is bad and tighted it up.


And what do know...this STILL didn't work. The smell is still there. Im done with this for right now.

It really cant be this hard!







Wassup! While trying to diagnose why my flasher was working very intermittently, I read that a electronic flasher was an upgrade. Sure, cheap enough to throw a part in it to see if this was a fix without checking other possibilities. So I ordered one.


I made a harness to attach onto the OEM connector and mounted it close to where the old one was.


This worked very well. It has a nice sound. But, the front light were not working so I took a closer look. What I found was a head scratcher. It looks like a hot glue gun and ziptie party in the lense.


These had obviously had it! A few days of searching on FAQ found me to a nice pair of used US spec lenses. Top is what the car came with, bottom is the newish.





I am totally pleased! I had to roll all the lights to work as it should be they work! Hazards....not so much. Im sure thats a wiring problem...for another day.




As I mentioned in a different blog of mine, I bought some BWA Sportray wheels 13x6 et13. I happen to find a few pix of them with gold centers and I really dug them. So went to a light restoring of these. ready for paint removal.


These wheels were in great condition and the paint did come off with ease for the most part. Ive done a set of euroweaves before and those were a PITA compared to these. The lips were machined and looked good cleaned up but it would take more time to get them fully polished.




Waiting to mount the 205/60/13 Federal 595s on.


The difference will be amazing...I hoped.


I knew when I bought these wheels that the caps were different but from what im reading, caps are hard enough to find. At least I have some. For reference on the difference.



And mounted up.



I also put electrical tape on the grill slats to freshen up the front end.




I just couldn't bring myself to spending $130 for 2 little light/housing to illuminate my license plate so I looked for other options. This is what I came up with.


I believe that these trailer lights are made by a few companies but I got the dimensions and they were off from the OEM by just a few mm. I decided for the price, Id give it a try. It just happen that my local Advanced Auto had one. So, I bought it for measurement and it was close enough to buy a pair. I found these online for $10 to my door.


In the pkg...


mocked up.







Sure, they are not OEM or as slick looking but geez, for $10, im alright with these. I did have to drill into the body to accept the new mounting points but minor in the grand scheme of things. A little primer to control rust.


Once, bolted up and wired in, Im totally happy with the results. I still need to trim the lens to fit better on the gasket. Ill get to that sometime.










Wheels and cleaning.

While I was waiting for the driveshaft, I decided to replace the transmission fluid as I have no history of its maintenance. So I popped the drain plug off....



I took the fill plug off to see at least it was full. It was a bit low.  Drain plug was doing its job though.





 And new fluids. Its nice to know that little things like this have been taken care of.



Mike Pugh has been a great resource of info! He had some lenses around that would help my 2002 not look so faded.



I was not fond on the polka-doted headliner so I gave it a good scrub. Before...


after... its better at least.



And the Wheels? Well, even though they had what looked to be 10 year old tires, I put them on because im no fan of the bcaps. They held air and they were good enough to get around the block. No rubbing yet but close enough to need a little roll.






With some research on these wheels, BWA has a few wheels that works on these lil BMWs. What im not a fan of is the center knob of the center wheel. Some of me wants to grind down that knob flush with the rest of the wheel. Then I would like to paint them with gold centers like this...


...with maybe polished lips. Replacement tires are in the mail so I may just keep them as they are until im done getting it road worthy.

I don't get too much big chunks of time to spend on this project but a little cleaning goes a long way. Little by little it gets cleaned up.

Going from this...


to this with a toothbrush and soap.



Biggest jobs ahead is control are bushings and wondering if I truly need a new heater blower fan...ew.


Driveshaft and stuff

while driving around the block a few times, I experienced vibration under load so naturally I accused the guibo and maybe the CSB. So I ordered some more parts from Blunttech. Also in the pile is a new coolant hose, guibo bolts, and an accelerator pedal bearing.



While I was getting help from my new 2002 friend Mike Pugh, he noticed while replacing my CSB, that my ujoints were bad. But Mike had connections and was able to find me a good used condition driveshaft. The CSB was replaced with the new. Odd that I don't have a pic of that.


I went to an E30 Ofest, an old friend of mine had a small stash of 2002 parts and he had this seat collecting dust in his garage and offered it up to me. Its only one and its a drivers side Recaro. Im not sure what Im going to do with it. It would be a crazy find to find its mate or another like it. As of now, all I have this drivers recaro, passenger E21 sport, and a E21 passenger, non sport. My garage buddy seems to like it at the moment.



My 2002 came with E30 bottle caps. I was on the fence on what wheels to replace these with but the bcaps HAD TO GO! Do I go with 15 or stay period correct? Another E30 friend that is also into 2002, Scott, had these 13x6, BWA sportrays with expired 205/60/13 et13 that I thought were kinda cool. So I took them home. Here they are next to the bcaps.




These should look pretty cool. May hafta to do fender rolling though.


When I bought the car, I had no idea that a shifter can feel so loose. Really, up down every which way with no gear selected. I bought the shifter rebuild kit from Blunttech and installed. I was a bit leery when Steve said this small kit will make it feel like new...but he was right...ish.



Still play but Im coming out of a re built E30 trans with short shifter and my daily has new 6 speed. I now can feel each gear tough. Not too bad of a job. I did not have to remove the driveshaft. When it came to the brace, blunttech sells the bushing that Condor supplies. Taking out the rest of the original bushing sleeve needed a saw to cut it out. Installation needed some persuasion to get back in the hole but that worked.










Exhaust me.

When I bought the car the muffler was in the trunk. The mid section looked pretty bad aswell and some sort of very non oem looking thing. So I ordered the Ansa midpipe and muffler with the hanging kit from Blunttech.


The PO bought a new transmission mount that he left in a box of goodies that came with the car. So I bolted that up.


What I knew I needed. A carb. I was not about to rebuild something I have no idea what its all about. But which one? A call to Steve at Bluntech gave me an option for a slight upgrade from stock. Sure that 38/38 Outlaw has a nice ring to it! I take one of them. Then, it was off to see what I actually did buy. Since this a totally different animal than the E30, there learning curve would be a bit steep so I was just looking for plug and play. Well, that was not the case. I did receive the carb in good condition and with its parts.



The picture on the Redline website showed more parts such as the correct spacer needed to clear the new 38mm barrels. Ok, so I took of the old spacer only to find an oval on the intake mani instead of the 2 holes. I thought I would have to hog out some new diameters but with research, I read there there was an upgradable intake that looked just like the one I had. A bit of a reach around, under the intake reviled that I had a Cannon intake. Score! What other goodies do I have to need an upgraded intake. This is what I started with...


BTW, my Weber kit DID NOT include the 38/38 spacer as pictured in the ad from redline. The original linkage would not work with this new carb. I had to order that separately. . 


Well, I was thinking, why not try it on for size...only to find out that my linkage will not work and the and the U joint that I thought was included was not. Until I figured out how to work the linkage, I decided to connect it up and see if I can get it started just outta the box. Gave it a start. My car has not run in at least a year so not too big of a shock, A little diagnose and I had no spark. Once I replaced, timed, and gapped all ignition components, it started 1st crank! I did not adjust the carb and idled excellent. Once I received the linkage from IE and the U joint from Pegasus, I was able to drive it for the 1st time and with good power. But all isn't well as the new linkage rubs on the heater hose.


I believe its suppose to be like this... 



but I have this...



Im looking for a solution now for the hose. I just wanted to share my upgrade and what I have learned. In my situation, the carb worked right out of the box. Tuning is next and also to find out exactly what is in the carb.

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