I had plenty of time to work on the 1600 over spring break. Honestly, I thought I’d get more done, but making sure the flares blended nicely with minimal body filler took time and effort.
Below is a rear IE flare blended and painted with a high build urethane primer. I left the edges unpainted for now. There’s a couple spots where I cut through the epoxy primer surface and I want to repaint those areas with more epoxy.
I still have some fine tuning to do on the fro
A car is a lot more compact when it is all put together. Parts take up a lot of space. This is the expensive part. I’m trying my best to limit that but sometimes you don’t have a choice. Other times, you do and still decide financial burden. I mean, reuse all the old (perfectly fine) crappy components on a freshly painted car? I can’t bring myself to do it. However, I can reel myself time to time in the name of expediency and frugality(a real word?).
I have been quite busy since the last
I had everything prepped for pulling the engine way back in late fall, but it took till now to finally plucked the motor. One part of that delay was that it took some time to rustle up the hoist from my buddy. Once I had that piece of gear in place it took another good chunk of time to have my friend on hand for moral and technical support since I had never pulled an engine before.
We finally planned to get together on a warm Friday last week, and I was all set for the big day. I
Welp, in my last post I was pretty excited about grafting my original front fender with replacement metal from a W&N fender. For a month I worked on the driver/front fender whenever I had spare time (about 12 hours total) only to realize that the top horizontal edge began to angle downward as you moved from the door to the turn signal. A big bummer.
Not dwelling on the mishap I immediately bought another fender from W&N and had it on my doorstep in four days.
So cuz it was cheap. A lie of all lies right?
I bought a seized engine out of 2021 F40 BMW M135i xdrive, 225 kW. Will this jorney ever lead to fruitation as in means of suplying a force to move a vehicle I do not know. I consider this a mental health project
First i stripped wiring harness and a few water hoses off and then it was time to remove oil pan for inspection. Rod bearings were toasted! #3 was worst. Mains looked fine but this was just caps off so no idea of upper shells
So after getting an old oxy acetylene welding setup and ruining a scrap door trying to learn how to weld with it, we have officially started welding up our Cattle Chaser! Started with the nose panel, there was a rusted spot which we cut out and tacked in the new piece of sheet metal.
Afterwards, all the gaps were filled and the nose panel set aside for the time being. Next it was time for that rear end!
I had the chance to visit a friend of mine over the wee
Hello! My name is Geghard Ohanian, or "G" for short, and I am the owner of Heritage Gruppe. Two years ago, during a road trip with my girlfriend and business partner Alynn, we discussed the idea of finding an old car to restore. Without hesitation, I started searching Craigslist for any cool projects that we could revive. It was then that I stumbled upon a rusted, beat-up 1969 BMW 1600 project listed for sale in Nipomo, a city a few hours north of Los Angeles. Although the photos were low resolu
Well got around to installing the trunk pan and tail, original was hit before I got it, plus rust… so figured it just replace it all.
it wasn’t too bad, I got the MVP pan and tail, only minor adjustments were needed. The biggest issue was the tail had been replaced before so when I removed it the gap was signification from rear quarter to tail. I decided to weld it on inside as well as outside and will have a seamless look.
So, after sorting out the S14 flywheel, clutch, pressure plate clearance issue with the Getrag 245 transmission debacle, I decided that it would be wise to test fit the motor/trans and subframe installation and see if any adjustments would be needed. Well, turns out adjustments are needed. First off, while lifting the subframe, motor and trans on the motor jack while subsequently lowering the car it turns out that S14 header and the steering box hang-up on the inside lip of the frame rails on
BMW m10 Piston Stress Test(u30)
The pressure is 75kgs-cm2, which
corresponds to the pressure at the maximum power of a standard motor. the weight of the piston is 602 grams, the material is alloy 2818-T61
the analysis showed that the maximum stress is formed at the edge where the locking ring stands, the yield strength is not exceeded for this material. The maximum displacement of the material was 0.025 mm, on the piston heat belt.
the yield strength is exceeded at a pressure on the
I don't have the illusions that I'm some kinda experienced shade tree mechanic. In fact, most everything about this project that I'm encountering on a day to day basis is some kind of first time moment. I hope this gives a little optimism to gals and guys looking to get into maintaining old cars and maybe they think they're not fit or smart enough or experienced to take on a challenge and learn something new.
I've decided for a car that needs everything phase 1 will be rebuilding the
I'm still plugging away at the '67 1600.
I didn't like the fitment of the front pig cheek fenders, so I decided to blend them into the metal front fenders. Unfortunately, my original fenders were rotted around the turn signal housing and rocker panel. The W&N replacement fender was ok, but did not fit as nicely as the OG. Then I had the genius idea of using the W&N fender as a donor to bring the original up to snuff.
I am a real amateur at welding and body work,
I finally did it. I've been wanting a 2002 for years. After having kids and starting a new career, life is finally settling into a more predictable routine and after some searching I managed to find a 73 locally. The owner was asking $20k on CL. I reached out and mentioned how inflated the price was, he agreed and said he wanted to keep the riff raff away and knew that it would sell for less. Here's a couple shots from the advertisement:
When I came to look at it, it was idlin
I've slowing been working my way to understand why the motor is stuck. After working the crank back and forth and trying just about every penetrating oil out there I decided next step is to pull the head. Every night I'd chip away. Remove a part. Bag and tag it. I've never really gone beyond replacing a water pump so this is new depths for me. Thanks to this site and the trusty haynes manual it's a fairly straight forward process. The results of the stuck pistons and the condition of the valves
Your car has a story. Whether it came with one that you're continuing or didn't and you're starting fresh. The story is the bond between you and the machine. It's the thing you share every time someone asks you about it. Sure there's the gas station shorter version but there's also the full directors cut that you love sharing to anyone interested in hearing. If you're thinking it's BS go to a car show and walk past the folks sitting behind their cars in folding chairs with a photobook proudly st
The day I found the car on BringATrailer I kinda had the feeling that this was "the one". I wasn't necessarily looking for an example in such sad shape as this one but I'm a sucker for a good candidate - which this one I believe is. I decided to buy the car from the original owner here in VA and as it turned out he paid the same price for it in 69' as I did with my winning bid...$3,700.
Since the car has been parked since 1979 the underside has not seen the east coast salt as much as
So closing stages of gettiing M2 back on the road I wanted to adjust rear drums…
Alert! Mission creep.
Those shoe adjustment things were solid. Buggers didn’t wanna move no matter what. Then i thought f ’em, I’ll go disc.
Many have done this & kits are available but after shipping & taxes cost would be too much. Because hobby I put tinkering mode on and went diy.
Called local chop chop if they had VW golf 3 or 4 rear calibers. Not surpisingly they did. Went to
I haven't posted in a while, but I've made some progress towards getting the engine mounted in the subframe and the subframe reattached to the car. First off, the flywheel debacle is finally complete. My 2 week flywheel lightening project at IE took over a month to return, (my fault for expecting a quick turnaround during the Thanksgiving break). Then there was the issue of the 22mm vs 28mm ARP flywheel bolts, ordering the wrong size (needed 28mm version) set me back $75 and 2 weeks. But wit
After the car completed its transformation with Paul at The Son Of Cobra, the car got moved across town to Ronin Autowerks where Matt worked with me to get some mods to the body completed.
First up was a weld in roll bar. Matt and the team at Ronin build the bolt in roll bars for IE so they already have the roll bars down. I asked for some customization as I wanted it tied into the rear strut towers for additional stiffness. Originally the plan was to do a roll bar with
2017's theme: The more I learned the intricacies of the cars, the more I wanted to learn. The more parts I found, the more parts I wanted to find.
Looking back on my phone at photos taken in 2017, I almost laugh at how naive and enthusiastic I was.
My car was running and driving but it had almost no interior and everything rattled around like a spray can. I wanted to collect the parts I needed to make it complete, and a year in, I was already thinking about buying another 02