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About Djthom

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  1. Thanks. Ive done some more reading and that appears to be the case. I probably have V6 rather than V7 cone. My plan was to rebuild to a stock euro configuration with the higher compression pistons. I wonder how much impact the cone difference would have under those conditions
  2. Hi All My 73tii has a 74tii engine installed. I have the original stripped long block missing all of its tii parts. I am planning to rebuild the original engine and use the tii parts from the 74tii engine. My question is around the injection pump. It's tag number is PL04-124.02 which corresponds to a 74 pump per lists on the forum. In James Taylor's Restoration Reference on page 131 he states the Model 74 cars had a different injection pump than earlier types. Are there in fact significant differences? Did they all use the V7 control cones? If I rebuild my 73 engine with the higher compression Euro pistons will I be OK running this 74 pump? Many thanks Darren
  3. Hi All. My car has a replacement 1974 tii engine 2781974 installed. I'm fortunate to have the original engine that I'm going to rebuild and install. Just posting in case someone down the road is looking for their lost matching engine....
  4. What were the original pads made of? Mine got a bit hot today and were smoking a bit. I assume that was just years of oil burning off but I'm wondering what else I might have been breathing. Did they contain asbestos?
  5. Could someone post the dimensions of the warm up regulator come retainer tool so I can make one? I've already made the others as indicated above and saved the big bucks.
  6. The synchros turned out to be ok well within spec. But the rear flange nut was loose. By tightening it, I could see the engagement with 2nd gear was improved. All back together and works great. I wish I had taken the advice in a couple of these posts and checked that nut before I took gearbox out and tore it apart.
  7. Yes I have. Actually initially I removed that and thought the problem went away for a few minutes but it returned sadly. Wouldnt that have been a sweet fix!
  8. Hi All I have an issue where the gearbox jumps out of 2nd gear but only on deceleration and only when the oil gets hot. I have Redline MTL oil and all of the shift linkage and gearbox mount bushings are new. It does not crunch either up shifting or down shifting normally, but when it falls out of gear and I try to engage 2nd I do often get a crunch. This has been discussed before in various ways and I've read all those posts but was wondering if the hot oil only condition might narrow down what I need to do. Synchro, shift fork, other? Thanks for the help Darren
  9. Thanks. I think it's more than reasonable price. I need to thin the herd. I'm going to miss it. So enjoyable to have a daily driver classic!
  10. Selling my 74 only because I found a 73tii. Good solid reliable driver. Some corrosion in rockers and rear wheel wells. No reserve auction https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254333893913
  11. Thanks guys. Car has VIN stamp, under hood VIN plate and steering column VIN plate. Also numbers matching so engine stamping too
  12. Hi All In the process of selling my car, some prospective buyers have asked me about registering a 1973 tii in California. Is it exempt from smog? Besides the ownership/title staying it is a 73 and then email from BMW stating its build date, is there any other formal documentation required to get exempt? Maybe someday I will be lucky enough to be registering all my cars in the sunshine Thanks. Darren
  13. Thanks. I fixed my 74 yesterday so I'm not distracted with that task
  14. All fixed with 65psi at idle. I believe the incorrectly installed oring was the root cause in the end. I lost a few weeks of driving but I'm glad it happened when it did and now I have new gaskets on the front of the engine and the pan. If you're reading this please use it as a reminder to make sure your check oil light bulb is working and not burnt out
  15. Hi Mike, I did crack the fitting to see if any oil was there but nothing. I think I know what happened. The bent oil pan baffle and missing bolt on the pickup hanger of the oil pump suggests the PO had it apart before. I didnt have to raise the engine to get the sump off. The o ring on the little pipe had some telltale indentations that look like it was pinched. I think they may have put the o ring in the body of the pump rather than on the pipe when last installed. I opened and cleaned the pump. Resealed it. Made an adapter to spin the rotor with my drill and its pumping oil. So I'm going to assume it was the oring incorrectly installed which gave way and put back together when I get my gasket set.

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