Hello fellow engine compartment gazers....
I know I can probably score 75% on this test but rather than that I figured I would ask you all which holes you would absolutely fill before I paint. Note the drivers side front radiator cut out is larger than normal I know that - I may have the shop fix that so my radiator no longer needs the flanges I made for it. My gut tells me to make it original size by adding the four inches back in t
moving along this is to show the inner panel needed patching.
Here are the panels from W&N - .0277 thick. p/n A41 35 1 855 113
Hood looks great... down to the metal
Rear deck needed a bit more effort - was hard to close due to latch not properly tensioned - PO must have slammed his hands down on it one to many times
Rear panel looking good too! Removed a bunch of extra bondo from PO
Hey all - looking good. You can see the W&N patch panels for the outer wheel wells are clamped in - they are waiting for the inners from me.
The dent in passenger door is removed.
Drivers door sanded and primed.
Drivers rear QP waiting for patch panel inner and outer. Rear panel sanded and my patch panel finished by the pro's.
Hood and Deck Lid sanding away the old paint to bare m
Hey all -
I finally chose a body shop for my project.
G & M in San Bruno, CA- competitive pricing and some expert references and a super clean and efficient body shop.
And today the owner gave me that dreaded first call! Not so bad! Just need to get some more patch panels from W&N!
So good news for sure. I hope things move along faster than quoted - 6 mos.
Today I removed the fenders to check and see how bad the rust is on the pillar. Not Bad!!! Great news.
I was pretty anxious to tackle the leaded joint up front. I mean I have taken so many fenders off cars - dodge dart, plymouth valliant, vw Bug, (never a ghia though) and NONE of them had a leaded joint!
OK so I started there first. ground off the paint to see only shiny metal - got out a pic and sure enough it was soft.
Then I got out the h
Since I am getting brave on the exterior I decided to open up the next can of worms. The quarter-panel. Besides W&N is having a sale!
This was my first quarter on this car and I had no idea what I was getting into - could not really tell from inside what was behind it - and the manual was vague to me too- just some vague ideas from a guy named Barney and his Ceylon in the FAQ. Thanks Barney!!! 🙂
So I went for it. What you see here is me cutting open the rusty panel and find
Here is what was to me my first exterior panel work. It was fun and easier than I thought. I am done with it and will let the painter finish up the detail. No more rust. A member Coloincaalpine donated the sheetmetal from a donor car. Here is the donor panel... I lined up the two factory holes with my rear panel factory holes and did some eyeballing of the lines for what seemed like hours.
Then I cut out the rust and clamped the panel behind scribed it, cut the shape I needed out the
I am moving from bit to bit on the car shell these days. Getting ready to roll it out for paint. When I bought the car five years ago a friend pointed out how the exhaust was not correct. I was a bit miffed since I did not know that about the car.
Well in a quick effort last night I started to pick at it and noticed the patch was brazed in!
So with a little heat and a pair of pliers - off it came!
Here it is removed.
Tackling the bottom of the spare tire well. Several spots of rust... Circled with a marker.
So... had to fabricate sheetmetal with a groove pressed in for rigidity. I've got a lot to go in terms of shaping and cutting to size but wanted to post the first day of effort here.
Had a blast dreaming this process up. I used my arbor press, routered out piece of plywood and a piece of hardwood as the press. Came out pretty well.
This weekend I tackled what no sane person would ever do. I removed the tar undercoat by the previous owner (the carpet in the cover shot is long gone) from the inside of my trunk! Used Lacquer Thinner and Adhesive Remover and a plastic putty knife with much luck. VERY pleased to report very little body work underneath. Good news for when we strip the car - now I can have the trunk shot too.
When I get more braver I will tackle the rust on the fenders - not much but a few spots
Now that the dolly is on I am stripping the car down to the shell to ready for paint. Most everything is off the car now. Struggled more than I would like to get that chrome off the doors by the glass. Some minor (I hope) rust spots and then to the paint shop for some 2 stage (?) Agave! This car was sprayed once with Agave darkened a bit. I will bring to original Agave. Have not found any bondo but I know there is some here and there.
A tricky rust spot under the left rear
Getting my car ready for paint. Thanks to Bart at TheRestoShop for recommending Tom at O2again for a dolly. Hats off to Tom@ O2again for the plans to make my dolly! All went well! Thanks Tom!!!
-got the plans
-ordered the materials from McMaster
-without the hard tooling I did some improvising too 🙂.
-done in a weekend - and a bonus- pulled the rear subframe...
-started the stripping down to bare shell for paint!
Previous owner poked holes in the tunnel to get wires through i guess. I just do not see the wisdom and did not want the fumes / sound in the cabin. Tried a trick I saw during my umpteen thousand test welds during my covid welding course. It worked! Butt welds are tough for sure. You make a piece to fit over the hole and tack it on. Then you take your trusty Dremmel thin cut blade and cut around the edge of your piece and push your piece in and tack it in flush.
Not a great
Moving on to the other few spots of rust on the car - this one was under the heater box. Was a fun project - took about 3 hours. Notice the rust gets worse as you go from left to right - I replaced the entire section to remove all the rust. Those two cut holes are from air conditioning I removed. Yes it is time for a new fuel line and vent line.
Here is the piece of metal I fabricated and welded in. The butt welds are by far the hardest. The Rosettes are easy.
My fit-up number umpteen - going well. front to rear location, shock tower location, floor pan location all good. getting ready to plug weld all the holes from drilling out the previous brake fluid rotted rail. Once those are plugged I plan to fit in the rail once more and weld it in. Nice working with such a solid California car - no rust in the pan or any other portions along this mount up. I would say the most difficult fit area was here where the fire wall meets the floor pan and the ne