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kbmb02

Kugelfischer
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  1. Here’s what a collapsed and damaged upper spring retainer/perch looks like (you can see the witness mark of the two pieces rubbing together). -KB
  2. I happen to be doing this today, and photo documenting the rebuild... When the strut bearing/mounts are installed and tightened down, the bearing should rotate freely. If it binds - or doesn’t move - it can be caused by: 1) hardware not installed correctly 2) the bearing on some aftermarket units is not pressed to the correct depth 3) a collapsed upper spring retainer/perch (‘hat’) When all is correct, it typically looks like this (note the gap between the bottom of the strut bearing and the top of the perch. When it’s bad, the bottom of the strut bearing rubs/rides on the perch. -KB
  3. ^ That's pretty-much it. I'll add that the coupling assembly is sided; on the side of the coupler which attaches to the steering box, the through-bolt is offset to fit within and capture the groove on the steering box shaft. (In my experience, there's no need to mark the shaft/depth on that side, as the coupler slides on the 'right' amount until the bolt will go through.) There's a procedure for the other end of the coupler assembly - having to do with the spring at the steering-wheel-end of the steering shaft - which I won't try to articulate. -KB
  4. I use plastic floats in DGV-based carbs (32/26 and 38/38) - by using one type, it’s easier for me to remember/compare float level. Is that a valid reason? Maybe. Apparently there’s a weight spec for plastic floats, which I may now investigate. -KB
  5. Have you ever come across a fuel-logged Weber DGV plastic float? I’ve probably taken apart hundreds, and have yet to find one in that condition (of course, that doesn’t mean it hasn’t / can’t happen). I have found a couple of brass floats full of fuel. -KB
  6. Accepting help in indentification - thanks. -KB
  7. Thanks, @jgerock - I will post photos and let the experts identify. -KB
  8. There are times I purchase and install a kit or part for a 2002 and think, “that’s a superb part” or, “folks should know there are challenges with this” or “it’s bad - nobody else should buy this.” @steve k. Is there / have you considered a separate section in the forum where members can post feedback on specific vendor products? With, perhaps, a rating function? Create tags for vendors so they can get noticies of posts and then gloat / reply / fix the part?
  9. The later units come in two flavors; some with all brass guts, some with plastic (images below are plastic, obviously). On this one, both plastic pieces were intact; if you find the same, then replace the two o-rings and reassemble. -KB
  10. Thanks, @JMMcR75 The purchase of this steering wheel will nudge my Bavaria project forward. -KB (photo on the day I picked it up)
  11. In my experience, aftermarket 38/38 throttle rods are not always built to proper dimensions for the application; as you noted, the arm is not positioned correctly, and interferes with the heater hoses (also, inspect the weld point - they sometimes break). I’ll add that it looks like your heater core return hose can be pushed closer to the firewall (loosen clamp, and maybe shorten the hose). It’s not a difficult part to fabricate correctly yourself. I’ve often heard of the 40/40, though never tried one. Seems like a fun rabbit hole to travel through. -KB
  12. I replied to a WTB ad for a set of 1600 (small port) sidedraft manifolds, being fairly-certain I had some. What I found was a complete ti set-up; Solex carbs, manifolds and linkage. Before separating and selling the manifolds separately, I figured I’d check here to see if folks with an original car are looking for a complete set-up. If so, PM or reply ... in the meantime, I’ll shoot some photos. -KB
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