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bluedevils

Alpina
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  1. There are mounting plates with threaded holes (of size 7/16"-20 SAE) that you can weld or rivet under te oparcel shelf. Check out seatbeltplanet, wesco performance, etc. Large fender washers under the parcel shelf can also be used.
  2. They can be re-webbed but 90% of the time rear belts will just need a good cleaning as mentioned above, especially the retractor side since webbing is protected inside the plastic housing; use 50/50 mixture of Down and water and a clean towel. You can clean the female portions in a dish washer as well, make sure wife is not around... When done, put a few drops of sewing machine oil on each side of the spool that holds the webbing inside the retractor. Re-webbing the retractor is a complex process, especially with old OE Autoflug and Repa retractors. I avoid doing that most of the time unless webbing is trashed, even made a few fellows angry when I refused to reweb the retractors since webbing was in like-new condition, needing only a good cleaning. P.S. Australia used to make quality seat belts when Autoliv/Klippan had factories there before they pulled out of market, about 6 may be 8 years ago. I still have some of those NOS front and rear 3 point automatic Autoliv/Klippan sets if anybody is interested (these are the real ones, not US made versions manufactured by the seat-belt cartel🤬).
  3. I don't know what it is called but I need the small bracket that installs on the firewall and has a small (red) support bushing for the Weber/carb throttle rod. Sherman? TIA.
  4. How much is the total with shipping to 27701? thx al
  5. Interested in 2- barrel intake manifold, if still available.
  6. Sold out, but I have other sets (Klippan brand), PM if interested.
  7. More Sunday morning bashing... Hose clamps: many are not original, obvious ones are those on the tii intake boot, fuel filler neck, and heater valve. Seat belts: I could only see the driver side seat belt; male buckle/latch plate has a missing plastic part. Some owners would cut that piece to make the buckle free sliding one, or they were simply broken (Autolflug). I would deduct 2000 dollars from the sale price for those missing parts....
  8. I will remove the damn head this weekend. I can then drill the studs out a lot easier using my drill press and left handed bits, or use the acid method.
  9. OK folks I will try Dremel approach again this weekend as a final attempt. If can't, the head is coming out Sunday. I get depressed if I don't drive my 02 at least once a week, ultimate therapy for mind, free massage for my hands and legs and ...other parts, especially around 3400 RPM.
  10. I tried flux core wire, and mig wire with gas. Same thing, just can't get a a good bite. Maybe studs are corroded inside the head and can't hold a weld, I have a small 90A mig (Lincoln) which may not have enough juice. I have seen people use stick welder, may try to locate one or rent one locally to see if it will make a difference. I will try until the end before removing the head as a last resort.
  11. Studs are broken inside the holes sitting slightly lower than the surface of the head, I already tried welding a nut. I just can't get a good weld because of the limited space between the inner fender and the engine. I can probably get them out If I remove the head which I am trying to avoid obviously. It is a tii head (from my 74 installed on my 73) with a 284 cam so it stays.
  12. I tried every method available, welding a nut, washer, drilling and removing with easy out, left-hand extraction drill bits, watched hundreds of videos, still ended up empty. I want to remove two lower exhaust studs on # 3 and # 4 cylinders without removing the head (exhaust manifold is out already). Any tricks? I know I have to remove the head as a last resort.


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