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Shawn Piper

Solex
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  1. Try buying a used door handle with bad chrome (cheaper!) and cannibalize the door lock. I'd post a want ad since someone on this forum likely has one they want to sell. I might even have one and will check if you're interested.
  2. I'm in San Diego and I had Busy Bees Locksmith do the re-key on my 2002. They have a guy that focuses on older cars and motorcycles. You would want to bring them the door handle separate from the car. The lock comes apart pretty easily if you're feeling adventurous. Here's a how to: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/doorlocks/doorlocks.html
  3. Just because the plastic is stained doesn't mean its blocked. Plastic turns dark brown when in contact with gas. You might see this with carb floats. This example from a Solex carb started off being white. I rehabbed my fuel sender and had the screen zinc plated. The screen is as clean as it will possibly get and it looks like this
  4. Take it to a shop and have it inspected. If they cant repair it for a decent price then I would look for a nice used one or buy new one ($300-500).
  5. I wouldn't use any solvents like acetone. They will likely change the texture of the dash since they soften the vinyl material. Try isopropyl alcohol or a citrus based sticker/decal remover. If you're careful, you might add some heat to speed up the process. Dont scrap at it with anything metal. Plastic spudger tools are cheap and fairly surface safe.
  6. I'm sure you could improvise or 3d print something if you're not particular. In my case, I had a NOS antenna but it came with a later style clip. I ended up buying a cheap, trash antenna for an old style clip. I soaked the clip in Evaporust then had the screw part zinc plated with some other items I was sending out. Turned out really nice. Example newer style Example earlier style
  7. This was a successful weekend project that I wanted to share. Since the pinch welds from my car were really dirty and rusty, I decided to try restoring them. I started out by cleaning them with Simple Green and then soaking them in Evaporust. Afterwards, I tried gently wiping them down with acetone to remove overspray (note that acetone, paint thinner, or any other solvent will easily melt the pinch weld). This is the end product: Its OK, but you can still see some significant staining and discoloration. The ends were also looking unsightly:
  8. Its KiP brand, but there isn't a model # printed on it anywhere. I bought it from Vintage Blau. He's active on these forums too. https://www.ebay.com/sch/vintageblau/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= http://www.vintageblau.com/home.html These moduls seem to be homebrewed or made in small batches but I regularly see them for sale on eBay and the Samba (there was a user selling modules that had a microphone input so you can take calls, which is cool). You are basically looking the for a BT module with a DIN connector and documented support for your
  9. I'm getting pickier since seeing my car's new paint. My previously OK radiator is now starting to look cosmetically unacceptable. I tried to clean it up and spent considerable time straightening the smashed fins with a plastic spudger. Even though I achieved decent results (better with a repaint I'm sure) , I decided to go with a new radiator and keep the old one as a spare. Here's what the old radiator looks like after cleaning. This clearly isn't the radiator that came with my car (due to the fan shroud provisions) but its a genuine BMW part. I original
  10. That's absolutely right. The interior-facing hinge is partially fabric covered but the external hinge is exposed. My seats also didn't have provisions for the chrome eyelets around the headrest posts. The seat rails are also different. Here are my tags, which I kept
  11. The place I sent it to is https://gcartrim.com/ Cost was about $300 shipped, which was considerably less than other places I tried.
  12. So I found a good deal on a TI air cleaner, which inspired me to go dual DCOE with my engine build. My goal is to attach it to the shock tower with a custom Alpina-style bracket. But in my excitement I didn't test fit anything and took the air cleaner directly to the body shop to have it repainted... Of course it came back looking beautiful, but when I attached the clips, they didn't line up correctly. So the air cleaner now has to be modified and repainted so that the clips line up right. I'm guessing that one end is from a different ty
  13. My car had a gauge cluster housing from a late-model car. The wood grain bugged me so I went to Autobahn Dismantling to find a correct style one worthy of restoring. Interestingly, the wood panel can be removed but the housing itself is actually quite different. The early style has a clear plastic window on the side, mounting holes in the top, and no provisions for attaching the fake wood panel. The gauges themselves went to The Speedo Shop for rebuilding and recalibration. The housing went to GCAR and came back looking brand new.
  14. In the 80's, my aunt had the seats reupholstered. Unfortunately, the upholstery was done in black when they should have been blue. This was something I wanted to fix. The first thing I did was tear down the seats. The horse hair padding was basically powder so this process was really messy. Once the seats were dismantled, I pressure washed all the crud from the frames. The rust was removed using Metal Rescue Gel... this stuff works amazingly well and I highly recommend it. Some seat parts were damaged, such as the int
  15. My car came dealer equipped with a FrigiKing AC unit as a console. However, in the 90s, the whole unit was unfortunately removed and tossed because it had broken. I wanted to replace the unit with a non-AC variety. My goal is to have something period correct that allows me to play music from my phone. In my '66 Beetle, I used a RetroSound stereo with a vintage faceplate and knobs. This time I tried something different. Inspired by what I've seen on this site, I decided to use a vintage stereo and wire it to a BT receiver. The parts gathering process took about 6
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