What did you do to your 2002 today !

[dlhoovler]

@BarneyT, have I mentioned before that the photo of your Baur reminds me of this one, from a circa-1970 promotional flyer by a Pittsburgh BMW dealer? Looking at it closer, isn't that even the same location? 

 

[BarneyT]

1 hour ago, dlhoovler said:

@BarneyT, have I mentioned before that the photo of your Baur reminds me of this one, from a circa-1970 promotional flyer by a Pittsburgh BMW dealer? Looking at it closer, isn't that even the same location? 

 

I think it is that park area overlooks where the river’s merge / The baseball stadium and all of downtown, Pittsburgh is a beautiful city…

Edited August 18, 2021 by BarneyT

[PaulTWinterton]

4 hours ago, BarneyT said:

Ceylon is at painter being painted…

 

That Ceylon gets me every time.  

[fastricky]

Finally took it upon myself to align the two doors to mitigate some wind noise. Was a little unsure at first but did a search here to familiarize myself with how to do it, and once I got in deep it was pretty intuitive. The biggest pain was removing and reinstalling the door cards. Turned out SO MUCH better! Quite satisfying. Rewarded myself by driving to Ace Hardware and buying a new weed wacker. 

[2002#3]

I finished rehab/rebuild of the short console of my project car.  The chip board F/R panels and the fiberboard bottom were replaced with with solid wood R/R panels and a 1/4" plywood bottom - all covered with black corduroy.  The corduroy  should look spiffy against new Esty charcoal carpet. 

Larry

 

[OriginalOwner]

This morning was the annual RemOil Hosedown Of The Window Crank System ....... driver's door.

• Remove the handles and the armrest, lift up the bottom of the door card (the top remains fixed in position).
• Hose down vertical window tracks, lower the window, more hose down of all sliding stuff.
• Raise & lower the window a few times ....... smooth as silk. 
• Hose down the lock mechanism stuff.
• Lower the door card into position
• Reinstall the handles and armrest.
• 20 minutes max !!

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Edited August 19, 2021 by OriginalOwner

[tech71]

I went and had a talk with the machine shop today.

 

"Guys, I know I said no hurry on my cylinder head five weeks ago. Can I update that to hurry? 

Or at least on the back burner"?

"What do you mean what rods?? The rods I gave to Andy 2 weeks ago! I see,  and  when will Andy be back?"

 

A quick search failed to turn up my connecting rods dropped off to replace/ream small end bushings.

Hopefully for their sake, they find my rods, going back Monday. Thats when the guy I gave them to comes back to work. Same guy is also doing the cylinder head.

They are good machinists( and swamped with work) but I'm starting to get major heartburn over their hopeless, hilariously non existent organizational skills. 

Grumble...no way to run a business.. mutter mutter

[irdave]

5 hours ago, OriginalOwner said:

This morning was the annual RemOil Hosedown Of The Window Crank System ....... driver's door.

• Remove the handles and the armrest, lift up the bottom of the door card (the top remains fixed in position).
• Hose down vertical window tracks, lower the window, more hose down of all sliding stuff.
• Raise & lower the window a few times ....... smooth as silk. 
• Hose down the lock mechanism stuff.
• Lower the door card into position
• Reinstall the handles and armrest.
• 20 minutes max !!

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

 

I've been using Ballistol for everything like that lately.  Has a definite, distinct smell, but Euro, so maybe less of a chance for all the nasty chemicals?

 

https://ballistol.com/

 

Oh, and apparently it's AMAZING at cleaning bolt carrier groups in the evil black guns, so I've heard.

[0257]

Had the gas tank boiled out at the local shop — still black gunk lurking in the upper reaches.  So I bought the Maximillian tank.  What can I say?  The ad showed up in my inbox the same day I was thinking about what to do next, and I figure that by the time I fabricate and install seals for inverting the tank for a good soak, get the necessary amount of Berrymans, soak and clean the tank, repaint the entire thing, etc I’ll have spent half the money…. Only to have it prove to be a nearly 50 year old tank and show me a seam leak.  While waiting on shipment, I cadged enough Berrymans from a friend to soak my hard fuel line.  Funnel on top of existing fuel hose made from a turkey baster, filled the line up, plugged the rear hose with vice grips.

I’ll check for leaks in the hard line tonight and tomorrow, but don’t expect to find any.  Day after tomorrow I’ll unclamp those vice grips and see what falls into the jar, blow the line out with Gumout or Brakleen (see what else falls out!), attach new Flenner fuel hoses.   By then hopefully the new injector lines and linkage will be in place and we’ll be dangerousy close to firing him up.

[cdbeemin]

On 8/14/2021 at 2:06 AM, SydneyTii said:

That has always indicated a lean at idle condition on my car, it’s a simple fix, you will need to juggle between the tuna can enrichment screw on the D cam inside the can and the idle speed adjustment on the outside of the tuna can.

I agree, but After setting the timing accurately I started playing with the tuna can adjustments. I readjusted the D cam then started tweaking the mixture screw to see if it would enrich the mixture and fix the surging. Turns out I could make things worse but never really better.  Good thing I kept good notes as I went along. 

 

So, today I set everything back to how I started after timing the car. I took a feeler gauge that was 2.3mm thick and held it where the warm up regulator verboten screw hits its stop. No surge. Never got warmer than middle. Absolutely smooth as butter sound at the tailpipe. Car already revved smooth outside of the idle.  

 

So, I’ve been reading all of the info I can find on the KF. Lots of folks say that screw should not be touched. Mine sticks down 8mm from the underside of the enrichment lever.. if I adjusted it to 10mm it would resolve the surge. Would it break something else? I can’t tell from what I’ve read. 

 

It is possible the PO messed with it before I got it. The motor was not running before I rebuilt it. 

 

Any opinions out there as to whether I should adjust it? Anyone want to measure how far their screw sticks out under the enrichment lever? I feel like I’m so close. 

 

Waiting for the WB02 to arrive, so that will be next.

[Jace]

completed a 1300Km/800mi drive around the state, cut short by going into another statewide covid lockdown.
 

 

[irdave]

8 hours ago, cdbeemin said:

I agree, but After setting the timing accurately I started playing with the tuna can adjustments. I readjusted the D cam then started tweaking the mixture screw to see if it would enrich the mixture and fix the surging. Turns out I could make things worse but never really better.  Good thing I kept good notes as I went along. 

 

So, today I set everything back to how I started after timing the car. I took a feeler gauge that was 2.3mm thick and held it where the warm up regulator verboten screw hits its stop. No surge. Never got warmer than middle. Absolutely smooth as butter sound at the tailpipe. Car already revved smooth outside of the idle.  

 

So, I’ve been reading all of the info I can find on the KF. Lots of folks say that screw should not be touched. Mine sticks down 8mm from the underside of the enrichment lever.. if I adjusted it to 10mm it would resolve the surge. Would it break something else? I can’t tell from what I’ve read. 

 

It is possible the PO messed with it before I got it. The motor was not running before I rebuilt it. 

 

Any opinions out there as to whether I should adjust it? Anyone want to measure how far their screw sticks out under the enrichment lever? I feel like I’m so close. 

 

Waiting for the WB02 to arrive, so that will be next.

 

My experience was that they're all different.  Case in point, seems like most cars are running better with the D cam about half covering the hole.  But I'd say if your car is running better adjusted a little, adjust it a little- at least I would if it was mine.  You're obviously taking good notes, so if it doesn't work, go back.  I had a WBo2, but I played with the mixture screw- once you realize what everything is for- it's just another adjuster.

 

And remember, these aren't modern, super controlled cars where the mixture is 14.6528:1 every day all day.  Running good and strong and super rippy through the mid / upper range is what they're about.  The gauge is a guide, information.

[ray_]

On 8/19/2021 at 11:12 PM, 0257 said:

Had the gas tank boiled out at the local shop — still black gunk lurking in the upper reaches.  So I bought the Maximillian tank.  What can I say?  The ad showed up in my inbox the same day I was thinking about what to do next, and I figure that by the time I fabricate and install seals for inverting the tank for a good soak, get the necessary amount of Berrymans, soak and clean the tank, repaint the entire thing, etc I’ll have spent half the money…. Only to have it prove to be a nearly 50 year old tank and show me a seam leak.  While waiting on shipment, I cadged enough Berrymans from a friend to soak my hard fuel line.  Funnel on top of existing fuel hose made from a turkey baster, filled the line up, plugged the rear hose with vice grips.

I’ll check for leaks in the hard line tonight and tomorrow, but don’t expect to find any.  Day after tomorrow I’ll unclamp those vice grips and see what falls into the jar, blow the line out with Gumout or Brakleen (see what else falls out!), attach new Flenner fuel hoses.   By then hopefully the new injector lines and linkage will be in place and we’ll be dangerousy close to firing him up.

Vise-Grips.

 

[PaulTWinterton]

11 hours ago, cdbeemin said:

Mine sticks down 8mm from the underside of the enrichment lever.. if I adjusted it to 10mm it would resolve the surge. Would it break something else? I can’t tell from what I’ve read. 

 

It is possible the PO messed with it before I got it. The motor was not running before I rebuilt it. 

 

Any opinions out there as to whether I should adjust it? Anyone want to measure how far their screw sticks out under the enrichment lever? I feel like I’m so close. 

 

Waiting for the WB02 to arrive, so that will be next.

 

My experience with verboten screws is that they show 1-3 threads from the factory.  After a recalibration by rebuilders that measurement still stands.I have adjusted the screw to show more threads which is enriching the mixture.  The AFR gauge will be the ultimate test to see how rich/lean your system actually is.

 

I think the rule should be to adjust your d-cam to partially cover the hole before you adjust the verboten screw.  If you can get smooth running and proper AFR readings without adjusting the verboten screw that would be best.

 

If you need further instruction on adjusting procedure of the d-cam, air screw and idle screw please post your questions.

 

 

 

 

[WRKO]

While managing to crack my Recaro universal seat mount trim piece, I found the POs hide-a-key under the seat.