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PaulTWinterton last won the day on October 26

PaulTWinterton had the most liked content!

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    Vancouver BC Canada's "Wet Coast"

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  1. Don't hesitate folks. It's a great tool that you'll actually use, often. 4 years and still loving mine.
  2. No part# AND the picture you posted shows it upside down. It is meant to hold the rear of the console down firmly. And it does! It is affixed by 4 very small screws that hold it to the sides without penetrating the outer vinyl. SO TRUE. I'm a perpetrator of pulled weave from the drill bit snagging the brand new carpet. Arghh!!! I've seen a few more since. TIP: Now I tell everybody to use a pencil soldering iron to burn a hole in the carpet before drilling. That way the edges of the carpet are sealed and there is much less chance of snagging when drilling into the tunnel.
  3. I just looked at the my2002tii tutorial. I've referenced them many times. Still valid. I do notice, although, that sound deadening was overlooked in the pages. You'd be well-advised to add a 1'x 2' strip of sound deadening material to the inside surface of the outer door skin if you haven't already. The old tarred board is usually cracked and falling to the bottom of the door. Best to scrape it off and apply new material. Takes the "woow" sound out and replaces it with a "thunk" when you close your door. Have fun!
  4. I'd mask off the rubber to protect the car paint and use paint stripper with a small brush. It bubbles up the paint on the rubber and you wipe it off. A quick and easy job AS LONG AS YOU MASK IT to prevent getting any stripper on the car paint. Won't hurt the rubber IMO, but you could test a small dab on a hidden area of rubber first, to be certain. Looking at your picture, I'd pull up the edge of the rubber and put masking tape under the edge and a healthy distance over the car paint.
  5. I would email your request to W&N. I believe they will give you an honest answer and send you the up to date pcs if they have them.
  6. Only the one under the car. Since I did my pedal box resto in 2013 I do visuals as well. So for so good. Everything is still clean and dry.
  7. Likely they will take them back. Great customer service. They also might have the updated product.
  8. I was going to rehash the virtues of pedal box restoration and the various jobs around that endeavor. Brake fluid causes all kinds of grief on the frame rail, booster, pedal box and floor. I started to detail that and hit the submit button by mistake. I lost all my text somehow and only showed a heap of pictures, that I'm sure would dissuade or dishearten the OP from doing any of the work. I didn't have time to recreate my text so I used n/t meaning "no text" as I was unable to completely remove my post. Now... I see that someone has submitted a few pics of my restoration. It really is worth the work to clean up your pedal box, frame rail and brake booster if you have or had a fluid leak. I had some fluid in my booster. I good clean saved the day. My frame rail was rusting due to fluid. Cleaned and painted. Questions answered IMHO: - love my pressure bleeder, but the job can be done with a helper pumping the pedals - DOT 4 is good for street use, but never mix different grades. HINT: If you do restore your pedal box, replace the outer rubber cover BEFORE you re-install your pedal box. Much easier to glue on the cover first. More pics:
  9. Ah! Another brother from the same mother. Nicely done.
  10. Either orientation should work but with the closed part of the clip upward. I feed chicken wire through the closed end as a leash in the event it doesn't seat and drops. The clip should slide in the groove and seat with the help of flathead screwdrivers pushing on the side and on top. Remove the chicken wire once it's in position. Hope that helps.
  11. I never get tired of looking at that set up. Beautiful. I'd say it's the absolute ultimate upgrade back in the day. There's original and then there is period original. You check both boxes and then some. I look forward to seeing that in person someday. When we can travel again.
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