PaulTWinterton

Me again. I have no bolt or hole on the edges of my battery tray. AND no ground strap. Do you (or anyone) have a picture of the original configuration on the roundie tii? I only have a negative-battery-post-to-solenoid cable. Obviously I or the PO removed the chassis ground cable at some time. No ill effects that I know of, but we'll see what happens when I install the proper ground strap. Maybe I'll get 10 more horsepower.

Not only that...a film of oil will coat the bottom of your car. Not such a bad thing. I attribute a life-long oil leak to the (near) rust-free condition of the bottom of my car, although it has lived in the north for its entire life.

Hmmm...I'll have to go look. I don't recall ever seeing that.

Oh! I'm all too familiar with that sheetmetal screw into the fender under the regulator. That's the replacement for a ground strap? Seems puny by comparison. I actually changed that screw to a through-bolt with plenty of metal-to-metal contact.

Sorry. Better to be depressed now than later when you have a bunch of time and money invested, and no end in sight.

I'm drawing a blank. Where is the chassis ground on my roundie tii? Our battery boxes are welded in.

One skill that I never acquired was welding. If it was me, first I'd take an automotive welding course to learn the art and techniques required to do a proper job of restoration. When I see photos of restoration projects it looks very rewarding to restore what was once a rusty wreck. ...AND find a better body to restore. They are out there. Good luck. Some suppliers of body parts: http://www.restoration-design.com/store/category/BMW https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=2583-USA---114-BMW-2002tii&mg=41 (Dealership) https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/karosserie-blechteile/bmw-1502-2002-turbo.html

Getting this topic restarted. I finally broke down and bought an Ultrasonic machine. I also had a long chat with Wes Ingram and Herb Sanborn about mechanical injectors and refurbishing. First off, about injector#4 that would not crack AT ALL. I dismantled it completely, being very careful to only stretch the spring enough the remove the T support. It was pretty dirty inside and the pintle shaft was corroded so much that it was glued to the 2nd and 3rd washers. The pintle sealing edge appears to be clean. As recommended by Herb, I used EvapoRust to dissolve the corrosion and then I ran all the parts through the Ultrasonic machine for 30 minutes. I re-assembled the pieces and now I'm getting consistent 350psi cracking and uniform atomization. Injector#1 was cracking at 300psi. After an Ultrasonic bath it is now cracking at 350psi. If the injectors once cracked at 500psi and now all I can get is ±350psi, is it the spring that has lost tension over the years? I heard a rumor that someone has had the spring re-manufactured. Still following up on that.

Funny. I guess I have good taste. I pulled that image from Google and composited the logo. Only meant to be a mock up. Hopefully it will spark Steve to produce caps.

Great idea! I'd buy one. @steve k.? Mock up:

This wheel was my spare and in the spare tire well when I bought the car in 1990. I was SURE that it was an original paint scheme from BMW. I was later convinced (by the FAQ) that it had been painted by some PO.

My experience is that the housing is the least problematic component. IMHO @Swiss 2002Tiihas/had a severely corroded unit, but most are intact, I believe. The real problems lie in the wax motor element and the air cutoff piston assembly. Just a forewarning so that you don't go to a lot of trouble. I have no problem being corrected if I'm wrong. More comments please.

The OEM kit has two pieces, approx 15mm x 5mm x 60cm and a wider piece. IIRC. The OEM stuff is pretty useless, and keep in mind that it compresses to the extreme. Closed cell not so much. As is, the top of the tank/sending units/hoses pretty much touch the floor board. If the tank is raised, it will press against (raise) the floor boards. Just something to keep in mind. I used OEM but wouldn't again. I would use thinner closed cell, NOT caulking...too messy to re&re. IMO.

I was one of those people back in the day. The wheels didn't even have to be rusty, just stock. What was I thinking?

Bingo! For anyone that hasn't used an industrial DIY blasting cabinet, it's the MOST FUN you'll have in restoration, IMO. "Crushed" glass to remove heavy rust, and then glass "bead" to smooth the metal before adding primers and paints. I've done a wheel in 20 minutes, inside and out. That calculates to about 20 bucks a wheel, but considering the age and value of vintage steel wheels I think it's a great investment to preserve these babies.