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About PaulTWinterton

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  1. I use a trick for reassembly. The internal cogged piece flops around while trying to align all the parts. By depressing the button the mechanism is locked in a position to align the lever into the proper position. I use a couple of zip-ties to keep the button depressed while re-installing the lever.
  2. It does come out on its own. A little more finagling required. Once the cable nuts are removed and the pivot pin is removed you push the button in to release the internal mechanism. It should slide out easily. Good luck.
  3. I agree. For me...the satisfaction of an AFR is using it to set up your fuel and air and then hiding it so that it isn't distracting. For that reason my gauge lives in the glove box. Had I known I would probably go for the PhoneAp version. Cool.
  4. 8.75in x 25.4 (mm/in) = 222.25mm Still shorter than the 282mm Turbo sender as measured by @dlacey So now I know that there is a longer sender. Still don't know the Ohm range.
  5. Sorry, I don't know the length of the tii sender. Do you? Mine is back in the car and I won't be removing it anytime soon.
  6. I see you have not received an answer to this question. The turbo sender is longer than a tii sender? Please confirm. If it is longer I can add some speculation as to what the readings would be. I think it is safe to say that the tii sender is approx. 0 -75 ohms resistance, full to empty. Close enough? Aging or contamination will alter these numbers, but (IMO) we should not get too wrapped up in exact #'s as the gauge itself is pretty vague. My test: 04 - 72 ohms. If the Turbo sender is X% longer then the empty number would be proportionately higher. Agree? I guess that would mean that the Turbo gauge is a different part# than the Tii gauge.
  7. Can you give us some search terms for the thread? Thanks.
  8. On the corners to keep the grill from touching the paint, but the picture shows it in the cleavage.
  9. A shout out to all 02 owners in the PNW to attend the Northwest Historics this year. For those that have not attended, you'll not be disappointed. It is everything we love about vintage cars and more. The vintage BMW presence is strong and the atmosphere is charged with the sights and sounds of beautifully preserved race cars from years gone by. Not to mention the huge fan turn out and gorgeous cars parked in various corrals. My buddies and I are driving down from Canada for the weekend to park our cars in the BMW corral and enjoy the festivities. We'd like to see a bunch of U.S. 02s do the same. Saturday is the main event ($30 for car and driver), but we will hang out at the track Fri-Sat-Sun ($50 for car and driver). Passengers are extra $. What about a potluck and BYOB barbeque on Saturday night? That would be fun. Find a local park somewhere close by to meet up. But that can only happen with local knowledge. Anyone in the Seattle area help with that? For tickets and corral parking get in touch with Debbie Haley, 206-227-9486, deborahhaley@msn.com This is Cars&Coffee&MuchMore. It doesn't get better than this, unless you're racing. I expect we'll see @NeueKlasseGuy, @Preyupy and other members at the track. Hope to see you there?
  10. PM sent. First dibs on 2pc dash. ☺️
  11. TIME-SERT is the new helicoil. ☺️ (IMHO)
  12. TIME-SERT is the way to go. No question.
  13. Save your money until you've cleaned everything else. The injectors would only (start to) malfunction if dirt was introduced into the fuel (IMO). Problem started after pressure wash, hmm... Have you checked: - vacuum hose on the side of the throttle body for cracks or dislodged? - wet wires at coil? Presuming you've thoroughly dried your dizzy and plug wires - cold start injector for continuous drip or spray? (clamp hose w/ engine running) - cold start harness for electrical short? (disconnect while engine is running) Your video is very short and only shows a few moments of idle. Is it a steady mis-fire? If so, that tells a lot. One cylinder has a problem.
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