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PaulTWinterton

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PaulTWinterton last won the day on September 14

PaulTWinterton had the most liked content!

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    Vancouver BC Canada's "Wet Coast"

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  1. PaulTWinterton
    Yes. It was a direct delivery to Canada. The decal is starting to make more sense.
  2. PaulTWinterton
    I'm throwing one more picture into the mix here. I've forgotten what I learned about the significance of the E1/E2 decal. It has been there as long as I've owned the car ( since 1990). Enlighten me please. My engine bay, 2015.
  3. PaulTWinterton
    Thanks for that. Now I want to make a copy of your puller. In your photo on page 1 of this thread you show it with flared nuts and without in the photo above. Questions: (I`ve been debating with @stephers about the need for these to be hardened) 1. Are the flared nuts required? 2. Are the arms laterally adjustable to secure on the inside edges of the sprocket holes? FWIW, W&N used to offer the proper valve cover studs in their engine rebuild hardware kit.
  4. PaulTWinterton
    I had the Chevy van of that era. You could lift the engine cover while driving and make adjustments...I mean the passenger would make adjustments. 😯 Great little truck.
  5. PaulTWinterton
    Yes, plus a larger ID rubber hose at the bottom to adapt to the block. Not sure why mine is the larger pair. I don't ever recall changing it. @tdskipjust be sure you get the appropriate dipstick for your car. Sounds like you may need the smaller stopper version for the smaller tube otherwise the dipstick won't fit in the tube.
  6. PaulTWinterton
    That bracket fits behind the center kidney on the threaded posts, one at the top and one at the bottom. You can buy the the OEM spacers though, #51135480114. On your nice new paint these keep the grill from contact.
  7. PaulTWinterton
    Interesting. My 73 dipstick AND flared tube are both larger. Same on my 74 spare engine.
  8. PaulTWinterton
    Just to clarify if you aren't aware...there are different dipsticks. At the moment I can't confirm which is which, other than one style has a smaller plug/seal at the tube opening, and the other difference is on some cars the tube opening is flaired. IIRC, the larger diameter plug/seal fits the tii with the flaired tube opening, whereas the smaller diameter plug/seal fits the tube without the flaired opening on a stock 02. OR...the larger diameters are upgraded parts in later years. I'm sure someone can clarify. I think I have a spare tii dipstick in my stash. If you are having a problem finding one, let me know.
  9. PaulTWinterton
    Go Barney!
  10. PaulTWinterton
    I was wondering when that little detail would surface. The true purists speak their minds. I'm in the other camp. It's not that big of deal to me as it begs the question, "why didn't the factory hide the seams below the grills"? You could go crazy documenting all the yellow zinc plated fasteners that would originally have been silver plated, black plated or even just painted. It's still very pretty. I would like to see the bottom.
  11. PaulTWinterton
    Didn't know that. Next time I'm in Victoria, I'll have to drop by. Could be a long while with the state of our health issues. Thanks for the heads up.
  12. PaulTWinterton
    Check out their other inventory. They are showing two tis. One is an Alpina. I knew Victoria was a classic car haven, but I didn't realize the depth of the 2002 collectors.
  13. PaulTWinterton
    If it's relative to the rest of the work, it's probably been reset at restoration completion. My guess.
  14. PaulTWinterton
    Sure there are some nitpicky liberties taken by the restorer, but overall this car appears to be built with love. No pictures of the underside, but I'll bet it glows. Ceylon is gorgeous IMHO. http://silverarrowcars.com/cars/1973-bmw-2002tii/?fbclid=IwAR0bgqI8N1BRNvHNY_-Sd80ptSn5HS9Kk2qMHMeHT4ozCCImeYosWu23bnY Let the purists rant. I love this car! EDIT: OMG! I just noticed this car is in Victoria, BC, Canada, just a ferry ride away from me.
  15. PaulTWinterton
    Ok, I get it. That's a tough one. Maybe another option: cut the nut off with a Dremel with a very small cutting wheel, so as not to damage the shaft or pulley. Cut the nut into 2 pieces. Easy to replace. Using an impact air tool...would the speed exceed 7000 rpms? That's the max speed of the pump in normal use.
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