PaulTWinterton

Just to add...we have a shop here called "Heads Unlimited". They are experts in welding aluminum heads, but will refuse to repair a head if they deem it un-repairable. They do say that BMW aluminum is far better than Asian aluminum. "The difference between butter and granulated sugar", was the comment. Average price to repair any M10 head $350-500cdn, (250-400us). They believe that their welding of a BMW head is "as good as new". FWIW. The process includes cooking the head to 350F so that the welding doesn't warp the head or cause more cracks adjacent the weld.

Thanks. ☺️ I finished that job last March and drove the car all summer. It's a bit dirty now as I drove through the occasional puddle, but nothing serious. I usually only drive on dry days. I'll be cleaning any dirt off this winter while I'm doing the front half of the bottom, and the front subframe. Refinishing the bottom of the car with a coat of polyurethane definitely eliminates it as "museum quality" but I have piece of mind that it is protected for years to come. Here's my original front subframe as it still is today. I tried to match the color and was told RAL 4037 is the code to use. I'm not familiar with RAL codes, but I'm happy with the color. Funny, I still haven't seen the "green" variant of subframe color. Here's the process I followed. Intense but rewarding. I had SO MUCH fun. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/239727-refresh-vs-restore-subframe-rere-and-undercoating-long/#comments

Or...shoes hanging up? Poorly assembled? You can feel the change in the pedal after a shoe adjustment. Sounds like stuck shoes that release and create a soft pedal because the shoe adjustment is wrong. It's a theory but worth double checking the shoes and adjusters.

My aim was to replicate the OE grey. I was fortunate to find a shop to powder coat in both black and RAL 4037 grey. Awesome coating but prep is required to protect threads and bearing surfaces. 200 bucks well spent. Front subframe project is looming on the horizon.

Some of the best lacrosse players in the world come from there. How do I know? They keep beating us. Sorry, off topic. Nice purchase. That colour would look a lot better with the right wheel choice. Sienabraun? Photo makes it look mauve. If you turn the key and NOTHING happens, take a look at the starter. On the solenoid is a spade connector at the 6 oclock position. There should be a wire connected to it. If it is loose or disconnected the starter will not turn over. Hopefully it is that simple.

There are also grounds at the cluster and regulator that must be secure or enhanced. If you put the key to ignition but don't start the car the fuel and temp gauge should NOT READ full and hot respectively. Both readings indicate that you have poor or NO ground. The same test can be performed by removing the ground wire at the fuel level sender.

I was thinking the same thing. Hmm...maybe I should swap out my A/M wheels for my steelies and caps. I may have to keep that thought til Spring as it doesn't look like we'll be getting many more dry days this year. @BarneyTyour car looks so great!

I don't know much about online auctions, so I don't know why people bid early, as the real bidding seems to happen in the last few minutes. I'm watching this one, for sure. Kinda fun.

Opps, I didn't know that. My bad. Never mind.

Geez, another opportunity to post this picture. Greatest tire in the world. Well, not really but they are super cool and not too expensive. Brandnew/vintage tires. Pirelli CN36 available in 14" from Longstone Tyres, England. Free shipping worldwide. Search this forum for "Pirelli CN36" to find US dealers as well, but Longstone is still slightly cheaper, I believe. Ok Steve, Tom, I'm waiting..............

Sorry, no. If you can, find a solid brass one. I believe they are less problematic and more simple in design. Nothing to wear out except the o-rings.

If everything is stock and assembled correctly the flow should cut off. It all focuses on the valve. When the alignment of the guts completely inhibits the flow, your heater blows cold. I would open the front cover of the valve to confirm that the plastic guts are aligned correctly when open and closed. The operation is a bit mind boggling with the lever on the dash, the lever on the valve and the cable. Just maybe it is not functioning (adjusted) as expected OR is there a chance that the cable is being pinched or restrained under the dash? The lever operation on the dash should be a smooth arc from cold to hot without ( or little) resistance. Good luck. Not one of my favorite jobs. Tip: when removing the slot-head screws from the valve, stuff drop clothes inside the bulkhead. You don't want to lose those screws down the drain tubes. ☺️

I think 60K. Or it should based on sales of past cars of this caliber and increasing rarity. Another 10 years and it (a 99% authentic tii) will be a $100K piece of history, all day long. IMHO. We've already seen it happen. If it doesn't hit 60, I will be convinced that the market is soft.

Movement between the crankshaft and the big end bearings. That certainly tells the story. It will be interesting to see the bearings and rod/crank surfaces. Please share pictures once you've got it apart.

What some 02 owners and other collector car owners don't factor in is the WOW factor. Many classics are cool and fun cars, but the 02 is high on the list of crowd pleasers. How many thumbs up do you get in a day of driving, or how many 6 year olds say "mommy, mommy, look at that car", or octogenarians saying " that's the best car I ever owned", or "had one of those, should never have sold it"? The comments go on and on, and sometimes it's when you are parked beside a supercar which nobody is commenting on. This factor makes certain buyers stop at nothing to have one. I get a kick out of the attention and the variety of comments. My wife not so much. She likes to be anonymous while driving. I get it. Back on topic: love the Ceylon. That was the car I wanted when I bought my Inka in 1990. Couldn't find a decent Ceylon anywhere at the time.