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About jerryasi

  • Birthday 09/03/1949

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  • Interests
    BMW/prewar Schwinn bikes

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  1. I did this cause I wanted to run the engine, now that's it's back in the car gonna pull the casters and scrap the iron.
  2. An overwhelming number of assembly steps. Planning within the confines of a one man project.
  3. Are you still in the seatbelt biz? I need a pair for my 1972 2002.

    1. bluedevils


      yes. I have new belts for around $350 shipped. Klippan brand. Best quality seat belts. Does your car have the upper and lower b-pillar anchors?

    2. jerryasi


      Its been years since I looked at it assembled, but a 72 had shoulder belts so yes, upper and lower at the "B" pillar, then buckled into a cable connected female end secured to the tunnel. PayPal F&F?

    3. bluedevils


      not all 72s have upper and lower b pillar anchors. early 72s had Klippan manual belts and no upper b-pillar anchors, that is why I asked. But my belts will work on early 72s as well with some simple mods.

      My paypal address: [email protected]





  4. Check with Dave at Aarvarc Racing, he rebuilt 2 Racaro's for me. Both were the E21 variety, the driver side as bad as yours, they make new foam parts. Uhaul has some heavy "electronics" boxes, shipping was $200 roundtrip, including that it cost half what I was quoted in Spokane.
  5. Hey William, back on the time lapse of the engine install from the underside you posted a photo essay that won't pull up. I just got my car back from paint, have had the engine/trans on a test run stand and is ready to be installed. I like the idea of dropping the subframe mounting the engine and reinstall. It's 74 tii engine so may need a bit more height to clear the plenum. Trying to plan the need for equipment and helpers. The time lapse is good but can't see the lift points and blocking. Thank you for any advise. Jerry

    1. williamggruff


      Hi Jerry,


      It’s been a while since I played that game. I recall that it’s more of a production than I expected. I used a 1500-lb engine crane, a tall floor jack, a transmission jack, and 6 jack stands, at least 2 of which need to be quite tall (like 3 feet tall.) I think we resorted to placing tall jack stands on top of cinder blocks. This whole affair is absolutely not OSHA approved. 

      With the hood removed from the car, raise the chassis using the engine crane chained to the front subframe. You probably won’t be able to get it high enough in one go, as you’ll need to also raise the rear of the car. So raise the front as far as you can, and support the front of the chassis with your tall jack stands under the front frame rails. Then raise the rear via a floor jack under the rear subframe and support the rear with jack stands under the rear subframe. Then raise the front some more, until it’s high enough for you to slide the engine AND the front subframe under the nose of the car. After you get the chassis raised, remove the front subframe.

      With the engine and transmission assembled on an engine stand, and with the complete front subframe (all steering and suspension components assembled) balanced on the floor jack, use the engine crane to lower the engine and transmission onto the front subframe and support the transmission with the transmission jack. Depending on the size of your exhaust headers, you might be able to mount them before mating the front subframe back to the chassis. Some measurements and test fitting are likely in your future. 

      With a helper, roll the complete front subframe and engine assembly under the chassis. Use the engine crane to raise the assembly to mate with the chassis. It’s tricky, as the chassis will be absurdly high, making it difficult to support the tail end of the transmission as the height of the transmission tunnel will likely exceed the max lifting height of the transmission jack. Once the front subframe and transmission are mated to the chassis, it’s best to install the driveshaft and any other driveline components. Then use the engine crane to lower the chassis with engine to a more suitable height and finish connecting the electrical and cooling systems.

    2. williamggruff


      Best of luck!

  6. When installing the new pad, what is the recommended adhesive? It will be covering a freshly painted engine bay.
  7. Are there any sources out there that might work?
  8. Anyone looking for a sound but dented tank with sender and pickup for $350 let me know. For another $100 I'll throw in the pump and expansion tank.
  9. For sale one great motor stand, tips the thing at 30 degrees, holds a "Patrick" midnight auto radiator. Cool fuel tank, I'd even through in the tii fuel pump.
  10. Will sell cheap! Likely $100 to ship, sound leather, could be dyed. Gonna do a rear seat delete.
  11. I was pleased with the work that Dave Varco performed on a very "shabby" pair of E21 Racaro's. I'm in Spokane Washington so shipping added $180 to the total. But he charged $850 for both in German Vinyl, I supplied the the Racaro buttons.
  12. Hey Andrew, cool ride and bitchen stance! How'd you do that?
  13. I only wish I was at the "hint of yellow stage" Looking for a bodyman . . . might just be me. Could buy a mig and sell it in month. Just need to weld the core support in and get the doors, hood and trunk lid gapped. BarneyT project looks very good, wish my project was that advanced.
  14. Confuses me as well, the pump that was installed by Bill Williams had the single output pipe, mine as you can see has both out and return pipe. My motivation in doing all of this (my tii tank is sound and my pump works great) but over the 40 years of ownership the tank was abused and dented, got a nice later 2002 tank that was straight and sound and has the single hole for my new pump and required sender. So pump power, I can "Jerry rig", the sender is a bit more complex, just need a wrecking yard with some DOA E30's. 

    tanks alot.jpg

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