jerryasi

When I grab plugs I'm getting a new push button switch for the cold start, it seems unreliable. Attached is the base tii 123 parameters that I copied from someone's post. I'll recheck cable sequence.

So my game plan, get the BP6ES NGK's might get that BP12ES just to try in #1. Now a 123 question, with the engine at TDC black wire disconnected, ignition on should the green led be "centered" in the oval? I'm at the far edge should I reposition the dizzy?

I've checked and can find no air leak avenue, guessing it can't be the "open" collector pulling oxygen in an erratic fire. Here a shot of todays plugs. I'm going to reestablish the distributer timing.

I'll go through the adjustment drill again, good practice. Question regarding the text box in manual "Adjust CO by turning the mixture screw OUT to raise CO, or in to lower it." So how is my guage reading converted to the needed 2 to 3 percent? I'm planning to replace the "push button" I'm using to engage my cold start injector, it does stick at times. So yes I did adjust the mixture screw out the attached video (too large) shows my current result. I'll go back through all of my adjustments. Oil pressure seems high. 20191228_144328_002_001.mp4

Wasn't blaming the thermostat for the hot #1 cylinder, was blaming it for the temp gauge reading 220 and the lower hose and radiator cold. I may need to "burp" the coolant system? Also wondering about oil pressure at 60 psi. Going to recheck the cold start injector to insure it is shutting off, it's on a push button. Paul your referring to the mixture adjusting screw? The early backfire (dizzy off 180 degrees) was into the plenum, blew off the tape over the brake booster port and nipple I had used for the distributer. subsequent backfires are through the exhaust. It did smooth out (quit the backfire) when I advanced the distributer (turned CCW) but then gained the RPM.

So tomorrow I'll make an effort to better document the run time. I've gone back through the linkage adjustment, didn't seem far enough off to cause the engine to run at over 2000 RPM in the idle position. It did smooth out (quit the backfire) when I advanced the distributer (turned CCW) but then gained the RPM. Attaching the picture of the exhaust manifold that looks like too much heat. The tuna can shot is because it's different from the factory Kfish manual, just a year thing I suppose.

I had those two holes plugged with duct tape until I learned that I could set the distributer at 180 degrees off by the front pulley marks, where ever did those tape plugs go. I'll report tomorrow when I can go back through the whole factory linkage protocol.

On the 123 front I've gone with a basic tii centrifugal and MAP curve. I'm gonna have to go back to square one on the Kfish linkage adjustment. I start it, it warms slightly and backfires until I advance the distributor, then the RPM goes to 2500 at what should be idle. Again need to start over here. The header looks like it is very hot (discolored) am concerned my thermostat is not opening.

I did go through the pre start drill in the manual. Will check them all tomorrow, just number one tonight. My cold start is just a button, just delivers a "burst". My 1972 was not born a tii, bought a wrecked 1974 in 1979 when an x wife fried my original. Need to study up on the 123 distributor.

So got the pump and warm up regulator back from Wes Ingram I assumed he set that? Plugs NGK BP7ES. I haven't done any programing to the 123 dizzy, nor have I put a timing light on it. The plug looks wet & black. I hooked up the vacuum tube to the nipple on the throttle body. So how do I solve the misfire?

So all of the pictures taken during disassembly paid a dividend on reassembly, it fired, I haven't tackled the tuna can yet. Is there a standard baseline graph for setting the advance curves in the Bluetooth 123 dizzy? Clearly as an "out of car" experience there little I can document on the performance side, any "tuning" advice would be welcome. FIRST RUN.mp4

Hey thanks for the heads up on that O ring, I'll be working on that tomorrow. My high school buddy in SoCal is finishing up a '61 XKE 3.8. Thanks for your help. Jerry

So my fuel leak at the tank to pump junction is the O ring just inside the inlet side of the pump. Anybody got a part number?

No, the length is good, I just pushed it off the valve cover to remove the cover. Has that clever kink to duck under the plenum, is just awkward to slip back onto the valve cover nipple.

What's the electronics under the drivers seat? Did you install the Dynamat?