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About MoBrighta

  • Birthday September 19

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Golden, Colorado
  • Interests Motoring Safety, Singing, Fine Whisky

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  1. UPDATE Early last year I built a 'device' to upgrade rear light output, specifically for one circuit -- BRAKES. This was sent out and was to be tested, but sadly the test vehicle was damaged, and the project stalled. The 'Device' was built to double voltage output to the brake light to utilize high output 12 Volt lamps in the brake lights. I have asked the tester to return it, so after a review of its performance, I am again inviting 6V Car owners to apply for this job. It is set up for plug in installation, no wire cutting or other alterations of the car's wiring or anything. I will also provide the high output lamps for use in the brake lights. Contact me if interested, and to answer your question before you ask it, YES, it is safe and will just about double the output of brake lights. Current will be reduced to the lights, volts doubled, and watts should be about the same. The benefit of course would be a better chance of 'startling' the following driver into braking when you do, and hopefully increasing the odds they will stop before physical contact (i.e. crashing into you). I am also working on restoration of some NK lights to help increase output from optical restoration of the reflectors, lenses, etc. Open to addressing all models with a 6 Volt system. Anyone out there with dim rear lights???
  2. Bump after another year! First- a comment to clarify the above photo from DTMLGND. This is a shot of tail lights - NOT brake lights, right? With auto exposure compensation, it looks VERY bright, so I can understand thinking they are brakes. Actually, it is my 'Plus Two' upgrade that makes both the tail and brake sectors light with parking (running) lights, making the car far more visible and the lights more reliable. With Brake application, the inner sector lights up as usual, but way brighter. In his case, both lenses were melted and crappy (some of you have seen this) from use of a 'brake' lamp in the 'tail' sector. Been there, done that, do NOT recommend. I disassembled them, replaced the damaged lenses with some salvaged parts in better condition, and repaired a broken contact (springy tab that applies volts to lamp center contact) so he has all lights working again (he'd lost the brake light). And the plus two upgrade as described above. Second - 6 V to 12 V brake light upgrade. I was digging into my archives to find the results of testing on the 6V-12V conversion of the brake light circuit... but a snag had stalled the test. As of this month, I expect to get the setup back in my hands -- SO -- I am looking for another Test Pilot. To refresh everyone - This is a device to convert the 6 volts supplied to the brake lights with 12 Volts, and replace 6V lamps with new High Output 12V lamps. The objective is Brighter Brake Lights. I designed a device to do this automatically using a 6V battery, several relays, and some wiring. The thing works great on the bench, and now needs real world testing. As with all my inventions, NO WIRES ARE CUT, installation is unplug / plug and play (terminals and instructions provided), and no harm will come to the car. The new HO brake lamps will be provided as well. I am looking for a new home in a 6 Volt test vehicle, an early 2002 or similar car like a 1600/1602, etc. Your brake lights should be working - the reflectors should be in decent shape, or restored so they are decent. I will be happy to work with any volunteer to be sure it meshes easily into the wiring for just the brake circuit, and affects no other circuits in the car. The rest of the car will continue using the stock 6V system - battery, alternator, everything. If this device proves successful, it could be extended to other circuits in the car. I envision a small number - say two or three circuits, not the entire electrical system. That would be done better using another approach entirely. Ideally, this will be your second car, one you can easily drive around for a few days or weeks at a time. In other words, it should be generally fully operational, and legal to drive day and night, so that you can take notes, get the impression of an independent observer, and report back on the light output with the 12V system in place, compared to the 6V lamps. I have some easy test conditions I will share with you, simple to perform tests. It would be nice if you could take pictures too. Any Volunteers?
  3. MoBrighta

    tail light reflector

    Ah, that's Mo Betta, fhanks
  4. MoBrighta

    Crusty 1975 part out

    I would like a crack at the rear lights - if you can get them out. Whatever you can get- They don't look so good, but I do tail light restorations. I may be able to bring them back - maybe make a set for another square tail that needs lights... or maybe I can use them to harvest parts for another set of lights and bring it back from the brink. I would spend two- three days soaking with wd-40 or other penetrant before even thinking about removing the nuts from the trim so the bolts don't snap off. Been there, sadly I've done that! Thank you! Andy
  5. MoBrighta

    tail light reflector

    Very nice condition, for its age! I expected to see an 'L' or 'R' on the back for left or right - this is a left side, correct? Thanks! Andy
  6. MoBrighta

    Battery trunk relocation options

    I had a similar solution - battery under the passenger side seat in back. Cut a flap in the floor pan, bent down and welded in three gussets to form a box, put a 1/4 inch mud flap rubber pad underneath. I used an original red top for 14 years! Cables- ran 2/0 welding cable under the right side seat up to the firewall, used an existing hole with grommet to run +12V to the starter relay; grounded battery to the seat belt mounting bolt in back. I ran 4 gauge from the starter to a new battery bus under the headlight / horn relays for power distribution, alternator, all battery feeds to key, fuse box, extra relays, etc. Also a great jumper cable point. Coincidentally, I also built a spare tank very similar to yours, 16ga, stainless steel, held 28+ gallons (106 liters). Had all penetrations in the top so no leaks. Wired the fuel level sender and tank selector solenoid valve through a DPDT switch under the dash so I could read either tank level on the dash in the original fuel level gauge when I switched tanks! Electric fuel pump fed the carbs, blanking plate replaced the mechanical pump. With both tanks filled, I had an over 1,000 mile (1600 km) range between fuel stops (stops for Pilot Relief as needed).
  7. MoBrighta

    Red Handle screwdriver

    For sale- very nice condition, reversible (straight/Philips) with molded legend "HEYCO" and "Made in W-Germany" in handle. Near new condition - NEVER Plier-ed for leverage, no gouges in handle or steel. Minor flaking of plating, nothing larger than 2-4 mm. I believe it is from a 2002 (1972). Price is shipped from Colorado to Continental US addresses (CONUS) via USPS.
  8. I have a pair of tails without the lens or interior covers, with trim and body seals, without the usual melting around the brake and tail lamps. They will be restored to near-new shiny condition, with high output lamps for best possible visibility. I will also include a 'Plus Two' upgrade if you want it, to light both the top and bottom red lens sections with tail light operation. This quadruples the lighted area and more than triples the light output with running lights, with high output brake, turn and reverse lights as well. I prefer to do this on a trade basis, swap your reflectors for mine, so I can restore your lights for someone else. This is good news if your 02 is a daily driver. Also have body seals (gaskets) and exterior trim (left side perfect, right side has crack at top inside corner) if you need it.
  9. MoBrighta

    cibié 7" Z Beam

    Hella is in fact now making a more modern light, the 'Super' which has superior optics to about anything made in the 70's or 80's. It still appears to be of that period- its a H4 high/low 7 inch, fits perfectly into the US buckets, and even has a 'city light' feature (4W front position light) that I have wired to the parking lights, same function and appeal as Euro lights. It has far superior beam definition to any other Hella light, that's for sure. I recommend the following setup for maximum lighting: 1 pair of Hella Supers 1 pair of Vosla high output H4 lamps (German, stock watts) 1 pair of city light sockets and lamps 1 city light harness for connecting to 'park light' in the turn signal 1 pair of Xpel headlight protection film - invisibly clear and 'bullet proof' I can provide any or all of the above, and it is plug-in simple to install the headlights. City light harness takes a screwdriver - all terminals installed and ready to connect to power and ground.
  10. MoBrighta

    Mechanical fuel pump question

    Many - myself included - replace the mechanical pump with an electric, and cover the hole in the head with a plate. I put mine in the trunk, for minimum pickup difficulty and convenience. Plus, it made sense with two tanks (used an RV solenoid operated fuel selector valve). Noisy - yes, but mounting it on rubber bushings will silence most of that. Good luck with the bushings.
  11. Yes, the covers still fit. Price depends on which lamp needs the repair - tail, US$21 per. Brake/turn/reverse, US$25 per. These include the lamp plus power and ground wiring. Plus shipping, but size and weight are small. I have a model sitting on the bench, quick and easy to make another set. Andy
  12. Common issue. Center contacts in these old lights is a four piece assembly, including a plastic insulator, a thick metal contact terminal (flat spade), a soft thin contact piece (brass color) , a slightly thicker spring steel piece behind the brass contact strip. The steel layer is what you see when you look at the back of the light, they are silvery in color. This springy steel layer pushes the brass layer underneath against the lamp and provides positive voltage to the lamp PLUS presses the two side pins against their seats in the slots to provide a ground contact (zero volts, if you like). Sometimes this can be corrected by removing the lamp, bending the steel and brass layers back towards the lamp base contact, and reinstalling the lamp. Sometimes the bending force exceeds the strength, and the brittle steel layer breaks, a sickening experience. This leaves the brass layer with practically no springiness or force against the lamp base or side contacts, and there is nothing to be happy about. If that steel spring breaks, no light will work for more than a few moments, maybe an hour, but not reliably. Fix- I have designed a high output (brighter, but NOT high wattage) lamp with soldered leads, making the contacts totally reliable, and a small wiring harness for the ground path that conducts power from the lamp back to ground. It's a workaround that does not rely on the original contact assembly, and avoids all heat issues at the connections because they are made with spade connectors separated from the lamp (and it's heat) by a distance of several inches. And it does not melt the lens, it's nickel base as required, and is the same lamp I sell for upgrades. Safer in several ways, and brighter by around 1/3. If you can plug in a flat spade connector, you can install the updated lamp in a minute, and have reliable, brighter lights. This update works for any of the rear lights, tail, brake, turn, and reverse. And it's way less money than buying a reflector somewhere, which may or may not have the same failed contacts.
  13. MoBrighta

    Optima Battery

    I bought a Red top, purchased in Boulder Colorado (from Art Krill) in the early 1990s for my 72. I added lots of extra lights, cruise control, electric cooling fan, electric fuel pump, heavy duty stereo with amp, etc. I upgraded my alternator to a 90 amp. Battery lasted over 14 years, despite my leaving the lights on a few times and totally draining the battery. Very happy with it, but this is old news, not recent experience. Would not hesitate to buy another.
  14. Will check - some were ordered, some time ago, but don't know if they arrived yet. Shoot me an email, I will reply directly. (see my sig) Andy
  15. MoBrighta

    Colorado Springs/Denver 2002 people?

    I am also in Golden, be glad to come out for a local gathering in my E28 (my second BMW after the 2002). Be happy to work with you, 1974_Verona, maybe promote your shop and share the many things I do with lighting. I'd also be happy to bring a couple of tail lights to demo the upgrades and restoration, maybe even install one in a car for show and tell, side by side with an original... and help folks decide if it's 'worth it.' Chris (Golden) has installed a pair of Hella upgrade headlights ("SUPER") I sell, maybe he will come out, show them off, report his night-time driving impressions of them and the protective film? just66horns - be not afraid, come out anyway to share and soak up the love! I'll even be happy to do a minor tech session, hand out fuses, do a relay tutorial, 6V-12V circuit conversions, or whatever to keep things interesting and informative. Lord knows, we could all use brighter lights front and rear to make driving these older ladies competent and safe on the road. Anyone is invited to PM me directly or reply here with special requests once this is on the calendar. Andy