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About MoBrighta

  • Birthday September 19

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  1. Andy, You sent me your address once but I had some trouble with my computer, rebuillt it and have lost that information.


    Can you send me your address and contact info again, I have several tail lenses and side lens I want to send you for restoration.


    Thanks again, --- Mike Bergin

  2. I just bought what I thought was a rear light from an older NK - 1500 or something - the seller did not know what it came from, and did not know that a light consists of a lens and a bulb carrier - the back half. All I got was the lens, red/white/red. It appears from the lens that it is brake/turn on top, reverse center, and tail on the bottom. It appears to be intact - no lens cracks - though a bit dirty and pitted on the frame. I will clean it up and take some pics. I need help in identifying the model it will fit ... thanks in advance. In order to do anything useful, I need to have the back half for this light, or will sell it and buy another light COMPLETE with all the parts. I have asked for a refund, as I made it clear I wanted to buy a complete light with all the parts, but who knows how that will go - English may not be his first language.
  3. Yes, I am aware of these simple and inexpensive devices, but not at all familiar with their reliability... I prefer to build something that does the same thing but with KNOWN reliability. My standards, not theirs. If I had more experience with specific products, maybe I'd feel better about using one. I assume the Chinese are good at assembling these- likely a PWM or chopper circuit, some kind of a transformer and rectifier, and loads of transistors and such. I do not know anything about the quality of internal components, circuit design, soldering reliability, overload capability, or expected life. The last thing I want to do is test something for a week, then have if fail on day 11 while installed in someone's car. I wouldn't want my brake lights to fail because a $20 device failed, and I certainly don't want to hear that YOUR brake lights failed because I used a cheap Chinese gadget. If you are aware of a more reliable and solidly built and guaranteed product to suggest, I'm all ears. US Made has value as well. Thanks for your input, everyone - and keep your thinking caps on!
  4. I see complaints about cars with 6 volt systems having really dim lighting; I owned one in the early 1970s - a 1962 VW Typ 1 (bug). I had decent headlights in a pair of Marchal Amplilux, with 6V lamps, so I could see where I was going... but the back end was critically lacking. Recently I got a set of lights for restoration from a 1966 1600, also a 6 Volt car. The fellow wanted to use high output lamps, which are what I use in 12V upgrades, but they are not so easy to find in 6V versions. So I put on my thinking cap, and came up with an idea of how to use a 12V High Output lamp in a 6V car. At full voltage, it would make the rear lights far brighter than 6V lamps - even new lamps. I hear some folks use 6V equipment and lamps, etc. after 12V system conversion, but this can't be sustainable. I recently completed design of a prototype device (gadget) that will double the voltage in a circuit - brakes, for example. This allows use of a 12V high output lamp. The first prototype was built to plug into the car's harness without cutting or splicing anything. The end result is that merely by pushing the brake pedal, your brake lights are WAY brighter than stock. Totally automatic, transparent, and innocuous. The device connects to the car by plugging in connectors, nothing irreversible or even detectible if it's removed. What it does is add 6V to the brake light circuit when you hit the brakes, giving 12V to the lamps, and a really nice bright warning to the drivers behind you. n I installed the same high output nickel base Krypton gas filled lamps I use for my other upgrade. While searching the FAQ for anything '6 volt' I find lots of talk about dim lighting; maybe this is one way to solve that - a quick way to boost rear light output without converting the entire system to 12 Volts, which is somewhat common. I am at the same time trying to chase down a selection of high output 6V lamps, which will be simpler and may get the same result, but these are as rare as hen's teeth. My first prototype is in a testing phase, in a 1600, connected to the brake lights. As soon as I get a moment, I am going to design a second prototype to allow multiple circuits to be boosted from 6 to 12 volts. I already have ways to boost tail light output, so maybe use it for turns and reverse lights? Comments from the E28 5 series forum: "1500s, 1600s and 1800s all had 6 volt up until I think '68 or '69. http://www.bmw2002faq.com might have some interesting threads worth browsing on the topic." What are your thoughts? I imagine this is one way to make it safer to drive older Bimmers and lower the risk of rear end collisions.
  5. OK, I thought so. I would do the same if I had one... Love those wheels! (seen in the 'more pics' link) I will let you know what I get after it arrives ... still waiting, dammit!
  6. Wow, I guess a good idea gets around! Your reverse light was the middle section that might be a turn signal in US cars... did you move the turn signal to that part? The cheap plastic thing - you mean the small round amber thing right next to the bumper is a reflector? Did you remove it or leave it there, and just add and wire a new round glass light (amber) as a reverse light - bumper mounted? I'd like to meet you, see this car in person! Are you in France, or just lucky enough to own a French Market 1600? Thanks for sharing pics of a clean car! Andy
  7. Oh, that is fantastic! I hope they are different, I will learn more having a range of different parts to work with. It shouldn't be too tough to find out what I have once I publish a picture. Send me an email, I'll let you know when my light arrives, what it looks like, and what I think; we can compare notes. By the way - I recently designed a 'gadget' that converts a 6 volt circuit to 12 Volts so a modern High Output 12V bulb can be used in a 6V car. Prototype testing is going to start this week by Jake in his 1600 brake light circuit, so he'll have really bright brake lights (along with the tail light restoration I also did). Notice I say High OUTPUT, not high wattage. No problems -- no melting lenses, no blowing fuses, no overheating wires or switches! This gadget uses relays to power the lights directly from the fuse box, so the brake light switch carries very little current - only enough to trip the relay coil. The big amps go through a fuse directly to the lights. If it works out, I may offer it to more members to try in various other ways, some of which you will come up with yourself, no doubt. It must work safely and be effective in making the car more visible, i.e. brighter lights, to ward off rear end collisions. Lord Knows - there are few enough of these Neue Klasse cars on the road, no need to sacrifice even one to the Hum-V grinders! I am also testing some high output 6V lamps ... Thanks! Andy
  8. OK, I have been trying to gain some working knowledge on NK rear and forward lighting, so I bought an NK rear light on this forum. The immediate issue is this- I do not know (nor does seller) what model it is from. He 'found it' in his garage in a box of leftovers or something like that. I will post pictures of it with any markings when it arrives. I am sort of excited (to put it mildly) to see what kind of upgrades and restoration processes are possible. Been working this week on E30, E24, and early 1600 lights with a 6 Volt system (similar to 2002 roundy lights) to boost output and make a high output 12V lamp work in a 6V car. Want badly to see what magic I can do with the vertical NK lights. Thanks for being there for me, in advance! Andy
  9. I figured you would volunteer! Good luck with whatever needs attention with the family, that's more important than brake lights right now. We'll talk when you get things settled ... get back in touch and I'll help with some troubleshooting steps.
  10. OK, I swapped out the 12V relays with 6V relays, and no more complaining! Now, when I power on the device, the relays snap to attention with authority and discipline, just like a good soldier. No More Whining! After running the device through several charge/discharge cycles - brake lights on, then off is one cycle - they seem to be lasting longer than they first did. I was seeing some dimming after five minutes or so, now they last over ten minutes. Of course, as soon as you get off the brakes, the battery charges; when you push the brake pedal, it discharges. Ahhh, the magic of relays! I need a driver to test the system in, as long as you meet these conditions: 1- You are comfortable unplugging a wire from a terminal, then connecting wires as instructed under the dash (power, ground); 2- you are comfortable using a zip tie to secure the device; and 3- you are willing to drive the car under different scenarios, using the brakes, while an unbiased observer follows you to record what they see. After several days, I would think this should be repeated to see if it works the same after sitting unused.
  11. I have a 2002 wire harness intact - I pulled the harness from a car just before going to the crusher. So far, all connectors are still in place on the bottom of the fuse box. 12 fuses, of course. It came from a square tail, but I'm not sure what year. I do know it is NOT a tii. If you send me an email, I will send you pictures and descriptions of the way they plug in. I do recall that some of the plastic connectors overlapped... and yes, after 40 years, colors fade a bit. Maybe between the two of us we can figure this out? Andy
  12. I hear that! I had the honor of working in that same galaxy - on a rotary hinge for what they called a 'solar array.' The spec for pointing accuracy was 0.016 degrees... Knowing the cosine for angles of incidence near 90, I suspect it wasn't a solar panel we were pointing ... and that's all I'm saying. We ALSO tested in a vacuum chamber at some pretty extreme temps ... exo-atmospheric environment and all that good stuff. But I'm hoping that our readers aren't going all Arctic (or stratospheric) with their rides ... especially with a 6 volt system! :-)
  13. Hmmm, great idea! Now, where can I find an environment at -45C (-49F) ... I know, at the North Pole ? Seriously, in the freezer is likely the best I can do for the lower extreme, around -18C / 0F. I expect a cold soak of around 12 hours would stabilize things. High temperatures are easier to get in the oven - as long as the kitchen manager is at work. Component limits per the manufacturer are 5 to 122F (-15 to 50C) discharging, and 32 to 104F (0 to 40C) Charging, considerably less stringent than your suggestion. As you can probably guess, there is a battery in this gadget. OK, temperature extremes test is next up, as soon as I get the 6V relays in the system..
  14. Update #4- Life test results I wanted to see what kind of life I could get from the gadget under steady state operation, again with two brake lights on steady. This simulates sitting at a VERY LONG traffic light, sitting through several cycles before you get through it. The initial test was 6 minutes long; they stayed nice and bright for about 5 minutes before they started to dim slightly. I will design an operating profile now, simulating worst case scenario of a traffic jam, with something like a 50% duty cycle - one minute on, one minute off. and see what they look like after a bunch of cycles. This will simulate something like a freeway jam, creeping, and sitting, and creeping, and sitting... I'm open to suggestions - anybody have an idea for a cycle and / or situation that will test the brake lights severely?
  15. UPDATE #3- Just ordered a bunch of 6 volt relays for this prototype, the 12 volt relays were whining about not enough voltage... The prototype will be rated for 6V system voltage, required for reliability. With the parts fairly well defined, I think this gadget will go for around $60 per, with a pair of high output lamps. The basis is one pair of brake lights. Additional work (restoration, for example) will be extra.
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