PaulTWinterton

You only need to remove the steering wheel, the upper and lower pads and fascia under the column. The switch harness and bolts are easily accessible for removal.. IMHO, I think the flasher "pulse" rate is a function of the flasher unit. Mine is slower than the original but acceptable. It too is the LED equivalent flasher to work with front and rear LED arrays. Do a search in this forum for discussions about LEDs to find recommended flashers with a ground wire. I think mine is a NAPA EL13"a". Might be as easy as trying a different brand of flasher.

Yes.

I believe fuel-injection clamps are correct. From the tank to the cold start. (Also cloth-covered hoses from filter to cold start, because that's what they did. 😉)

The rubber is simply held on by the large tabs underneath. Your picture shows the correct overrider for the 73.

If it were me, I'd just tighten the bolts to their torque value, maybe with blue locktite for peace of mind. I doubt you'll get rust inside the bellhousing, so no need for anti-seize IMHO.

Nt

At first glance mine has separate spade connectors on the back of the stalk. I haven't looked at the junction to car's harness.

I'll post this picture again. If memory serves, it looks like it goes into #5 as per your diagram. I spliced it into my 73 cluster plug for the brake warning light. You are correct in assuming the wire is hot. It's hot when the ignition is on and the handbrake is active OR if the hydraulic fluid reservoir is low on fluid.

No. Knockoffs. Western wheels. A defunct US company from back in the day that copied everyone. Or at least they did their own version of many popular wheels. This particular style uses shank bolts.

I'll have to take a look at the wiring.

Cool!

Hey! I have those wheels. Don't see them very often.

Consider Pirelli CN36s from Longstone Tyres. Great period correct rubber. Free worldwide delivery. A few of us here love them.