PaulTWinterton

I've been through this so many times. Best to drain your cooling system completely. Get it over with. You cannot avoid spillage IMO. You can drain the rad, but the engine is still full of coolant and the hoses on the WUR are low so gravity will suck the coolant out, period. I've tried clamping the hoses on the WUR with some success, but also destroyed the original input hose because it's wire lined. The output coolant hose can be a bear to disconnect and it will gush. I bought a 4' diameter kiddie pool for 12 bucks that contains spillage. I love it. LIft the nose a few inches to slide it under the engine. Lifting the nose also helps to eliminate trapped air when refilling the coolant system.

Hello Tomphot, Can you give us details of the malfunctions and what they did to fix them. AFAIK, there is no fix for the wax motors. They either work, work poorly or they don't work at all. And they are not available, unless there is a secret stash somewhere. What was the repair cost if I may ask? Thanks, Paul

I just looked and, no, I don't have any pics with the faceplate removed. I don't have the nerve or any tools to remove the needle. Probably wreck something. Sorry.

I might but it will take me a bit to send. I'll be in touch.

Don't worry about it. It's really only a concern on dune buggies and other off-road vehicles AFAIK.

Probably. I think you are referring to the "clocking" we are discussing. No. When I did mine I read as much as I could on rebuilding and re-installing the half-shafts. It took me awhile to understand that at full angle the opposing CVs can lock up if they are not "clocked" properly. Again I say it's probably not an issue for us as we don't "jump" our cars where the wheels droop to 25°. Here is a diagram I found on the internet. Thanks to the poster. It has been a number of years since I did this, but I believe @Guest_anonymous is making the statement of having the opposing CV rotated (90° or 180°?) so it is still functioning properly with CV at the other end of the halfshaft. When I did this, I used a 1/4" x 30" aluminum rod to line up the CVs onto the halfshaft in the correct orientation.

FWIW I think VW dune buggy guys would disagree. At extreme extension of the wheel hubs (downward) the halfshafts can lock up if the cvs are not clocked. Granted we are not putting our suspension under that extreme but it could happen. Tell me I've been misled. I can take it. 😊

Good for you. Most people miss this step.

Decadent I say, decadent. (Wish that was my garage)

When I searched for a car in 90, Polaris was my first desire. Ceylon was my second. Neither were available in my area. I reluctantly settled for a mostly rust free Inka. It grew on me. Not long ago I spoke to a VW exec. He said 53% of all Volkswagens are silver. I wouldn't be surprised if BMW has similar numbers.

I know, I know! I decided to design a tool to spin-on the knobs. First off, I positioned the clock and stuffed a towel in front on the parcel shelf to keep it being pushed out of the hole in the dash from behind. Then I used this tool: Makes it a one finger job. Really easy. What I don't remember is if the consul was in or out. I think out. BTW, horizontal bracket - up to 74. vertical bracket 74 - 76.

Realoem.com. Navigate to classic section and individual parts diagrams for your car. They list all parts etc with specs. You will be able to identify the size of the nuts and bolts you need.

Pass on purchase. Go straight to beer (can). I might have a picture of a shim. Anyone else? The only important design feature is the pass-through hole for the oil passage IIRC.

One symptom of a (too) loose oil pump chain is a loud chain rattle. It's loud because it is hitting the oil return pipe on the front of the oil pump. If you can push the chain over and touch the pipe it is definitely too loose. The deflection is supposed to be +/- 5mm. Just noticed the above statement should read "pump shimmed".