PaulTWinterton

☺️ No, but I'm sure Stan has one. If the deflector is original, which is possible, the spring may need to be replaced. If it's a replica it's probably just a fitment issue. They are finicky to assemble properly.

Agreed. Ceylon sunroof car! Gold! Being the hobbyist that I am, I like things I can tinker with. I didn't see the Golde wind deflector at first 'cuz the torsion spring is probably in-operative. I'd be all over that. Put in some OEM-style hood insulation and...oh no! nothing left to do, but drive it. My guess...it's going to a serious collector, for serious dough.

Funny, I know her and her husband well. I've only bought parts from Jessel a couple of times though, because another friend and longtime FAQer was the parts guy at AutoWest.

Great car. LOVE Ceylon! Are you leaving us once it's sold?

I was starting to think that the CA wildfires and subsequent power outages were to blame.

Gorgeous! Great story. True artists.

Interestingly, the halves are permanently marked with tiny dimples for re-alignment. Or...the halves can be "clocked" for different orientations in the engine bay. I found this out the hard way by incorrectly clocking an alternator for the tii, which is not the same orientation as the carb car.

First off, I've had issues with disassembly of alternators as well. It's as if they don't want you to open it. Slot-head bolts? WTF! Easiest head to strip. I visited an auto-electric shop and took note of how they do it. AIR TOOLS! Impact drivers with the correct head to fit the slot perfectly and a socket for the pulley bolt. No problemo. A large screwdriver to wedge the pulley so it doesn't turn while using the air tool. I've had better luck since using the correct tools. Concerning your "singing" alternator. I'm asking the FAQ: is their a lubricant that you can spray on electrical components that won't effect the circuits, but will lubricate where needed?

FYI: The likes images are broken. Thanks Steve.

I bought a super-long pair of pliers for testing the WUR air function while in the car. They reach down to clamp the air hose from the WUR to the plenum (air log). When the car is warm and idling pinch the hose. If the engine rpm changes, you have air leaking into the system. A visual inspection of the tophat and KFish enrichment lever will confirm that there is separation between them and the lever is not is use. That is assuming that the tophat is adjusted correctly to achieve 2.6mm (approx) adjustment to the enrichment as per the manual.

Technically yes, but some would say that a tiny bit of air can be regulated within the tuna can adjustment. To me, ANY uncontrolled air entering the system is problematic as it can fluctuate causing imprecise tuning of the Air/Fuel mixture. I've done tests on quite a few WURs and found that really good ones can fully stop the air flow around the 8mm mark. Some don't stop the air flow even at the 10mm mark. It is more a function of the tolerance between the piston and the walls of the bore, that determine if it will seal, IMO. If the WUR has been subject to grit and heavy use over it's 40+ years, the piston and bore become worn to the point of a poor seal. Since I did this drawing I've tested some WURs that seal around 8mm of elevation. You might be lucky and only require a good cleaning. How to test: Once you have loosened the hex screw you can rotate the piston (counter-clockwise) upward to add mm to the final position, BUT that means that the piston will not retract as far as before, when cold. It's a trade-off and might not produce any better results. The WUR serves two functions, 1) adds and stops aux air at start up, and 2) controls the fuel enrichment lever on the KFish. Once the tophat separates from the lever the fuel enrichment ceases. I've found that the tophat separation happens around 8mm of elevation as well.

How did you know what I spent? I bought new seat pads and couldn't afford tires for a year.

Personally, no. Just too skinny. The 185s are perfect and complement the sporty look of the 02. I keep a set of cheap 165s on stock tii rims and caps in the archives just because I can. Thanks for the offer though. ☺️

I've done that and the fan was dangerously close to the rad. 1mm of lift at the tranny mount equates to an angle change at the fan. I wish it had worked for me. It would have saved a lot of head scratching. To anyone altering the tranny mount. DOUBLE CHECK THE DISTANCE FROM FAN TO RAD. I found that after changing motor mounts that the engine does settle slightly. Enough on my car to remove the distortion in the guibo. Go figure.